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#344165 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 11 January 2015 - 04:50 PM in Modifications

That is just about perfect except it might be too big to fit in a stryfe. Anything LiFePo4 is much safer than *fires. *fires are absolute sh1t.

they would be running close to stock voltage with 2 of them within margin of error on a alkaleak/lithium primary assuming 1.6v on all 4... without a motor swap it likely would not net you much of a gain.

where as a li-mn cell almost as safe as lifepo4 and 7.4-8.4v with 2 of them for 1.4-2.4v over volt on most motors.

Yea I do not want IMRs, I was just wondering if those would work. Maby I can find a better one.

Why not?

li-ion are the dangerous ones and are what most trustfires are.

li-mn are imr and are safe

Lifepo4 safest most durable chemistry...

Li-ion and li-mn are charged in the same charger and my charger the nitecore D4 has an option to charge lifepo4

#343959 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 05 January 2015 - 10:07 PM in Modifications

has anyone tried something like these http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B0057QCGRM
and if so are they the same thing as like trustfires?

no they are better but not high discharge like you need those are 1C so 400 mA.

these would be better http://www.amazon.co...rds=efest 14500 and do close to 10A discharge if you can jump 1 more size up to 18650 purple efests can do 30A

#344185 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 12 January 2015 - 01:57 AM in Modifications

I just came across these: http://m.dx.com/p/us...ry-green-360333 and they seem to be too good to be true for the price.

those are li-ion the ones that are typically dangerous it also states the actual capacity is 1700mAh I would not be shocked if the 30A rating is the burst draw and the sustained is much lower.

#344232 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 13 January 2015 - 06:43 PM in Modifications

Because they can vent and this is for a commission for a 12 year-old.

those are li-ions that vent

imr get hot that is it.



if you really need it to be drooling idiot proof drop the 180s get some plasma dash or tamyias and stick NiMh or alkalines

#344240 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 13 January 2015 - 10:23 PM in Modifications

Does anyone here know what nimh aa's can discharge high enough for 180's?

the only nimh packs that can are ones like this http://www.summitrac...r3S6xoCpvTw_wcB

but yes i should have clarified that i was talking about dropping the 180 in favor of motors that run well at stock voltages and used normal batteries or standard rechargeables. But honestly if the kid is as dumb as the op is making him out to be then he should not be handling the gun in the first place he will likely put his own eye out or mangle a finger.

#343920 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 04 January 2015 - 10:02 PM in Modifications

What store might have NIMH packs?

I think this same battery is available in radioshack.

(sorry about the quote backspaced too far.

i doubt that pack has more than a 5A discharge. The wires are so thin...


#344173 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 11 January 2015 - 07:03 PM in Modifications

Then again, you could always run more if you mount externally.

we are talking a stryfe and 18650 size cells personally speaking there is only so much bulk i would want hanging on the outside and 2 18650 is about my limit for pistol config but i suppose 2 on either side of the mag would fit too.

#346763 Best nerf gun to loan out

Posted by Lunas on 15 May 2015 - 02:03 AM in General Nerf

Loaner strong arm, spectre, retaliator. Basically if it is over 20 in cost or overly complex to use don't loan if it is something that you care if it goes missing or gets broken dont loan. If it is a reliable stockish weapon perfect.

dont loan your custom
dont loan a diggery do
dont loan your rolex

#349019 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2015 - 03:54 PM in Modifications

that is going to depend. If he uses it stock with regular batteries there is no reason for the thermistor it just adds a little bit of resistance to the circuit. The inductors also drop the voltage a bit too but raise the amperage.

But the bottom line is unless he does a full rewire with either lipo or IMR there will be no noticeable change. And really the biggest change will be with new motors too. There is a metal flywheel cage with upgraded flywheels out there that just looks sweet some neoprene washers on the mounting posts is all i would do in addition...

#349149 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 17 October 2015 - 03:38 PM in Modifications

First stop if your unwilling/unable to do it right don't do it at all.

Second the energizer charger is made for NiMH/NiCd 1.2v cells only you will either just ruin your 3.7v cells or make them live up to the fire part of the name.

Those L91 are not rechargeable if you remember the price you paid you will get 2-3 hours use out of them and then need to toss another pair in and repeat i dont know about where you live but those suckers are not cheap 10 bucks for 4 of them vs rechargeable...

The batteries you want are one of these Lipo 7.4 v if you go back to the motors the stryfe came with
if you stick with the hyper dash2
universal charger will charge any and all safely

If you do not want to mod the box to fit that battery in it you may use these stick with a good brand anything with fire in the name is a no no use 3 dummy for hyper dash or 2 or 1 dummy with stock motors.

Now onto the mistakes with the motors.

In parallel motors can suck more current they require the same voltage though the smell you are getting is your brushes burning. the hyper dash 2 motors like you yourself have posted are rated to 3v however they can suck 3-6A of current each so you need around 12A available minimally to be safe excess draw is going to cause heating of the cells and potential for discharge of fire. 15-20A would be preferred. To get the proper amps you have 2 options parallel packs (introduces balance issues and potential fire risks) or better cells. Now to continue the use of the hyper dash 2 you would need 1 3.7v battery even then it is going to over volt it a single LiFePSO4 would be closer at 3.3v but you already worked them at 8.4v 3.7 will be a vacation for them.

For the best performance you will want to go back to the old stock motors and toss 2 IMR in or the 7.4v lipo i linked.

There are hundreds of threads on many different sites including this one on why not to use batteries with fire in the name yet people still try doing so and then they ask why did my house burn down.

You can also go for a more complicated build they make dc-dc converter boards that handle decent amperage. Using one of those you can use whatever power supply you wish just dial it down to what the motors can handle.

#349127 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 15 October 2015 - 09:44 PM in Modifications

Noise is normal for flywheels

The only things i did with my stryfe is a rewire going from 22 gauge to 18 gauge solid core i put a battery gauge using the jam door as a off on switch for it open the gauge is on closed gauge is off greased up the trigger mech removed all the locks. Then put 2 IMR in for 8.4v with a long dummy i made using wood glue paper and more solid core wire. i can use my AA sized dummy to do 3 imr or all 4...

The stock motors shoot happily on 2 IMR 3 they get a bit angry and noisier but hit a bit harder on 4 they scream and stink and will let the smoke out if held too long.

my tray is more or less stock

I use Efest IMR 14500 cells get the v2 they are good for about 10A of current if you do go for better motors that can draw more then go for the Lipo mod.

But my stryfe does around 80-90 FPS and my darts are semi accurate to 100 ft on 2 IMR i carry a spare 2 for if i need to swap but i have yet to do so. The batteries are like 13-20 bucks on amazon for 2-4 and a charger is 20.

#344119 180 Setup Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 10:48 PM in Modifications

Why would you buy cells when you can rescue them from laptop batteries? I have easily 60 18650 cells for very little investment.

but those cells are only able to provide about 3 amps... no better than a trust fire. you would need to make a pack out of them for anything beyond flashlights or stock+ blasters.

IMR not typically used in laptop batteries is much better than any li-ion.

#343368 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 08 December 2014 - 12:54 AM in Modifications

Question, how much of a performance difference do you notice with 18650s while keeping everything else stock?

I've been conflicted as to how I want to modify my own RS.

RC Pack + Charger = $40 after shipping from Hobbyking
2x18650 = $15-ish + another $15-25 for a charger (like a Nitecore D2/D4)
2x26650 = $22 for battery + charger ^

It seems like with stock wiring/internals, the RC pack wouldn't provide and extra performance over the IMR solutions. But for a slightly higher "price of entry", the RC pack route has more leftover potential for future upgrades.

night and day vs c batteries the darts fly 50-80Ft i can empty the full clip in about 3-4 seconds and it spins up rather quick.

I bought a nitecore d4 and my batteries. I really like the d4. And i have flashlights and usb chargers that use 18650 cells.

#343470 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 12 December 2014 - 12:48 PM in Modifications

It is not even dummy cells since you need 2 you need a spacer at one end just under an inch thick with a thick wire connecting the 2 cells

That said a 18650 is more easily available and useful in more ways I have 12 18650 I got from laptop batteries 4 from flashlights and 2 imr for my rs

This. "Traditional" lithium batteries, i.e. not IMR, have been used for a long time in all sorts of electronics with varying levels of protections, failures are pretty rare.
As long as you stick with something that is purpose made for the task, and is of high quality, you'll be fine.

Quality RC packs for example, are built for high discharge applications and the cells within the pack were properly matched. Those wont give you issues.

Trustfire and similar Lithium cells are bad and labeled as dangerous by some since they're not meant for high discharge at all. So when you demand a lot from those batteries, they get hot quick and thats when things can get dangerous.

^_^ its all good.

Yep nothing wrong with lithium cells as long as you don't abuse them. Non IMR typically only have issues with the following; multiple cells not equally charged in series, cells that have been fully killed then recharged, cells that are overcharged, cells with physical damage, or shorting the neg to positive terminals. With a quality charger like the nitecore i2/4 d2/4 or imax b6. It would be fine to use them.

But that said nerf is a sport jarring and dropping blasters are common.

#343363 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 07 December 2014 - 10:59 PM in Modifications

I've been researching a bit about batteries for the RS this past weekend since I just ordered a new RS from Target.

Anyway, from the information I've found, Trustfire or other Li-Ion 14500, 18650, 26650 cells are not good for our blasters because they dont have enough current output capability.

IMRs are better as they do provide enough current, as Lunas suggested. It seems like Efest Purple cells are the most popular. Efest 26650 IMR cells would fit in the stock battery tray since the cells are the same diameter as C-size Alkalines, but they're 15mm longer. From my personal searching, I though the GREEN Efest 26650 IMRs would be best since they provide less current than the Purples but have more capacity and the current is still enough for Nerf uses.

However, I've also had a few people convince me to go with the RC battery pack route and directly wire the battery rather than use the stock or any battery holder as those have inherently high resistance.

I had a lot of advice from others on the Nerf sub-reddit: http://www.reddit.co...in_rapidstrike/

I have a Rapidstrike i upgraded the battery tray with a pair of 18650s in series for 8.4-7.4v the stock wiring is fine for the stock motors and stock contacts if you motor swap you will want to run wires to the end of the springs or to another method of connecting the tray or direct wire to a pack the stock springs and contacts should be good up to about 10A if you are running motors that can pull more than that perhaps epoxying a connector to the inside and then to the battery tray would be a good idea.

#344106 180 Setup Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 04:03 PM in Modifications

There isn't. People just don't want to buy the LiPo pack and the appropriate charger since it ends up being a bit more expensive. It's probably for the best since LiPo's are actually kind of unsafe for the average user who isn't taking care when using them. Individual cells have their place for that reason.

I cant be the only one that has devices that use the numbered cells. I have 2 flashlights that run on the 18650 3 that run on 14500 and a cell phone charger that takes 18650s

now i have a stryfe and a rapid strike that uses them...

i have 0 drones 0 remote control vehicles that use the li-po why should i invest in li-po when i already had the cells...

#343378 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 08 December 2014 - 04:19 PM in Modifications

Everyone bashes against trustfire/ultrafire batteries. What's the problem? They make a normal flywheel blaster shoot substantially harder, with little/no modification to the circuit, motors, or shell.

The issues occur due to multi cell use with the uneven discharge this causes hot cells that can vent fire hot hydrofluric acid possibly into your face. Li-mn and li-fe just get hot then stop working. Lipo batteries can on a whim swell to 3 times the correct size and vent hydrogen typically on fire so you have a torch burning hot enough to melt steel followed by a lithium fire you can't just put out with water or most fire extinguishers.

But that's fine if you want to melt your face off you may.

then there is the fake fires sold on amazon and eBay which can be old cells forced to take a charge literally ticking time bombs can go off left in a drawer with nothing to short it. or small 30mAh cells stuffed into the can with flour or plaster to make the weight right. So it charges shows voltage but only has 30mAh instead of 3000mAh.

you will see lots of issues showing up in relation to vaping but realize vaping is shorting high resistance wire to produce heat so intentional shorting of a dangerous cell... If they used control boards to prevent a short on the battery they would not have mods becoming rocket propelled cylinders.

#344094 180 Setup Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 11:07 AM in Modifications

The main question is, are 2 14500 efests enough?

the 14500 are only available in 700mAh and only about 9.85A max draw per cell fine for stock not 180s

by jumping up to 18650 you can get 2400mAh @ 30A per cell 180s can do fine a 2s li-po is cheaper sort

jump up to 26650 you can get 3500mAh @ 64A purple efest per cell or 4200mAh @ 50A green efest

mAh = run time

figure adverage of 5 amps while spinning then 10-20A on start up for a split second

#343455 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 11 December 2014 - 06:55 PM in Modifications

Err to be clear though, I wouldn't consider IMRs to be a drop-in for the RS unless you want to use the low capacity 14500 cells with AA to C spacer/converters.

The 18650 and 26650 cells are both longer than the standard C cell alkaline battery. So you would need to do at least a tiny bit of modification to get them to fit.

They are longer than a single c by about 1 inch not enough to take the place of 2 c inline.

I bought a 18650 2s1p protected battery tray and used 2 sided tape to stick it in the battery tray i used a rotary tool to remove the center divider and drilled out a hole to enlarge the area where the contacts sit and i soldered the wires directly to the contacts

Thinking back to how i modded it one could probably solder 16 awg to the plate and run it through the holes into the tray. Or you could sit both halfs of an xt60 connector on the one side of the shell with one in the battery tray would preserve the function of the tray while allowing the use of 30-60A IMR 26650 (MORE THAN ENOUGH AMPS).

#344071 180 Setup Question

Posted by Lunas on 08 January 2015 - 08:32 PM in Modifications

people do 14500 in stryfe due to the clean look and in the case of rapid strikes they stick them in AA to C adapters and get drop in upgradability you are into heavy mod territory you might as well go full bore.

the rapid strike has alot more options especially if you don't shorten it.

The only mod i have done to my rapid strike is in the battery tray i put a 18650 2p1s battery tray in and soldered it to the contacts.

you could potentially go up to 26650 IMR in the stock tray and as long as you dont run more than 2 the stock pusher will only go slightly faster than 4 c cells.

*fire anything sucks and is likely a clone. i like my efest "IMR" 18650. there are 3 types of 18650 out there lifepo4 3.2 volt these are rare and expensive but take abuse readily and keep going. the normal trustfire li-ion cells these are not what your looking for same thing in laptop packs but the laptop packs might be better quality slight fire hazard... then what you want IMR Li-MN these are high discharge slightly less capacity than the li-ion might melt the gun a bit when they fail but not fire.

18650 would have about 2400mAh of capacity 14500 have 700mAh this means longer run time a 26650 would have about 3800mAh for double the run time of a pair of 18650.

#343353 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 07 December 2014 - 05:38 PM in Modifications

Hello I recently did full motor replacement and rewire on a rapidstrike. I was looking at IMR and Trustfire batteries, but have seen some videos and vape forms on batteries exploding and failing. Has anyone on here had any batteries fail?

i have seen videos on li-ion trust/sure/ultra fires 18650 laptop cells venting i have also seen videos of li-po turnigy packs venting after swelling like a balloon and i have personally seen a samsung phone battery swell up 3 times the size it is supposed to be.

I have never found an IMR video on them venting only them getting purposely shorted getting to almost 200F fusing the wire then dropping to 0v

Efest makes a 26650 IMR cell with high discharge up to 30A that would fit in the stock rapidstrike tray with a little modding.

#344817 Flywheel Coating

Posted by Lunas on 06 February 2015 - 02:12 AM in Modifications

That's why I was wondering about bed armour. Thick, rough and rubber based. Seems like it couldn't hurt...

it could there are 2 thing you don't want to do 1 knock them out of balance 2 make them heavier and thus slower to spin up.

the force of the dart leaving the barrels is derived mainly from the speed at which the fly wheels spin. Torque is if the flywheels keep spinning under load as well as the mass of load and resistance to slowing down. Grip is what allows a the dart to receive the kinetic energy if a dart was too slick and not enough grip the fly wheels will just rip it up as it leaves.

the question is with the materials used which produces more friction a glass smooth surface or a rougher surface.

#344803 Flywheel Coating

Posted by Lunas on 05 February 2015 - 07:31 PM in Modifications

i would think texturing it would be better than coating it with anything very light roughing up with sandpaper?

#348077 Looking for good Stryfe motors!

Posted by Lunas on 26 July 2015 - 11:59 PM in Modifications

I am also wondering if you need to replace the rev switch.

you should if you want a bit more complex of a circuit you could put a relay or a dc-dc voltage and current controller it would offer a bit of adjustment for you.

#348100 Looking for good Stryfe motors!

Posted by Lunas on 27 July 2015 - 11:46 PM in Modifications

I have ran 2 IMRs before, and I have never had to. The stock one works just fine with my wire setup, which is simply battery box -> rev switch -> motors

the stock switch is good for around 3 amps not much more can be drawn through it to get the very most out of it you should replace it or use a relay to have a high current and a low current side.

#344860 Custom flywheel cage?

Posted by Lunas on 08 February 2015 - 06:10 AM in Modifications

i donno i get pushing the envelope but there is a correlation to how inaccurate a shot it is vs how hard it is flung out you hit this plateau very easy. How many full customs accurately shoot foam over 200 FPS and to how far is that accurate? And i can tell you this 100 fps hits hard enough. Anything higher you might as well just go paintball.

#344858 Custom flywheel cage?

Posted by Lunas on 08 February 2015 - 02:32 AM in Modifications

Do you think if the flywheel had an indentation for the innertube section to sit inside it, that it would stay in place? I can get something like this made and test it relatively easily/cheaply.

the centrifugal force is spinning the tube off the wheels only better glue or thermal bonding would help.

#347242 flywheel idea

Posted by Lunas on 16 June 2015 - 11:47 PM in Modifications

Why hasn't anyone tried brushless motors? Hobbyking and eBay have tons of cheap outrunner brushless motors and ESCs. It looks like you could build a simple servo controller for the ESCs with a 555 timer chip and a few resistors and caps. Plus with an outrunner motor you should be able to just screw the flywheel right to the motor. Brushless motors can take much more voltage and are more durable too.
Just wondering?

they have



#347266 flywheel idea

Posted by Lunas on 17 June 2015 - 08:51 PM in Modifications

it is kinda nerdy but i wanted to do a brushless for the startup sound turn on the gun for the 4 startup beeps then the motor sounds...

#348500 Zeus Hopper

Posted by Lunas on 24 August 2015 - 05:25 AM in Modifications

how does it push the balls forward

#346976 Aluminum Flywheels

Posted by Lunas on 29 May 2015 - 02:09 AM in Modifications

For the record, you don't want lighter flywheels, they don't spin faster or anything. Heavier flywheels retain more rotational inertia and are better for repeated firing than a lighter wheel. A light wheel will spool up to full speed more quickly (possibly an unnoticeably small amount, assuming you've spent as much on a motor system as you have on these flywheels), but will lose more energy with each shot.

That said, it's possible that with aluminum wheels conventional wisdom for plastic wheels may not apply. It's likely that these are already more than heavy enough to not be affected by a stream of darts flying through. Either way, I wouldn't drill holes in your nice, new, one-of-a-kind flywheels unless your motors aren't up to snuff, even then I'd suggest upgrading the motors instead.

you would want as much weight to the outside ring as you can. With the overall weight being as low as possible. That said if your motors can spin them up fine i would not bother with holes if they have issues with wind up time then lighten them but right now they are probably evenly weighted any holes will change the balance.

#344541 130 vs 180 Pros/Cons

Posted by Lunas on 23 January 2015 - 06:57 PM in Modifications

I have only done 1 thing to my rs at this point i modded the tray and put 2 18650 efest imr in.

looking back efest makes imr 26650 good up to 64A a 26650 is roughly the same around as a c cell but about 1 inch shorter than 2 c cells stacked so a spacer would need to be used.

btw a 26650 would be 3400mAh so 6800mAh of capacity beats the shit out of the 1000mAh 2s lipo and 30-64A vs 25A most 1000mAh lipo i have seen are 25c you take the c rating times the capacity to get the current dischargeable.

so a 26650 purple efest is roughly 50c.

#342569 Epoxy Question

Posted by Lunas on 25 October 2014 - 06:13 PM in Modifications

No I didn't make any cuts to the demolisher. I made a strayven b4 and the cuts r pretty similar. I was originally gunna make a rayven rapidstrike rough cut and jolt integration but none if the places I went to had rapidstrikes so we just got demolishers. My friend also made a centurion demolisher. PM me if u need any help I guess

Did you improve the seal on the demolisher missile plunger? Also i have been meaning to ask this of a demoilisher owner is the center tube of the missile if you cut off the grate on the front would a elite fit snug down that to the point you could use it as a single direct fire spot for if you did not have a missile to reload? IF yes have you done so and how well do they fire from it?

#346967 Aluminum Flywheels

Posted by Lunas on 28 May 2015 - 06:03 PM in Modifications

I don't understand why people are doing this.


Report back with chronograph readings, but I have a sinking suspicion you just threw away your money.

it is about surface area the higher the surface area the more contact or grip on the dart thus the more kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart.

To the op make a video to capture the sound it makes with those wheels also i would try it without roughing the surface first the smoothness might be a factor in gripping the dart so you may wish to use 1000-2000+ grit to polish the wheels to a mirror like finish for more grip...

#342580 Epoxy Question

Posted by Lunas on 26 October 2014 - 04:53 PM in Modifications

i didnt do anything to the seal yet how do u think i should do it? Ya i removed that grate thingy and a dart fits in it but the dart is kinda too skinny so if u fire it with the dart inside, the air goes like around the dart so it doesnt even go all the way out. I then tried to make the dart fatter by wrapping it with duct tape so then it fit perfectly in the center tube but when i fired it, it went like 10' and the accuracy is like whale shit. the missiles are better and i dont recommend using the darts.

and tiff, i added u

On the one i saw he wrapped the plunger head in teflon tape 4 times and then put the o-ring on and greased it. For the missile barrel i would not alter the darts but instead glue a insert of nested brass or cpvc into the abs tube to make it fit the dart better as long as you don't increase the size outward the missile should fire still.

#344582 130 vs 180 Pros/Cons

Posted by Lunas on 25 January 2015 - 01:08 AM in Modifications

The efest purple is 3.7v (recommended discharge not to exceed 2.5a)@ 3500mah, two of these would make 7.4v @ 3500mah with 32a / 64a discharge ( or 3.7V @ 7000mah) and cost $25.30

A 40C 2200mah 3S lipo is 11.1v with 80a / 100a discharge (apples /oranges)

OR...... a zippy compact 2S Lipo 2200mah 60C (which will fit in the RS) would be 7.4V 2200mah 132a / 154a and costs $13.28 which is approximately the cost of one efest purple sub C. The 2S would eat the efests for breakfast lunch and dinner and a snack and breakfast the next morning and leave you with almost enough cash to order the BSUK switch and wiring kit. I don't understand why any one would want to go that route. If the sub C's were that great then no RC guy would be running Lipos in their rigs. I have about 12 Nimh sub C packs in an ammo box that never seen the light of day once I plugged in my first lipo pack.

But, regarding the Op's usage and my assumption he already has the IMR batts... they are probably a good choice for just a quick juice up for the basement battle with the younger kids. Cost wise not efficient but to really harness the power of the lipos you will require additional upgrades which probably aren't in his best interest atm.

Last thought, the stock 22 or 23 awg wire can fuse at around 10amps so if you want to juice up in any regard then a re-wire is really recommended. Last thing anyone wants is a slizzling blaster or a battery shorting out and popping.


where did you pull your numbers from

i don't wish to quip back and forth on IMR vs li-po but they both have their places IMR has more uses than just nerf if you vape or have a high end flash lights just as lipo have uses in R/C vehicle and nerf. Yes li-po are the best choice but i prefer IMR.

#342340 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 09 October 2014 - 02:53 PM in Modifications

Lipo that 9v is junk and dangerous it will not have very good current nor will it charge in typical 9v chargers safely no protection and i don't even know of a charger that does 9v li-ion batteries with a margin of safety.

You will need to buy a charger that supports li ion 9v they are around 25-50 as well and from the reviews they don't last very long

#342393 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 05:05 AM in Modifications

Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.

the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.

the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.

A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.

Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...

Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can

the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.

#342362 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2014 - 04:52 PM in Modifications

I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.

Actually in my research I found the current lithium primary could provide was vastly inferior. While better than both alkaline and NiMH a lithium primary is still worse than a li-ion 14500 cell. Energizer's data sheet claims 3A continuous with 5A pulse 2 seconds at 5A 8 seconds off. A quality cell not *fire brand should do at least 3A continuous with 6th bursts and be rechargeable.

However the capacity of a lithium primary is greater than a li-ion (trustfire) but lithium primary are a one and done situation. And at 10 dollars per 4 pack you might as well invest in a lipo pack or imr rechargeables. (Capacity of energizer lithium tests out at 2480 mAh @ 3A)

Li-ion- generally quality cells can do 3A- 5A continuous
Li-mn/imr do about 10A continuous.
Lipo packs do 10 - 100A continuous dependant on features of the pack c rating * capacity =amperage

#342406 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 08:29 PM in Modifications

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.

also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.

With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo