- → Lunas's Content
There have been 137 items by Lunas (Search limited from 13-May 93)
Younger than that i would say a jolt small enough for them easy enough to prime it front loads. The fire strike might be a bit difficult for some younger kids and prone to breaking the priming handle...
Good tips, thank you. I like these ideas.
I have not formally monitored the battery life. However, I have fired about 200 darts through my Stryfe with the Turnigy Lipo and it's dropped from 4.16v/cell to 3.96v/cell, which linearly extrapolates to 860 darts before the Turnigy Lipo needs to be swapped out (low voltage alarm is set to go off at 3.3v/cell.
Start/End Voltage: 4.16/3.96 = 0.2v used
Darts Fired: 200
4.16v-3.3v = .86v/.001 = 860 dart battery life (SD +/-80)
Dang, I like the idea of a digital voltage meter. I could probably trim out a window on starboard side and rig my digital voltage meter/alarm for viewing. I like your top side idea better though, more functional.
Those are the ones i got. Like i said no cutting needed the plastic of the nerf gun lets enough light through that you can just glue it to the inside and it shows through. In the stryfe on either side of the magazine area the meter is thin enough that it doesn't interfere. I'm also thinking near the back on the left half of the shell it should not interfere with the trigger but ill have to decide when i get around to putting it in where exactly it will end up.
The shots per charge was not calculated in a very accurate way it doesn't take into account that as the battery drops it drops quicker the lower it gets. Also the 35C constant 75C burst is 300mA * 35 and 300*75 for 10.5 amp constant and 22.5 amp burst this kinda puts it down to imr range.
I call bullshit on those shots-per-charge calculations. 300mAh is a tiny battery. Stock motors have winding impedances of something like 12-15 ohms, right? Even if we give them a relatively conservative number like 20 ohms, they'll still be pulling about 300-350mA at 7.4V. That gives them less than an hour of operation under ideal conditions. So I don't buy it.
For those that did not know C rating is a measure of how much current can be discharged it represents the capacity of the battery array * rating C = amps possible. So if you have a battery that is 300mA with 25c constant it can deliver 10.5 amps constantly.
I think unless your running non stock motors that pull 20 or more amps you dont really need to run these lipo packs you can do IMR. Are they ideal? No, but the good chargers for them can do other chemistry too. I use a nitecore d4 to charge mine it does NiMH, Li-ion, Li-Mn, Li-Fepo4 and Nicd and it has a 12v input so i could use my car accessory plug to charge them.
my stryfe is running on a pair of these they are ~14c
efest v2 IMR 14500 3.7v High Discharge
Maximum Continuous Discharge Rate: 9.75A
Maximum Continuous Charging Rate: 1.3A
Rated Capacity: 700mAh
If that is the one thing you remove from the internals i highly suggest it. It is just a mechanical lock that gets in the way more than it helps honestly i would pull all the mechanical locks and trim the top of the rev trigger so the dart trigger does not hit it rather than trimming the dart trigger like most guides suggest.
Yes, you are correct.
Also what are the run times like for that battery pack?
My next mod is going to be the addition of a volt meter inside my stryfe when i do ill get pictures of my rewire with solid core 18 gauge it was interesting to work with. I may or may not swap the stock rev switch to a 10A switch. and i may or may not use the jam door switch to turn off and on the volt meter i also thought about placing the volt meter where you have your battery so when i check the voltage i flip it up get the reading close it turns off the meter. I tested it and when placed against the plastic you can read the numbers through the plastic so it can be super stealth.
the v1 red efests do around 2 amps so make sure you get v2.
I made my own dummies out of paper and wire and wood glue...
Darts you run into allowable vs not allowable and you have to worry about getting yours back at the end. So that leaves the barrel you can brass them and it helps but can decrease ranges...
i believe koush darts are allowed and also fix most of what causes the issues with nerf but you will probably loose alot of them.
modding the darts you can make nerf darts better by filling the tips with hot glue but this may not be allowed also reduces the range on them.
yep also dont get used to a 7kg spring those springers can make stock darts hit hard with the ar bored out.
a heavier dart will fly straighter and wont be blown around by wind as much as a lighter/smaller one, but see how long you can shoot massively heavy darts at people until they get real upset
we dont use slurs here, we're PC as fuck
If you are handy and know your way around a soldering iron then you could just mod it.
look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.
I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.
as for the 2s
8 AA batteries adds alot of weight to it doesn't it but it sounds beast you might want to look into IMR 14500 batteries they are AA size and can handle more amperage output than a alkaline.
If you want to go the pack route then your really only limited by where you can fit it you could run a cable to a belt pouch with a 10,000 mAh battery in it.
And as for motors i would not bother until the stock ones burn up then look at rc racing motors hyper dash ect but keep in mind they are meant to run on 3v-6v not 7.4-12
Li-ion they use colbalt and some other materials they typically are the ones that vent and there are alot of counterfit batteries labled trustfire or ultrafire i recommend avoiding these batteries. most will handle 1A discharge some will handle up to 3-4A discharge.
I can't say much about the 130 form factor motors. However, here is some information that may help with the 14500 batteries.
What you have to understand is that none of the batteries are made by the companies selling them. Trustfire, ultrafire, tangsfire, etc., are all resellers of these cells. The original LiCo cells are manufactured by companies such as Samsung and Sanyo and they are not sold individually.
This leads to a few issues. We have no idea where those batteries are coming from and they may very well be recycled or quality control failures. And two, the claims of battery capacity are completely false. Regardless of what the reseller has printed on the label, the 14500's will carry about 400-600mah and the 18650's around 1600-1800mah. I have heard that the Efest brand uses a different chemistry and can supply higher currents, however I have not personally tested them. At least they don't lie about the capacity of the battery, anyway.
Efest IMR is Li-MN or lithium manganese these are safer they can still vent but tests have shown dead shorts only causing them to heat up to around 170F then quit and read 0 volts. They can be charged just fine in the same charger as li-ion and these can put out around 10A so they will be better for recovery and stall... I use these they are made by efest and i find 2 of them work great.
Li-fe these are supposedly safer yet and are more durable however this chemistry touts a lower voltage of 3.3 as such these can not be charged in a li-ion charger and must be charged in a charger that supports them. Tenergy makes these and they have been having issues with counterfeiting.
As for a charger i suggest a nitecore d2 or i2 the newest model should handle any type of battery you have they will even do Nicd or NIMH and li-fe
Also these batteries Lipo li-ion li-mn all 3 of these are considered discharged and in need of being recharged when they hit about 3.2 volts per cell this is still enough to spin the motors and fire just fine but continuing to drain them past this point will damage them. Li-ion when abused either over discharge or over charge tend to vent and cause fires.
To let me know when my batteries are low i put one of these in my stryfe http://www.amazon.co...voltage display
It has a calibration pot on it and i did calibrate mine to my multimeter and i hooked it up to the jam door switch so when i open the door it turns on. I did not cut a hole for it i just hot glued it to the inside of the plastic where i had room as it is bright enough to shine through the plastic it looks a bit fuzzy but is readable.
And for dummy batteries... you will need the following
Solid copper wire 16 gauge preferable i used 18
a AA battery for reference
a piece of paper standard printer paper is what i used
tape or elmers glue or wood glue (i recommend glue it makes for a more durable finished product.)
a pair of needle nose pliers
a pair of scissors
cut your self a piece of wire about 2 inches longer than a AA battery
now cut a strip of paper exactly as wide as a AA battery is long not out to the button on the positive side place wire at one end with a small bit hanging out the positive side and a longer bit hanging out the negative side start the roll and put some glue down as you roll the wire the paper will quickly make it the size of a AA battery when it reaches the size of a AA cut off the remainder of the paper and tape or hold while the glue sets. after the glue sets take the needle nose and curl the short bit of wire into a nub like the battery and coil the longer end tightly to form a plate at the negative end when done you should have a wire the size of a AA battery that fits and passes voltage and current over the wire. You could make the blank longer to be as long as 2AA end to end as well I find that a piece of printer paper length wise makes a AA battery when wrapped around 18 gauge solid core. You can get about 4 blanks out of one sheet.
amazon is where i get my stuff they have the turnigy battery packs too they dont seem to have any efests other than 18650 tho. that is on the Canadian site...
Is there any Canadian here? Where can we get supply like batteries,chargers and maybe even motors online? Hobbyking is charging like 30$ for shipping and couldnt find a half decent canadian store...
it is about surface area the higher the surface area the more contact or grip on the dart thus the more kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart.
I don't understand why people are doing this.
Report back with chronograph readings, but I have a sinking suspicion you just threw away your money.
To the op make a video to capture the sound it makes with those wheels also i would try it without roughing the surface first the smoothness might be a factor in gripping the dart so you may wish to use 1000-2000+ grit to polish the wheels to a mirror like finish for more grip...
you would want as much weight to the outside ring as you can. With the overall weight being as low as possible. That said if your motors can spin them up fine i would not bother with holes if they have issues with wind up time then lighten them but right now they are probably evenly weighted any holes will change the balance.
For the record, you don't want lighter flywheels, they don't spin faster or anything. Heavier flywheels retain more rotational inertia and are better for repeated firing than a lighter wheel. A light wheel will spool up to full speed more quickly (possibly an unnoticeably small amount, assuming you've spent as much on a motor system as you have on these flywheels), but will lose more energy with each shot.
That said, it's possible that with aluminum wheels conventional wisdom for plastic wheels may not apply. It's likely that these are already more than heavy enough to not be affected by a stream of darts flying through. Either way, I wouldn't drill holes in your nice, new, one-of-a-kind flywheels unless your motors aren't up to snuff, even then I'd suggest upgrading the motors instead.
You will need to buy a charger that supports li ion 9v they are around 25-50 as well and from the reviews they don't last very long
That's not hard to do with lipo either but the reason people can go to 18v on 9v batteries is the low current they can provide. The li-ion ones you found should be better than 9v alkaline or 9v NiMH pp3 packages but still not as good as IMR batteries. You will burn a motor on a lipo @ 18v vs running 2 9v in series. You will probably find running at 7.4 or 11.1v will out perform 18v with 9v. This gun has stryfe motors and they will burn over 14v on a lipo they hit good ranges with a 7.4-11.1v most people find stryfes hitting 100+fps on 7.4 lipos and above 12 they melt darts...
Alright. I kind of wanted to use the li-ion because i was going to have a setup where when you have the gun normal, 9v. when you attach the overvolt stock (a demolisher stock with another 9v), it makes it 18v.
Actually in my research I found the current lithium primary could provide was vastly inferior. While better than both alkaline and NiMH a lithium primary is still worse than a li-ion 14500 cell. Energizer's data sheet claims 3A continuous with 5A pulse 2 seconds at 5A 8 seconds off. A quality cell not *fire brand should do at least 3A continuous with 6th bursts and be rechargeable.
I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.
However the capacity of a lithium primary is greater than a li-ion (trustfire) but lithium primary are a one and done situation. And at 10 dollars per 4 pack you might as well invest in a lipo pack or imr rechargeables. (Capacity of energizer lithium tests out at 2480 mAh @ 3A)
Li-ion- generally quality cells can do 3A- 5A continuous
Li-mn/imr do about 10A continuous.
Lipo packs do 10 - 100A continuous dependant on features of the pack c rating * capacity =amperage
the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.
Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.
the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.
A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.
Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...
Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can
the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.
They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.
I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.
also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.
With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo
the demolisher is more or less a stryfe with a built in missile launcher i have seen mod videos on it and the seal in the missile launcher sucks i also wonder that if one were to remove the grate on the launcher tube if a elite dart would fit down it to give a single shot air launch.
I was going to put in some mabuchi fk180sh's in the gun then overvolt it but now I am wondering not sure. Would this outperform a solarbotics stryfe if it were in a demolisher? : http://www.banggood....kXdZhoC_pvw_wcB
With the 180s you will need to cut holes in the shell to allow the back sides of the motors to stick out. If you don't want to do this you could get some 130 can race motors the hyper dash 2 but you would be going to 4.2v for them or you could get a pair of brushless motors and a controller you will need to put an on off switch in then.
Honestly the stock stryfe motors do good with a proper power source they could be better they could be alot worse...
dont loan your custom
dont loan a diggery do
dont loan your rolex
the stock switch is good for around 3 amps not much more can be drawn through it to get the very most out of it you should replace it or use a relay to have a high current and a low current side.
I have ran 2 IMRs before, and I have never had to. The stock one works just fine with my wire setup, which is simply battery box -> rev switch -> motors
They are longer than a single c by about 1 inch not enough to take the place of 2 c inline.
Err to be clear though, I wouldn't consider IMRs to be a drop-in for the RS unless you want to use the low capacity 14500 cells with AA to C spacer/converters.
The 18650 and 26650 cells are both longer than the standard C cell alkaline battery. So you would need to do at least a tiny bit of modification to get them to fit.
I bought a 18650 2s1p protected battery tray and used 2 sided tape to stick it in the battery tray i used a rotary tool to remove the center divider and drilled out a hole to enlarge the area where the contacts sit and i soldered the wires directly to the contacts
Thinking back to how i modded it one could probably solder 16 awg to the plate and run it through the holes into the tray. Or you could sit both halfs of an xt60 connector on the one side of the shell with one in the battery tray would preserve the function of the tray while allowing the use of 30-60A IMR 26650 (MORE THAN ENOUGH AMPS).
i have seen videos on li-ion trust/sure/ultra fires 18650 laptop cells venting i have also seen videos of li-po turnigy packs venting after swelling like a balloon and i have personally seen a samsung phone battery swell up 3 times the size it is supposed to be.
Hello I recently did full motor replacement and rewire on a rapidstrike. I was looking at IMR and Trustfire batteries, but have seen some videos and vape forms on batteries exploding and failing. Has anyone on here had any batteries fail?
I have never found an IMR video on them venting only them getting purposely shorted getting to almost 200F fusing the wire then dropping to 0v
Efest makes a 26650 IMR cell with high discharge up to 30A that would fit in the stock rapidstrike tray with a little modding.
That said a 18650 is more easily available and useful in more ways I have 12 18650 I got from laptop batteries 4 from flashlights and 2 imr for my rs
Yep nothing wrong with lithium cells as long as you don't abuse them. Non IMR typically only have issues with the following; multiple cells not equally charged in series, cells that have been fully killed then recharged, cells that are overcharged, cells with physical damage, or shorting the neg to positive terminals. With a quality charger like the nitecore i2/4 d2/4 or imax b6. It would be fine to use them.
This. "Traditional" lithium batteries, i.e. not IMR, have been used for a long time in all sorts of electronics with varying levels of protections, failures are pretty rare.
As long as you stick with something that is purpose made for the task, and is of high quality, you'll be fine.
Quality RC packs for example, are built for high discharge applications and the cells within the pack were properly matched. Those wont give you issues.
Trustfire and similar Lithium cells are bad and labeled as dangerous by some since they're not meant for high discharge at all. So when you demand a lot from those batteries, they get hot quick and thats when things can get dangerous.
its all good.
But that said nerf is a sport jarring and dropping blasters are common.
night and day vs c batteries the darts fly 50-80Ft i can empty the full clip in about 3-4 seconds and it spins up rather quick.
Question, how much of a performance difference do you notice with 18650s while keeping everything else stock?
I've been conflicted as to how I want to modify my own RS.
RC Pack + Charger = $40 after shipping from Hobbyking
2x18650 = $15-ish + another $15-25 for a charger (like a Nitecore D2/D4)
2x26650 = $22 for battery + charger ^
It seems like with stock wiring/internals, the RC pack wouldn't provide and extra performance over the IMR solutions. But for a slightly higher "price of entry", the RC pack route has more leftover potential for future upgrades.
I bought a nitecore d4 and my batteries. I really like the d4. And i have flashlights and usb chargers that use 18650 cells.
The issues occur due to multi cell use with the uneven discharge this causes hot cells that can vent fire hot hydrofluric acid possibly into your face. Li-mn and li-fe just get hot then stop working. Lipo batteries can on a whim swell to 3 times the correct size and vent hydrogen typically on fire so you have a torch burning hot enough to melt steel followed by a lithium fire you can't just put out with water or most fire extinguishers.
Everyone bashes against trustfire/ultrafire batteries. What's the problem? They make a normal flywheel blaster shoot substantially harder, with little/no modification to the circuit, motors, or shell.
But that's fine if you want to melt your face off you may.
then there is the fake fires sold on amazon and eBay which can be old cells forced to take a charge literally ticking time bombs can go off left in a drawer with nothing to short it. or small 30mAh cells stuffed into the can with flour or plaster to make the weight right. So it charges shows voltage but only has 30mAh instead of 3000mAh.
you will see lots of issues showing up in relation to vaping but realize vaping is shorting high resistance wire to produce heat so intentional shorting of a dangerous cell... If they used control boards to prevent a short on the battery they would not have mods becoming rocket propelled cylinders.
I have a Rapidstrike i upgraded the battery tray with a pair of 18650s in series for 8.4-7.4v the stock wiring is fine for the stock motors and stock contacts if you motor swap you will want to run wires to the end of the springs or to another method of connecting the tray or direct wire to a pack the stock springs and contacts should be good up to about 10A if you are running motors that can pull more than that perhaps epoxying a connector to the inside and then to the battery tray would be a good idea.
I've been researching a bit about batteries for the RS this past weekend since I just ordered a new RS from Target.
Anyway, from the information I've found, Trustfire or other Li-Ion 14500, 18650, 26650 cells are not good for our blasters because they dont have enough current output capability.
IMRs are better as they do provide enough current, as Lunas suggested. It seems like Efest Purple cells are the most popular. Efest 26650 IMR cells would fit in the stock battery tray since the cells are the same diameter as C-size Alkalines, but they're 15mm longer. From my personal searching, I though the GREEN Efest 26650 IMRs would be best since they provide less current than the Purples but have more capacity and the current is still enough for Nerf uses.
However, I've also had a few people convince me to go with the RC battery pack route and directly wire the battery rather than use the stock or any battery holder as those have inherently high resistance.
I had a lot of advice from others on the Nerf sub-reddit: http://www.reddit.co...in_rapidstrike/
ideally a lipo 2s or 3s with a motor replacement and full rewire. 10-400 amp discharge
So I am working on a Demolisher any I already took out all the locks any sawed off the rocket launcher, but I am wondering two things, 1: what batteries should I use? 3 Trust Fires and a dummy? Or something else? 2: If I paint, should I paint the inner shell too? Sorry I'm a bit of a newbie, but I've been modding for at least 4 months now so I still got questions! Thanks.
less ideally 2-3 IMR 14500 or 18650 stock motor or upgraded motors with rewire 10-60 amp discharge
even less 6 AA eneloops 3-5 amp discharge
terrible trustfire 2-3 1-3 amp discharge tendency to explode or catch fire when mistreated.
non upgrade aa 4 1.5 amp discharge
Painting anywhere that is not seen or rubs plastic on plastic is not advised so the mag well and the top of the mag.
yeah those vape sticks basically short the battery when they use them...
Hey, have you been out to one of our wars in Wilsonville? If not, we'll have another next month on the 18th.
I have yet to see any real evidence of this happening in our hobby. I have seen accounts of it in stupid situations, like vaporizer pens, but those people are all trying to kill themselves anyway.
but even if they are safe enough they still only deal 1-3 amps when most nerf guns use around 7-8 amps stall unless your rocking stock motors those only draw close to 3.
I suppose i could clarify that a bit more to most heavily modified with motor swaps. Either way anything but semi stock is going to pull more than 3 amps on those momentary spikes and those momentary spikes are bad for the batteries and it is enough that trustfires are not particularly up to the task... Will a difference be noticed probably not. But I would rather not take the chance on those li-ion venting on me...
Stall current draw is for a very short period, unless there is a jam. I have not worked out the math myself, but I am sure someone in the business already has. Also "most" blasters is really over selling it.
that is what causes the issue if you stick only 17 or 15 in the clips have less issue. Also make sure you get them loaded in the middle so they don't touch the front or back of the clip banging the back side of the clip to keep the tacky rubber from touching the front has helped prevent jams in mine. The only other way to fix this that I can think of is to lightly sand inside the front and back of the clip so it is textured rather than smooth so the darts don't get traction on the plastic.
Since you can typically squeeze 19-20 darts in an 18 round mag, try moving the bottom of the spring up with a small spacer to add some pre-compression.
http://black-tactica...azine-v2-p-3343 these are the only alternative i know of.
as far as i know there is no replacements or alternates for standard darts only stefans. you can try using some talc on the mag as the issue is the rubber part catching on the smooth plastic.
Hello! I'm brand new to this wonderful world of Nerf and I just finished modding my first Stryfe to take out all of he locks and upgrade the junk wire. At first, all was well, but I noticed after a short time that my gun was jamming... a lot. It seems that the springs in the 18 dart N-Strike Elite magazines are a known issue and I seem to have some really bad ones. Even just a few hours loaded and they're not springing back to lift the next dart into place. I was using fresh darts and they had been loaded maybe an hour or two in advance of the game. Most of my jamming started in the early afternoon/evening when they had been loaded for about 6-8 hours.
My question is in two parts:
1. Is there a way to modify this spring to be more "springy" to stop this from happening again?
2. Is there a better brand of knock-off magazines that doesn't have this issue? I've been looking at the Taobao or Blasterparts banana magazines. Is one of these more reliable? I don't really want to run stock Nerf 12's, but if that's the best answer - let me know.
Second the energizer charger is made for NiMH/NiCd 1.2v cells only you will either just ruin your 3.7v cells or make them live up to the fire part of the name.
Those L91 are not rechargeable if you remember the price you paid you will get 2-3 hours use out of them and then need to toss another pair in and repeat i dont know about where you live but those suckers are not cheap 10 bucks for 4 of them vs rechargeable...
The batteries you want are one of these Lipo 7.4 v if you go back to the motors the stryfe came with
if you stick with the hyper dash2
universal charger will charge any and all safely
If you do not want to mod the box to fit that battery in it you may use these stick with a good brand anything with fire in the name is a no no use 3 dummy for hyper dash or 2 or 1 dummy with stock motors.
Now onto the mistakes with the motors.
In parallel motors can suck more current they require the same voltage though the smell you are getting is your brushes burning. the hyper dash 2 motors like you yourself have posted are rated to 3v however they can suck 3-6A of current each so you need around 12A available minimally to be safe excess draw is going to cause heating of the cells and potential for discharge of fire. 15-20A would be preferred. To get the proper amps you have 2 options parallel packs (introduces balance issues and potential fire risks) or better cells. Now to continue the use of the hyper dash 2 you would need 1 3.7v battery even then it is going to over volt it a single LiFePSO4 would be closer at 3.3v but you already worked them at 8.4v 3.7 will be a vacation for them.
For the best performance you will want to go back to the old stock motors and toss 2 IMR in or the 7.4v lipo i linked.
There are hundreds of threads on many different sites including this one on why not to use batteries with fire in the name yet people still try doing so and then they ask why did my house burn down.
You can also go for a more complicated build they make dc-dc converter boards that handle decent amperage. Using one of those you can use whatever power supply you wish just dial it down to what the motors can handle.
The only things i did with my stryfe is a rewire going from 22 gauge to 18 gauge solid core i put a battery gauge using the jam door as a off on switch for it open the gauge is on closed gauge is off greased up the trigger mech removed all the locks. Then put 2 IMR in for 8.4v with a long dummy i made using wood glue paper and more solid core wire. i can use my AA sized dummy to do 3 imr or all 4...
The stock motors shoot happily on 2 IMR 3 they get a bit angry and noisier but hit a bit harder on 4 they scream and stink and will let the smoke out if held too long.
my tray is more or less stock
I use Efest IMR 14500 cells get the v2 they are good for about 10A of current if you do go for better motors that can draw more then go for the Lipo mod.
But my stryfe does around 80-90 FPS and my darts are semi accurate to 100 ft on 2 IMR i carry a spare 2 for if i need to swap but i have yet to do so. The batteries are like 13-20 bucks on amazon for 2-4 and a charger is 20.