I can talk about Nerf for hours.

I know what you mean, of course I don't know any nearby nerfers to mod with or talk to.

Now you all know why my forum posts are so long.

Who is all in the most recent Podcast? The only name I caught was Badwrench.

BadWrench, JediJoe, Twitch, Father Time, and myself.

Dude that was you? oh man, I gotta maintain my skype lists better...

Aww, man.... Right through the heart.

I can talk about Nerf for hours.

I know what you mean, of course I don't know any nearby nerfers to mod with or talk to.

Now you all know why my forum posts are so long.

Who is all in the most recent Podcast? The only name I caught was Badwrench.

BadWrench, JediJoe, Twitch, Father Time, and myself.

If you guys need someone for a podcast, I'm available. I can talk about Nerf for hours.

I can eat a peach for hours.

Huh. I thought for sure that I'd posted the sizing somewhere before, but I can't locate it.

Essentially it's this:

Stock Nerf/Buzzbee/Lanard/ERTL foam balls are all about 1.75", or 44mm in diameter.
Target Golf Balls are 41.5mm, or about 1.625".
K-Mart and Fred Meyer/Kroger golf balls are 39mm, or about 1.55".
Lanard Ball Blaster (the little one) and Rappn' Fire blaster balls are 32.5mm, or about 1.25-1.3"
Power Popper balls are 29.5mm, or about 1.125".
BattleMax balls are 23.5mm, or about .925".



1.5" Thinwall PVC's ID is about 1.75"
1.5" SCH40 PVC is about 1.6".
1.25" Thinwall PVC is about 1.5".
1.25" SCH40 PVC is about 1.36".
1" Thinwall PVC is about 1.125".
1" SCH40 PVC is about 1.0".
3/4" Thinwall PVC is about 0.96"
3/4" SCH40 PVC is about 0.81"

So Cal has balls-only rounds on a fairly regular basis, for shits and giggles. This is just plain awesome; I'm gonna have to give that a try. Especially since my work sells those water guns, so I can get them dirt cheap.

How's the accuracy? Some ballguns (mostly the airpowered Bagsified ones) have a tendency to curve one way or the other, depending on some friction on some sides of the barrel. Are you noticing anything like that with yours, or do they track fairly straight?

It depends a LOT on the individual balls. The green balls tend to knuckle ball pretty straight out, but the yellow balls curve a fair amount. This can be mitigated a lot by using very smooth pipe. I find that some brands must use a different process of extrusion, and are rather stippled on the inside. I am also running experiments both on rifling and applying backspin.

Since we got a reactor / buzz bee ballzooka thread going...

Do the Buzz Bee brand foam balls work in Nerf ball guns? No stores here sell the green Nerf balls. I have a buzzsaw but no ammo for it.

Yes, the Buzzbee and ERTL balls work just fine, though the green Nerf balls work the best in Reactors and Cosmic Thrusters. For flywheel blasters like the Buzz/Ripsaw and the Motorized Ballzooka, you can even use the dimpled practice golf balls from Target and Walmart.

Is the hole at the end clogged up at all?

No, the hole is clear, it's just around the edges that it's covered - although the hole is a little dis-figured (looks more like a cat's eye than a round hole)

Is the blue stuff easily removable? Try flushing the plunger tube with warm water, then use sandpaper on the plunger head very carefully.

It's weird: some of it falls off if you look at it wrong, but some of it needed a chisel (don't worry, I was careful) - didn't think of water, shoot, better go wash it.

Do a wash 'n lube, then test fit, put the plunger in the tube, hold your finger ond the hole on the other end of the tube, push the plunger fast through the tube, if it doesnt compress the air, then come back....

Is the plunger head stil flexible?? If not the sucker is dried out, and youll have to build an replacement........

Plunger head is still flexible, yes, but not exceedingly - and thanks, didn't even think to check it BEFORE I put the gun back together, makes sense!

That blue gunk was all over my internals as well. If I had to guess I think it is just a mixture of the ancient stock lube and dirt in the blaster. I just washed it off and re-lubed, no harm done.

Haha oh good, glad this isn't an isolated case! I figured it had something to do with age and (hopefully) not misuse.

Clean it and lube it.

Right! Now, to find a local place that sells the RIGHT kind of lube...because silicon lube is bad for this gun, yeah?

So, reading the stickied lubricant thread is beneath you? Use silicone grease, not anything which is aerosolized.

And for those of you who are wondering, what I did with your mother last night was both safe and consensual.

And that's all I really ask, VACC. I'm not implying that either of you are carrying anything, but it's always best, you know? Just don't forget your safeword (or phrase as the case may be), though, because you can't claim anything she'd doing to you as non-consensual later, just because you can't remember "Spoon is the best nerfer EVER".

Just keep in mind the MaxShot's tendency toward violent outbursts with the original spring...

Would axle grease work?

No. Nearly any type of grease that you may be referring to is a definite "no". Molybdenum Disulfide grease (what we use for axle joints at the auto shop I work for) contains petroleum distillates. As do ALL "wheel bearing" greases, whether they are yellow, red, blue... Or neon green, for that matter. Stay away from that stuff too. It's made with Radium Sulfonate, and may grow you an extra eye.

Even if the power bow's STOCK internals end up being too small for anything useful, you could always replace the plunger tube with something larger. But considering the prices you would pay for anything from Hasbro, I'd purchase one. I wish they were available locally. I would certainly purchase one.

and holds seven balls instead of six

You just can't look beyond simple capacity for taking in balls can you? I bet the Cosmic Thruster had a much better personality.

I had a funny feeling that this thread was going to devolve in to testicle humor. I'm SO happy that's not the case!

Sweet! That looks pretty beast! If it really does shoot 50-60ish feet than that would be seriously fun to play around with! Do you have to push the pump really fast though?

Well of course!

This is so cool. I feel bad for anyone who wants to have a ball fight with you!
How hard are the balls shooting? or do they float more then shoot?

They do tend to be somewhat unruly. But the balls do hit pretty hard through most of the range. The stock balls only weigh about 5g, though, so after a while they will just float.

How powerful do you think it could get if we singled it with a dart rather than a ball?

Gah, REALLY not the point. Beside that, you would need really tight darts and a very long barrel. But push-pull is a terrible method of shooting small projectiles.

My biggest gripe with current model ballguns has been with the lack of variety, and somewhat also with the mediocre performance. Every company makes the same blaster now! Look on the shelves, and all you find will be Reactors from Nerf, Cosmic Thrusters from Lanard *snicker*, and Ball Blastzookas from Buzzbee. What happened to the Ballzookas? The Master Blasters? The Pulsators? The most original recent design is the Lanard Ball Blaster, which has an ingenious breech and plunger design. Unfortunately, it uses small balls (1.25" - 1.33"). I plan on replicating it for use with the larger "standard" balls.

But all of the other blasters use the same formula: six or seven round inline clip, inverse push-pull plunger about 2" in diameter. They all perform the same, too. Ranges about thirty feet, and no effective modifications for them. So I decided to change that.

From the beginning of this project, my intent was to convert the inline style clip to an RSCB type. Mostly for simple space savings, but also in preparation for other projects. I began with a Buzzbee Ball Blastzooka, which I had acquired broken at Goodwill for $1. Here she is posing with her friend Stream Machine looking up her skirt.

It was a perfect Jaime Sommers for this project. By the way, in stock form this blaster is less expensive than the Reactor or Cosmic Thruster *snicker*, and holds seven balls instead of six. The original plunger tube had been broken out the back by a somewhat overzealous child.

I started by removing the handles, the broken tube, and the plunger head, as they are unneeded for this project. Then I filled the holes in the back plate, and began reinforcing what will become the new air inlet. I found that a short section of Sch40 2" PVC fit perfectly around. Cut the section and solvent welded it to the tube.


After drilling the air inlet port to 5/8" (mainly because it was the biggest bit I had handy, but also because it fits very nicely), I trimmed the elbow slightly and solvent welded the whole thing together. I also added two extra strips of PVC for extra strength, and then turned my attention to the second part of the project....


The Plunger!

I picked up a Stream Machine water cannon at Goodwill for $2, expressly for this project. Because it's just a simple, huge plunger, with an excellent seal. Just a bonus that it is orange. :)So I started by taking a chisel to the front cap. Turns out it has threads, though, so I could have made it easier on myself. Oops.



These tubes have a nearly identical dimension to Sch40 1.5" PVC, which means that the 1-1/4" to 1/2" reducer bushing fits in nicely with a couple turns of electrical tape. I also trimmed the bushing a little in the back, but that ended up intruding on the open space inside. Easily fixed with some more pipe weld and the addition of some foam padding on the back.



Glue in the bushing, and lastly I added a 1.5" to 2" reducer bushing around the outside to make sure that the inside bushing can't pop out.


And there you go! Load it up with seven balls and start firing!



Oh, but shoot... Pump away and we get the same abysmal range, but twice a many projectiles. Crap. Back to work then.
I had been hoping to be able to keep the sprung follower just for convenience. Unfortunately, it was too much for the air flow, and would push the next ball in to place regardless. The upside is that when we remove the spring and follower, we have enough room for eight balls in the clip! Well, that eliminated the double fire issue, but we still aren't getting full use of the increased plunger volume.
Right! Longer barrel, that's what we forgot! Okay, so we want this blaster to remain compatible with stock Nerf/ERTL/Buzzbee/Lanard balls, so we need to use thinwall 1.5" PVC. Turns out that it is a nearly perfect fit inside the front of the Blastzooka tube. I gently heated the end of the pipe with a heat gun and expanded the outside slightly, just until it fit snugly inside. Then added some pipe weld, and let the whole thing dry until the next day.



Success! The ranges now are consistently 50-60 feet, and we've increased the clip capacity to eight rounds. I will be performing this same modification on a Cosmic Thruster *snicker*, and a Reactor in the near future, at which point I will update this article with any variations.

EDIT: Cosmic Thrusters, in spite of their humorous name, suck. The restrictor ring inside the barrel area is too wide and floppy to operate well with even the green Nerf balls. This whole thing will need to be rebuilt.

I prefer the kinds of shot-by-shot, 40-70 foot duels that result from carrying legitimate weaponry.

Yep, and in this instance, "legitimate" is almost certainly synonymous with "shoots balls".

Well, it SHOULD be.

1-1/2" drain pipe is closer. 1.25" is pretty narrow.

One thing that's been forgotten in the whole mention here.... sidearms? If you're carrying a higher-range/higher-powered blaster, is it really considered too much weight to consider carrying a sspb, eliminator, wristblitzer, etc.? Maybe it impinges on people's play styles to never carry a sidearm, but forcing half the field into standoffs with long range blasters is the other side of the coin.

I usually carry 4 eliminators... and I have charged and barrel tapped an entire team with them

So what you are saying is, Canadians have no defensive skills? Bet you are happy to be America's hat now, eh?

Sometimes, yes. Really just depends upon how awesome your hobby shop is. I buy mine from a local plastics manufacturing shop. They have sheets of 3/8" that they cut off at about 4' lengths, and will sell me two for about $20. Which is relatively inexpensive as far as that kind of stuff goes. Square shape bar is always expensive, I guess.

Take acrylic sheet and solvent-weld them together if you really don't want to order 3/8" thick sheet or rod.

Unless the solvent weld reinforces the rod, that will definitely break, Acrylic is terrible except for maybe some cosmetics. (Yes I realize I'm talking to one of the unholy 3, but I can say this from repeated personal experience.)

Why wouldn't laminated sheets be stronger? It is a general engineering concept supported by various technological achievements such as plywood, automotive windshields, two-ply bath tissue, and the three stacked condoms I use to safely bang your mom.


I make replacement rods out of 3/8" square nylon. Nothing else has worked better.

Thanks. I'm using Flying Chickens poor-mans re-breech from Nerf revolution. The Longshot has a 3b spring, 1st gen longshot spring, and a reaaaaaally streched 2nd gen recon spring. It's REAAAAAALLY easy to cock, what other springs should I put in?

Really just a section of [k26] or [k25] springs work nicely, but this is not the topic to continue this conversation in.

Hello everyone. I will probably get a lot of hate for this, but I would like to express my opinion. I have seen WAYYYY to many mods that includs AT2k air tank integrations/replacements. There seems to be a huge lack of creativity in the world of modding. Although everyone does this mod, people still seem to claim that they do indeed have a creative mod. If it has an AT2k tank in it, and it's not an AT2k, I have come to the point where I do not consider that creative, because simply everyone uses the AT2k tank. Please post a reply if you agree, or disagree with me. And if you disagree, please, tell me why!

If you are unhappy with the creativity level, then go change it. Perform a new, groundbreaking modification. Build a new blaster with a different design! But above all, don't just sit back and complain about it.

Or just ditch the ball valve for a Sprinkler valve, or mod a check valve in to a dump valve.

I realize that using a tight barrel for springers is preferred, so I've been using CPVC, but how tight is too tight?

It completely depends on how powerful your plunger is.

You should use copper.

You should use copper.

I second that. Copper is easy to find, and works amazingly well.

What the hell? No, you should not use copper. What is wrong with you two? I think we need to begin deleting content when it's either blatant trolling, or absolutely terrible advice. "Yeah, totally use this pop bottle to store air pressure!" Gah!

Another question regarding ammunition: Must they be Nerf brand? Or are Buzzbee, Lanard, and Airzone brand stuff acceptable as well?

Also, I would love to go, and I will look in to making it happen.

Bourbon: Great job on the SS2, it's great to see this works on it. And of course you can post your successes with this mod here, it would be great for everyone to know what this has been tested on. Oh, and about smaller tanks like hornet ones, the deadspace removal doesn't really apply, as the pilot portion of the valve is pretty much as thin as it can get without causing problems from a too-low flow rate. You may be able to get rid of a little, but the dead space removal part of the mod probably wouldn't be worth the effort.

Hipponater: Thank you, and the pipe was from the internals of some slime-shooting super soaker. Kind of an obscure part.

Bourbon again: The epoxy is Devcon General Purpose Epoxy. Be sure to mix it really thoroughly. That's the number one reason for epoxy failure.

Soothsayer: Thanks, man!

Nisaburo: Point noted about the solvent weld. I'll do that if/when the joint fails.

Draconis: Thanks, and same as above. I'll also edit the write-up.

Everyone: I'll try to get ranges up by today. I have some stuff to do right now, but I'll be sure to get to it later.

I doubt this will increase the ranges at all, because you aren't changing the dimensions of the tank itself, just the area behind the valve. The only real improvement you will see is from the amount of pumping that you have to do to reach the same pressure. Certainly an improvement for rate of fire, but not range.

Great idea Tantum, but you may be making the wrong recommendations for adhesives. Epoxies are certainly better for the reassembly of pressure tanks than, say, Goop, or something... But to be honest, I wouldn't trust any tank at pressure unless it was assembled by solvent welding. For pretty much ANY back pressure tank, you should be able to use PVC/ABS pipe weld, which is inexpensive and available at any hardware store.


EDIT: Oh, Ha! Nisaburo had already suggested this. Sort of.

Oh, they will. Probably more than just this one.

Oh for fuck's sake. http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18525

Really? It's the first fucking topic. You aren't a noob? Because I'm pretty sure that most people without sphincters surrounding their heads can read the topic list and decide that EVERYONE KNOWS ALREADY. If you don't want to get banned, then edit all of the content out of your post immediately and act like it was a slip of the mouse finger.

Just remember to search next time, that's all. Also, "what if" "will this work" and "i'm gonna do this" threads are generally extremely erotic.

Second post. Sorry if this topic is in the wrong place... but whatever. Does anyone think it's possible or practical to integrate a maverick to a longshot, only upside down so it fits cleaner? I dont have enough spare parts currently or experience to do this.. and I'm saving for when the longstrike comes out. Anyone up for a challenge?

If you search the modifications directory, you'll likely find reference to a number of this type of integration. It's been done with Mavericks, DTBs, and others. Sometimes with linked triggers and such.

With stronger guns, constant moving after every shot, and painted camo guns, I don't understand why they would be looked down apon.

And can you explain why that was added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole, I don't mind, I just don't see the humer there.

Partially because we erotically massage camo/realistic paint jobs due to safety. Also, don't be a pussy, get out on the field like the rest of us.

OMG. When will the madness end? It's a Recon with a shotgun grip instead of a handle?

Sorry if this is the wrong topic.

Would nail polish remover seal a BBBB tank sufficiently so that it does not blow up? I would like to know this since had a... let's say... educational experience (I cut the tank in half to fix the check valve)(I was an idiot back then).

You misunderstand. These chemicals are solvents not adhesives. They will allow two plastic pieces to be bonded together, but the solvent itself just dissolves the plastic. It would actually weaken a pressure tank to simply apply the solvent to it. You could probably use PVC or ABS pipe weld on the seam, though. They actually contain some dissolved pvc and can actually add mass to the joint.

Another note: 100% acetone is available cheaply in the health and beauty section of most department stores. Makes sure that it SAYS 100%, though. MEK is substantially better at dissolving the same plastics that acetone does, though you'll probably find that PVC pipe weld contains both. Probably for a good reason which I don't really know.

From a business standpoint, the Recon style inverse plunger makes sense, though. Two moving parts, the bolt and the tube, plus the spring. Whereas on the LS style plunger, there is the bolt, the tube, the plunger rod and head, the spring, and the spring rest. Far less manufacturing cost in the inverse design, and (for their purposes) they still offer adequate performance.

But maybe all this is just stemming from my airsoft side wanting a more "gun like" feel.

You should beat that side back in to submission.

I'd like this more if you'd added an alligator head or something. I mean, who uses modeling clay and DOESN'T add a gator?

Sorry we're not as good as you Foam Foot. Do you have seasonal depression syndrome, because it was about this time last year that you were acting that fucking miserable.

It's rather common around here, Talio. Just kinda gray and dreary all winter. Better than a blizzard, I guess. (suckers!)

I have recently figured out that all three of the aluminum water bottles that I have use a thread pattern compatible with 3/4" NPT for the mouth. I have yet to test one under pressure, however. Might be worth a try. Also, I have two different fire extinguisher tanks that i am using, as outline in my homemade ballgun thread. They work well, and I've been able to get both for free. The threads in the neck are funny, though, and required use of a CGA580 coupling from the welding shop, for $6.

I haven't worked extensively with polycarbonate yet, but if what Drac says is true, the problems with the Rev1 plunger rods breaking is with the material itself.

No, they tend to break if the holes for the plunger head or handle are drilled or tapped too quickly which heats the plastic up and causes localized weakness. Or it is drilled too far off center.

Yes, that would also cause weakness, but the greater source of weakening is the material itself. Polycarbonate is a MARVEL of modern chemical and mechanical engineering. But sheets of the stuff are cast, which introduces a somewhat crystalline structure, and is partially why this stuff is so frickin' strong. This structure is then somewhat weakened by cutting in to it. A solid bar of polycarbonate could certainly withstand a great deal of stress in any application you choose, but once you cut in to it, a la catch point, you have introduced a flaw in the structure.

Nylon, by contrast, is generally extruded, which gives the plastic a grain, much like wood. With no crystalline structure, the nylon is then only weakened by the amount of material removed. It's just a REAL pain in the ass to machine.

I was alluding largely to the idea that because 1/2" round nylon is overkill, 1/2" square is just unneeded mass. And that you can get better performance from SMALLER plunger rods in the 3/8" square dimensions.

Also, you may be interested in Split's take on this. http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?show...l=\+Pistol