Measured them, they're 9.5x13mm.

Heres 2 on the back of my Rayven.

Hmm, I wonder how small an OLED i can find... i know some are 0.96", might fit

Counting up is far simpler because it doesnt require knowing the size of the magazine to set the initial value.

 

Of course then its a matter of stopping it counting at the right value. Otherwise if you keep pulling the trigger it'd keep counting.

 

The 7 segment displays i used are about 18mm high from memory, they're the smallest i could find.

Yeah i use an internal switch to sense insertion. Actually repurposed one of the existing lock switches.

I think I'll just use a separate power source from the flywheel power source to keep things simple.

 Use one power source, but use something like this to get a separate voltage for the pusher..

http://www.sainsmart...-1-23v-30v.html

I've modded a Rapidstrike and im working on a Hyperfire, so of the 2 i'd go the Hyperfire for the amount of stuff you want to cram into it. It has a good amount of empty space in the orange section at the front, and if you cut out the insides of the battery box, you'll get a huge chunk of room in the rear too.

 

Theres not a lot of empty space in a Rapidstrike at all.

Typically you're going to have to design most models yourself. I found very models for the parts i wanted to print on mine.

A good set of calipers to measure, and i tend to use Sketchup to draw parts.

Hi All

 

I was going to order a couple of airsoft scope accessories for the tacticool look, since they look better, and can be cheaper than the Nerf brand plastic parts.

 

But they obviously they're for "real" gun mounts such as picatinny and weaver rails. Are any of those directly compatible with Nerf rails?

I know I can buy picatinny rails in various lengths and bolt them on, but i'd rather not add extra parts if i can avoid it.

 

Thanks.

Could be a wiring issue, or possibly the thermistor has failed.

 

Good opportunity to open it up and replace the rubbish wire!

What you're proposing will work to drive the motor, but, the time to run the motor will vary by voltage. If you run it from a lipo it will turn faster so need to run less time.

Instead, use a switch to detect when the firing plunger has fired, and then stop the motor. Don't need to time anything then, can just run the motor until the switch is pressed.

I'd also put a pull down resistor on the arduino pin driving the transistor. Otherwise when the arduino turns on, the voltage on that pin might briefly go high and run the motor.
Also, think about using a h-bridge instead of transistor. Can run it from a pwm arduino pin and control the speed more accurately.

Is that a dashcam on top??

Does anyone know if its possible, and where, to get a replacement pusher belt for a Hyperfire?

 

Kind of accidentally slipped with a scalpel while doing some work on mine... oops.