After watching your video demonstrating functionality, I don't think there's an easy/practical way to get the look you want while retaining that exact functionality.

Because the force of priming is taken up entirely by that ring (purple from solvent weld), you're going to encounter crazy amounts of torque on any sort of adhesive bond, most of which were designed only for lateral stress. You also have almost 0 surface area to bond to.

Mechanically fastening is also going to be a pain because there is barely any material concentrically.

My best ideas are:

1) That purple ring/sliding piece that you use to pull back the plunger rod and then prime the blaster should not have a hole for the CPVC to attach to, because wall thickness is too low for any sort of structural strength. Instead, take a piece of 5/8" solid rod, drill an appropriately sized hole through it (have fun centering that), dremel it down (this part will be awful) to fit the curvature of your PVC ring, and then use a screw from the inside of the ring into the rod. A 1/4-20 screw is probably strong enough to withstand the priming forces.

2) Use a PVC tee and slide it through there so that way the plunger rod can fit through and you have a single molded piece to attach your cocking bolt to. This may require you completely redesign your blaster so the pieces fit

Thanks Zorn, I think I will give option 1 a try next. I will keep this thread posted with results.

Drill a 1/2" hole through the cpvc rod and stick nylon/delrin./alum/ whatever into it, then sheth it wih a 1/2ID/5/8OD tube to coupler onto the cpvc handle. That may hold it. You can also fill in that space with putty. Lube up the cpvc and putty around it. The lube will keep the putty from sticking and you'll hve something solid to support the handle.

I am not sure I understand your first suggestion, but I would rather not drill any holes into the PR. I would have to do a slotted rod, and that is a pain as you know. The putty idea sounds good, I just don't have a lot of room to work with between the PR and the "cocking slide" to add a substantial depth of putty. I will give it a shot though if no other ideas surface. Thanks Hero.

You would be just as well off simply front loading the barrel. The point of having a breech of this style is to position the dart as close to the power source of the blaster at the base of the barrel without having to use a ramrod. Your design does not do this.

I have no opinion of your bracelets, but the reason he suggested "It's Nerf or Nothin'" is because it is actually an iconic Nerf brand slogan that dates back to the 90's.

At first glace I would have to agree with the above post and say that your barrel is too short for the amount of air you are pushing in that plunger tube. To add on to that though, IF you happen to be using stock darts front loaded into the barrel you can pretty much expect nothing better than ~50 feet anyway.

The only reason I don't hate this thread is because there aren't tons of terrible "target" type threads already in existence.

That being said, this "tutorial" needs some pictures to be worth keeping, in my opinion.

Also, on a more relevant note: I have found that shooting high powered blasters into a box through something thin such as tin foil doesn't contain the darts very well. They carry so much power that they end up bouncing off (or penetrating) the back wall of the box and out the front of the box again. If a box type target interests you, and you are shooting high powered blasters into it, I recommend hanging a sheet of cloth from the ceiling of the box to hang freely behind the paper/tin foil target. This sheet will slow the darts considerably so that a) you darts don't bounce back out of the box and your darts don't deform as much from impact when doing some simple target shooting.

With a 4 inch barrel, you can just ramrod the stefans down with a finger. Rearloading a 2k turret is harder than it sounds.

I would be in for a war in February even if Dizzy is doing one in March. The more wars the better. I am open pretty much any Saturday as long as I have some notice in advance.

Let me first say that my Lowes does have the check valves, but they do NOT twist apart in the middle as 3DBBQs do. That being said, I still managed to make a mad ghost with the Americanized parts. It just takes a little more tinkering with the trigger.

To answer your question directly, yes it will work. People have made these sort of "stubby" barreled doubleshots before. I have infact seen one in action. It kills the aesthetics of the gun though, I think, but does make the gun more useable.

a nerf war every friday at ridgewood baptist church come if you want and best if you are in the Salem va district. it is from 6:30 pm to 10 pm.
rules and others : no bad words,darts can not be death darts,most mods that are band in regular wars are band hear as well, we don't have trading time but you can trade when ever,and there is a rule that you cant use others guns unless they say you can.
Games: hvz,team death match,capture the flag,and protect the president.
there is some other stuff but i will tell you if you come you dont have to say you are coming or any thing but you can and feel free to ask questions.

I will start by saying that as a fellow nerfer in the area, I am actually curious and excited to hear about the wars you are having. That being said, your stay here at Nerfhaven will be much more comfortable (and probably longer) if you read the code of conduct and increase your post quality.

How many people do you usually have at these wars?
Do you play indoors, outdoors, or both?
Do you have any pictures of the nerfing area?
What darts do you usually play with/ do you have any dart restrictions?

That does help! This sounds like a stereotypical check valve issue. Either you have blown out your check valve, or there is debris inside it that is preventing it from blocking the air as it should. I am not familiar enough with the LBB to know where the stock check valve is (probably in the stock pump head), but anyway, the solution is to add a check valve into your tubing line from the pump to the tank. I am fairly certain that this will fix your issue.

EDIT: Another question I should ask you: If you pump the gun up, and physically hold the pump in the gun and "hold" the air in the gun and pull the trigger, does it fire at all?

Some valves just go bad, or as stated earlier there could be something caught in the valve that is keeping it open for 2 way airflow. I have had this happen to multiple air blasters of mine, and it is a fairly simple fix: I use small check valves used in fish aquariums to replace stock Nerf valves. They are cheap, and have worked fine for me in the past. All you have to do is make a cut in your air line from your pump to your tank, and put the check valve in (making sure the airflow arrow printed on the valve is pointed the correct direction). Make sure the newly made connections to/from the valve are sealed with the glue of your choice, and you are done.

EDIT: These valves can be bought at Petco/PetsMart or Walmart or probably anywhere that sells aquarium supplies for under $2.

To me, it sounds like the tank itself is sealing fine. However, it also sounds like the air from the pump never even reaches the tank. Make sure all of your connections are air tight, and that there are no holes in your tubing.

Make sure you follow all of the curing/applying directions on the goop such as surface prep and curing time. Don't put any pressure through the system before the full curing time is over. For leaks like this, I usually goop the connection. After letting it cure, and testing, I just simply add more goop to the leaking area. It may not be the MOST efficient method, but goop has never failed me.

If I had to guess, I would say that a leaky tank is not your problem. If the tank had a leak in it the number of pumps needed to fill the tank wouldn't change much at all.

Did you change anything else when you repaired the blaster? Did you add a substantial amount of extra tubing between the pump and the tank? Is the pump stroke just as long as before?

The paintjob is nice. It would look even better in the mods/paintjobs thread.

If this actually becomes a Nerf war and less of a Daycare-ish nerfy backyard hangout then I maybe be interested.

VA war?! Hell yes. I can't commit to being at this one for sure, but just seeing a war in VA (not just solely in the DC area) excites me. More power to you, and let us Virginians know how it goes!

As usual with this kind of thread, pictures would explain things much better than any amount of words could.

Some things you need to explain further so that we can help you:

What mods have you done to the blaster
Does blaster rattle when you shake it
Does the crashing noise sound like something is broken or shattered, or just a loud bang?

Frankly, we need pictures. 3Bs are loud to begin with, so we need more information.