*bump* new question *bump*

If you're going to change question, you may want to edit the title, so people know that this thread is different; they'll know what the question concerns, so they may answer if if they have the knowledge.

The spring from a click pen or from a mechanical pencil can be used to supplement the current catch spring in a long shot (as well as other guns). These should be readily available, and overall, rather cheap.

Alright I get no one likes my paint job, its been brought to my attention ever since I showed it off here a month ago. That aside I will note to always paint my guns bright pink, and then ask for feedback...so possibly bring other cons (or pros hopefully) to my attention as well? Thank you.

Dont listen to people. If you like the black thats all that matters. Nerf isnt about looking gay with your bright pink blasters and it pisses me off when people say it is.

If you feel 'gay' because the plastic foam blasting children's toy you are carry is brightly colored, you have no confidence in your sexual orientation. Not painting things black is a simple matter of safety. Orange cap or not (none is pictured in this thread, however we can see the large attention to realistic detail), you are still have a pretty realistic gun.

As for feedback, you could stop waving your dick, you aren't really impressing anyone here. You made a SNAP, except now it's harder to assemble/disassemble and replace any internals. It's a nice start, but keep it more practical next time.

Wow, very clever.

I like the idea, and since it's on a coupler, you can just take it off and switch it to any RSCB or even a hopper clip. I'm totally going to have my brother make a few of these. Great write up and an excellent idea.

Edit: Any issues with it sealing? It looks to be open toward the inside slightly, not sure if it's just the angle though. It shouldn't be much of an issue, just curious if could get 'worn out' or anything

I'm hopping in kinda late, so I don't have words about the topic or content, but I'll look at the grammar, teachers love to strip off points.

I suck quite hard at writing, so I turned Tantum's suggestion into a paragraph instead of the whole essay:

There is also an issue of being realistic. Back in the 80's(no ', it is not possessive), there was no law about orange tips and toy guns were made to be exact replicas of real guns, the perfect example being the Larami Tec9, which even shot rubber pellets the exact size of a 9mm round. This led to some police shootings of kids carrying toy guns, and more youth violence because of the small difference between a toy and the real thing. Kenner stepped in in the early 90's (again, just 90s) with toy guns designed to be... Animals. Nerf gave them their name to use,( ; ) since up until then Nerf had only been making foam toys that were safe to throw around inside. The toys were a huge hit, and more designs came out with a series that was SciFi themed, and then a series with clear halves so you could see how the toys worked. Airsoft started from this issue of banning realistic guns too, only they went the opposite direction. Following the new laws, tips of guns were painted orange, and the realistic amunition was changed to plastic balls. In recent years, however, Nerf has tried to make more realistic blasters, but still keeping them parent friendly. Bright orange clips started being used in blasters, and in 2008 the drum clip came out. Using bolts similar to real guns, most nerf guns have the feel and performance of real guns, but the color and looks of toys.

Edited some grammar. Nazi like, yes, but it's for a grade.
This paragraph wasn't too bad, I can look at other parts if you want.

And here is my lamesauce conclusion:
Both airsoft and Nerf can be fun, but it all depends on what you want. If shooting plastic toys at each other, and doing work in your garage is your idea of fun, you'll like Nerf. If giving your buddies welts is what you like, then Airsoft is for you.

Too sarcastic, really. Doesn't feel comparison and contrast-y enough. It has a (drastically) different tone than the rest of your paper.

Edit to fix a ; turning into a smile.

Just pump it up and see if those tanks leak. It doesn't seem to be cut too deep. If it is, though, hot glue would not be a good choice, go with goop instead.

You can drill out the holes with a 21/64" bit, no problems, so I think you should be safe. Drilling it out is easy too, the plastic just pops out.

What are the general rules for springers versus air powered guns? I've lurked for a while and I've always wondered how people come up with their barrel lengths. I have a NF and Pistol Splat with CPVC couplers, and the Big Lots knockoff Big Blast that has some CPVC glued in the barrel. If you had to guess for the length of a proper barrel for those what would it be?

I'm not trying to be a newb and have people do my modding for me, I just can't afford to screw it up. Measure twice cut once as they say.

Around me, CPVC is 3.44+tax for 10'... hardly expensive, even for a college student, less than $.40/foot.

I got a 10' section and cut a 4", 5", 6", 7", 8", 9", 10", 11", 12", and 13" barrel, then I test my blasters to find the best length. It cost less than $4 to get all the barrels, worth the investment.

However, if you really can't test, I would guess 4-5" for the NF, 5-6" for the pistol splat. Not sure on the big blast thing.

Ok, I know this is a necro and I am sorry but this is a stickied topic. I just finished my first plus bow! I was getting around 150 feet. The next day i shoot it and it goes 60-80 feet. Does anyone know what is wrong with it? Here is a video The camera cut off but I measured around 80 feet. Please help!

Your plunger head doesn't move all the way to the end of the plunger tube in the video. That's the problem.

It's happened to me on a few of my +bows, you put too much lubricant in the plunger tube (which is pretty easy to do), and the reinforced washer soaked it up and expanded. Whether it's the exposed fibers on the edges that draw the lubricant in, or whether the washer material itself, I'm not sure. Anyway, just replace it with a different washer if you have one (you said you just finished it, indicating you'll have 9 spares if you bought them from McMaster), and use less lube. If you let the current one set out, I think it will shrink down to size.

So I recently went out and picked up some 1/2" CPVC from Home Depot. This stuff is surprisingly flexible though. And due to its inherent flexibility, the 10 foot rods seem to have some degree of permanent curvature to them. I'm worried about using this stuff for barrel material. Barrels need to be straight.

Does the CPVC that everyone's using flex under its own weight like this, or did I just get some weird crap? It's sort of a darkish beige color, and it was the only 1/2" CPVC they had there.

Yes, that's likely CPVC, it's usually a darker beige like you described, not white like PVC. It does have some degree of bend to it. Whenever I go to the store to get CPVC, I take a piece and try to roll it on the ground. If it's too bent, it won't roll easily, so put it back and try again. I can usually find a pretty decent piece. When you take it home, just let it sit on the ground for a little to try to straighten it, and store it somewhere where it can't bend, supported on a few spots throughout its length.

When you cut it down, it doesn't bend so much. It's just a little floppy as a 10' piece.

Very nice work, clever idea on the faucet washer and the spring. A plug on the other side would help with the sealing, but if you can already get 100' out of it, it's pretty darn good. A plug would be ideal to get smaller versions up to that kind of range, though.

The check valve is interesting, but I really like this idea here because of the inexpensive parts, as well as the relatively easy construction. I look forward to seeing the 3/4" version, good work so far.

Edit: How reliable is it? Does it seal perfectly every time, or is there any fussing with it?

I'll be there, +1 atleast, I think.

First try nail polish remover.

I know it's much more gravitated to paint removal, but I've had luck at least loosening super glue. And it's relatively plastic-safe.

And try dipping it in boiling water.

The kind of nail polish remover you want would be pure acetone. Which is not plastic safe, it will start to dissolve it, but as long as you try to keep it away from plastic and quickly remove any acetone that does come in contact with the plastic, you should be fine.

I haven't tried it myself, but I remember a model-making tutorial on Games Workshop's site that mentioned putting the pieces into the freezer to make the superglue brittle before trying to seperate them.

I can imagine the outcome of that.
Roommate: Why the fuck is some metal and plastic in the freezer!
You: Um, It's my angel breech.
Roommate: Then why is it in the fridge?
That would be a intresting conversation.

Wow that was not the least bit funny.

Wouldn't putting it in the freezer significantly shrink the brass? Just wondering before I try it.

No. Not significantly. Besides, don't you want it to come off?

You're using bad lubricants as a heads up, but the problem is likely when you pull back to prime it, the plunger rod separates from the head, then just slams forward not moving air.

Prime it, then check to see if the head moved. If not, the glue/bad lube could make it so that it takes too much to pull it back and it pops off the tiny plastic nub.

Edit: Also, your pics don't work.

Ah, I thought the rubber band was holding up the drill, which would be pretty dangerous. Seeing as how it's based off of a real drill press, it's much more legit than a drill rubber banded onto a rod.

I'd recommend trying a chisel (if you have one) in place of the pliers. The sharper edge should give you a better edge than the roughness the pliers seemed to give you. Just be careful though.

Definitely very interesting, I may try to build one over the summer or during spring break.

Great work, thanks for going through the trouble making templates.

Edit: Aha, thanks for clearing that up. I misread the post the first time and the glare on the plunger tube made it so that I could not see the notch in the plunger rod.

Thoughts include: Risky, shoddy, dangerous.

Really just not worth it. You're using pliers in place of actual lathe tools as well. It's an accident waiting to happen.

Put me down as a maybe, +2-4 or something. I'll let you know when it gets closer, but it looks good as of now.

Can we got some pictures of the park?
Edit: Thanks, no rush, just sometime before the war.

Ouch, that sucks.

Are there any differences in the shells or packaging so that you can tell what size the tank is before you buy or open one?

I doubt this will increase the ranges at all, because you aren't changing the dimensions of the tank itself, just the area behind the valve. The only real improvement you will see is from the amount of pumping that you have to do to reach the same pressure. Certainly an improvement for rate of fire, but not range.

The part that may affect the ranges is increasing the flow of air out of the tank. Widening the hole to the ridge will hopefully allow air to release faster.

The removal of the dead space likely won't affect the ranges, like you said, only require less pumping. Or give you a little more pressure for the same pumps. But Zorn's Lemma raises an interesting point at how well the tank will function, it would be great if you could test that as well, Tantum.

Did I ever say my goal was to make Hasbro bankrupt? No.

The goal of every company is to make money. If these guns don't sell well, they will make new guns. You don't keep manufacturing a product that doesn't sell well. If we boycott this gun, WORST CASE SCENARIO is that they will introduce price cuts early. Best case scenario, they get their shit together and start focussing on a new line of blasters. N-Strike has been around for a long time, because it sells like crazy. As I've said many times before, this generation is hooked on multiplayer FPS video games. As long as these people keep buying N-Strike, the company will continue in this direction. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. Why change their product line if the Recon clones are still selling?

We're not enough of Nerf's product share to impact them with a "boycott". If all of the NIC didn't buy the longstike/deploy (impossible), Nerf would hardly notice. We're sucking NFs off the shelf and neglecting Mavs, but the Mav is still their best selling blaster, they won't cater to us.

If profits start to dip, the most logical thing to do as a company is to change the product. They'll see that people don't buy blasters for appearance alone, we want quality blasters that do cool stuff. In the past, every Nerf gun had a gimmick, and save for a few failures (cyberstrike, max force) there was some seriously cool stuff. The Blastfire could shoot five darts semi-automatically. The Lightning Blitz gave us a dual wieldable Nerf scattergun. The Powerclip is arguably the coolest gun ever made as a clip fed automatic. These guns didn't need to piggyback off the popularity of pop culture to sell well. They were so damn cool, you wanted one anyway.

And right now they have the first clip and drum fed blasters than can shoot quicker and reload faster than anything before. The Raider was in Time Magazine's top 10 gadgets. They have a products and it's selling like hotcakes. They are on a roll, and it works out that reverse plungers are cheaper to make, easier, and work for everything their product needs to do.

We just need to roll with the punches. Maybe we'll continue to see off brands and homemades most commonly on the field. But that's fine, we don't need nerf brand guns to nerf.

I don't really get the longstrike. It's really just a reshelled recon. Even if it was a reshelled LS, it still brings nothing new to us. It's nerf's "longest", but it's just a fake barrel. Nothing too exciting it seems, atleast the deploy has the transformation gimmick.

Very interesting, I'd like to see the ranges as well, to know if it's worth the risk, but it really looks to be a good mod overall.

I enjoy efficiency, so reducing that volume was a pretty neat idea. What kind of pipe is your 'plastic pipe'?

Very nice. I too would like to see the ball pump moved to the front though, then the pumping and barrel advancing would be more of one motion, rather than moving your hand back to pump, then forward to advance and aim.

Also, I'd recommend a larger reloading slot, for more than 1 dart at a time. Maybe even a 4-5 dart wide slot, so that you could fire a few shots in succession before reloading without getting empty barrels. It would also make it go a lot faster to load the 20 shot turret.

Very well done, the LSFG handle was a very nice addition, and it seemed to naturally adapt the pull of the trigger.

I found a listing on a Chinese[?] auction site for the Deploy. More pics and angles, check that out.

In looking through that link, I found this picture, toward the bottom, if the link doesn't work, scroll most of the way through what appears to be the item description, before payment options.

http://img03.taobaoc...33;52061440.jpg

The slit along the side seems to show some internals, mainly, the plunger system. Looks like a reversed. Another bummer.

Edit: Tantum beat me to it

Wait... You can use nailpolish remover to bond plastics together?

Usually. You want it to be the kind that contains acetone, a common solvent. You'll want fairly pure acetone, 100% would be ideal, but I haven't been nail polish remover shopping before.

It also dissolves super glue, while it isn't too rough on your hands.

I can't make the date, but I'd def be in for the next one, if I can.

It won't hold, and it is a terrible idea. The bottle just isn't meant to deal with that amount of pressure, and when it breaks, it's damn close to your body. A PVC tank would be a much better idea.

It says, "We're sorry, the page you requested cannot be found."

There's a couple extras http:// in front of the link

Definitely a fun war, although I would prefer a different location next time. It was little too tight, and made spawning pretty rough due to the closeness. Also, all this place has to offer is the playground, where Colerain has the smaller playground and the field with trees, and Whetstone has the fields and such, but is busier.

It was warmer than I was expecting, but I lost a fair bit of darts, mostly due to them shattering on contact with the fort due to the cold.

I'm looking forward to the next one though, hopefully we can go somewhere else.

Thanks to everyone who traveled to Columbus to make this a great war.

I'll be there, with my brother, maybe a third. Two of my friends may come by too.

I'll have a (new) +bow for sale, if anyone is interested.

How much is it for a bag of "pompoms"? And how many in a bag?

Definitely a nice option for indoor wars, less destructive than normal stefans, and (hopefully) more economical than stock darts. And without the stock dart tips, you can use them in RSCBs.

I'm with Wes though, how does it effect ranges as well as accuracy? Although range is less important indoors, it's still nice to have some distance so they aren't too easy to dodge, as well as accuracy.

Goop can be easily removed with acetone(?) when it's still mushy, and can be peeled off fairly easily when it dries, but if your state has inhalant abuse laws your going to need someone older to buy it for you.

Due to me saving up for my girlfriends Christmas gift, im going to have to use the supplies, I have. Will the hot glue method work?

No. Not really, it's not very airtight, it won't work for long if it does at all.
One tube of Goop is ~$4 at your hardware store, hardly expensive, and you'll never (almost) need more.

Blue, where is acetone sold? I've never looked for it, but it is certainly a good solvent to have.

Blaze145 posted this same longshot (with a different back shoulder rest piece) in the pictures thread in this post. The pool table they are pictured on is the same. He also made a thread, which was closed. Are you the same guy...?

Looks like a third attempt on a second account to show us your longshot.

do I have to just glue it on? Or could I use nipples and couplers? Thanks in advance.

You could use "nipples and couplers", or barbed connectors, and that would likely be best. But you can also just "glue" it in, with no likely problems. Use goop and you can put a tube directly into the AT2K tank (where it origionally was) and back onto the pump. I think there is a barbed kinda deal on the pump, you can just stick the tube over, maybe a bit of goop.

I think the size you actually want is 1/4" Vinyl tubing. It's sold at your local Lowes by the foot, at $.14/ft.

Edit: Instead of the couplers louiec3 linked below, because I'm in college and cheap, I just buy the next size of tube up, with a 1/4" ID, and goop the two tubes into the one larger one as a coupler.

attention

Please no more "cincinnati nerf wars"

when it's a 40 or 50 minute drive /away/ from cincinnati

I vote mt. echo

Seconded, unless it's in a direction toward Columbus.

Provided it's near Cincy, depending on date and how that weekend looks in a month or two, I may attend, with +2-4

I won't vote because I don't know any of the parks, but +1 for whatever is closest to Cincy/Columbus

So, another update:

Host can't go to the war. National Chess Tourny overrides nerf war. Even if its a big one. That I'm planning.

My guys will be there with plenty of equipment. I hope you will have fun. BTW, my bad on that. If enough people can move to the 5th, We'll do that. Otherwise, I'm not going to the war.

The 12th is best for me, the 5th is the Saturday before exams, and the 12th is the weekend right after. I have two exams Monday and one on Tues, so I'm not sure if I could spare the time on Sat. We could always keep it on the 12th, then have another one when you can make it, sometime in Jan, or something, Lynx? More nerf is never a bad thing.

Count me as a definite for the 12th, though, if we decide to keep it. +2-4.

Also, I'll have some +bows for sale at the war, PM me if you're interested and I can make one to your liking.

So either side of the Goo-Gage isn't long enough to wrap all the way around? He may have chopped the goo-gage out, leaving the tubing as long as possible, then used a larger diameter tubing and gooped the two from the AT3K inside, like a coupler.

Or, you could just buy 1/4" vinyl tubing from Home Depot for $.14 a foot. If you want it orange, you can then paint it orange.

1337- do you think that 1/2 foam might wor too? That way, with the leftovers, I could make stefans.

Why wouldn't it...?

I keep a box and a bag with all of my foam scaps in it. It largely consists of failed/broken stefans, and foam that wouldn't make good darts (bends in it), and I just use that to dampen the sounds and vibrations of my guns. It doesn't really cost me anythinh extra, I just recycle what I would have thrown away.

This whole thing is really starting to piss me off right about now. The trigger (the actual firefly trigger) just got really messed up and suddenly, everything (about 5 different things) is starting to sprout a leak. Like I said, this is really frustrating me, so I think I will come back to this in a few days.

Is there goop on all the tubing to seal it? That alone can make a big difference in leaks. As for the firefly trigger, I'd replace some of the hot with epoxy or epoxy putty, especially the hot glue holding the part that pulls the AT3K tank pin.

Furthermore, I would band the bladder to squeeze it to higher pressures. Higher pressure will really help the air tank retain its power. As a side note, and out of curiosity, does anyone know what pressure air tanks typically use? Just PM me the answer if you know, not to clog up Cheesy's thread.

Also, JSB's idea would be good, though I can't visualize it now. Not having to work against the pressure would really help the trigger.

I'm really interested to see how this pans out, very nice.

Very nice. A good idea with solid execution.

I'm interested in how the ranges change with how many shots you do in succession, however. Is there a big drop, or a slow consistant decline, if any? I've never dealt with or seen a magstrike pump, so I don't know how well it refills the tank.

Dang, looks like it was a lot of fun. Although the OSU/Iowa game was too... I hope to see you guys at the next one on Dec. 12.

wait so if i use cpvc for my barrel and pvc for my clip what coupler should i use, and i still don't get it. If my darts can only be twisted in cpvc, how will i shake it down and have the dart go to the barrel

They don't need to go that far into the barrel, just make the cpvc kinda funnel the darts by making a cone kinda thing, so the darts are guided into position.

I use a PVC T with a piece of PVC drilled out to that it holds the CPVC, then I put that into the coupler, but if you can find PVC that has an ID big enough for CPVC (5/8"), use that.

Thanks, but will a rscb clip work if my darts fit snug in cpvc. I use ace hardware foam and i have to twist it in cpvc, i'm scared that the darts won't slide down.

Then use CPVC for the barrel and PVC for the clip part. It's what I do, my darts are snug in CPVC.

The clip obviously has to be loose on the darts, but the barrel doesn't have to.