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#356351 Battery tray issue

Posted by DjOnslaught on 20 October 2016 - 11:26 AM in General Nerf

It sounds like the springs have shrunk from over-voltage by using IMR or Trustfire batteries. Bummer. But then again, you can turn this fiasco into something amazing!
   LiPo batteries are great for total re-hauls. Make sure to balance out your blaster; give it new motors, put in wiring that supports the high electrical current that the motors pull and battery supplies.  It is also highly advisable to replace the switch if you haven't ready done that. 
   When going LiPo, make sure you take proper safety precautions by researching how to charge, discharge, and store the battery. Re-hauling a blaster for high discharge power sources (like a LiPo battery) takes a lot of effort and knowledge, handiwork and tools, patience, and great responsibility. Watch a ton of YouTube videos to see the different types of LiPo modifications people are doing and how they do them. Do they have any follow up videos on how they could improve their creations? Watch those. You may call me a foll, but look at the comments section below the video. Most of it is flack, but there may be some gold in there if you sift around a bit. You may also want to take a community college electronics class to familiarize yourself with some of the terminology and maybe help out some of your fellow modders (Hi, that's me!). It's always a good idea to research the mod you want to do, that way you can either avoid or prepare for travesties, tragedies, and tough decisions.

Good luck! We're here for you if you have any more questions (just make sure to ask them in the right place).


It's already been rewired in 18ga, has a new 16a 250v microswitch with rhino 130 motors in the cage. As for the rest, I have 12 years of electronics diagnostics and repair under my belt (and still made the mistake that caused this) so if you ever have any questions feel free to pm me.

I've actually watched alot of mod videos from several different sources so I have a good grasp on the battery install and have begun my research on the best lipo. I know I want 1000mAH and at a minimum 25c I just need to find on that fits the rayven battery tray is all.



#356340 3s Lipo connecters good enough for modded stampede?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 19 October 2016 - 08:03 AM in Modifications

*facepalm*
Sorry about that, my bad, but will the connectors provided be good enough?


If you know the draw of your modded stampede, you should be able to find specs on the connector on the lipo either threw the manufacturer of the batteries website or by posting a picture of the connector on this thread and finding out if it is a XT60 or something else and research it from there.



#356306 Battery tray issue

Posted by DjOnslaught on 17 October 2016 - 02:43 PM in General Nerf

If you can't find a way to fix it my strayven runs off a lipo so I could gut the metal pieces in the Rayven battery tray if you pay for shipping.


Few guys in my nerf group informed me they were swapping to lipo and I had been considering it, so that's likely what's gonna happen now. It should be as easy as a desolder of the wire connected to the terminals, bending them flat (parallel with the rest of the contact) and slipping them out, then shaving the tray accordingly to fit.



#356298 Battery tray issue

Posted by DjOnslaught on 17 October 2016 - 08:32 AM in General Nerf

In my rayven a while back I shorted the springs in the battery try and they lost there extension properties... anyone know how to restore them so my batteries aren't loone anymore?



#356268 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 15 October 2016 - 04:04 PM in General Nerf

that second port at the tank is what used to go to the "pressure gauge" on the titan, it is at tank pressure and you need to plug it.  or if its at a better angle use that instead. 


I'm using the connector that's at a 90deg coming out of the tank. The straight one is the one I'm gonna plug. I'll have to figure a good way to do so.



#356163 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 08 October 2016 - 07:48 AM in General Nerf

titan tanks don't have a built in OPRV, only the pump, so what you're probably hearing is a leak from you just holding the tank on. you'll have to be smart about how many pumps you put in or purchase an external OPRV to put in the system. 
 
the fitting you're looking for is this, commonly called a hose barb fitting. they come in lots of different styles, sizes and materials; find the size of tubing you want to use and match it to the correct size hose barb. glue one to the tank inlet and one into the bike pump's hole, if they're a double ended one like that you can cut them down to be a more manageable length for what you need. now you can change the length of hose whenever you need to and they'll stay on tight, they will blow off under very high pressure so you can put a zip tie or hose clamp around them if you'd like or you can use the hose blowing off as a safety measure to not blow your tank. hope it helps.


The link helps alot I may have used the phrase OPRV in error. It's the second fitting coming out of the back of the Titan tank. It's going into a spectre shell with the pump mounted under the tank actually (which has been a challenge in and of itself) so will only need roughly 1-2 inches of hose if that. (Gonna try and use the original hose from the Titan)



#356155 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 07 October 2016 - 11:19 AM in General Nerf

 
OH, yeah, a barbed fitting is probably what you want. Maybe also with a hose clamp. Be warned though - that hose connection will fail before the tank does unless you get it on there right.


That's why I wanna make sure I use the right kinda fitting to go from the pump to the hose.. the pump I'm using trips the OPRV on the Titan (with the hose manually held in place right now) in 2 pumps... I don't wanna plug that if I can help it



#356134 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 06 October 2016 - 05:03 AM in General Nerf

A stem? Like a schrader valve typically found on a bike tire that a bike pump can readily attach to? Or something else


The stem to push the vinyl tubing down on and have it hold it, what ever that would be called. I'm trying not to glue to the tube or the pump incase I need to eventually replace a part.



#356123 The Modding Mistakes Thread

Posted by DjOnslaught on 05 October 2016 - 07:11 PM in Modifications

Trying to be gentle and breaking tabs off of motors you thought you fully desoldered and had not.

Not triple checking the battery housing of a rapid strike and fusing the batteries to the tray because a piece of wire slipped in and caused a short



#356122 Your thoughts on the Accustrike darts?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 05 October 2016 - 07:08 PM in Darts and Barrels

I think they will wobble horrendously out of any sort of canted flywheel cage.



#356089 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 04 October 2016 - 05:03 PM in General Nerf

Epoxy *glue*, not putty. That'll probably fail to hold air, and might crack under pressure. Find a pressure-suitable friendly-to-your-materials adhesive.


What about a stem then so I can easily replace the tube if something happens, any suggestion?



#356088 How to control a blaster with Arduino

Posted by DjOnslaught on 04 October 2016 - 04:56 PM in Homemades

Could you control a stampede with arduino


Yes very easily. There is one in the mod category done by Kingbob. He did amazing things



#356087 Modding a RapidStrike, Battery/Motor Help

Posted by DjOnslaught on 04 October 2016 - 04:52 PM in Modifications

Or just don't upgrade the pusher motor and leave it stock and use 180s or rhinos on the flywheel motors.



#356042 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 27 September 2016 - 02:32 PM in General Nerf

OK epoxy putty it is then. Thanks guys, your both awesome



#356038 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 27 September 2016 - 10:57 AM in General Nerf

do you want to be able to use that pump for other things? if so purchase a tire stem valve and find tubing that fits inside there and then over the fitting on the titan tank. if not just jam some tubing inside the pump hole and glue it up. 


It's just for this project, I wouldn't even know what stem valve to get regardless so just put the tubing in and hot glue it? Or do you recommend a different glue?



#356011 Bike pump titan tank

Posted by DjOnslaught on 26 September 2016 - 04:47 AM in General Nerf

I recently got a small bike pump I want to use to pump up a titan tank, but I am unsure what fitting it would require to utilize the vinyl tubing needed.

This is the pump I want to use.
Topeak Mini G MasterBlaster Bike Pump with Gauge https://www.amazon.c...a_q6o6xbVK24DJ0

Thanks in advance.



#355944 Nerf stampede mod help

Posted by DjOnslaught on 22 September 2016 - 01:53 PM in Modifications

Be a very tight fit, but it would fit.



#355857 Caliburn: Mag-fed Pump-action Springer

Posted by DjOnslaught on 20 September 2016 - 08:23 AM in Homemades

That magwell loops awesome, is that a separate piece or part of the lower receiver?



#355807 Stryfe Kriss Vector Kit, Paint, and Internals Mod "Kookies 'n

Posted by DjOnslaught on 25 August 2016 - 06:15 PM in Modifications

I'm running rhino 130s on and 14500 imrs and I can run 2 batteries for solid performance. 3 is insane.



#355737 PCSR: A new homemade design

Posted by DjOnslaught on 23 August 2016 - 01:20 PM in Homemades

It's in one piece. Sorry for the shit photo. I'll take more tonight.
pcsr_08.jpg


I really dig the look of the blaster Slug



#355736 Found 180 Motors in dead RC helicopter

Posted by DjOnslaught on 23 August 2016 - 01:18 PM in General Nerf

Don't gut it unless you are going to do shell modifications to accept the 180 motors then it's not worth it.



#355727 spring-loaded magazines

Posted by DjOnslaught on 23 August 2016 - 04:51 AM in Darts and Barrels

Keeping darts in revolver type cylinders isn't great, since it slightly deforms the darts over time.This leads the darts sliding out of the cylinder and reduced power. At least this was the case with older blasters, like the Spectre and Maverick. I assume the same still applies with more modern cylinder Nerf blasters, but I could be wrong.


Also you could jack up the AR springs, if you left them in that is.



#355699 spring-loaded magazines

Posted by DjOnslaught on 22 August 2016 - 08:11 AM in Darts and Barrels

Springs only fatigue over time if you're compressing them well beyond their elastic limits (their fully compressed or fully stressed maximum). The springs in Nerf magazines are compound-leg torsion springs and are not going anywhere near their elastic limit when the follower is bottomed out.
 
It's only bad for your darts.


Exactly what Slug said as far as nerf mags go, there is also the mod linked above, and a new dart zone blaster with a swappable turret (even comes with the second one) and those are nerf compatible far as I know.



#355692 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 22 August 2016 - 04:44 AM in Modifications

Use a larger head screw and a washer one the back side should rescue that plate no problem. The thing is you could have flipped that switch 90 degrees and not had to cut the plate.

I will try and get a pic when I get home tonight of what I mean



#355687 Nerf Gun Jamming Help Please!

Posted by DjOnslaught on 21 August 2016 - 06:43 PM in General Nerf

Make sure your getting a full prime on the blaster, if that doesn't fix it try What 2nd blues said

Love the deploy btw. It's only crappy because of the collapsability gimmick



#355683 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 21 August 2016 - 03:01 PM in Modifications

 
I do most of my nerfing during HvZ at my college. It's at UMBC on Mondays and Thursdays at 7 if you ever want to come by. We have a larger invitational event in the spring as well.
 
Would certainly like to go to Apoc one day though.


The southern md house of nerf does monthly battles anyone in the area is welcome.



#355682 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 21 August 2016 - 02:57 PM in Modifications

I haven't had a problem using hot glue to hold in a microswitch either, as long as the I modified the shells so that they were both "sandwiching" the microswitch with the hot glue merely acting like something to hold it in place for the shells to do their work.


That's how I did it too in my rayven



#355679 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 21 August 2016 - 01:14 PM in Modifications

 
I went to this war (in Waldorf, MD) and had a blast, but not with my Stryfe.  During round 1, I learned the hard way that I shouldn't use hot glue to secure a microswitch.  Fortunately, I had a secondary.  I fought the entire war with my Strongarm and two pockets full of rolled up socks.


I've had zero issues with hot glue holding micro switches. What happened to yours? Daniel (the head of the group, might have been able to help also)



#355586 My mods I work on for some clients

Posted by DjOnslaught on 17 August 2016 - 11:33 AM in Modifications

I'm curious why you left yhe false trigger switch off the rapidstrike?



#355582 Modding a Modulus, suggestions on motor and lipo?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 17 August 2016 - 09:51 AM in Modifications

Welcome to nerf haven. Unless your trying to do full auto a esc is not needed. For motors get Rhino 130's and find a 2s or 3s lipo and your good. Get some 16amp microswitch for the rev trigger to decrease spin up time on the motors and you'll be fine.

I recommend 18AWG silicone insulated wire for its flexibility and make sure it's stranded for better current utility and lower resistance.



#355579 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 17 August 2016 - 06:47 AM in Modifications

You're very welcome!  I remember about a year or two ago I looked at a long list of CAD software and tried to pick out the "best" one.  I have chosen wisely.
 
It looks like I'll only be able to work on the design on the weekends, so I will be curious to find out how other people improve it.
 
MAV and DjOnslaught, I wonder when the next war in Maryland will be. Baltimore, NYC, the NJ shore, and York, PA are all within a 2 hour drive from Trevose, PA.


Look up southern md house of nerf on facebook they have a war this saturday



#355559 Custom Motor Cage

Posted by DjOnslaught on 16 August 2016 - 04:49 AM in Modifications

 
 
Thanks guys..
 
Not sure whats wrong with fly wheel blasters other than the sound.

I have some plunger ones but i'd take an auto one any day .. with a plunger one you have one shot then you have to cock it and that throws of your aim.. Auto you  just fling them till you hit them... Also much easier when your on the move shooting with one hand  


And arduino will do exactly what you want, minus the trigger part. That's caused by the rev switch mechanism, unless your really confident with your modding skills I would just let that be.



#355536 Aluminum parts

Posted by DjOnslaught on 15 August 2016 - 05:00 AM in Modifications

Thanks Slug. I'm out of town this weekend, but I will get to work on CAD when I get back, maybe even possibly during the six hour drive.

Is there anyone out there with a decent longshot sled file that I could borrow for one or two prints? I would like to make a test and have someone put it through a bunch of rounds with a modded blaster before I go saying I can make them. I can take almost any format, but as I said, stl's are easiest.


Ifor you shoot me a list of part your interested in doing files for I can see about sending them to you if I have the blaster. I know I have a longshot I can send you the bolt sled for if needed.



#355535 Modifying a Mega Mastodon

Posted by DjOnslaught on 15 August 2016 - 03:19 AM in Modifications

Why not just print an adapter for the original motor to be usable? The only way it might work would be with fewer teeth on the one gear since that gear is what controls the pusher going forward.



#355534 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 15 August 2016 - 03:15 AM in Modifications

If I'm not mistaken you should have only used the brass at the ejection site of the dart out of the flywheels, not threw the entire length of the cage.



#355520 Aluminum parts

Posted by DjOnslaught on 13 August 2016 - 09:14 AM in Modifications

What kinda files do you need? You mean like a stp file drawing done in cad or something?



#355487 Aluminum parts

Posted by DjOnslaught on 11 August 2016 - 04:43 AM in Modifications

Nobody said LEVER 4B triggers yet?
It's not hard to put in a lever 4B trigger, but to have a durable aluminum would probably be great. Maybe hold off on that, as Crafstman is working on that. 
4B alu tanks would be cool too, or any tank really as it'd be way more durable, though I understand making a tank would be very time consuming and probably expensive.

LS and ret bolt sleds would be great, along with flywheel cages but Brad has them at available roboman.net and I believe plans on continuing them. I think you can drop in any Dr. Snikkas cage into any flywheel, and it works. While Superstock and HVZ has more profit, I'm not sure what you'd really make. I personally would love aluminum rainbow catch pieces but than you gotta upgrade the catch


Also, curious what an E&C Nerfer is. 


Last I looked the snikkas cages are blaster specific, unless he changed that. I know you can't put a stryfe cage in a rayven for example, and I'm pretty sure you can't easily drop a stryfe cage in a rapidstrike.



#355466 Aluminum parts

Posted by DjOnslaught on 10 August 2016 - 06:37 AM in Modifications

Metal gears are already on taobao and worker makes extended pusher rods for any blaster that requires one, plus the pushers don't need to be metal. Plastic is lighter and more suitable.


He asked about parts so I mentioned ones I thought would be good. I have yet to see a worker rayven pusher rod replacement.



#355448 Aluminum parts

Posted by DjOnslaught on 09 August 2016 - 02:44 PM in Modifications

How about gears for things like roughcut and sling fire? Metal pusher rods to use with after market darts since most need to be modded to use them (if I'm not mistaken)



#355447 Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

Posted by DjOnslaught on 09 August 2016 - 02:41 PM in Modifications

My big question is why did you need the relay? Was it because of the motor being a size above 130 (appear to be 180s maybe) or is it cause of your battery?