Just received my glow darts from vwillshop777. They seems to be a good quality and compatible with elites. They do NOT have a hole in the tip either. The tip feels as if it is pure rubber. I may dissect one and post it here if people are interested.

Do you know if they hurt as much as the hard plastic tip darts? I have some solid plastic ones and need solid rubber darts that don't hurt as much.

If you don't care about being shamed by the nerf modder masterrace i think it is a definitely good purchase.   

 

People can call me a newB for this but who cares: I bought the rebarreling kit from worker and pushed them into a cycloneshock, BOOM! instant gratification my cycloneshock now shoots koosh darts as accurately and as far as most modified springers and the "mod" only took about 16 seconds.  

Thank you, that answers my question about knock off darts. I just had that feeling during bobololo's review that the horrible accuracy was due to the flaw in elites, and sure enough I was correct!

Get a Longshot and carve away the bipod so you can add a pump grip. Use your Stryfe as a sidearm, or run a Hammershot with expanded cylinder. Get a Titan, 4B/UMB/XBZ, drain blaster, or other powerful system and make a Demolisher missile launch tube and a handful of Absolver shells.

How exactly do you make a absolver shell for like the demolisher or in general? I know this may be a stupid question but haven't seen anything on that

Okay.
You know, the ones with the clips that always break off leaving a brick-shaped nub!

Totally off topic but I always have had that entire thing pop off, no nub just the entire piece coming off leaving a rectangle imprint and basically a actually pencil shaped mechanical pencil

Does anyone know how to make this work, all I did is remove the dart pegs to make it compatible with stefans. It does pop out a tiny bit I'm guessing it's the air restrictor but idk I would prefer not to have to remove them. Here is the picture and yes I know that it does not have the barrel thingy. Thank you for whoever can help!

You should have no problem with that working. I removed and sanded the dart pegs and it should work fine, do you mean the shell doesn't fit back together?

Hello everyone, I know i have asked this before but I didn't get this answer out of that. So anyways, I have found this nice looking chest rig

https://www.amazon.c...+chest+rig&th=1

 

I will be likely getting it, but what I'm wondering is more so if m4/ar15 chest rigs like these would fit 12 dart clips. The molle webbing on there is enough for me to want to use them with the fast mags i will be getting. But i need to know if the built in slots would work for any mag or other things like blasters.

 

 

https://www.amazon.c...ding=UTF8&psc=1
Recommend these, cheap and reliable. Holds 12x18rounders at max capacity.

+1
 
That's what I use and I've very happy with it, even when I'm using it to hold twelve 18 dart box bags.

Guys, I know you love to rave about this chest rig, but do me a favor here please and I don't need any more people reccomending this rig. Let me come clean here, i am planning to get really into nerf, and I am into spending more money on something that can get you the furthest as opposed to spending money on something cheap and have it it get you as far.

I have found this rig, and noticed it has molle, I need that, for I have found a really cheap mag holder that I'm not going to disclose for reasons of it going out of stock soon after it's shared. It holds 2 box mags for roughly $12, and on that rig I linked I can hold 18 stick mags, and up to 38 STICKMAGS if I'm willing to spend the money. That's an insane amount of rounds, around 800 to be exact.

Now I'm not planning on getting that yet, but back to the main topic, I would like it if people told me wether or not the built in storage fits 12 round magazines, I don't need to know, I'm set on getting this anyways, but I would like it if people stopped trying to get me hooked on another thing and answer my question.(note. I am already getting what you mentioned for others, my squad, but all I need to know is about one fully decked out kit for me.

I doubt it. This isn't a slight on you, it's just that there's no setup that will do this with nerf. Airsoft maybe, but not nerf. I know you said you need good cover fire, but that's kind of silly since if you have good cover fire you can take down hordes of zombies with a maverick.
 
You can train to run with a 50 pound load (real soldiers do it, and more) but you'll never be as fast as you would carrying a 20 pound load. That's just how humans work. The most likely scenario here is that the people you thought would be covering you will decide to run (probably a correct decision), you'll tag out a couple dozen zombies, and then get nommed. Fifteen minutes later, all of those zombies respawn. Unless you were pivotal in finishing a major mission, you didn't accomplish much, and now you don't even get to enjoy your $500 loadout.
 
However, this is all said with the caveat that if the most fun thing for you to do is to be the guy with 800 darts, then you should 100% be the guy with 800 darts for as long as you can. Just don't think it will make you invincible.

Yes, I know, that's why I'm only doing less than a 20 pound load, i know I can't run too fast with 35 pounds on my back because it does weight you down. Plans already changed, and I'm expecting less people for my squad, so I will need to carry less stuff, I am still wondering. Does anyone know if those M4 magazine slots work with the 12 dart mags, I still want to know that and no one has answered me.

The questions on the amazon page say it will hold AK magazines, and generally (but not 100%) gear that holds AK magazines will hold nerf magazines. If it doesn't, it should definitely hold at least SOMETHING from this nerf-related list:

 

Demolisher missile

Firestrike

Extra lipo

Extra IMR's

Water bottle

Sledgefire shells

Flashlight

Extra darts

 

And then you can find pouches that *will* hold nerf mags and attach them to the molle.

Thank you god, ok finally, exactly the answer I needed. Thank you SO much, I will proceed with getting this rig, because all of those things are something i could use. Btw, I will say for anyone who does see this page, the mag carriers I am using are called FastMags, they are double stacked 7.62 holders, now I won't disclose where you can get them, since the price I am getting them at is really cheap. Look on aliexpress for the single carriers, they are MOLLE compatible and are basically a better version of the NMAG system, don't buy that junk, this is literally half the price and is the same exact thing. 

 

Edit:and this should be pinned somewhere, I think it's useful for the community where to get a cheap loadout, this tread has established that the above vest is highly modular and useable. Then I said basically the best option out there for mag holsters, if any of you guys need a good loadout, use this system. Most people of course recommend the above Nstar vest, but for anything more than 12 mags aka any rig that runs a rapidstrike or hyperfire you are going to want these things..

So I was browsing ebay again since why not, and stumbled upon yet another worker thing that looks promising. Link
Reason why I bring this up is because I am wondering if this should be bought, since this could possibly make re-barreling a mega gun very easy and would be a very good for a noob at modding.

Bobololo has a review of the cyclone shock set on eBay and walcom27 has the rotofury set reviewed as well. Might help you make a decision.

Thank you for telling me, those videos are great but still didn't answer the one thing both of them forgot to test. That thing is if it works better with Fvjs and those accurate darts, thank you anyway though.

Unless you're dual wielding double hyperfires at maximum voltage there's no possible way you need 800 darts on your chest, to say nothing of the fact that you would be a massive and slow target for everyone else.

 
As a former XC runner, and having been on countless hiking trips and times with 35+ pounds on my back, i think I can EASILY carry something that would weigh at most no more than 20 pounds across my whole body.

But yes, I'm planning on running a hyper-fire, and that was all theoretical

Edit:and then also add a year of training and pushing myself to sprint with this full rig on, plus all I need to do is just simply have enough blasters. I can be entirely immobile and as long as I have a good cover fire I can easily take down hoards of zombies with the blasters i will be using.

 

If a chest rig will handle 18 dart box mags no problem, why wouldn't it handle a 12 dart box mag? Maybe I'm misreading something?
 
Also, if you're going into Nerf without regard to cost (lucky you!) and you also know you're getting this chest rig anyways, what exactly are you asking for?

Yes, this seems to be a big misunderstanding, and I apologize for that, I WILL MAKE THIS CLEAR AND GET YOUR EGOS OUT OF THE WAY PLEASE. I'm asking simply if the built in storage(made for M4/ar15/multiple other guns magazines, aka the 5.56 round) would fit 12 round NERF magazines, that's all. I need to know before buying the product if I can count on those pockets fitting my box mags.

since you have to use unprotected ones or the circuit won't even start.

Actually I would like to chime in and agree trustfires and ultrafires aren't the best for this aplication but I will have oppose you on saying protected trustfires and ultrafires will not work since I have been able to make them work for a stryfe, hail fire, and demolisher although I will say the will eventually not work after a certain amount of use but that DOES NOT mean they won't run in flywheel blaster

I have been looking around for the best way to mod a nerf dart but are not sure which is the best.What way do you mod your darts?Or what is the best 3rd party darts to buy?

ACCurate darts are great, but I would just get bulleyes/precut or cutdown ACCs otherwise known as artifact darts. That would be for springers, for all around I would get the waffle darts, and for flywheels you will want Koosh darts. If you want slug type darts SCS work too, in link above, and the full length ones are accurate and my second choice for springers.

As for modding darts, putting straws in them, and cutting off the tip in elites and streamlines and making a glue dome are good ways to mod the darts to make them more accurate.

I'm surprised it's that slow, I was going to get the 8 kg spring, but now you have me wondering. Maybe 80-90 is the fastest anything can so with the AR intact? Don't get me wrong, that's about what I was looking for anyway, it just seems lower than I would have guessed.

No, but it depends how far you want to go, I have modded one long shot before and actually I would reccomend just buying and using a [k25] because it has more potential, plus you get five LONG springs for 12.15 plus shipping. The only problem is the fact that it is slightly hard to prime, I would recommend getting a pumpgrip if you wanted to go a step further and get a [k26] to work, but the max and strongest spring the longshot can handle is a [k25].

You could use CPVC in a 3 shot or 7 shot configuration (assuming the 7 shot configuration fits; the 3 shot definitely would).

 
Ok.... but still, how?!?!? I know that's how I do it, but where do I start, better question, what do I go and buy to make it???!? I know I should use either a twist fit or a regular coupler but then what about the actual piece that holds the cpvc, like what holds those pieces in place. I don't know if any pvc part that would fit in the back of that launching tube, like what size coupler or piece what I use

 

Been done, no offence intended, but wasn't this on an SBNC show? Where some dude did what your asking about? Cuz if thats what your thinking about, I think he explained how he made it.
But seriously, just cut out the inline barrel thingy, put some CPVC inside, and puddy that shiz up
I mean, I honestly would just couple it with CPVC and use it as a built on HAMP system.
 
-Montymarks

Checked, I know which video you are talking about but no he mentioned conduit, not what we could use here in the U.S, and I mean I want it to be REMOVABLE and able to fire one dart or three. I will ask the question and clarify more here, I want a REMOVABLE system where I put one coupler piece, and then can select different types of barrels so I can use megas, three darts, one dart, missles etc. What I don't get though is how do I make said attachments, and what materials do I use? Like what size coupling would actually allow me to use three darts and then also one?

And also, I don't care what I have to buy/use to do this, including if I have to print something because I have a 3D printer, I can make next to anything but need to know how

OP,

 

I've seen your prior posts and you seem pretty smart (unlike many other posters here and elsewhere online). Therefore, I firmly believe all you need to do is search on NH for "absolver" and look at the pictures of what people have done. There is no "trick" or special part to use. It's honestly as simple as figuring how to guide high pressure air from one opening into a 3 or 7 bundle of barrels.

 

I made my own set of absolver shells and couplers by going to a bigbox hardware store and looking at what PVC screw and friction fit couplers, pipes, tubes, and other doodads they had and just brainstormed internally for 15 minutes. I then bought a wide variety of sizes and shapes (they're so cheap) went to my workshop and just experimented with only hot glue, a saw, a mitre box, epoxy, PVC cement, an X-acto knife blade, and polystyrene card stock. Literally, that's all I did and was able to figure it out despite being one of the lowest IQ members on NH.

 

Here, look at what I did:

 

http://nerfhaven.com...0-fs-mav-titan/

 

No, I don't have the part numbers or exact dimensions, but you don't need them if you go to a bigbox hardware store and just spend an extra $4.75 on PVC parts.

 

In hindsight, I would have used a screw couple with a larger opening, but that's the only thing I would have changed.

 

Based off of this, I likely will use this another time because I'm planning on using a 1/2 inch cpvc coupler, however, I will use your system. I know this would be a weird part if it exists, but does anyone know if there is a cpvc coupler PLUS a screw couple part? Like I'm saying a screw coupler of a certain size, then the inner diameter fitting cpvc through friction fit.

I GOT THIS ONE
You mentioned something about 3D printing, which I've done a bit with for absolvers. I made a simple 3 shot barrel in CAD, here it is:


Just stick a stub of 0.5" CPVC into the back to attach it to a coupler system.

Also here is a link to the .STL, if it doesn't work for some reason let me know:
LINK

Using this, printing this today, do you know if this is airtight already or should I just wrap it in tape so no air escapes?

 

I did it, just the way I had said it. All you have to do is fill the head with hot glue, add more stuff/hot glue to kill dead space in plunger tube, and cut down barrel/epoxy on 1/2" cpvc pipe and if you want a coupler, put on a coupler. Hits like a truck on steroids singled, went so fast using a stock dart that I couldn't see it.

Ok cool, the group consensus seems to be to use 1/2 inch cpvc, so that's likely what I will do, thank you

Does anyone know of how to make an absolver for the demolisher hamp? I don't really know what I would use and suggestions and material list would help. There aren't really any good guides on this and I know I would want a coupler but not sure how to make the multi barrel system.

To clarify, what I'm asking here is I understand I need a coupler system, and I need a bunch of a certain size of other couplers to make different attachments, but I'm wondering what I would use and how I would do it

The fdl2 has dials for Firesign mode:semi, burst, full auto. And rof control. This cannot be done with the mechanicly pushed stryfe.
Whoops on the dart counter meaker. I thought that would have more attention as one of the coolest things.

  
That's not what I mean, I meant that it would be similar to the FDL-2, and as opposed to having electronically powered pusher, I mean this system or make a dial that can manipulate the voltage going to the motors, and modify the speeds, and potentially have something that can be control the fps.

Yeah the work involved to make it a 'counter' was kind of trivial so I din't highlight that feature, but yeah that should be given more emphasis given it's the most important part of it. Also, I called it a 'round counter' in my post, not an 'ammo counter'. Rounds/ammo... same difference... though "round" seems like the more appropriate word. When I hear the word 'rounds', I'm thinking darts in a clip... when I hear the word 'ammo', I'm thinking darts in a scavengers bucket. IDK, LOL!!!
 
Pineapplepies, that's the first I've heard of 'FDL-2'... I'll have to look in to that. As far as controlling flywheel and feeder motors, I think both features would stay within range of the 328p. The select fire feeder motor thing would require probably 4 GPIOs (2 switches on a dial => bits for 4 modes, a feeder position switch, and motor driver output), and some simple logic fed from the remaining rounds variable. The flywheel could be controlled with a logic level FET (I'm a big fan of those) and analogWrite() I believe, since that uses Timer0 and the IR sensor is rigged to Timer1. Not 100% sure, but one problem I forsee with using Timer0 analogWrite(), is it may introduce some error in the RPM measurements (which gets micros() from Timer0). I think the errors would be negligible though, and if they weren't then maybe analogWrite() can be ported to use Timer2 for this project (I've ported a servo lib to another timer on an unrelated mega based project... wasn't that hard to do). With 3 analog inputs left, adding a 'flywheel speed dial' to that would be trivial.
 
Now my mind digs deeper down the rabbit hole... how about developing a PID loop to set actual FPS with the dial... that would be tight!!! We could get the flywheels smart... make them adjust up/down depending on what FPS is coming out the other end.
 
Anyhow, my time to work on code can be hit/miss depending on my work/family schedule. This is open source code, and I'm no expert coder. There are many things that could be done more clearly/efficiently, on top of adding desired features. I haven't shared on Nerf reddit... I figure one place is better than 2, and Nerf Haven seemed the best spot for this. That said, I might put this on github if there are other dudes wanting to work on it.
 
At the moment, it compiles around 84% progmem with the useless splashscreen, and 69% without the splashscreen. That leaves plenty of 'hard drive' to add features. SRAM is at 82% with or without the splashscreen, but so far the heap hasn't crashed on me. Before I was using float arrays, 90% SRAM, and that was crashing. So, when we start talking about adding more to the data tables (like current, etc...), or expanding the max clip size, we may run in to the limit of the 328p. That said, I've got some extra esp8266's. I think the code for that would be even simpler, since the ide has built in esp stuff that does better than 65nsec (so no need for input capture, and direct port probably won't be necessary). That would make for a much more compatible and easier to read code, but I enjoy squeezing blood from rocks.
 
Kevin

Yes, that's what I meant, I mean find a way to allow this to control or post how you can control the speeds of the motors. Some people may not think it's useful, but when you get into the area of FDL-2 performance you may not want to give some nasty welts so you can turn down the speed. My other idea with that was that if you are in a really long battle you can limit the voltage going to the motors, so if you only get one 2s pack you don't burn through your battery too fast. And yes, that's exactly what I meant, finding a way to control fps.

The mengun types are good but the ekind waffleheads have more forward weight, so they fly better under high flywheel power conditions. Both have more forward weight & will be much more stable in flight than elites but with less overall range (not that you'd notice with elites with their wild flight paths which reduce their straight linear range).

Oh ok, so would these be better for flywheels or springers or can they be used well across the board? And I don't care about range that much, I want to know the difference between the two but I just need something better than elites

Their tip diameter and profile is different and in that regard specifically I GREATLY prefer the men-gun darts for homeamdes because they feed easier through hoppers and breech systems once they are cut shorter. The quality control of EKIND darts is also somewhat spotty so you'll have to spot check batches for mold flash on the tips.
 
If you are using stock blasters there's no practical difference between the two beyond weight distribution.

Ok thank you, if you have either, and same goes for sir brass, do either of you know the preformance difference and the accuracy difference? Like basically the reason why I asked this in the first place is because I'm wondering for this large war I am hosting if I should pick one over the other to buy or if I should buy both.

Could you hook this up with a system, and or could you possibly code this to regulate the flywheel speeds and then furthermore control the thing with dials, that would make this FDL-2 but open source AND in a much smaller and versatile package which would be groundbreaking.

So as you can possibly tell from the title, wondering if anyone knows the difference/performance difference between men gun darts and the Ekind waffle tips. I am in the market for bulk amounts of darts and both men gun and the ekind darts are in the sizes I want them, so if anyone could tell me which one is better if at all that would be great.
This is at full length by the way, however if anyone knows the hopperabilty of either of these then please share because may use these for homemades too.

If you think that may be it, then I have ordered dummy batteries and the problem may be solved. If anyone has any idea if the trust fires with regular batteries may be it, then tell me please.

Yes, I am, and before anyone says anything it should be fine to do this, since I have used it a lot and nothing has happened.

So I have those protected trust fires from Amazon, and have been running them in my Demolisher with regular aa battery's. So I am in a war and my I try to rev up the gun and but instead of working it starts to increase in sound then weakens in power untill it stops(how it sounds:vvvrrrroooooMMMMMvvvvvvv) Does anyone know what is wrong, I need it soon for another war so please respond as soon as possible.

I won't repeat what others have said about mixing chemistries, but I am going to ask:

 

Is the demolisher stock?  You may be tripping the PPTC (thermistor) in the blaster if you didn't remove it.

It is completely stock, nothing done to it except the batteries have been changed. It also has only 2 trustfires, and 2 alkalines, since the PPTC was tripping with three trustfires and one dummy.

Have you tried running the gun with regular batteries since then its possible you burned out the motors its a problem that eventually occurs when you overvolt them.

Yes I have, it is not broken, it seems some of the batteries are.

Thanks for the advice. I'm looking into transitioning to using a Stryfe, but I will probably remove the skirt to see if that fixes the problem. I question whether it will, because I understand that skirt helps center the dart before going through the flywheels and I imagine the spinning out is due to some darts existing the flywheels off center (just a theory).

 

Also, I never have jamming issues (although I'm just running 6 NiMH cells).

I didn't know that the skirt did that, since it didn't do anything wrong to my freind's Demolisher when I took off the skirt because would not stop jamming.

Anyone use 3rd generation Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike? I noticed every 6 or so shot out of the my Rapidstrike tend to twirl, spin out, or helicopter.

 

Anyone else observe this and if so, do you know what the cause is and how to fix it? I wonder if removing the skirt might help?

There is a way to remove the skirt, and although it may not help, I would still do this anyway since removing the skirt lowers the chance jamming by a lot. What you need to do is open up the jam door without a clip in(make sure there is no way the flywheels can activate) and stick you finger in the part where the darts enter into the flywheels. Then bend your finger down and around and then yank it out. If it does not work try getting at it in a different way or use really long needle nose pliers

For the stuff I've looked at, shipping is not included in price. Add an extra $5 in there; though if they combine it might be an ok way to stock up.

Yes, ok, you are right, just checked and it's $31 including shipping for 1000, however, it's still a viable alternative because last I checked that's still cheaper than like eBay

I'll be ordering a few magazines to see if this site is legit, the prices are pretty nice. The colors are not new however. 
I've yet to see a durable, consistent, safe, and hopperable dart comparable to the slug with minimal wye modifications. I'm not seeing anything that fits the bill there.

A.)already done, Walcom was offered free stuff in the nerf department, usually, that means not a scam at all

B.)wrong, there are cut down ACCs, weird slug lookalikes, elites, worker, and you can manually cut accustrike darts and more. Here's the link, options, my friend, select the kind you want

http://www.lightake....tml?sku=2231060

C) even if slugs are better, these are cheaper, and like silly darts will feed with corn starch, these may be the same way. It may be possible, and it's very likely that any of the above mentioned kinds could work, albeit maybe a fix or two, and as I said, they have look alike slugs, if slugs work, these will, and are cheaper. Plus, if you are able to cut down accustrike darts, which I believe hopper, you can get 1000 for $18 as opposed to usually $20 plus endless amounts of time to make 200 slugs

Edit:oh and foam blast also seems to have gotten stuff

I'm well aware of the various cut-down darts and their properties. Some have rock-hard tips, some aren't glued very well, some fly all over the place. For super stock and HvZ, they work fine however.
My point still stands. There is not a safe, hopperable, durable, and consistent dart from China. Accustrikes do not hopper consistently. 
I remain skeptical until I see a video of them going through a hopper with a standard barrel, shooting 200+ fps in a laser straight line. Also, fuck carrying cornstarch around.

Yeah I guess. And well then, I guess cornstarch is only for some people.

It's a good option for cheap ammo and ugly-color mags or 18-dart mags. They don't offer too much else that's of interest yet.

Yeah, but hey the mags and darts are good, that's all I care about

It's a good option for cheap ammo and ugly-color mags or 18-dart mags. They don't offer too much else that's of interest 

yeah, but still they are good mags, i have some, they are really good, and work fine in any blaster. Still, it's cheap

Letting everyone know that we now have the best source for anything nerf.

Introducing,

Lighttake:http://www.lightake....e=0&pagesize=20

To give you an idea on how crazy this is, 1000 darts go for $18, and clear 18 mags go for $3 a pop, that's a third of all places previously available, and there have been multiple people saying it's not a scam.

They have darts of every color I have ever seen, anything from red, to purple, even on the mags

Plus, gone forever are the days of slugs, there are slug lookalikes for $1.99 per 50, this is just crazy, splurge while you can.

Protip: Don't go into the free shipping section, it's full of dildos

haha yeah xD we need a banner on here that says "beware of b.o.n.a.r.s" which stands for big, orange, nerf arrows and rockets, specifically

 

 

Welcome to the internet

it's scary place #shudders#

No matter what, a full rewire (or even full internal upgrade including microswitches and a lipo connector) will be complimentary or even required.

Ok, but the only problem is that I don't know where to get the wire for rewiring my Demolisher. I also have not attempted anything like that so if you can tell me where I can find a tutorial on how to rewire and remove locks like the thermoresister that would be great since I don't want to end up blowing my self up when I severe the wrong wire.

Is this a normal unmodded demolisher, or doesn't have just basic mods (lock removal, etc)?
Mixing batteryou brands and types is never good, mixing trustfire and generic AA could have damaged your motors.
So the question is, does it still rev if you use just generic AA batteries?

Yeah, I know it is not good to mix batteries, I already had a topic about that. Also, Yes, it does still work just fine.

Good demolisher rewire tutorial: https://www.youtube....h?v=fsj_G2gGxoc
 
Never rewire while a battery is attached. Follow that rule, and cuttin g a wire will never result in things blowing up.
 
After a rewire, always test with normal AA batteries first. If they heat up or act weird, you have a short (which would be bad with the various lithium batteries). If everything seems good, then put in your NiMH'lithium/whatever batteries.
 
"protected" trustfires

Wait so should I not be using the trustfires, or was that just a result of overcharging which is something I am in fact aware of.

IMRs are good. If used with stock motors use no more than two. Use "dummy batteries" like these, not more AA batteries to fill the other spots.
 
NIMH  rechargeables like Eneloops are also good. With stock motors you can use four.
 
 
Trustfires and Ultrafires are horrible and may explode on you and/or burn your house down.

Well why do you think I got the protected ones? Along with that, could you link a charger for the IMR's if there is any?

So some of you may or may not of seen the topic that I posted about my Demolisher not reving as a result of putting trustfires in with regular double A's, and in the end I am forced to buy new batteries. I am wondering, for anyone who uses double A replacement batteries, what would you recommend:Trustfire or ultrafire or IMR? Along with that, does it matter if they are protected? And finally, what charger would you recommend for your favored battery?

Any AK/7.62/FAL/M14/308 type mag pouches should hold any nerf mag. For instance, one single stack AK pouch holds one nerf mag, and a double stack pouch for AK mags hold 2 nerf mags. 
 
This holds 6 18s and lots of other pockets. lots of HVZers use this. 
http://www.amazon.co...g/dp/B005OIBYQM
 
http://www.ebay.com/...wKKrqVe5hXUfxWg
 
http://www.ebay.com/...LkAAOSwWnFV91vZ

I remember you recommending this, one question though. I did some more research and since you said that ak mag pouches work, would this one work? I know it's not a rig but personally I would rather get something I can keep adding onto than maximum amount of mags:https://www.amazon.c...molle mag pouch
And would this work for the 22rd worker, 20 buzz bee mag, and 18 round nerf?

Edit:hope this isn't too off topic from the main post but the main post has to do with mags of similar size so this may be a viable option on a molle rig. To my knowledge, you can keep adding mags so theoretically you could have 3 or 4 sets of the thing I listed on a rig and that would be about double the capacity of what you listed, albeit much more expensive but also more versatile and longer lasting, especially good if you are running a rapid strike/hyperfire