how does it push the balls forward

Depending on the age i would say a stryfe with NiMH batteries fully stock that should be good for age 4+ give them 6 round or 12 round clips as they grow old enough they can grow into the 18 rounders. The one thing i might do is remove the dart jammer...

Younger than that i would say a jolt small enough for them easy enough to prime it front loads. The fire strike might be a bit difficult for some younger kids and prone to breaking the priming handle...

Can the Catch move freely? Also, Is the prime-length correct and and is is pushing the plunger all the way back to meet the catch?

I have the #1 and #2 kit on my retaliator did you use the supplied spring for the catch or the old spring. The supplied spring is of a higher strength than the old spring. I also suggest going with the 5kg spring vs the 7kg spring that comes with the 3rd stage kit. The 7kg does not improve it that much over the 5kg just makes it much much harder to prime.

IIRC from a Drac video, the 7kg spring is required to drive the stage 3 extended barrel (it induces too much barrel drag otherwise).

yes but it also makes the blaster alot harder to prime.

Also about that extended barrel it sucks the attachment point it has is a slight upgrade but the barrel itself sucks if memory serves omw went back and tweaked it to be bigger around so it caused less drag... I felt this was a shame as i liked the look of the stage 3 kit but when i found out the drawbacks and that the 7kg spring + the barrel ended up with worse ranges and speeds than stage 1 and 2 i decided not to bother with stage 3... And guess what i don't have any issues with my retaliator lockup all locks removed and it works perfectly it is gathering dust as i have moved onto a stryfe and rapid strike but my advise to solve the lock up issues is unscrew the barrel and use the 5kg spring after making sure the trigger and catch springs are the upgraded ones and did not slip out of place...

If you absolutely need to use the extended barrel i suggest brassing it make sure you get big enough brass. To widen the barrel a dowel with a piece of sand paper wrapped around it then chucked in a drill will make short work of opening it up then push a brass 7/16 size tube down it if it ends up too loose you can glue it but it should fit so snugly it wont need anything. It will be wider and it should solve the issue with the barrel reducing the distance and speed.

Hello! I'm brand new to this wonderful world of Nerf and I just finished modding my first Stryfe to take out all of he locks and upgrade the junk wire. At first, all was well, but I noticed after a short time that my gun was jamming... a lot. It seems that the springs in the 18 dart N-Strike Elite magazines are a known issue and I seem to have some really bad ones. Even just a few hours loaded and they're not springing back to lift the next dart into place. I was using fresh darts and they had been loaded maybe an hour or two in advance of the game. Most of my jamming started in the early afternoon/evening when they had been loaded for about 6-8 hours.

My question is in two parts:

1. Is there a way to modify this spring to be more "springy" to stop this from happening again?

or

2. Is there a better brand of knock-off magazines that doesn't have this issue? I've been looking at the Taobao or Blasterparts banana magazines. Is one of these more reliable? I don't really want to run stock Nerf 12's, but if that's the best answer - let me know.

Thank you!

as far as i know there is no replacements or alternates for standard darts only stefans. you can try using some talc on the mag as the issue is the rubber part catching on the smooth plastic.

Since you can typically squeeze 19-20 darts in an 18 round mag, try moving the bottom of the spring up with a small spacer to add some pre-compression.

that is what causes the issue if you stick only 17 or 15 in the clips have less issue. Also make sure you get them loaded in the middle so they don't touch the front or back of the clip banging the back side of the clip to keep the tacky rubber from touching the front has helped prevent jams in mine. The only other way to fix this that I can think of is to lightly sand inside the front and back of the clip so it is textured rather than smooth so the darts don't get traction on the plastic.


http://black-tactica...azine-v2-p-3343 these are the only alternative i know of.

that is going to depend. If he uses it stock with regular batteries there is no reason for the thermistor it just adds a little bit of resistance to the circuit. The inductors also drop the voltage a bit too but raise the amperage.

But the bottom line is unless he does a full rewire with either lipo or IMR there will be no noticeable change. And really the biggest change will be with new motors too. There is a metal flywheel cage with upgraded flywheels out there that just looks sweet some neoprene washers on the mounting posts is all i would do in addition...

Yea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.

he may wish to go with a 6 battery tray 12v will probably trip the thermistor... 9v will give it some punch not burn the motors as fast but using alkaline or NiMH will have a shorter run time than Lipo or li-mn

i run with 2 IMR 18650 if i was doing it over i would probably still go that route. But 26650 would fit in the tray too you just need to put a 1 inch spacer on the batteries. The charger is not that special a nitecore d4 and it will charge any li-ion and NiMH and NiCd and LiFePSO4

Noise is normal for flywheels

The only things i did with my stryfe is a rewire going from 22 gauge to 18 gauge solid core i put a battery gauge using the jam door as a off on switch for it open the gauge is on closed gauge is off greased up the trigger mech removed all the locks. Then put 2 IMR in for 8.4v with a long dummy i made using wood glue paper and more solid core wire. i can use my AA sized dummy to do 3 imr or all 4...

The stock motors shoot happily on 2 IMR 3 they get a bit angry and noisier but hit a bit harder on 4 they scream and stink and will let the smoke out if held too long.

my tray is more or less stock

I use Efest IMR 14500 cells get the v2 they are good for about 10A of current if you do go for better motors that can draw more then go for the Lipo mod.

But my stryfe does around 80-90 FPS and my darts are semi accurate to 100 ft on 2 IMR i carry a spare 2 for if i need to swap but i have yet to do so. The batteries are like 13-20 bucks on amazon for 2-4 and a charger is 20.

First stop if your unwilling/unable to do it right don't do it at all.

Second the energizer charger is made for NiMH/NiCd 1.2v cells only you will either just ruin your 3.7v cells or make them live up to the fire part of the name.

Those L91 are not rechargeable if you remember the price you paid you will get 2-3 hours use out of them and then need to toss another pair in and repeat i dont know about where you live but those suckers are not cheap 10 bucks for 4 of them vs rechargeable...

The batteries you want are one of these Lipo 7.4 v if you go back to the motors the stryfe came with
if you stick with the hyper dash2
universal charger will charge any and all safely

If you do not want to mod the box to fit that battery in it you may use these stick with a good brand anything with fire in the name is a no no use 3 dummy for hyper dash or 2 or 1 dummy with stock motors.

Now onto the mistakes with the motors.

In parallel motors can suck more current they require the same voltage though the smell you are getting is your brushes burning. the hyper dash 2 motors like you yourself have posted are rated to 3v however they can suck 3-6A of current each so you need around 12A available minimally to be safe excess draw is going to cause heating of the cells and potential for discharge of fire. 15-20A would be preferred. To get the proper amps you have 2 options parallel packs (introduces balance issues and potential fire risks) or better cells. Now to continue the use of the hyper dash 2 you would need 1 3.7v battery even then it is going to over volt it a single LiFePSO4 would be closer at 3.3v but you already worked them at 8.4v 3.7 will be a vacation for them.

For the best performance you will want to go back to the old stock motors and toss 2 IMR in or the 7.4v lipo i linked.

There are hundreds of threads on many different sites including this one on why not to use batteries with fire in the name yet people still try doing so and then they ask why did my house burn down.

You can also go for a more complicated build they make dc-dc converter boards that handle decent amperage. Using one of those you can use whatever power supply you wish just dial it down to what the motors can handle.

Do not use a 9V battery. It cannot supply as much amperage or last long enough to be efficient. Use instead the AA battery tray as previously suggested.



This is what you find in most 9v batteries, not good. A 9v is perfectly adequate for purposes such as running LEDs, but NOT for providing the power that blaster motors need to function.

hypothetically if it was only the pusher it would be fine but yes drop any notion of using a 9v. If you put a 6AA snap box in though you can toss 6 NiMH in and those are good for around 5 Amps unless you pick up a pack those can be good for much much more. A single 9 volt will make the motors sound unruly but they will bog and jam easier if you stick 2 26650 in the stock tray and put some sort of spacer in it should only need 1 inch mod done.

http://www.amazon.co...p_prd_ttl_sol_7

just need something just wide enough to fill in on either end it would be about 1 inch the gun itself can be left unmodded...

charge it

my friend got one of the storm trooper ones for 31 dollars at our local walmart...

To me it seems like they are not going far enough over all like mine blasts a spray of foam out much further than yours did it seemed some went sideways in the barrel and lost energy really quick.

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.

The tools needed are not anything special...


zeus blaster @ $50 each
the clear tube is gonna be more expensive and not available to me it is about 24 per 6 ft section it would take about 4.5ft per blaster
4 90* elbows per blaster 4 dollars
1 t section 1 dollar
1 cap for t section 1 dollar
$5 the fan https://www.sparkfun.../products/11270
from there the full auto mod is free
the rewire and lipo 15 dollars in materials

So each blaster is about 102 in materials

the labor is not that hard but... time consuming i would say about an hour per kinda unfair to ask this to be done at cost.

tools needed:
screwdriver
soldering iron
needle nose pliers
saw or dremmel
glue

The overall mods are not super difficult your other thread where you want a bank of these on a mounted platform is more involved. The hopper and extended mag is not complicated enough to need a write-up it is just going to take the longest the first time as you get the measurements down after the first one you can pre-cut all the pipe and slap them together. The bigger issue is you need to make a 3d printed hopper and the plan is not published for it yet. Your other option is to jank it out and cut up however many paintball hoppers to get it sized right. You might find something in automotive in the form of a funnel with a lid.


To do this mod from what i see the most difficult part is to rewire the blaster your going to gut the stock wire and put a connector up in the battery area or mod the battery area to use IMR batteries but since there is more to it we will go with a 3s lipo for about 12v stock motors should work fine after you clean up the wires.

First cut all the old wires out they wont be needed you will need a spool of 18 or 16 AWG i recommend stranded and in a soft silicon insulation rather than harder pvc they are about 6-10 Bucks for 6ft of black and red wire.
The wiring will go as follows:

red from battery to switch rev switch likely the center post the other posts one is for open position being closed the other likely the used one is for push to close at least most of the nerf switches are like this.
then red from other side of rev switch to the motors and fan
black from battery to motors and fan


The blower on the top of the hopper is to push the balls through the system it needs to be able to push air out the barrel hopper needs a close to air tight cap to build positive pressure behind the balls. To do a full auto mod a part needs to be removed and a small bit needs to be cut this can be done with a pair of wire clippers or even a sharp hobby knife or the dremel.

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.

 

My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.

 

14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.

 

A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.

 

Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

im a bit late on my reply but...

 

when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.