The PVC looks like .75" regular, but I could be wrong.
Also, if a member has posted and their status reads as "validating," then their account has been deleted by a moderator. Suspensions, even the 9999 specials, still allow their targets to keep "member" status. Perhaps we should change that so there is less confusion...
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA's Content
There have been 1000 items by SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA (Search limited from 08-December 96)
#128164 At2k Turret Integrated Bbb
Posted by
on 31 October 2007 - 08:41 PM
in
Modifications
#128277 What Did I Do Wrong To My Nf
Posted by
on 01 November 2007 - 08:49 PM
in
Modifications
Did you leave in the plunger stop (cylindrical piece with small disk in the middle)? If not, drill a hole in the disk and replace that part. Other than that, the CPVC may be too tight on your darts, even for a springer. A new barrel or a spring replacement is required for better results.
#128049 At2k Turret Integrated Bbb
Posted by
on 30 October 2007 - 06:44 PM
in
Modifications
What exactly is this post supposed to do? This has been thought of (turreting), and you can do the write-up for the BBB. Post that instead.
#127584 New Nerfer. Hey Everyone
Posted by
on 26 October 2007 - 07:20 PM
in
Off Topic
Sounds like you have a bit of experience with mods. I would recommend a nested brass Crossbow with springs and/or bungees for your next mod. Reinforce it and you have a Level 4 Mod. Who knows, you may come up with an entirely new mod or integration for it. As for the Manta, try integrating some Spiderman Dart Tag guns or NFs into it. Good luck and welcome to the Haven.
#126706 Star Wars Dart Gun Mod
Posted by
on 19 October 2007 - 11:16 PM
in
Modifications
Usually you would post this in the Modifications picture thread unless there is some form of a write-up available in your post. Other then that, seems to be decent. How much power seems to be behind the dart? (For example, does the dart travel with high velocity or noticable accuracy?)
#129733 Screwed Up Hornet Valve
Posted by
on 14 November 2007 - 08:21 PM
in
General Nerf
Something within the gun is jammed or stuck. This happens to me all the time, so I just rack the slide back and forth a couple times (HARD), and then pull the trigger to cycle through the barrels. Try that first, and then take it apart to see if something got caught up on the trigger system or valve.
#128566 It's Ruined!
Posted by
on 04 November 2007 - 06:19 PM
in
Modifications
Think about it this way. Is it worth the time and resources to repair the damage, or is it wrecked beyond reason? If the answer is the latter, then take it and keep it for parts. There are several springs inside that are good for catches, and the main springs are great for NFs. Other than that, you should post pics so we have an idea of the "damage."
#158484 Longshot Problem
Posted by
on 09 June 2008 - 03:18 AM
in
Modifications
The magazine lock was what held the mag in its well. You NEED that piece. Try to make a duplicate by bonding PVC, Lexan, etc. together. However, your actual problem is most likely what keef posted.
Otherwise, check the plunger head like Retiate said. Also, check that the plate on the back of the plunger tube isn't warped, and that it rests correctly in place. Make sure the bolt and the bolt sled are not twisted, bent, or warped in any way.
Otherwise, check the plunger head like Retiate said. Also, check that the plate on the back of the plunger tube isn't warped, and that it rests correctly in place. Make sure the bolt and the bolt sled are not twisted, bent, or warped in any way.
#159421 "nitefinder Rifle"
Posted by
on 16 June 2008 - 07:43 PM
in
Modifications
You could always replace the plunger rods with a threaded rod or a steel/aluminum solid-core pipe if you're not sure. However, marine strength epoxy, JB Weld, Plumber's Goop, plastic cements (or plastic welds), and Fishin' Glue are all very likely to hold. If you want to reinforce the hold, try bonding some strips of aluminum flashing onto the sides of the plunger rods where they are joined (I.e. take a small strip of flashing and glue it down so that it is glued to one plunger rod, extends across the joint where the two rods meet, and then is bonded to the other rod on the opposite side as well). That gives you a lot more adhered surface and strength. The plunger tube itself is of the same plastic, but I can't help with the PETG ones.
#159434 What Gun Has Potential.
Posted by
on 16 June 2008 - 08:43 PM
in
General Nerf
Mod potential is mostly restricted by the imagination of the modder. Of course, there are also the more versatile guns that will naturally be more useful for mods. Nitefinders are well-documented there, as are Longshots. SSPBs and SMDTGs are good for integrations because of their small size and respectable power.
#131210 Nf And Ttg Spring
Posted by
on 02 December 2007 - 02:07 AM
in
Modifications
The spring is, as sam stated, longer and thinner. It actually packs a lot of force in an NF. However, I'm not sure if the Handyman 9713 used in the NF mods will fit into the TTG plunger tube. I believe it's OD is too large. (The 9713 is also the only Handyman spring that is powerful enough, but shaped correctly to be used in a springer).
On the bungies, there should be no problem unless you did replace the spring. Just make sure the hooks don't start ripping up the shell if you handle it roughly. (If you have plastic/rubber hooks as opposed to the steel ones I see in stores most of the time, then that's not going to be a problem.)
On the bungies, there should be no problem unless you did replace the spring. Just make sure the hooks don't start ripping up the shell if you handle it roughly. (If you have plastic/rubber hooks as opposed to the steel ones I see in stores most of the time, then that's not going to be a problem.)
#158632 Longshot Problem
Posted by
on 10 June 2008 - 12:15 AM
in
Modifications
Try shaving a little bit off of the feed lips for each magazine (on the back of the feed lips, where the tails of the darts go.). If that doesn't work, then the extra spring is too long. If you place the LS and shotgun springs next to each other, and find that the shotgun's is longer, trim off a ring or two and then reassemble the gun. It should be fine.I found that the bolt isn't pulling far enough to let the magazine in. But I'm not sure why.
#126749 Nerf War Blocking
Posted by
on 20 October 2007 - 03:45 PM
in
General Nerf
The one thing I did not mention was my question. Do most people not allow shields (except Mantas) based on tradition or because shields make for longer and more boring rounds (I.e. people can now just block instead of doing cool dodges, people will block the entire match and nobody will get kills or be out)? I am leaning towards the latter, but I was just wondering.
#126736 Nerf War Blocking
Posted by
on 20 October 2007 - 12:25 PM
in
General Nerf
Actually, the reverse side of the shield is a rubber surface that deflects taggers. For small wars, these may be okay as long as the majority of people agree. I wouldn't bring it to larger and more organized wars, though. They tend to only allow Mantas.
#128812 Nerf Darts And Nitefinder
Posted by
on 06 November 2007 - 05:24 PM
in
General Nerf
Just make straw-reinforced snіper darts. Also, like UM said, don't call darts bullets. They are not nearly the same thing.
#127330 The El Snapo V.2
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 03:30 PM
in
Homemades
Unless you plan to use stefans soon, the barrel is far too long. Other then that, looking good.
#127464 The El Snapo V.2
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 10:23 PM
in
Homemades
Oh. I saw the stock darts in the pictures; just wanted to make sure. I believe my only question for now is "what material is the priming handle made from"?
#129110 Buzzbee Ball Zoo-ka Mods?
Posted by
on 08 November 2007 - 02:58 PM
in
Modifications
What internals?I don't even know what the internals look like.
Take a pool noodle, trim it down until it fits in the muzzle, and stick a section of CPVC in the middle (Don't go more then three inches into the gun, have the rest come out the front). Viola. Manually-operated ram gun.
#126156 Rubber Band Question
Posted by
on 14 October 2007 - 01:50 PM
in
General Nerf
Anything goes. However, mini bungie coords work well. Be careful not to stress the shell and plunger rod when using them, though.
#128547 Crossfire Problems
Posted by
on 04 November 2007 - 01:24 PM
in
Modifications
Adding craft foam to the bottom of the inverse plunger tube itself will reduce that noise (unless you already did, in which case how many layers did you use?). Since there is nothing extra to slow down the escape of air from the plunger chamber, the plunger tube will hit the back of the barrel at full speed and produce a louder sound than normal.
#120859 Decent Pumps?
Posted by
on 22 August 2007 - 09:40 PM
in
Homemades
Krylon Fusion works well, but vinyl dyes are strongly recommended by users like CS. They are absorbed by the plastic so it is almost impossible for it to be removed by extended use.
#98262 Nitefinder Knocking Itself Silly
Posted by
on 14 January 2007 - 12:30 PM
in
Modifications
Which "Front orange barrel support piece" -- the "barrel" that came with it, or the ring that went around the front of that barrel?
The wedge-shaped orange piece that extends slightly out in front of the rest of the gun.
#98499 Just Thought This Might Be Interesting
Posted by
on 19 January 2007 - 05:16 PM
in
Site Feedback
This explains the boom in activity and new users since I joined back in October...
#98891 Solenoid Proplems
Posted by
on 28 January 2007 - 12:46 PM
in
Homemades
You should learn before an admin busts you, because it's part of the Code of Conduct.I'm gonna play on the I'm 14 so i'm stupid thing, hence why i can't structure a sentence properly
Anyway, make sure that you have enough battery power to operate the valve properly, and that the batteries actually have some charge left.
#96832 Well... I'm Back!
Posted by
on 19 December 2006 - 09:05 PM
in
General Nerf
And in a completely unrelated note, I JUST found the piece of Brass that I had lost! I'm going to try to make my first Brass-barreled gun very soon now...
~TCIND
Which gun might that be?
Also, excellent work on the LS, although the gun looks kind of strange without the carry rail. Look at the LS closely and honestly tell me it doesn't look like this. (Minus the chainsaw bayonet from hell...)
#95834 Dremel
Posted by
on 03 December 2006 - 05:33 PM
in
Modifications
My favorite Dremel is a Dremel Stylus, because the pistol grip gives better precision than a normal Dremel. At Ace Hardware you can get one and a large pack of Dremel accesories for a decent price if I remember right.
Guilo
I've seen one of those before, but I didn't think it was so great. I prefer the kind that you can hold like a pencil, but that's just the way I use mine.
#94175 Homemade Air Gun
Posted by
on 11 November 2006 - 07:13 PM
in
Homemades
The primer strips off the glazing on the PVC so the cement creates a better bond. Either the primer or the cement, I think it's the primer, is purple. I heard that the purple stuff works better.
#94980 Magnum Pistol
Posted by
on 22 November 2006 - 12:19 AM
in
General Nerf
The post said thet Fantasy Ltd. made the gun, and it was back in '95. There was a pistol and a rifle, both of which shot water balls. Still searching for possible matches on name and retailers.
P.S.: Did you know that Shindig is (according to my sources) a member of Super Soaker Central under the name Topaz Bullet? Apparently the guys down at that site caught wind of this water gun and are investigating as well. I'll keep any search results posted here.
P.S.: Did you know that Shindig is (according to my sources) a member of Super Soaker Central under the name Topaz Bullet? Apparently the guys down at that site caught wind of this water gun and are investigating as well. I'll keep any search results posted here.
#95829 Dremel
Posted by
on 03 December 2006 - 04:56 PM
in
Modifications
Home Depot and Lowes sell some relatively cheap dremels, but the prices may be different where you are. A kit with the 5-speed dremel and about 20 bits costs anywhere from $15-$30 at Lowes, I think. I'll have to check to be sure.
#100018 Air Tech 3000 In A Ls
Posted by
on 18 February 2007 - 09:02 PM
in
Modifications
It's a shame to have scrapped the magazine system (as far as I can tell, since the white tank blocks the magazine well). Anyways, nice modification.
#109057 At2k Problem
Posted by
on 03 June 2007 - 12:39 AM
in
Modifications
I used to have a similar problem with one of my Big Blasts. The portion of the gun with the firing pin and trigger assembly (fire control group) is prone to shifting positions in some guns. My 4B (Buzz Bee Big Blast) would suffer from the FCG being skewed. The tank would move forward, and the trigger wouldn't. This would mean that the stationary trigger pulled the firing pin and held it back, releasing any stored or pumped air. Simply glue the FCG or tank into position in the beginning if this happens again.
#120118 Pump Repair Help
Posted by
on 17 August 2007 - 09:54 AM
in
Modifications
Well, there's really not much else you can do. I assume you wanted to keep the Hornet separate and not do and integration, based on what you plan to do. If using the other pump doesn't work, you can go to Wal*Mart or Dick's Sporting Goods and find a small handheld bicycle pump to splice in instead. That's pretty much your only other option, as I mentioned before, for keeping the Hornet by itself. Just make sure to seal all of the internal tubing at the joints with Plumber's Goop for a secure connection, and let that fully cure before you do any testing.
P.S.: If you want a good, very simple to mod air gun, go to K-Mart and find a BuzzBee Big Blast for $10. They are superior to the LBB in comfort (the grips and pump) and durability (metal firing pin instead of plasic). They also get insane ranges with a simple pump plug and a CPVC barrel.
P.S.: If you want a good, very simple to mod air gun, go to K-Mart and find a BuzzBee Big Blast for $10. They are superior to the LBB in comfort (the grips and pump) and durability (metal firing pin instead of plasic). They also get insane ranges with a simple pump plug and a CPVC barrel.
#120121 Pump Repair Help
Posted by
on 17 August 2007 - 10:14 AM
in
Modifications
Yes, but the Titan has the tubing already there for connecting the air tanks, which makes it simpler that performing surgery and splicing tubed into the air tank of another gun. Granted, the Volley Titan may be a little large, but a minimization can fix most of that problem.You could also use this as the base for something similar to the voly titan if you didn't want to screw with your titian.
#120715 Decent Pumps?
Posted by
on 21 August 2007 - 11:11 PM
in
Homemades
Try Dick's Sporting Goods, Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, basically any sporting goods store. You want either a small bike pump for a rifle-sized gun, or a handheld mini-pump for a compact weapon. If possible, get a dual-action pump so it fills the tank on both the down and upstrokes.
#120109 Pump Repair Help
Posted by
on 17 August 2007 - 01:37 AM
in
Modifications
Pictures? Even without them it's obvious you need to replace the entire pump assembly, but is there any damage beyond that?
Loctite will not act like acid on a pump, and even if it did it would simply eat away the plastic, not crack it. I suggest plastic cement as a replacement, though. It is a clear liquid that bonds any plastic (the only problems are a strange smell and the fact that it doesn't bond anything but plastic).
However, it is too late now. If you want to integrate it into a gun like the Titan, which it was designed to be mounted under, then cut off the tubing to the pump, seal it with Plumber's Goop, and then just feed it the pressure from the Titan. You could also try a variation of CS's Volley Titan. Otherwise, hook up the tubing from a small (as in hald-held small) bike pump and stick that in the spot where the original pump went. I recommend a dual-action version so it fills with each upstroke and downstroke.
Loctite will not act like acid on a pump, and even if it did it would simply eat away the plastic, not crack it. I suggest plastic cement as a replacement, though. It is a clear liquid that bonds any plastic (the only problems are a strange smell and the fact that it doesn't bond anything but plastic).
However, it is too late now. If you want to integrate it into a gun like the Titan, which it was designed to be mounted under, then cut off the tubing to the pump, seal it with Plumber's Goop, and then just feed it the pressure from the Titan. You could also try a variation of CS's Volley Titan. Otherwise, hook up the tubing from a small (as in hald-held small) bike pump and stick that in the spot where the original pump went. I recommend a dual-action version so it fills with each upstroke and downstroke.
#114856 From The NH Mail Bag
Posted by
on 07 July 2007 - 01:05 AM
in
News
You should have at least screwed with him a little bit...
Well, at least this site is taken care of.
Well, at least this site is taken care of.
#113942 Lbb Casing
Posted by
on 30 June 2007 - 10:07 PM
in
General Nerf
Are you making a handle and new trigger, or will you use a bolt (one that is connected to the firing pin and sticks out of the side of the shell to be pulled back for firing). Also, please correct your spelling and grammar, and enjoy your membership at the Haven.
#113955 Lbb Casing
Posted by
on 30 June 2007 - 11:52 PM
in
General Nerf
You should at least reinforce it, since I've had both LBB and Big Blast triggers break during extended use.Im incorperating the old trigger into a basic handle, the pump will be lengthened to the back of the tube
#114082 Lbb Casing
Posted by
on 01 July 2007 - 11:12 PM
in
General Nerf
If the pictures are already saved on your computer as backup, open an account at Photobucket (it's free and easy), and choose the "Upload pictures" button (it may say something different but similar to this). Use the "Browse" option and select the picture(s) you want, then click upload. When this is finished, copy the given URL tag under the picture, and while posting here, click the icon that looks like a tree. This will open a scripted window where you paste the URL (delete the original contents of the window first). Then hit OK, finish typing your post, and post the write-up. I usually just copy and paste the pictures, though. Much less work.I'm finished, but i dont know how to put pictures in, some one help me out.
-spicy
#92863 Homemade Shotgun Question
Posted by
on 24 October 2006 - 05:13 PM
in
Homemades
If you have single slug-type rounds to fire out of your "shotgun," and not pellet-like clusters, then use the shells. The only other reason I could possibly think to use shells is if you keep getting bent darts when you try to load.
Keep in mind that if you use shells, you will have to get a bolt system and extractor, instead of just a plunger. If you want to keep this design simple, then just don't use shells.
P.S.: If you ignore this and make shells anyway, then make sure they are small and light, like brass. Do not use anything bulky, like PVC or anything that is too hard and time-consuming to replace if you get them lost.
Keep in mind that if you use shells, you will have to get a bolt system and extractor, instead of just a plunger. If you want to keep this design simple, then just don't use shells.
P.S.: If you ignore this and make shells anyway, then make sure they are small and light, like brass. Do not use anything bulky, like PVC or anything that is too hard and time-consuming to replace if you get them lost.
