RPM doesn't directly influence fps, per say. It's the speed of the edge of the flywheel. Since your flywheels are connected by a belt, the edge speed is the same on both. This has no advantage over simply feeding the dart in the larger wheels in the back, and has the added disadvantage of extra friction in the system.

not to mention the added mass will reduce the run time significantly that said you would need to maintain tension on the belts or bands making this blaster even heavier this would be a good thing for if we needed a high torque motor in this type of setup but we don't torque equates to how much mass can be tossed out rpm gives you how fast it will be going relative to how much kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart as in how much the dart slips on the flywheels as it moves through...

The faster the flywheels are spinning the faster the dart will end up how much momentum the dart picks up is dependent on the grip and slippage. Torque is a matter of how much the wheels will slow down when they are hit with the load of the dart...

this is all gear ratio the smaller gear in the front would be more rotations for every one rotation of the torquey slower motors in the rear example a 3 to 1 gear ratio as in for every one rotation of the big wheel equals 3 rotations of the smaller wheel this also adds speed to the small wheel the small wheel will spin 3 times faster than the big wheel. idea is not bad but makes for a clunky heavy gun and honestly i would just stick with current designs they are simpler and easier to work with than figuring this out and then keeping your fingers out of the danger zone...

You could design it to be driven by 1 motor but there will be another gear involved to get them spinning the right way.

But the speed of the edge of the gear would be exactly the same on the small and large gears. Unless you can't find larger flywheels and simply must use the stock ones, there is no advantage to this system over using large flywheels. And if you desperately need to use stock flywheels and want to make them spin faster, you're better off buying faster motors than dealing with belts and pulleys and having to make sure they're tensioned properly, and aren't going to explode from the speeds.


This. I don't know of any really hardcore tests done, but I believe we've long since hit the peak flywheel velocity from single flywheel pairs.

which is why i said to stick with current designs no sense in trying to reinvent the wheel. current designs are very simple this would add un-needed complexity current designs 2 identical motors spin directly 2 wheels the opposite way of each other given the same power source they spin at the same velocity.

pretty gnarled up there plans to paint it? honestly i would have gone with a lipo or imr mod rather than AA

we need better details than it didn't fire...

such as it would jam up frequently or it had poor distances

if it is jamming up it is likely the dart lock in which case open it pull out the orange spring loaded thing it serves only one purpose to keep the trigger from being pulled without a dart pushing it up.

if it is just getting poor distances that is somewhat normal do a power supply mod and perhaps rewire that will fix that.

if the motors are either not working going to need to figure out why and while your at it either swap them for ones that work or rewire it and fix the break and while your at it remove the locks...

well you can also line most of the gun with neoprene craft foam as a sound insulator and is it at stock voltages? if your running it off c batteries right now you might not like doing any voltage mods as they all make it louder... i run mine on 2 18650 imr efest v2 for 7.4-8.4v it is about 33% louder than it was on c cells.

a voltage mod is not hard improves the performance greatly but makes it louder in exchange for longer distance.

you could using the 1.2 v rechargeable go with a motor swap race motors like the plasma dash or hyper dash are meant to run at those voltages rather than the over volt the imr give...

if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...

I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.

but that simply is not true it will reduce the number of rechargeable for other devices that are used in your household that would make better use of the low amperage low voltage batteries... Also NiMH go bad just like every other chemistry you will burn them out quicker than the devices currently using them.

there is no getting around the fact that NiMH AA batteries are not the optimal cell for this application Li-MN lasts longer preforms better and is over all better served in this case and lipo is even better...

if you absolutely must use the 1.2v NiMH batteries then i recommend a motor swap rather than strapping more cells onto your rig...

plasma dash or mach dash they are meant to run off 3-4.5v that would be the better option vs strapping a battery holder and cutting the end plate in half in the gun and connecting the extra holder to extend the battery bay by 2

If I were you, I would boost the number of AA's to 8. This will lead to 12 volts, and a fair amount of current. From my experience, stryfe motors can handle a pretty decent amount of current, but totally fry if you get higher than 16 volts running through them.

Also, I would coat the flywheels in something. What I do is wrap them tightly in electrical tape in direction that the flywheels spin. After the wrap, I use a hair dryer on the highest setting to warm up the electrical tape. It is crucial that the tape is wrapped in a way that when the flywheels spin, the seam that the tape makes is not able to be peeled back.

My stryfe shoots 50-70ft flat with 2 imr and full rewire. With that many AA you might as well jump to imr you will go through that many AA while playing.

Alright, i'll try popping the resistors off, and see how that goes
(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community )

those are inductors not resistors leave them be they help with the amperage drawn from the battery set look at bridging the diodes in the trigger area to remove the slow down while the pusher is not active instead.

another thing you can do is is rework the trigger area that is where the most restrictive part of the circuits are. The rapid strike has a pair of diodes that function as a limiter while the pusher is not active you can do the extra work and strip out most of this.

honestly http://www.blasterte...3_13607466.aspx
the falcon 130 motors look to be beastly...

Did you even see what he said? Imr's cost 14 euro's where he lives for just a pack of 2. Then you also have to add a special charger to that.

I recommended 8 AA's because they are cheap and accessible. In Addition, the current from 8 AA"s is greater than 2 Imr's, which will lead to greater performance and less damage to the motors.

Umm no alkaline can not provide more current than imr.

Alkaline can at most do 3 amps but most can only do 2.5A and they last 40 minutes tops so piss through those batteries like water and how long does it take to burn 14 euro in alkaline.

NiMh can do 5 amp discharges and last for 2.1 Ah so at 2 amp discharge you get maybe an hour.

IMR 10-60A depends on grade and size of cell most 14500 do 10A.

Now 8 AA in series is 12v the stock motors were rated for 6v we over volt them at a cost to life at a given voltage the stall current increases. It does not matter if it is an imr or if it is alkaline 12v will kill those motors just as well from either source.

http://www.amazon.de...rds=efest 14500
9.90 eur

http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore d4
charger does li-mn, NiMh, LiFE, li-ion, NiCD

or
http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore i2

Loaner strong arm, spectre, retaliator. Basically if it is over 20 in cost or overly complex to use don't loan if it is something that you care if it goes missing or gets broken dont loan. If it is a reliable stockish weapon perfect.

dont loan your custom
dont loan a diggery do
dont loan your rolex

I found this on another modding website "De-solder the left end of the yellow wire from where it is and solder it back on top of the red wire that comes in from the positive battery. This will disable the mechanism that causes the flywheels to be slow at first." -Rexar5 humanvszombies.org

is that basically a way of bypassing those diodes?

yes it just bypasses the circuit. That alone might fix the issue you are having. While in there i would also remove both thermal fuses as they bleed off some juice too. You also may want to switch to NiMH

Alright I just swapped the yellow wire over and double checked my motors, they are running super fast now. My original intention was to make the gun quieter, but seeing how powerful it is now... I kinda like the roar

another thing to do is to remove that white rubber flappy thing over the dart entrance i was getting jams with mine until i ripped that shit out.

and as for quiet the only quiet flywheel is a stopped flywheel look into motor breaking to make them stop faster then work on spin up time it should already be super short with what you have already done.

also since you got rm2 did you C-Mod them as in did you replace the stock low voltage brushes with the upgraded silver carbon brushes.

Thanks for your very detailed feedback. Luckily I had a soldering iron and already took out all the junk from the inside of the blaster. Unfortunately your ebay seller doesn't ship to Germany I,ll try to solder the battery holder in place and feed the wires through the back of the stock mount, so that I'm able to close the original battery holder again. I will also mount the new battery holder with something more durable. I don't play that often (2-4 hours a week) so the alkalines should last relatively long. In fact 4 of the 6 batteries that I'm currently using are still the ones that I put in when I bought the blaster about 4 months ago, so they should still be cheaper and if I really need to I can still swap them for IMRs.

Have a good day!

the links i gave were for amazon in germany... 9.90 euro for a pair of imr you only really need 2 and a bypass for the other 2 cells you can run 3 safely 4 will burn out the motors.

and the same charger for li-ions works with imr.

epoxy putty is very messy to use i recommend using gloves with both. It is basically play-doh mixed with the liquid epoxy it does not adhere as good as the liquid both dry hard and brittle.
The liquid leaves a thinner coat the putty is used to fill gaps both can be sanded to get the finish you want. And since you can make a big block of the putty it works well for structural joints. Both can flake or break off if you don't prep the joint right.


I once used a tube of the liquid to fix the hinges on a laptop the next time i tried the putty the liquid seemed to do a better job but i had issues keeping it where i wanted it that is why i tried the putty the next time neither as far as i know have failed yet and that was several years now... The putty ended up taking longer to hold and i dont think it was ever as secure as the liquid the liquid ended up with the laptop working like new.

For accuraccy mods you have 2 places you can change things the barrel or the darts you fire.

Darts you run into allowable vs not allowable and you have to worry about getting yours back at the end. So that leaves the barrel you can brass them and it helps but can decrease ranges...

i believe koush darts are allowed and also fix most of what causes the issues with nerf but you will probably loose alot of them.

modding the darts you can make nerf darts better by filling the tips with hot glue but this may not be allowed also reduces the range on them.

a heavier dart will fly straighter and wont be blown around by wind as much as a lighter/smaller one, but see how long you can shoot massively heavy darts at people until they get real upset




we dont use slurs here, we're PC as fuck

yep also dont get used to a 7kg spring those springers can make stock darts hit hard with the ar bored out.

I don't understand why people are doing this.

https://blasted.de/t4924/

Report back with chronograph readings, but I have a sinking suspicion you just threw away your money.

it is about surface area the higher the surface area the more contact or grip on the dart thus the more kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart.



To the op make a video to capture the sound it makes with those wheels also i would try it without roughing the surface first the smoothness might be a factor in gripping the dart so you may wish to use 1000-2000+ grit to polish the wheels to a mirror like finish for more grip...

For the record, you don't want lighter flywheels, they don't spin faster or anything. Heavier flywheels retain more rotational inertia and are better for repeated firing than a lighter wheel. A light wheel will spool up to full speed more quickly (possibly an unnoticeably small amount, assuming you've spent as much on a motor system as you have on these flywheels), but will lose more energy with each shot.

That said, it's possible that with aluminum wheels conventional wisdom for plastic wheels may not apply. It's likely that these are already more than heavy enough to not be affected by a stream of darts flying through. Either way, I wouldn't drill holes in your nice, new, one-of-a-kind flywheels unless your motors aren't up to snuff, even then I'd suggest upgrading the motors instead.

you would want as much weight to the outside ring as you can. With the overall weight being as low as possible. That said if your motors can spin them up fine i would not bother with holes if they have issues with wind up time then lighten them but right now they are probably evenly weighted any holes will change the balance.

Found some of these 14500 size batteries I hadn't seen before:
http://pages.ebay.co...5647735&alt=web

They look like a great deal, but before buying some I thought I'd ask here if anyone has had experience with them. How do they compare to LiIon batteries like IMRs or Ultrafires? I would be running these in a resistor/lock free stryfe circuit with the stock motors. I've been using ultrafires in all my stryfe mods before now, and they've worked just fine for me. These LiFePo batteries, however, look to be cheaper and they come from the US. Thanks for the help!

~Rave

not so fast

those from what i can find are likely only rated to 2C so 1.4 AMP if the 700 mAh is correct. Lifepo4 is a more durable chemistry and frequently found to be able to do up to 30C. however i will now throw back these are cheap Chinese cells i know everything i made there these days but the 700mAh is definitely exagerated it is likely closer to 450-550mAh in which case it is only good for 1.1 Amp discharge and being they are meant for solar lights i would think this is most likely the case. If these were unprotected cells and they could do 30C that is still only ~15 Amps if it is indeed 500 mAh if it actually is 700 and a bare unprotected cell and can do 30C your looking at 21 Amps.

That is also assuming these are indeed lifepo4 cells there is a story about some knock off tenergy lifepo4 exploding inside a flashlight while the owner was holding it in his mouth working on his truck. The knock offs were never found so it could never be determined definitively but it was believed they were actually li-ion. Not much was left of the flashlight body either. What set those off was believed to be thermal shock.


So i guess what im trying to tell you is don't take your life in the hands of cheap batteries... these also require a compatible charger li-ion chargers are not all compatible... and just because the seller is in the US does not mean they are not made overseas (they say made in CHINA on the side)


Efest IMR v2 Li-Mn 3.7-4.2v 9.7 Amp discharge rate safer chemistry limited medium capacity more expensive than li-ion
Ultrafire Li-Ion 3.7v-4.2v 2-3A discharge unsafe delicate chemistry Highest capacity cheapest
Lifepo4 3.3v 1a-21A typical discharge safest chemistry and most expensive lowest capacity

Imr is Lithium manganese chemistry abbreviated Li-Mn
Ultrafires are li-ion which are lithium cobalt
Lifepo4 are lithium iron phosphate

try spinning the motor it might be stuck... or burnt out another thing would be make sure all the locks are actuated...

Also kill leader... dont you need a custom Rapidstrike or stryfe/rayven for that these days...

my brother had put away his rapid strike for a couple of weeks, and now the clip lock button is stuck in the release position making it impossible to keep a clip in it. if anyone has had this problem or knows how I may be able to fix it that would be a lot of help.

try actuating it a few times or take it apart.

So I am working on a Demolisher any I already took out all the locks any sawed off the rocket launcher, but I am wondering two things, 1: what batteries should I use? 3 Trust Fires and a dummy? Or something else? 2: If I paint, should I paint the inner shell too? Sorry I'm a bit of a newbie, but I've been modding for at least 4 months now so I still got questions! Thanks.

ideally a lipo 2s or 3s with a motor replacement and full rewire. 10-400 amp discharge

less ideally 2-3 IMR 14500 or 18650 stock motor or upgraded motors with rewire 10-60 amp discharge

even less 6 AA eneloops 3-5 amp discharge

terrible trustfire 2-3 1-3 amp discharge tendency to explode or catch fire when mistreated.

non upgrade aa 4 1.5 amp discharge

Painting anywhere that is not seen or rubs plastic on plastic is not advised so the mag well and the top of the mag.

Hey, have you been out to one of our wars in Wilsonville? If not, we'll have another next month on the 18th.




I have yet to see any real evidence of this happening in our hobby. I have seen accounts of it in stupid situations, like vaporizer pens, but those people are all trying to kill themselves anyway.

yeah those vape sticks basically short the battery when they use them...

but even if they are safe enough they still only deal 1-3 amps when most nerf guns use around 7-8 amps stall unless your rocking stock motors those only draw close to 3.

Stall current draw is for a very short period, unless there is a jam. I have not worked out the math myself, but I am sure someone in the business already has. Also "most" blasters is really over selling it.

I suppose i could clarify that a bit more to most heavily modified with motor swaps. Either way anything but semi stock is going to pull more than 3 amps on those momentary spikes and those momentary spikes are bad for the batteries and it is enough that trustfires are not particularly up to the task... Will a difference be noticed probably not. But I would rather not take the chance on those li-ion venting on me...

Why hasn't anyone tried brushless motors? Hobbyking and eBay have tons of cheap outrunner brushless motors and ESCs. It looks like you could build a simple servo controller for the ESCs with a 555 timer chip and a few resistors and caps. Plus with an outrunner motor you should be able to just screw the flywheel right to the motor. Brushless motors can take much more voltage and are more durable too.
Just wondering?

they have

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeA81xYm8bg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhFn7DkRkiM

it is kinda nerdy but i wanted to do a brushless for the startup sound turn on the gun for the 4 startup beeps then the motor sounds...

Because Ultrafires are crap batteries. They have very low current, lots of voltage sag, and their specs are HIGHLY exaggerated. They are designed for flashlights, not motors.

and imr are less crap but still not ideal for anything but lights. Lipo packs are best if you need convenience and have good lights you might have better options with imr. If you have r/c and use lipo for more than just nerf then lipo might be better.

MOST battery types are dangerous if mistreated. Ultrafire/trustfires can explode if overdrawn (There are reports of this happening in stampedes). IMRs can spew fire if punctured. LiPos will spew fire if punctured and shorted. Rule of thumb when dealing with ANYTHING explosive/flammable? Take precautions, and handle it appropriately.

Fact: Gasoline is extremely explosive, but we pump GALLONS of it inside our cars and DRIVE AROUND over 70 MPH!!!

There are very few battery failures in Nerf period. And I imagine they all stem from abuse or overdrawing the battery with too much current. You see a lot more battery failures in quad copters because they ride the jagged line of max current and weight and sometimes mess up the math. Just build some cushion so you don't draw too much amperage from your battery and don't poke it with nails/jagged edges.

yep we are all driving rolling bombs (gasoline or lithium battery packs) carrying bombs (any portable device with a lipo example any cell phone or laptop or tablet) and wearing bombs on our wrists (any smartwatch)


for that matter alkaline batteries can explode too and they are filled with potassium phosphate or lye...

If you really want something that wont explode stick to potatoes and lemons...

So for the later part of the past few months I have been working on a Stryfe Falcon 130 build. I want to add some sort of braking to the motors so when I let go of the rev trigger the motors stop almost immediately. I have seen videos of finished projects of this type but no diagrams on how the circuit is set up. I know I need to run a wire from the motors to the switch but am un sure if it's off of the positive or negative wire and to what terminal on the switch (I think it's to the Normally closed terminal (also what terminal is that, my wiring loom is coming to me prebuilt from http://www.blasterte...3_13607495.aspx)). If someone could help me out in pointing me in a direction as to a diagram or better yet pictures, I'd be more than appreciated. If it helps any I plan on running this blaster off of a 3S Lipo (not sure if it makes any difference)

not really for motor braking it is connecting the positive and negative side of the motors the diode is the actual thing you want though as it serves the same purpose and is actually something your supposed to do with dc motors or inductors...


You should put a diode across the terminals of the motor this will stop them from generating power and feeding it back into the circuit as they spin down. Add the diode pointing towards the positive on both motors this is the safest method and costs very little i think 2 diodes can be had for like 10 cents...

Or you can take the jam door switch and put it as the new rev switch the second and 3rd pin 2 pins will be the on off for the rev circuit and the 1st pin connected to the negative on the battery tray is the brake...

http://www.mouser.co...fX4nEEHllp3mZcc .18 cents each you need 2

I am also wondering if you need to replace the rev switch.

you should if you want a bit more complex of a circuit you could put a relay or a dc-dc voltage and current controller it would offer a bit of adjustment for you.

I have ran 2 IMRs before, and I have never had to. The stock one works just fine with my wire setup, which is simply battery box -> rev switch -> motors

the stock switch is good for around 3 amps not much more can be drawn through it to get the very most out of it you should replace it or use a relay to have a high current and a low current side.

I use a pair of 18650 IMR in my rapidstrike a pair of 26650 would fit too and not need a tray of their own. and you can get 26650 that can do up to 30-60A with a rather high capacity.

alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...

Exotics are just fine. I just want to know are there any better ones.


Torque is the focus, not rpm!

Why do you need super high torque... The fps comes from rpm the load of the darts comes from torque. So heavier darts would be the only benefit and it might hit harder but it would not go as far and would have greater slippage on the darts.

I just want to know. Torque is for the efficiency. That doesn't mean I don't want rpm.

EDIT: The flywheels I'll use will make slippage more minor of a problem.

there is only so much you can do vs slippage i suppose the torque would help with heavier wheels too...

Wait a second... this gives me an idea! If the Zeus has 380 motors, and Xtreme Productions (home of the xtreme pro 180) makes 380 motors... You see where I'm going.

different ammo as far as i know few mods there was one that was full auto at 11v looked beastly

1. If I run a 2s 25c LiPo, will it be weaker than Ultrafires or not? (High Discharge but low voltage)
A. It will be equal to running 2 ultrafires
2. If I run a 3s 20c LiPo, is it necessary to change my rev switch into a high current micro switch?
A. Maybe the original switches are rated much lower they will eventually burn out and don't pass as much current but stock motors on 3s you can skip the switch upgrade for now you should think hard about doing it eventually.
3. If I run a 500mAh pack and I'm playing for 5 hours, do I need to bring 2 packs? (don't want to cut shell)
A. depends on motors and play style how heavy handed you are on the rev switch. From what i have found 800-1000 is the biggest that fits in a stryfe with a little bit of modding as in removing dividers and support ribs on the battery door
4. Can anybody give me a link for tutorials on how to charge LiPos using a smart charger? (maybe an IMAX B6 Balance Charger?)
A. Google youtube then "how to use imax b6. first result
5. My LiPo has a JST discharge plug and a JST-XH balance plug, if I want to plug both into my Stryfe or my balance charger, what terminals should I use for the Stryfe and the charger? (Male/Female)
A. The stryfe wont have anything you will need to install something to plug into the balance port and the discharge the jst is what you will plug into the stryfe you will need something like this
6.Do stock motors spin fast on a 2s LiPo? (Related to Question 1)
A. I find they do fine on 2 IMR which would be like a 2s 700mAH 10c
7. How do I solder a Female JST plug to my wire to plug LiPos in? (if you have a link, it's fine)
http://www.amazon.co... plug connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqV2xU1fee8
it should be pretty self explanatory you run the two wires into the guts of the stryfe and where the 2 wires connect to the battery tray you connect the jst

google and search will both give you numerous how to on modding the stryfe most commonly a rewire mod first result on google search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4AR9fvwlYw ONLY thing i have to say about the video is those "resistors" are not resistors they are Transistors they drop voltage and increase amperage but are not needed.

odd how all of your questions are not yes or no...

another useful bit of knowledge is here is a listing of max acceptable amperage for a given wire size we would be looking at both chassis is more short bursts and what we would use primarily but for longer use the transmission is important too as at a given amperage the wire will heat up and eventually melt

AWG max Amp chassis  max Amp power transmission
10	55	      15
11	47	      12	
12	41	       9.3	
13	35	       7.4	
14	32	       5.9	
15	28	       4.7	
16	22	       3.7	
17	19	       2.9	
18	16	       2.3	
19	14	       1.8	
20	11	       1.5

was saying that for the purposes of you likely have hundreds of darts where as just getting into the zeus you would only have the ammo it came with if you were to pick this up for modding a fundamental expense rises across the board new ammo stock pile new mag stock pile if your purposes are for a nerf war with shock and awe factor i dont see it being all that useful that said i can see nerf phasing out darts for this. engineering can only take the darts so far.