Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.

the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.

the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.

A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.

Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...

Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can

the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.

also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.

With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo

you could put straws in them to reinforce the dart as a whole i did that to mine and they still work in ones with pegs. Though personally i rip the ar and peg out of every gun i have... I straw my darts using loctite go2glue it drys rubbery and flexable and clear i have found i can increase the weight a bit by putting a bit of extra glue in the tip of the straw and all issues with them are solved by cutting them 2mm shorter than the end of the dart and pushing it all the way down in. This works great in my stryfe and rapidstrike and they work fine out of my modded jolt and retaliator... I imagine the straw would do 2 things for you one increase the psi a dart can handle and two make the dart more rigid to keep from jamming by folding over...

The straws i used were 1$ from walmart for like 50-100 one straw does 3 darts...

I think rubber cement would be your best bet. I've used it to reattach heads with some success. Not particularly lightweight, but it's flexible and adheres to the foam to some degree.

As far as prevention, looser barrels will help stop powerful blasters from destroying darts. Depending on a billion other variables, this may reduce your muzzle velocity, but elite streamlines don't fly straight at high speeds anyways so your effective range won't be hurt too much. I don't recommend shoving straws in all of your darts because it takes time that I wouldn't want to spend on darts that I already paid 25c for. And I don't recommend homemade darts because I read the first post.

Actually it goes really fast once you get it down. Also you can make homemade darts with dart peg holes. And you suggest they put looser barrels on blasters when it sounded like they dont use modded blasters. If they used modded blasters they could remove the dart pegs.

Be careful about amazon batteries particularly ones with fire in the name a lot of fakes.

On the cheap end i would do a single imr 18650 or 14500 if you want to fit a pair of them in the original battery compartment with some rewiring to put them in parallel or a li-po pack for a rc rated at 4.2v. The imr is good for 25-35 amps depending on the brand i would recommend efest or aw.

I would also look at PWM regulation since the motors are only rated for 2.4v going too much higher than that will burn them quicker the circuit is relatively simple and can be made small enough to fit in the gun or even the battery compartment depending what battery and where you put it.

If you dont want to put that much work into figuring out the power situation. 4 eneloops in the stock bay would power the motors with a slight over-volt would not provide the amps for stall though.

The main thing I am curious about is that the black things connected to the motors are not resistors they are inductors designed to drop voltage and increase current I don't pretend to know everything but would not having them in place help with current draw as the AA it is meant to run on would not provide the current to drive the stock motors well enough on their own.

For Ni-MH energizer claims 4c eneloops say 1c duracell claims 2c.

I think I should have been more clear. I know the why and how of the situation, and I'm trying to filter out the answers that involve using stefans or straws.

The answer I was hoping for was to know what kind of glue I can use. An ideal answer would be some sort of cheap and light elastic glue that is malleable upon application, and dries to form a seal without being brittle. And is also lightweight. Can anyone think of such a material?

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/go2.shtml#go2-glue
i told you the glue i used it is light and rubbery but does not stay adhered to the foam super well it feels like the stuff they used to put the tips on in the first place it would work. That said you need to take a preventative approach rather than repair after the fact. Nothing you can do will be as good as a fresh dart.


What i would probably do is pull all of the blown out darts and use foam backer rod to make new foam ends using the genuine tips. there is instructions for making the peg holes too. Or the one you pictured you could cut and glue the tip to the half that is left.

I am curious how you get nerf guns with dart pegs still in them that can blow out the darts like this are you guys pulling the ar and then tossing heavy springs in them and then to meet some odd rule you leave the dart pegs? I have the stage 1 and 2 OMW kit in my retaliator it does not blow out my darts like this my friend has a strong arm stock that has not done this and i have a jolt i modded that has not done this my rapid strike and stryfe obviously would not do this... honestly the damage looks more like it got pinched in a drum or mag and physically ripped. The straws in the bodys will still help with feeding too.

do those brushless fan motors have 2-wires or 3-wires, if they have three then there true brushless motors and requires a brushless specific speed controller

Pc fans are true brushless but they dont have to have 3 wires. They use hall effect sensors to determine direction rather than comutators. Generally it is positive (red) ground (black) and rpm sensing (yellow) Now 4 wire pwm setups are getting more common the 3 wires remain the same. Though red 12v input black ground and yellow blue or green rpm sensing the 4th is used to adjust speed. Previous to this they were slowed by a pot dropping the voltage to the stall level around 5v-7v. An 80mm or 92mm or 120mm fan would have a similar sized hub to a flywheel dropping the other wires and keeping the red and black tossing them into a blaster would require modification of the flywheel cage cutting out the 130 size sleeve since without modding the speed controller you cant reverse the direction and to get access to the controller you must remove the hub.

I have been thinking about how to do it and i am almost positive ill be making my own nerf gun when i get around to making the one based off pc fans i will need to see how slow they speed up and how the motor behaves without the fins on it though. It has been brought up to me that the torque and spin up time might not be good.

I never go near any batteries with the word fire in the name. I ended up ordering this one. Since its only 3.7V I will try running the motors without limiting the voltage, if hear, smell, see anything wrong then I'll install something to limit it down to a lower point.

I used a pair of laptop batteries in mine I had already reclaimed the 6 18650 they held a charge at 4.1v for 3 months before I did anything with them I put them in a pair of protected battery holders

Why would you put a 3.7V battery in a gun designed for 6V? I don't think that motor will work. Does this gun need a double shaft like that? I am putting a 7.4V Lipo in mine today. We will see if I fry anything.

The stock motors are rated to 6v and do fine on 7.4v-8.4v i have a pair of IMR running mine the IMR say they can do 20A continuous the stock motors should not have anywhere near that stall current.

If you do like the op is doing with his he is putting a pair of 130 size race motors in his that are rated to 3v so 3.7v battery pack or even a pair of IMR in parallel would do. Putting double the voltage on those race motors would likely burn them out very quickly.

I want to do a brushless motor mod and i have an idea for cheap durable brushless motors. Computer fans they are 7-12v brushless ball bearing sleeve and several others are available and spin 600-4800 rpm all i would need to do is free them from the frame and cut off the fins and smooth out the hub would take 20 min with a belt sander or dremel. If i end up doing it ill post a write up on it my main concern is there is not an easy way of reversing the rotation on pc fans so i would have to mount them with one flipped over.

It's not opinion. Battery ratings aren't user based. Google 'Trustfire explosion,' or similar.

It is a known fact that "fire" batteries can vary from 500mA up to 4A discharge current and most fall in the 2-3A range unless they are cheap low quality cells. The stock motors are made to do with 500mA at best with 4 AA batteries. By giving them a proper power source they can scream to their hearts content. IMR or LI-MN cells discharge 10A-35A burst and should be the only drop in choice anyone considers. Lipo packs like most suggest are expensive but they are far better than any others you can pickup ones that can do 50-100A burst discharge.

Also trust fire and ultra fire are very commonly counterfeited look up counterfeit ultrafire dissection. There are 3 ways they are faked the worst is when they put a 30 mAh foil pack inside an 18650 can and fill the rest with sand or flour or plaster dust so the weight is close enough. There are just cheap cells not made very well these are the fire balls waiting to happen. Then there are 900mA cells labeled 3800mAh.

I would pull cells from laptop batteries before i bought a fire brand. For 14500 cells aw or efest imr are better than any fire and they can do decent amps.

RPM doesn't directly influence fps, per say. It's the speed of the edge of the flywheel. Since your flywheels are connected by a belt, the edge speed is the same on both. This has no advantage over simply feeding the dart in the larger wheels in the back, and has the added disadvantage of extra friction in the system.

not to mention the added mass will reduce the run time significantly that said you would need to maintain tension on the belts or bands making this blaster even heavier this would be a good thing for if we needed a high torque motor in this type of setup but we don't torque equates to how much mass can be tossed out rpm gives you how fast it will be going relative to how much kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart as in how much the dart slips on the flywheels as it moves through...

The faster the flywheels are spinning the faster the dart will end up how much momentum the dart picks up is dependent on the grip and slippage. Torque is a matter of how much the wheels will slow down when they are hit with the load of the dart...

this is all gear ratio the smaller gear in the front would be more rotations for every one rotation of the torquey slower motors in the rear example a 3 to 1 gear ratio as in for every one rotation of the big wheel equals 3 rotations of the smaller wheel this also adds speed to the small wheel the small wheel will spin 3 times faster than the big wheel. idea is not bad but makes for a clunky heavy gun and honestly i would just stick with current designs they are simpler and easier to work with than figuring this out and then keeping your fingers out of the danger zone...

You could design it to be driven by 1 motor but there will be another gear involved to get them spinning the right way.

Lithium batteries from a laptop are not high discharge, though. Just FYI.

no they have a discharge of 3-5A but it is a cheaper reliable source of quality cells vs spinning the wheel on a *fire brand battery if you're after 18650 size. 14500 you need to spin the wheel and you should not run any cell other than imr or li-fe. Normal unprotected Li-ion are asking for bad things.

But the speed of the edge of the gear would be exactly the same on the small and large gears. Unless you can't find larger flywheels and simply must use the stock ones, there is no advantage to this system over using large flywheels. And if you desperately need to use stock flywheels and want to make them spin faster, you're better off buying faster motors than dealing with belts and pulleys and having to make sure they're tensioned properly, and aren't going to explode from the speeds.


This. I don't know of any really hardcore tests done, but I believe we've long since hit the peak flywheel velocity from single flywheel pairs.

which is why i said to stick with current designs no sense in trying to reinvent the wheel. current designs are very simple this would add un-needed complexity current designs 2 identical motors spin directly 2 wheels the opposite way of each other given the same power source they spin at the same velocity.

Whoa. I just watched a video of a trustfire explosion and it was insane! Apparently those things can explode even when not in use and are just being stored! I am never buying those things in my life. I am going to have to stick to lipo's forever.

Just be sure to not get the soft package ones and treat them with respect... Sure they are safer but if they get punctured or you exceed the current draw they can violently vent or puff... Nothing good ever spits out of a battery when they vent... I have also read about someone who charged their *fire battery properly they put it in a drawer for use later nothing shorting it or anything he came into his shop after hearing a pop and it was the battery having vented...

Most safe
LiFeLiFE
LiMnimr
NiMHNiMH
LiPolipo
Li-ion protected
Li-ion quality cellsLi-ion
Cheap Chinese Li-ion *FIRE brandsBoom and Fake
Less safe

In mods with STOCK wiring and motors a good set of IMR or LiMn batteries is fine the stock motors wont draw over 10A.
In mods with Alternate high voltage motors LiPo, LiFe or NiMH packs. You can use these with stock motors but thermal fuses must in most cases be removed.
In mods with alternate low voltage motors A 1s LiPo LiFe or NiMH or AA NiMH are the choice you need to keep in mind most of these motors are 3v they can be over volted a bit to 4.5 or maybe 6v at most...


also any battery that gets abused can explode including alkaline...

Stall current draw is for a very short period, unless there is a jam. I have not worked out the math myself, but I am sure someone in the business already has. Also "most" blasters is really over selling it.

I suppose i could clarify that a bit more to most heavily modified with motor swaps. Either way anything but semi stock is going to pull more than 3 amps on those momentary spikes and those momentary spikes are bad for the batteries and it is enough that trustfires are not particularly up to the task... Will a difference be noticed probably not. But I would rather not take the chance on those li-ion venting on me...

Hey, have you been out to one of our wars in Wilsonville? If not, we'll have another next month on the 18th.




I have yet to see any real evidence of this happening in our hobby. I have seen accounts of it in stupid situations, like vaporizer pens, but those people are all trying to kill themselves anyway.

yeah those vape sticks basically short the battery when they use them...

but even if they are safe enough they still only deal 1-3 amps when most nerf guns use around 7-8 amps stall unless your rocking stock motors those only draw close to 3.

I just want to know. Torque is for the efficiency. That doesn't mean I don't want rpm.

EDIT: The flywheels I'll use will make slippage more minor of a problem.

there is only so much you can do vs slippage i suppose the torque would help with heavier wheels too...

Wait a second... this gives me an idea! If the Zeus has 380 motors, and Xtreme Productions (home of the xtreme pro 180) makes 380 motors... You see where I'm going.

different ammo as far as i know few mods there was one that was full auto at 11v looked beastly

So I am working on a Demolisher any I already took out all the locks any sawed off the rocket launcher, but I am wondering two things, 1: what batteries should I use? 3 Trust Fires and a dummy? Or something else? 2: If I paint, should I paint the inner shell too? Sorry I'm a bit of a newbie, but I've been modding for at least 4 months now so I still got questions! Thanks.

ideally a lipo 2s or 3s with a motor replacement and full rewire. 10-400 amp discharge

less ideally 2-3 IMR 14500 or 18650 stock motor or upgraded motors with rewire 10-60 amp discharge

even less 6 AA eneloops 3-5 amp discharge

terrible trustfire 2-3 1-3 amp discharge tendency to explode or catch fire when mistreated.

non upgrade aa 4 1.5 amp discharge

Painting anywhere that is not seen or rubs plastic on plastic is not advised so the mag well and the top of the mag.

my friend got one of the storm trooper ones for 31 dollars at our local walmart...

was saying that for the purposes of you likely have hundreds of darts where as just getting into the zeus you would only have the ammo it came with if you were to pick this up for modding a fundamental expense rises across the board new ammo stock pile new mag stock pile if your purposes are for a nerf war with shock and awe factor i dont see it being all that useful that said i can see nerf phasing out darts for this. engineering can only take the darts so far.

Exotics are just fine. I just want to know are there any better ones.


Torque is the focus, not rpm!

Why do you need super high torque... The fps comes from rpm the load of the darts comes from torque. So heavier darts would be the only benefit and it might hit harder but it would not go as far and would have greater slippage on the darts.

I call bullshit on those shots-per-charge calculations. 300mAh is a tiny battery. Stock motors have winding impedances of something like 12-15 ohms, right? Even if we give them a relatively conservative number like 20 ohms, they'll still be pulling about 300-350mA at 7.4V. That gives them less than an hour of operation under ideal conditions. So I don't buy it.

The shots per charge was not calculated in a very accurate way it doesn't take into account that as the battery drops it drops quicker the lower it gets. Also the 35C constant 75C burst is 300mA * 35 and 300*75 for 10.5 amp constant and 22.5 amp burst this kinda puts it down to imr range.

For those that did not know C rating is a measure of how much current can be discharged it represents the capacity of the battery array * rating C = amps possible. So if you have a battery that is 300mA with 25c constant it can deliver 10.5 amps constantly.

I think unless your running non stock motors that pull 20 or more amps you dont really need to run these lipo packs you can do IMR. Are they ideal? No, but the good chargers for them can do other chemistry too. I use a nitecore d4 to charge mine it does NiMH, Li-ion, Li-Mn, Li-Fepo4 and Nicd and it has a 12v input so i could use my car accessory plug to charge them.

my stryfe is running on a pair of these they are ~14c
efest v2 IMR 14500 3.7v High Discharge
Maximum Continuous Discharge Rate: 9.75A
Maximum Continuous Charging Rate: 1.3A
Chemistry: Li-MN
Rated Capacity: 700mAh

Good tips, thank you. I like these ideas.

I have not formally monitored the battery life. However, I have fired about 200 darts through my Stryfe with the Turnigy Lipo and it's dropped from 4.16v/cell to 3.96v/cell, which linearly extrapolates to 860 darts before the Turnigy Lipo needs to be swapped out (low voltage alarm is set to go off at 3.3v/cell.

Start/End Voltage: 4.16/3.96 = 0.2v used
Darts Fired: 200
4.16v-3.3v = .86v/.001 = 860 dart battery life (SD +/-80)

Dang, I like the idea of a digital voltage meter. I could probably trim out a window on starboard side and rig my digital voltage meter/alarm for viewing. I like your top side idea better though, more functional.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZPKV4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the ones i got. Like i said no cutting needed the plastic of the nerf gun lets enough light through that you can just glue it to the inside and it shows through. In the stryfe on either side of the magazine area the meter is thin enough that it doesn't interfere. I'm also thinking near the back on the left half of the shell it should not interfere with the trigger but ill have to decide when i get around to putting it in where exactly it will end up.

Yes, you are correct.

If that is the one thing you remove from the internals i highly suggest it. It is just a mechanical lock that gets in the way more than it helps honestly i would pull all the mechanical locks and trim the top of the rev trigger so the dart trigger does not hit it rather than trimming the dart trigger like most guides suggest.


Also what are the run times like for that battery pack?

My next mod is going to be the addition of a volt meter inside my stryfe when i do ill get pictures of my rewire with solid core 18 gauge it was interesting to work with. I may or may not swap the stock rev switch to a 10A switch. and i may or may not use the jam door switch to turn off and on the volt meter i also thought about placing the volt meter where you have your battery so when i check the voltage i flip it up get the reading close it turns off the meter. I tested it and when placed against the plastic you can read the numbers through the plastic so it can be super stealth.

I can't say much about the 130 form factor motors. However, here is some information that may help with the 14500 batteries.

What you have to understand is that none of the batteries are made by the companies selling them. Trustfire, ultrafire, tangsfire, etc., are all resellers of these cells. The original LiCo cells are manufactured by companies such as Samsung and Sanyo and they are not sold individually.

This leads to a few issues. We have no idea where those batteries are coming from and they may very well be recycled or quality control failures. And two, the claims of battery capacity are completely false. Regardless of what the reseller has printed on the label, the 14500's will carry about 400-600mah and the 18650's around 1600-1800mah. I have heard that the Efest brand uses a different chemistry and can supply higher currents, however I have not personally tested them. At least they don't lie about the capacity of the battery, anyway.

Li-ion they use colbalt and some other materials they typically are the ones that vent and there are alot of counterfit batteries labled trustfire or ultrafire i recommend avoiding these batteries. most will handle 1A discharge some will handle up to 3-4A discharge.

Efest IMR is Li-MN or lithium manganese these are safer they can still vent but tests have shown dead shorts only causing them to heat up to around 170F then quit and read 0 volts. They can be charged just fine in the same charger as li-ion and these can put out around 10A so they will be better for recovery and stall... I use these they are made by efest and i find 2 of them work great.

Li-fe these are supposedly safer yet and are more durable however this chemistry touts a lower voltage of 3.3 as such these can not be charged in a li-ion charger and must be charged in a charger that supports them. Tenergy makes these and they have been having issues with counterfeiting.

As for a charger i suggest a nitecore d2 or i2 the newest model should handle any type of battery you have they will even do Nicd or NIMH and li-fe

http://www.amazon.co...rds=nitecore d2

http://www.amazon.co...rds=efest 14500

Also these batteries Lipo li-ion li-mn all 3 of these are considered discharged and in need of being recharged when they hit about 3.2 volts per cell this is still enough to spin the motors and fire just fine but continuing to drain them past this point will damage them. Li-ion when abused either over discharge or over charge tend to vent and cause fires.

To let me know when my batteries are low i put one of these in my stryfe http://www.amazon.co...voltage display

It has a calibration pot on it and i did calibrate mine to my multimeter and i hooked it up to the jam door switch so when i open the door it turns on. I did not cut a hole for it i just hot glued it to the inside of the plastic where i had room as it is bright enough to shine through the plastic it looks a bit fuzzy but is readable.

And for dummy batteries... you will need the following
Solid copper wire 16 gauge preferable i used 18
a AA battery for reference
a piece of paper standard printer paper is what i used
tape or elmers glue or wood glue (i recommend glue it makes for a more durable finished product.)
a pair of needle nose pliers
a pair of scissors

cut your self a piece of wire about 2 inches longer than a AA battery
now cut a strip of paper exactly as wide as a AA battery is long not out to the button on the positive side place wire at one end with a small bit hanging out the positive side and a longer bit hanging out the negative side start the roll and put some glue down as you roll the wire the paper will quickly make it the size of a AA battery when it reaches the size of a AA cut off the remainder of the paper and tape or hold while the glue sets. after the glue sets take the needle nose and curl the short bit of wire into a nub like the battery and coil the longer end tightly to form a plate at the negative end when done you should have a wire the size of a AA battery that fits and passes voltage and current over the wire. You could make the blank longer to be as long as 2AA end to end as well I find that a piece of printer paper length wise makes a AA battery when wrapped around 18 gauge solid core. You can get about 4 blanks out of one sheet.

Dont bother with the laser i got a red airsoft laser that goes on a tact rail and it was useless ripped it off soon after...

as for the 2s

8 AA batteries adds alot of weight to it doesn't it but it sounds beast you might want to look into IMR 14500 batteries they are AA size and can handle more amperage output than a alkaline.

If you want to go the pack route then your really only limited by where you can fit it you could run a cable to a belt pouch with a 10,000 mAh battery in it.

And as for motors i would not bother until the stock ones burn up then look at rc racing motors hyper dash ect but keep in mind they are meant to run on 3v-6v not 7.4-12

Is there any Canadian here? Where can we get supply like batteries,chargers and maybe even motors online? Hobbyking is charging like 30$ for shipping and couldnt find a half decent canadian store...

amazon is where i get my stuff they have the turnigy battery packs too they dont seem to have any efests other than 18650 tho. that is on the Canadian site...

is that the dart sensor still in there?

Because Ultrafires are crap batteries. They have very low current, lots of voltage sag, and their specs are HIGHLY exaggerated. They are designed for flashlights, not motors.

and imr are less crap but still not ideal for anything but lights. Lipo packs are best if you need convenience and have good lights you might have better options with imr. If you have r/c and use lipo for more than just nerf then lipo might be better.

MOST battery types are dangerous if mistreated. Ultrafire/trustfires can explode if overdrawn (There are reports of this happening in stampedes). IMRs can spew fire if punctured. LiPos will spew fire if punctured and shorted. Rule of thumb when dealing with ANYTHING explosive/flammable? Take precautions, and handle it appropriately.

Fact: Gasoline is extremely explosive, but we pump GALLONS of it inside our cars and DRIVE AROUND over 70 MPH!!!

There are very few battery failures in Nerf period. And I imagine they all stem from abuse or overdrawing the battery with too much current. You see a lot more battery failures in quad copters because they ride the jagged line of max current and weight and sometimes mess up the math. Just build some cushion so you don't draw too much amperage from your battery and don't poke it with nails/jagged edges.

yep we are all driving rolling bombs (gasoline or lithium battery packs) carrying bombs (any portable device with a lipo example any cell phone or laptop or tablet) and wearing bombs on our wrists (any smartwatch)


for that matter alkaline batteries can explode too and they are filled with potassium phosphate or lye...

If you really want something that wont explode stick to potatoes and lemons...

Also, If i use a microswitch rated for .5 amps, will some nimH cells or a 2 amp lipo burn it out when i get some crazy stall motors?
and i dont get why lighter flywheels can be dangerous

Normal NiMH can only push at best 1500mA Normal AA can only do .5A or 500mA. If you use a microswitch rated to .5A only .5A can pass through it without generating heat over that can go through it but it will heat and can fail. Example of what can happen you have a stryfe you have blades in it low resistance wire and use a 25-50c battery pack then you use the switch that came with the stryfe the motors will attempt to draw up to 10A when a jam or dart hits the flywheels the only thing your gun has that cant handle that type of load is the switch. When the motors start pulling the amperage the switch passes it as best it can as it exceeds the switch it gets hotter and hotter until thermal failure occurs something burns or melts.

Stock motors with better wires and cleaned up circuits will have little issue with the stock switches and amperage under 3A if you upgrade the brushes/motor and raise the voltage a better switch might be in order.

This is why i feel unless your going for the full rebuild you dont need a lipo pack if your doing wires, motors and a lipo pack why keep the old switches might as well change them too.

What is better? Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's or these? http://www.ebay.ca/i...=item234020055e

The axle are a bit long you will need to cut them probably.

I, too, have been doing a lot of research on flywheel blasters, motors, and batteries. Though I haven't gotten to actually try them out for myself (saving for a house takes a good bit out of the hobby budget), I suggest the motors talked about here in place of the stock motors. No afterburners required, but you will need to cut some holes in the shell because the motors are a bit longer than the stock ones.

Run them using a 2S (7.4V) LiPo, with something like a 25C rating. I think that they will also handle a 3S LiPo (11.1V I believe) if you really wanted, so running them via 9Volt shouldn't burn them up.

On the other hand, because you'll be getting less current out of the 9Volt battery, you'll probably have problems with spinup time and rapid-fire (in other words, your range will decrease and/or your gun will jam if you try to fire too quickly).

I suggest reading that blog for more info. You'll want to rewire the blaster with larger gauge wire and use a better acceleration switch (all of which will let the LiPo get more current to the motors).

Most 25c 2s 7.4v will provide ~10-30A the best a 9v can do is .2A those motors suck down around 3-10A stall and use 1-3A at speed this means a 9v will not last for more than a few shots and those shots are going to suck. The only option that works without too much modification is imr 14500 li-mn batteries rayven holds 3 AA stock 2 and a dummy battery will make it scream and you wont need motors or afterburner my stryfe fires about 100 ft stock motors with 2 of these ditch the idea of using 9v batteries they have no use in nerf unless they are powering a flashlight.

you can run the stock motors on the IMR 14500 or 2s lipo the IMR has the benefit of looking fully stock you can use 2 or 3 but 2 is a decent improvement over AA and does not make the darts hit so hard that they feel too non stock but it does make them fly further and hit about as hard as the best shot stock.

To clear up confusion, Yes I am intending to brass the Rayven, and I probably will not brass the interior of the barrel extension, as it will just be there to under-mount my other project, an inline shotgunned triad with a larger piston for more range. My question was actually whether there was a grease or lubricant I can use to reduce friction in the barrel, so as to not slow down the dart as much? I'm not going for something that can be used to eat shit from 1000 feet away, but I like to hedge my bets on the powerful side so I can have to tune it down, instead of put more money into it to up tune it a second time. For the batteries, does 2s versus 3s make a difference? I know(I think) that the more mAH a batter has, the longer it will last, but what difference do the amount of cells make, if any? we are ordering motors and batteries in a couple of days, so I am trying to get all of my stuff ironed out so that my dad and I can bundle it all in one order. Also, thank you for being so amazingly prompt to answer my questions, though I haven't been as prompt as I wish I could be in answering yours. Thank you again!

With flywheels brassing is nearly pointless mostly a cosmetic thing the make or break for flywheels is the power supply, motors and flywheels. The rayven has some great wheels to mod look up lightening them and it will show you how to cut material from them to make them lighter and spin up better. For grip plasti dip or i have been toying with the idea of lightly sanding my flywheels to give them a rougher surface thus adding grip. The motors higher rpm means faster flywheels for faster darts too fast flywheels melt off the shafts or just melt the darts. If this is happening turn down the rpms/voltage or add grip to flywheels some how either by using stiffer foam for less collapse i like the straw method to make my darts stiffer. Or by coating the flywheels in something or even small holes but i wanted to avoid that as it tears up darts a bit faster or comes off overtime. It should be mentioned coating the flywheels in plasti dip will slightly increase mass outward. And nerf xd version blasters with flywheels have a cage with the wheels closer together for more crush and grip.

2s vs 3s is 7.2-8.4v vs 11.1-14.4v extra cell is more voltage need to be careful about what the motors can handle. You will want to start with 2s on the stock motors any more than that shortens the life.

It is very tricky as you hit about 110 fps the darts become the limiting factor more so than the gun firing them and you can make flywheel blasters hit that mark by simply replacing the power supply. A 2s lipo at 7.4 is enough to get you up there and you can make other improvements to get a few more fps or feet by pushing the rpm up more and more coat the flywheels and lighten them and bump the voltage up more then the motors give out replace them with motors that can run even faster at higher voltage. And the gains are just hampered by darts that fly off mark so consistently you end up with 30 to 50ft of useful accuracy where a slower flywheel can do up to 100ft with acceptable accuracy.

So my advise is baby steps your just now getting into tuning the flywheel blasters put the rc connector in and rewire it with good wires 16 Gauge Silicone Wire the rayven can be turned into a really simple circuit just the battery and the momentary switch btw the one in the stock blaster is only rated to about .5A you can pass more but it will eventually burn replacing the switch is advised pick out a momentary that can handle more 15A seem sufficient. While your in there you can toss some connectors to disconnect the motors and replace them later when you burn out the stock motors.

Is that possible yet to grind your own plastic up and extrude filament for a 3D printer? If so the idea of getting a 3D printer might be moving up on my list.

LGN

not all 3d printers use abs

making filament is not too difficult you just need to heat the material evenly and precisely until it gets to a uniform consistency then it gets pushed through a die

Alright, i'll try popping the resistors off, and see how that goes
(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community )

those are inductors not resistors leave them be they help with the amperage drawn from the battery set look at bridging the diodes in the trigger area to remove the slow down while the pusher is not active instead.

another thing you can do is is rework the trigger area that is where the most restrictive part of the circuits are. The rapid strike has a pair of diodes that function as a limiter while the pusher is not active you can do the extra work and strip out most of this.

honestly http://www.blasterte...3_13607466.aspx
the falcon 130 motors look to be beastly...