rork's Content

#274577 Wincno

Posted by rork on 11 May 2010 - 10:21 PM in Nerf Wars

A'ight, bitches. Time to get this ball rolling. Be there by 11. BRING A LUNCH. There are no nearby places to eat. A sandwich will be necessary. There will be water fountains, to the best of my knowledge, but bring agua, just in case. The schedule is gonna be pretty tight on this thing, and I will have a tentative round schedule up soon. Anybody who is gonna drop out, let me know now. Same for those of you who are coming for sure.

#274250 Wincno

Posted by rork on 07 May 2010 - 03:49 PM in Nerf Wars

We'll be starting at 11. Be there a few minutes early if possible, or if you don't know the basic rules.

#273085 Cfnf #4......summer Fl Nerfing At It's Best!

Posted by rork on 23 April 2010 - 10:05 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm a Maybe, for now. I really want to get down there and nerf with you guys.

#272526 Time To Look Inside... The Ldr!

Posted by rork on 18 April 2010 - 01:30 AM in Homemades

A few points:

1. Black guns are a bad idea. My PVC cannons either stay white, or get covered in colorful electrical tape. This thing would be disallowed in any war I was running, unless you allowed me to festoon it in pink/orange tape.

2. This is not a SNAP in any way, shape, or form, and those who say it is do not know what makes a SNAP a SNAP. It's much more like a singled FAR. I would love some good, clear pics of your trigger.

3. Airsoftguy, your name is Airsoftguy. Kindly shut the fuck up.

4. Drilling holes in your plunger is a fine idea, as that appears to be 1/2" PVC, which is muy overkill. Personally, I would go smaller, or take a small router bit to it.

#272160 My 2010 Hiatus

Posted by rork on 13 April 2010 - 11:23 PM in Off Topic

All y'all need to quit trying to compete with Groove, because it's impossible. Seriously, though, I'm glad you're OK, dude.

#271652 Wincno

Posted by rork on 08 April 2010 - 02:34 PM in Nerf Wars

Well, you will get to shoot some dudes. But we'll try to keep the unnatural acts to an absolute minimum.

#270129 Wincno

Posted by rork on 23 March 2010 - 08:59 PM in Nerf Wars

Damn. Also, new location, in Nantahala. Should be a bit closer for our FL/GA guests. But pack a lunch. I will be stopping for 15 minutes or so, and there are no fast food places within a half-hour. It's waaay on back in the woods. For any parents who don't want to sit around all afternoon, or any outdoorsy nerfers who might want to make a weekend of it, the area offers excellent trout fishing, hiking, and rafting opportunities.

#269843 Scorpion Ldr

Posted by rork on 21 March 2010 - 05:37 PM in Homemades

This takes me back to the bad ol' days...seriously, that paint job? Bad idea. But your fabrication skills are impressive. I'd love to see some detailed internal photos.

#269419 Wincno

Posted by rork on 16 March 2010 - 11:46 PM in Nerf Wars

Attendance and location have been updated. This thing is shaping up nicely. I should have pics of the war site up by the end of the week.

#269253 Spring Seno Tune-up War

Posted by rork on 15 March 2010 - 09:54 PM in Nerf Wars

I was confirming the date here because a good number of people could be attending both.

#269174 Spring Seno Tune-up War

Posted by rork on 15 March 2010 - 02:27 AM in Nerf Wars

WiNCNO is on May 15. Also, we need to work out some licensing over the title "SENO"...

#268694 Wincno

Posted by rork on 09 March 2010 - 06:07 PM in Nerf Wars

Yeah, I've been listing people who have told me in person that they were planning on attending.

#268692 Wincno

Posted by rork on 09 March 2010 - 05:37 PM in Nerf Wars

Hahaha, no problem dude. Hope you can make it.

#268470 Homemade Gun?

Posted by rork on 08 March 2010 - 03:32 AM in Homemades

CA13, no one cares about your opinion, because you're a tremendous douche. And a simple snap-in schrader valve would be a fine choice to fill a homemade tank.

#268405 Pvat-piston Valve Air Tank

Posted by rork on 07 March 2010 - 07:53 PM in Homemades

This is awesome. Personally, I would try to eliminate the excess PVC between the cap and the coupler. Smaller volume is definitely the way to go.

#268350 Wincno

Posted by rork on 07 March 2010 - 02:57 PM in Nerf Wars

Rogue told me you were coming. I look forward to nerfing with some of the FL crew again.

#268242 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 06 March 2010 - 12:51 PM in Homemades

Right now, the rail and stock are held on solely by hot glue, and I can easily hold the blaster by the new foregrip while I prime the blaster with no unwanted movement. I'll add some goop before I war with it, but really, it's just insurance. To go along with Umpa, I've done everything up to and including dropping the blaster on the butt-stock, and nothing budges. It's extremely strong. I don't sand the pieces or anything, either; it's simply unnecessary. Diamondback has one of these that I built for him, with a mini SNAP-4 mounted under it in the same way, and he can attest to its solidity, I'm sure.

Merzlin: That's a great idea. I normally discount anything that involves 3/4" pvc fitting over 1/2", since it's marginally too small, but in this case, that would be perfect, and would allow you to make one-piece snap-on bits as long as a particular integration required.

#268190 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 05 March 2010 - 10:47 PM in Homemades

I may put a triple barreled Jobar under there at some point. :lol:

#268186 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by rork on 05 March 2010 - 10:08 PM in Homemades

My latest handiwork.

#268184 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 05 March 2010 - 10:01 PM in Homemades

Legit Double Post:

I decided that SNAPs need an effective modular integration system that is as simple and rugged as the gun itself. I was inspired by Carbon's handle design.

Start with a length of 1/2" PVC. Glue it on with your adhesive of choice. The large amount of contact area means that the glue joint will be very strong.
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Grind out the center ring of a 1/2" coupler. Remove a section comprising 1/4 of the coupler. Mount it on the accessory you're adding. If you use screws, grind out a section of the rail piece for the heads to rest in.
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Add the accessory. Anchor it with screws.
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With this system, if you can attach a 1/2" coupler to it, you can mount it on your SNAPbow and remove it whenever you want. it's also perfectly possible to add more rails on the sides/top, making complex snap-on/off integrations a true possibility, even cleanly integrated, removable pumps and airguns.

#268152 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 05 March 2010 - 04:25 PM in Homemades

Thanks! I am working on a writeup for an absurdly easy rail system for this thing, so stay tuned...

#268093 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 05 March 2010 - 12:14 AM in Homemades

Carbon: Thanks! It really is sleek for a SNAP, and incredibly rugged.

Mindwarrior: yeah, with slug darts, it's pretty much identical. With heavier darts, I'm sure the +bow would have the edge, not that it matters, since I use slugs exclusively.

#268061 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 04 March 2010 - 07:38 PM in Homemades

What I was suggesting is that they make PVC fittings design to fit on the inside so that you don't have to mess around with e-tape by buying the correct size parts. But I suppose they might be difficult to find or expensive.

That would work great, but I have never seen them, ever.

#268034 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 04 March 2010 - 04:50 PM in Homemades

The end bushing has no wiggle whatsoever. The goop is just to seal it. The screws hold it in place extremely securely. I have had plunger tubes using a coupler fail due to having to use an adhesive.

#267914 Homemade At2k Tank.

Posted by rork on 03 March 2010 - 08:57 PM in Homemades

No one has ever built a working Zero Valve, to my knowledge. Especially not Zero Talent.

#267858 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 03 March 2010 - 04:50 PM in Homemades

Yes. The new plunger head has quite a bit less friction, I believe, than a PVC head. Either way, it consistently shoots 100'+, over a tape, with slug darts.

#267848 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 03 March 2010 - 04:39 PM in Homemades

Zorn: nesting everything inside the plunger tube is stronger, seals better, preserves the lines of the blaster for integrations, is lighter, and is significantly cheaper than using couplers. I also wanted to use universally available parts. I switched to an endcap for the back just because it is cheaper and a bit easier to work with. The modular trigger design is all new, it's built around my superlative plunger head and Carbon's new handle, and the stock mount is all new and extremely effective.

Mindwarrior, it would be about $40-50 to buy everything. They end up costing way less if, like me, you have a good parts bin.

Diamondback: thanks!

#267765 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 03 March 2010 - 01:23 AM in Homemades

This is already overkill. I get washers at Lowes. I'm sure Home Depot or Ace would have them as well. With mine, which uses a [k25], I have 7 1/2" of plunger stroke. 2" PVC is extremely annoying to work with.

#267761 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 03 March 2010 - 01:06 AM in Homemades

HOTH: Thanks!

N9: It's very comfortable. It's extremely sturdy. You're full of it.

#267753 Snapbow Mk. V

Posted by rork on 03 March 2010 - 12:41 AM in Homemades

I used pics from a few different builds, so just pay attention.

SNAPbow Mk. V.

Materials Needed:
Main Blaster Body:
1’ 1 ¼” sched. 40 pvc
6” ¾” sched. 40 pvc
1”x½” bushing

Handle/Stock:

#8x1 ½” screws (2)
1x2 Poplar board (or the handle material of your choice)
¾” poplar (or matching) dowel
½” pvc tee OR elbow
½” pvc 45

Trigger:

Industrial-strength clothespin
Roofing nail
4” zip ties (2)
8” zip tie
1 ½ “ angle bracket

Plunger Assembly:

Superlative plunger head (http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18314)
1 1/2" cpvc endcap
2 11/4" OD steel fender washers
1 appropriately sized nylon spacer (look at the photo)
1 #6 11/4" bolt
1 11/4" rubber fender washer
1 11/2" rubber fender washer
1 #8 finishing washer
1 #6 wing nut

1’ of ½” cpvc
½” cpvc T
¾” pvc endcap
[k25] OR Plusbow spring

Adhesives, screws, and so on:

Epoxy Putty
CA glue/Solvent weld
Goop
Hot glue
#6 ½” pan head sheet metal screws.

Main Body:

Wrap your 1” bushing in etape until it fits reasonably snugly in the pressure chamber (PC hereafter). Slather it with goop and seat it. Anchor it with 3 screws. Cut your ¾” pvc like so, grind it to fit your zip tie, and glue it along the top of the PC. I like hot glue followed by goop, but epoxy would also do fine. Drill a hole 3 ¼” from the rear of the PC for your trigger pin (4” if you’re using a plusbow spring). Wrap your ¾” endcap in a bit of tape, slide it into the PC until it’s pretty much flush, and drill a hole in each side. These screws will be how you disassemble the gun.
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This photo doesn't feature the groove/zip tie, but you get the idea.
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Trigger Assembly: Cut your clothespin down, fill with epoxy putty, drill, and assemble--pretty basic stuff. Make sure the pin is cut long enough; the superlative head fit’s the PC more loosely than does a traditionally made SNAP head, and a too-short pin is an invitation to catch slippage. Zip-tie the trigger on. No glue is necessary, although gooping it on is fine too. Fit a bit of cpvc over the angle bracket, or glue a block/randomly selected bit of flotsam to the handle to prevent overtravel.
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Make your superlative plunger head. Mount on your plunger shaft, using 2 screws or a pin. Add your spring, drill out your ¾” endcap, and add your handle. Lubricate with silicone grease, and nothing but silicone grease. Assemble, add a barrel, and shoot people.
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Handle and Stock:

Pretty self-explanatory. Make your handle, Carbon-style. You’ll need to grind/gut a groove for the screw heads to fit into. Pop it on, lift it up, and glue it down with high-guality CA glue/solvent weld. Super, super solid. Also a major pain in the ass to get off if your handle fails, so make sure your handle is built properly. Conversely, you can anchor it with 4-5 screws as shown
It will just take longer to disassemble.The handle should be butted against the back of the trigger, holding the trigger in place.
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Cut a dowel to the proper length for your stock, bulking it out as needed with etape. Add fittings as shown and screw it down.
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Plunger Assembly:

Maintenance: Re-lube infrequently. Pull the plunger and wipe it down occasionally, to remove any accumulated grime. I recommend priming by holding the foregrip in your non-dominant hand, and pulling back with your dominant hand. Use a long, tight barrel--I use 16” of cpvc, lubricated with silicone spray.

#267606 Wincno

Posted by rork on 02 March 2010 - 04:35 PM in Nerf Wars

I would recommend 100-150 per nerfer.

#267591 The Fomebow - Extensive Bow And Arrow Makeover.

Posted by rork on 02 March 2010 - 01:50 PM in Modifications

This is badass. As are you, sir.

#267409 Wincno

Posted by rork on 28 February 2010 - 07:57 PM in Nerf Wars

WiNCNO will be going down on May 15th. Be there.

#267394 Wincno

Posted by rork on 28 February 2010 - 05:04 PM in Nerf Wars

We need to get a date hammered out. I would prefer to do this April 24th or May 15th, but I need people to sound off.

#267376 Winter Seno: The Squeakquel

Posted by rork on 28 February 2010 - 01:11 PM in Nerf Wars

-SNAPbow party was Win.
-4-round hopper on a SNAPbow? Probably the most perfect nerf gun ever. And for anyone who thinks they'll like my guns better now, they shoot as far as my BBBB.
-Trying to dodge civilians all damn day.
-Umpa's 1500s are super cool, even though the weather was too cool for 'em.
-"Damn, my barrel!"
-Unholy carpet of darts. I'm glad I made extra.
-Me, Umpa, and Pheylan all get my Badass Seal of Approval. The rest of you will have to redeem yourselves.
-Umpa's darts buzzing toward me like little robotic bees. at WiNCNO, I will only be allowing slug darts and single BBs.
-Getting a shit ton of cool kills, including a bunch of double kills.
-Level shots on moving targets that required 5-6' of windage.

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