i donno i think i would have gone the high road and put zombie instead of ebola. Ebola is something very real right now and yes it is hard to actually catch it you need to have contact with infected feces or blood.

I have only done 1 thing to my rs at this point i modded the tray and put 2 18650 efest imr in.

looking back efest makes imr 26650 good up to 64A a 26650 is roughly the same around as a c cell but about 1 inch shorter than 2 c cells stacked so a spacer would need to be used.

btw a 26650 would be 3400mAh so 6800mAh of capacity beats the shit out of the 1000mAh 2s lipo and 30-64A vs 25A most 1000mAh lipo i have seen are 25c you take the c rating times the capacity to get the current dischargeable.

so a 26650 purple efest is roughly 50c.

The efest purple is 3.7v (recommended discharge not to exceed 2.5a)@ 3500mah, two of these would make 7.4v @ 3500mah with 32a / 64a discharge ( or 3.7V @ 7000mah) and cost $25.30

A 40C 2200mah 3S lipo is 11.1v with 80a / 100a discharge (apples /oranges)

OR...... a zippy compact 2S Lipo 2200mah 60C (which will fit in the RS) would be 7.4V 2200mah 132a / 154a and costs $13.28 which is approximately the cost of one efest purple sub C. The 2S would eat the efests for breakfast lunch and dinner and a snack and breakfast the next morning and leave you with almost enough cash to order the BSUK switch and wiring kit. I don't understand why any one would want to go that route. If the sub C's were that great then no RC guy would be running Lipos in their rigs. I have about 12 Nimh sub C packs in an ammo box that never seen the light of day once I plugged in my first lipo pack.

But, regarding the Op's usage and my assumption he already has the IMR batts... they are probably a good choice for just a quick juice up for the basement battle with the younger kids. Cost wise not efficient but to really harness the power of the lipos you will require additional upgrades which probably aren't in his best interest atm.

Last thought, the stock 22 or 23 awg wire can fuse at around 10amps so if you want to juice up in any regard then a re-wire is really recommended. Last thing anyone wants is a slizzling blaster or a battery shorting out and popping.

http://www.efestpower.com/Product/123409115.html

where did you pull your numbers from

i don't wish to quip back and forth on IMR vs li-po but they both have their places IMR has more uses than just nerf if you vape or have a high end flash lights just as lipo have uses in R/C vehicle and nerf. Yes li-po are the best choice but i prefer IMR.

Since you can typically squeeze 19-20 darts in an 18 round mag, try moving the bottom of the spring up with a small spacer to add some pre-compression.

that is what causes the issue if you stick only 17 or 15 in the clips have less issue. Also make sure you get them loaded in the middle so they don't touch the front or back of the clip banging the back side of the clip to keep the tacky rubber from touching the front has helped prevent jams in mine. The only other way to fix this that I can think of is to lightly sand inside the front and back of the clip so it is textured rather than smooth so the darts don't get traction on the plastic.


http://black-tactica...azine-v2-p-3343 these are the only alternative i know of.

Hello! I'm brand new to this wonderful world of Nerf and I just finished modding my first Stryfe to take out all of he locks and upgrade the junk wire. At first, all was well, but I noticed after a short time that my gun was jamming... a lot. It seems that the springs in the 18 dart N-Strike Elite magazines are a known issue and I seem to have some really bad ones. Even just a few hours loaded and they're not springing back to lift the next dart into place. I was using fresh darts and they had been loaded maybe an hour or two in advance of the game. Most of my jamming started in the early afternoon/evening when they had been loaded for about 6-8 hours.

My question is in two parts:

1. Is there a way to modify this spring to be more "springy" to stop this from happening again?

or

2. Is there a better brand of knock-off magazines that doesn't have this issue? I've been looking at the Taobao or Blasterparts banana magazines. Is one of these more reliable? I don't really want to run stock Nerf 12's, but if that's the best answer - let me know.

Thank you!

as far as i know there is no replacements or alternates for standard darts only stefans. you can try using some talc on the mag as the issue is the rubber part catching on the smooth plastic.

The main question is, are 2 14500 efests enough?

the 14500 are only available in 700mAh and only about 9.85A max draw per cell fine for stock not 180s

by jumping up to 18650 you can get 2400mAh @ 30A per cell 180s can do fine a 2s li-po is cheaper sort

jump up to 26650 you can get 3500mAh @ 64A purple efest per cell or 4200mAh @ 50A green efest


mAh = run time

figure adverage of 5 amps while spinning then 10-20A on start up for a split second

There isn't. People just don't want to buy the LiPo pack and the appropriate charger since it ends up being a bit more expensive. It's probably for the best since LiPo's are actually kind of unsafe for the average user who isn't taking care when using them. Individual cells have their place for that reason.

I cant be the only one that has devices that use the numbered cells. I have 2 flashlights that run on the 18650 3 that run on 14500 and a cell phone charger that takes 18650s

now i have a stryfe and a rapid strike that uses them...

i have 0 drones 0 remote control vehicles that use the li-po why should i invest in li-po when i already had the cells...

people do 14500 in stryfe due to the clean look and in the case of rapid strikes they stick them in AA to C adapters and get drop in upgradability you are into heavy mod territory you might as well go full bore.

the rapid strike has alot more options especially if you don't shorten it.

The only mod i have done to my rapid strike is in the battery tray i put a 18650 2p1s battery tray in and soldered it to the contacts.


you could potentially go up to 26650 IMR in the stock tray and as long as you dont run more than 2 the stock pusher will only go slightly faster than 4 c cells.


*fire anything sucks and is likely a clone. i like my efest "IMR" 18650. there are 3 types of 18650 out there lifepo4 3.2 volt these are rare and expensive but take abuse readily and keep going. the normal trustfire li-ion cells these are not what your looking for same thing in laptop packs but the laptop packs might be better quality slight fire hazard... then what you want IMR Li-MN these are high discharge slightly less capacity than the li-ion might melt the gun a bit when they fail but not fire.


18650 would have about 2400mAh of capacity 14500 have 700mAh this means longer run time a 26650 would have about 3800mAh for double the run time of a pair of 18650.

Why would you buy cells when you can rescue them from laptop batteries? I have easily 60 18650 cells for very little investment.

but those cells are only able to provide about 3 amps... no better than a trust fire. you would need to make a pack out of them for anything beyond flashlights or stock+ blasters.


IMR not typically used in laptop batteries is much better than any li-ion.

Is there any Canadian here? Where can we get supply like batteries,chargers and maybe even motors online? Hobbyking is charging like 30$ for shipping and couldnt find a half decent canadian store...

amazon is where i get my stuff they have the turnigy battery packs too they dont seem to have any efests other than 18650 tho. that is on the Canadian site...

I can't say much about the 130 form factor motors. However, here is some information that may help with the 14500 batteries.

What you have to understand is that none of the batteries are made by the companies selling them. Trustfire, ultrafire, tangsfire, etc., are all resellers of these cells. The original LiCo cells are manufactured by companies such as Samsung and Sanyo and they are not sold individually.

This leads to a few issues. We have no idea where those batteries are coming from and they may very well be recycled or quality control failures. And two, the claims of battery capacity are completely false. Regardless of what the reseller has printed on the label, the 14500's will carry about 400-600mah and the 18650's around 1600-1800mah. I have heard that the Efest brand uses a different chemistry and can supply higher currents, however I have not personally tested them. At least they don't lie about the capacity of the battery, anyway.

Li-ion they use colbalt and some other materials they typically are the ones that vent and there are alot of counterfit batteries labled trustfire or ultrafire i recommend avoiding these batteries. most will handle 1A discharge some will handle up to 3-4A discharge.

Efest IMR is Li-MN or lithium manganese these are safer they can still vent but tests have shown dead shorts only causing them to heat up to around 170F then quit and read 0 volts. They can be charged just fine in the same charger as li-ion and these can put out around 10A so they will be better for recovery and stall... I use these they are made by efest and i find 2 of them work great.

Li-fe these are supposedly safer yet and are more durable however this chemistry touts a lower voltage of 3.3 as such these can not be charged in a li-ion charger and must be charged in a charger that supports them. Tenergy makes these and they have been having issues with counterfeiting.

As for a charger i suggest a nitecore d2 or i2 the newest model should handle any type of battery you have they will even do Nicd or NIMH and li-fe

http://www.amazon.co...rds=nitecore d2

http://www.amazon.co...rds=efest 14500

Also these batteries Lipo li-ion li-mn all 3 of these are considered discharged and in need of being recharged when they hit about 3.2 volts per cell this is still enough to spin the motors and fire just fine but continuing to drain them past this point will damage them. Li-ion when abused either over discharge or over charge tend to vent and cause fires.

To let me know when my batteries are low i put one of these in my stryfe http://www.amazon.co...voltage display

It has a calibration pot on it and i did calibrate mine to my multimeter and i hooked it up to the jam door switch so when i open the door it turns on. I did not cut a hole for it i just hot glued it to the inside of the plastic where i had room as it is bright enough to shine through the plastic it looks a bit fuzzy but is readable.

And for dummy batteries... you will need the following
Solid copper wire 16 gauge preferable i used 18
a AA battery for reference
a piece of paper standard printer paper is what i used
tape or elmers glue or wood glue (i recommend glue it makes for a more durable finished product.)
a pair of needle nose pliers
a pair of scissors

cut your self a piece of wire about 2 inches longer than a AA battery
now cut a strip of paper exactly as wide as a AA battery is long not out to the button on the positive side place wire at one end with a small bit hanging out the positive side and a longer bit hanging out the negative side start the roll and put some glue down as you roll the wire the paper will quickly make it the size of a AA battery when it reaches the size of a AA cut off the remainder of the paper and tape or hold while the glue sets. after the glue sets take the needle nose and curl the short bit of wire into a nub like the battery and coil the longer end tightly to form a plate at the negative end when done you should have a wire the size of a AA battery that fits and passes voltage and current over the wire. You could make the blank longer to be as long as 2AA end to end as well I find that a piece of printer paper length wise makes a AA battery when wrapped around 18 gauge solid core. You can get about 4 blanks out of one sheet.

Dont bother with the laser i got a red airsoft laser that goes on a tact rail and it was useless ripped it off soon after...

as for the 2s

8 AA batteries adds alot of weight to it doesn't it but it sounds beast you might want to look into IMR 14500 batteries they are AA size and can handle more amperage output than a alkaline.

If you want to go the pack route then your really only limited by where you can fit it you could run a cable to a belt pouch with a 10,000 mAh battery in it.

And as for motors i would not bother until the stock ones burn up then look at rc racing motors hyper dash ect but keep in mind they are meant to run on 3v-6v not 7.4-12

Videos I can not make. With a quad shot it is easy to get 30 feet of distance...with about as much spread as a standard width door.

The spread is going to be pretty dependent on how you make your shells. Where you point the barrels determines where they go. I made all mine as straight as possible.

EDIT: I am also bumping as I have added a list of all the mods I've done to this baby.

how far does the single go and did you do anything to the launcher piston

I've got no idea how far the single goes. The quad shells are much more useful.

And I only lubed up the launcher piston. Nothing else.

i saw a mod where they teflon wrapped the piston 4 times and put a thicker o ring in his demo and got his missiles to go 45 ft his he also showed all of the compression was in the last inch of the launcher.

For accuraccy mods you have 2 places you can change things the barrel or the darts you fire.

Darts you run into allowable vs not allowable and you have to worry about getting yours back at the end. So that leaves the barrel you can brass them and it helps but can decrease ranges...

i believe koush darts are allowed and also fix most of what causes the issues with nerf but you will probably loose alot of them.

modding the darts you can make nerf darts better by filling the tips with hot glue but this may not be allowed also reduces the range on them.

a heavier dart will fly straighter and wont be blown around by wind as much as a lighter/smaller one, but see how long you can shoot massively heavy darts at people until they get real upset




we dont use slurs here, we're PC as fuck

yep also dont get used to a 7kg spring those springers can make stock darts hit hard with the ar bored out.

I don't understand why people are doing this.

https://blasted.de/t4924/

Report back with chronograph readings, but I have a sinking suspicion you just threw away your money.

it is about surface area the higher the surface area the more contact or grip on the dart thus the more kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart.



To the op make a video to capture the sound it makes with those wheels also i would try it without roughing the surface first the smoothness might be a factor in gripping the dart so you may wish to use 1000-2000+ grit to polish the wheels to a mirror like finish for more grip...

For the record, you don't want lighter flywheels, they don't spin faster or anything. Heavier flywheels retain more rotational inertia and are better for repeated firing than a lighter wheel. A light wheel will spool up to full speed more quickly (possibly an unnoticeably small amount, assuming you've spent as much on a motor system as you have on these flywheels), but will lose more energy with each shot.

That said, it's possible that with aluminum wheels conventional wisdom for plastic wheels may not apply. It's likely that these are already more than heavy enough to not be affected by a stream of darts flying through. Either way, I wouldn't drill holes in your nice, new, one-of-a-kind flywheels unless your motors aren't up to snuff, even then I'd suggest upgrading the motors instead.

you would want as much weight to the outside ring as you can. With the overall weight being as low as possible. That said if your motors can spin them up fine i would not bother with holes if they have issues with wind up time then lighten them but right now they are probably evenly weighted any holes will change the balance.

I, too, have been doing a lot of research on flywheel blasters, motors, and batteries. Though I haven't gotten to actually try them out for myself (saving for a house takes a good bit out of the hobby budget), I suggest the motors talked about here in place of the stock motors. No afterburners required, but you will need to cut some holes in the shell because the motors are a bit longer than the stock ones.

Run them using a 2S (7.4V) LiPo, with something like a 25C rating. I think that they will also handle a 3S LiPo (11.1V I believe) if you really wanted, so running them via 9Volt shouldn't burn them up.

On the other hand, because you'll be getting less current out of the 9Volt battery, you'll probably have problems with spinup time and rapid-fire (in other words, your range will decrease and/or your gun will jam if you try to fire too quickly).

I suggest reading that blog for more info. You'll want to rewire the blaster with larger gauge wire and use a better acceleration switch (all of which will let the LiPo get more current to the motors).

Most 25c 2s 7.4v will provide ~10-30A the best a 9v can do is .2A those motors suck down around 3-10A stall and use 1-3A at speed this means a 9v will not last for more than a few shots and those shots are going to suck. The only option that works without too much modification is imr 14500 li-mn batteries rayven holds 3 AA stock 2 and a dummy battery will make it scream and you wont need motors or afterburner my stryfe fires about 100 ft stock motors with 2 of these ditch the idea of using 9v batteries they have no use in nerf unless they are powering a flashlight.

To clear up confusion, Yes I am intending to brass the Rayven, and I probably will not brass the interior of the barrel extension, as it will just be there to under-mount my other project, an inline shotgunned triad with a larger piston for more range. My question was actually whether there was a grease or lubricant I can use to reduce friction in the barrel, so as to not slow down the dart as much? I'm not going for something that can be used to eat shit from 1000 feet away, but I like to hedge my bets on the powerful side so I can have to tune it down, instead of put more money into it to up tune it a second time. For the batteries, does 2s versus 3s make a difference? I know(I think) that the more mAH a batter has, the longer it will last, but what difference do the amount of cells make, if any? we are ordering motors and batteries in a couple of days, so I am trying to get all of my stuff ironed out so that my dad and I can bundle it all in one order. Also, thank you for being so amazingly prompt to answer my questions, though I haven't been as prompt as I wish I could be in answering yours. Thank you again!

With flywheels brassing is nearly pointless mostly a cosmetic thing the make or break for flywheels is the power supply, motors and flywheels. The rayven has some great wheels to mod look up lightening them and it will show you how to cut material from them to make them lighter and spin up better. For grip plasti dip or i have been toying with the idea of lightly sanding my flywheels to give them a rougher surface thus adding grip. The motors higher rpm means faster flywheels for faster darts too fast flywheels melt off the shafts or just melt the darts. If this is happening turn down the rpms/voltage or add grip to flywheels some how either by using stiffer foam for less collapse i like the straw method to make my darts stiffer. Or by coating the flywheels in something or even small holes but i wanted to avoid that as it tears up darts a bit faster or comes off overtime. It should be mentioned coating the flywheels in plasti dip will slightly increase mass outward. And nerf xd version blasters with flywheels have a cage with the wheels closer together for more crush and grip.

2s vs 3s is 7.2-8.4v vs 11.1-14.4v extra cell is more voltage need to be careful about what the motors can handle. You will want to start with 2s on the stock motors any more than that shortens the life.

It is very tricky as you hit about 110 fps the darts become the limiting factor more so than the gun firing them and you can make flywheel blasters hit that mark by simply replacing the power supply. A 2s lipo at 7.4 is enough to get you up there and you can make other improvements to get a few more fps or feet by pushing the rpm up more and more coat the flywheels and lighten them and bump the voltage up more then the motors give out replace them with motors that can run even faster at higher voltage. And the gains are just hampered by darts that fly off mark so consistently you end up with 30 to 50ft of useful accuracy where a slower flywheel can do up to 100ft with acceptable accuracy.

So my advise is baby steps your just now getting into tuning the flywheel blasters put the rc connector in and rewire it with good wires 16 Gauge Silicone Wire the rayven can be turned into a really simple circuit just the battery and the momentary switch btw the one in the stock blaster is only rated to about .5A you can pass more but it will eventually burn replacing the switch is advised pick out a momentary that can handle more 15A seem sufficient. While your in there you can toss some connectors to disconnect the motors and replace them later when you burn out the stock motors.

you can run the stock motors on the IMR 14500 or 2s lipo the IMR has the benefit of looking fully stock you can use 2 or 3 but 2 is a decent improvement over AA and does not make the darts hit so hard that they feel too non stock but it does make them fly further and hit about as hard as the best shot stock.

It is not even dummy cells since you need 2 you need a spacer at one end just under an inch thick with a thick wire connecting the 2 cells

That said a 18650 is more easily available and useful in more ways I have 12 18650 I got from laptop batteries 4 from flashlights and 2 imr for my rs

This. "Traditional" lithium batteries, i.e. not IMR, have been used for a long time in all sorts of electronics with varying levels of protections, failures are pretty rare.
As long as you stick with something that is purpose made for the task, and is of high quality, you'll be fine.

Quality RC packs for example, are built for high discharge applications and the cells within the pack were properly matched. Those wont give you issues.

Trustfire and similar Lithium cells are bad and labeled as dangerous by some since they're not meant for high discharge at all. So when you demand a lot from those batteries, they get hot quick and thats when things can get dangerous.



its all good.

Yep nothing wrong with lithium cells as long as you don't abuse them. Non IMR typically only have issues with the following; multiple cells not equally charged in series, cells that have been fully killed then recharged, cells that are overcharged, cells with physical damage, or shorting the neg to positive terminals. With a quality charger like the nitecore i2/4 d2/4 or imax b6. It would be fine to use them.

But that said nerf is a sport jarring and dropping blasters are common.

Everyone bashes against trustfire/ultrafire batteries. What's the problem? They make a normal flywheel blaster shoot substantially harder, with little/no modification to the circuit, motors, or shell.

The issues occur due to multi cell use with the uneven discharge this causes hot cells that can vent fire hot hydrofluric acid possibly into your face. Li-mn and li-fe just get hot then stop working. Lipo batteries can on a whim swell to 3 times the correct size and vent hydrogen typically on fire so you have a torch burning hot enough to melt steel followed by a lithium fire you can't just put out with water or most fire extinguishers.

But that's fine if you want to melt your face off you may.

then there is the fake fires sold on amazon and eBay which can be old cells forced to take a charge literally ticking time bombs can go off left in a drawer with nothing to short it. or small 30mAh cells stuffed into the can with flour or plaster to make the weight right. So it charges shows voltage but only has 30mAh instead of 3000mAh.

you will see lots of issues showing up in relation to vaping but realize vaping is shorting high resistance wire to produce heat so intentional shorting of a dangerous cell... If they used control boards to prevent a short on the battery they would not have mods becoming rocket propelled cylinders.

Question, how much of a performance difference do you notice with 18650s while keeping everything else stock?

I've been conflicted as to how I want to modify my own RS.

RC Pack + Charger = $40 after shipping from Hobbyking
2x18650 = $15-ish + another $15-25 for a charger (like a Nitecore D2/D4)
2x26650 = $22 for battery + charger ^

It seems like with stock wiring/internals, the RC pack wouldn't provide and extra performance over the IMR solutions. But for a slightly higher "price of entry", the RC pack route has more leftover potential for future upgrades.

night and day vs c batteries the darts fly 50-80Ft i can empty the full clip in about 3-4 seconds and it spins up rather quick.

I bought a nitecore d4 and my batteries. I really like the d4. And i have flashlights and usb chargers that use 18650 cells.

Err to be clear though, I wouldn't consider IMRs to be a drop-in for the RS unless you want to use the low capacity 14500 cells with AA to C spacer/converters.

The 18650 and 26650 cells are both longer than the standard C cell alkaline battery. So you would need to do at least a tiny bit of modification to get them to fit.

They are longer than a single c by about 1 inch not enough to take the place of 2 c inline.

I bought a 18650 2s1p protected battery tray and used 2 sided tape to stick it in the battery tray i used a rotary tool to remove the center divider and drilled out a hole to enlarge the area where the contacts sit and i soldered the wires directly to the contacts

Thinking back to how i modded it one could probably solder 16 awg to the plate and run it through the holes into the tray. Or you could sit both halfs of an xt60 connector on the one side of the shell with one in the battery tray would preserve the function of the tray while allowing the use of 30-60A IMR 26650 (MORE THAN ENOUGH AMPS).

Hello I recently did full motor replacement and rewire on a rapidstrike. I was looking at IMR and Trustfire batteries, but have seen some videos and vape forms on batteries exploding and failing. Has anyone on here had any batteries fail?

i have seen videos on li-ion trust/sure/ultra fires 18650 laptop cells venting i have also seen videos of li-po turnigy packs venting after swelling like a balloon and i have personally seen a samsung phone battery swell up 3 times the size it is supposed to be.


I have never found an IMR video on them venting only them getting purposely shorted getting to almost 200F fusing the wire then dropping to 0v

Efest makes a 26650 IMR cell with high discharge up to 30A that would fit in the stock rapidstrike tray with a little modding.

I've been researching a bit about batteries for the RS this past weekend since I just ordered a new RS from Target.

Anyway, from the information I've found, Trustfire or other Li-Ion 14500, 18650, 26650 cells are not good for our blasters because they dont have enough current output capability.

IMRs are better as they do provide enough current, as Lunas suggested. It seems like Efest Purple cells are the most popular. Efest 26650 IMR cells would fit in the stock battery tray since the cells are the same diameter as C-size Alkalines, but they're 15mm longer. From my personal searching, I though the GREEN Efest 26650 IMRs would be best since they provide less current than the Purples but have more capacity and the current is still enough for Nerf uses.

However, I've also had a few people convince me to go with the RC battery pack route and directly wire the battery rather than use the stock or any battery holder as those have inherently high resistance.

I had a lot of advice from others on the Nerf sub-reddit: http://www.reddit.co...in_rapidstrike/

I have a Rapidstrike i upgraded the battery tray with a pair of 18650s in series for 8.4-7.4v the stock wiring is fine for the stock motors and stock contacts if you motor swap you will want to run wires to the end of the springs or to another method of connecting the tray or direct wire to a pack the stock springs and contacts should be good up to about 10A if you are running motors that can pull more than that perhaps epoxying a connector to the inside and then to the battery tray would be a good idea.

MOST battery types are dangerous if mistreated. Ultrafire/trustfires can explode if overdrawn (There are reports of this happening in stampedes). IMRs can spew fire if punctured. LiPos will spew fire if punctured and shorted. Rule of thumb when dealing with ANYTHING explosive/flammable? Take precautions, and handle it appropriately.

Fact: Gasoline is extremely explosive, but we pump GALLONS of it inside our cars and DRIVE AROUND over 70 MPH!!!

There are very few battery failures in Nerf period. And I imagine they all stem from abuse or overdrawing the battery with too much current. You see a lot more battery failures in quad copters because they ride the jagged line of max current and weight and sometimes mess up the math. Just build some cushion so you don't draw too much amperage from your battery and don't poke it with nails/jagged edges.

yep we are all driving rolling bombs (gasoline or lithium battery packs) carrying bombs (any portable device with a lipo example any cell phone or laptop or tablet) and wearing bombs on our wrists (any smartwatch)


for that matter alkaline batteries can explode too and they are filled with potassium phosphate or lye...

If you really want something that wont explode stick to potatoes and lemons...

Because Ultrafires are crap batteries. They have very low current, lots of voltage sag, and their specs are HIGHLY exaggerated. They are designed for flashlights, not motors.

and imr are less crap but still not ideal for anything but lights. Lipo packs are best if you need convenience and have good lights you might have better options with imr. If you have r/c and use lipo for more than just nerf then lipo might be better.

Ebay is a bad source a lot of fake batteries

Stock motors run fine on IMR cells but these are expensive
Nitecore i2 charger
Nitecore d2 charger with car adaptor and battery storage box
Nitecore i4 4 slot charger
d4 4 slot (i have this)

these should fit in a rapidstrike tray in place of the c-cells with the center divider gone
18650 30A discharge
10A imr efest 18650

14500 10A efest


for lipo hobby king has excellent prices and sells through amazon...
charger

you want the red efest v2 size 14500 they should deliver around 9.8 amps if you can mod to fit 18650 size cells they have batteries that will do 64 amps purple efest

the v1 red efests do around 2 amps so make sure you get v2.

I made my own dummies out of paper and wire and wood glue...

Also, If i use a microswitch rated for .5 amps, will some nimH cells or a 2 amp lipo burn it out when i get some crazy stall motors?
and i dont get why lighter flywheels can be dangerous

Normal NiMH can only push at best 1500mA Normal AA can only do .5A or 500mA. If you use a microswitch rated to .5A only .5A can pass through it without generating heat over that can go through it but it will heat and can fail. Example of what can happen you have a stryfe you have blades in it low resistance wire and use a 25-50c battery pack then you use the switch that came with the stryfe the motors will attempt to draw up to 10A when a jam or dart hits the flywheels the only thing your gun has that cant handle that type of load is the switch. When the motors start pulling the amperage the switch passes it as best it can as it exceeds the switch it gets hotter and hotter until thermal failure occurs something burns or melts.

Stock motors with better wires and cleaned up circuits will have little issue with the stock switches and amperage under 3A if you upgrade the brushes/motor and raise the voltage a better switch might be in order.

This is why i feel unless your going for the full rebuild you dont need a lipo pack if your doing wires, motors and a lipo pack why keep the old switches might as well change them too.

What is better? Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's or these? http://www.ebay.ca/i...=item234020055e

The axle are a bit long you will need to cut them probably.

Loaner strong arm, spectre, retaliator. Basically if it is over 20 in cost or overly complex to use don't loan if it is something that you care if it goes missing or gets broken dont loan. If it is a reliable stockish weapon perfect.

dont loan your custom
dont loan a diggery do
dont loan your rolex

Hello Nerf Haven,
I have done all the basic mods to my strife (taken out electronic/mechanical locks and rewired) as well as replaced the stock motors with the Solarbotic's RM2s (This was a while ago, I realize now that it was a possible waste of money.)
I am now looking to buy the standard ultrafires/trustfires to up the voltage. I'm in Canada, so because of weird rules/lack of website support/Canadian import taxes that I'm definitely not an expert on, I (think) I need to order them from ebay.ca or amazon.ca. I have tried ordering a couple before but long story short I didn't receive them. There is also a lot of fake ultrafires that are being sold.

I came to ask my fellow Canadian's if they could give me a link(s) in order to buy 6 ultrafires/trustfires with a charger, and a dummy battery.

I would prefer for these to be tested sellers so I don't get scammed again. The number of batteries the charger supports doesn't concern me, I just need the correct batteries (size/voltage/capacity) in order to run in my stock AA battery tray.
Your help is very much appreciated.
Thanks, eh?

i would not go for anyfire...

amazon ships to canada
this site apparently stocks the but is oos right now http://www.canadaeju...ttery- Flat top

 

14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.

 

A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.

 

Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

im a bit late on my reply but...

 

when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.

 

My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.

like he said ^ MANDATE eye ware at my last event i did not bring my eye wear and got hit in my eye with a stock retaliator it hurt like hell even though it was stock.

I would place certified stock or under 110 fps with stock darts only as my rules 80-110 fps will still shoot over 100ft

Do you think if the flywheel had an indentation for the innertube section to sit inside it, that it would stay in place? I can get something like this made and test it relatively easily/cheaply.

the centrifugal force is spinning the tube off the wheels only better glue or thermal bonding would help.

i donno i get pushing the envelope but there is a correlation to how inaccurate a shot it is vs how hard it is flung out you hit this plateau very easy. How many full customs accurately shoot foam over 200 FPS and to how far is that accurate? And i can tell you this 100 fps hits hard enough. Anything higher you might as well just go paintball.