BloodMoon's Content

#65979 At2k Stock

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 10:49 PM in Modifications

I can't say that in my experience stocks make a gun much more accurate. But they feel really damn good. So in my opinion, what you should do is just make a stock that feels good to you, not to some other random person.

#66027 Gun Idea

Posted by BloodMoon on 17 October 2005 - 06:55 PM in Modifications

I don't think that it's a very logical idea...either the gun will be large and hard to handle, or the priming time would take a hit. Both ways, I'd rather have one good shot than two hard-to-load ones. If you want to have a shotgun like that, I suppose you could load two stefans with a nested barrel, but that's really not what you're suggesting.

In general, I don't think it's a good idea to start a new topic when you don't really care about the results (you're not even going to TRY to build one).

#66089 Air Tank Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:31 PM in Modifications

The Blast Bazooka is my current primary. Murakumo, I also use 1.5" stefans with 1/4" Steel Shot wieghts. I use a 12" 9/16 OD Brass barrel. The coupler on the gun is a 1/2" sch. 40 PVC coupler with a piece of 19/32" OD Brass in the middle, so that the 9/16" barrel slides right in. To load the gun, I just put the stefan in the rear of the barrel and then screw in the barrel.

When I range tested, I got between 100' and 123' consistantly, with no mod to the tank itself (only the trigger). I thought that was a little high. In reality, I found out that my while the coupler is centered side-to-side, it angles the barrel upward. With a level shot, the range will be less.

Unlike you, I can't say that I've found this gun to be very accurate. With my 12" barrel, which works better than the 8" one I had before, I only shoot at people 60' away, closer if they're moving fast.

Here's some pics of my LBB:

Posted Image

#66091 Barrels

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:37 PM in Modifications

Boltsniper had some of the math in his FAR writeup:

I did some experimentation to determine what would be the optimal barrel length for a given plunger size. The goal was to find the barrel length for which the dart would exit the barrel as the plunger reaches the end of the plunger tube. I started off by matching the volume of the plunger to the volume of the barrel. I knew that this was going to produce too long a barrel but it was a good place to start. This would assume that the air inside the plunger and barrel is incompressible and that there are no leaks. In the real world this is not the case. I reduced the barrel length until I had found the length at which the dart was leaving the barrel as the plunger was reaching its stop, coinciding with the maximum attainable range. Experimentally the plunger volume seems to be about 4 times that of the barrel. The relation for barrel to plunger size can be summed up in the following equation,

where rb is the barrel radius, rp is the plunger radius, lb is the barrel length, and lp is the plunger length. For Nerf applications the barrel is almost always 1/2" PVC or CPVC. rb can then be set as a constant at 0.25" and removed from the equation. Since we are trying to solve for the barrel length with a given plunger size, the equation can be rearranged and simplified to:

This simple equation makes it easy to roughly but quickly size a barrel to a given plunger. The equation could also be used to size a plunger for a given length barrel. This equation is based on experimental data and is not perfect. Four is not the golden number. This produces the optimal barrel length for the situation I was testing. The type of dart, dart-barrel friction, and total system volume will likely effect the optimal ratio. Nevertheless, the above equation can be used as a starting point.

That's the most technical approach to it that I can remember seeing. When determining barrel sizes for myself, I just figure the more powerful the gun, the longer the barrel. I start at 12" and just work down from there until I get a size that works. Most 'rifle' guns that I have use 1/2" PVC couplers, so I already have some barrels lying around that I can try.

#66095 Nf Coupler Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:45 PM in Modifications

I don't know about CPVC, because I've actually never bought CPVC couplers. But as far as all kinds of PVC goes, the couplings should be tight. VERY tight. So something sounds wrong here. You might want to make sure you got the right couplers, because I have all kinds of different brands of couplers for 1/2" PVC (for example) and they all fit the same.

That's a very solid mod. It would be nice to have a pic of the finished product though...for some reason, that just makes it complete in my mind. I have a CPVC barreled NF that gets no where near those ranges, but I think that it's because my Stefans are a bad fit for CPVC...I've since then stopped using it.

#66182 Paper Darts?

Posted by BloodMoon on 20 October 2005 - 08:26 PM in General Nerf

I know I haven't been here all that long, but I have found that giving ebay links is just a really, really bad idea. Just for future reference.

I can't imagine that any darts made out of paper are as good as stefans. For starters, they have to have almost no wieight...which poses problems if you want to shoot over five feet. Next, how can they possibly make a good seal with the barrel? As they must be easily bent, I doubt that there's any good barrel for them.

#66184 The Hornet

Posted by BloodMoon on 20 October 2005 - 08:32 PM in General Nerf

Based on the Modifications section on this site, I'd say that after modding, the guns perform about equally, though I don't know anyone in my area who wars with a Hornet or a Blastfire.

I'd really like to get my hands on a Hornet, but I'm not about to buy a N-Strike, considering that they're $40 and I don't want/need the Titan or the Scout (nevermind anything else the N-Strike comes with). If they were sold individually, I'd gladly pay $15 for one, but I'm not motivated enough to find one to buy online.

#66186 Tool Prerequisites

Posted by BloodMoon on 20 October 2005 - 08:42 PM in Modifications

As SirTofu said, a dremel is probably the single most valueble tool that a nerf modder can have, but you'll want to make sure you're in Nerf for the long haul before you go out and buy them, because they're not all that cheap ($50+). Not only are they great for sanding down barrels and cases, but they'll do better than anything else I've seen for shaping PVC and (more recently with Boltsniper's designs). And they're great high-speed drills.

I don't know if you count this as a tool, but I use a vice all the time, for letting stuff dry and holding things that I need to drill/sand.

Something that I can't get enough of that hasn't been mentioned is Electrical Tape (also called Vinyl Tape or E-Tape). My main use for it is that wrapping pipe/tubing with it increases the outer diameter. I've also seen it used for added holding strengh and better grips for your guns. If nothing else, it makes things black (or whatever other color of E-Tape you'd like to buy).

#66353 Home Made Bolt Action

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 09:52 PM in Homemades

Well, I don't live in Canada, never mind Toronto, so I can't help you there. I get my brass at Ace Hardware for about $3.25 a foot (9/16 OD), but I hear that you can order online, and it may be cheaper. In case you haven't heard enough about brass, the final thing I can say is that Brass comes in all sizes down to 1/32 of an inch. It's VERY helpful to walk into Ace with a dart or some material and just check all the sizes of brass until you get to the one that fits.

Also, as a new person to Homemades (who is trying to get all the information he can), I'd like to see a list of the other materials you'll be using to make your bolt-action rifle.

#66354 New Silencer

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 09:56 PM in Homemades

I'll probably get around to making a silencer on a day when I just feel like drilling holes in stuff.

Just a question on the function of your silencer...I'm assuming that the noise reduction is really only an issue for pump guns, seeing as in a spring gun the sound of the spring colliding with the end of the plunger tube is louder than the dart firing (though I may be wrong)?

#66357 Airtech 3k Tubing Blown!

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 10:12 PM in Modifications

I have used vinyl and hot glue and it worked fine, considering that the ID of the tubing was the same as the original tubing (so that it fit on fine and made an airtight seal without hotglue). I used hot glue to keep it in place. I have some pics in case they're helpful (yes, I know that the gun is ugly as sin, yes, I know that couplermodding a 3k is dumb).

Posted Image

#66358 Springs

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 10:18 PM in Modifications

I haven't actually opened up a Firefly, but the mech seems enough like the Maverick's that I'd be scared to add a more powerful spring without a really good idea of how to reinforce the thing ahead of time.

In what section of your hardware stores do you find the springs?

For all of the hardware stores I've been in, there's been a wall of springs somewhere. Just ask someone who works there...unlike some items (like brass), springs are really common, and the people working at your hardware store should know where they are. As far as the three stores nearest to me, however, I've been unable to find any good springs for use in cocking guns, so I'm going to try to get ahold of some AR15 springs, as per Boltsniper's Homemades.

#66359 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 10:22 PM in Modifications

Nice integretion but the pump should be where the barrelis of the sm1500, and the barrel should come out the top hole where the original Xbow's barrel was.

Uhh, then where would the crossbow's barrel be??

Here's a pic of my LBB, though I already posted the pic in some other thread:
Posted Image

#66360 Favorite Energy Drink?

Posted by BloodMoon on 22 October 2005 - 10:25 PM in Off Topic

I don't really go for energy drinks, but in place of that I go through a crapload of Coffee and Green Tea.

Redbull...ugh. It's just aweful.

#66426 Airtech 3k Tubing Blown!

Posted by BloodMoon on 23 October 2005 - 03:54 PM in Modifications

5/16" OD and 3/16" ID. Got it at Ace Hardware for something like $.19 a foot.

#66427 New Home Made Darts

Posted by BloodMoon on 23 October 2005 - 03:56 PM in Modifications

I know some people who have darts like that, but in the end, Stefans are cheaper like you mentioned. Much cheaper...they're about $.01 or $.02 per dart the way I make them, which is pretty standard.

#66428 Nf Barrels?

Posted by BloodMoon on 23 October 2005 - 04:00 PM in Modifications

When I did my second NF, brass inside 9/16" PVC, I actually did remove that whole piece and the thing worked quite well.

Just to sum it up though, make sure you have a Brass, PETG, Crayola, or CPVC barrel for the 1/2" FBR that you are going to buy.

#66429 New Silencer

Posted by BloodMoon on 23 October 2005 - 04:05 PM in Homemades

Well, I don't think that silencers do anything practical for you in a war, but they do silence the 'pop' of the air coming out of the gun a little bit.

#66430 Soldat!

Posted by BloodMoon on 23 October 2005 - 04:08 PM in Off Topic

I did actually play that, for all of about a week. It was fun because you could install in about 20 seconds and then have LAN games. I also made a few guns and a couple of animations for it, it's rediculously easy. But the game doesn't have tons of depth or anything, so unless you're just up for killing time with friends (and don't want to nerf), it's nothing Effeminate.

#66515 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 24 October 2005 - 05:52 PM in Homemades

post was full of information that turned out to be incorrect...skip down a few posts and read Bolt's own post.

#66518 Barrel Selection

Posted by BloodMoon on 24 October 2005 - 06:03 PM in Modifications

Well, using 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for 1/2" diameter micro stefans won't give you good results at all. The 1/2" PVC has a 5/8" inner diameter, which is only good for mega stefans. So if you're choosing between PVC and CPVC for micros, you really only have one choice, and that is CPVC.

If you can't get brass, that I can assume that you also can't get PETG. The other barrel materials to consider are Sch. 80 PVC (haven't used this, but some people claim it works) and Crayolas. Crayolas might be a good, slightly less constricted alternative to CVPC for your guns.

In general, if you have a spring gun (or any gun with a high air volume / slow air delivery), you will benefit from a constriction.

#66618 Barrel Selection

Posted by BloodMoon on 26 October 2005 - 07:42 PM in Modifications

Copper is usually a VERY loose fit for micros, so I wouldn't ever use it on a spring gun. I've seen copper used on air guns that have a very large air volume, but personally I find that brass works better for both spring and air guns.

#66671 Boltsniper Gns Pistol For Sale

Posted by BloodMoon on 27 October 2005 - 09:08 PM in Homemades

I took a break from it and brainstormed a new homemade that's gonna kick ass.

Darn...my GNS will be obsolete before I even get the rest of the parts to build it.

Not only does the GNS look awesome, the ranges are great, with an edge over Nerf's current-generation pistols.

Can't wait to see schmatics for the GNS parts as well as pics of the new gun. I can tell you that in my community alone, there are plenty of people hanging on every word you post, Boltsniper.

#66712 Styling Glue Help

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 October 2005 - 05:56 PM in Modifications

For any kind of 'styling', I just keep an ice cube handy. Because I'd rather not burn myself on something like that.

#66763 The Firefly, How Do We Modify This Monster...

Posted by BloodMoon on 29 October 2005 - 04:41 PM in Modifications

Because I'm feeling nice:
the Renegade FireFly Mod

#66764 Tagger Mods?

Posted by BloodMoon on 29 October 2005 - 04:47 PM in Modifications

If this gun is anything like the Maverick or Firefly, I'd agree that doing a barrel mod is more of a pain than it's worth. You might want to check out Flamebo's Mod right here.

#66771 Dart Tag Firestrike In Stores!

Posted by BloodMoon on 29 October 2005 - 08:14 PM in General Nerf

Would they allow you to buy one? Baghead said he saw them in his Wal Mart, but he couldn't buy them because they were 'recalled'. If they do let people buy them, that sounds like a pretty good deal.

#67077 Size Of Pvc For Homemade Gun

Posted by BloodMoon on 03 November 2005 - 07:01 PM in Homemades

Here's a chart.

I measured some 1", and that chart seems about right, so I'd say it's pretty safe to assume that the chart is correct for the rest of the pipe sizes.

Unfortunately, it doesn't list ID's and OD's for thin wall PVC (for example, 230 PSI 3/4" PVC or 200 PSI 1" PVC), which you may want in your design.

#67163 Bolts New Pistol

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 November 2005 - 05:46 PM in General Nerf

Well, in that case, I see no reason why it wouldn't work. You're combining a proven clip design with a working pistol. If the aesthetic work is as clean as it is on Boltsniper's homemades, it may well turn out to be the best looking nerf weapon that I have ever seen.

#67168 Bolts New Pistol

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 November 2005 - 07:59 PM in General Nerf

Well, I suppose that you could do it as pictured supposing that the bolt and the barrel were the same piece, as in a breech. You'd just have to pull the barrel out and push it back in to load the next dart. Not as nice as a breech handle, but you could build it more along the perportions pictured.

#67248 New Google Group:nerf Guns

Posted by BloodMoon on 06 November 2005 - 07:50 PM in General Nerf

Two things. First, having a Google group probably won't do anything dramatic. Second, more nerfers isn't a bad thing. Second, I'd have to agree with Doom in saying that 'the underground' is a moronic cliche. More nerfers is always a good thing.

#67496 1" 200 Psi Pvc

Posted by BloodMoon on 11 November 2005 - 10:43 PM in Homemades

I live near two Home Depots. For the things they carry, they usually have the cheapest prices, so I usually check there first. However, niether of the ones I live near carry thin-wall pipe (believe me, I spend hours in those places). My local Ace Hardware doesn't carry thin-wall, and they generally have more expensive prices (being a locally-owned store), though I love them because they carry the majority of the items I use.

As for the places that DO carry the pipe, Lowes is a haul for me, but they carry more types of PVC than anywhere else I've been to, thin-wall included. I get most of my thin-wall from a locally-owned store called Wentworth Lumber Yard. Just see what kind of places in your area.

#67615 The Soloution To Glue Dillema

Posted by BloodMoon on 13 November 2005 - 10:07 PM in Modifications

That's good to know. Usually when I use hotglue, I'm setting up for using Epoxy or some stuff I use called E-6000.

#67658 Nf Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 November 2005 - 10:31 PM in Modifications

Not to hijack your thread, but could some one fill me on on the difference between the 'old' NF's and the EX-3's? I'm considering bying more NF's, and I'm wondering because I have a few spare old NF parts that I could probably use in an EX-3 (spring, plunger head).

It's a solid mod. It's a lot like what I wound up doing for my very first mod. What I can tell you about ranges on the NF CPVC mod is that you'll get very different results depending on your stefans.

Thanks, Uncle Hammer. I guess I'll also be buying a whole bunch of 'old' NF's if there are still any lying around on shelves somewheres.

#67665 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 November 2005 - 10:59 PM in Modifications

I was in a PetCo yesterday and I did find PETG, but it was the same 3/4". I believe that I also have a Petcetra around somewhere, so when I'm over in that direction, I'll check it out.

As far as brass goes, I'd say that if you're new and you have an Ace nearby, that should be the first place you check. Of three Ace stores, I've found brass at all three. That doesn't mean that all Ace's carry it, but it does mean that it's worth checking. Be aware that brass is a relatively uncommon item, so you may have to search the store yourself.

I have never seen brass at Lowes. I haven't been to more than one Lowe's though.

#68541 Strongest Adhesive

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 November 2005 - 08:24 PM in Modifications

For that kind of stuff, I use a lot of E6000, but that's mostly because I get tons of it from where I work, not because it's the best. Any superglue based on cyanoacrylate works amazingly well on plastic/PVC materials.

#68673 Crossbow

Posted by BloodMoon on 01 December 2005 - 08:54 PM in General Nerf

The 'someone' that you're refering to probably had a very minimal part in the increase in price, from what I see. It's simple supply/demand theory. Once the seller saw how fast they were going, she would have racheted up the price a notch anyway. The way I see it (though I may or may not be alone here), the person who told her was just being a good neighbor, not doing anything stupid.

#68808 At2k Quad Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 04 December 2005 - 11:57 PM in Modifications

Well, I have to say that it looks like the barrels could bend or fall off at any moment, but maybe your hot glue is better than mine. I think that I would use epoxy instead, and possibly put a pole of something in the middle just to make sure that they are aligned.

Just one question that I've never really asked. What do you do to get the darts into the back of the barrels? Do you ramrod, or is the fit loose enough that you can just blow them down?

#69053 Question About The Far

Posted by BloodMoon on 11 December 2005 - 07:33 PM in Homemades

I fully agree with NinjZ.
I'm thinking that it would be actually cheaper to buy a springer than to try and get all the parts for building a homemade one.

Also, I'm not sure the FAR is the best place to look for ideas on this. The FAR was designed with bulky foam ammunition in mind, so I don't know how much of Bolt's design is going to be relevant to what you're trying to do. The FAR is a good primer for a project like this, but I think that you're going to have to redesign the magazine system to work with the BB's, which will be no small feat.

#69895 Dart Tag Mod? Yes I Searched

Posted by BloodMoon on 26 December 2005 - 07:03 PM in Modifications

Put a different way, the 'method' of cocking is not limited. The force is determined by the spring itself, not the mechanism. Admittedly, there are limitations based on the strength of the plastic in the cocking mechanism, but you can always try to reinforce.

Maybe I'm just better at searching (don't know how that's possible, you just type in what you're looking for), but I did find this: Flamebo's Mod

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