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#348500 Zeus Hopper

Posted by Lunas on 24 August 2015 - 05:25 AM in Modifications

how does it push the balls forward

#343324 What to do with empty nerf blaster shells?

Posted by Lunas on 05 December 2014 - 06:41 PM in General Nerf

Is that possible yet to grind your own plastic up and extrude filament for a 3D printer? If so the idea of getting a 3D printer might be moving up on my list.


not all 3d printers use abs

making filament is not too difficult you just need to heat the material evenly and precisely until it gets to a uniform consistency then it gets pushed through a die

#343874 Usable Dimensions for Rapidstrike tray

Posted by Lunas on 03 January 2015 - 07:49 PM in Off Topic

I used my calipers a while back to measure mine it is about 28mm deep 117mm long and 54mm wide you should be able to fit 2 26650 batteries side by side if you cut out the center support and the 2 end supports you will have about 1cm at each end of the battery you would need to adjust for...

Ill redo my measurements later tonight and repost but those are the numbers i remember from when i measured mine. you do get a bit more room by dropping the tray and just using the front. But I like to keep my nerf guns semi stock and would like to if i have to drop back to stock.

#343796 Trustfire IMR Batteries?!?!

Posted by Lunas on 31 December 2014 - 06:55 PM in Modifications

EBay trust fires... do we need to go over the biggest source for counterfeit cells again. They are not even cheaper than the red efest on amazon.

Buy the purple efest and mod for 18650 size or the 14500 red v2 they do about 10A the purple do 30A-60A though finding them in 14500 has been not fun. Also the eBay auction listed those at aaa size or 10440. Either the lister has a typo or he knows nothing about batteries.

#346171 Super loud flywheels

Posted by Lunas on 14 April 2015 - 07:19 PM in Modifications

well you can also line most of the gun with neoprene craft foam as a sound insulator and is it at stock voltages? if your running it off c batteries right now you might not like doing any voltage mods as they all make it louder... i run mine on 2 18650 imr efest v2 for 7.4-8.4v it is about 33% louder than it was on c cells.

#346199 Super loud flywheels

Posted by Lunas on 15 April 2015 - 11:47 PM in Modifications

a voltage mod is not hard improves the performance greatly but makes it louder in exchange for longer distance.

#349149 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 17 October 2015 - 03:38 PM in Modifications

First stop if your unwilling/unable to do it right don't do it at all.

Second the energizer charger is made for NiMH/NiCd 1.2v cells only you will either just ruin your 3.7v cells or make them live up to the fire part of the name.

Those L91 are not rechargeable if you remember the price you paid you will get 2-3 hours use out of them and then need to toss another pair in and repeat i dont know about where you live but those suckers are not cheap 10 bucks for 4 of them vs rechargeable...

The batteries you want are one of these Lipo 7.4 v if you go back to the motors the stryfe came with
if you stick with the hyper dash2
universal charger will charge any and all safely

If you do not want to mod the box to fit that battery in it you may use these stick with a good brand anything with fire in the name is a no no use 3 dummy for hyper dash or 2 or 1 dummy with stock motors.

Now onto the mistakes with the motors.

In parallel motors can suck more current they require the same voltage though the smell you are getting is your brushes burning. the hyper dash 2 motors like you yourself have posted are rated to 3v however they can suck 3-6A of current each so you need around 12A available minimally to be safe excess draw is going to cause heating of the cells and potential for discharge of fire. 15-20A would be preferred. To get the proper amps you have 2 options parallel packs (introduces balance issues and potential fire risks) or better cells. Now to continue the use of the hyper dash 2 you would need 1 3.7v battery even then it is going to over volt it a single LiFePSO4 would be closer at 3.3v but you already worked them at 8.4v 3.7 will be a vacation for them.

For the best performance you will want to go back to the old stock motors and toss 2 IMR in or the 7.4v lipo i linked.

There are hundreds of threads on many different sites including this one on why not to use batteries with fire in the name yet people still try doing so and then they ask why did my house burn down.

You can also go for a more complicated build they make dc-dc converter boards that handle decent amperage. Using one of those you can use whatever power supply you wish just dial it down to what the motors can handle.

#349019 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2015 - 03:54 PM in Modifications

that is going to depend. If he uses it stock with regular batteries there is no reason for the thermistor it just adds a little bit of resistance to the circuit. The inductors also drop the voltage a bit too but raise the amperage.

But the bottom line is unless he does a full rewire with either lipo or IMR there will be no noticeable change. And really the biggest change will be with new motors too. There is a metal flywheel cage with upgraded flywheels out there that just looks sweet some neoprene washers on the mounting posts is all i would do in addition...

#349127 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 15 October 2015 - 09:44 PM in Modifications

Noise is normal for flywheels

The only things i did with my stryfe is a rewire going from 22 gauge to 18 gauge solid core i put a battery gauge using the jam door as a off on switch for it open the gauge is on closed gauge is off greased up the trigger mech removed all the locks. Then put 2 IMR in for 8.4v with a long dummy i made using wood glue paper and more solid core wire. i can use my AA sized dummy to do 3 imr or all 4...

The stock motors shoot happily on 2 IMR 3 they get a bit angry and noisier but hit a bit harder on 4 they scream and stink and will let the smoke out if held too long.

my tray is more or less stock

I use Efest IMR 14500 cells get the v2 they are good for about 10A of current if you do go for better motors that can draw more then go for the Lipo mod.

But my stryfe does around 80-90 FPS and my darts are semi accurate to 100 ft on 2 IMR i carry a spare 2 for if i need to swap but i have yet to do so. The batteries are like 13-20 bucks on amazon for 2-4 and a charger is 20.

#342110 Stryfe Motor Replacement Disappointment

Posted by Lunas on 21 September 2014 - 07:54 PM in Modifications

To cut to the meat of what you need to do to fix it.

1. Flywheels

Remove the electrical tape therfore is a number of things you can use:
Flex seal
Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating
plasti dip<- most people use this it is cheap but eventually wears off.

I also wonder if just lightly sanding them with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to get the smooth sheen off the flywheels would be enough.

2. Batteries

IF you absolutely need to use AA shaped sized batteries that you can get in a place like wal-mart your stuck using NiMh or lithium primaries.
With rm2 you cant go much above stock 6 volts with proper current or you will fry them unless you c-mod them.

Best:Highest discharge Reasonably safe. Most expensive you will be looking at 10-40$ for the battery and 20-300$ for a charger.
4.2v rc lipo pack look for tenergy or a well made pack
w/brush replacement
7.2-11.1v rc race pack tenergy is a good brand you need a balance charger

Acceptable: less expensive than rc pack more expensive than nimh 10-15 for a pair of imr and 15-20 for a nitecore d4 charger. Use 1 or 2 in parallel unless you c-mod the rm2 using 2 in series is the most you should try 2 in series is 8.4v fresh off the charger 7.4v is what they will drop to then when dead 6.2v If you continue to run them down you will damage the cells and end up with batteries that wont take a charge.
14500 size lithium batteries li-Mn or Li-Fe-po4 High current they are available up to 20A discharge rates these chemistry are much much safer than Li-ion Li-Fe being the safest of the 2...
14500 Efest IMR Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 AW imr Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 Tenergy Li-Fe-Po4 3.3v

Bad: the cheapest about 10$ gets you 4 batteries and a charger. Nimh deliver about 1-2A in bursts but don't have the capacity to sustain much more than that. Lithium primaries can do 3 A continuous or 5A burst.
AA NiMH batteries 1.2v batteries
Lithium primary energizer or photo cells AA

worst:4-6 dollars a pop for 4 low current discharge
AA duracell rayovac energizer doesn't matter what they add to the end of it they all suck 500mA draw is the best they can muster.

*****Fire Li-ion unprotected cells (your asking for a fire or a face full of lithium hydroxide)
goes by many names: Trustfire and ultrafire are most common these are the typical cell most modders used at first they are good for about 2-5A draw and they are the most volatile they have been known to propel flashlights around the room like a rocket propelled on highly toxic gas that even a little bit can damage your lungs permanently.

Fix those 2 issues you should see about 110 FPS and around 70-90ft ranges. Some sort of voltage monitor would be advised to add to the setup with anything rechargeable draining them past a point will damage them.

#347904 Stryfe Flywheel Braking

Posted by Lunas on 17 July 2015 - 09:07 PM in Modifications

So for the later part of the past few months I have been working on a Stryfe Falcon 130 build. I want to add some sort of braking to the motors so when I let go of the rev trigger the motors stop almost immediately. I have seen videos of finished projects of this type but no diagrams on how the circuit is set up. I know I need to run a wire from the motors to the switch but am un sure if it's off of the positive or negative wire and to what terminal on the switch (I think it's to the Normally closed terminal (also what terminal is that, my wiring loom is coming to me prebuilt from http://www.blasterte...3_13607495.aspx)). If someone could help me out in pointing me in a direction as to a diagram or better yet pictures, I'd be more than appreciated. If it helps any I plan on running this blaster off of a 3S Lipo (not sure if it makes any difference)

not really for motor braking it is connecting the positive and negative side of the motors the diode is the actual thing you want though as it serves the same purpose and is actually something your supposed to do with dc motors or inductors...

You should put a diode across the terminals of the motor this will stop them from generating power and feeding it back into the circuit as they spin down. Add the diode pointing towards the positive on both motors this is the safest method and costs very little i think 2 diodes can be had for like 10 cents...

Or you can take the jam door switch and put it as the new rev switch the second and 3rd pin 2 pins will be the on off for the rev circuit and the 1st pin connected to the negative on the battery tray is the brake...

http://www.mouser.co...fX4nEEHllp3mZcc .18 cents each you need 2

#342243 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 03 October 2014 - 01:55 AM in Modifications

It's not opinion. Battery ratings aren't user based. Google 'Trustfire explosion,' or similar.

It is a known fact that "fire" batteries can vary from 500mA up to 4A discharge current and most fall in the 2-3A range unless they are cheap low quality cells. The stock motors are made to do with 500mA at best with 4 AA batteries. By giving them a proper power source they can scream to their hearts content. IMR or LI-MN cells discharge 10A-35A burst and should be the only drop in choice anyone considers. Lipo packs like most suggest are expensive but they are far better than any others you can pickup ones that can do 50-100A burst discharge.

Also trust fire and ultra fire are very commonly counterfeited look up counterfeit ultrafire dissection. There are 3 ways they are faked the worst is when they put a 30 mAh foil pack inside an 18650 can and fill the rest with sand or flour or plaster dust so the weight is close enough. There are just cheap cells not made very well these are the fire balls waiting to happen. Then there are 900mA cells labeled 3800mAh.

I would pull cells from laptop batteries before i bought a fire brand. For 14500 cells aw or efest imr are better than any fire and they can do decent amps.

#342355 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 October 2014 - 09:57 PM in Modifications

I have recently bought IMR Batteries and have only put about 30 rounds through my Stryfe before the Thermistor shut down my blaster. I will rewire my Stryfe over the weekend, but I was wondering: Is it safe to run a Stryfe on four IMRs for long term usage? I'm using the stock motors. Thanks!

I would not there is a rather steep curve upward on noise from these motors. I would run on 2 or 3 but personally i run 2 and keep 2 charged for when the first 2 are exhausted.

If you need a battery blank i made my own using a sheet of paper and a solid core wire down the center with a coil on either end. I simply rolled a piece of paper around a wire until it was as thick as a AA then put glue on either end then stripped the wire ends and coiled them to form terminals... i have 2 one that is 2 AA end to end long one that is a single AA long removes and sits just as a battery would.

#342257 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 03 October 2014 - 07:06 PM in Modifications

Lithium batteries from a laptop are not high discharge, though. Just FYI.

no they have a discharge of 3-5A but it is a cheaper reliable source of quality cells vs spinning the wheel on a *fire brand battery if you're after 18650 size. 14500 you need to spin the wheel and you should not run any cell other than imr or li-fe. Normal unprotected Li-ion are asking for bad things.

#342392 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 04:32 AM in Modifications

Whoa. I just watched a video of a trustfire explosion and it was insane! Apparently those things can explode even when not in use and are just being stored! I am never buying those things in my life. I am going to have to stick to lipo's forever.

Just be sure to not get the soft package ones and treat them with respect... Sure they are safer but if they get punctured or you exceed the current draw they can violently vent or puff... Nothing good ever spits out of a battery when they vent... I have also read about someone who charged their *fire battery properly they put it in a drawer for use later nothing shorting it or anything he came into his shop after hearing a pop and it was the battery having vented...

Most safe
Li-ion protected
Li-ion quality cellsLi-ion
Cheap Chinese Li-ion *FIRE brandsBoom and Fake
Less safe

In mods with STOCK wiring and motors a good set of IMR or LiMn batteries is fine the stock motors wont draw over 10A.
In mods with Alternate high voltage motors LiPo, LiFe or NiMH packs. You can use these with stock motors but thermal fuses must in most cases be removed.
In mods with alternate low voltage motors A 1s LiPo LiFe or NiMH or AA NiMH are the choice you need to keep in mind most of these motors are 3v they can be over volted a bit to 4.5 or maybe 6v at most...

also any battery that gets abused can explode including alkaline...

#342272 Stryfe Battery Mod: Upgrading to Lipo while Retaining Stock AA capabil

Posted by Lunas on 04 October 2014 - 10:58 PM in Modifications

Yes, you are correct.

If that is the one thing you remove from the internals i highly suggest it. It is just a mechanical lock that gets in the way more than it helps honestly i would pull all the mechanical locks and trim the top of the rev trigger so the dart trigger does not hit it rather than trimming the dart trigger like most guides suggest.

Also what are the run times like for that battery pack?

My next mod is going to be the addition of a volt meter inside my stryfe when i do ill get pictures of my rewire with solid core 18 gauge it was interesting to work with. I may or may not swap the stock rev switch to a 10A switch. and i may or may not use the jam door switch to turn off and on the volt meter i also thought about placing the volt meter where you have your battery so when i check the voltage i flip it up get the reading close it turns off the meter. I tested it and when placed against the plastic you can read the numbers through the plastic so it can be super stealth.

#342281 Stryfe Battery Mod: Upgrading to Lipo while Retaining Stock AA capabil

Posted by Lunas on 06 October 2014 - 02:16 AM in Modifications

I call bullshit on those shots-per-charge calculations. 300mAh is a tiny battery. Stock motors have winding impedances of something like 12-15 ohms, right? Even if we give them a relatively conservative number like 20 ohms, they'll still be pulling about 300-350mA at 7.4V. That gives them less than an hour of operation under ideal conditions. So I don't buy it.

The shots per charge was not calculated in a very accurate way it doesn't take into account that as the battery drops it drops quicker the lower it gets. Also the 35C constant 75C burst is 300mA * 35 and 300*75 for 10.5 amp constant and 22.5 amp burst this kinda puts it down to imr range.

For those that did not know C rating is a measure of how much current can be discharged it represents the capacity of the battery array * rating C = amps possible. So if you have a battery that is 300mA with 25c constant it can deliver 10.5 amps constantly.

I think unless your running non stock motors that pull 20 or more amps you dont really need to run these lipo packs you can do IMR. Are they ideal? No, but the good chargers for them can do other chemistry too. I use a nitecore d4 to charge mine it does NiMH, Li-ion, Li-Mn, Li-Fepo4 and Nicd and it has a 12v input so i could use my car accessory plug to charge them.

my stryfe is running on a pair of these they are ~14c
efest v2 IMR 14500 3.7v High Discharge
Maximum Continuous Discharge Rate: 9.75A
Maximum Continuous Charging Rate: 1.3A
Chemistry: Li-MN
Rated Capacity: 700mAh

#342274 Stryfe Battery Mod: Upgrading to Lipo while Retaining Stock AA capabil

Posted by Lunas on 05 October 2014 - 12:34 AM in Modifications

Good tips, thank you. I like these ideas.

I have not formally monitored the battery life. However, I have fired about 200 darts through my Stryfe with the Turnigy Lipo and it's dropped from 4.16v/cell to 3.96v/cell, which linearly extrapolates to 860 darts before the Turnigy Lipo needs to be swapped out (low voltage alarm is set to go off at 3.3v/cell.

Start/End Voltage: 4.16/3.96 = 0.2v used
Darts Fired: 200
4.16v-3.3v = .86v/.001 = 860 dart battery life (SD +/-80)

Dang, I like the idea of a digital voltage meter. I could probably trim out a window on starboard side and rig my digital voltage meter/alarm for viewing. I like your top side idea better though, more functional.

Those are the ones i got. Like i said no cutting needed the plastic of the nerf gun lets enough light through that you can just glue it to the inside and it shows through. In the stryfe on either side of the magazine area the meter is thin enough that it doesn't interfere. I'm also thinking near the back on the left half of the shell it should not interfere with the trigger but ill have to decide when i get around to putting it in where exactly it will end up.

#342263 Stryfe Battery Mod: Upgrading to Lipo while Retaining Stock AA capabil

Posted by Lunas on 04 October 2014 - 12:42 AM in Modifications

is that the dart sensor still in there?

#344240 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 13 January 2015 - 10:23 PM in Modifications

Does anyone here know what nimh aa's can discharge high enough for 180's?

the only nimh packs that can are ones like this http://www.summitrac...r3S6xoCpvTw_wcB

but yes i should have clarified that i was talking about dropping the 180 in favor of motors that run well at stock voltages and used normal batteries or standard rechargeables. But honestly if the kid is as dumb as the op is making him out to be then he should not be handling the gun in the first place he will likely put his own eye out or mangle a finger.

#344185 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 12 January 2015 - 01:57 AM in Modifications

I just came across these: http://m.dx.com/p/us...ry-green-360333 and they seem to be too good to be true for the price.

those are li-ion the ones that are typically dangerous it also states the actual capacity is 1700mAh I would not be shocked if the 30A rating is the burst draw and the sustained is much lower.

#343959 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 05 January 2015 - 10:07 PM in Modifications

has anyone tried something like these http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B0057QCGRM
and if so are they the same thing as like trustfires?

no they are better but not high discharge like you need those are 1C so 400 mA.

these would be better http://www.amazon.co...rds=efest 14500 and do close to 10A discharge if you can jump 1 more size up to 18650 purple efests can do 30A

#344173 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 11 January 2015 - 07:03 PM in Modifications

Then again, you could always run more if you mount externally.

we are talking a stryfe and 18650 size cells personally speaking there is only so much bulk i would want hanging on the outside and 2 18650 is about my limit for pistol config but i suppose 2 on either side of the mag would fit too.

#344165 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 11 January 2015 - 04:50 PM in Modifications

That is just about perfect except it might be too big to fit in a stryfe. Anything LiFePo4 is much safer than *fires. *fires are absolute sh1t.

they would be running close to stock voltage with 2 of them within margin of error on a alkaleak/lithium primary assuming 1.6v on all 4... without a motor swap it likely would not net you much of a gain.

where as a li-mn cell almost as safe as lifepo4 and 7.4-8.4v with 2 of them for 1.4-2.4v over volt on most motors.

Yea I do not want IMRs, I was just wondering if those would work. Maby I can find a better one.

Why not?

li-ion are the dangerous ones and are what most trustfires are.

li-mn are imr and are safe

Lifepo4 safest most durable chemistry...

Li-ion and li-mn are charged in the same charger and my charger the nitecore D4 has an option to charge lifepo4

#344232 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 13 January 2015 - 06:43 PM in Modifications

Because they can vent and this is for a commission for a 12 year-old.

those are li-ions that vent

imr get hot that is it.



if you really need it to be drooling idiot proof drop the 180s get some plasma dash or tamyias and stick NiMh or alkalines

#343920 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 04 January 2015 - 10:02 PM in Modifications

What store might have NIMH packs?

I think this same battery is available in radioshack.

(sorry about the quote backspaced too far.

i doubt that pack has more than a 5A discharge. The wires are so thin...


#345388 Stryfe Batteries Heating Up!?

Posted by Lunas on 07 March 2015 - 03:10 AM in Modifications

The protection PCB should keep them safe. That's kind of the entire reason it's there.

That said, ultrafires are very unfit for this purpose. A brief google search fails to find their official safe discharge rate. Similar li-ion cells are rated to about 1-2C, which means these can really only deliver about 1A continuous. Those motors ask for 2.8-3.8A at 2.4-3.0V. You're feeding them 11.1V, so they're actually probably drawing somewhere in the ballpark of 10A or more at times. This is for one motor, you're driving two, so double that. 20A is something that even unprotected ultrafire 14500s will never, ever be able to do unless you run something like 10 or 15 of them in parallel.

Ultrafires and their cousin trustfires have their place, but driving motors is not it. Feeding 11.1V to motors rated for 3 is not a good place to be either. Sure, the Tamiyas might be able to handle it, but I'd be very careful. What you really should do is get a 1S (lithium) or 3cell (nickel) battery pack that can deliver enough current.

So back to the beginning question. Are your batteries safe? I'd say probably, but you're abusing the hell out of them, and I'm really not sure how the protection PCB will react.

When higher than normal current is drawn the protection shuts down the cell that cell that is not taking a charge either got discharged below or tripped the circuit. If you must go up to at least imr batteries they will be better off than the ultrafires which i would dispose of at this point or store them in a fire proof box. It sounds like the op over discharged them.

The best option would be a lipo 1s with the highest amperage he could find. Next a single purple efest 18650 30A. after that efest v2 14500 if possible 2 in parallel i have been toying with the idea of reworking my stryfe's battery box to have 2p2s efest 14500 v2 also i would recommend a voltage monitor addition to prevent over discharge in the future.

#343918 Strongarm Malfunction

Posted by Lunas on 04 January 2015 - 09:49 PM in General Nerf


I found out that its never the same barrel that doesnt shoot as far. Sometimes the gun fired 6/6 nicely, other times its a 5/6, and other times its a low 3/6 or 2/6. Any way i can avoid this?

sounds like dart wear you might want to check the foam pad on the plunger if it is damaged or worn that is the seal that hits the cylinder and makes the seal to fire the dart. that spring might be weak or broken.

#347071 Stampede Problems

Posted by Lunas on 06 June 2015 - 07:31 PM in Modifications

try spinning the motor it might be stuck... or burnt out another thing would be make sure all the locks are actuated...

Also kill leader... dont you need a custom Rapidstrike or stryfe/rayven for that these days...

#348454 Srtyfe Battery Inquiries

Posted by Lunas on 20 August 2015 - 01:52 AM in Modifications

1. If I run a 2s 25c LiPo, will it be weaker than Ultrafires or not? (High Discharge but low voltage)
A. It will be equal to running 2 ultrafires
2. If I run a 3s 20c LiPo, is it necessary to change my rev switch into a high current micro switch?
A. Maybe the original switches are rated much lower they will eventually burn out and don't pass as much current but stock motors on 3s you can skip the switch upgrade for now you should think hard about doing it eventually.
3. If I run a 500mAh pack and I'm playing for 5 hours, do I need to bring 2 packs? (don't want to cut shell)
A. depends on motors and play style how heavy handed you are on the rev switch. From what i have found 800-1000 is the biggest that fits in a stryfe with a little bit of modding as in removing dividers and support ribs on the battery door
4. Can anybody give me a link for tutorials on how to charge LiPos using a smart charger? (maybe an IMAX B6 Balance Charger?)
A. Google youtube then "how to use imax b6. first result
5. My LiPo has a JST discharge plug and a JST-XH balance plug, if I want to plug both into my Stryfe or my balance charger, what terminals should I use for the Stryfe and the charger? (Male/Female)
A. The stryfe wont have anything you will need to install something to plug into the balance port and the discharge the jst is what you will plug into the stryfe you will need something like this
6.Do stock motors spin fast on a 2s LiPo? (Related to Question 1)
A. I find they do fine on 2 IMR which would be like a 2s 700mAH 10c
7. How do I solder a Female JST plug to my wire to plug LiPos in? (if you have a link, it's fine)
http://www.amazon.co... plug connector
it should be pretty self explanatory you run the two wires into the guts of the stryfe and where the 2 wires connect to the battery tray you connect the jst

google and search will both give you numerous how to on modding the stryfe most commonly a rewire mod first result on google search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4AR9fvwlYw ONLY thing i have to say about the video is those "resistors" are not resistors they are Transistors they drop voltage and increase amperage but are not needed.

odd how all of your questions are not yes or no...

another useful bit of knowledge is here is a listing of max acceptable amperage for a given wire size we would be looking at both chassis is more short bursts and what we would use primarily but for longer use the transmission is important too as at a given amperage the wire will heat up and eventually melt
AWG max Amp chassis  max Amp power transmission
10	55	      15
11	47	      12	
12	41	       9.3	
13	35	       7.4	
14	32	       5.9	
15	28	       4.7	
16	22	       3.7	
17	19	       2.9	
18	16	       2.3	
19	14	       1.8	
20	11	       1.5

#345728 Simple minimized rapidstrike (+AA conversion)

Posted by Lunas on 21 March 2015 - 09:48 PM in Modifications

pretty gnarled up there plans to paint it? honestly i would have gone with a lipo or imr mod rather than AA

#343030 retaliator problems

Posted by Lunas on 23 November 2014 - 07:37 PM in Modifications

alright thanks for that.

Well there are two locks involved one in-front of the trigger next to the mag lock and one on the bolt sled itself i removed both from mine and i have no issues you can tell if you are primed by the feel of the trigger too it will feel heavier than non primed with no locks...

the plunger tube may be in upside down that is really the only way the lock on the bolt sled can malfunction

#341413 Retaliator Hard Prime Issue

Posted by Lunas on 21 August 2014 - 07:17 AM in Modifications

To me it sounds like your plunger needs to be replaced the front edge came off and that is what kept that plunger from getting up over the ridge stop in the piston chamber.

What i would do is grease it up to see if it helps if it solves the issue great if not i would say that you removed too much dead space you could trim down the hot glue slowly until the issue gets fixed.

Just remember that without the AR dry fires are not recommended they will break parts.

#342570 Rapidstrike Revving Problem

Posted by Lunas on 25 October 2014 - 06:24 PM in General Nerf

I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.

look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.

#342075 Rapidstrike Revving Problem

Posted by Lunas on 19 September 2014 - 08:07 PM in General Nerf

Like the silverhead said it is normal nerf put a limiter that gets removed when the pusher motor is activated when you hold it down the motors go full speed when you just run the acceleration switch the flywheels run at 75% or so.

If you are handy and know your way around a soldering iron then you could just mod it.

#343145 Rapidstrike motors and rough cut gears

Posted by Lunas on 27 November 2014 - 01:45 AM in Off Topic

So would those motors work with IMRs or trust fires?

yes but not as well as a lipo pack the 180s tend to pull a bit more stall amps than IMR provide the stock motors are not so bad with 2 IMR i tossed 2 IMR 18650 in my battery tray the gun is a whole new beast and the balance it toward the center rather than forward. Mind you mine is stock.

There are a lot of threads on motors it uses the same motors as the stryfe ANY 130 size will fit in the stock spot the pusher motor can be replaced with out modding the shell with a 180 you need to mod the pusher tray. Honestly i want to put a brushless set in mine Mainly due to liking the start up sound some make just think you are getting ready and it is time to start so you flip the master on deet deet doo deet then those motor sounds...

#346720 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement

Posted by Lunas on 13 May 2015 - 09:55 PM in Modifications

If I were you, I would boost the number of AA's to 8. This will lead to 12 volts, and a fair amount of current. From my experience, stryfe motors can handle a pretty decent amount of current, but totally fry if you get higher than 16 volts running through them.

Also, I would coat the flywheels in something. What I do is wrap them tightly in electrical tape in direction that the flywheels spin. After the wrap, I use a hair dryer on the highest setting to warm up the electrical tape. It is crucial that the tape is wrapped in a way that when the flywheels spin, the seam that the tape makes is not able to be peeled back.

My stryfe shoots 50-70ft flat with 2 imr and full rewire. With that many AA you might as well jump to imr you will go through that many AA while playing.

#346759 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement

Posted by Lunas on 14 May 2015 - 11:18 PM in Modifications

Did you even see what he said? Imr's cost 14 euro's where he lives for just a pack of 2. Then you also have to add a special charger to that.

I recommended 8 AA's because they are cheap and accessible. In Addition, the current from 8 AA"s is greater than 2 Imr's, which will lead to greater performance and less damage to the motors.

Umm no alkaline can not provide more current than imr.

Alkaline can at most do 3 amps but most can only do 2.5A and they last 40 minutes tops so piss through those batteries like water and how long does it take to burn 14 euro in alkaline.

NiMh can do 5 amp discharges and last for 2.1 Ah so at 2 amp discharge you get maybe an hour.

IMR 10-60A depends on grade and size of cell most 14500 do 10A.

Now 8 AA in series is 12v the stock motors were rated for 6v we over volt them at a cost to life at a given voltage the stall current increases. It does not matter if it is an imr or if it is alkaline 12v will kill those motors just as well from either source.

http://www.amazon.de...rds=efest 14500
9.90 eur

http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore d4
charger does li-mn, NiMh, LiFE, li-ion, NiCD

http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore i2

#346809 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement

Posted by Lunas on 17 May 2015 - 04:21 PM in Modifications

Thanks for your very detailed feedback. Luckily I had a soldering iron and already took out all the junk from the inside of the blaster. Unfortunately your ebay seller doesn't ship to Germany :( I,ll try to solder the battery holder in place and feed the wires through the back of the stock mount, so that I'm able to close the original battery holder again. I will also mount the new battery holder with something more durable. I don't play that often (2-4 hours a week) so the alkalines should last relatively long. In fact 4 of the 6 batteries that I'm currently using are still the ones that I put in when I bought the blaster about 4 months ago, so they should still be cheaper and if I really need to I can still swap them for IMRs.

Have a good day!

the links i gave were for amazon in germany... 9.90 euro for a pair of imr you only really need 2 and a bypass for the other 2 cells you can run 3 safely 4 will burn out the motors.

and the same charger for li-ions works with imr.

#343505 [Guide] Rapidstrike with 18650s in stock battery tray

Posted by Lunas on 14 December 2014 - 06:27 PM in Modifications

Been meaning to find the time to post my tray


I am going to eventually open my RS and when i do I may add another method of transferring power from tray to gun im thinking of mounting a xt60 connector to the occupied side of the gun so i could open it without cutting the negative terminal again... If i ever do make this modification ill make my own thread on how i did it.