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Read Carbon's post, its at the top of the page. We had a pretty informative discussion on gas laws and pressure.
Shadow 92's Content
There have been 189 items by Shadow 92 (Search limited from 08-December 96)
#148909 Pvc And Air
Posted by
on 02 April 2008 - 07:22 PM
in
Homemades
#148906 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 02 April 2008 - 07:17 PM
in
Homemades
No, its okay, go on. Its mildly entertaining.Can we please stop thread-crapping Shadow 92's thread about this now?
Thanks for all the info on pumps. I won't really need it for this project but its good to know.
Whoa! Looks like you got a little carried away with the zeros there.You can buy 30000 psi tanks with regulators pre filled at Target, Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart and others for 40 bucks. Refill at paintball shop or scuba store.
Wow, 40 dollars. That will save me a ton latter on. Most of the tanks that I looked at were a couple hundred.
FYI: I'll buy the parts to build the prototype soon. Hopefully, the gun will be built in two weeks.
#147805 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 29 March 2008 - 05:05 PM
in
Homemades
I don't need it to go over 1,000 psi. I just want the option to fill it up at home it runs out. Anything over 120 psi would be great.
#147619 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 28 March 2008 - 10:07 PM
in
Homemades
Really, its only 135? I remember reading the original topic but I thought the 135 was the price without an HPA tank. I'll definitely look into one. Is there any way you can make it so you fill the tank up with a regular bike pump so you don't have to go to a paintball shop every time it runs out?This is the HPA setup I use with Nerf. I don't really use the LPA setup anymore.
Made entirely with off-the-shelf parts. Total part cost is around $135.
#147592 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 28 March 2008 - 09:08 PM
in
Homemades
Unless you're using very hard o-rings that setup is going to have A TON of friction to overcome. I hope you get it to work though.
Thanks. I was thinking about using two o-rings with a medium seal if the single o-ring didn't have a sufficent seal. Hopefully, it will mean I won't have to use a tight fitting o-ring.
Well I think you should make the breach bigger allowing clips and you could use a air regulator regulator like CS and his MS.
I want to keep the breach small so when I go to build the final design (which will fire paintballs) there won't be any huge differences. I'm perfectly fine with manually loading each .75" long dart. I actually do plan on using a homemade regulator for the final design but I decided not to incorporate it into the prototype because it would mean that cost would go up with having to build both a regulator and a LPA tank. I don't want to use an air compressor because the gun would no longer be portable, but the valve is designed so it can accept a constant supply of regulated air.
#147267 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 27 March 2008 - 02:13 PM
in
Homemades
The barb connections on your valve look too restrictive to work. None of the passage ways should be below 1/4" ID (or equivalent area).
Unless of course your trigger valve is just a pilot valve for a larger valve.
I'm going to use 1/4" ID tube fittings. They just came out a little small because I made the trigger and the rest of the gun separately. The trigger valve is used to release the air in front of the bolt, causing the bolt to move back.
Here's a diagram I made for a while back. The prototype vents the air directly as opposed to piloting the QEV which vents the air in front of the bolt. The setup is also a little different, but it explains the general idea,
#147175 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 26 March 2008 - 08:45 PM
in
Homemades
Yeah, there won't be a magazine. Since the prototype isn't semi auto, I figured I would just put a small mega stefan in the breach to load it.
Here it is with the 3 way valve trigger. I was feeling a bit lazy so I didn't make the actual trigger or the tubing that connects the pump and the valve. But everything else is there.
Does everyone get how it works? I'm just asking because that's the only way I can get constructive criticism.
Here it is with the 3 way valve trigger. I was feeling a bit lazy so I didn't make the actual trigger or the tubing that connects the pump and the valve. But everything else is there.
Does everyone get how it works? I'm just asking because that's the only way I can get constructive criticism.
#147107 Semi Auto Prototype
Posted by
on 26 March 2008 - 01:15 PM
in
Homemades
Here's a Nerf/ paintball design that I've been working on. It works by using the bolt as a piston. If you want more info on the evolution and background on the design see here. I'm building a prototype that will test the effectiveness of the piston bolt before I build the actual design which will strictly fire reballs. The prototype features the current design's bolt and and valve. A homemade pump is used to fill the chamber and will take the place of a remote airtank.
I know that most people don't like designs, but I have the full intention of building it. I already made an order list on Mcmaster. The only reason I will not build this is if someone can suggest and improvement to the design.
I know that most people don't like designs, but I have the full intention of building it. I already made an order list on Mcmaster. The only reason I will not build this is if someone can suggest and improvement to the design.
#147102 Intro / Question
Posted by
on 26 March 2008 - 12:42 PM
in
Homemades
If you're going to make a semi auto valve, why not just make a semi auto valve too? It wouldn't be too hard. All you would need is a regular piston, a valve that both fills air and cuts it off, and a semi auto valve.
Here's a diagram that shows a valve that will both allow air in to fill the chamber and pilot it. Its the part labeled 3 port valve. (I didn't make the diagram, someone else on Spudfiles did to help me with a semi-auto design.)
Heres a link to working semi-auto bolt.
Combine those two things with a barrel sealing piston and you have yourself a semi auto blaster.
Or you could try and improve on this
^Link^
Here's a diagram that shows a valve that will both allow air in to fill the chamber and pilot it. Its the part labeled 3 port valve. (I didn't make the diagram, someone else on Spudfiles did to help me with a semi-auto design.)
Heres a link to working semi-auto bolt.
Combine those two things with a barrel sealing piston and you have yourself a semi auto blaster.
Or you could try and improve on this
^Link^
#146594 Point Of Putting An Ar In A Gun
Posted by
on 24 March 2008 - 01:04 PM
in
Modifications
ARs also prevents people from putting objects other than darts insides a barrel. Imagine what would happen if you stuck a screwdriver inside a longshot. In addition, ARs allow hasbro to make the actual gun more powerful. If there wasn't an AR, the gun could only fire at its best straight out of the box.
#144828 Check Out My First Homemade
Posted by
on 11 March 2008 - 10:54 PM
in
Homemades
Pressurizing pvc in the snot is a bad idea all together. You just thought about the gas properties. You failed to take the pvc's properties into consideration. When pvc gets cold it gets significantly brittle from when it's at room temperature. The pvc just doesn't have the stretch as it did when it was warmer.
I don't recall the properties of abs. Although that's usually left for basic combustion spudguns, not pneumatics.
I never said I pressurized a cannon in the snow. I was merely using it as an extreme example to demonstrate the rare occurence when a temperature change would result in the explosion of PVC pipe due to an increase in temperature.
"The main problem with using PVC pipe and fittings for compressed gas is not that it spontaneously explodes but that PVC is a brittle material that can be broken or shattered with external force unless properly protected. Compressed gasses can be best described as being analogous to a coiled spring. When a PVC pipe or fitting fails when under stress from compressed gas it literally explodes like a bomb, sending shards of plastic flying several feet in all directions. Liquids, on the other hand, being compressed by only 1/10th of 1% contain very little stored energy. When pressurized systems with liquids fail, the energy is dissipated very quickly, thereby creating a much lower potential for hazard. "
In other words, they hydrotest HPA tanks because it's a helluva lot less dangerous than using air.
Okay, I get it. I always thought that people said that because they believed that PVC would be more likely to fail because a gas was being used as opposed to liquid, for which it is rated for. I understand now that PVC can handle 100 psi (depending on the size), but if it were to exceed the pressure rating then it would fail catastrophicly as opposed to simply leaking.
Wow, this turned into a very informative debate. Usually someone gets butt hurt and starts yelling (or typing agressively
) but this was surprisingly pleasant. I learned a lot. Why can't all topics be like this?
#144825 Bbb O-ring Plunger Fix?
Posted by
on 11 March 2008 - 10:35 PM
in
Modifications
Maybe we're using gaskets made of different materials, but I know for a fact that my SNAP's plunger dries out much more quickly than any of my modified guns with o-rings. And I apologize if I said that an o-ring based plunger sealed better than a gasket based plunger. I meant to say that a o-ring plungers generally work better because they don't generate as much friction as gaskets. Spring guns shouldn't have a plunger that has a seal so tight that it impedes on it's movement. A good way to test if an existing plunger has a decent seal is to simply fill the top with water. If it doesn't leak, then the seal works. Try to get it so you get the least friction while still being able to hold water.
And while I can't speak for Carbon or CS themselves, I can recall what I think they said. I believe that Carbon uses gaskets because they're easier to make and when developing the original SNAP, he couldn't find a big enough o-ring. I think that Captain Slug modified his LS's plunger as such to compensate for the spring replacement.
So personally, I'll continue to prefer o-rings because I believe that they provide adequete seals and don't generate as much friction. I'll also use them because I don't want to have to lubricate it every week.
And while I can't speak for Carbon or CS themselves, I can recall what I think they said. I believe that Carbon uses gaskets because they're easier to make and when developing the original SNAP, he couldn't find a big enough o-ring. I think that Captain Slug modified his LS's plunger as such to compensate for the spring replacement.
So personally, I'll continue to prefer o-rings because I believe that they provide adequete seals and don't generate as much friction. I'll also use them because I don't want to have to lubricate it every week.
#144672 Check Out My First Homemade
Posted by
on 10 March 2008 - 11:27 PM
in
Homemades
Sorry if we appear to be harping on primer and safety, but that's because PVC isn't rated for gas pressure: those ratings on the tube are for liquid only. That, and when it fails, it tends to fail explosively (and with shrapnel). Because of that, safety precautions are a good thing...and that means PVC cement with primer.
What's the difference between liquid pressure and gas pressure? I mean if you have a liquid at 25 psi and a gas at 25 psi then that means they're both exerting 25 pounds of pressure per square inch. I don't get why it wouldn't be rated for both liquid and gas? The only possible explanation is that air pressure more easily fluctuates with temperature than liquid. And if that's the case, I don't see why it isn't safe to take PVC rated to 120 psi to 100 psi (assuming that it is glued properly). Unless you fill the air tank outside in the snow and then bring back inside to your house with the temperature set to 90, I don't think that you could raise the pressure enough by an increase in temperature to cause it to explode with a 20 psi buffer.
EDIT: nice gun. I like the airtank's extension into the foregrip. Have you ever considered using a blow gun trigger to pilot the solenoid?
#144670 Bbb O-ring Plunger Fix?
Posted by
on 10 March 2008 - 11:15 PM
in
Modifications
The BBB plunger is designed so it expands and creates an effective seal when exposed to pressure on the front of the curve. Are you having problems with it not firing at all without any plunger head modifications or this an attempt to increase range? If it's just to boost range, I suggest trimming the plunger's "wings" to decrease its weight. I think that should work better than replacing the plunger face with a washer/ gasket setup.
But I suppose if you really want a better seal than the stock plunger head replace it with a three nylon washers and an o-ring. Two of the washers should the same size as the steel washers in bobafan's diagram and one should be slightly smaller. The small washer should be sandwiched in between the larger washers to create groove for the o-ring to sit. In theory this should work better because nylon is much lighter than steel and o-rings produce less friction than gaskets and respond to lubricants better.
But I suppose if you really want a better seal than the stock plunger head replace it with a three nylon washers and an o-ring. Two of the washers should the same size as the steel washers in bobafan's diagram and one should be slightly smaller. The small washer should be sandwiched in between the larger washers to create groove for the o-ring to sit. In theory this should work better because nylon is much lighter than steel and o-rings produce less friction than gaskets and respond to lubricants better.
#143242 Pneumatic Blow (air) Gun Tool
Posted by
on 29 February 2008 - 08:58 PM
in
Homemades
They aren't that useful as a main valve for nerf darts but they're handy when it comes to piloting a piston valve or firing smaller projectiles such as bbs. Check a place like spudfiles for more information on either.
#140588 Embedding Videos
Posted by
on 16 February 2008 - 02:16 PM
in
Off Topic
Okay thanks anyways.
#140469 Embedding Videos
Posted by
on 15 February 2008 - 05:27 PM
in
Off Topic
Does anyone know how to embed a video that isn't from youtube? I'm trying to embed a video that I made on photobucket's remix program.
#138699 Paintball
Posted by
on 04 February 2008 - 11:20 PM
in
Off Topic
PBreview.com has reviews for anything paintball.
Get an Ion. If you're on more of a budget get a Vibe.
Get an Ion. If you're on more of a budget get a Vibe.
#134884 Another Gun Buidling Comunity
Posted by
on 03 January 2008 - 09:43 PM
in
General Nerf
I started a topic about an all air bolt and firing system design here and I think I mentioned Nerfhaven somewhere. The final design (not by me) looks pretty sick.
You're forgetting golf balls.Yes, but we shoot foam.
They shoot vegetables.
#132083 Trigger Designs
Posted by
on 11 December 2007 - 06:59 PM
in
Homemades
I designed it mostly as a proof of concept sort of thing. The goal was a blaster that was both relatively compact and powerful.These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.
Heres what I'm designing now. I know its not nerf, but designing a semi auto paintball-type gun is a lot easier than designing a new semi auto nerf gun. Its works off a two way valve that uses air pressure to move a bolt and fire a ball. The general design is based on the Smart Parts Ion with some changes to make it fire at a lower pressure. The trade off is that the bolt will only be able to move around five times a second compared to fifteen. The numbers aren't real, just rough guesses.
#128160 At2k Turret Integrated Bbb
Posted by
on 31 October 2007 - 08:12 PM
in
Modifications
What kind of PVC did you use to support the turret? And how are some members able to post if they're still validating?
#125771 Could Someone Help Me With Random Homemade Stuff
Posted by
on 10 October 2007 - 10:29 PM
in
Homemades
How to Mod Sprinkler Valves
Check Wikipedia for how sprinkler valves work and imagine a blow gun trigger venting air in the diaphragm. This creates an inbalance in pressure and allows the diaphragm to lift up and allow air to flow to the other side.
Check Wikipedia for how sprinkler valves work and imagine a blow gun trigger venting air in the diaphragm. This creates an inbalance in pressure and allows the diaphragm to lift up and allow air to flow to the other side.
#125724 Trigger Designs
Posted by
on 10 October 2007 - 06:51 PM
in
Homemades
I found some valves used on pneumatic spudguns. It uses a piston and a pressure difference to fire allowing for faster opening times than a the valves seen in most nerf guns and has a higher flow rate than QEV's and modified sprinkler valves.
Piston Valves
These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.
Piston Valves
These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.
#125662 Sts Grenade
Posted by
on 09 October 2007 - 09:34 PM
in
Modifications
The SSPB's trigger is strangley reminiscent to the piston designs used on spud guns in a sense that both use a pilot valve to open the "valve" that leads to the barrel. I've been trying to design pilot activated valves for a while but now I think I might have just found it. Thanks (But don't expect to see a homemade from me anytime soon.)
This mod is one of the most original mod I've seen in a while.
This mod is one of the most original mod I've seen in a while.
#125306 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 07 October 2007 - 11:10 AM
in
Modifications
Yeah, I used Gimp. Graphic Image Modifiyer Program. I just took a picture of the Magstike's outside and a picture of the internals from the same camera angle. I then used Gimp to layer the pictures on top of each other, making the picture of the Magstrike's outside translucent.What the hell? I'm assuming you did that with some sort of computer program.
#125301 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 07 October 2007 - 10:07 AM
in
Modifications
I've been playing around with Gimp. It's a little messy but it still looks some what decent.
#125007 Converting Water Guns>?
Posted by
on 04 October 2007 - 12:32 PM
in
General Nerf
I'm pretty sure that most Super Soakers don't have Nerf-style over pressure valve on their pumps.well today I bought a maxd 5000 for 2.99$ at value village and as far as im concerned all I have to do is plug the pressure valve? and add a barrel if im not mistaken.
EDIT: Here's a link showing how to "freeze the check valve."
#124428 Big Bad Bow Discovery/ Help
Posted by
on 29 September 2007 - 12:12 AM
in
General Nerf
Pictures of what you did would clarify a lot. But from what I gather, you're pushing back your barrel, the barrel is pushing on the plunger, and the gun is cocked?
CustomSnake202's BBB mod
Click on the link below to see which piece he was talking about....you won't hesitate saving the two orange nubby poles with their springs on the side of the gun. This is what actually keeps the gun cocked, something I did not know and almost threw away vital pieces.
CustomSnake202's BBB mod
#124426 Nerf Site Directory
Posted by
on 29 September 2007 - 12:02 AM
in
Site Feedback
Pre-hack Nerfhaven had a tab for links. When you clicked on the tab it said it was "in progress" or something. I guess it was never finished because the tab was removed after the site was redesigned.
As for me, I'd like a nerf site directory. It wouldn't even have to be just links to other nerf sites, it could be a directory that links to anything that inspires new mods or homemades. Spudfiles, Wikipedia, Howstuffworks, and Warpig's paintball site are all websites that I've used when planning a mod.
As for me, I'd like a nerf site directory. It wouldn't even have to be just links to other nerf sites, it could be a directory that links to anything that inspires new mods or homemades. Spudfiles, Wikipedia, Howstuffworks, and Warpig's paintball site are all websites that I've used when planning a mod.
#124424 Your Day Of Nerfing
Posted by
on 28 September 2007 - 11:50 PM
in
General Nerf
I like this thread.
Well, I've been having a slow nerf week. All I did was design a homemade hose handle, debated whether a PVC or HPA external tank would be more air efficient, and looked back at some of my first mods.
Well, I've been having a slow nerf week. All I did was design a homemade hose handle, debated whether a PVC or HPA external tank would be more air efficient, and looked back at some of my first mods.
#123841 Trigger Designs
Posted by
on 22 September 2007 - 02:57 PM
in
Homemades
Here it is redesigned:
This is the valve at rest. The spring holds the piston back keeping it sealed. The piston is now composed of a threaded rod with rubber fender washers, steel fender washers, and some nuts. This will allow the piston to be adjusted to match the desired trigger pull.
Valve opened.
Due to the speed of the sprinkler valve's opening time, the pilot valve should only have to remain open for a short amount of time (as demonstrated in the picture below).
Valve closed/ sealed off
After the valve is opened, it is immediately sealed off when the trigger is pulled a certain length. This allows the sprinkler valve to be opened and closed at a predetermined time, creating a semi automatic valve.
Valve in full auto position
If the sprinkler valve and pilot valve are connected to a homemade with components similar to a Magstrike or Rapid Fire 20, then the valve can be used for fully automatic firing. By fully depressing the trigger, the pilot valve remains open, allowing a constant supply of air flow. If the pilot and solenoid valve is connected to a regular airtank, then this mode can be used to dump the entire supply of air.
This is the valve at rest. The spring holds the piston back keeping it sealed. The piston is now composed of a threaded rod with rubber fender washers, steel fender washers, and some nuts. This will allow the piston to be adjusted to match the desired trigger pull.
Valve opened.
Due to the speed of the sprinkler valve's opening time, the pilot valve should only have to remain open for a short amount of time (as demonstrated in the picture below).
Valve closed/ sealed off
After the valve is opened, it is immediately sealed off when the trigger is pulled a certain length. This allows the sprinkler valve to be opened and closed at a predetermined time, creating a semi automatic valve.
Valve in full auto position
If the sprinkler valve and pilot valve are connected to a homemade with components similar to a Magstrike or Rapid Fire 20, then the valve can be used for fully automatic firing. By fully depressing the trigger, the pilot valve remains open, allowing a constant supply of air flow. If the pilot and solenoid valve is connected to a regular airtank, then this mode can be used to dump the entire supply of air.
#123659 Trigger Designs
Posted by
on 20 September 2007 - 12:40 PM
in
Homemades
After I spent sometime reading about how to modify a sprinkler valve on Spudfiles, I realized that all the blowgun trigger did was vent air. The length of time that the blowgun trigger was depressed was the amount of time that the valve was opened. So all I did was design a valve that vented pressure from the diaphragm of a sprinkler valve and I got this.
This picture reflects my influence from Dr. Nerf's semi-auto valve.
Valve at rest
Valve open
Valve sealed off
More details later...
EDIT: just realized that the valve still vents air even when it's "sealed off."
This picture reflects my influence from Dr. Nerf's semi-auto valve.
Valve at rest
Valve open
Valve sealed off
More details later...
EDIT: just realized that the valve still vents air even when it's "sealed off."
#123645 Clipped Nf Mod
Posted by
on 20 September 2007 - 10:36 AM
in
Modifications
What size darts do you plan on using? Stefans made from 1/2" FBR actually have a diameter closer to .51". It's a small difference but is enough to prevent micro Stefans from firing from 1/2" ID PETG (I would know, I bought 18 feet of the stuff.)I am going to try making a real world write up (not paint drawings) of this with 5/8" and 1/2" PETG.
#122845 Which Can Be Made Smaller?
Posted by
on 12 September 2007 - 07:46 PM
in
General Nerf
One and one quarter inch PVC pipe. AKA: 1.25"Whats 11/4" PVC?
#122357 Quick Plasti-dip Question
Posted by
on 07 September 2007 - 07:02 PM
in
General Nerf
I found my Plasti-Dip next to the spray paint at Home Depot.
#118362 The Eyes Of Fire.
Posted by
on 05 August 2007 - 11:34 AM
in
Modifications
Wow. That's the greatest integration I've ever seen. And your method for planning is genius! I've really got to try using it some time.
I'm guessing that you can unload that thing about 25 times (1000 shots/ 40 darts) before the tank empties. So how do you plan on refilling the HPA tank? Do you plan on taking it to a paintball store? I guess if you use this strictly for assassin games then you wouldn't have a problem though.
I'm guessing that you can unload that thing about 25 times (1000 shots/ 40 darts) before the tank empties. So how do you plan on refilling the HPA tank? Do you plan on taking it to a paintball store? I guess if you use this strictly for assassin games then you wouldn't have a problem though.
#115593 Dartsmithing Tips Archive
Posted by
on 12 July 2007 - 04:17 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Here's a little diagram of what I use to cool my darts now.
The grey is a plastic container, the red is a glass or cup, the dark blue is salt water, and the light blue is crushed ice with salt sprinkled on top of it. The ice from the plastic container cools down the water inside the cup. By keeping the cooling area and the dipping area separate, but in close contact, I can dip the darts and cool them instantly without having to worry about pieces of ice floating up to the top and messing up the dome. It's anything revolutionary but it gets the job done.
The grey is a plastic container, the red is a glass or cup, the dark blue is salt water, and the light blue is crushed ice with salt sprinkled on top of it. The ice from the plastic container cools down the water inside the cup. By keeping the cooling area and the dipping area separate, but in close contact, I can dip the darts and cool them instantly without having to worry about pieces of ice floating up to the top and messing up the dome. It's anything revolutionary but it gets the job done.
#115588 Semi-auto Air Tank Design
Posted by
on 12 July 2007 - 03:53 PM
in
Homemades
Your welcome. I'm assuming that the design is a simplified version of the valve. The real valve is composed of many more pieces. And what do you intend to do with the semi-auto tank after you build it? If you're thinking about making a semi-auto gun then you would have to incorporate something that loads the dart with each trigger pull in addition to firing it. And that's something that requires much more work.Alright so heeding Shadow's advice i drew up a new design for the gun. Once again feedback would be nice. Thanks, especially to Shadow for his advice, and Dr. Nerf and Captain Slug for their designs.
Doom, can you post picks of the redesigned valve?
