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#66359 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 10:22 PM in Modifications

Nice integretion but the pump should be where the barrelis of the sm1500, and the barrel should come out the top hole where the original Xbow's barrel was.

Uhh, then where would the crossbow's barrel be??

Here's a pic of my LBB, though I already posted the pic in some other thread:
Posted Image



#67665 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 November 2005 - 10:59 PM in Modifications

I was in a PetCo yesterday and I did find PETG, but it was the same 3/4". I believe that I also have a Petcetra around somewhere, so when I'm over in that direction, I'll check it out.

As far as brass goes, I'd say that if you're new and you have an Ace nearby, that should be the first place you check. Of three Ace stores, I've found brass at all three. That doesn't mean that all Ace's carry it, but it does mean that it's worth checking. Be aware that brass is a relatively uncommon item, so you may have to search the store yourself.

I have never seen brass at Lowes. I haven't been to more than one Lowe's though.



#65875 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 10:08 PM in Homemades

Thanks, I'll have to try that.



#65859 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 07:45 PM in Homemades

I don't think that a clip in the handle is too close...if it was possible and bolt did it, I would start a new religion that worshipped him. The FAR is the most ingenious design for a nerf gun, period. This thing is completely awesome, and not all that complicated to build. And, because of it, I rented and watched Equilibrium.

That sounds like a good price for the kit, though I already have enough of the parts lying around that it will be cheaper to just buy the rest of them. That said, I'm probably going to wind up with enough extra material to make a second one, if I can even get the first one to work.

My first big question with the construction is about cutting the 1" PVC needed for the 'Frame'. Here's a pic in case that wasn't clear:
Posted Image
Anyway, in the past when I've needed to cut PVC crosswise like that, I've done it with a Hacksaw, which not only makes for bad cuts but it usually takes me 2 or 3 tries to get one cut straight enough to use. How did you cut that piece? I looked at some PVC shears in Home Depot, but the ones I saw looked like they'd only cut lengthwise...I'm assuming that's how all PVC shears work?

Also, a list of the Dremel bits used would be extremely helpful (especially about cutting that aluminum), but I'm assuming that that will be in the write-up.



#65939 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 04:55 PM in Homemades

The $7 dollar shipping charge is due to it being ups, if you order more than one the shipping stays the same.

True. If I order online I'm getting at least three...it'd be a waste not to, at that shipping price.



#65978 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 10:39 PM in Homemades

Damn, how much would you say of the work requires dremeling? Like is it pretty much impossible to make one with a kit without a dremel?

Well, I'm not Boltsniper, but when I take a look at that trigger plate I don't see any way that it could be made without a dremel...in fact, I'm a little scared about how I'm going to do it WITH a dremel, but Ace's aluminum comes in big sheets, so I'll have some time to practice with it once there are some exact dimensions posted. Here's Bolt's pic:
Posted Image

$5 sounds like a very reasonable price for shipping.

EDIT: oops...Bolt beat me to the answer; sorry about that.



#66515 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 24 October 2005 - 05:52 PM in Homemades

post was full of information that turned out to be incorrect...skip down a few posts and read Bolt's own post.



#65410 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 09 October 2005 - 09:39 PM in Homemades

Thanks for clearing that up. Looks like it won't cost an arm and a leg, either.



#65937 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 04:21 PM in Homemades

Nice image there. I guess the big obstacle I still see in developing a pistol with the clip housed in the grip is the trigger mechanism....for the trigger mechanism to contact the plunger, I believe that there would have to be some wire or something that would pass right through the clip.

Does $20 include shipping? The shipping on just the spring for a lot of the sites I've seen seems to be in the $7 range, so your deal is looking better and better. I'm gonna check around some local places that sell guns/parts, see if they can help me out.

And, apologies in advance for being an ass, but Bolt, on your sig, I believe you mean 'Achtung'...I'm a German speaker and those things get on me after a while.



#65400 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 09 October 2005 - 06:32 PM in Homemades

I already have most of the required stuff for building one of these, might have to get some new Dremel bits though. What I'm worried about is the spring. Will I be able to find a spring in the hardware store that will work for this project once the writeup is done? Is it possible to buy an AR15 spring online for this project, or is that illegal because it's a piece of a real rifle (I don't own any real firearms)?



#65133 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 October 2005 - 08:31 PM in Homemades

You really deserve about 200 cookies for this one, boltsniper. I'm really looking forward to the schematic, the same kind of thing you did for the Excel file for the FAR. I really like how you've mapped out everything you've done; gives everyone a lot of ideas. I'm a little scared about the aluminum part, but maybe I won't be after the writeup.



#63351 Bolt Action Magazine Fed Air Pressure Nerf

Posted by BloodMoon on 08 September 2005 - 08:18 PM in Homemades

First off, great job! That looks awesome!

As a newbie looking at your ranges, that looks like a VERY powerful weapon. How did you test the ranges? Was that a level shot, and was there any dart skip? Does it hurt to get shot from a closer range (say 30')?

Also, do you use all the pressure up in one shot, or does it only let out a little bit of pressure at a time, like in Osiris' homemade?



#63447 Bolt Action Magazine Fed Air Pressure Nerf

Posted by BloodMoon on 10 September 2005 - 09:02 PM in Homemades

Could you say a little bit more about how you made the PVC pump you mentioned? Also, supposing that a pump on an existing nerf gun (say an AirTech 3000) broke, would it be possible to use a PVC pump like the one you made as a replacement?



#71829 Crossfire Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 January 2006 - 09:35 PM in Modifications

I saw a crossfire at TRU today...and I was a little pissed because (unless I'm completely wrong) you can't see the gun, only the box...the actual gun is hidden from view. That's not horribly bad, but I certainly didn't expect it to be that small.

Congratulations on your mod...those are some pretty good ranges. Makes me think that I should try some 17/32" brass with some nitefinders.

Based on your experience with this gun, how workable do you think a spring replacement would be? I have no clue if it would actually work, but I now have 2 'new' nitefinder springs, which at first glance look to be stronger than the spring in your pictures. But I've never replaced a spring on a top-cocking gun, so someone will have to tell me if it's even possible.



#67658 Nf Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 November 2005 - 10:31 PM in Modifications

Not to hijack your thread, but could some one fill me on on the difference between the 'old' NF's and the EX-3's? I'm considering bying more NF's, and I'm wondering because I have a few spare old NF parts that I could probably use in an EX-3 (spring, plunger head).

It's a solid mod. It's a lot like what I wound up doing for my very first mod. What I can tell you about ranges on the NF CPVC mod is that you'll get very different results depending on your stefans.

Thanks, Uncle Hammer. I guess I'll also be buying a whole bunch of 'old' NF's if there are still any lying around on shelves somewheres.



#66095 Nf Coupler Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:45 PM in Modifications

I don't know about CPVC, because I've actually never bought CPVC couplers. But as far as all kinds of PVC goes, the couplings should be tight. VERY tight. So something sounds wrong here. You might want to make sure you got the right couplers, because I have all kinds of different brands of couplers for 1/2" PVC (for example) and they all fit the same.

That's a very solid mod. It would be nice to have a pic of the finished product though...for some reason, that just makes it complete in my mind. I have a CPVC barreled NF that gets no where near those ranges, but I think that it's because my Stefans are a bad fit for CPVC...I've since then stopped using it.



#71516 Home Made Crossbow?

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 January 2006 - 11:18 PM in Homemades

On the Nerf crossbow idea, I don't think it's too hard. Boltsniper has proved that you can make a homemade springer (the GNS). You can always buy a spring just as heavy as the real nerf Crossbow's. So it shouldn't be too hard. My current quest is seeing how well some reinforced nitefinders hold up with some heavy springs I saw at the hardware store...I'm almost positive that something will snap, and whatever goes first is what I will want to focus on with the complete homemade version.

I have made a crossbow for padded wepons combet before, it has a #25 draw and shoots real bolts that have been padded. Are you wanting to do something like that? If so I can help you out.

I know it's a little off-topic, but I've also been thinking about that. For my game, I'm just using padded homemade arrows on a 30-draw fiberglass bow. If you have a picture of your crossbow I'd love to see it.



#71619 Home Made Crossbow?

Posted by BloodMoon on 24 January 2006 - 09:30 PM in Homemades

I have personally seen these in action, and they are pretty good. He also makes a double crossbow of similar design.

Adam

I found that page a few times googling LARP crossbows (hoping to find homemade crossbow pics or a how-to)...while I've heard from a friend who's seen one that they're very good, I'm still not wanting to pay 130$ for one. For those out there who LARP, it looks like this:
Longsword+Wooden Shield+Leather Armor/Garb= no more than 25$ if you make the stuff yourself (I've made plenty)
OR
Crossbow= $130
LARPing is a 'cheaper' hobby, like nerfing, so paying for a crossbow is kind of a leap (though, if you're in a game that uses more authentic armor, you might be shelling out 250$ for chainmail and stuffs).

As for a homemade crossbow, I think that it would cost only ~10-20$ if you are willing to sacrifice the 'realistic' look for a surgical-tubing-and-PVC incarnation with some brown duct tape. So if you have something like that, or ideas, just PM me.

Again, Admins, I'm not sure about this tangent, especially on a nerfing board. So if you have any problems, speak up, I don't mean to cause trouble.



#65791 Problems With My Nerf Guns

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 October 2005 - 06:44 PM in General Nerf

Stick to stock darts for the scout. My scout will shoot a stock dart like 25 feet where a stefan wont even leave the barrell.

Sorry I didn't mention that. You're absolutely right.

For more info, go here:
Ompa's Scout Mod



#65732 Problems With My Nerf Guns

Posted by BloodMoon on 13 October 2005 - 10:38 PM in General Nerf

Well, as far as your IX-3 and your NiteFinder, you may have easily fixed problems, so if you open up the gun and look around, the solution might be obvious. You never know.

As far as your dart situation, you might want to look into Stefans. I use them because they allow you to build guns that don't muzzle load, and because they cost somewhere between 1 and 2 cents each to make. Check out this thread here.



#63854 Your Armory

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 September 2005 - 06:10 PM in General Nerf

That doesn't beat my one and only Titan AS-V1

If it means something to you, I also have a SuperMaxx 3000, but it's pretty badly screwed up. I'm hoping to hunt down some of the Lanard guns, but so far I've only seen First Shot's, and I'd rather have more NF's than First Shot's.

EDIT: Apologies for getting off-topic. What I more meant to say is that I'd rather have a Blast Bazooka or better yet a Max Shot. Both, I believe, fire much larger projectiles than the First Shot, so I'm assuming that they'll get better range for the one shot that they're good for. I like NiteFinder's better because they are a little bit more compact, after you've taken off the laser casing and ammo holders, and they cost about the same.



#63804 Your Armory

Posted by BloodMoon on 17 September 2005 - 11:50 PM in General Nerf

Saying that an At3k rotation mechenism is a little more complicated than a Maverick's is an understatement.

My arsenal (sad):
2xNiteFinder
2xAt3k



#68808 At2k Quad Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 04 December 2005 - 11:57 PM in Modifications

Well, I have to say that it looks like the barrels could bend or fall off at any moment, but maybe your hot glue is better than mine. I think that I would use epoxy instead, and possibly put a pole of something in the middle just to make sure that they are aligned.

Just one question that I've never really asked. What do you do to get the darts into the back of the barrels? Do you ramrod, or is the fit loose enough that you can just blow them down?



#69976 First Gun?

Posted by BloodMoon on 27 December 2005 - 05:59 PM in General Nerf

Supermaxx 2500: The neighbors down the road had parties occasionally, and all of us kids needed something to do. I nerfed quite a bit before I actually bought the gun...another neighborhood kid had quite a large arsenal, from which I used the Ratchet Blast, Eagle Eye, and Bow 'n Arrow.



#69895 Dart Tag Mod? Yes I Searched

Posted by BloodMoon on 26 December 2005 - 07:03 PM in Modifications

Put a different way, the 'method' of cocking is not limited. The force is determined by the spring itself, not the mechanism. Admittedly, there are limitations based on the strength of the plastic in the cocking mechanism, but you can always try to reinforce.

Maybe I'm just better at searching (don't know how that's possible, you just type in what you're looking for), but I did find this: Flamebo's Mod



#64540 Splitfire Tactical

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 September 2005 - 09:18 PM in Modifications

I think that overall, it looks very nice. I like the black paint in contrast with the brass-colored barrels and pump.

I'm a fan of black weapons...I think that it looks better than some of the flourescent colors that guns come in, though most of the time I'd just rather leave the default color on. And, in truth, I'm a lazy painter; cover what you don't want painted with masking tape, and then paint on a coat of Krylon Fusion spraypaint, the color of your choice. While black paint could be an issue at a public park, I generally nerf at other people's houses, so it's not an issue.



#66671 Boltsniper Gns Pistol For Sale

Posted by BloodMoon on 27 October 2005 - 09:08 PM in Homemades

I took a break from it and brainstormed a new homemade that's gonna kick ass.

Darn...my GNS will be obsolete before I even get the rest of the parts to build it.

Not only does the GNS look awesome, the ranges are great, with an edge over Nerf's current-generation pistols.

Can't wait to see schmatics for the GNS parts as well as pics of the new gun. I can tell you that in my community alone, there are plenty of people hanging on every word you post, Boltsniper.



#63794 Internals Of Ertl Fs-1010

Posted by BloodMoon on 17 September 2005 - 07:30 PM in Modifications

Well, it seems like you're paying an aweful lot of money for a nice looking case and a big spring. But if someone can get some good ranges, I'll shut up and go sit in the corner.



#68541 Strongest Adhesive

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 November 2005 - 08:24 PM in Modifications

For that kind of stuff, I use a lot of E6000, but that's mostly because I get tons of it from where I work, not because it's the best. Any superglue based on cyanoacrylate works amazingly well on plastic/PVC materials.



#65794 Maverick

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 October 2005 - 06:54 PM in Modifications

You need to be more specific. First of all, if you didn't take the gun apart and just stuck a new barrel on the end of it right on the end of the orange cap as marked below, I can see why that wouldn't work.
Posted Image

If the thing is airtight, all of your air is being lost between where the revolver portion ends and when your barrel begins.

Or maybe I'm completely lost as to what you're trying to say.

Anyway, if you're keeping your Maverick stock, you're accuracy is probably the least of your concerns. If you're looking for a good Mav mod, I'd check out Baghead's mod right here.



#64541 Youre Computer Specs

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 September 2005 - 09:29 PM in Off Topic

Intel P4 3.2 gHz
eVGA nVidia 6800 GT
1 GB DDR400 RAM
Intel D865PERL MoBo
120 GB, 7200 RPM IDE Hard Drive
Windows XP Pro + SP1

No, I don't have a reason for not going to SP2...but the earlier version of SP2 annoyed me, and I never really thought of checking back to see what's changed. I have a PII computer running Red Hat 9 Linux, but that really shouldn't count.



#67163 Bolts New Pistol

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 November 2005 - 05:46 PM in General Nerf

Well, in that case, I see no reason why it wouldn't work. You're combining a proven clip design with a working pistol. If the aesthetic work is as clean as it is on Boltsniper's homemades, it may well turn out to be the best looking nerf weapon that I have ever seen.



#67168 Bolts New Pistol

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 November 2005 - 07:59 PM in General Nerf

Well, I suppose that you could do it as pictured supposing that the bolt and the barrel were the same piece, as in a breech. You'd just have to pull the barrel out and push it back in to load the next dart. Not as nice as a breech handle, but you could build it more along the perportions pictured.



#65861 Firefly Not A Pistol?

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 08:03 PM in General Nerf

Well, I think that our 'classification' is ROF. That's in my opinion the biggest quality a nerf gun has. Single-shot, semi-auto, full-auto or something like that. Though since I've started modding, bolt-action is also a pretty good term to use.

Quick Fact: If I remember correctly, the P90 and the Five-seveN have the same ammunition because they're munufactured by the same company, Fabrique Nationale. Which is why Five-seveN has the wierd capitolizations.



#66091 Barrels

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:37 PM in Modifications

Boltsniper had some of the math in his FAR writeup:

I did some experimentation to determine what would be the optimal barrel length for a given plunger size.  The goal was to find the barrel length for which the dart would exit the barrel as the plunger reaches the end of the plunger tube.  I started off by matching the volume of the plunger to the volume of the barrel.  I knew that this was going to produce too long a barrel but it was a good place to start.  This would assume that the air inside the plunger and barrel is incompressible and that there are no leaks.  In the real world this is not the case.  I reduced the barrel length until I had found the length at which the dart was leaving the barrel as the plunger was reaching its stop, coinciding with the maximum attainable range.  Experimentally the plunger volume seems to be about 4 times that of the barrel.  The relation for barrel to plunger size can be summed up in the following equation,
Posted Image
where rb is the barrel radius, rp is the plunger radius, lb is the barrel length, and lp is the plunger length.  For Nerf applications the barrel is almost always 1/2" PVC or CPVC.  rb can then be set as a constant at 0.25" and removed from the equation.  Since we are trying to solve for the barrel length with a given plunger size, the equation can be rearranged and simplified to:
Posted Image
This simple equation makes it easy to roughly but quickly size a barrel to a given plunger.  The equation could also be used to size a plunger for a given length barrel.  This equation is based on experimental data and is not perfect.  Four is not the golden number.  This produces the optimal barrel length for the situation I was testing.  The type of dart, dart-barrel friction, and total system volume will likely effect the optimal ratio.  Nevertheless, the above equation can be used as a starting point.


That's the most technical approach to it that I can remember seeing. When determining barrel sizes for myself, I just figure the more powerful the gun, the longer the barrel. I start at 12" and just work down from there until I get a size that works. Most 'rifle' guns that I have use 1/2" PVC couplers, so I already have some barrels lying around that I can try.



#71147 Chronicle Of An F.a.r.

Posted by BloodMoon on 17 January 2006 - 10:54 PM in Homemades

Cool! I'm also just starting my own FAR, though I haven't gotten past the point of no return (as in, I'm not sure right now that I'll get from start to finish with it...if you've ever started a really extensive project, you know the feeling). In my opinion, the more info out there on the FAR, the better. I'm still a little curious about how the mag is held in, as well as how to build the ejector part of the bolt, so I'm really looking forward to your ideas. Sometimes it seems like Boltsniper is just so many miles ahead of me that the FAR looks impossible, so seeing someone more down-to-earth really helps.

I look forward to future entries!

Also, I'm a little confused about this pic you posted:
Posted Image
I kind of see the part that holds back (like you said)...but isn't that just a 'hole' cut out of the Upper Reciever? And isn't the Upper Reciever 27 inches long? Looks a little short...could you explain?



#71268 Chronicle Of An F.a.r.

Posted by BloodMoon on 19 January 2006 - 07:27 PM in Homemades

This is the back section of the Upper reciever. There is a front section connected with the T-coupler also. Or I will plastic Epoxy another end to it, for easier cutting and dremeling.

In mine, I'm boring out the two T-couplers to fit over one 27" segment of PVC, and then dremeling out the slots after I've slid the couplers over. I never thought to do it the other way, but sounds good.

As far as the realistic paint jobs, I still like the black color scheme used in all of boltsniper's weapons (that I know of). If you call that a color scheme. I use Krylon Fusion black on most of my weapons. Keep in mind that all of my wars are on private property away from the public, hundreds of feet from any roads even.



#66353 Home Made Bolt Action

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 09:52 PM in Homemades

Well, I don't live in Canada, never mind Toronto, so I can't help you there. I get my brass at Ace Hardware for about $3.25 a foot (9/16 OD), but I hear that you can order online, and it may be cheaper. In case you haven't heard enough about brass, the final thing I can say is that Brass comes in all sizes down to 1/32 of an inch. It's VERY helpful to walk into Ace with a dart or some material and just check all the sizes of brass until you get to the one that fits.

Also, as a new person to Homemades (who is trying to get all the information he can), I'd like to see a list of the other materials you'll be using to make your bolt-action rifle.



#66360 Favorite Energy Drink?

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 10:25 PM in Off Topic

I don't really go for energy drinks, but in place of that I go through a crapload of Coffee and Green Tea.

Redbull...ugh. It's just aweful.



#66428 Nf Barrels?

Posted by BloodMoon on 23 October 2005 - 04:00 PM in Modifications

When I did my second NF, brass inside 9/16" PVC, I actually did remove that whole piece and the thing worked quite well.

Just to sum it up though, make sure you have a Brass, PETG, Crayola, or CPVC barrel for the 1/2" FBR that you are going to buy.