- → Duke Wintermaul's Content
Duke Wintermaul's Content
There have been 354 items by Duke Wintermaul (Search limited from 13-July 93)
**What you need**: Stock Triad, Drill, 9/32 bit, 3/32 bit, silicone grease, spring, flat & phillips head screwdriver, hands.
**What you do**: Take your Triad, admire its stock form, and prepare for evolution.
Unscrew the four Philips on the bottom gray baseplate. Remove plunger assembly.
Unscrew the single philips on top of the plunger head.
This allows you to remove the stock spring and put in your new spring.
I used a Omw Vulcan 5kg, on the left, and you can buy them here http://www.orangemod..._p/spg-vc1.htm.
At this time, please drill four 3/32 holes in the gray baseplate. Like so, this helps diffuse the slight vacuum created when the plunger depresses and fires.
Okay, so the drill is out. Change to the 9/32 bit. Drill a hole dead center in the back of the Triad. Unscrew.
Now you need your flathead. Simply pry the back plate off.
Remove said plate, now we see the AR assembly. It is comprised of white and blue pegs. Remove the blue so it looks like this.
Okay, good. Now put the AR assembly back in and screw it tight. At this point, everything is done and its time for reassembly. Before that though, grease on up the plungerhead.
Its O-ring makes a great seal, so there is no need for replacement; grease works just fine.
When reattaching the base plate, **do not** over tighten. It is very easy to stress/crack the screwports.
Performance is unaffected, but it looks sloppy.
Ta Daa! You're Tri-ad evolved!
Now that the Tri-ad is complete, lets take a look at the Rampage.
What you need: Drill, 3/8 bit, 7/32 bit, Hacksaw (dremel w/ cutting bit or Grinders wheel), Silicone grease, springs, Epoxy putty, needlenose pliers, screwdriver, soldering iron, sand paper, water.
what you do: Lets get some internal mod's going on the Rampage. Completely unscrew it, there are no hidden screws. Flay the blaster open.
The first thing were going to do is remove the AR.
Some people use hammer's and screwdrivers to crack it in half, i do a two stage drilling process. Drill strait through with the 7/32 bit. Some pieces will fall out, if they dont use needlenose pliers to remove all lose pieces. Also use these pliers to remove the AR spring, this will cause havoc with the larger bit.
Switch to the 3/8 bit and drill through again. This should completely remove the AR.
Cool, now lets take some pesky locks out. See these locks?
Take off the orange plate to remove them, its a simple pressure peg system. And this one?
Take em' out. I don't know what they do, but locks are bad! Put the orange plate back on, here are the locks we removed.
Okay, lets put it all together again. Reassemble, but be sure to exclude the spring. Add some silicone grease to the boltsled if desired, the elite stock seal is amazing. One you have the blaster shells rescrewed, its time to add the spring.
This is a three step process, first slightly spread the shell in the back.
Insert the first coil of the spring.
Apply light pressure and the spring should insert all the way to its last coil.
Simply twist in the direction the spring goes, and presto!
Screw the endcap back on.
Now the fun begins.
Take the front grip and screw it together. Now take a saw and lob it off as shown.
Now you need to trim the back edge of the grip, remove all the plastic except the peg that holds the metal prime bar.
I shaved this peg down slightly, but it's still firm.
You can accomplish this with a grinders wheel, which i used for the original one i made. I did it this time with an old soldering iron to melt the plastic.
Now shave down the top of the triad. Remove those funky 'sights' and carve down the back portion. Don't worry, this wont hurt the internals. Rough up both the grip and triad top with sand paper. Now rinse these parts with water and dry completely.
Cool, place the grip back on the rampage and screw it in. Now balance the rampage on its back so it's level, youll have to use some supports, i used the cut off front grip.
Mix some putty, not too much, and place it on the triad as seen.
Now press firmly to the pump grip and make sure its centered!
In half an hour, mix up somemore putty to press into the rather large gap you see. This fills the gap and also strengthens the bond. Half an hour later, the integration is finished!
The Tri-ad ranges in this video are without the new spring. This video is of my original Rampage + Tri-ad, and this guide follows the making of my second one.
Here's a video all about this blaster. Pay no attention to me attempting to pawn it.
RESPONSE TO GRIEVER 2112
Since im a FNG (aka 2nd class citizen) i cant respond to you normally.
I have had no problems with the integrity of the integration, i've put a few hundred rounds through the rampage and the Tri-ad is super stable.
Yes you would have to crack off the Tri-ad to open the rampage. This is it's one design flaw, I have a few idea's in the works on how to make it removable yet sturdy enough for rigorous use. If i ever make another one, which i probably will, i'll make it removable.
But the integration costs $5, so its really not a huge deal to crack it off and redo.
Hopefully i'll make an appearance or two in future Ohio wars.
About your integration: apparently epoxy putty works well for you, but I would suggest using epoxy or J-B Weld for the initial bond, because epoxy putty doesn't grab onto things nearly as well as epoxy does.
The Tri-ad top is rough and oddly shaped enough for the putty to grab too.
The bottom the the cutoff grip is also full of crevasses and holes that the putty loves to love.
Epoxy is stronger on a flat to flat bond, but the putty has enough handholds here to do just fine.
And yea Az, it was basically copypasta with some image fixes.
What you need: Needlenose pliers, wire cutters, soldering iron, solder, Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, superglue, hotglue gun, drill & 13/64 bit, old soldering iron, duct tape, replacement motors, laser diode, switch, 2 AAA battery holder, razor blade.
Before opening up your Stryfe, we need to drill a hole. See this circle on the front of the stock stryfe? The picture is absolute shite, but its there.
Get a drill bit that's one size smaller than your laser diode. For mine, it was a 13/64 bit.
Drill out the circle from earlier. Again, my camera had trouble focusing. The pictures get better, i promise.
Now we open the Stryfe. Here is it completely stock.
Lock removal time. First up is the electrical magazine lock.
Unscrew the orange plate. You will need to pull the trigger to remove it, watch out for the acceleration mechanical lock, its time will come. Remove both the electric switch and the orange bit pictured below.
Screw back on the orange plate.
Okay acceleration lock, i should have removed you first so now im angry.
Unscrew the orange plate and remove the mechanical lock only so it looks like this.
Put the plate back on. Keep the electrical switch in there, we might need it later.
Now we turn our gaze to the thermistor on the battery pack.
Before unscrewing it, take the wire cutters and cut just below the yellow m&m. Like so.
Okay, now we can remove it.
The dart check lock. I recommend leaving it in, it really helps when you want your blaster to jam up during normal use. A real life saver. Take this worthless piece of plastic out.
At this time go ahead and remove the wire cover pictured below. Hang onto it, were going to be putting it back in later.
Okay, now we need to get those extra electric lock out. Start by cutting the red wire of the Jam door lock.
Cool, now cut the blue wire on the clip check lock.
We also need to remove the wires form the thermistor, snip the black wire.
Cool, set those off to the side. Barry, i heard we're going to be replacing the motors? That's right other Barry, so unscrew the flywheel cage. There are four screws, they are the same size as the shell screws, except a little longer. Make a note of that.
Okay, here are the motors. Barry, you had the soldering iron heating up right? Yes i did other Barry, i take initiative. Good thinking Barry, unsolder the black and red wires from the motors.
Already done other Barry.
Good, good. Remove the two black rubber motor holders. Save them, they're going back in. Now open the flywheel cage. Its a four pressure peg system, just press them in one at a time and it should open.
So time to remove the flywheel. Get out the flathead screwdriver. Slip it under and through the other side of the wheel. Place your thumb atop the wheel and slowly pry up. Don't try and rip it off now, change the placement of the driver to the other side. This is a game of patience, just do it slow and you'll be fine.
Here are the flywheels. The top one is slightly cracked, as you can see. Simply apply light super glue and ittl be good as new; but next time don't fuck it up, Barry.
Now we coat the wheels. You don't need to do this, so skip this step if you want to. Coating the wheels allows them to grip the darts better, in theory. I've never tested it, so whatever. I coat my wheels in duct tape. You can use Plastidip, but that will wear off after awhile. My method is permanent, and that's why i use it. Rip a strip of tape in half, now carefully line up the clean edge to either edge of the wheel. Once its wrapped, take a razor blade and cut where the tape makes on complete revolution.
Now take the blade and cut away the excess.
Good, now do the other one. Apply a light coat of superglue to the seam of the tape. Set the wheels aside to dry.
Now grab our new motors. We'll need to connect them together somehow, so i used the extra orange wire that we cut out of the stryfe earlier. Simply cut it in half, strip both ends, and remove some insulation in the middle.
simply connect them in the standard configuration, the positive wire is on the leads closer to the 'barrel' end. Just do a quick solder job, and were good.
Don't forget to put the black rubber holders back on.
Set the cage off to the side, were waiting on our flywheels to dry. Did somebody say Laser? Okay, fine, we'll put a laser in. But i'm not happy about it. Glue your AAA holder as seen to the bottom of the jam door. Hot glue works great.
My switch is 8mm by 11mm, so i drew a box that size and carefully cut it out with an old soldering iron. I forgot to take a picture, so here's one of it after i wired up the switch. Just as good i suppose, except the quality is awful...
And here's what it looks like once the switch is in place.
Cool, cool. What now? Oh, the diode. Remember that hole we drilled earlier?
Lets put it there.
You will need to secure the rail attachment, seeing as we destroyed the back portion of it. Simply lay down some hotglue and pluck it in. Don't put the diode in until its dry, we need it to be unimpeded.
Go ahead and screw that front shell portion together. If you would like, attach longer leads to the diode before.
But the leads stick out enough, so we can just work with them here. Look at the quality on that background fabric. I cannot get this camera to focus...
Okay, everything's in place. The battery holders leads should be long enough to reach the diode and switch. If not, simply solder on some extra wire to extend them. Wire it up like the picture below, get some spare wire to run from the switch to the diode.
Run the wiring inside the wire slot for the motors, and then under the flywheel cage to the diode. Your flywheels should be dry, so reassemble the cage. If your having trouble putting the flywheels on the motor shaft, take a hammer and tap the top bit down lightly until it is flush with the shaft. Screw the cage back in, running the wires inside the wire slot.
Replace the orange rail on top of our new wires. It will take some force to get it down, but that's okay. Please note where i have the battery holder leads connecting to our assembly. If you try and run them under the flywheel cage, you can rip them out of the holder and ruin the whole thing.
Lets take a look at the other end of the blaster. Loose wires! Oh noes! We have a black, a red, and a blue.
The black gets connected to the battery tray.
The blue and red get connected together. Be sure to run the blue wire under the pusher rod. This is it's stock location so everything should be fine.
To keep these wires out of the way, there are two blue plastic pegs in the shell that i like to think were put there special for me. Place your wires between them.
Just melt those two pegs together.
Wow, that's a nice, clean, short circuit were running there. Looks good. Go ahead and slap some batteries in, make sure it runs. If not, take a good hard look at all the work you did. Mine works fine, so yours should too.
Before we screw the shell back together, we need to free some room on the other side of the shell for our switch. See this round peg?
Cut it out. I used my old soldering iron. If your not sure what peg i'm talking about, perhaps its absence in this next picture will make it clear.
So, here's a story. I purchased a Voltmeter a few weeks ago. It did not arrive by the date i was quoted, so gave it a few days. Still nothing, i contacted the company, and said it has not arrived. They issue me a full refund, so i figure it's not showing up. "Damn," i think "I really wanted it. Oh well, i got my money back." That was that, so i made this write up. Yesterday, i get a package. Lo and behold, my Voltmeter! Lets install it, shall we?
Please snip off the wings, i tried to use them trust me, just snip them off.
Where should we put it?
Can it really be that easy? Yes, yes it can. Please note, i do not use stocks with my stryfe's. If you would like to find a different place to put it, by all means. However, it does look sweet glowing underneath a Retaliator stock. Draw the outline of the meter,
And cut it out. I used an old soldering iron to melt the plastic, then cleaned it up with a razor. It turned out great, and it was easy. So were going to need to remove some pegs from the inside. The two pegs that we can't see through need to be removed. You can see where i cut out the rectangle on the back,but the pegs are holding it in.
Here they are removed. An old soldering iron is your best friend.
Do the same on the other side, here's a before shot. Be sure to remove the return spring.
Of course, we need to wire a switch into it. Right here looks good. As a note, this is the empty side of the shell, and this location is right next to the switch on the other side of the shell, in case your confused.
I did not do any measuring, i just went at it. My switch is 8mm by 11mm, so the hole will be different depending on your dimensions. Again, soldering iron and razor to clean it up.
So we need to mount our voltmeter. A small amount of Epoxy putty will work dreams. Be sure to install it right side up!
Wait for half an hour. Go look around nerf haven for a bit. I recommend the Modification and Paintjob thread, some cool shit. I'm always in awe of Eik's paint.
Now its wire time.
The red is from the voltmeter, the yellow is a spare bit of wire. You'll need that. Here's a quick shot of what we have right now, loose black and loose yellow.
So hold your two half's together kinda like this. As you can see, the yellow gets connected to the positive terminal, and the black goes to negative. Do that now.
I forgot to take a picture, but put your return spring back on the middle peg. This does not hinder firing performance, but if you would like a faster return just shorten the spring a bit.
So here's a tricky part, hold the two half's inches away from each other, like your going to put them together. Put a gollop of hot glue on the voltmeter's side of the shell, right in the middle of the wires. Lick your finger, and press the wires into it. This will keep them from interfering with the firing mech.
Alright, put your blaster back together.
Your voltmeter will now let you know when it's time to change your batteries! Don't forget about the switch! Here's a shot of mine on, the display is blue so my camera is having a hard time with it. I ordered red, but it was free so no complaints.
And here's your new switch bank!
If you used the right size drill bit, your laser should be sighted in fairly well. If not, spend some time with a clip of darts, some superglue, and a wall. I recommend Locktite, because it has a very short drying time. Place glue around the diode, fire a few shots, hold the laser in place with your finger. Fire a few more shots, make sure its sighted in, and don't move that finger.
If you need any more details, let me know.
Here are the motors i used, thanks 0reo.
The battery tray, switches, and diodes.
This entire mod is probably covered in Coop's Strayven guide, minus the laser, so to keep this as original as possible (not even a little bit) i have yet to read his guide. I guess i'll go do that now.
Sorry for the random links, after adding the Voltmeter i couldn't have that many pictures. I moved as much as i could to the post above, but sacrifices must be made.
Btw, this FNG group is amazing. I used my entire day's posts for one write up. I hope your happy nerfhaven, i feel like a slave...
EXTRA EDIT FOR ICEDRAGOON
FNG and all...
It doesn't impede the function at all. Not even a little bit.
Here's a video i made when i first did this mod, i've used this blaster many times and have never had a problem with the firing and feeding action.
Seems like a decent Stryfe writeup.
I would be much more impressed if your camera happens to have a proper Macro setting and you used nicer lighting.
Yea, the pictures could be better. I'm not entirely sure what went wrong with my camera, or maybe it was just me.
but i figure if your following this guide and have the Stryfe right in front of you, these mediocre pictures are more than sufficient to illustrate what you need to do.
Can someone say yoink?
But seriously, good write-up. A little better than mine because of the mechanical removals. I would have done that too, but I had already done all of the lock removal and thrown them away before I made this.
But good job.
Not to sound harsh, but your circuitry was rather odd. You added wiring that frankly did not need to be there.
I added the green wire between the blue and red because the they normally didn't reach each other and have the length to go where they needed.
That's exactly my point, these two wires were long enough to reach each other. And thanks to taking advantage of pre-molded shell pegs they stay out of the way nicely.
I had just began working on putting a laser site into one of my nerf guns but was buying $3 laser pointers and $2 switched at radio shack.
I'm glad it helped you.
From the links i posted an entire laser, diode, switch, battery pack, costs less than $1.
It may be worth it in the future to try and place the laser unit behind the hole instead of in front of it/inside it. That way it is still possible to attach faux barrels and such.
It would be nigh impossible to sight the laser in if you put it far enough back to accommodate a barrel extension. I'm very anti-barrel, all they do is hurt range and i personally think barrels on stryfes look ridiculous.
But yes, if you like barrels play around with it a bit.
I also added a section on a Voltmeter, its basic stuff but i hope it helps.
Maybe 3 trust fires is too much? Maybe it is intended to run at stock voltage or a little more?
The forward voltage rate is 9volts. MAV seems to be running them at recommended voltage, so i'm not sure whats happening for him.
I've burned two of these motors with 4s 14500 cells, but that was a controlled test to see what they could take and to know the warning signs. I normally run them on 3s 14500 cells, and have had no malfunctions. My blasters have not gone through a whole lot of use, so perhaps that's a factor. I'm looking for some higher quality Tamiya's to do some testing, but right now i have nothing definitive to say. If my motor's do shred, i'll be replacing them and running them on 2s 14500 cells to see how that works out.
I'm slowly losing faith in these motors as i continually hear horror stories of blasted and bombarded melted shreds coming from their use.
Mav13, it seems like more expensive higher quality motors are a better option.
O.o BG guys?!?!
So the war is over, had lots of fun. Want to thank everyone, especially the Bowling Green guys for coming, 10:00 am till 7:30 pm, that's a long day...lol and you guys still have miles to go before you get home.
I've been in BG for the past few months.
Pretty damn good! How does paying $20 for the whole box sound?
Even better! So, here's the scoop. A limited number of U.S. Targets received LIMITED shipments of the EAT. These EAT's are not meant to hit the shelves until June 12th. I'm not speculating, a Target Store Manager told me that. She also said that's why i couldn't buy them, luckily the boxing boy in housewares didn't know that. So here's how you get your very own EAT! Here is a link to the Target Product search page. Look at the HTML code, the last 5 characters are a postal code. Replace those characters with your personal postal code. Now you know which stores have these things, and how close they are to you! Write down the DPCI code, 087-11-0118, and head to Target! The DPCI code is an inventory code that allows employees to access all the information about that item, if they have it, where it is, how much it is, and who else has them. Find an employee with one of those handheld scanners, and ask them to check and see if they have any in stock. Of course they do, we already know that! Better to act coy though.
These are priced at $5.98 because they are under the old AT DPCI code. Target got sloppy and decided to simply update the old AT info with the new EAT, and the old AT code still has the price slash from the last sale! However, because the launch date is June 12th, and store managers don't give the order to stock them on the shelves, they figured these things would be safe in the back storeroom... until clever customers get unwitting employes to fetch them!
I've hear some rumors, that with this leak corporate office is scrambling to change the DPCI code and mark them at the full $19.99. Even if they do change the price, you can still get one early.
Go to Target!
The SKU number is valid, but the price no longer is. I got two of them, but they were 20 bucks per blaster. Beware, they are available, but the price is now at full retail.
It all depends on location. California got leaked really hard, they were shut down in some locations late yesterday.
I'm glad some fellow modders got a hold of these things.
Razor blade, drill, 3/8 & 3/32 & 13/64 bits, size 0 Philips screw driver, an upgrade spring.
What we do,
Take our stock alpha trooper
and unscrew it. Remove the slide pump first, and it reveals four hidden screws.
Go ahead and take out the spring. We wont be needing it. now also remove the plunger tube and catch plate. Hang onto them, they will be used again.
Here's a quick shot of the internal workings.
Were going to remove the Black & White circled locks. The black is actually the magazine lock and jam door lock all in one. The white is designed to catch on the boltsled for whatever reason. Take them out.
Okay, now we remove the boltsled. The metal prime bar is a bit tricky to remove. We would unscrew the barrel and remove that whole front section, but with some puzzle like maneuvering we can get the sled out no problem. So, lets drill out that AR.
To do this, i use a three step drilling process. I take my smallest bit, and drill a lead hole. Then i swap to the middle bit, widen and deepen that hole. Finally, i drill the whole assembly out with a bit just smaller than the inside circumference of the chamber. The sizes i used were 3/8, 3/32, and 13/64.
So, that was easy. Now put all the internals back in. Like so.
Go ahead and screw it back together. Leave the orange endcap and prime slide off, now its time to add the spring. I'm putting an OMW 5kg Retaliator/Rampage (and now EAT!) spring in. You can buy them here. Slightly spread the back plate apart, and fit the first coil inside.
Just press on the spring, and when it gets to the last coil simply screw it in following the coils.
Screw the endcap back on.
If you've slamfired the EAT stock you've noticed the odd trapezoid pattern on the pump.
Don't they hurt your fingers after a bit? Me too, lets grind those off. I happen to have a grinders wheel downstairs, so i used that. You can use a dremel with appropriate bit, or some sandpaper and elbow grease.
It looks a tad sloppy, but it feels so nice. Screw the pump grip back on.
Were done right? Not quite. I messed up and left this peg on my boltsled.
Just cut it off with a razor blade.
Hopefully you read this before you do all the steps, and you can remove this peg when you take out the boltsled. But this is the order i did it in, and it really doesn't matter.
There you have it! A brand new slaughter machine! This thing has some power behind it, i am impressed.
A big shoutout to TurokMakto for his chronograph data. This EAT is propelling darts 27fps faster than stock, on average.
This guide covers the basics, everything you need to know to make your EAT perform like a champ. I have a few other misc. mods planned, namely a laser, but i wanted to get this up here for all to see.
NerfHaven exclusive giveaway! It seems some of us have gotten an EAT, or multiples, whilst the rest of NerfHaven silently waits for the release date. Well, wait no longer! It's a simple giveaway, i will be picking a winner 5/15/2013 at 20:00Zulu. How do you enter? Reply to this topic once. That's it. I will be picking the 'best' submission in five days. What should you post? Ascii art, love poems about me, why you nerf hardcore, whatever.
Double posters will not be considered.
Also, here is a quick list i've compiled of NerfHaven users who already have an EAT, and thus are barred from the giveaway.
Funky Mutha Facko
As an added restriction, anyone identifying with the group's Ambassador/Moderator/Contributor/Pleb will not be eligible. FNG's Welcome!
As an end note, should you have a legitimate question PM me. If you piss me off with PM's, you will not be receiving an EAT. I am giving away more than one, the exact number is tbd.
Edit: International shipping is provided by the winner. First place gets free US shipping. Others... to be determined.
A question was raised about editing submissions, I will be reading this entire thread on the 15th. The latest edit of your submission will be considered.
Changed the end time to twenty hundred zulu.
Since were showing off EAT's. Same one that's in my mod guide, but with custom grip and 6-rd GITD clip.
The assault handle is 100% mechanically fastened. I need to make a run to the hardware store for thinner metal fasteners, right now i'm using two 20pence pieces.
In first place is Asamere, with his lovely poem recanting absolutely nothing! He is receiving an Elite Alpha Trooper, completely free!
And bringing up the rear is Guitarzan, for his mention of Warcraft Three! However, he goofed and called Wintermaul a tower defense. Thus, he pays shipping.
Both items are being shipped tomorrow morning 9am! I apologize to anyone who did not submit an entry due to the mods closing the forum. I was 'suggested' to redo the giveaway with stricter parameters, but i think you guys did just fine!
My jamdoor is occupied at the moment, and always will be, so a different location would be better.
I'm waiting for your tests, as i'm curious as to how much this is needed. Whats the RPM range with the min and max settings? How much of an improvement can this be? Does it reduce torque?
Lots of question's, but i like it.
Has anybody figured out a good alternative to the horrid retail three pack of darts? Who even wants the suction heads, so without that its around $6 an arrow. Surely we can create a homemade arrow for far cheaper.
As anybody here started on this faithful quest? If so, the secrets of your fletcher's trade would bring toy to us all.
If not, spit balled ideas are a welcome sight.
MHA is by far the best foam. You should buy some of their dart kits, especially since their darts are the safest alternatives out there.
Uh, snicker stefans are amazingly safe. They are also incredibly cheap to make.
Made a few, and they were war tested.
As a note, most of NH wants lots of data. Just cause'.
But i like it. Good job, this is probably the best 'firing test' that i have seen conducted. Allot of NH also prefers chronograph data to eliminate the error per se.
However, you have done an exquisite job.
I would like to see the EBB as well, but I'm pretty sure it's just a repaint.