Dual Strikes are pretty rad, 3" of draw, longshot PT size and if you fill the voids, nice volume at low yields. Able to use up to 22" barrels (18" I'm finding the most accurate to fast ratio)  Fires mega's extremely well, makes good 1-hit kill backups for a shooter like me who usually picks people off with a singled blaster.  Also look into a good red dot, B style, $30 Wal-Mart or less, just stay clear of that NcStar crap.

 

Now even I want to go to war on one of these, I had no idea these were this available and this inexpensive.  See you at Armageddon.


http://www.ebay.com/...EQAAOSwKtlWj~z9




 

Hey bud, I want to help, what's your total draw and diameter of you Plunger tube?.  I am very good at barrel/plunger tube volume optimizations.

Also, it has a really weird lock/cam assembly below middle of the plunger draw.  I have misassembled that before and not been able to advance the turret. 

3 Times the darts needs 3 times the air and twice the force to go the same distance, or vice versa...
Basically...geting an airgun tank and making an absolver is a much better option than a messenger or a Triad...  or yea, use a Homemade....
 

I've just gotta ask because the #62 Hilman is one of my absolute favorite springs, how's the power?

That is cool looking, and the green is not repainted?

So a bolt carrier around the tee with a slot cutout to prime it....  But like you said, who needs it now that we have affordable boltsled replacements, once it becomes that much trouble.   Yea so it prys it, that's why they crack. I always try to keep the bolt as straight as possible, might be why I never broke one. 

There is more to this...let me get back to you, not that it matters but something else going on perhaps.

I tend to make things sound too easy sometimes, sorry...

I've never seen it happen, but I've heard of it happening and yes RoF is quite low.  My trick, was to shore up the barrel by laminating it into the barrel attachment adapter with Go2 glue and duct tape. Does it keep it from cracking by distributing the springload on the Plunger cup, possibly, time will tell, that's the idea anyways.  Because if that cup is free entirely to hit the PT, yea it's thin orange plastic, he's right, it will break.   The prime is not easy, I believe it's partially because bolt doesn't have a carrier, so priming it straight back is also an issue, but I want to develop one my next one I build. The last time I worked on a Singled longshot a couple months back, my customer didn't want one when I asked, I think it will make the prime way easier. 

Ahh another idea, the Dual Strike is on sale on Amazon Prime, Credit to Bob O' Bob for posting this on my Facebook forum.  I can do mad things with a Dual Strike...working on a writeup to post on here.


 

884, ahh thank you again. Yea that's it, I knew I was wrong.

Lets see, I wonder if I could make a spring guide for a [k26] to fit in there. Sounds like I need to get my hands on a [k26].  I do it all the time on my pistols.  Right now I have a Thunderbow Spring and a OMW 8 Kg longshot spring and I improvised by taping duct tape on the outer guide the OMW spring rests on and took the excess to center the spring.  Very similar to a #377 spring but .068 gauge.  

A [k26] and a stock longshot would be great for a Dual-Strike.



 

I wonder How we could find any method to this madness?  I recently got a 8"x1"x.091 gauge spring 25 coils at it was called a C-884 I believe (edit: corrected).  Now this I would throw in a sledge if I could....

Cartaya, it seems like Century spring company has their own item/stock number on their website, and then another number that they give when selling in stores. Based on those specs, though, it seems like it's CSC Stock #377. Does that look right to you?

 Oh why do they do that? Yea that's the spring, good eye man.  The number I was using is the one Orchard Supply and Hardware uses. 

Also thanks for the official stats, It's hard drawn...Good to know....

...As for the Nitefinder, standard draw sure, expanded draw by moving up the PT head (recommended) probably no.  Find this spring we're talking about and learn to cut springs.  If you need help, message me.



 

No, no and no.....

1. A Rival spring is 14 kg's, nice power but is too short for a Longshot and for the plunger to compress all the way to the head of the Plunger and the Rod catch to engage the trigger catch.  Aftermarket Longshot springs are typically 5.5" of free space and 1.3" of solid space, this one is 3.5".   However, a cutdown C-882 Century spring Company spring (7/8thsx8-1/2"x.072 wire gauge, 22 coils, I love this spring) works great cut down to 15 coils, squared and ends ground and has generally the same wire gauge, coil spacing and coil pitch as a rival spring.  Rival springs are good for other blasters however...like Firestrikes...

2. and 3.  I recently worked on my friends Singled longshot, where I used the C-882 spring as the center spring and a OMW 10Kg spring as the outer spring, but also used 5/8"ths of a Century C-528 spring (3/16thsx1"x.028" wire gauge).  A pen spring just isn't the right yield for a good longshot trigger catch spring.


--Cartaya
 

Coming back to this topic, I went out and thought about Ideas for a good Nerf rifle.

What I use in battle would not be for everyone and I only recommend it for those who personally like the design and can use it. I use a Longshot PT Star Shot carbine pistol (it's on the tip of everybodies tongue who know me I know....) with a Tasco 3-7x20mm scope and I have loaded it as high as 40 Kg's of springload, but find around 26-28Kg with longshot length springs and 1.5" of precompression is optimal.  I can get as high as 280 fps with a 250 fps average with Singapore darts and pretty nice accuracy and range.   

It's my own thing, I like it, It does what I want to do with the darts I use and the pistol version taken apart (pistol body, barrel, bow-wings) (I made 3 of them, Pistol, Carbine and AT2K turretable) fits in my glove box of my car.

But this is what I recommend you play around with, especially with the return of the ZSLS and the Elite (or not so elite) LS at toys R Us. Recently I worked on a Singled Longshot for a friend.  This is where you go simple, lose the boltsled, get a cpvc T, a piece of 1/2 cpvc hook it to a cpvs coupler and the Plunger setup and go to war.  With the availability of metal plungers and trigger catches, you can load that plunger system to the sky and get into the 300 fps range, but at 18 kg's you'll probably be in the 230-240 fps range, and that is great.  Get a 11" barrel, 12" if you're above 26 kg's. You can get pretty accurate shots with these and the trigger is nice and smooth.

But if you want even more power, Get yourself a 4B tank, a bike pump and a pressure gauge inline with the tank, and integrate that into a longshot/longstrike, hell what ever you want to use shell.  If you keep your pressures the same, the accuracy should be the same granted your darts are accurate.

Have fun.

--Cartaya

 

Try a brassed sharpfire with 15 coils off an ace #62 spring, If you use all the interlocking pieces of the blaster to your advantage in the build and use nice consistent dome/X-Dart/Pak-D Stefan darts, the results are very nice in terms of accuracy.  With this you got accuracy and some decent usable in battle speed, but you ain't gonna break any range records. You have to remove the locks and the arm that extends off the trigger in the blaster when you mod it also, but it works really well.

As for sight-rigs for Nerf blasters (and I mean a very accurate modded Nerf blaster, otherwise just use a Nerf pinpoint sight or aim naturally), I like reflex Red dots the most. You don't really need magnification and Aperture sights, yes I've used them on Feinwerkbau Pellet guns they are ok, but it's nice to put the sighting in one plane of focus.  They take a little getting used to, like finding the dot when you pick up and sight the blaster, but after awhile, it becomes second nature.  


--Cartaya

He used google translate on the post. The OP's posting about a nerf war somewhere in Sweden. 

That's what I thought too, but Google wouldn't let me use the translate function before I posted that, so I thought Langley might be up on his Languages, O well. 

Greetings frum zee-a United Stetes. I ipulugeeze-a fur buotchering yuour luonguoege-a, I'm using Guogle-a Truonslete-a. Iff yuour Ingleesh is uny guod, pleese-a idd a suommery ouff yuour pust in Ingleesh. Ingleesh is zee-a primery luonguoege-a ouff zees site-a. Guod luock vit yuour ver. Yuou cuon meke-a it iesier fur Svedeesh nerffers tu feend yuou by setting yuour cuountry und lucetiun inffurmetiun in yuour Nerff Hefee-a pruffeele-a. Yuou cuon ilsu seerch fur ouzeer Svedeesh nerffers using zees deta. Bork Bork Bork!

 

Hälsningar från USA. Jag ber om ursäkt för styck språk , jag använder Google Translate . Om din engelska är något bra , lägg till en sammanfattning av ditt inlägg på engelska. Engelska är det primära språket för denna webbplats.

Lycka till med din krig . Du kan göra det lättare för svenska nerfers att hitta dig genom att ställa in land och platsinformation i din Nerf Haven profil . Du kan också söka efter andra svenska nerfers använder dessa data .

You know Swedish Langley? that is cool, but what is he saying for us Americans?

Well that depends how strong you are, if your a kid, yes, if your a teen/adult, no.

I would like to see a review on it too. Many of my friends who use it overseas are over the moon about it.

Most people like 14 kg's usually it's a 1.125" x 5.5" X.100 gauge spring with about 8-10 coils if you order from an aftermarket shop like Oznerf or Black Tactical (warning terrible shipping prices from BT).  Personally I like the Xplorer 18 kg spring, Have you ever looked at a Home depot spring and wish it were longer but the rest the same?...well essentially, that's what Xplorer did, build one of the nicest springs I have seen in recent memory. I have been using it on a lot of blasters lately because It's like an Everbilt 7/8"x4"x.080 (14 coils) spring from Home depot except it's stretched to 5.25" with 14.5 coils total (7/8"x5.25"x.080").  This makes it so it has a steeper wire pitch and more power, 1.3" solid clearance, but cut down to 10 coils fits most Nerf blasters that can use a 7/8"ths spring. 

However, a good alternative is to use a Century Spring Company C-882 spring and cut it down to 6" (15 coils).  You got to cut the spring, square the spring, file the spring (some would argue it would work just fine open coil but I try to be smooth about it)  The yield is around 14 kg's but it has a little more precompression and also costs $5 at Orchard Supply and Hardware.  If you use the stock longshot spring with that, it's almost 18 kg's.

 

I own a Spirit of Xplorer Blaster that was upped to 21 kg's and the barrel cut down to 11" rather than 16".  I also use their darts. 

First off, Go with a longshot kit,not only because they have more potential but because lots of other people make parts for the Longshot (Like Roboman, Worker, OMW, Artifact). The breech has a nice rate of fire, but don't overload the mags, I load 15 rounds in a 18 round mag and the jamlessness Is worth it.  Also, if you confine the pin on the Eco Hybred boltsled to not fall out of position, it can handle most heavy springloads, but if you want to go mideval! Roboman makes a cooking sled and you can get the Fighter kitinstead. On the Eco Hybred boltsled I use a 4-40 case 5 hardened screw with a #6 washer and threadlock.  Nylon nuts would be better, but they are hard to find in 4-40 size. 

The power of a Xarrett is achievable with one of the longshot kits and a heavier springload. On a Centurion Xarrett kit, Xplorer is the only company that makes parts for it, if you do get one, get the cnc'd catch plate. 

--Cartaya

 
 

Ahh.... this was the event you were talking about.  Pretty good park?

It makes a good spring to fit between a retaliator/recon and the barrel assembly, reduces play somewhat. I used to do this a lot with my Retaliator builds as well as use a pice of hard velcrow as a gasket to get that barrel assembly staying in one place.

 

Even with the Barrel selector, with the Smart AR's it deceptively is underpowered.  But if you tape, fill and sand smooth the grooves In this case I used Krazy glue laminated 3M extreme packing tape, filled the remaining grooves with Krazy Glue and sanded it to 400 grit.  The rest is just a matter of troubleshooting all the airgaps while retaining the functionality of the selector switch, It's a lot like fixing a Super Soaker.  I am building another one, much more powerful, probably Hopper/Hopper, but as you can see, it is very powerful with very little yield if you give it enough modding attention.  You can trim that lower barrel and attach a barrel and coupler to it, or in my case just a 9/16ths piece of brass to use a 17/32nds brass barrel.


here's a test firing.

https://youtu.be/g4Rgc7Rotco



I used 1.1 gram FNJ's cut down to 1 -7/16ths, I only added an 8Kg OMW Longshot spring to the stock spring as a springload and added half of a Century C-528 as a trigger catch spring. I will bring this to the Next NIC war if anyone doubts my results, no big.  Even with all the dead space, it is amazing and still can fire the megas.  I plan to do a writeup soon on here, I promise.

--Cartaya

 

It was a cool little war, that last capture the N-Strike round I thought would never end and I'm glad that the weather was nice too.  Maids are hard to come by

40-50, sometimes more.  It's a pretty bitching war.

No didn't have a camera, it was a small war, nice day, first war out I played since I was sick for a month.  I'll try to shoot some footage next time.  Scored a couple of 2K's from Dom and an original Sharpshooter.  Also got my friends singled Longshot up and he was at the war (Kyle).
 
Found an oval dent in my 12" brass barrel for my Carbine pistol, good thing it's couplered.  Didn't happen at the war...but would explain a lot.

 

No worries, I'm always hungover, Drinking Johnnie Walker Black at the moment, I'm kind of a high functioning drinker  ,  Have fun tomorrow, have fun tonight bud, see ya at the war.

Oh and that Pistol spalt you gave me is cooking, took out the air splitter, put in a precomp spacer and it cooks, no coupler mods yet, But I like it!  You can use my darts for the war if all else fails, I PMed Nate on FB and asked him about the domes because I want to make sure SCUN is involved, especially in decisions like that which could change gameplay or safety.

Gluedomes? Well, personally I wouldn't have a problem, no pain, no gain. But I have to concede with Nate, Apollo and Ice9's judgment on this one.  Soft Silicone, no problem for sure.  Also Try X-darts, they are badass, I know the bin is usually on my table making it appear they are just for my use, but they actually are not, I just ask that I get back all we find at the end of the day.

Also, I am so glad you're going to show, be sure to bring the rockets as we are playing yet another game of Ding and in the HvZvH round, they will be zed killers (15 seconds or more out of stun) but only one per team will be allowed if we have at least 2.

 

Going.

The nipple Stefan darts from China look interesting, but they have been pulled for some reason, they look a lot better than the ACC darts, here's their FB page...
https://www.facebook...57733731152808/


 

February

20th [Glendora, CA] P.A.T,RIOT (People Are Tired, RIOT) 



 

This ought to be a really great game, nice time of the year to play, not too hot/cold.  The games I'm gonna try is a Version of CTF where the player who grabs the flag (N-Strike Era blaster) has to defend himself with only that till he captures the flag.  Also a Version of HvZvH where the perimeter sidewalk (this school has a nice one) is a safe zone but you can't shoot zeds while in it and there is another team you have to kill, killing other team wins.

Other than that, usual fun, bring your blasters, shoot the shit, get some trigger-time.

--Cartaya



 

I love what you did with the coupler on this, very nice. Ever give a Century C-882 a look? It is 7/8"X8.5"X.072 wire gauge and 22 active coils.  It has a thinner gauge than an Everbilt spring but less coils per inch so it is a higher yield.  If you cut it to 12 coils, ton's of precompression, around 14 Kg's and should fit in a Firestrike.  Give It a shot, I also use a Catch spring out of the Everbilt small spring variety pack to go well beyond 14 Kg's, give them a try, stock catch springs just aren't enough.

Oh, and I voted for you by the way.


 

Superstock:  (Velocities given for modded blasters only)

*Retaliator with an 8kg spring, Xplorer plunger, OMW aluminum sled, 100-115 fps
*Crimsonstrike Recon, OMW stage 2 metal parts kit, 6kg's, 75-90 fps
*Stock Rotofury
*Stock Rival Apollo
*Sonic Blue Magnus modded with double coil 7.5kg spring array, 85-95 fps
*Stock AS-10 Magstrike (Yellow)

*Longshot Plunger Tubed Pistols described in the NIC section, Firestrike or Sharpfire if game organizer wants me to be at a lower velocity ceiling below 200 fps.  But in local Super Stock wars, it's understood I play the long range player and most Event organizers and players and are fine with it as I maintain distance from opponents or will drop high yield pistols if another supertock player gets close and flip to the Retaliator.

NIC: 
Primaries
*An AT2K with removable Turret, switchable with 17/32nds brass barrels of choice. 245fps with turret, up to 290 fps singled @ 7 pumps
*2 Longshot Plunger tubed pistols based off the Nerf Rebelle Star-Shot couplered to speedload 17/32nd brass barrels, 19 Kg's and 28 Kg's, 215-230 and 230-260 fps Respectfully
*A Longshot plunger tubed Pistol, same as the above 2, except with a Carbine stock and a Tasco 2x7x20mm scope couplered to accept 17/32nd brass barrels, 32kg's, 240-270 fps

Secondaries and backups:
*An Xplorer Longshot, 21 kg's (18 Kg Xplorer and stock spring), Hybred boltsled, V5 breech, shotgun grip, 11" barrel, ZS shell, 190-215 fps
*A modded Bigshock, 21 Kg's, 140-170 fps
*A Sealed Breech Sharpfire, 21 kg's, 160-185 fps
*A brass barreled Firestrike, gold, Fixed barrel, 21 Kg's 160-180 fps
 
This loadout is made for long range assault and fortification of specific choke points in battle.  The Longshot plunger tubed pistols are my blasters of choice, one draw, one load, one fire I practice with them everyday and with Singapore darts they can just sail a dart well out of range of a typical opponent outside of a player with a 4B or a Titan tank based airblaster, with normal felt tipped slugs, they behave like a typical modded crossbow.  The Recon or Retaliator is more for close range and I'm going more for reliability than speed. They usually are on a magnetic clip holster, it's easy to draw is for if anyone comes within 100"-70" of me and tries to hit me with a blaster that is either hoppered or mag-fed, usually loaded with FvJ darts.  The Xplorer Longshot usually sits either at my fall back point or the point I am trying to hold.  It is usually used to lay down suppressive fire.  Often, I'll throw it to a teammate to help defend me or because his loadout just sucks.  Sharpfire, BaJ and Firestrike are usually used as backup single shot blasters, they have saved me more times than I can count.

Pro's
*Excellent, accurate long range attack effective in excess 60 yards with ease.
*Primary blaster is a fairly quiet, small, light pistol of holy terror! 
*A Decent close range backup.
*A holster system that is magnetic quick-drawable.
*Cargo shorts make for excellent stefan dart storage.
*Typically carrying 4 blasters at any time, won't lose for the lack of shooting back.


Con's
*Low RoF, not a problem however if your shot placement is good.
*Backup Mag-fed blaster is slower than typically what blaster is shooting at me at close range.
*Getting to a backup blaster in time is sometimes difficult if rushed.
*Darts for the Xplorer Longshot need to be 1-7/16ths OAL or it won't fit in the mags, picking up random ammo off the ground won't work. 
*Longshots Pistols cannot be hoppered (Theroetically) as they only use 66 cc's of volume and 2 1/3" of draw.  


 




 

SCUN group (FB group https://www.facebook...oups/SCUNGROUP/) has wars, at least 5-6 a year usually a Prep war for Armageddon, Armageddon, A war after that sometime in July or August, a Haloween war, a Christmas war.  Yes it's a NIC group, but power is not everything, you have to bring some mad powered blaster to a SCUN war is a misconception shared amogst a lot of So-Cal Nerf leagues. Last war Ice Nine (admin on Nerfhaven) was hosting had some really great stock velocity games in between rounds where high powered blasters were allowed that were a ton of fun.  Great group, great players Usually hosted in the Glendora area, but sometimes Long beach too.  Also look at the 2016 Nerf wars sure to be listed on Nerfhaven at some point.

Last year was pretty dead for wars, Norwalk has been dead since Aaron Conception left, Basic Nerf has been on hiatus and Aaron Kemp of the Beach Cities Nerf and airsoft alliance was gonna do a war, but never did.  I tried to do a few wars, some were successful, but even with free pizza it was hard to get people motivated.

--Cartaya




 

The dart sensor, yea.....

Also, tip for the future, with the spring out and manually, by hand with the Plunger tube and Plunger head, does it takes a considerable amount of effort to pull? If so you have too much Teflon tape under the o ring defeating the purpose, creating too much drag upon firing. if you can get a perfect seal with little or no drag, it will be even better.
 

It was a nice war......

* Weather was outstandingly beautiful, calm before a brief Southern California rainstorm.
* I thought you played just fine, Apocalypticamerican, you played very solid and if you were a total Noob, you would have used Ultrafires, not a LiPo on that Stryfe. 
* Sorry I nailed you in the nads Domm, I know where your aiming at me next war we play 
* The kid who brought the Orange EAT and scored all those hits in Ding at once (10 I believe, I got 1, and Dom scored with the Ultimator for the win), also worth mentioning.
* My first AT2K battle ever, and I absolutely love mine, Can't wait to show Roboman.
* I have grown more in S.C.U.N than any other Nerf league, but I still need to work on some stuff. 

As usual, a great war from a solid group of NIC players.