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The liquid leaves a thinner coat the putty is used to fill gaps both can be sanded to get the finish you want. And since you can make a big block of the putty it works well for structural joints. Both can flake or break off if you don't prep the joint right.
I once used a tube of the liquid to fix the hinges on a laptop the next time i tried the putty the liquid seemed to do a better job but i had issues keeping it where i wanted it that is why i tried the putty the next time neither as far as i know have failed yet and that was several years now... The putty ended up taking longer to hold and i dont think it was ever as secure as the liquid the liquid ended up with the laptop working like new.
the links i gave were for amazon in germany... 9.90 euro for a pair of imr you only really need 2 and a bypass for the other 2 cells you can run 3 safely 4 will burn out the motors.
Thanks for your very detailed feedback. Luckily I had a soldering iron and already took out all the junk from the inside of the blaster. Unfortunately your ebay seller doesn't ship to Germany I,ll try to solder the battery holder in place and feed the wires through the back of the stock mount, so that I'm able to close the original battery holder again. I will also mount the new battery holder with something more durable. I don't play that often (2-4 hours a week) so the alkalines should last relatively long. In fact 4 of the 6 batteries that I'm currently using are still the ones that I put in when I bought the blaster about 4 months ago, so they should still be cheaper and if I really need to I can still swap them for IMRs.
Have a good day!
and the same charger for li-ions works with imr.
another thing to do is to remove that white rubber flappy thing over the dart entrance i was getting jams with mine until i ripped that shit out.
Alright I just swapped the yellow wire over and double checked my motors, they are running super fast now. My original intention was to make the gun quieter, but seeing how powerful it is now... I kinda like the roar
and as for quiet the only quiet flywheel is a stopped flywheel look into motor breaking to make them stop faster then work on spin up time it should already be super short with what you have already done.
also since you got rm2 did you C-Mod them as in did you replace the stock low voltage brushes with the upgraded silver carbon brushes.
yes it just bypasses the circuit. That alone might fix the issue you are having. While in there i would also remove both thermal fuses as they bleed off some juice too. You also may want to switch to NiMH
I found this on another modding website "De-solder the left end of the yellow wire from where it is and solder it back on top of the red wire that comes in from the positive battery. This will disable the mechanism that causes the flywheels to be slow at first." -Rexar5 humanvszombies.org
is that basically a way of bypassing those diodes?
dont loan your custom
dont loan a diggery do
dont loan your rolex
Umm no alkaline can not provide more current than imr.
Did you even see what he said? Imr's cost 14 euro's where he lives for just a pack of 2. Then you also have to add a special charger to that.
I recommended 8 AA's because they are cheap and accessible. In Addition, the current from 8 AA"s is greater than 2 Imr's, which will lead to greater performance and less damage to the motors.
Alkaline can at most do 3 amps but most can only do 2.5A and they last 40 minutes tops so piss through those batteries like water and how long does it take to burn 14 euro in alkaline.
NiMh can do 5 amp discharges and last for 2.1 Ah so at 2 amp discharge you get maybe an hour.
IMR 10-60A depends on grade and size of cell most 14500 do 10A.
Now 8 AA in series is 12v the stock motors were rated for 6v we over volt them at a cost to life at a given voltage the stall current increases. It does not matter if it is an imr or if it is alkaline 12v will kill those motors just as well from either source.
charger does li-mn, NiMh, LiFE, li-ion, NiCD
those are inductors not resistors leave them be they help with the amperage drawn from the battery set look at bridging the diodes in the trigger area to remove the slow down while the pusher is not active instead.
Alright, i'll try popping the resistors off, and see how that goes
(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community )
another thing you can do is is rework the trigger area that is where the most restrictive part of the circuits are. The rapid strike has a pair of diodes that function as a limiter while the pusher is not active you can do the extra work and strip out most of this.
the falcon 130 motors look to be beastly...
My stryfe shoots 50-70ft flat with 2 imr and full rewire. With that many AA you might as well jump to imr you will go through that many AA while playing.
If I were you, I would boost the number of AA's to 8. This will lead to 12 volts, and a fair amount of current. From my experience, stryfe motors can handle a pretty decent amount of current, but totally fry if you get higher than 16 volts running through them.
Also, I would coat the flywheels in something. What I do is wrap them tightly in electrical tape in direction that the flywheels spin. After the wrap, I use a hair dryer on the highest setting to warm up the electrical tape. It is crucial that the tape is wrapped in a way that when the flywheels spin, the seam that the tape makes is not able to be peeled back.
but that simply is not true it will reduce the number of rechargeable for other devices that are used in your household that would make better use of the low amperage low voltage batteries... Also NiMH go bad just like every other chemistry you will burn them out quicker than the devices currently using them.
I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.
there is no getting around the fact that NiMH AA batteries are not the optimal cell for this application Li-MN lasts longer preforms better and is over all better served in this case and lipo is even better...
if you absolutely must use the 1.2v NiMH batteries then i recommend a motor swap rather than strapping more cells onto your rig...
plasma dash or mach dash they are meant to run off 3-4.5v that would be the better option vs strapping a battery holder and cutting the end plate in half in the gun and connecting the extra holder to extend the battery bay by 2
if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...
such as it would jam up frequently or it had poor distances
if it is jamming up it is likely the dart lock in which case open it pull out the orange spring loaded thing it serves only one purpose to keep the trigger from being pulled without a dart pushing it up.
if it is just getting poor distances that is somewhat normal do a power supply mod and perhaps rewire that will fix that.
if the motors are either not working going to need to figure out why and while your at it either swap them for ones that work or rewire it and fix the break and while your at it remove the locks...
which is why i said to stick with current designs no sense in trying to reinvent the wheel. current designs are very simple this would add un-needed complexity current designs 2 identical motors spin directly 2 wheels the opposite way of each other given the same power source they spin at the same velocity.
But the speed of the edge of the gear would be exactly the same on the small and large gears. Unless you can't find larger flywheels and simply must use the stock ones, there is no advantage to this system over using large flywheels. And if you desperately need to use stock flywheels and want to make them spin faster, you're better off buying faster motors than dealing with belts and pulleys and having to make sure they're tensioned properly, and aren't going to explode from the speeds.
This. I don't know of any really hardcore tests done, but I believe we've long since hit the peak flywheel velocity from single flywheel pairs.
You could design it to be driven by 1 motor but there will be another gear involved to get them spinning the right way.
not to mention the added mass will reduce the run time significantly that said you would need to maintain tension on the belts or bands making this blaster even heavier this would be a good thing for if we needed a high torque motor in this type of setup but we don't torque equates to how much mass can be tossed out rpm gives you how fast it will be going relative to how much kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart as in how much the dart slips on the flywheels as it moves through...
RPM doesn't directly influence fps, per say. It's the speed of the edge of the flywheel. Since your flywheels are connected by a belt, the edge speed is the same on both. This has no advantage over simply feeding the dart in the larger wheels in the back, and has the added disadvantage of extra friction in the system.
The faster the flywheels are spinning the faster the dart will end up how much momentum the dart picks up is dependent on the grip and slippage. Torque is a matter of how much the wheels will slow down when they are hit with the load of the dart...
When higher than normal current is drawn the protection shuts down the cell that cell that is not taking a charge either got discharged below or tripped the circuit. If you must go up to at least imr batteries they will be better off than the ultrafires which i would dispose of at this point or store them in a fire proof box. It sounds like the op over discharged them.
The protection PCB should keep them safe. That's kind of the entire reason it's there.
That said, ultrafires are very unfit for this purpose. A brief google search fails to find their official safe discharge rate. Similar li-ion cells are rated to about 1-2C, which means these can really only deliver about 1A continuous. Those motors ask for 2.8-3.8A at 2.4-3.0V. You're feeding them 11.1V, so they're actually probably drawing somewhere in the ballpark of 10A or more at times. This is for one motor, you're driving two, so double that. 20A is something that even unprotected ultrafire 14500s will never, ever be able to do unless you run something like 10 or 15 of them in parallel.
Ultrafires and their cousin trustfires have their place, but driving motors is not it. Feeding 11.1V to motors rated for 3 is not a good place to be either. Sure, the Tamiyas might be able to handle it, but I'd be very careful. What you really should do is get a 1S (lithium) or 3cell (nickel) battery pack that can deliver enough current.
So back to the beginning question. Are your batteries safe? I'd say probably, but you're abusing the hell out of them, and I'm really not sure how the protection PCB will react.
The best option would be a lipo 1s with the highest amperage he could find. Next a single purple efest 18650 30A. after that efest v2 14500 if possible 2 in parallel i have been toying with the idea of reworking my stryfe's battery box to have 2p2s efest 14500 v2 also i would recommend a voltage monitor addition to prevent over discharge in the future.
the v1 red efests do around 2 amps so make sure you get v2.
I made my own dummies out of paper and wire and wood glue...
i would not go for anyfire...
Hello Nerf Haven,
I have done all the basic mods to my strife (taken out electronic/mechanical locks and rewired) as well as replaced the stock motors with the Solarbotic's RM2s (This was a while ago, I realize now that it was a possible waste of money.)
I am now looking to buy the standard ultrafires/trustfires to up the voltage. I'm in Canada, so because of weird rules/lack of website support/Canadian import taxes that I'm definitely not an expert on, I (think) I need to order them from ebay.ca or amazon.ca. I have tried ordering a couple before but long story short I didn't receive them. There is also a lot of fake ultrafires that are being sold.
I came to ask my fellow Canadian's if they could give me a link(s) in order to buy 6 ultrafires/trustfires with a charger, and a dummy battery.
I would prefer for these to be tested sellers so I don't get scammed again. The number of batteries the charger supports doesn't concern me, I just need the correct batteries (size/voltage/capacity) in order to run in my stock AA battery tray.
Your help is very much appreciated.
amazon ships to canada
this site apparently stocks the but is oos right now http://www.canadaeju...ttery- Flat top
the op could run 3 in parallel to increase the amperage and capacity that could be pulled from the cells.
3-4 ultrafires is too much voltage and not enough current and will shorten the life of the motor. Run it on 1s IMR / Lipo, or a 3 or 4s NMH pack.
Also, unless someone posts chronograph numbers after coating the flywheels, I wouldn't mess with it at all. Anything you put on them will increase their weight which will increase the time it takes to spin up the motors. It will also decrease battery life from the increased load and will increase the amount of heat being generated in the motor which will shorten the life of the motor.
amazon is where i get my stuff they have the turnigy battery packs too they dont seem to have any efests other than 18650 tho. that is on the Canadian site...
Is there any Canadian here? Where can we get supply like batteries,chargers and maybe even motors online? Hobbyking is charging like 30$ for shipping and couldnt find a half decent canadian store...
Li-ion they use colbalt and some other materials they typically are the ones that vent and there are alot of counterfit batteries labled trustfire or ultrafire i recommend avoiding these batteries. most will handle 1A discharge some will handle up to 3-4A discharge.
I can't say much about the 130 form factor motors. However, here is some information that may help with the 14500 batteries.
What you have to understand is that none of the batteries are made by the companies selling them. Trustfire, ultrafire, tangsfire, etc., are all resellers of these cells. The original LiCo cells are manufactured by companies such as Samsung and Sanyo and they are not sold individually.
This leads to a few issues. We have no idea where those batteries are coming from and they may very well be recycled or quality control failures. And two, the claims of battery capacity are completely false. Regardless of what the reseller has printed on the label, the 14500's will carry about 400-600mah and the 18650's around 1600-1800mah. I have heard that the Efest brand uses a different chemistry and can supply higher currents, however I have not personally tested them. At least they don't lie about the capacity of the battery, anyway.
Efest IMR is Li-MN or lithium manganese these are safer they can still vent but tests have shown dead shorts only causing them to heat up to around 170F then quit and read 0 volts. They can be charged just fine in the same charger as li-ion and these can put out around 10A so they will be better for recovery and stall... I use these they are made by efest and i find 2 of them work great.
Li-fe these are supposedly safer yet and are more durable however this chemistry touts a lower voltage of 3.3 as such these can not be charged in a li-ion charger and must be charged in a charger that supports them. Tenergy makes these and they have been having issues with counterfeiting.
As for a charger i suggest a nitecore d2 or i2 the newest model should handle any type of battery you have they will even do Nicd or NIMH and li-fe
Also these batteries Lipo li-ion li-mn all 3 of these are considered discharged and in need of being recharged when they hit about 3.2 volts per cell this is still enough to spin the motors and fire just fine but continuing to drain them past this point will damage them. Li-ion when abused either over discharge or over charge tend to vent and cause fires.
To let me know when my batteries are low i put one of these in my stryfe http://www.amazon.co...voltage display
It has a calibration pot on it and i did calibrate mine to my multimeter and i hooked it up to the jam door switch so when i open the door it turns on. I did not cut a hole for it i just hot glued it to the inside of the plastic where i had room as it is bright enough to shine through the plastic it looks a bit fuzzy but is readable.
And for dummy batteries... you will need the following
Solid copper wire 16 gauge preferable i used 18
a AA battery for reference
a piece of paper standard printer paper is what i used
tape or elmers glue or wood glue (i recommend glue it makes for a more durable finished product.)
a pair of needle nose pliers
a pair of scissors
cut your self a piece of wire about 2 inches longer than a AA battery
now cut a strip of paper exactly as wide as a AA battery is long not out to the button on the positive side place wire at one end with a small bit hanging out the positive side and a longer bit hanging out the negative side start the roll and put some glue down as you roll the wire the paper will quickly make it the size of a AA battery when it reaches the size of a AA cut off the remainder of the paper and tape or hold while the glue sets. after the glue sets take the needle nose and curl the short bit of wire into a nub like the battery and coil the longer end tightly to form a plate at the negative end when done you should have a wire the size of a AA battery that fits and passes voltage and current over the wire. You could make the blank longer to be as long as 2AA end to end as well I find that a piece of printer paper length wise makes a AA battery when wrapped around 18 gauge solid core. You can get about 4 blanks out of one sheet.
as for the 2s
8 AA batteries adds alot of weight to it doesn't it but it sounds beast you might want to look into IMR 14500 batteries they are AA size and can handle more amperage output than a alkaline.
If you want to go the pack route then your really only limited by where you can fit it you could run a cable to a belt pouch with a 10,000 mAh battery in it.
And as for motors i would not bother until the stock ones burn up then look at rc racing motors hyper dash ect but keep in mind they are meant to run on 3v-6v not 7.4-12
the centrifugal force is spinning the tube off the wheels only better glue or thermal bonding would help.
Do you think if the flywheel had an indentation for the innertube section to sit inside it, that it would stay in place? I can get something like this made and test it relatively easily/cheaply.
it could there are 2 thing you don't want to do 1 knock them out of balance 2 make them heavier and thus slower to spin up.
That's why I was wondering about bed armour. Thick, rough and rubber based. Seems like it couldn't hurt...
the force of the dart leaving the barrels is derived mainly from the speed at which the fly wheels spin. Torque is if the flywheels keep spinning under load as well as the mass of load and resistance to slowing down. Grip is what allows a the dart to receive the kinetic energy if a dart was too slick and not enough grip the fly wheels will just rip it up as it leaves.
the question is with the materials used which produces more friction a glass smooth surface or a rougher surface.
The efest purple is 3.7v (recommended discharge not to exceed 2.5a)@ 3500mah, two of these would make 7.4v @ 3500mah with 32a / 64a discharge ( or 3.7V @ 7000mah) and cost $25.30
A 40C 2200mah 3S lipo is 11.1v with 80a / 100a discharge (apples /oranges)
OR...... a zippy compact 2S Lipo 2200mah 60C (which will fit in the RS) would be 7.4V 2200mah 132a / 154a and costs $13.28 which is approximately the cost of one efest purple sub C. The 2S would eat the efests for breakfast lunch and dinner and a snack and breakfast the next morning and leave you with almost enough cash to order the BSUK switch and wiring kit. I don't understand why any one would want to go that route. If the sub C's were that great then no RC guy would be running Lipos in their rigs. I have about 12 Nimh sub C packs in an ammo box that never seen the light of day once I plugged in my first lipo pack.
But, regarding the Op's usage and my assumption he already has the IMR batts... they are probably a good choice for just a quick juice up for the basement battle with the younger kids. Cost wise not efficient but to really harness the power of the lipos you will require additional upgrades which probably aren't in his best interest atm.
Last thought, the stock 22 or 23 awg wire can fuse at around 10amps so if you want to juice up in any regard then a re-wire is really recommended. Last thing anyone wants is a slizzling blaster or a battery shorting out and popping.
where did you pull your numbers from
i don't wish to quip back and forth on IMR vs li-po but they both have their places IMR has more uses than just nerf if you vape or have a high end flash lights just as lipo have uses in R/C vehicle and nerf. Yes li-po are the best choice but i prefer IMR.
looking back efest makes imr 26650 good up to 64A a 26650 is roughly the same around as a c cell but about 1 inch shorter than 2 c cells stacked so a spacer would need to be used.
btw a 26650 would be 3400mAh so 6800mAh of capacity beats the shit out of the 1000mAh 2s lipo and 30-64A vs 25A most 1000mAh lipo i have seen are 25c you take the c rating times the capacity to get the current dischargeable.
so a 26650 purple efest is roughly 50c.
the only nimh packs that can are ones like this http://www.summitrac...r3S6xoCpvTw_wcB
Does anyone here know what nimh aa's can discharge high enough for 180's?
but yes i should have clarified that i was talking about dropping the 180 in favor of motors that run well at stock voltages and used normal batteries or standard rechargeables. But honestly if the kid is as dumb as the op is making him out to be then he should not be handling the gun in the first place he will likely put his own eye out or mangle a finger.
those are li-ions that vent
Because they can vent and this is for a commission for a 12 year-old.
imr get hot that is it.
if you really need it to be drooling idiot proof drop the 180s get some plasma dash or tamyias and stick NiMh or alkalines
those are li-ion the ones that are typically dangerous it also states the actual capacity is 1700mAh I would not be shocked if the 30A rating is the burst draw and the sustained is much lower.
I just came across these: http://m.dx.com/p/us...ry-green-360333 and they seem to be too good to be true for the price.
we are talking a stryfe and 18650 size cells personally speaking there is only so much bulk i would want hanging on the outside and 2 18650 is about my limit for pistol config but i suppose 2 on either side of the mag would fit too.
Then again, you could always run more if you mount externally.
they would be running close to stock voltage with 2 of them within margin of error on a alkaleak/lithium primary assuming 1.6v on all 4... without a motor swap it likely would not net you much of a gain.
That is just about perfect except it might be too big to fit in a stryfe. Anything LiFePo4 is much safer than *fires. *fires are absolute sh1t.
where as a li-mn cell almost as safe as lifepo4 and 7.4-8.4v with 2 of them for 1.4-2.4v over volt on most motors.
Yea I do not want IMRs, I was just wondering if those would work. Maby I can find a better one.
li-ion are the dangerous ones and are what most trustfires are.
li-mn are imr and are safe
Lifepo4 safest most durable chemistry...
Li-ion and li-mn are charged in the same charger and my charger the nitecore D4 has an option to charge lifepo4
but those cells are only able to provide about 3 amps... no better than a trust fire. you would need to make a pack out of them for anything beyond flashlights or stock+ blasters.
Why would you buy cells when you can rescue them from laptop batteries? I have easily 60 18650 cells for very little investment.
IMR not typically used in laptop batteries is much better than any li-ion.
I cant be the only one that has devices that use the numbered cells. I have 2 flashlights that run on the 18650 3 that run on 14500 and a cell phone charger that takes 18650s
There isn't. People just don't want to buy the LiPo pack and the appropriate charger since it ends up being a bit more expensive. It's probably for the best since LiPo's are actually kind of unsafe for the average user who isn't taking care when using them. Individual cells have their place for that reason.
now i have a stryfe and a rapid strike that uses them...
i have 0 drones 0 remote control vehicles that use the li-po why should i invest in li-po when i already had the cells...