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There have been 88 items by BloodMoon (Search limited from 05-September 93)
I don't know if you count this as a tool, but I use a vice all the time, for letting stuff dry and holding things that I need to drill/sand.
Something that I can't get enough of that hasn't been mentioned is Electrical Tape (also called Vinyl Tape or E-Tape). My main use for it is that wrapping pipe/tubing with it increases the outer diameter. I've also seen it used for added holding strengh and better grips for your guns. If nothing else, it makes things black (or whatever other color of E-Tape you'd like to buy).
I'd really like to get my hands on a Hornet, but I'm not about to buy a N-Strike, considering that they're $40 and I don't want/need the Titan or the Scout (nevermind anything else the N-Strike comes with). If they were sold individually, I'd gladly pay $15 for one, but I'm not motivated enough to find one to buy online.
I can't imagine that any darts made out of paper are as good as stefans. For starters, they have to have almost no wieight...which poses problems if you want to shoot over five feet. Next, how can they possibly make a good seal with the barrel? As they must be easily bent, I doubt that there's any good barrel for them.
That's a very solid mod. It would be nice to have a pic of the finished product though...for some reason, that just makes it complete in my mind. I have a CPVC barreled NF that gets no where near those ranges, but I think that it's because my Stefans are a bad fit for CPVC...I've since then stopped using it.
I did some experimentation to determine what would be the optimal barrel length for a given plunger size. The goal was to find the barrel length for which the dart would exit the barrel as the plunger reaches the end of the plunger tube. I started off by matching the volume of the plunger to the volume of the barrel. I knew that this was going to produce too long a barrel but it was a good place to start. This would assume that the air inside the plunger and barrel is incompressible and that there are no leaks. In the real world this is not the case. I reduced the barrel length until I had found the length at which the dart was leaving the barrel as the plunger was reaching its stop, coinciding with the maximum attainable range. Experimentally the plunger volume seems to be about 4 times that of the barrel. The relation for barrel to plunger size can be summed up in the following equation,
where rb is the barrel radius, rp is the plunger radius, lb is the barrel length, and lp is the plunger length. For Nerf applications the barrel is almost always 1/2" PVC or CPVC. rb can then be set as a constant at 0.25" and removed from the equation. Since we are trying to solve for the barrel length with a given plunger size, the equation can be rearranged and simplified to:
This simple equation makes it easy to roughly but quickly size a barrel to a given plunger. The equation could also be used to size a plunger for a given length barrel. This equation is based on experimental data and is not perfect. Four is not the golden number. This produces the optimal barrel length for the situation I was testing. The type of dart, dart-barrel friction, and total system volume will likely effect the optimal ratio. Nevertheless, the above equation can be used as a starting point.
That's the most technical approach to it that I can remember seeing. When determining barrel sizes for myself, I just figure the more powerful the gun, the longer the barrel. I start at 12" and just work down from there until I get a size that works. Most 'rifle' guns that I have use 1/2" PVC couplers, so I already have some barrels lying around that I can try.
When I range tested, I got between 100' and 123' consistantly, with no mod to the tank itself (only the trigger). I thought that was a little high. In reality, I found out that my while the coupler is centered side-to-side, it angles the barrel upward. With a level shot, the range will be less.
Unlike you, I can't say that I've found this gun to be very accurate. With my 12" barrel, which works better than the 8" one I had before, I only shoot at people 60' away, closer if they're moving fast.
Here's some pics of my LBB:
In general, I don't think it's a good idea to start a new topic when you don't really care about the results (you're not even going to TRY to build one).
Well, I'm not Boltsniper, but when I take a look at that trigger plate I don't see any way that it could be made without a dremel...in fact, I'm a little scared about how I'm going to do it WITH a dremel, but Ace's aluminum comes in big sheets, so I'll have some time to practice with it once there are some exact dimensions posted. Here's Bolt's pic:
Damn, how much would you say of the work requires dremeling? Like is it pretty much impossible to make one with a kit without a dremel?
$5 sounds like a very reasonable price for shipping.
EDIT: oops...Bolt beat me to the answer; sorry about that.
Does $20 include shipping? The shipping on just the spring for a lot of the sites I've seen seems to be in the $7 range, so your deal is looking better and better. I'm gonna check around some local places that sell guns/parts, see if they can help me out.
And, apologies in advance for being an ass, but Bolt, on your sig, I believe you mean 'Achtung'...I'm a German speaker and those things get on me after a while.
Quick Fact: If I remember correctly, the P90 and the Five-seveN have the same ammunition because they're munufactured by the same company, Fabrique Nationale. Which is why Five-seveN has the wierd capitolizations.
That sounds like a good price for the kit, though I already have enough of the parts lying around that it will be cheaper to just buy the rest of them. That said, I'm probably going to wind up with enough extra material to make a second one, if I can even get the first one to work.
My first big question with the construction is about cutting the 1" PVC needed for the 'Frame'. Here's a pic in case that wasn't clear:
Anyway, in the past when I've needed to cut PVC crosswise like that, I've done it with a Hacksaw, which not only makes for bad cuts but it usually takes me 2 or 3 tries to get one cut straight enough to use. How did you cut that piece? I looked at some PVC shears in Home Depot, but the ones I saw looked like they'd only cut lengthwise...I'm assuming that's how all PVC shears work?
Also, a list of the Dremel bits used would be extremely helpful (especially about cutting that aluminum), but I'm assuming that that will be in the write-up.
If the thing is airtight, all of your air is being lost between where the revolver portion ends and when your barrel begins.
Or maybe I'm completely lost as to what you're trying to say.
Anyway, if you're keeping your Maverick stock, you're accuracy is probably the least of your concerns. If you're looking for a good Mav mod, I'd check out Baghead's mod right here.
As far as your dart situation, you might want to look into Stefans. I use them because they allow you to build guns that don't muzzle load, and because they cost somewhere between 1 and 2 cents each to make. Check out this thread here.
Could you pump the gun less because it is only firing stefans instead of bulky foam missiles? Yes, you can. But in a war, unless you're really desperate, you're going to want to pump it that many times because that way you'll get greater range.
As far as a good barrel replacement:
If you're looking to single the AT3K (I have one singled because the rotator broke) you can replace the barrel with pretty much anything that you have lying around that fits your darts, it doesn't have to be PETG.
The reason that most mods are PETG is because you're limited on room if you want to keep the six rotating barrels. PETG fits nicely, but you can also use 9/16" OD Brass for very similar performance. Crayola barrels would probably fit nicely (I plan on trying that out on an AT3K that I have lying around). Anything with a bigger outer diameter, like PVC, will be a pain to fit in the six barrel slots, if it's even possible.
I'm sure there's a restrictor removal somewhere, but I don't remember seeing one...a barrel replacement will most likely be a lot easier.
eVGA nVidia 6800 GT
1 GB DDR400 RAM
Intel D865PERL MoBo
120 GB, 7200 RPM IDE Hard Drive
Windows XP Pro + SP1
No, I don't have a reason for not going to SP2...but the earlier version of SP2 annoyed me, and I never really thought of checking back to see what's changed. I have a PII computer running Red Hat 9 Linux, but that really shouldn't count.
I'm a fan of black weapons...I think that it looks better than some of the flourescent colors that guns come in, though most of the time I'd just rather leave the default color on. And, in truth, I'm a lazy painter; cover what you don't want painted with masking tape, and then paint on a coat of Krylon Fusion spraypaint, the color of your choice. While black paint could be an issue at a public park, I generally nerf at other people's houses, so it's not an issue.
As far as the M1 clip, I won't have a good idea about it for sure until I try to build one. I don't think it would be all that bad to make a clip that fits inside the mag (so to say). In my mind, I'm just tring to think about ompa's clip and then what parts of it would have to be in the stationary mag and what parts would be in the removable clip. In the M1 clip idea, would you have to have a section of the barrel attached to the removable clip, that the bolt would go in? Or would you not have to worry about that?
If it means something to you, I also have a SuperMaxx 3000, but it's pretty badly screwed up. I'm hoping to hunt down some of the Lanard guns, but so far I've only seen First Shot's, and I'd rather have more NF's than First Shot's.
That doesn't beat my one and only Titan AS-V1
EDIT: Apologies for getting off-topic. What I more meant to say is that I'd rather have a Blast Bazooka or better yet a Max Shot. Both, I believe, fire much larger projectiles than the First Shot, so I'm assuming that they'll get better range for the one shot that they're good for. I like NiteFinder's better because they are a little bit more compact, after you've taken off the laser casing and ammo holders, and they cost about the same.
I think that that depends on the particular Foam Backer Rod that you're using to make darts (assuming that you're using micro stefans)...7/16" ID wouldn't fit my 1/2" FBR very well, and if it fits yours, I'm guessing it'll be a little on the tight side.
DO you think 7/16 ID would be too small or still usable for good distances on the at3k.
Where are you getting your PETG (I'm just curious, never used PETG myself)?