Sam,

Eastern CT, and some of us are in Western RI, and one of us is from SE Mass.

What do you mean? You want to buy one?

I do not know: I'd have to consult the counsel, but the guns were 6.99, but were marked down to 4.99 when I went there. There were about 7, and I bought two, so there might be a couple left.

I've no idea what shipping costs are to wherever you're located, but i'd probably say $6.99+ shipping would be a decent price, as they were 6.99 before they were on sale.

I managed to get the rotation and catch to somehow work, but the whole front-of-plunger-has-almost-no-seal-with-the turret issue doomed the gun.

Even when stock the turret on the gun wiggles all over the place.
My updated end-clip modification seems to have fixed some of the more annoying interactions between the two parts. I took the turret completely apart after figuring out how to remove the end pieces and then I added a thread to the advancing mechanism. Then I used some washers, the removed axles spring, and a really long machine screw to reattach the turret without the front of the gun so that it rotates perfectly level with the mouth of the plunger.
Some kind of sealing around the plunger mouth might improve the configuration further. I'm going to experiment with some adhesive-backed felt to see if I can fix that problem without adding too much friction.

It's a very frustrating gun to say the least.

I've been very fond of your end-clip for the Maverick, and that machine screw fix seems to have worked very well.

Anyway, about the plunger seal, I find the LIGHTLY filing the holes on the back of the actual barrels enough to fit a very small o-ring in there has worked wonders.

It took two broken Mavs for me to figure out how to get the whole o-ring thing down, but it helped the performance a great deal. The hardest part is filing just enough to get the o-ring not to snag, but not too much, so that the o-ring is too far away.


I've always felt the Maverick is a gun wth a LOT of potential, it just has to be lovingly and carefully coaxed out of it. Like replacing the plunger, re-doing the plunger seal, putting reinforcement bolts throught the casing, modifying the hell out of the turret, and experimenting with different barrel materials.

But eventually, it's all payed off to give me my dream gun: a six shot revolver with insane ROF, pre-loadable interchangeable cylinders, and a range consistantly in the low to mid 60's. It's a helluva gun once you get it all down.


Sincereley,
Pat

Dear Forum-Goer,


This is my first posted modification. Generally, I do not post modifications, as there always seem to be ones that are so similar there's no point taking up space on the forums.

To gein with, I've never heard anyone talk about this gun: The Lanard Sonic Bazooka
If there are write-ups for it, I have never seem them, nor found any in my preliminary searches before I posted this topic. Sorry if one already exists.


Anyway, I went to Ocean State Job Lot yesterday, and to my surprise I found a hefty stock of Lanard products: about twenty LBBs, a dozen Max Shots, three or four First Shots, several Blowguns, and an odd contraption resembling a GyroStryke (I cannot recall the name). However, on the back of the shelf behind the LBBs were several small guns labeled 'Sonic Bazooka!', for 5 dollars a piece.

I called up HQ and requested permission to purchase and mod them with the Clan Funds, and they appropiated 13 dollars for me to buy and modify them.


I don't have a camera, so I'll describe it:

It is light blue, with a yellow handle and pump handle, a grey trigger, red accents on the front of the gun, and a silver area on the top back half of the gun.

It is 15 inches long

6 1/2 inches tall

3 inches wide

the handle is four inches tall

the pump range of motion is 3 1/4 inches

The pump handle is a miniaturized LBB handle

The trigger is upward-rotating, like a RF20, or Powerclip

The 'missles' are 6 inches long, and are yellow with red tips. They ahve small fins, and the missles 'whistle' much like the whistling arrows that Nerf had out for a while

The missles are loaded over the 3 inch barrel stub, much like the LBB

There are two yellow air restrictors in the first inch of the barrel

The barrel is a tiny bit more than 1/2 inch wide.

Just to give you an idea, the gun's dimensions are about the same as a Maverick plus a LBB pump handle.

The handle and trigger of the gun are halfway on the gun. That is to say, there is a 15 inch cylinder with a handle 7 1/2 inches in from either end




Ok, now that's over with and you have a very vauge idea of what it looks like, onto the gun.

The box proudly flaunted that 'this product is fitted with a safety relief valve!', yet the box also claimed that it could attain ranges of up to 60 feet with the stock missles. This was very promising, as 60 feet with very prominant air-restrictors I could see without even opening it is amazing.

I found that on the very rare occaison that the missle didn't go into a crazy death spiral straight to the ground, it attained an average distance of 57 feet (Taken from 20 shots, on flat astro-turf in a football field, fired from about 5 feet 10 inches off the ground, with little to no wind, and measured by a yard stick measuring the distance between the yard lines on the field).

However, the missles were incredibly inaccurate, and that standard Nerf arrows could not fit on it, due to the small opening in the casing surrounding the barrel post.

The very first thing I did to this gun was to cut off the first 4 inches of casing, so as to expose the barrel post. This did not impede the function of the gun, since there is a built in 'wall' that seperates the 'firing chamber' section from the internals.

The gun now could shoot Nerf Arrows, and got them around 60 feet also, though they were much more accurate.

However, I was, nor am I now, interested in the Missle/Arrow capability of this gun, so I shall now move on to the internals.


The Sonic Bazooka is very simple to open up: very large screw holes, with screws very similar to those found on Powerclips (large headed, short, stainless phillips heads). There are 9 screw on the main body, and 7 screws on the pump handle.

When the gun is opened, it is a very simple layout.

The pump handle is attached to a pump rod, which is very heavily lubed with some kind of organic oil-based lubricant (Lard). On the head of this rod, is a fairly heavy-duty o-ring, and three over-pressure release holes.

I plugged all three with hot-glue, making sure the glue was flush with the top of the holes, so the head was still flat.

The pump-rod on mine already had stress-cracks in it, and I had only fired it around three dozen times. I took some very thin strips of metal sheeting, and bent it to fit on the pump, without interfering with the pump guide (The thing that keeps it from falling out), and epoxied them on.

The tube itself is 1 inch wide by 3 3/4 inches long, meaning that at 8 pumps (When it gets very difficult to compress further) it holds ~ 74 cu inches of air.

Using my amazing abilities to determine barrel length, I decided that I'd use 8 inches of 17/32 brass (Somewhat longer than what I have on my SplitFire).

I cut off the first 1/4 inch of the barrel stub, and found I'd cut off one air restrictor, but that there was another, slightly larger one farther down. I ended up cutting the first 3/4 inch off the barrel.

I tried to nest the 17/32 in the barrel stub (which, coincidentally, fits stock Megas rather well), but it was much too loose. I rummaged around my supply of various tubes, and discovered some 1/2 inch thickwalled copper tube, that fit well around the 17/32, and fit decently in the barrel stub.

Just to be sure the air would go into the barrel, not around it, I took a random o-ring I had lying around, and epoxied it to the nested brass/copper, and it turned out to fit rather snugly, with no need for any other spacers, like electrical tape, or anything.

I then expoxied my barrel assembly into the barrel stub, and held it tightly in place in a vice for twenty minutes, to let it get a good hold while it continued to dry.

While it dried, I just went fiddling around with the trigger valve, and found that there was a leak around it: when the tank was pumped, it would hold air fine, but when the trigger was pulled, the valve the trigger engages would leak a fair amount of air, before the vavle in the barrel would engage.

I fixed this small leak with some epoxy that had not yet dried from when I epoxied the barrel in place.

Once this all set, and was in place, I tested out the the trigger vavle, and it worked beautifully.

As a final touch, just because I could, I placed all the internals back in, and filled the shell with some of this expanding foam insulation I had recently picked up.

It does not stick to the plastic in most guns, and when it dries, it is a perfect cast of all the internals. When I removed the two halves of the shell, it was a perfect mold of the inside. I took an exacto knife and cut this mold in half, and hot-glued a half to each side. It now acts as a stabilizer (which is good: the pump tube is sort of shaky and not well attached on these things), and sort of a muffler.


I went outside to test ranges, but it started snowing. Yes, snowing. On april fifth. In Rhode Island.... I didn't want to stay outside with no shirt or shoes on (I always mod half naked. I don't know why.) and only got to measure three shots, and they were all in the mid-90's. 97, 93, and 94, which averages to 94.6.

In my oppinion, being 10 feet short of a LBB for half the price and half the size, isn't too shabby.


As I said before, I've never seen these or read of these before, but that doesn't mean that this isn't a copy of someone elses write-up. Sorry if it is.

So, if you've got $5 and want two guns that rival a LBB for the same price, go for it.



Sincereley,
Pat

The hardest part for me was getting the NF plunger to catch, since the catch spring would not stay in place.

You're right. It won't stay in place if it's just pushing up against the top of the inside of the Mav's shell.

That's what all that sheet metal I epoxied in there is for. I dremeled out all the plastic that made the mav's original plunger system work, and replaced it with sheet metal tracks for the catch to slide it, among other things.

Basically, I rebuilt the inside of the shell for the NF plunger with sheet metal.

Falcon,

I didn't use sheet metal (Nolan and I are very reluctant to use sheet metal, as we have no power tools, and it takes quite a long time to size, cut, sand, file, pollish, and install securely), but I did have to make little 'tracts' as you call them, out of strips of plastic I cut out of various other projects over the years, reinforced with some high-strength metal-wire (Very thin, fishing-wire like stuff wrapped around the plastic, and epoxied in place). To hold the plunger itself in place, I ran several small bolts through the casing itself, like the two screws in the NiteFinder casing.

Once I finalized the design on our Night-Mavs, combined with the removable clip system I linked in my previous post, our Nite-Mavs are our favorite side-arms: amazing ROF, decent accuracy, and ranges just short of a modded NF (We're consistantly getting around 63 feet! Out of a Maverick!).

Again, I hope your design works out with your Nite-Mav, or Mav-Finder, or whatever you decide to call it.


Sincereley,
Pat

Pissbacon's http://nerfhaven.com...17&hl=bacon bow

Lukeinator's  http://nerfhaven.com...&hl=big bad bow

not to be a shameless self-promoter - actually, who am I kidding - I'm all about shameless self-promotion - but I've also posted a version of the Bacon Bow. Granted, the write up isn't as good as the original but its more along the lines of what Pat was describing (i.e. the "rear cocking" mechanism).

here's my version

I tryed searching for your version, as I had read the topic some while ago, but I , apperantly, am not very good at searching (I rarely find the topics I search for...)

I did not forget you, I simply couldn't find your mod. Sorry if that was insulting to you.

EDIT: I'm glad you've chosen to go with the BBB. Good luck with your modding.
And, yes, you find that when you approach people about old Nerf Guns they've never used in years, and they go online and realize they can scrape 50-70 dollars out of it, them become remarkably 'attached' and 'reminiscent' about the 'good ol' days' and how they could 'barely stand to part with it'. However, my clan just put up flyers around my school with pictures of Nerf Guns we wanted to buy, and our phone-number, and we got two DT3's, a Crossbow, three SuperMaxx 1000's, and one SuperMaxx 5000.



Sincereley,
Pat

I wish you luck with your endeavor to make one of my favorite sidearms.

The hardest part for me was getting the NF plunger to catch, since the catch spring would not stay in place.

The trigger problem was a one-time mistake: I made it too. All I did was carefully cut the triggers apart again (I didn't want to just snap them apart and risk breaking them), and experiment with different trigger placements.

Just make sure you don't over epoxy the triggers together, incase you have to re-place the trigger more than once.


If you get it completed, I'd suggest doing this mod to it, to increase reload times:
http://nerfhaven.com...272&hl=maverick

It's a good mod, to compliment a good gun.



Sincereley,
pat

Go to a local hardware store, either a big chain (lowes, ACE, Home Depot, etc) or some local Mom+Pop shop. Take your stefans with you. Now, look around for different materials.

Most people find that brass works well: 17/32 inch, or 9/16 inch are used for 1/2 FBR.

But, if you can find another material, go ahead and use it. Your darts should fit snug enough that they don't fall out, but loose enough to be blown out by lightly blowing into the tube.


For a NightFinder, I'd suggest take two inches of 17/32 inch brass, and put that two inches inside of 3 1/2 inches of 9/16 inch brass. Take that brass assembly, and nest it onto the end-cap of the plunger.


Here's some really easy mods:

http://www.nerfhq.co...view.php?p=7703

http://www.nerfhq.co...iew.php?p=26566 NOTE: Six inches of brass is too long: the longest I'd suggest is 4 1/2 inches,a nd no longer.


I hope that helped a bit.


Sincerely,
Pat

Personally, I dont understand why kids would want to use their 150'- 200' Titans in a war. You're just asking to hurt someone.

We don't. Except on people who insist on using 'armor' made out of styrofoam/cardboard: we don't like those kinds of people.

But, we've only used it in three wars: one to show people that we weren't kidding about the god-damned armor. The second was to humiliate the people who insist on 'losing' in Nerf wars: we wanted to show that we could always out perform them with this gun, and change their mind about camping behind a tree with a crossbow waiting for the new guys to walk by. The third was just because some local kids insisted that 'Those crazy guys up the street bring the big-ass gun'.


The main reason for modding it to be so powerful was that we wanted people to realize that long-range guns (like the Crossbow, LBB, SM5K, etc) are not 'all that', and too much range and too much accuracy make for a boring standoff with people standing just out of range, and waiting for someone else to move.


Anyway, we don't 'war' with it: but it is an effective deterrent against people using over-modded super-guns.



Sincereley,
Pat

I'm also pretty sure that if you really wanted to you could do a Bacon mod on any cocking gun if you really wanted to.

Indeed, you could do a 'Bacon Mod' on almost any cocking gun: as I have, but it is extraordinarily unweildy and very difficult to maintain Also, it requires either a knowledge of pulleys, or releaseable claps and springs.

But, the BBB is the easiest to breech modify and attach the breech slider to the cocking mech itself.

Since the BBB cocks by pulling the back half of the gun backwards, this allows for a unique possibility: have an operating rod attached to a breech cover. When the gun is pulled back, the slider is closed back over the hole in the barrel. When the gun is pushed forward in order to re-catch and re-cock the plunger tubes, the slider is pushed forward and a new dart either drops in from a magazine, or is hand-loaded. Either way, it's faster than the ramrod method.


And for the BBB, I'd suggest a spring replacement. The stock srping is heavy gauge steel, but it isn't actually very powerful. I'd suggest ACE or Home Depot for good springs. For the BBB, there's not much you can do to reinforce the plunger (unlike a Crossbow), as it is pretty beefy to begin with.


Pissbacon's http://nerfhaven.com...17&hl=bacon bow

Lukeinator's http://nerfhaven.com...&hl=big bad bow



And about the 'people wouldn't camp a whole game!' thing: yes they would.

Imagine, if you would, a childrens park, filled with jungle gyms, monkey bars, etc. Now imagine college students and full grown, bearded men in fatigues, dark hats, and sunglasses with Crossbows, SM1500s, SM5000s, MaxShots, LBBs, ArrowStorms, Titans, and singeled AT2Ks. Now imagine two kids in jeans and sneakers, around 13 or 14, one with a lightly modded Dart Tag Gun, one with a stock Maverick + stock NightFinder, playing nerf for the first time.

Imagine how much camping and 'n00b bashing' would go on, and imagine how many welts and bad experiences those kids would leave with, never again to pick up a Nerf gun, and probably telling all their friends about how stupid Nerf was.

Is this what we want Nerf to be?

Is this how we want to be viewed as a group?


I don't, and that's why I, personally, love the Maverick, and the Dart Tag Guns. They're small, relativley cheap guns that have gotten people into modding, and competitive Nerf, that encourage fast movement, and taking a risky shot. These guns encourage, what I like to think of, as the right kind of play: running and playing, NOT hiding and losing.

In fact, the Maverick got me into the whole online Nerf experience when I had trouble finishing my Nite-Mav (Nite finder plunger, Maverick Body).

That's what I want Nerf to be: a game of running, hiding, shooting, reloading, and doing is all over again. A fast paced combination of hide and go seek and tag, but with guns.

'losing' (which in my oppinion does not exist the way so many portray it) does have it's place on the battlefield: long range, well aimed shots will always have their place, but do we want the game turning into 'stay at least 120 feet away until he has to reload, then I'll take a 120 foot shot, and hope he doesn't hit me while I reload.'?




Sorry for ranting a bit...And the bad spelling/punctuation. Couldn't help it: I've been getting very little sleep working on all these SCAR-N's...


So, in conclusion, I like rapid fire, semi-accurate guns that encourage movement. I don't like guns, or for that matter people, who think range (Or 'power', or 'velocity' as some call it) is everything.



EDIT: Dark Shrimp wrote:
"I'm assuming you've never nerfed at a war becuase no one just camps as far away as possible. "

I take offense to that. I assume, then, that you've never been to a war where every single person but the {SF3G} had either a Crossbow, an SM5K, or a singeled AT2K. That's why I suggested we make our Super Titan, to beat them at their own game, once and for all, and get them to adopt different tactics.

It's worked fairly well: it's gotten our Titan banned from most of the wars we've been to. But, due to good lobbying on our part, it's also gotten SM5Ks, and singeled AT2Ks banned from several local wars.

And no, Dark Shrimp, I've never been to one of the huge SoCal NerfOuts: The biggest game I've ever been in was 20 vs 20 at our high-school tennis courts, where poeple had mostly stock, or very lightly modded guns (Which was, coincidentally, the most fun I've ever had in any competitive sport, including paintball and airsoft).

I hope I didn't sound mean in my reply. Sorry if that came across as rude.




Sincereley,
Pat

I personally prefer the BBB. However, if you are looking only on moddability and range, get the Crossbow, by all means.


The reason I posted is so that I can attempt to spread the word of not long-range guns: Shooting ridiculously far is NOT a helpful thing to the Nerf community. It turns into a game of who can get the most range out of their gun, and then sit behind a tree/box/wall the whole game, waiting for someone else to move.


I like the BBB because it gets decent ranges, but it can modified to be a desrtuctive device: the Bacon Bow. A single-stroke to cock, 8 shot weapon with decent range and accuracy.

If you can, I would highly advise getting a BBB and breeching it, and attaching the breech to the rear cocking mech. With a decent magazine setup, this guns rate of fire overcomes any doubts of it's 'moddability' or 'lack of range'.


This is not to say that the Crossbow, singled AT2K's, SM5Ks, and SM1500 have no palce on the battle field: Just be warned that if you get the Crossbow and do a good job modding it, other people with get long-range guns to compensate, causing you to want more range, causing them to want more, etc. Your wars will very possibly turn into a bunch of people with Titans, LBBs, Crossbows, AT2Ks, SM5Ks, etc.


Be very aware of the way you play with your Crossbow: range isn't everything, and by valuing range so much, we encourage people to diminish other aspects of a gun (Like singling an AT3K) in favor of range, which leads to a very boring game.


Here's a link to a better article: http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=3919

Help facilitate the movement for more action in Nerf! Sure, go out and buy a Crossbow if you want, but don't use a good gun as a crutch!

I helped make a Titan that shoots darts larger than megas well past the century mark, in order to defeat people who thought 'armor' was a good idea.

It's a great gun, but I don't use it like a crutch, picking off people at 100 feet. Also, we don't use 'armor'. Why? Because these things take the fun out of Nerf. They encourage people to sit down and wait. And waiting isn't a fun game.




So, anyway, if you want to have a Crossbow, go ahead! There's nothing wrong with the long-range guns: just the way they're used. Don't use it simply as a 'range machine' in order to pick off poor newbs who wanted to play a game and have some fun. It's a Nerf gun: it is used to paly Nerf. NOT to make the neighborhood kids never want to play Nerf again.

My clan uses a modified Matchstick round:
We take stock darts (Dart tag darts work well), cut the stem off of the stock dart-head, push it down into the hole, put in a weight, cover it with hotgule, and then do 3 dips in Plasti-Dip (One dip going over the sides of the dart, the other two are on the hotglue itself, mainly to reduce pain, but it also makes them more aerodynamic). To finish it off, the cut straws to about two and a half inches in length (a bit shorter than stock micros) and hotglue the straws in for support.

These darts work very well in high powered guns, as they have the weight of a stefan, the consistancy of stock darts, the rigidity of reinforced darts, the good seal of a Matchstick, the good aerodynamics of a Matchstick, and the lessened pain from a Matchstick.

These are the only darts my LBB will accept: it refuses to use other kinds of stefans.


Sincereley,
Pat

Boltsniper,


Nolan and I are proud to announce that we have an almost-entirley functioning SCAR-N after, collectivley, 50 hours! It's been a process, mostly consisting of Nolan and I yelling at each other in a dark basement while holding various pieces of PVC and sheet metal in our hands. It really has been a trial, but we have an almost-complete rifle now.

The only thing we have to work out is the ejector, and we just need to tirm off the burrs on the slide-handle so it doesn't impede the pumping action.

You seem to be a very busy man, and if you can't currently answer, fine, but we would greatly appreciate it if you could explain the action of the ejector, and possibly take several pictures of the ejector functioning.

We finally got the magazine well to work for us. IT looks nowhere near as good as yours, but it works: it's a plaster mold of our AR-15's mag well, with some spare parts we picked up at the local gun shop. It's pretty sloppy on the outside, but it works well.


I cannot judge how well the gun as a whole works, but it shoots very well one shell at a time (We have to unload the shells ourselves: they won't just fall out if you tilt the gun).

It is very accurate out to ~50 feet, and we're getting ranges in the high 80's.

Once we get the ejector working, we'll start mass-producing the other four so as to outfit our clan with a ready supply of, in our oppinion, the greatest Nerf plunger weapon ever.


Sincerley,
Pat

Yes, the DT-3 spring is a good replacement for a Crossbow spring, but I have never had my crossbow, DT-3, and Big Bad Bow open at the same time, so I don't know about using the DT-3 spring in the BBB. I suppose you could, but I generally try to buy better springs for my guns so 1) I know the exact push strenght 2) I know the condition of the spring, and 3) I know it will fit exactly the way I want.

If I were you, I'd take the BBB apart, take the plunger and spring out, and go shopping with the plunger and spring in your pocket. Make sure you tell someone at the front desk that you have a spring with you to compare sizes, and so they won't think you stole it.

Anyway, look around for springs, and find one that is the same diameter and length (Diameter is VERY important: length can be adjusted by a saw of some sort) but of a higher-gauge metal.

Then, buy the srping, go home, put it in, and close up the BBB: unlike the crossbow, the plunger on the BBB is very sturdy. You can reinforce it if you want, but I see no need unless you buy a disgustingly strong spring.


Sincereley,
Pat

Our clan has a Titan modded very similarly to the Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle. It is chambered in 1 inch foam (slightly bigger than megas), and it consistantly reaches 130 feet with fairly heavy, large-caliber darts.

If I were to simply cut two or three pieces of smaller brass sizes to fit in the existing barrel, I'm sure that with the correct darts it could get 200 feet chambered with micros.

The gun itself is fairly heavily modified: pump relocation, plugged release valve, firing-pin mod, several removable barrels (like, I believe, Bagheads 5 use Titan), Quad-Airtech 2000 integration, cheek-rest, sling, and removable magnification sight ( times 3 magnification, 30mm).

The gun itself is banned from many wars (Even ones we host ourselves), but on occasion we are allowed to use it with the rule that we may not engage at ranges under 80 feet.



But, as I said, our Titan does not get 200+ ranges, though I am sure it would if we were to re-chamber it.

As GeneralPrimevil said, I like modding because it's like foreplay to the war itself.

Sincerely,
Pat

I didn't vote. I didn't really find anything like me.



I am not particularly active on the forums. I mostly peruse the Homemades section on weekends, occaisonally popping into mod's to check up on the latest crazy new idea.

I'd put myself as The Innovator I was modding Nerf guns since before I had any access to sites like this, and Nerf HQ, and Nerf Online, etc. I believed myself to be a one-in-a-million genius, taking simple, cheap plastic guns and making them formidable weapons for my Clan to play with when we were out of money for paintball.

I truly believed myself to be unique, using brass, copper, PVC, and ingenuity to create amazingly powerful guns.



Then I got the internet.



And found Nerf Haven.


And realized that I wasn't very special at all. The only thing I had to my name that was truly 'unique' was my Nite-Mav with an internal box magazine, which turned out to have already been done by Starbuck.

Then again, I guess I was sort of a 'genius' in a way, seeing as I didn't just come here and look and copy what others did. It just turns out that my 'strokes of brilliance' and 'discoveries' were average and widely known facts among the west-coast Nerf community.



Pat

Excellent first mod: Very clean and coherent right-up combined with good quality, self-explanatory pictures.

This is a nifty ROF mod, but when combined with our Nite-Mav configuration (The same as Flacon's Mav-Finder, only our name is better), rear o-rings, and dremeled CPVC barells, this gun should get NF ranges (High 60's/low 70's) with a devastating rate of fire.


I am going to requisition one of our Nite-Mavs and try this mod right now! The only problems we've been having with them has been the poor reload times, as the large NF plunger and the subsequent dremmeling impeeds the clip-release button occaisonally causing difficult reload problems.

With this modification, the {SF3G}'s Mavericks will be the coolest sidearms ever! Nite-Finder ranges, removable and sturdy magazines, decently accurate, and killer great looks!

I'm looking forward to doing this mod later tonight.

Thanks for the inspiration.


Sincerely,
Pat

My clan's dartsmith usually takes the Dart Tag Refil Packs, and uses them to make stefans.

Materials:

Dart tag darts (Any number you want)

1/4" Slingshot bearings (As many as you have darts)

Scissors/knife (1)

Low-Temp Hot glue gun (1)

Low-temp hot glue sticks (For us, it's 1 stick for about every 15 darts)

Board with vertical nails in it (# of nails should be the same as # of darts)

Plasti-Dip (1 can, unless you're doing several hundred darts)

Rags/Newspaper (Enough to cover the space you are working in)

Stirrer for the plasti-dip (1)




Methods:

1) Take a dart, and gently peel away the tip from the foam, making sure not to tear the foam.

2) Cut the 'stem' off the rubber tip.

3) Re-insert the cut stem into the dart. Repeat steps 1-3 until you have no darts left.

4) Push the stem about 1/4" inside the dart, and insert one (1) slingshot bearing into to hole.

5) Using the low-temp glue gun, put a small drop of glue on the weight (Small being enough to fill the hole in the dart, but not cover the entire face of the dart).

6) Place the dart tail-end down over one of the nails on your board. Repeat steps 4-6 until you have no more darts.

7) Your darts should have cooled by now. Open the Plasti-Dip and insert a dart about 3/4" into the liquid. Pull the dart out on a five count (Count to five while pulling out the dart: on five, the dart should have exited the dip). Repeat this step until you have no darts left. When finished, make sure you re-cover the Plasti-Dip, as it will dry out otherwise.

8) Wait until the plasti-dip has hardened (Anywhere from ~20 minutes to 1 hour before the dip is hard enough to handle). Dip a dart in the plasti-dip just enough as to cover the hot-glued face of the dart without getting much on the sides. Hold the dart in for a five-count and remove it.

9) Place the dart tail-end onto a nail on your board. Repeat steps 8-9 until you have no darts left.

10) Leave the darts to dry again. Now repeat steps 8 and 9 (You should have dipped the darts a total of three times now; Once down along the sides, and twice only the tip).

11) After letting the darts dry for over two hours (This is important! The face of the darts must be very well dried!), dip just the flat face of the tail of the darts in the plasti-dip, so as to protect the tail of the darts from wear-and-tear.

12) Place the darts face-down, so the tail is facing up, and let the darts dry for two hours.



You are now the proud owner of some of the finest-flying darts I've ever used.

They take a while to make, but they are definatley worth it in high-power guns like the LBB, X-Bow, SM5K, SS2, Titan, etc.

Boltsniper,


I truly am sorry to have to ask all of these questions, and I thank you for your patience and civility with me.


Nolan and I would like to humbly request the dimensions of the trigger plate. Neither of us are very proficient with metal-working, as there generally is very little need for such skills in Nerf modification. Therefore, we would like to request the material, dimensions, and if possible, techniques used in the making of the trigger plate.


It probably is trivial enough that we could figure it out through trial and error, but Nolan and I are the kind of people who like to use per-existing information whenever possible. Also, our lack of experience working with metal and our fairly short time-frame encourage us even more to poke and probe for every bit of information we can scrounge.



We truly are sorry for inconveniencing you with all these questions. We are also very greatful for the well-thought-out, thorough, and timely responses on your part.


Again, thank you for your aid in our endeavour to produce what very well may be the finest Nerf blaster created to date.


Sincerely,

Pat & Nolan

Boltsniper,

I am sorry to have to ask another question.

But, I was wondering, where does the operating rod physically attach? Does it attach to the cam pin?

It looks far shorter than I imagined it would be from the descriptions of the internals (I finally was able to look at the pictures, since my computer was refusing to load them since yesterday).


Another (Sorry) question: if the magazine well is made from molded lexan (I believe you said lexan), how does the magazine release work? Did you make a hole in the magazine well after the Rapid Prototyper made it? Or did the prototyper make all the necessary holes and slots the first time around?


Again, sorry for all the questions, but I'm eager to make sure I fully understand this carbine's workings.

In fact, I've been so eager that my clan unanimously voted for Nolan (Official Tinkerer and Tester) and I (Official Modder and Fabricator) to produce five BS-8 SCAR-N's in the next three months. We've been allocated $270 up-front for parts and tools, with $100 in reserve, should we need it.
I doubt we'll need any extra tools (We have quite a collection, Nolan and I) and I probably have most of the PVC and brass needed, but I am worried about the fabrication of the magazine well.

We may attempt to make a plaster cast of a real magazine well and then pour some hardening agent into the cast... I'm not sure how expensive that would be, or how a plaster casting would affect the rifle we cast it from, or even if it would work.

If you have any suggestions for the fabrication of a magazine well for relativley cheap, they would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

Boltsniper,

thank you for that response.

I did not originally read about the grinding of the dummy round. That would explain a fair amount of my odd results.

Yes, I am familiar with the .50 Beowulf chambering of the AR-15, and was indeed wondering if you had simply done what they ahd done to accomodate the larger shells there.

Again, thanks for the info.


Sincereley,
Pat

Boltsniper,

excellent job on this latest creation. It truly is a joy and a privelage to be able to read about your mechanical innovations, and apply them to my own works. I would like to congratulate you on this newest carbine of yours: it seems to have exceedingly met all of the goals you set out to achieve.



However, the action of the ejector interests me greatly.


I am unable to watch the videos you have posted, as my computer refuses to work, and was wondering if you would be so kind as to explain the workings of the ejector in conjunction with the unique bolt system.

If it is not too much of a hassle, and time permitting, could you write out all the mechanical goings-on as the SCAR is primed and fired? (As in, the pump is pulled, moving the operating rod which moves the plunger through the bolt-carrier, compressing the spring until the aluminum on the plunger itself engages the plunger catch, locking the plunger assembly... etc)



Also: are the brass shells feeding niceley out of your AR-15 magazine?
You stated that at the current time you were in the possession of one shell only, but as my reply comes a day after your original posting, I was curious as to whether or not you had managed to obtain more shells and were able to fiddle and experiment with the feeding and ejecting of several shells in succession.

I tried to replicate your setup, and found that the brass shells seemed to fit very nicely into a standard magazine. However, upon my attempt to extricate the shells, I had quite a difficulty getting them to feed smoothly. After the same result after a thorough cleaning and oiling of the magazine, I began to wonder.

What brand of brass did you use? Was it sanded or filed at all? What brand magazine did you use? When was this magazine made? Did you Have to modify the magazine at all (such as filing of parts, a different spring, etc)?


I do apologize if this post is too long, or if I have asked too much at once.



Sincerely,

Pat

I just finished (I still have hot-glue drying on my pants) my own version of Starbuck's Mountain Rifle.

I used one inch FBR to make the ammuntion. They're basically 3 inch long giant 1105's (Matchstick's), and they perform exceedingly well in my Titan.

However, I find that Dart Tag darts, cut down a bit, and turned into 1105's have, by far, the best performance of any of the ammunition I've ever used (I've used every kind of Nerf and Larami ammo ever. Even the illusive Missle.).

I didnt like pumping the Titan either. that's why I just took a piece of fabric and made a loop on the back of the Titan's pump.

Just slip your arm through the loop of fabric, and the pump will stay 'attached' in a way to your shoulder.

Then, you can pump just by moving your hand (that is holding the gun) forward and back, thus moving the pump, since the pump is secured to your arm.

I voted other, simply because many of my guns are integrations, so they count as an 'other'. Like my SSII+AT2K. My Firefly+AT2K. My NF+SSPB. Also, the BNA is my most powerful gun, and it is technically spring, but it isnt manual cock like most 'springs'.

Pump up the action with the NERF DART TAG MAGSTRIKE blaster, the first NERF rapid fire blaster with a clip reloading system!


The NERF N-STRIKE LONGSHOT CS-6... And, with an awesome reloading clip system, refilling your blaster has never been faster.

Hmm... the more I read this and the more that I think about it (I know speculation isn't good)...

It sounds like the magazine system uses stripper clips sorta' like my SuperMaxx 1000 (seen here). They call them reloading clips implying they're used for reload only and not as a functioning part of the gun.

The Powerclip used a clip that was a fuctioning part of the gun, but was not first to use a clip. The Sawtooth used the clip system and its clips were functioning pieces of the gun. It says the Magstrike is the first with "clip reloading system" which sounds like stripper clips.

I am also thinkng very much along the lines of the Sawtooth and Electric Eel. Like you said, it says 'reloading clips' which implies the clips are used for reloading. The Power Clip's clip is internal and it is not used to relaod: it is the thing that must be relaoded. So, it sounds to me like these clips are indeed stripper clips like your SuperMaxx 1000, and my Nite-Mav.

However, this is all speculation based on what could be nothing more than a case of poor phrasing.




Anyway, the Magstrike will almost certainly be a very good gun (If not at first, it will be when we all get our hands on it ).

However, I am very curious as to the specifics of the CS-6.

It seems to be very reminiscent of the old CyberStryke DT3, which, when modded right, was very, very good.

And this, again, is speculation, but I just had a horrible thought. Instead of having the barrel straight out of the front, or level with the way you hold it, do you think Nerf would put the barrel sticking out at a 45 degree angle, so as to increase stock range without making it overly powerful, but making it impossible to use?


I would hate that...

Here's my inernal box magazine on a SuperMaxx1000:
T-26 Carbine

Here's my clip fed anti-personnel rifle:
Mountain Rifle

Not to derail the thread, but:

I love the design of your Mountain Rifle. Nolan (A member of the {SF3G} clan)attempted an armor-defeating rifle after one of my neighbors attended a local war wearing styrofoam armor.

The cabinet voted down his request for a Titan, but allocated an Air tech 3000 for the job. After several days he presented his attemp at an anti-armor rifle.

It was basically a standard singled AT3K (Overpressure plug, etc) using a very large caliber. I'm not sure, but I believe it was chambered with 1 and 1/2 inch foam backer rod.

The darts were 2 inch long Matchstick Stefans, weighted with a short wood-screw.


The rifle was fairly formidable, but no-where near as powerful or fast as Nolan had hoped. However, it serverd its purpose: No one has since attended one of our wars wearing any armor (Other than eye-protection, which is perfectly respectable.)



And as always, I love your T-26 Carbine. Even if it was before my mangled Nite-Mav.

I did this about 30 minutes after initial firing and subsequent opening of my Maverick.

My local hardware store has a disugtingly large selection of O-Rings, and I bought some very, very thin O-Rings. They fit perfectly; the turret rotates, and the seal is excellent.

Yes, they get dusty, and have to be lubed frequently, and occasionally replaced, but I found it to be a worthwhile investment.

I did this to my Nite-Mav, and it coaxed 12 more feet out of it.


Until I read this, I didn't realize that everyone didn't try this.

I personally find the Corssfire to be a very well put together little gun. Considering the size of it, the stock performance is almost more than you could expect.

The ergonomics of this guna re also amazing: The double trigger makes it one of my most accurate sidearms, simply because it is very intuitive to aim. If you put your trigger and middle finder on the trigger, it doesn't seem that great, BUT, if you put your middle and ring finger on the trigger, and place your index finger on the side of the casing in-line with the barrel, you can use your hand-eye coordination to litterally 'point-and-shoot'.

I wouldn't say that the Crossfire is my new favorite sidearm (LnL was my first Nerf gun), but it certainly is a gun I will be tinkering with in the coming days.