An airtank woth a barrel and button firing pin* could work.
*term used loosely, can't think of the correct term for a button like the one on the XBZ.

I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in here. Once an accurate scan is made of an external shell component is made it could be used with resin to cast a block of resin with an outer pattern on it. That could then be inserted in to pre-made fixture and spots could be machined in place relatively quickly and inexpensively. If you make the inside a blank canvas so to speak, you could drop in internals which are "self-contained" and can be swapped in place easily. At least that's one method I am thinking of. Another is injection molding. If you have a relatively simple design the mold is not nearly as expensive. It gets expensive when you need all kinds of ejector pins, super high tolerances, and fancy designs. I work in a shop that makes molds for injection molding as well as does them. From my experience, this is what creates cost very fast. I have seen pieces the size of an eraser cost 200$ each, and there are 16 of them in some molds. Bottom line is injection molding IS a possibility if you plan ahead.

Hehe, it sounds like you live up to your name. In your experience, how much would you estimate a mold of 4 very basic Retaliator size shell halves would cost? No screw holes, minimal nooks/crannies, and comparable thickness to nerf shells.

 

What we really need is to get HeartFox(x?)Nerf in on this conversation. He/she has already printed a crossbow stock, and not only that, but made it able to go onto stock blasters and added attachment pieces. Printing a shell piece by piece, like the OP post, could make printing viable. That said, a job like that begs someone who is willing to do a nightmare's worth of modeling and trial and error.
 

In a triad, you would need a massive spring and perfect seal if you just removed the ARs. You mught as well make a small homemade that has a Nitefinder size plunger, and one barrel that has 3 darts.

To answer your second question, yes. However, do your research, you've been around long enough to know that.

Why add leak holes? We're not making toys for little kids, are we? That's the reason for how ventilated the Dualstrike is.

Because something shooting megas at competitive speeds for NIC wars would probably destroy stock darts.

Not sure how easily the inside of a shell could be compatible with different styles of internals, but I like where that's heading. Big ideas, crazy ideas are some of the best ones. As seen on the centurion, micro mag well installation is possible. What I'm wondering however, is the practical application of this. Are we talking about a blaster people just buy and select their parts, and have a blaster ready to build shipped to them? Are we talking about stock caliber, when talking about elites and megas as you mentioned, or NIC style like some of the others?

I was thinking a Dualstrike type system, with the capability to fire megas and stock caliber darts depending on the barrel. Of course, leak holes might need to be installed for shooting elites.

For handles could likely use a take away from certain nerf guns and have those portions of the shell removable while the trigger system or any other stays totally in place.

Yeah, like a base plunger system with a priming mech and barrel as the base, then handles, stocks, barrel extensions, etc could be added as modular pieces. Maybe even a magwell could be a piece if the base part had a breech.

The green circle on the end, that you put in first.
Edit: the end of the chain.

Mine had that problem too, so I sat down and modded the chain. Took out dart posts, then opened the green thingy that goes in first and filled it with hot glue and bbs. Never had that problem again.
Sidenote: I haven't tested mine on batteries.

Probably better to ask this on an airsoft forum, or just go through reviews on amazon and whatnot. Most of the people on this forum are only involved with nerf.

Blastzooka goes perfectly into a recon shell, can use the orig trigger, and needs minimal shell cutting. Barrel can be cut stock or replaced.

What about just a very basic shell? I don't know if that's what spud is talking about, but just a shell with no inside ridges or anything. Then people could simply put their desired internals inside.

If you want, I can send pics of the original vortex tornado, I think they function the same way.

I can also try to post some pics of my project if anyone's curious.

I certainly am, that method of stock extension sounds very interesting.

If you already have the velcro/whistler darts, a 2 1/2 blowgun made of 1/2 inch PVC should be great. I have a 3 1/2 foot one I sometimes mess around with that has good grouping and range, and no one should be suspicious of anything like a short white plastic pipe.

Okay. Well since I started this thread, it only seems appropriate that I update it. 
 
My Sentinel and Zeus came in the mail a few days ago.  A few comments about them.
 
First the Sentinel.  I'm going to admit, I'm slightly disappointed with this blaster.
 
When I opened the box, the design seemed cheap and flimsy. Not a huge deal, as I anticipated this. That can be dealt with if one were motivated to do so. 
 
When I fired it, it became clear that comments about its power and rage were not baseless. It certainly has
that going for it.
 
The main issue is the accuracy/consistency of the shots. I set up small lotion tubes on the fireplace mantle, and took some well controlled shots from a distance of 15 feet away.  After firing the entire magazine, none of the shots hit, even when I shifted my point of aim to adjust for apparent trajectory, the darts still wouldn't travel in a consistent enough path to land any hits.  For comparison, I picked up my Jolt, and fired from the same position. I hit my targets 17 out of 20 shots. 
 
The last issue is that my Sentinel is very jam prone. Not only is the blaster touchy, as it can be difficult to work the action, but I've had several jams where darts got mangled inside the blaster. Perhaps this is just a poor model I received, or the design is just lackluster.
 
My Jolt outperformed the Sentinel in terms of accuracy. Perhaps someone should build a platform around the Jolt instead.   It does go to illustrate the fact that, much like in real deal firearms, power and velocity are not necessarily synonymous with accuracy.  In fact, in many real rifles, the more accurate target shooters fire lower velocity ammunition rather than higher. 

I would guess your sentinel was a lemon (anomaly). Also, have you tried switchjng ammunition types? Or using alternate darts? The sentinel is sometimes seen as inaccurate when using elite darts, which are not accurate themselves. Fvjs, slugs, koosh, and other homemade/alternate darts are much more accurate than elites or large suctions. Also, Jolts are excellent firing well made glue domes.

Thanks, if you have ever done a mod like this that needs a new catch spring, what pen brand would you use? Now finally one more question: If I made it 5 kg spring would I have to upgrade the catch spring?

Brand doesn't particularly matter as long as the spring is stronger, I just use the cheapest mechanical pencils I can find at walmart or whatever I don't have to pay for. A 5 kg spring PROBABLY doesn't need a better catch dpring, but I don't have experience with 5 kgs.

Paint works, purple is fave color. Lotsa royal people agreed with me.

Thanks so much, if I add the 8 kg spring will I need to upgrade anything else other than the catch spring like the catch its self? Also, 1/2 pvc is like what u rebarrel a bigashock, right? Finally is there a way to purchase a catch spring? A link would be appreciated.

The material used to rebarrel bigshocks(or any blaster to take elite size darts) is 1/2 inch CPVC, which fits into 1/2 PVC (usually). Catch springs can be bought online somewhere like mcmasster or orangemodworks kits (sorry, no link), or taken from pens and things. The catch *italics*should*italics* be strong enough unless it was damaged or stressed by something.

Thank guys!
 
I will probably end up using e-6000 then, um, one question though, how fast does e-6000 cure? (When nesting PETG)

Minimum of 24 hours, possibly up to 72 hours (google is a friendly guy).

Homemades.

My 5 minute jury rigged pump-action retaliator.

Boomco is neither dead nor dying... Modified, using boomco straws, I think they are superior to stock and lightly modified Nerf brand blasters.

Yeah, as 2BB says, the Buzz Bee XtremeBlastZooka. It has one of the best performance-to-size ratios out there, and is still for sale.

Still for sale? Where? I have one, but I would like more.

On what blaster...? Also, dart holders are one thing, but what's a "barrel mount"

You could hot glue those little poofy ball things onto the tips, but accuracy would not be 8/8. That would also allow for super powered blasters

great write-up.  Something i would like to try is cutting off the front part in front of the dart holder to kind of even out the proportions.  Thanks for the write-up. PS how are you in members if you have only 4 posts?

I don't exactly know how the member system works, but it did the same for me. I think a good post like this qualifies you as a member in my eyes. But yeah, I do thing the front bit could be cut off.

What's that sound? Oh... It's the sound of cintage blaster shell prices everywhere dropping. Both a good thing and a bad thing, but I think it's great! Expensive platforms can now be made and sold for much cheaper than the real thing. Only downside is collector prices, but still not super bad.

Alright, please don't suspend/ban me for seeming like a scam, but a while ago I bought a bunch of steam codes. I have only used some of them. They are cheap like, $5-$10 games but hey, I'm giving them away! PM me if interested.

I pm'ed you a week ago.

If you got that from an aeg, I belive you could convert it to shoot nerf darts.

Cpvc'ed firestrike/any other frontloader, brassed hammershot/sttongarm.

That perfect for my cousins who don't call their hits. Edit, also, if the hole is not there, it would be more accurate, right.

Right. Problem is, if they don't have a hole anywhere then they cannot compress, causing-yup, you guessed it- pain.

Hardware stores, electronic places like radioshack, maybe hobby shops.

Looks like a lock, so prob not required. Throw it back together without it and test it. If it doesn't work, then I don't know.

1. Other than online, not many places carry suitable lipos. Maybe hobby shops?
2. Completely depends on motors and power delivery. Kinda rare though.
3. You probably will have to rewire it to get any useful amount of performance gain. A 3s lipo likes 18 gauge wire. Some shell work to house the battery will probably be required.

Do you have any spinfire rings to compare the ranges?  Real spinfire rings are airfoils and taper at the back end.  They are also made up of two different durometers of silicone, one for the front portion and one for the body of the ring.  This gives the rings rigidity and stability in flight, as well as a softer material to take the impact of whatever you fire it at.  

Yes, I said that both in the topic post and my reply to 2ndbluesbro. They are essentially the same in terms of performance.

Amazing. How do they perform vs. the OG rings and how cheaply do you think these could be made?

Forgot to mention that in the topic (: . They perform almost identically, but a couple of my homemade rings consistenly go off course. I think that is due to bad tape application. They do hurt a little bit more, as they are slightly heavier amd reach completely identical ranges( no exaggeration, I just went outside to make sure and they all landed within 5 feet of each other). To answer your second question, producing these on a very large scale could become "expensive". Ordering 100 blank, hot pink, 1/2 inch, silicone wristbands costs 73.99 minimum before shipping(but you get an extra 100). 73 cents per ring isn't super bad, especially compared to genuine rings, but they come out to ~80 cents each after time and tape. Not bad, but not great. On a small scale however, you can easily keep all the bands you will inevitably get at events makes this almost free when you are just making a few.

Homemade rings write up

Recently, I thrifted a koosh vortex tornado missing it's sight but with it's original rings for 50 cents. I had 4 rings, but I wanted more(as always) so I made some. Disclaimer: no, this is not my original idea. Someone in the thread on making these from tape suggested using promo bands. This idea was not explored, however, until I did.
Here is a pic of what the rings will look like when you finish.
Picture at bottom
Pretty, right? No? Well, they work.
The materials you will need are as follows: Scissors, a measuring tool, rubber bracelets, scotch tape, and a heating tool(heat gun, lighter, stove, hot glue gun tip, etc.).
Pic at bottom
The first step is to cut one horizontally. Nothing too complicated here, just a simple, straight cut will do.
Then, measure and cut the band to ~5.7 inches, or 14 cm. Again, just a simple cut.
The third step is to cut a piece of tape approximately 3 inches, depending on the thickness of your bands. Wrap this around the two ends until you have 3 layers of scotch tape, and make sure it is firmly wrapped so it will stay in place while you heat it. You could stop here, if you want fragile and easily destroyed rings, but you shouldn't.
Finally, use the heating tool on the tape to get it to shrink into itself and really bond the ends together, greatly increasing the durability of your rings. This might take some practice, as the tape likes to shrink very fast.
That's my writeup on my homemade koosh vortex rings for ya. Hope my first topic was a good one.

1. Clean up your grammar, mods around here don't like that.
2. The SENC might let you join if you are a regular participant, and depending on how far north you are.

The front reminds me of a minimized nitefinder. Attach a swarm fire stock and use a piece of PVC covering the priming rod and with an end cap to mimic the slide.

That actually sounds perfect. Replacing the nitefinder handle with a mav handle could also help, and the entire design could be resemble the performance of a nitefider with homemade internals as the pvc could be used as a plunger.