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#66186 Tool Prerequisites

Posted by BloodMoon on 20 October 2005 - 08:42 PM in Modifications

As SirTofu said, a dremel is probably the single most valueble tool that a nerf modder can have, but you'll want to make sure you're in Nerf for the long haul before you go out and buy them, because they're not all that cheap ($50+). Not only are they great for sanding down barrels and cases, but they'll do better than anything else I've seen for shaping PVC and (more recently with Boltsniper's designs). And they're great high-speed drills.

I don't know if you count this as a tool, but I use a vice all the time, for letting stuff dry and holding things that I need to drill/sand.

Something that I can't get enough of that hasn't been mentioned is Electrical Tape (also called Vinyl Tape or E-Tape). My main use for it is that wrapping pipe/tubing with it increases the outer diameter. I've also seen it used for added holding strengh and better grips for your guns. If nothing else, it makes things black (or whatever other color of E-Tape you'd like to buy).

#66184 The Hornet

Posted by BloodMoon on 20 October 2005 - 08:32 PM in General Nerf

Based on the Modifications section on this site, I'd say that after modding, the guns perform about equally, though I don't know anyone in my area who wars with a Hornet or a Blastfire.

I'd really like to get my hands on a Hornet, but I'm not about to buy a N-Strike, considering that they're $40 and I don't want/need the Titan or the Scout (nevermind anything else the N-Strike comes with). If they were sold individually, I'd gladly pay $15 for one, but I'm not motivated enough to find one to buy online.

#66182 Paper Darts?

Posted by BloodMoon on 20 October 2005 - 08:26 PM in General Nerf

I know I haven't been here all that long, but I have found that giving ebay links is just a really, really bad idea. Just for future reference.

I can't imagine that any darts made out of paper are as good as stefans. For starters, they have to have almost no wieight...which poses problems if you want to shoot over five feet. Next, how can they possibly make a good seal with the barrel? As they must be easily bent, I doubt that there's any good barrel for them.

#66095 Nf Coupler Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:45 PM in Modifications

I don't know about CPVC, because I've actually never bought CPVC couplers. But as far as all kinds of PVC goes, the couplings should be tight. VERY tight. So something sounds wrong here. You might want to make sure you got the right couplers, because I have all kinds of different brands of couplers for 1/2" PVC (for example) and they all fit the same.

That's a very solid mod. It would be nice to have a pic of the finished product though...for some reason, that just makes it complete in my mind. I have a CPVC barreled NF that gets no where near those ranges, but I think that it's because my Stefans are a bad fit for CPVC...I've since then stopped using it.

#66091 Barrels

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:37 PM in Modifications

Boltsniper had some of the math in his FAR writeup:

I did some experimentation to determine what would be the optimal barrel length for a given plunger size.  The goal was to find the barrel length for which the dart would exit the barrel as the plunger reaches the end of the plunger tube.  I started off by matching the volume of the plunger to the volume of the barrel.  I knew that this was going to produce too long a barrel but it was a good place to start.  This would assume that the air inside the plunger and barrel is incompressible and that there are no leaks.  In the real world this is not the case.  I reduced the barrel length until I had found the length at which the dart was leaving the barrel as the plunger was reaching its stop, coinciding with the maximum attainable range.  Experimentally the plunger volume seems to be about 4 times that of the barrel.  The relation for barrel to plunger size can be summed up in the following equation,
Posted Image
where rb is the barrel radius, rp is the plunger radius, lb is the barrel length, and lp is the plunger length.  For Nerf applications the barrel is almost always 1/2" PVC or CPVC.  rb can then be set as a constant at 0.25" and removed from the equation.  Since we are trying to solve for the barrel length with a given plunger size, the equation can be rearranged and simplified to:
Posted Image
This simple equation makes it easy to roughly but quickly size a barrel to a given plunger.  The equation could also be used to size a plunger for a given length barrel.  This equation is based on experimental data and is not perfect.  Four is not the golden number.  This produces the optimal barrel length for the situation I was testing.  The type of dart, dart-barrel friction, and total system volume will likely effect the optimal ratio.  Nevertheless, the above equation can be used as a starting point.

That's the most technical approach to it that I can remember seeing. When determining barrel sizes for myself, I just figure the more powerful the gun, the longer the barrel. I start at 12" and just work down from there until I get a size that works. Most 'rifle' guns that I have use 1/2" PVC couplers, so I already have some barrels lying around that I can try.

#66089 Air Tank Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 October 2005 - 09:31 PM in Modifications

The Blast Bazooka is my current primary. Murakumo, I also use 1.5" stefans with 1/4" Steel Shot wieghts. I use a 12" 9/16 OD Brass barrel. The coupler on the gun is a 1/2" sch. 40 PVC coupler with a piece of 19/32" OD Brass in the middle, so that the 9/16" barrel slides right in. To load the gun, I just put the stefan in the rear of the barrel and then screw in the barrel.

When I range tested, I got between 100' and 123' consistantly, with no mod to the tank itself (only the trigger). I thought that was a little high. In reality, I found out that my while the coupler is centered side-to-side, it angles the barrel upward. With a level shot, the range will be less.

Unlike you, I can't say that I've found this gun to be very accurate. With my 12" barrel, which works better than the 8" one I had before, I only shoot at people 60' away, closer if they're moving fast.

Here's some pics of my LBB:

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#66027 Gun Idea

Posted by BloodMoon on 17 October 2005 - 06:55 PM in Modifications

I don't think that it's a very logical idea...either the gun will be large and hard to handle, or the priming time would take a hit. Both ways, I'd rather have one good shot than two hard-to-load ones. If you want to have a shotgun like that, I suppose you could load two stefans with a nested barrel, but that's really not what you're suggesting.

In general, I don't think it's a good idea to start a new topic when you don't really care about the results (you're not even going to TRY to build one).

#65979 At2k Stock

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 10:49 PM in Modifications

I can't say that in my experience stocks make a gun much more accurate. But they feel really damn good. So in my opinion, what you should do is just make a stock that feels good to you, not to some other random person.

#65978 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 10:39 PM in Homemades

Damn, how much would you say of the work requires dremeling? Like is it pretty much impossible to make one with a kit without a dremel?

Well, I'm not Boltsniper, but when I take a look at that trigger plate I don't see any way that it could be made without a dremel...in fact, I'm a little scared about how I'm going to do it WITH a dremel, but Ace's aluminum comes in big sheets, so I'll have some time to practice with it once there are some exact dimensions posted. Here's Bolt's pic:
Posted Image

$5 sounds like a very reasonable price for shipping.

EDIT: oops...Bolt beat me to the answer; sorry about that.

#65939 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 04:55 PM in Homemades

The $7 dollar shipping charge is due to it being ups, if you order more than one the shipping stays the same.

True. If I order online I'm getting at least three...it'd be a waste not to, at that shipping price.

#65937 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 16 October 2005 - 04:21 PM in Homemades

Nice image there. I guess the big obstacle I still see in developing a pistol with the clip housed in the grip is the trigger mechanism....for the trigger mechanism to contact the plunger, I believe that there would have to be some wire or something that would pass right through the clip.

Does $20 include shipping? The shipping on just the spring for a lot of the sites I've seen seems to be in the $7 range, so your deal is looking better and better. I'm gonna check around some local places that sell guns/parts, see if they can help me out.

And, apologies in advance for being an ass, but Bolt, on your sig, I believe you mean 'Achtung'...I'm a German speaker and those things get on me after a while.

#65875 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 10:08 PM in Homemades

Thanks, I'll have to try that.

#65861 Firefly Not A Pistol?

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 08:03 PM in General Nerf

Well, I think that our 'classification' is ROF. That's in my opinion the biggest quality a nerf gun has. Single-shot, semi-auto, full-auto or something like that. Though since I've started modding, bolt-action is also a pretty good term to use.

Quick Fact: If I remember correctly, the P90 and the Five-seveN have the same ammunition because they're munufactured by the same company, Fabrique Nationale. Which is why Five-seveN has the wierd capitolizations.

#65859 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 07:45 PM in Homemades

I don't think that a clip in the handle is too close...if it was possible and bolt did it, I would start a new religion that worshipped him. The FAR is the most ingenious design for a nerf gun, period. This thing is completely awesome, and not all that complicated to build. And, because of it, I rented and watched Equilibrium.

That sounds like a good price for the kit, though I already have enough of the parts lying around that it will be cheaper to just buy the rest of them. That said, I'm probably going to wind up with enough extra material to make a second one, if I can even get the first one to work.

My first big question with the construction is about cutting the 1" PVC needed for the 'Frame'. Here's a pic in case that wasn't clear:
Posted Image
Anyway, in the past when I've needed to cut PVC crosswise like that, I've done it with a Hacksaw, which not only makes for bad cuts but it usually takes me 2 or 3 tries to get one cut straight enough to use. How did you cut that piece? I looked at some PVC shears in Home Depot, but the ones I saw looked like they'd only cut lengthwise...I'm assuming that's how all PVC shears work?

Also, a list of the Dremel bits used would be extremely helpful (especially about cutting that aluminum), but I'm assuming that that will be in the write-up.

#65816 New Stefans And Shotgun Idea

Posted by BloodMoon on 15 October 2005 - 10:32 AM in General Nerf

Is clay actually cheaper? Metal wieghts are sold, if I am remembering correctly, for something like 200 of them for under three dollars. I'm talking about 1/4" steel shot here.

#65794 Maverick

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 October 2005 - 06:54 PM in Modifications

You need to be more specific. First of all, if you didn't take the gun apart and just stuck a new barrel on the end of it right on the end of the orange cap as marked below, I can see why that wouldn't work.
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If the thing is airtight, all of your air is being lost between where the revolver portion ends and when your barrel begins.

Or maybe I'm completely lost as to what you're trying to say.

Anyway, if you're keeping your Maverick stock, you're accuracy is probably the least of your concerns. If you're looking for a good Mav mod, I'd check out Baghead's mod right here.

#65792 New Stefans And Shotgun Idea

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 October 2005 - 06:46 PM in General Nerf

I never thought of using clay. Good thought!

#65791 Problems With My Nerf Guns

Posted by BloodMoon on 14 October 2005 - 06:44 PM in General Nerf

Stick to stock darts for the scout. My scout will shoot a stock dart like 25 feet where a stefan wont even leave the barrell.

Sorry I didn't mention that. You're absolutely right.

For more info, go here:
Ompa's Scout Mod

#65732 Problems With My Nerf Guns

Posted by BloodMoon on 13 October 2005 - 10:38 PM in General Nerf

Well, as far as your IX-3 and your NiteFinder, you may have easily fixed problems, so if you open up the gun and look around, the solution might be obvious. You never know.

As far as your dart situation, you might want to look into Stefans. I use them because they allow you to build guns that don't muzzle load, and because they cost somewhere between 1 and 2 cents each to make. Check out this thread here.

#65478 Simple Lbb Mod

Posted by BloodMoon on 10 October 2005 - 06:46 PM in Modifications

I have a LBB that I have modified to fire micro stefans. I usually pump nine times, which is all I really can considering that I haven't removed the air restrictor. It has a 1/2" PVC coupler, and the best range I've gotten is about 125', given that my mod has the barrel angled slightly upward.

Could you pump the gun less because it is only firing stefans instead of bulky foam missiles? Yes, you can. But in a war, unless you're really desperate, you're going to want to pump it that many times because that way you'll get greater range.

#65410 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 09 October 2005 - 09:39 PM in Homemades

Thanks for clearing that up. Looks like it won't cost an arm and a leg, either.

#65400 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 09 October 2005 - 06:32 PM in Homemades

I already have most of the required stuff for building one of these, might have to get some new Dremel bits though. What I'm worried about is the spring. Will I be able to find a spring in the hardware store that will work for this project once the writeup is done? Is it possible to buy an AR15 spring online for this project, or is that illegal because it's a piece of a real rifle (I don't own any real firearms)?

#65135 At3000 W/ At2000 On It

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 October 2005 - 08:36 PM in Homemades

I think it's a dumb idea, but hey, if you can post a picture of it, maybe I'll change my mind.

#65133 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 October 2005 - 08:31 PM in Homemades

You really deserve about 200 cookies for this one, boltsniper. I'm really looking forward to the schematic, the same kind of thing you did for the Excel file for the FAR. I really like how you've mapped out everything you've done; gives everyone a lot of ideas. I'm a little scared about the aluminum part, but maybe I won't be after the writeup.

#65131 Performance Problems With Airtech 3k

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 October 2005 - 08:24 PM in Modifications

Well, I make stefans the same way (minus the hole in back, which I've been meaning to try). I have a brassed 3k, and have never had a problem like that. It's that the darts are consistantly curving right that stumps me. I can't think of anything that would be going wrong.

#65110 Performance Problems With Airtech 3k

Posted by BloodMoon on 05 October 2005 - 05:05 PM in Modifications

Could you describe the way you make stefans?

#65076 At3k Help

Posted by BloodMoon on 04 October 2005 - 09:50 PM in Modifications

Plugging the release will give a big boost to your ranges, but just make sure you don't pump more than 5 times or so, or your tank may burst.

#64930 At2k Tank Expansion

Posted by BloodMoon on 02 October 2005 - 10:32 PM in Modifications

Take a look at this topic.

I have never enlarged a tank before myself...I don't see a ton of benifit, but I'm just waiting to be proven wrong on that.

#64929 At3k Help

Posted by BloodMoon on 02 October 2005 - 10:27 PM in Modifications

Don't worry, I think that a lot of stock AT3K's are like that (have darts that don't fire). Mine were, but it was just an issue of a really bulky restrictor that was holding the dart in the barrel.

As far as a good barrel replacement:
If you're looking to single the AT3K (I have one singled because the rotator broke) you can replace the barrel with pretty much anything that you have lying around that fits your darts, it doesn't have to be PETG.

The reason that most mods are PETG is because you're limited on room if you want to keep the six rotating barrels. PETG fits nicely, but you can also use 9/16" OD Brass for very similar performance. Crayola barrels would probably fit nicely (I plan on trying that out on an AT3K that I have lying around). Anything with a bigger outer diameter, like PVC, will be a pain to fit in the six barrel slots, if it's even possible.

I'm sure there's a restrictor removal somewhere, but I don't remember seeing one...a barrel replacement will most likely be a lot easier.

#64925 Rf20 Problems

Posted by BloodMoon on 02 October 2005 - 10:11 PM in General Nerf

Well, if you've never taken it apart, now might be a good time...maybe the problem will be really obvious.

#64810 Do You Search?

Posted by BloodMoon on 02 October 2005 - 09:16 AM in General Nerf

I usually search with Google. It works a lot better than the search function built in to the forums. I'm sure this has been said before, but just go to Google and type in
site:nerfhaven.com "your-search-here"
into the search bar.

#64542 Mech Six's In Stores!

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 September 2005 - 09:33 PM in General Nerf

Well, if it fires like a disc shooter does, I don't think there's a ton of range potential, but I could be very wrong, we'll just have to wait and find out. For the clip and lack of any real pumping/cocking, I'd gladly pick one up if the thing can get 30 feet...but I think that's a bit much to hope for.

#64541 Youre Computer Specs

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 September 2005 - 09:29 PM in Off Topic

Intel P4 3.2 gHz
eVGA nVidia 6800 GT
Intel D865PERL MoBo
120 GB, 7200 RPM IDE Hard Drive
Windows XP Pro + SP1

No, I don't have a reason for not going to SP2...but the earlier version of SP2 annoyed me, and I never really thought of checking back to see what's changed. I have a PII computer running Red Hat 9 Linux, but that really shouldn't count.

#64540 Splitfire Tactical

Posted by BloodMoon on 28 September 2005 - 09:18 PM in Modifications

I think that overall, it looks very nice. I like the black paint in contrast with the brass-colored barrels and pump.

I'm a fan of black weapons...I think that it looks better than some of the flourescent colors that guns come in, though most of the time I'd just rather leave the default color on. And, in truth, I'm a lazy painter; cover what you don't want painted with masking tape, and then paint on a coat of Krylon Fusion spraypaint, the color of your choice. While black paint could be an issue at a public park, I generally nerf at other people's houses, so it's not an issue.

#64360 New Clip

Posted by BloodMoon on 25 September 2005 - 10:25 PM in Homemades

As far a stripper clips, the idea works, though I'm not sure if we'll have any problems due to the fact that we're not using 'solid' ammuntion or shells...like, it might be a little hard to have the darts stay in the clip while you're carrying it around, and then getting them off the clip and in to the gun. This is assuming that you have to take the clip part out of the gun when you're loading the darts, which I believe is how a stripper clip works but I'm not sure if that's necessary.

As far as the M1 clip, I won't have a good idea about it for sure until I try to build one. I don't think it would be all that bad to make a clip that fits inside the mag (so to say). In my mind, I'm just tring to think about ompa's clip and then what parts of it would have to be in the stationary mag and what parts would be in the removable clip. In the M1 clip idea, would you have to have a section of the barrel attached to the removable clip, that the bolt would go in? Or would you not have to worry about that?

#64309 New Clip

Posted by BloodMoon on 25 September 2005 - 11:49 AM in Homemades

I think the whole idea of a non-detachable mag works because you can just shove more darts in as you have the time, rather than having to remove the clip to load any more darts in. The kind of stripper clip idea works as well because then you would also be able to load a full mag of rounds when you run out.

#64308 Home Grown Crossbow

Posted by BloodMoon on 25 September 2005 - 11:42 AM in Homemades

I'm not too clear on what your idea is, but if you pull it off, it sounds like it will cost almost nothing to make.

#63854 Your Armory

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 September 2005 - 06:10 PM in General Nerf

That doesn't beat my one and only Titan AS-V1

If it means something to you, I also have a SuperMaxx 3000, but it's pretty badly screwed up. I'm hoping to hunt down some of the Lanard guns, but so far I've only seen First Shot's, and I'd rather have more NF's than First Shot's.

EDIT: Apologies for getting off-topic. What I more meant to say is that I'd rather have a Blast Bazooka or better yet a Max Shot. Both, I believe, fire much larger projectiles than the First Shot, so I'm assuming that they'll get better range for the one shot that they're good for. I like NiteFinder's better because they are a little bit more compact, after you've taken off the laser casing and ammo holders, and they cost about the same.

#63817 At3k

Posted by BloodMoon on 18 September 2005 - 10:56 AM in Modifications

DO you think 7/16 ID would be too small or still usable for good distances on the at3k.

I think that that depends on the particular Foam Backer Rod that you're using to make darts (assuming that you're using micro stefans)...7/16" ID wouldn't fit my 1/2" FBR very well, and if it fits yours, I'm guessing it'll be a little on the tight side.

Where are you getting your PETG (I'm just curious, never used PETG myself)?

#63804 Your Armory

Posted by BloodMoon on 17 September 2005 - 11:50 PM in General Nerf

Saying that an At3k rotation mechenism is a little more complicated than a Maverick's is an understatement.

My arsenal (sad):