my brother had put away his rapid strike for a couple of weeks, and now the clip lock button is stuck in the release position making it impossible to keep a clip in it. if anyone has had this problem or knows how I may be able to fix it that would be a lot of help.

try actuating it a few times or take it apart.

Alright, i'll try popping the resistors off, and see how that goes
(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community )

those are inductors not resistors leave them be they help with the amperage drawn from the battery set look at bridging the diodes in the trigger area to remove the slow down while the pusher is not active instead.

another thing you can do is is rework the trigger area that is where the most restrictive part of the circuits are. The rapid strike has a pair of diodes that function as a limiter while the pusher is not active you can do the extra work and strip out most of this.

honestly http://www.blasterte...3_13607466.aspx
the falcon 130 motors look to be beastly...

I found this on another modding website "De-solder the left end of the yellow wire from where it is and solder it back on top of the red wire that comes in from the positive battery. This will disable the mechanism that causes the flywheels to be slow at first." -Rexar5 humanvszombies.org

is that basically a way of bypassing those diodes?

yes it just bypasses the circuit. That alone might fix the issue you are having. While in there i would also remove both thermal fuses as they bleed off some juice too. You also may want to switch to NiMH

Alright I just swapped the yellow wire over and double checked my motors, they are running super fast now. My original intention was to make the gun quieter, but seeing how powerful it is now... I kinda like the roar

another thing to do is to remove that white rubber flappy thing over the dart entrance i was getting jams with mine until i ripped that shit out.

and as for quiet the only quiet flywheel is a stopped flywheel look into motor breaking to make them stop faster then work on spin up time it should already be super short with what you have already done.

also since you got rm2 did you C-Mod them as in did you replace the stock low voltage brushes with the upgraded silver carbon brushes.

To me it seems like they are not going far enough over all like mine blasts a spray of foam out much further than yours did it seemed some went sideways in the barrel and lost energy really quick.

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.

I use a pair of 18650 IMR in my rapidstrike a pair of 26650 would fit too and not need a tray of their own. and you can get 26650 that can do up to 30-60A with a rather high capacity.

alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...

the difference in the flywheel XD vs just the elite was a new flywheel cage with the wheels a few mm closer together to give them a better grip on the dart.

Nevermind nerf trolls customers...

you could using the 1.2 v rechargeable go with a motor swap race motors like the plasma dash or hyper dash are meant to run at those voltages rather than the over volt the imr give...

if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...

I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.

but that simply is not true it will reduce the number of rechargeable for other devices that are used in your household that would make better use of the low amperage low voltage batteries... Also NiMH go bad just like every other chemistry you will burn them out quicker than the devices currently using them.

there is no getting around the fact that NiMH AA batteries are not the optimal cell for this application Li-MN lasts longer preforms better and is over all better served in this case and lipo is even better...

if you absolutely must use the 1.2v NiMH batteries then i recommend a motor swap rather than strapping more cells onto your rig...

plasma dash or mach dash they are meant to run off 3-4.5v that would be the better option vs strapping a battery holder and cutting the end plate in half in the gun and connecting the extra holder to extend the battery bay by 2

I just want to know. Torque is for the efficiency. That doesn't mean I don't want rpm.

EDIT: The flywheels I'll use will make slippage more minor of a problem.

there is only so much you can do vs slippage i suppose the torque would help with heavier wheels too...

Wait a second... this gives me an idea! If the Zeus has 380 motors, and Xtreme Productions (home of the xtreme pro 180) makes 380 motors... You see where I'm going.

different ammo as far as i know few mods there was one that was full auto at 11v looked beastly

was saying that for the purposes of you likely have hundreds of darts where as just getting into the zeus you would only have the ammo it came with if you were to pick this up for modding a fundamental expense rises across the board new ammo stock pile new mag stock pile if your purposes are for a nerf war with shock and awe factor i dont see it being all that useful that said i can see nerf phasing out darts for this. engineering can only take the darts so far.

Exotics are just fine. I just want to know are there any better ones.


Torque is the focus, not rpm!

Why do you need super high torque... The fps comes from rpm the load of the darts comes from torque. So heavier darts would be the only benefit and it might hit harder but it would not go as far and would have greater slippage on the darts.

Can the Catch move freely? Also, Is the prime-length correct and and is is pushing the plunger all the way back to meet the catch?

I have the #1 and #2 kit on my retaliator did you use the supplied spring for the catch or the old spring. The supplied spring is of a higher strength than the old spring. I also suggest going with the 5kg spring vs the 7kg spring that comes with the 3rd stage kit. The 7kg does not improve it that much over the 5kg just makes it much much harder to prime.

IIRC from a Drac video, the 7kg spring is required to drive the stage 3 extended barrel (it induces too much barrel drag otherwise).

yes but it also makes the blaster alot harder to prime.

Also about that extended barrel it sucks the attachment point it has is a slight upgrade but the barrel itself sucks if memory serves omw went back and tweaked it to be bigger around so it caused less drag... I felt this was a shame as i liked the look of the stage 3 kit but when i found out the drawbacks and that the 7kg spring + the barrel ended up with worse ranges and speeds than stage 1 and 2 i decided not to bother with stage 3... And guess what i don't have any issues with my retaliator lockup all locks removed and it works perfectly it is gathering dust as i have moved onto a stryfe and rapid strike but my advise to solve the lock up issues is unscrew the barrel and use the 5kg spring after making sure the trigger and catch springs are the upgraded ones and did not slip out of place...

If you absolutely need to use the extended barrel i suggest brassing it make sure you get big enough brass. To widen the barrel a dowel with a piece of sand paper wrapped around it then chucked in a drill will make short work of opening it up then push a brass 7/16 size tube down it if it ends up too loose you can glue it but it should fit so snugly it wont need anything. It will be wider and it should solve the issue with the barrel reducing the distance and speed.

The only thing i can think of is your going to have to trial and error with a universal tv remote there will be 2 codes one to move the launch angle one to launch a disc. It is somewhat complicated but i would try a tv remote see if any buttons or combo of buttons triggers anything.

Other options involve much more complicated methods involving making a new control board with an arduino. It would not be overly complicated to control a 3 position servo a variable speed motor and the launch solenoid. It is beyond my skill but it would be possible.

A easier method might be to buy a second one with a remote they are 65-130 on ebay or find someone with the remote willing to let you record the pulses from it you could then program a select few remotes perhaps even a tv be gone diy type unit you would just need to use the 2 codes from the actual remote instead of the on/off db they flash on the diy chips.


http://www.instructa...e-with-Arduino/

Yea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.

he may wish to go with a 6 battery tray 12v will probably trip the thermistor... 9v will give it some punch not burn the motors as fast but using alkaline or NiMH will have a shorter run time than Lipo or li-mn

i run with 2 IMR 18650 if i was doing it over i would probably still go that route. But 26650 would fit in the tray too you just need to put a 1 inch spacer on the batteries. The charger is not that special a nitecore d4 and it will charge any li-ion and NiMH and NiCd and LiFePSO4

Do not use a 9V battery. It cannot supply as much amperage or last long enough to be efficient. Use instead the AA battery tray as previously suggested.



This is what you find in most 9v batteries, not good. A 9v is perfectly adequate for purposes such as running LEDs, but NOT for providing the power that blaster motors need to function.

hypothetically if it was only the pusher it would be fine but yes drop any notion of using a 9v. If you put a 6AA snap box in though you can toss 6 NiMH in and those are good for around 5 Amps unless you pick up a pack those can be good for much much more. A single 9 volt will make the motors sound unruly but they will bog and jam easier if you stick 2 26650 in the stock tray and put some sort of spacer in it should only need 1 inch mod done.

http://www.amazon.co...p_prd_ttl_sol_7

just need something just wide enough to fill in on either end it would be about 1 inch the gun itself can be left unmodded...

charge it

This motor:
http://www.tamiyausa...h-3-motor-15477

3-4 ultrafires is too much voltage and not enough current and will shorten the life of the motor. Run it on 1s IMR / Lipo, or a 3 or 4s NMH pack.

Also, unless someone posts chronograph numbers after coating the flywheels, I wouldn't mess with it at all. Anything you put on them will increase their weight which will increase the time it takes to spin up the motors. It will also decrease battery life from the increased load and will increase the amount of heat being generated in the motor which will shorten the life of the motor.

the op could run 3 in parallel to increase the amperage and capacity that could be pulled from the cells.

Be careful about amazon batteries particularly ones with fire in the name a lot of fakes.

On the cheap end i would do a single imr 18650 or 14500 if you want to fit a pair of them in the original battery compartment with some rewiring to put them in parallel or a li-po pack for a rc rated at 4.2v. The imr is good for 25-35 amps depending on the brand i would recommend efest or aw.

I would also look at PWM regulation since the motors are only rated for 2.4v going too much higher than that will burn them quicker the circuit is relatively simple and can be made small enough to fit in the gun or even the battery compartment depending what battery and where you put it.

If you dont want to put that much work into figuring out the power situation. 4 eneloops in the stock bay would power the motors with a slight over-volt would not provide the amps for stall though.

The main thing I am curious about is that the black things connected to the motors are not resistors they are inductors designed to drop voltage and increase current I don't pretend to know everything but would not having them in place help with current draw as the AA it is meant to run on would not provide the current to drive the stock motors well enough on their own.

For Ni-MH energizer claims 4c eneloops say 1c duracell claims 2c.

do those brushless fan motors have 2-wires or 3-wires, if they have three then there true brushless motors and requires a brushless specific speed controller

Pc fans are true brushless but they dont have to have 3 wires. They use hall effect sensors to determine direction rather than comutators. Generally it is positive (red) ground (black) and rpm sensing (yellow) Now 4 wire pwm setups are getting more common the 3 wires remain the same. Though red 12v input black ground and yellow blue or green rpm sensing the 4th is used to adjust speed. Previous to this they were slowed by a pot dropping the voltage to the stall level around 5v-7v. An 80mm or 92mm or 120mm fan would have a similar sized hub to a flywheel dropping the other wires and keeping the red and black tossing them into a blaster would require modification of the flywheel cage cutting out the 130 size sleeve since without modding the speed controller you cant reverse the direction and to get access to the controller you must remove the hub.

I have been thinking about how to do it and i am almost positive ill be making my own nerf gun when i get around to making the one based off pc fans i will need to see how slow they speed up and how the motor behaves without the fins on it though. It has been brought up to me that the torque and spin up time might not be good.

I never go near any batteries with the word fire in the name. I ended up ordering this one. Since its only 3.7V I will try running the motors without limiting the voltage, if hear, smell, see anything wrong then I'll install something to limit it down to a lower point.

I used a pair of laptop batteries in mine I had already reclaimed the 6 18650 they held a charge at 4.1v for 3 months before I did anything with them I put them in a pair of protected battery holders

Why would you put a 3.7V battery in a gun designed for 6V? I don't think that motor will work. Does this gun need a double shaft like that? I am putting a 7.4V Lipo in mine today. We will see if I fry anything.

The stock motors are rated to 6v and do fine on 7.4v-8.4v i have a pair of IMR running mine the IMR say they can do 20A continuous the stock motors should not have anywhere near that stall current.

If you do like the op is doing with his he is putting a pair of 130 size race motors in his that are rated to 3v so 3.7v battery pack or even a pair of IMR in parallel would do. Putting double the voltage on those race motors would likely burn them out very quickly.

I want to do a brushless motor mod and i have an idea for cheap durable brushless motors. Computer fans they are 7-12v brushless ball bearing sleeve and several others are available and spin 600-4800 rpm all i would need to do is free them from the frame and cut off the fins and smooth out the hub would take 20 min with a belt sander or dremel. If i end up doing it ill post a write up on it my main concern is there is not an easy way of reversing the rotation on pc fans so i would have to mount them with one flipped over.

I have recently modified some of my blasters, the mods include AR and lock removal and I was wondering if it is a good idea to put felt pads on the plunger head in order to make the blaster a bit quieter and safer to dry fire. if any one has any info on this topic what so ever please reply. thank you.

yes it is somewhat common Self sticking craft foam is typical it does help plunger life and makes it a bit quieter... If you filled the plunger head with hot glue first some dead space would be removed too.

might be easier with a rapid strike

I have ran 2 IMRs before, and I have never had to. The stock one works just fine with my wire setup, which is simply battery box -> rev switch -> motors

the stock switch is good for around 3 amps not much more can be drawn through it to get the very most out of it you should replace it or use a relay to have a high current and a low current side.

I am also wondering if you need to replace the rev switch.

you should if you want a bit more complex of a circuit you could put a relay or a dc-dc voltage and current controller it would offer a bit of adjustment for you.

Found some of these 14500 size batteries I hadn't seen before:
http://pages.ebay.co...5647735&alt=web

They look like a great deal, but before buying some I thought I'd ask here if anyone has had experience with them. How do they compare to LiIon batteries like IMRs or Ultrafires? I would be running these in a resistor/lock free stryfe circuit with the stock motors. I've been using ultrafires in all my stryfe mods before now, and they've worked just fine for me. These LiFePo batteries, however, look to be cheaper and they come from the US. Thanks for the help!

~Rave

not so fast

those from what i can find are likely only rated to 2C so 1.4 AMP if the 700 mAh is correct. Lifepo4 is a more durable chemistry and frequently found to be able to do up to 30C. however i will now throw back these are cheap Chinese cells i know everything i made there these days but the 700mAh is definitely exagerated it is likely closer to 450-550mAh in which case it is only good for 1.1 Amp discharge and being they are meant for solar lights i would think this is most likely the case. If these were unprotected cells and they could do 30C that is still only ~15 Amps if it is indeed 500 mAh if it actually is 700 and a bare unprotected cell and can do 30C your looking at 21 Amps.

That is also assuming these are indeed lifepo4 cells there is a story about some knock off tenergy lifepo4 exploding inside a flashlight while the owner was holding it in his mouth working on his truck. The knock offs were never found so it could never be determined definitively but it was believed they were actually li-ion. Not much was left of the flashlight body either. What set those off was believed to be thermal shock.


So i guess what im trying to tell you is don't take your life in the hands of cheap batteries... these also require a compatible charger li-ion chargers are not all compatible... and just because the seller is in the US does not mean they are not made overseas (they say made in CHINA on the side)


Efest IMR v2 Li-Mn 3.7-4.2v 9.7 Amp discharge rate safer chemistry limited medium capacity more expensive than li-ion
Ultrafire Li-Ion 3.7v-4.2v 2-3A discharge unsafe delicate chemistry Highest capacity cheapest
Lifepo4 3.3v 1a-21A typical discharge safest chemistry and most expensive lowest capacity

Imr is Lithium manganese chemistry abbreviated Li-Mn
Ultrafires are li-ion which are lithium cobalt
Lifepo4 are lithium iron phosphate

Alright. I kind of wanted to use the li-ion because i was going to have a setup where when you have the gun normal, 9v. when you attach the overvolt stock (a demolisher stock with another 9v), it makes it 18v.

That's not hard to do with lipo either but the reason people can go to 18v on 9v batteries is the low current they can provide. The li-ion ones you found should be better than 9v alkaline or 9v NiMH pp3 packages but still not as good as IMR batteries. You will burn a motor on a lipo @ 18v vs running 2 9v in series. You will probably find running at 7.4 or 11.1v will out perform 18v with 9v. This gun has stryfe motors and they will burn over 14v on a lipo they hit good ranges with a 7.4-11.1v most people find stryfes hitting 100+fps on 7.4 lipos and above 12 they melt darts...

Lipo that 9v is junk and dangerous it will not have very good current nor will it charge in typical 9v chargers safely no protection and i don't even know of a charger that does 9v li-ion batteries with a margin of safety.

You will need to buy a charger that supports li ion 9v they are around 25-50 as well and from the reviews they don't last very long

I was going to put in some mabuchi fk180sh's in the gun then overvolt it but now I am wondering not sure. Would this outperform a solarbotics stryfe if it were in a demolisher? : http://www.banggood....kXdZhoC_pvw_wcB

the demolisher is more or less a stryfe with a built in missile launcher i have seen mod videos on it and the seal in the missile launcher sucks i also wonder that if one were to remove the grate on the launcher tube if a elite dart would fit down it to give a single shot air launch.

With the 180s you will need to cut holes in the shell to allow the back sides of the motors to stick out. If you don't want to do this you could get some 130 can race motors the hyper dash 2 but you would be going to 4.2v for them or you could get a pair of brushless motors and a controller you will need to put an on off switch in then.

Honestly the stock stryfe motors do good with a proper power source they could be better they could be alot worse...

I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.

Actually in my research I found the current lithium primary could provide was vastly inferior. While better than both alkaline and NiMH a lithium primary is still worse than a li-ion 14500 cell. Energizer's data sheet claims 3A continuous with 5A pulse 2 seconds at 5A 8 seconds off. A quality cell not *fire brand should do at least 3A continuous with 6th bursts and be rechargeable.

However the capacity of a lithium primary is greater than a li-ion (trustfire) but lithium primary are a one and done situation. And at 10 dollars per 4 pack you might as well invest in a lipo pack or imr rechargeables. (Capacity of energizer lithium tests out at 2480 mAh @ 3A)

Li-ion- generally quality cells can do 3A- 5A continuous
Li-mn/imr do about 10A continuous.
Lipo packs do 10 - 100A continuous dependant on features of the pack c rating * capacity =amperage

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.

also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.

With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo

Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.

the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.

the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.

A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.

Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...

Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can

the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.

we need better details than it didn't fire...

such as it would jam up frequently or it had poor distances

if it is jamming up it is likely the dart lock in which case open it pull out the orange spring loaded thing it serves only one purpose to keep the trigger from being pulled without a dart pushing it up.

if it is just getting poor distances that is somewhat normal do a power supply mod and perhaps rewire that will fix that.

if the motors are either not working going to need to figure out why and while your at it either swap them for ones that work or rewire it and fix the break and while your at it remove the locks...

Depending on the age i would say a stryfe with NiMH batteries fully stock that should be good for age 4+ give them 6 round or 12 round clips as they grow old enough they can grow into the 18 rounders. The one thing i might do is remove the dart jammer...

Younger than that i would say a jolt small enough for them easy enough to prime it front loads. The fire strike might be a bit difficult for some younger kids and prone to breaking the priming handle...

RPM doesn't directly influence fps, per say. It's the speed of the edge of the flywheel. Since your flywheels are connected by a belt, the edge speed is the same on both. This has no advantage over simply feeding the dart in the larger wheels in the back, and has the added disadvantage of extra friction in the system.

not to mention the added mass will reduce the run time significantly that said you would need to maintain tension on the belts or bands making this blaster even heavier this would be a good thing for if we needed a high torque motor in this type of setup but we don't torque equates to how much mass can be tossed out rpm gives you how fast it will be going relative to how much kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart as in how much the dart slips on the flywheels as it moves through...

The faster the flywheels are spinning the faster the dart will end up how much momentum the dart picks up is dependent on the grip and slippage. Torque is a matter of how much the wheels will slow down when they are hit with the load of the dart...

this is all gear ratio the smaller gear in the front would be more rotations for every one rotation of the torquey slower motors in the rear example a 3 to 1 gear ratio as in for every one rotation of the big wheel equals 3 rotations of the smaller wheel this also adds speed to the small wheel the small wheel will spin 3 times faster than the big wheel. idea is not bad but makes for a clunky heavy gun and honestly i would just stick with current designs they are simpler and easier to work with than figuring this out and then keeping your fingers out of the danger zone...

You could design it to be driven by 1 motor but there will be another gear involved to get them spinning the right way.