No worries. I didn't find it insulting at all. Just wanted Gho5t to be aware of it.
I did not forget you, I simply couldn't find your mod. Sorry if that was insulting to you.
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There have been 100 items by ambushbug (Search limited from 24-November 93)
Isn't this the idea behind Kirby's (already super successful) mod directory? And it seems like your suggested format would just be more work for people who already have mod write-ups. I think the onus should be on the people who WANT mods to search for it themselves. I doubt guys like Ompa and Renegade are going to have time to reply to every mod "want-ad" that pops up.
Okay this is how it works someone names a gun they want mods for.Then people who know mods for it just post! This should make more space for other threads as well! .You can also post a mod at any time if it's new.
If people already have write-ups that don't appear in the directory, presumably, they can easily ask Kirby to add it. And if a write-up doesn't exist yet...... well all the more reason for that person (who wants one) to write one him/herself.
EDIT: damn GP's fast!!!
I don't think you could just glue the shells in (the blaster probably won't close properly) but there are a few mods around that do something similar to avoid the use of shells:
I saw a buzz bee double shot and i thought couldnt you just glue the shells in smoothly and not have to put the shells back in each time?
not to be a shameless self-promoter - actually, who am I kidding - I'm all about shameless self-promotion - but I've also posted a version of the Bacon Bow. Granted, the write up isn't as good as the original but its more along the lines of what Pat was describing (i.e. the "rear cocking" mechanism).
here's my version
I've seen a few PVC/CPVC turrets based on a similar idea but yours looks cleaner than most. Well done.
How does the trigger for the 1.5k work? It would be cool if you could devise one that can be fired with the front handle/grip.
Is it front-heavy?
A name...... "Orthrus" (the two-headed monster in Greek mythology)....but it sounds way too much like "orifice"...
"old" depends on your own perception. For some of the folks here, who have been nerfing for years, the version you see in stores is new. According to this thread, the only real difference is the new air restrictor.
Where can you get this new BBB and how are they different from the old ones? Why isn't there a BBB mod on the modification page?
I don't know why there isn't one on the modfications page. Probably because you could easily find one on the mod write-up directory or by searching. Shit, there have been at least 2 or 3 BBB mods in this forum in the past week.
edit: crap, AssassinNF beat me to it.
Previously, I used my two-headed monster (a Max Shot epoxied side by side with a Buzz Bee RFR with spare clips). The max shot is the primary weapon, the RFR covers my ass when I'm reloading or allows me to rush.
Last week though, I used a bunch of different primaries in a house-wide game of 'hunters' (I think that's what you call it) - tested out some of my new (and not so new mods): the Bowcaster/AT2k, Ertl FS 1010, SM3k, SM750. My favourite combination was a modded 3B (single shot) with a NF in my pocket. Though I suspect that I could only get away with an over-sized, single-shot primary in an indoor war because only 4 people were playing and it was almost completely dark.
I was struggling for ages to build a decent spring-fed clip (a la Ompa's) but I couldn't find a system that worked reliably (the crappy spring I made from old SM3K air restrictors) kept jamming.
So for now, I'm settling for the gravity-fed (non-removable but reloadable) clip.
This one's made from an old plastic container that used to house my snowboard wax. I thought it would be useful because the lid slides on these little tracks:
The container is a little wide (for the length of my darts) so I filled some of this space by gluing halves of 1/2" CPVC tubing to either side. Also because of the dimensions, I had to add a rectangular piece of plastic near the bottom of the container that funnels the darts into the breech:
The container has some space to accommodate the barrel drilled out of the bottom - I hotglued the container to the barrel (mostly to the orange barrel stub of course; hotglue doesn't really stick to brass). Since the original concept was to use a clip-fed system, the gravity-fed clip can't be positioned perfectly upright (perpendicular to the floor) but rather at an angle.
It works fine though, so long as the weight of a section of CPVC used as a weight (pushing the darts downwards) stays in place. By some stroke of luck, the CPVC is just big enough to not fit all the way down the "funnel" so it does not interfere with the chambering of the last dart.
The clip holds 7 shots (plus one in the pipe):
The clip occasionally fails to chamber a dart (fires a blank) but simply re-cocking the blaster fixes that. Reloading the clip is not too difficult (well, at least while you're not moving) because the clip has a sliding door. Since the clip is attached to the orange barrel stub, the whole thing (with the brass breech) can rotate, though obviously when firing, the clip should be upright as possible.
I'm still trying to figure out a good spring-fed clip system (removable) but for now I guess this will have to do.
P.S. I fought the temptation to give it a name (like the "Bug Bad Bow") - to everyone's relief, I'm sure.
Second, this is only a slight modification of the original Bacon Bow
First the barrel: I used several pieces of 3 different sizes of brass to achieve the nesting/breech setup.
- Piece #1: I cut out the rectangular breech from approx 4" of 1/2" brass. This was permanently gooped to the original (orange) barrel stub.
- Piece #2: I also glued a 17/32" stub directly to the front disk of the plunger tube (after drilling out the centre, of course).
- Piece #3: An even shorter piece of 9/16" brass was nested over ths stub to form a nice solid series of nested brass to support Piece #1.
you can see Piece #2 at the base of the breech in Piece #1 (Piece #3 is in there but not visible):
- A fourth piece was about 9 inches of 9/16 tubing which acted as the barrel. This barrel slides back when the spring/plunger head is pulled back/cocked.
Unlike Piss Bacon's and Lukeinator's version though, I decided to take advantage of the existing (sliding) guide rod located above the plunger (below and forward of the built-in "scope").
I drilled out a hole at the front of the cavity that accommodated the sliding rod and added a length of PETG to extend the guide rod anteriorly (forward). I used some Crazy Glue and hotglue with a piece of the air restrictor from a NiteFinder to connect the PETG to the rod. Sorry, I only took AFTER pics. You can see some of this from above the rod cavity (the front "sight" was hacked off).
here's a view from above the cavity (notice you can see the PETG dimensions on the sticker and part of the NF air restrictor)
This PETG is the "arm" that moves the brass barrel backwards to close the breech. The PETG and barrel were linked using a a copper T coupler, some hose clamps and a piece of picture frame hanging material (metal) bent into a loop (looks a bit like the Omega in the greek alphabet). Oh yeah and some glue and a cable tie to secure the union of the coupler and the bent metal.
Here's the assembled blaster (breech closed):
(more in sec.....)
I disagree....partly. There are a few of us who seldom get to go to wars but for which modding is a creative outlet. Which, I think, means modding itself DOES serve a purpose even if it never gets used in a war. I do agree though, that the challenge is to mod something that is useful/cool/practical and that full realization/evaluation of a mod's utility can only be truly known after "battle-testing".
Pretty much, the only real point to modding is making something cool yet practical for a war. By modifying a blaster to the point of it reaching its peak in awesomeness/practicability, it needs to be battle tested. Otherwise, it won't have a real purpose.
I don't see anything wrong with some individuals being primarily "research and development" types as long as that new inventions are shared with the community. Then, hopefully, somebody else can test whether the mod is practical.
judging from the video and the pics, I believe the forward motion (just prior to re-cocking the spring) slides that thin purple "guide rod" forward, forcing air through the vinyl tubing, pushing all the darts in the clip down. As a result the dart closes to the front/bottom gets loaded into the barrel and... fire!
But, can you explain the clip system? Thanks!
Nice mod - I never would have thought of that. I may try this out - though my 3B has already used that space (the sliding rod) to create a breech/bolt system similar to the "4B" (inspired by Piss Bacon's and Lukeinator's mods). I may have to pick up another one.
A few questions:
1) how did you figure out how much vinyl tubing (air volume) was required to advance one dart?
2) how does the Y-junction between the clip and barrel work so smoothly? Is the barrel the same diameter as the clip?
3) what are the ranges like? Suffer at all compared to the clip-less? Presumably, this would still let you use long barrels, right?
Not to be a science geek but I just had a question regarding how you calculated the "power" of the blaster. You reported a number in Joules (a measure of work). If I recall, one equation for measuring this is:
The power or the joules is around 1.6 joules, yes I did some math.
work = force (in Newtons) x distance (in metres)
How did you calculate force (if this is the equation you used)? Cause if there's an easy way, this might be a cool metric to use when reporting ranges for my mods (I live in the city, where I don't have the required distance for outdoor range testing).
edit: it occurred to me that force = mass x acceleration. Mass can be measured with a pretty high precision electronic balance but I imagine acceleration must be even trickier to measure.
1. your original post is virtually incomprehensible
2. your idea of air restrictor modification is incorrect, as are your ideas regarding the effects of hotglue in the back of darts
3. your "old thread" defense is absolutely ridiculous
4. your post count is 55 (in about 20 days), so you shouldn't be talking about people's post counts
#1 and #2, I think most poeple could live with because they can be corrected.
#3 and #4 is why everyone is pissed off.
as looking like a ghetto-version of the N-strike Unity and I'm inclined to agree.
If you buy it and find otherwise, let me know.
the nice thing is that the yellow tube has a hole in the base that is of narrower diameter (so that the darts cannot be "sucked" backwards towards the plunger - though the tight fit would probably prevent it anyway). Another plus, is that the tube fits perfectly into a 1/2" CPVC coupler. It stays in place even without glue (I did anyway).
This barrel is currently being used on my MaxShot (below) and my ERTL FS1010 (not shown).
Again, no official range testing but I think it suffices to say that it works well. The only thing is that the brass can't be too long (e.g. the full 12") or its weight makes the cap/barrel somewhat crooked.
Nothing revolutionary but just some new fodder for the mod-idea mill.
*Sorry for the virtually non-existent write-up (I'm in a rush) but I think you guys can figure it out from the pics alone.
I cut out the trigger guard to make more room form my hand -tiny handle!
This is the barrel at full length.
This is the barrel retracted.
Again, because this is a muzzle-loaded blaster, I couldn't make the 9/16 piece very long so I only get anothr 2.5-3inches of extension. Not much, but it can't hurt. I can't do any official range testing (and my basement is in shambles) but it does seem to add a few extra feet. I'm thinking about using springs for my next nested brass/breech barrel.
to be continued (chap stick barrel) ...
[edit: I forgot to mention - I plugged the pump as usual - the general aspects of the mod was adapted from Cxwq's on the mod directory)]
I came up with a method for adding a little more barrel to my muzzle-loading blasters without slowing reload times. A 9/16 piece which retracts (via a spring) when loading and automatically slides forward when firing.
I added this to an SM750 I recently found at a local thrift shop:
I added some e-tape around the cpvc for a tight fit.
The spring was an air restrictor from an SM3K (I think)
I had to sand out some of the inner diameter of the orange ring in the blaster chassis.
to be continued (image limits)...
The blaster is really easy to mod but and has a HUGE plunger. However, the spring is weak and the toy is pretty expensive.
I'm wondering if that can apply to forums too. Sure, seeing countless repeats of pointless posts is annoying but (for a non-mod) member, it takes less time to read a stupid post than to reply to it. I'm sure most have started to figure out certain members who are less "productive" than others. I have. And, accordingly, I stop reading posts from these people. I guess I'm in agreement with Duxbarian; if we don't bother with stupid posts, then that's punishment enough. And the remedy is not in the hands of moderators but everyday members.
Here are a few to get you started:
Lanard also makes a bow (the Blast Bow):
Since you're a LOTR fan, I imagine you're also aware of the Uruk-Hai crossbow? It would be cool if you could do some cosmetic work on the BnA to make it look like Legolas'
EDIT: hey, I just realized that there is a pic and review of the bow n arrow on nerfworld (under "Reviews")
At around first-year university I started studying Japanese sword arts/ways (Kendo and Iaido) and kept up for about 4 years (Kendo - only 3 years Iai). I pawned most of the stuff I had for a Iai-to (a practice sword for Iai). These are typically alloy blades - can't be sharpened and a little flexible - but the look and feel are (so I'm told) very authentic. Because Iaido practice (the "way of drawing the sword") entails alot of use (swinging, not cutting), replicas pretty much break after a couple of weeks and their uneven balance makes for really sore wrists.
Anyway, I haven't kept up but I still keep the Iaito on display. The fittings are plain black and its got a pretty nice tsuba (the circular handguard) molded in a design that looks like a crane with spread wings. I also have a spare tsuba that is pretty plain but it was used by my (former) Sensei so I keep it around for sentimental reasons. I always told myself that "when" I got to a reasonable skill level I would use it - yeah right!
I also keep a folding (lockback) knife for my camping/hiking stuff. Its made by Cold Steel. It cost me an arm and a leg but its definitely the strongest/most reliable blade I've owned.
I have an old balisong (that's the filipino name for a butterfly knife). The handle is ox horn/brass but is coming apart. The blade is very strong but quite rusty. These are actually illegal in Canada but I only keep it at home.
Also I have two machetes. One I got when I was doing research in Trinidad (a Martindale brand). Everybody there (including old ladies) uses them as all-purpose gardening/farming tools. That one still comes with me to camping trips (its a very functional camp hatchet and campfire prod). Also found my dad's old "bolo" machete from the Philippines. The thing is so rusty that it looks like it was salvaged from the Titanic. Again, not used but kept for sentimental reasons.
That's it - Sorry, I don't have pictures handy.
And my two cents on the whole ninja stuff. Though (overly) glamourized by hollywood, there's not very much account of any ninjas and any particular prowess with the sword. They were mostly spies (notably for Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the wars preceding the last Shogunate) who probably had to do some fighting but probably with a whole mish-mash of different weapons (i.e. whatever was available). So I don't think there is very much evidence of what a real "ninja sword" should look like.
It looks like the position of the pump handle is quite far forward - does that make it difficult to pump? And what are the ranges?
By fluke, I stumbled upon two AT2Ks at Wal Mart in Toronto (in a clearance aisle - returns?)- sorry, both tanks are integrated into active guns. But if I recall correctly, the airtank in the BLUE SM3k is the same/similar as my AT2Ks. Again, I'm not sure whether you already have/can find an SM3k (I got mine at a thrift shop). Or even if you'd be willing to sacrifice a 3k.
Problem being I live in Canada. No AT2K's here.
He (?) was nice enough to give a vague description when I PMed him but there was never a write-up.
Anyway, thanks for the write-up, I'm gonna try the brass. Something's also gotta be done about the pump/cocking handle. I find it terribly uncomfortable.
I think there might be some confusion here. Many have described shotgun 'rounds' as requested in Dark's original message. But I believe Talio was responding to Dark's message header asking about "shotgun SHELLS". I guess Ompa's description of the spare barrels method is the closest thing but I have no expertise in this area.I thought it was just common knowledge in the community. I used to use them in short-range urban wars with any of my blasters using 1/2" adapters. It pretty much halves the range, but for a five-shot spread that ricochets to fill an alleyway, it's worth it.
Stefan Shotgun shells are merely theoretical, no one has ever done it and if they have, it didn't work well enough or was too complicated to be accepted by the community.
Toss in more weight to each Stefan bit for more range... Keep in mind you won't find most of your shotgun darts afterwards, so I'd recommend not dedicating weights to their manufacture.
Couldn't the orange Buzz Bee shotgun-esque shells be modded to fire "shot"? Though both the Double Shot and RFR have pretty poor air volume, so its effectiveness may be limited.
and, oh yeah - I believe you meant "Rapid Fire Rifle" not the "Fast Action Rifle"? (a la Boltsniper).
EDIT: I just tried adding the 9/16 brass barrel extension - no luck. The darts barely leave the barrel (I tried 12" and 8"). I should have known better anyway, the air delivery system (small plunger + airhose) is too wimpy to utilize the brass barrel extension.
I've also experimented with making darts from broken stock darts - probably most people have. I've got a few made using the hotglue/thumbtack method (adopted from somebody else's dart tips - was it Langley?). Although I wouldn't claim that these abruptly change direction as you suggest, I have noticed that they do carry alot farther than the original stock dart - but the accuracy is shit. I'm no physicist but my guess is that the modified darts are lighter (without the head), which contributes to slightly more distance (in lower-powered guns anyway)but the lack of weight also makes it more erratic in flight (more affected by air resistance/perturbations or imperfections in the dart). My NF has a bit of a recoil which tends to send shots a little high - I think this is effect becomes more apparent with these lighter darts.
Wow I just made a sorta stefan it is a stock dart with no head, hot glue, and a small metal tack in it. I put that in my nite finder (with about 15 small rubber bands) and actually pushed it in far (how does one push it in mor easily without using a ramrod?) It shot clear across my basement and actually started rising before it hit the oposite wall. I dont know why the darts it fires veer up after about 20 feet but they do. any advice?
But this is only conjecture.
In terms of advice, I'd say put a bit more weight on the tip and your darts will follow a straighter path (i.e. the momentum of the weighted tip will tend to overcome the other preturbing forces acting on the dart).
I don't think age has anything to do with it. I'm a 30 year old, married, PhD student with a social life who enjoys (and just discovered) nerf. And I'm not sure but I don't really recall many Nerf guns being around when I was 15. Maybe the bow n arrow.....
Does the Plasti-Dip pour well? I'm wondering whether the material could be applied to fbr with a half-inch (or so) drilled out of the centre. Dripping it in a hole (with disposaable pipettes?) in fbr might mean that the tip wouldn't be of larger diameter than the rest of the dart and, thus, the dart could be used in barrel-modded blasters. And presumably, it could still be used in combination with weights to get heavier stefans but with a slightly friendlier punch (compared to hotglue).
Thanks for the comments. I may take peoples' advice and relocate the pump. And I didn't plug the over-pressure valve in this one but I frequently swap it with an extra pump handle that is. That way, when I loan it to someone who might forget about over-pumping, I let them use the "safe" handle.
That very nice, it almost looks like the gun came that way. Did you remember to plug the overpressure release valve on the at2k?
I also saw off the barrel in the RFR. I'm not sure if you can completely replace the barrel as (if I recall correctly), the barrel and the chamber/ejection spring are all one piece (well, two halves). I imagine you could just jam some material down the existing barrel (depending on the diameter). Though I'm not convinced that a new barrel would make it any better as range is only mediocre and the accuracy depends alot on the dart/shell. Its worth trying though, I believe the halves of that barrel unscrew - so you could easily experiment.
That was the first thing i did, I removed the orange tip first but do you think the barrel can be replaced? with pvc I mean recently I found a whole Batch of industrial size PVC tubing i found it and now i will never run out but im still trying to figure out how to put in a new barrel.
Finding a way to keep the existing trigger was a bit of an issue - I'm not crazy about using a key-ring for a trigger. Plus given the location of the tank, a key-ring would be difficult to pull with the "trigger hand". I tried a few things (which resulted in a few unsightly holes in the casing) but eventually settled upon a "wheel" as a point of leverage for my trigger system. This is actually just 2 old rollerblade bearings sandwiching a rubber o-ring and held together by duct-tape and hotglue - I hope it holds. The wheel fits over an existing screw mount in the casing (which I trimmed and wrapped with a tiny bit of e-tape). I ran a piece of (picture frame-hanging) wire from the trigger to the pressure-release pin on the the tank.
I used one (ball-shaped) tip of the "bow" to make a handle for the bolt. I secured this to 2 adjustable ring/hose clamps with some spare screws. These already had holes to accommodate the screws. I put a small piece of craft foam between the clamps and the barrel to secure them to the barrel without warping the barrel from overtightening (because the screw heads are in contact with the outer diameter of the barrel).
I kept the ammo-holders on the side of the gun (had to cut out some plastic to allow it to be screwed back in its original postition. I also kept the scope (but moved it to the outside of the casing and secured it with velcro - so its removable). Yeah, like all scopes, not very useful but it looks cool (and was part of the original look).
Finished! Just had to lube up the barrel assembly.
How it works (in case you haven't already inferred...): using the bolt, the long barrel is drawn forward to open the breech. Dart goes in. Pull back the bolt to seal the barrel. A few pumps and ...fire. In the future, I may also try to add a SSPB in the casing below the barrel.
-pump handle - In retrospect, the pump handle being the stock/grip makes for a less than comfortable grip - and the grip was tiny to begin with. I considered installing it underneath the barrel (like the original 2k) but given the shape of the casing and the length of the pump hose, I stuck with the stock. Still alright for two-handed use).
- trigger - the trigger is a little hard to pull (depending on how pressurized the tank is) but I haven't thought of a better, smoother way. Yet. Given that, I might add some rubber tubing to the front edge of the trigger to make it a bit more comfortabel when pulling the trigger.
- range - I'm a little disappointed because I heard so many good things about singled at2ks. This one only gets about 50 feet (stefans). The airseals all seem fine. The barrel might be a little long (about 10 'effective' inches). I know my stefans suck - sometimes they don't leave the barrel, partly because the FBR is crooked and partly because they are not a great fit. I've tried using stefans made from broken stock darts and they seem to do much better. I'll have to tinker a bit more.
Anyway, still not my favourite in my arsenal but I'm happy that the gun is alive and I managed to overcome some technical difficulties. Only my second integration and my first breech so it was a learning experience. Any comments/advice is appreciated.
The thing sucked out of the box; probably < 15 feet. I first tried to do a CPVC barrel mod but even though the CPVC added about 10 feet to the range, the tiny plunger and length of hose from plunger to muzzle were clearly killing it. Since I had an AT2k hanging around (and though I know many seem to love the 2k, I personally am not a big fan), I figured that a transplant could turn the very cool-looking wookiee blaster into a usable one. The existing design also made me think that this might be a particularly good one to "breech".
here's what I started with (this pic is post-CPVC). The cosmetic "bow" is not in the pic.
Check out the internals. The brown pipe hides the airtubing. No wonder the thing has crappy range.
Just to give you an idea of the plunger size (or lack thereof)....
The first thing I did was pull the airtank from the AT2k. I got rid of the orange goo-meter and used some plumber's goop to connect the pump hose to the tank. I cut a small stub (~ 2") of 17/32 brass and used some e-tape and goop to secure it to the tank nozzle (I shaved about 3/4" off the nozzle). The forward facing end of the stub was filed down to facilitate smooth sliding of the breech/barrel (discussed further down)
Next, I cut out some space in the bowcaster's casing to make space for the airtank.
Same goes for the pump. I made space in the stock. Both were secured to the casing with goop.
to be continued... (maximums on images...)
rock on! I'm Filipino too. Mabuhay! I live in Canada though. what kind of blasters are available to you there?I live in the philippines. Seriously, you shouldn't be complaining.
OK I am Tired of people on this site that live in America I ENVY you guys so much all your stores are up to date with the finest firearms(nerf guns). Me I live in Toronto and I am tired of walking into a common toystore
(toys toys toys, Toys R us) And they don't have Jacksquat.
Is there anybody in Toronto or north york area that knows a good nerf retailer?
I realize that a design where the plunger and bolt are combined necessitates moving the breech/chamber and clip way forward (hence, the two-handle design). However, I've been toying with the idea of stacking the plunger tube and barrel one on top of the other. To minimize the length of the blaster while also minimizing 'dead' space between the plunger and chamber/breech, the plunger would have to be cocked by a forward motion.
Below, I've sketched out a VERY crude scheme. I envision a slide (in BLACK) being pushed forward (simultaneously cocking the spring) and moving the barrel (also in BLACK) forward and allowing a clip(BLUE)-fed dart (ORANGE) into the chamber. A stretch spring (not dEffeminateted) would pull the barrel and slide back to close the seal (by O-rings in GRAY) over the dart. I haven't figured out a very good trigger system yet. I like the way the NF catch mechanism works but don't know where I could put the catch. Obviously, the catch, trigger and plunger tube (RED) would require considerable structural support from the rest of the pistol chassis (PINK). By the way, the C-shaped piece (THIN BLACK line) connects the plunger tube and chamber. Such a piece, I plan to rip from an existing air-delivery system from a Buzz Bee RFR (but PVC coupler or even some nylon tubing could do the trick). Springs are shown in GREEN.
Not sure I will even have the time, materials, tools or SKILL to try to pull something like this off but I was thinking of using an NF plunger tube. Size of ammo would have to be pretty small (e.g. 1.5 inch micro stefans or shorter) to be able to even comfortably use the grip.
Clearly, this is just an idea but I wanted to know what you guys think (on theoretical grounds)
On a related note, and more along the lines of Ronster's original design, I was thinking about trying to mod one of my Buzz Bee RFRs (I bought a bunch for $3.50 each) because in a way, it seems 'pre-adapted' to a plunger/bolt combo and already uses a clip (+ shell system).
What I had in mind was replacing the existing bolt with a plunger tube and rigging up a new trigger/catch mechanism. Of course, the stock would be removed
and fitted with a pistol grip. The cocking lever would not be necessary as the plunger tube/bolt would be pulled back manually or with some type of slide on top. The clip and shell-ejection mechanism would still work (for the most part) as is. This would make it comparable in size (slightly longer and deeper) than a MAV or a maybe a PC (? I have yet to actually see one). I guess still a little bulky but the more direct delivery of air should mean improved range (again, I'd try to use an NF plunger in place of the bolt but this would require some dremelling to widen the bolt shaft - and an extension to the plunger shaft).
Again, only speculation at this point, but more in the ballpark of what I think I can actually build/mod.