I dressed up as a stormtrooper for a 10 year old's birthday party. Naturally I brought my (black + white, ARs totally removed) longshot as a prop, with a 12-dart magazine. When I put it down, a 7 year old apparently thought they knew how clip system blasters worked, so he kept racking the prime back and forth, wondering why it didn't shoot. I finally got a hold of it at pulled out the magazine, only to realise that 6 darts had somehow been fed into the breech. The gun was kinda incapable of movement at that point, but I happened to pull the trigger, and out popped a dart. I primaed and fired again, and out popped another dart, and another. And another.

ok now that is a little cool

But the test needs the darts loosely connected. We need them each to be free to fly badly individually, so that these tendencies can be combined into a hopefully perfect average.

that is what I plan on doing next

Oh crap, I forgot! It is crucial that the blaster's position is as identical compared to the paper between shots as possible! That means you want the target always in the same spot, and the blaster either placed against a marked bit of a furniture or even caught in a vice if you have one. Otherwise, I can't tell how much of the result is inconsistent shooting and how much is our trick.

thanks and also I have made a slug for the Sledge fire the string is threaded though the 3 darts and then tightly knotted the string so the darts were really close the range on the slug is better than stock and I plan on improving the seal and spring for the blaster 

Not sure, but between chalk dust, stamp ink pads, or bottled ink it should work. Food coloring might do, even!

ok cool

another question what do I use as ink for the darts

can I ask for revision?
CT Nerf is "Ultra stock" and is closer to new haven

you formatted it wrong

Hmm, let's see. First, we need the bullet. Get each of the three shots' tips tied to a thin thread, and to a shared knot, like, 2 or 3 cm of thread between the center knot and each tip. Key here is that the string length is as identical as possible for each of the shots: you need perfect 3-side symmetry.

On the actual test, there's two ways about it. One is to set a camera, shoot at a wall several times (some vanilla, some with the tied shot) from behind the camera, send me the video and I'll do the math. Option two, dip the tips in ink, use a white surface, take photos of it after each shot, clean it, repeat, send me the pics and I do the math. Option 3, pick a target, try it several times stringed and not,check what feels better

thnx

though I do have a question how do I set this up?

Awesome! Here I was, having written off the experiment, and you're making it happen! Thanks, bud!

your welcome and it's YOU who is making it happen by coming up with the idea of it

Anyone here have one to try it out?

yes I have one and ill try it out as soon as I can

use the sledge fire the shell has enough space at the top to allow a string to pass to each dart you see

 

With better pictures, we might be able to help. Specifically if there are other numbers, like "2A" or similar.  But I strongly doubt that switch is going to be able to handle more than a couple of Amperes.  Even oooold drives wouldn't require more than a hundred watts or so.

it had 8A and 10A

I recently took apart a old DVD player and found out that the on/off switch is similar to a switch used in a top shelf mod I plan on putting my switch into my modded rayven but I am not going to do that until I know if it can handle a 3S LiPo and how to install it into my rayven here is a picture of the switch the switch says 250 V 

I use Raytheon waffle head darts they are great and not to bad of price I ordered 2 packs of 300 for about $11 dollars each

color blue = PHYCOLOGICAL WARFARE!!!!!!

NOTE: Yes, I know that it's very, VERY unlikely that someone will catch a dart you fire at them, this is more or less just a topic I want some opinions on.

So, let's say that you fire a dart at someone in a war and they, by some miracle of the gods, manage to catch it before it hits them. Since it touched their hand, does it count as a tag? Or since they stopped the dart by grabbing it, does that count as a block?

What about if the dart would have missed but they catch it? Does that change anything?

Let me know what you think about this situation.

it is not by some miracle of the gods it is. By some Herculean leap in logic that us meer mortals can't even HOPE to comprehend

i have this problem with elites and for the first time Raytheon darts where i prime and the dart folds in on itself in the barrel i easily remove the dart but I don't know what causes this I assume it is the dart tooth but people tell me it is the breech

my first mod was a maverick

I might be able to make this problem a lot simpler have sets IR receivers and transceivers a set for the y axis and a set for the x axis have them hooked up to a computer then have the IR sensors flush to a wall and fire the darts at the wall when a signal is interrupted by a dart it will show up as a point on a grid program then that way you don't have to worry about complicated set ups and you don't have to spend a lot of money you just need 2 busted DVD players and their remotes and extract the sensors the sensor in the DVD players are receivers and the sensors in the remotes are transceivers 

If the screw heads are flat, chances are you'll need to drill them out, Find a bit that's about the size of the screw threads and go slow.

 

How slow? Slooooww. Slow than that, Don't get impatient. Use a drill, not a Dremel-like tool. The drill motor will tell you if you go too fast. It may take u to a half hour to remove one screw. The fact that they're rusted will help. If you go too fast you'll melt the plastic and ruin the post. If it happens once or twice it's not a huge deal but the shell won't be as strong. If you're just opening it once for a repair and don't plan on opening it ever again you can drop some devcon at those points.

i used a drill and it took me like 5-10 minutes to remove a stripped screw from my raven

EINC (Eastern Iowa Nerf Club)

Cedar falls/Waterloo and surrounding towns

super stock?

meow121325, 22rondnath@dnhcsd.org, u/meow121325,

Is the war still on, or not because of the snow storm?

yes the war is still on because it is on march 11th like the topic title says

i am hosting a nerf war in Iowa it is on the 11th of march from noon to 2:00pm modded stuff is free game but hard tipped darts are not allowed accept little valentines. if you are going to come I will need your first name and age. here is the link to the topic http://nerfhaven.com...pm/#entry362442

My personal experience has been that AR removals on the StrongArm and FlipFury are largely unnecessary. In fact, air restrictectomies on Elite and XD-Elite blasters often have a negative impact on performance, which is in direct conflict with advice the NIC has traditionally provided about removing air restrictors.

 

To unravel this mystery, you need to understand what the AR is actually doing. The key is the length of the AR posts. Not the dart post, the fingers on the AR itself. Typically there are three. The length of these fingers determine how long the AR remains open while the plunger descends down the plunger tube and the dart moves forward. The longer the posts, the more energy gets transferred into the barrel, and by extension to the dart.

 

Older N-Strike blasters typically have relatively short AR posts. As a result, a smaller amount of air is transferred into the barrel before the AR closes, often before the dart has exited the barrel. Translation: shorter range.  On newer blasters like Elite and XD-Elite, the AR posts are longer. This allows more air from the plunger tube to push the dart forward. As a result, you get better ranges and better velocities.

 

The second part in understanding this phenomenon is realizing that shortly after a dart has exited the barrel, the transfer of energy to the dart effectively stops.  For instance, you could have a blaster with a 9 foot plunger tube. But once a dart has exited the barrel, the remaining air and kinetic energy of the spring is lost. It just dissipates into the space behind the dart as it moves ever forward. For clarification, when I say "barrel" I mean the part of the cylinder/breech/chamber that has direct contact with the dart and is responsible for transferring kinetic energy to the dart itself. Faux barrels and Nerf barrel extensions be damned. That's a whole 'nother conversation.

 

As it turns out, when you remove the AR from older blasters, you allow more air from the plunger tube to push the dart out of the barrel. As a result, you see a dramatic increase in the performance.  But in newer blasters, the length of the AR posts is more closely tuned to the length of the barrel.  All of the air that can propel the dart forward is being released while the AR is still open. Effectively, the air restrictor is now functioning as a brake for the plunger, gently gliding it to rest at the bottom of the plunger tube after the dart has exited.

 

Hasbro's initial design for the Air Restrictor was to limit the performance of blasters.  But over time it has morphed into a way to extend the life of the blaster and improve performance. A subtle, but distinct difference. The folks who advocate for removing the AR on older yellow N-Strike blasters are correct. But the folks that say leave them intact on Elite/XD-Elite blasters are also correct. For entirely different reasons.

the exception to this rule is the zombie strike double strike and other smart AR post elite blasters i modded my double strike and i removed the smart AR (pain the butt btw) then i corked the 2nd barrel and minimized the dead space and i got a great performance boost (note i only recommend a smart AR removal on blasters that are like the double strike capacity wise)

 

And feeding darts into the cage... how? If you want a semi-auto you need to move basically the whole demo into the retal. If not, yeah you can just slap the cage on the front and call it a day.

i'm planning on feeding the darts with the retal mag well and putting the cage into the space on the front and find a way to add the demo pusher and rev trigger mechanics and putting a drone lipo into the stock attachment point hence why i was wondering if I could put the retal barrel attachment/chamber/dart tooth into the longshot and cutting the longshot down

Would it be possible to move it to the 11th? My friend could not make it on the 10th.

sure

right now 6 but more might come 

game modes are going to be: human vs zombies (HVZ), team death match (TDM), free for all (FFA), King of the hill (KTH), capture the flag (CTF), and kill confirmed (KC)

rules: face shots don't count head shots do though, zombies if hit have to stand with their hand in the air for 3 minutes, if hit in any game mode except FFA you have to go to base and wait till match end in FFA you have to raise your hand and stay where you died, in kill confirmed you will be given a few flags when you die you will drop a flag if you lose all flags your out, for KTH you have to stay at the "hill" for 2 minutes, for CTF you have to capture the enemy flag and bring it back to your flag.

P.S. we are for sure playing TDM, FFA, and CTF at this war

Question is your grandmother going to be playing?

yes and time change it is going to be the 10th of march same time but different day and my friend Micah is coming he is 14

My name is Nathaniel, I'm 13 and my grandmother and my sister are coming my sister's name is Angelina and she is 12 my grandmother's name is Diane and she is 54

hey im also working on a demolisher internals integration on the shell of the dead retaliator any suggestions on how and where to place the pusher mech

hey I need your first name and age just to make sure that you are the same person here as you are IRL when the war rolls around I'll give my name and age after you do and if you have guys coming have their first names and ages too please

i am just going to get a brass breach

i am going to host a nerf war at island park cedar falls and i was wondering if anyone is in the cedar falls area that flings foam and doesn't mind bringing their own darts and maybe even start a nerf group in iowa

im at school right now and ill have to check when i get home