Hi All

 

I was going to order a couple of airsoft scope accessories for the tacticool look, since they look better, and can be cheaper than the Nerf brand plastic parts.

 

But they obviously they're for "real" gun mounts such as picatinny and weaver rails. Are any of those directly compatible with Nerf rails?

I know I can buy picatinny rails in various lengths and bolt them on, but i'd rather not add extra parts if i can avoid it.

 

Thanks.

Here is an updated circuit diagram. The 2 parts circled in red are mutually exclusive, its one or the other. Can use a switch, or hall sensor for the trigger depending on the gun.

 

I dont like the blaster parts one, too much on the outside, i wanted internal so made my own.

 

http://nerfhaven.com...nd-rapidstrike/

 

Design and parts list there, happy to share arduino code if you want it.

So I finally had some time to sit down and swap the switches out for hall effect sensors. Works a treat! Put them in the Rapidstrike and Stryfe, configured the same so the magazines detect the same in either blaster.

I also swapped out the switch i was using for the trigger counter in the Rapidstrike. It was detecting the movement of the pusher arm but i found if the blaster was held at an angle, the lever on the switch would jam against the pusher arm. So i swapped that out for a hall effect sensor too.

 

This is the insides of the Stryfe, you can see the hall sensors on the left half of the shell, connected to a 4 pin socket, which mates with a 4pin plug on the other half. Makes assembly/disassembly easy. And all works fine. They're on a piece of white styrene glued in to put them at the right distance from the mag.

 

 

 

And heres a short youtube clip showing the detection in action. Theres a slight delay of a second or two after insertion because putting the mag in turns on the Arduino, which has to boot.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=DUmSJL-isHE

Got bored waiting for my parts to show up from ebay, so picked up a sensor and magnet from the electronics shop to test with. $7.75 for one sensor locally, or $2 for ten from china!
With a neodymium magnet, the sensor can detect it from at least 15-16mm away! So wont have any issues with wobbling magazines causing misreadings.

Also when coding the arduino, i worked out that i can get more values by using a magnet that a switch. Two switches gives me four readings:
off/off
on/off
off/on
on/on.

But because of how the hall effect sensor works, i can detect no magnet, or north or south polarity. Which with two sensors gives me nine combinations:
none/none
none/N
none/S
N/none
N/N
N/S
S/none
S/N
S/S

At the moment I only have 18, 12, and 6 shot magazines, so really i can get away with using a single sensor and magnet, and just code those 3 sizes. Or lose the 6 and replace with a 25 or 35. And the 18's will be set to none/none, so dont need to mess about with them, and will only use a single magnet on each of my remaining 12's and 6's.

What about magnetic switches instead of levers or pushbuttons? Glue a magnet onto the clip in the appropriate position. That would reduce the moving parts issue that may develop from repeated lever switch use - though i don't know how rugged magnetic switches are...

Very impressive work btw.

Actually i was sitting test fitting, and umming and ahhing about how to mount things, and magnetic was starting to appeal to me as well. Not necessarily because of moving parts failing, just that it would be less intrusive, and less of an issue if the magazine wobbles.

So i jumped on ebay last night and ordered some little magnets, and some hall effect sensors. Good thing is that by using them, i can move the connections on the arduino to analog pins instead, and free up a couple of digital pins for something else. Be 2-3 weeks before the parts show up though. But since i got 10 sensors for $2 with free delivery from china, versus $8 each locally, i'm happy to wait!

All installed. You can see a little black 4 pin socket in the bottom right, mates up directly with a male plug on the other half of the shell, makes it easier taking it apart all the time. Also trimmed the rails the jam door rides in so it opens all the way now.



Installed the switches to detect the magazine, running to the connector to the other half of the shell. I used pushbuttons, but i'm not happy with them, the actual button piece wobbles too much, and can be pushed aside instead of pressing in. So i think i'll replace both with lever type microswitches.

And, yes, circuit diagram/parts list/arduino code would be most welcome when you get a chance.

Voila. It really is absurdly simple really.

Theres still 8 unused digital pins on the Pro Mini, so still plenty of scope for expansion, and i didnt use the analog inputs at all. Though i'm thinking of adding a light sensitive resistor which will automatically adjust the brightness of the display for day or night use to one of the analog inputs. The pro mini does need a USB to TTL cable to program it since it has no onboard usb controller. But, theres no reason the pro mini couldnt be swapped for an Arduino Nano or equivalent.

The MAX7219 LED driver can actually drive 8 digits, so other things could be displayed. Mighty handy that it fits under the pro mini! I even managed to squeeze the brightness resistor underneath between the MAX and the arduino pins.

I built my prototype without the 2 recommended capacitors, and had no issues, so the version i've installed doesn't have them. I've yet to have any issues without them so can save $0.50 if you want to skip them!

The pin numbers i chose for the 3 switches, and for connection to the MAX are based on the physical layout of the pro mini and were convenient to group. Can really use any pins, as long as they're defined correctly in the software.

Very nice work there! What are you doing to control your motors? And have you had any communications issues from it? My main problem in times past has been communications between the arduino and the controller chip for the display.

Again, good work!
- Gimmick

At the moment mine is just a counter and magazine detection. I havent yet done any motor or wiring upgrades, but that is on my list to do.
I hadnt considered using the arduino to run the motors at all, just didnt see the need. I was thinking about using a 1-2" OLED display for more info, ie: counter, inserted clip size, batt voltage, maybe motor RPM, but i'm specifically going for an Aliens pulse rifle look on this one.

I assume you're using a MAX7219? The very first one i used on my breadboarded circuit i did have some troubles. I had to almost power cycle it a bunch of times, try driving characters repeatedly before it would be stable. And then the next day, it would misbehave again. But the subsequent ones i tried didnt have that problem.

I also found I could get rid of the 2 recommended capacitors with no ill effects. But then i am using short and minimal wiring, so maybe less need.


My build here: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=26360

I am planning on duplicating your mod in my own rapidstrike within the next month or so. If you want/need a beta tester, your kit would save me a lot of time. I am extremely tech savy, and have a friend who is arduino experienced and a very good coder who is willing to help me with the project. I would be very interested in buying a kit from you, even if it's in an alpha or beta state.

If you want to add smartphone control, you can do it the easy way over bluetooth. If you add a bluetooth UART from Adafruit you can use their existing Android/IOS app to send data back and forth.

Love your build. Started doing the same thing to mine as well. Built mine on a single board like this:


But once installed so the displays are on the right side of the gun, i found it was slightly too thick and was interfering with the magazine.


So ive since made a far smaller version:


My magazine detection is using switches to detect the ridges on the sides of the magazines. With a couple of notches its quite simple.

If you're running out of pins on the pro mini, and dont want to use a larger arduino, you could always use an i2c multiplexer/extender to let you use more devices.

I had thought about using that switch.
I spent a while dismantling the trigger assembly etc and seeing what pushed what, locked against what, etc. And i technically could use it.

Good thing about the arduino is that i can set the code to look for a high or low, open or closed circuit so its possible. But, since i haven't yet done any power upgrades to the switches, wiring and motors, i decided to use a seperate switch in case that switch doesnt end up staying once i do the upgrades. If that makes sense?

Great job, it seems very simple and efficient (in terms of functionality and cost).

This arduino is 5V logic, correct? Are you just powering the whole blaster (including motors and the arduino) off of alkalines, then?

Its one of the things i love about arduino's can use a simple tiny little board, and do so much with it. All the smarts around sensing the trigger, working the counter, detecting magazines etc can be done in software, without the need for loads of additional electronics. As it is, the pro micro has 14 digital IO pins, and i'm only using 6! Could easily add more features to it.

And yes it is a 5V version, but another handy feature of the arduino is an onboard 5V regulator. It can happily run off up to 12V, so a 3 cell lipo setup at 11.1V would be no problem. And with the addition of a $1-2 external regulator, could handle up to 25V! And yes at the moment it is just running off alkalines, I havent yet done any voltage mods to the motors, or replaced the wiring. Thats the next stage.

Expected BS noob post. Got awesome working counter. Was not disappointed.

Where do you go for resources on this stuff? I have an arduino but coding isn't my specialty.

Heh, thanks. I have an electronics and software background, so its quite simple for me. The official www.arduino.cc webpage is a great resource, but it helps if you know what you're looking for there. Another great resource is www.adafruit.com which sell parts, but have a great learning resource section. Check out https://learn.adafru...getting-started for the first of their arduino lessons.

Very cool but remove the locks in the blaster. They only make operation less smooth, and especially the dart lock can be a real pain which could cause problems with the counter if you get a jam.

TLDR; Remove locks to improve operation.

I have removed some of the locks in the Stryfe and RS, but not all yet. At the moment my aim is to get the counter installed and working, then i'll look at going through and doing voltage mods, re-wiring, and remaining lock removal. The RS once painted and modded to have the Aliens pulse rifle look will probably be more a show piece than play gun anyway.



Ive been test fitting the bigger counter in the RS. Removed the orange wire cover in the middle, was taking up too much space. I'm re-using the switch that was one of the electronic locks to detect a magazine is inserted, to turn the counter on instead. (the bottom left). The plastic lever isnt inserted at the moment, keeps falling out when i move the gun, same for the magazine release lever. You can also see a small 4 pin connector just to the right of it, that will go to the magazine detection switches on the left shell of the gun. A connector will make it easier to disassemble/reassemble. I was going to use a little micro switch behind the trigger to detect firing, but then remembered the RS is full auto, so that wont work. Instead the switch now sits in front of, and to the right of the pusher arm, and gets pressed whenever it extends to push a dart. It does safely clear the magazine there.


I have however found that the counter is thicker than i had planned on. As a result some of the pins actually rub against the magazine, and push it a little off centre. When the gun is closed up the mag will be straight, but will probably bend the pins it touches. They do scratch the top of the mag. So since the parts are cheap enough, and i have the design working fine, i'm going to make another counter for the RS, but compact it down like the one in the Stryfe. Will sit in the same place, but take up less room and wont interfere with the magazine.


So watch this space.

Btw, happy to provide a circuit diagram/parts list/arduino code if anyone wants them.

Edit/Update 1: current circuit diagram here http://members.iinet...rf/circuit2.jpg

Please read this post about the 2 bits circled in red, they're optional: http://nerfhaven.com...trike/?p=349981

 

Edit/Update 2: Arduino sketches can be downloaded here:

Rapidstrike: https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing

Stryfe: https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing

Read this post for details: http://nerfhaven.com...e-2#entry351112

 

 

 

 

Hi all, a noob here.

After recently getting hold of a Rapidstrike, i decided i'd add a shot counter, in preperation for a repaint to look vaguely like an Aliens assault rifle. Figured while i was at it i'd make 2 and add one to my Stryfe as well!
I'm good with electronics, and decided an arduino would be the way to go, ordered everything on ebay and finally put it together over the last few days.

Breadboarded it first, used an Arduino pro mini since theyre small and cheap, added a 7 segment driver, couple of discrete components and the displays and voila! There are 4 switches on the breadboard, the 2 lever switches are for power, and triggering. The idea of the power one is it will only turn the circuit on when a magazine is inserted. And 2 small pushbuttons which will be used for magazine size detection. More on that in a bit.


Since theres loads of room in a Rapidstrike to the right of the magazine, i wired it all up on a single board that fits nicely. The leads are long but will shorten them when i actually install it. This has red digits.


I wire wrapped the back instead of soldering, far simpler when prototyping.


But that whole board is too big for a Stryfe, so i made a smaller version with the displays seperated. The little red/black wires you see disconnected go to the trigger switch and will be soldered at installation time. This has blue digits.


To save space, after soldering in headers to the Arduino to use for wire wrapping, i use double sided tape to stick the 7 segment drive underneath the arduino. Makes it nice and compact.



Decided to install in the Stryfe first, so cut out a hole for the displays and glued in the trigger microswitch. You can see here how the trigger mechanism presses against it.



I left the jam door switch connected, but bypassed the magazine insertion switch, and instead wired that up to turn the arduino on whenever a magazine is inserted. Wont drain battery that way, and acts to reset the counter when a mag is inserted.
Theres a space in the top of the gun above where i installed the trigger switch which is perfect for the arduino board, and obviously i sized the length of the cables to reach where the display sits. The display isnt fixed in place yet, just sitting there in the pic.


All assembled. The lighting makes the displays look superbright, but they're not, the brightness is controlled by the arduino and is actually turned right down. Just a camera lighting trick making them look super bright.



At the moment the Stryfe counter doesnt have magazine size detection, since i was going to try and make the placement of the switches the same in the Rapidstrike and Stryfe so i dont need to do much to the mags. Where i planned to put them in the Rapidstrike at the front of the mag wont work in the Stryfe. But i have now worked out how to do it, they'll be mounted on the left side of the gun near the top of the magazine.
Basically, all the magazines have molded ridges on them, like this:


So i'll just add a couple of notches to those ridges (where circled) to encode the magazine size. With 2 switches, i can set 4 sizes.
ie:
Pressed/Pressed = 18
Pressed/Not Pressed = 12
Not Pressed/Pressed = 6
Not Pressed/Not Pressed = 35 drum

And its just a matter of adding a notch (or not) on the appropriate ridge. Pressed means there is no notch and the ridge presses the switch. That way i dont need to do anything to my mags which are mostly 18's. And the 12 and 6's i have each only need 1 notch on the correct ridge, so minimal effort. The only one left out is a 25 drum, but that could be done by adding another switch. The arduino can do it, i just havent bothered since i dont have a 25 drum.


Not including wire/tools/time, the common parts cost (in US$) was:
Arduino Pro Mini with headers $2.92 each
7 segment driver $0.54 each
7 segment displays $0.79 each
Lever microswitch $0.65 each
Tactile switches $0.10 each

The larger one also has:
PCB $0.30
Wirewrap IC sockets $0.95 each, used 4
10k resistor $0.24 each
10uf 16V electrolytic capacitor $0.30
100n ceramic capacitor $0.32
(the 2 capacitors arent strictly necessary)

So total cost for the big one: $10.85
Small one: $6.13
Plus a few hours assembling and coding.