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#346158 How to fix a stryfe

Posted by Lunas on 14 April 2015 - 04:25 AM in Modifications

we need better details than it didn't fire...

such as it would jam up frequently or it had poor distances

if it is jamming up it is likely the dart lock in which case open it pull out the orange spring loaded thing it serves only one purpose to keep the trigger from being pulled without a dart pushing it up.

if it is just getting poor distances that is somewhat normal do a power supply mod and perhaps rewire that will fix that.

if the motors are either not working going to need to figure out why and while your at it either swap them for ones that work or rewire it and fix the break and while your at it remove the locks...



#342570 Rapidstrike Revving Problem

Posted by Lunas on 25 October 2014 - 06:24 PM in General Nerf

I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.

look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.



#345318 Buying Batteries (Trustfires/Ultrafires) in Canada

Posted by Lunas on 02 March 2015 - 01:30 AM in Modifications

Hello Nerf Haven,
I have done all the basic mods to my strife (taken out electronic/mechanical locks and rewired) as well as replaced the stock motors with the Solarbotic's RM2s (This was a while ago, I realize now that it was a possible waste of money.)
I am now looking to buy the standard ultrafires/trustfires to up the voltage. I'm in Canada, so because of weird rules/lack of website support/Canadian import taxes that I'm definitely not an expert on, I (think) I need to order them from ebay.ca or amazon.ca. I have tried ordering a couple before but long story short I didn't receive them. There is also a lot of fake ultrafires that are being sold.

I came to ask my fellow Canadian's if they could give me a link(s) in order to buy 6 ultrafires/trustfires with a charger, and a dummy battery.

I would prefer for these to be tested sellers so I don't get scammed again. The number of batteries the charger supports doesn't concern me, I just need the correct batteries (size/voltage/capacity) in order to run in my stock AA battery tray.
Your help is very much appreciated.
Thanks, eh?

i would not go for anyfire...

amazon ships to canada
this site apparently stocks the but is oos right now http://www.canadaeju...ttery- Flat top



#342075 Rapidstrike Revving Problem

Posted by Lunas on 19 September 2014 - 08:07 PM in General Nerf

Like the silverhead said it is normal nerf put a limiter that gets removed when the pusher motor is activated when you hold it down the motors go full speed when you just run the acceleration switch the flywheels run at 75% or so.

If you are handy and know your way around a soldering iron then you could just mod it.



#343748 chronographing for a nerf war

Posted by Lunas on 28 December 2014 - 08:04 PM in Off Topic

like he said ^ MANDATE eye ware at my last event i did not bring my eye wear and got hit in my eye with a stock retaliator it hurt like hell even though it was stock.

I would place certified stock or under 110 fps with stock darts only as my rules 80-110 fps will still shoot over 100ft



#342394 Best Batteries with Low Prices

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 06:56 AM in Modifications

Ebay is a bad source a lot of fake batteries

Stock motors run fine on IMR cells but these are expensive
Nitecore i2 charger
Nitecore d2 charger with car adaptor and battery storage box
Nitecore i4 4 slot charger
d4 4 slot (i have this)

these should fit in a rapidstrike tray in place of the c-cells with the center divider gone
18650 30A discharge
10A imr efest 18650

14500 10A efest


for lipo hobby king has excellent prices and sells through amazon...
charger



#342110 Stryfe Motor Replacement Disappointment

Posted by Lunas on 21 September 2014 - 07:54 PM in Modifications

To cut to the meat of what you need to do to fix it.

1. Flywheels

Remove the electrical tape therfore is a number of things you can use:
Flex seal
Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating
plasti dip<- most people use this it is cheap but eventually wears off.

I also wonder if just lightly sanding them with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to get the smooth sheen off the flywheels would be enough.

2. Batteries

IF you absolutely need to use AA shaped sized batteries that you can get in a place like wal-mart your stuck using NiMh or lithium primaries.
With rm2 you cant go much above stock 6 volts with proper current or you will fry them unless you c-mod them.

Best:Highest discharge Reasonably safe. Most expensive you will be looking at 10-40$ for the battery and 20-300$ for a charger.
4.2v rc lipo pack look for tenergy or a well made pack
w/brush replacement
7.2-11.1v rc race pack tenergy is a good brand you need a balance charger

Acceptable: less expensive than rc pack more expensive than nimh 10-15 for a pair of imr and 15-20 for a nitecore d4 charger. Use 1 or 2 in parallel unless you c-mod the rm2 using 2 in series is the most you should try 2 in series is 8.4v fresh off the charger 7.4v is what they will drop to then when dead 6.2v If you continue to run them down you will damage the cells and end up with batteries that wont take a charge.
14500 size lithium batteries li-Mn or Li-Fe-po4 High current they are available up to 20A discharge rates these chemistry are much much safer than Li-ion Li-Fe being the safest of the 2...
14500 Efest IMR Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 AW imr Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 Tenergy Li-Fe-Po4 3.3v

Bad: the cheapest about 10$ gets you 4 batteries and a charger. Nimh deliver about 1-2A in bursts but don't have the capacity to sustain much more than that. Lithium primaries can do 3 A continuous or 5A burst.
AA NiMH batteries 1.2v batteries
Lithium primary energizer or photo cells AA

worst:4-6 dollars a pop for 4 low current discharge
AA duracell rayovac energizer doesn't matter what they add to the end of it they all suck 500mA draw is the best they can muster.

UNSAFE:
*****Fire Li-ion unprotected cells (your asking for a fire or a face full of lithium hydroxide)
goes by many names: Trustfire and ultrafire are most common these are the typical cell most modders used at first they are good for about 2-5A draw and they are the most volatile they have been known to propel flashlights around the room like a rocket propelled on highly toxic gas that even a little bit can damage your lungs permanently.

Fix those 2 issues you should see about 110 FPS and around 70-90ft ranges. Some sort of voltage monitor would be advised to add to the setup with anything rechargeable draining them past a point will damage them.



#345728 Simple minimized rapidstrike (+AA conversion)

Posted by Lunas on 21 March 2015 - 09:48 PM in Modifications

pretty gnarled up there plans to paint it? honestly i would have gone with a lipo or imr mod rather than AA



#346886 Difference between Epoxy and Epoxy Putty?

Posted by Lunas on 22 May 2015 - 08:43 PM in Modifications

epoxy putty is very messy to use i recommend using gloves with both. It is basically play-doh mixed with the liquid epoxy it does not adhere as good as the liquid both dry hard and brittle.
The liquid leaves a thinner coat the putty is used to fill gaps both can be sanded to get the finish you want. And since you can make a big block of the putty it works well for structural joints. Both can flake or break off if you don't prep the joint right.


I once used a tube of the liquid to fix the hinges on a laptop the next time i tried the putty the liquid seemed to do a better job but i had issues keeping it where i wanted it that is why i tried the putty the next time neither as far as i know have failed yet and that was several years now... The putty ended up taking longer to hold and i dont think it was ever as secure as the liquid the liquid ended up with the laptop working like new.



#348454 Srtyfe Battery Inquiries

Posted by Lunas on 20 August 2015 - 01:52 AM in Modifications

1. If I run a 2s 25c LiPo, will it be weaker than Ultrafires or not? (High Discharge but low voltage)
A. It will be equal to running 2 ultrafires
2. If I run a 3s 20c LiPo, is it necessary to change my rev switch into a high current micro switch?
A. Maybe the original switches are rated much lower they will eventually burn out and don't pass as much current but stock motors on 3s you can skip the switch upgrade for now you should think hard about doing it eventually.
3. If I run a 500mAh pack and I'm playing for 5 hours, do I need to bring 2 packs? (don't want to cut shell)
A. depends on motors and play style how heavy handed you are on the rev switch. From what i have found 800-1000 is the biggest that fits in a stryfe with a little bit of modding as in removing dividers and support ribs on the battery door
4. Can anybody give me a link for tutorials on how to charge LiPos using a smart charger? (maybe an IMAX B6 Balance Charger?)
A. Google youtube then "how to use imax b6. first result
5. My LiPo has a JST discharge plug and a JST-XH balance plug, if I want to plug both into my Stryfe or my balance charger, what terminals should I use for the Stryfe and the charger? (Male/Female)
A. The stryfe wont have anything you will need to install something to plug into the balance port and the discharge the jst is what you will plug into the stryfe you will need something like this
6.Do stock motors spin fast on a 2s LiPo? (Related to Question 1)
A. I find they do fine on 2 IMR which would be like a 2s 700mAH 10c
7. How do I solder a Female JST plug to my wire to plug LiPos in? (if you have a link, it's fine)
http://www.amazon.co... plug connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqV2xU1fee8
it should be pretty self explanatory you run the two wires into the guts of the stryfe and where the 2 wires connect to the battery tray you connect the jst

google and search will both give you numerous how to on modding the stryfe most commonly a rewire mod first result on google search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4AR9fvwlYw ONLY thing i have to say about the video is those "resistors" are not resistors they are Transistors they drop voltage and increase amperage but are not needed.

odd how all of your questions are not yes or no...

another useful bit of knowledge is here is a listing of max acceptable amperage for a given wire size we would be looking at both chassis is more short bursts and what we would use primarily but for longer use the transmission is important too as at a given amperage the wire will heat up and eventually melt
AWG max Amp chassis  max Amp power transmission
10	55	      15
11	47	      12	
12	41	       9.3	
13	35	       7.4	
14	32	       5.9	
15	28	       4.7	
16	22	       3.7	
17	19	       2.9	
18	16	       2.3	
19	14	       1.8	
20	11	       1.5



#345302 Motor Replacements for Modified Stryfe

Posted by Lunas on 28 February 2015 - 07:38 PM in Modifications

This motor:
http://www.tamiyausa...h-3-motor-15477

3-4 ultrafires is too much voltage and not enough current and will shorten the life of the motor. Run it on 1s IMR / Lipo, or a 3 or 4s NMH pack.

Also, unless someone posts chronograph numbers after coating the flywheels, I wouldn't mess with it at all. Anything you put on them will increase their weight which will increase the time it takes to spin up the motors. It will also decrease battery life from the increased load and will increase the amount of heat being generated in the motor which will shorten the life of the motor.

the op could run 3 in parallel to increase the amperage and capacity that could be pulled from the cells.



#341762 Nerf Disc Shot

Posted by Lunas on 06 September 2014 - 11:21 AM in Modifications

The only thing i can think of is your going to have to trial and error with a universal tv remote there will be 2 codes one to move the launch angle one to launch a disc. It is somewhat complicated but i would try a tv remote see if any buttons or combo of buttons triggers anything.

Other options involve much more complicated methods involving making a new control board with an arduino. It would not be overly complicated to control a 3 position servo a variable speed motor and the launch solenoid. It is beyond my skill but it would be possible.

A easier method might be to buy a second one with a remote they are 65-130 on ebay or find someone with the remote willing to let you record the pulses from it you could then program a select few remotes perhaps even a tv be gone diy type unit you would just need to use the 2 codes from the actual remote instead of the on/off db they flash on the diy chips.


http://www.instructa...e-with-Arduino/



#347089 Rapidstrike help

Posted by Lunas on 09 June 2015 - 02:18 AM in Modifications

my brother had put away his rapid strike for a couple of weeks, and now the clip lock button is stuck in the release position making it impossible to keep a clip in it. if anyone has had this problem or knows how I may be able to fix it that would be a lot of help.

try actuating it a few times or take it apart.



#346994 LiFePo vs Ultrafire vs Efest IMR

Posted by Lunas on 30 May 2015 - 12:23 PM in Modifications

Found some of these 14500 size batteries I hadn't seen before:
http://pages.ebay.co...5647735&alt=web

They look like a great deal, but before buying some I thought I'd ask here if anyone has had experience with them. How do they compare to LiIon batteries like IMRs or Ultrafires? I would be running these in a resistor/lock free stryfe circuit with the stock motors. I've been using ultrafires in all my stryfe mods before now, and they've worked just fine for me. These LiFePo batteries, however, look to be cheaper and they come from the US. Thanks for the help!

~Rave

not so fast

those from what i can find are likely only rated to 2C so 1.4 AMP if the 700 mAh is correct. Lifepo4 is a more durable chemistry and frequently found to be able to do up to 30C. however i will now throw back these are cheap Chinese cells i know everything i made there these days but the 700mAh is definitely exagerated it is likely closer to 450-550mAh in which case it is only good for 1.1 Amp discharge and being they are meant for solar lights i would think this is most likely the case. If these were unprotected cells and they could do 30C that is still only ~15 Amps if it is indeed 500 mAh if it actually is 700 and a bare unprotected cell and can do 30C your looking at 21 Amps.

That is also assuming these are indeed lifepo4 cells there is a story about some knock off tenergy lifepo4 exploding inside a flashlight while the owner was holding it in his mouth working on his truck. The knock offs were never found so it could never be determined definitively but it was believed they were actually li-ion. Not much was left of the flashlight body either. What set those off was believed to be thermal shock.


So i guess what im trying to tell you is don't take your life in the hands of cheap batteries... these also require a compatible charger li-ion chargers are not all compatible... and just because the seller is in the US does not mean they are not made overseas (they say made in CHINA on the side)


Efest IMR v2 Li-Mn 3.7-4.2v 9.7 Amp discharge rate safer chemistry limited medium capacity more expensive than li-ion
Ultrafire Li-Ion 3.7v-4.2v 2-3A discharge unsafe delicate chemistry Highest capacity cheapest
Lifepo4 3.3v 1a-21A typical discharge safest chemistry and most expensive lowest capacity

Imr is Lithium manganese chemistry abbreviated Li-Mn
Ultrafires are li-ion which are lithium cobalt
Lifepo4 are lithium iron phosphate



#347904 Stryfe Flywheel Braking

Posted by Lunas on 17 July 2015 - 09:07 PM in Modifications

So for the later part of the past few months I have been working on a Stryfe Falcon 130 build. I want to add some sort of braking to the motors so when I let go of the rev trigger the motors stop almost immediately. I have seen videos of finished projects of this type but no diagrams on how the circuit is set up. I know I need to run a wire from the motors to the switch but am un sure if it's off of the positive or negative wire and to what terminal on the switch (I think it's to the Normally closed terminal (also what terminal is that, my wiring loom is coming to me prebuilt from http://www.blasterte...3_13607495.aspx)). If someone could help me out in pointing me in a direction as to a diagram or better yet pictures, I'd be more than appreciated. If it helps any I plan on running this blaster off of a 3S Lipo (not sure if it makes any difference)

not really for motor braking it is connecting the positive and negative side of the motors the diode is the actual thing you want though as it serves the same purpose and is actually something your supposed to do with dc motors or inductors...


You should put a diode across the terminals of the motor this will stop them from generating power and feeding it back into the circuit as they spin down. Add the diode pointing towards the positive on both motors this is the safest method and costs very little i think 2 diodes can be had for like 10 cents...

Or you can take the jam door switch and put it as the new rev switch the second and 3rd pin 2 pins will be the on off for the rev circuit and the 1st pin connected to the negative on the battery tray is the brake...

http://www.mouser.co...fX4nEEHllp3mZcc .18 cents each you need 2



#342355 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 October 2014 - 09:57 PM in Modifications

I have recently bought IMR Batteries and have only put about 30 rounds through my Stryfe before the Thermistor shut down my blaster. I will rewire my Stryfe over the weekend, but I was wondering: Is it safe to run a Stryfe on four IMRs for long term usage? I'm using the stock motors. Thanks!

I would not there is a rather steep curve upward on noise from these motors. I would run on 2 or 3 but personally i run 2 and keep 2 charged for when the first 2 are exhausted.

If you need a battery blank i made my own using a sheet of paper and a solid core wire down the center with a coil on either end. I simply rolled a piece of paper around a wire until it was as thick as a AA then put glue on either end then stripped the wire ends and coiled them to form terminals... i have 2 one that is 2 AA end to end long one that is a single AA long removes and sits just as a battery would.



#347071 Stampede Problems

Posted by Lunas on 06 June 2015 - 07:31 PM in Modifications

try spinning the motor it might be stuck... or burnt out another thing would be make sure all the locks are actuated...

Also kill leader... dont you need a custom Rapidstrike or stryfe/rayven for that these days...



#343505 [Guide] Rapidstrike with 18650s in stock battery tray

Posted by Lunas on 14 December 2014 - 06:27 PM in Modifications

Been meaning to find the time to post my tray

https://www.dropbox....032247.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox....032304.jpg?dl=0

I am going to eventually open my RS and when i do I may add another method of transferring power from tray to gun im thinking of mounting a xt60 connector to the occupied side of the gun so i could open it without cutting the negative terminal again... If i ever do make this modification ill make my own thread on how i did it.