Recommend these, cheap and reliable. Holds 12x18rounders at max capacity.
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Duke Wintermaul's Content
There have been 354 items by Duke Wintermaul (Search limited from 13-July 93)
The XD line is a sham, a marketing scheme to get people to buy two of the same blaster because it's a different color.
Most are the same, some are worse.
The Retaliator lost about 20feetpersecond with the XD sham.
If you have a choice, get the Blue Retailator
I order bulk custom made springs from Hillmann. They work in over half a dozen BOOMco blaster with high velocity results.
Farshots/M6/Plasma Pistols achieve 120feetpersecond with them.
They are $5 per, PM me if you would like to buy one.
Put your retention plate *inside* the endcap, not outside it.
On the Retailicon I made a few years ago I used a thin sheet of pressed brass, cut it to size, and seated it inside the endcap.
The brass was sturdy yet thin enough to do it's job without moving the catch point too far.
Got it as a gift some years back.
I'm sure you can use almost any model on the market, but the cheaper ones are generally the ones you want; they're mostly low-quality plastic housings that have no bearing on the actual compressor, high-end models are far better constructed and normally use the actual case as components.
K&S Brand machined metals make some quality brass tubing, and this is the brand you're most likely to find at a local hardware store.
Again, if your local store doesn't stock it they should be able to place an order for you; I've done so in the past with good success.
If you can't find any locally there is always our lord and savior McMasterCarr, who stock practically any hardware you could ever want. 17/32nd brass is #8859k34 and 9/16ths is #8859k35
Assuming the common forward voltage of 2v, and again assuming the common current rating of 30mA. If these aren't the values of the diodes you bought nothing I say will be accurate.
A 5x5 array, if you're set on using Lithium, would require a 3s pack at 11.1volts.
Each 'tree' of the parallel circuit would need a ~39ohm resistor.
LiPo's are i'll suited for LED array use, I'd recommend a 12volt NiMH pack. This will stabilize your circuit and avoid the problems caused by the Lithiums variable voltage. You'll also need to rework the array, a 5 'branch' array with 6 LED's on 4 branches (1ohm resistor per branch) and the last diode on it's own 'branch' with a 360ohm resistor.
Nice paint on that Hyperfire! Protip, RM2 motors are rated for 4.5volts; which means your running them too hot and they'll eventually fry and fail.
I'd recommend a nice pair of Honey Badger motors, they're great motors and are designed to run on a 2s lipo.
Here are some suck-less Hyperfire cages, it's worth gettine one printed if you want to have any kind of meaningful performance.
Just another Flywheelers, not a Stryfe this time!
Honeybadgers, 2s, minivoltmeter, 15A microswitch, 18awg rewire.
A slip of rubber band and a *slighly* smaller sized screw driver should work.
If they're too far gone for this simple trick to work you'll need to drill them out.
If you drill them out slowly you shouldnt damage any of the other parts.
Push comes to shove Stampedes are $10 tops, cheaper if you can find one at a thrift store.
RM2 motors are made for Robotics, and are rated for a forward voltage of 4.5V; Less than the stock Nerf motors.
Running RM2 motors on their proper specs will give you ~100fps, with a decent spin-up time.
Don't use *fires, IMR's, Lipos, or dummy cells.
If you want to use a lithium ion battery RM2's are not the motor for you.
Art, you'se says?
Libel, says I.
~210FPS airtanks, super fun cheap ass blasters.
Cpt. Slug dart door on the Kryptek/Zombies blaster. Extended use is ruining it's airseal. Sorry, Captain, but I think I'm going to stick with an endcap; still a super fun and innovative replacement for the ballvalve though, maybe use some rubber sheet instead of foam to increase longevity?
This quick half an hour job will increase your Burstwaves performance two fold, averaging an impressive four shots at 70fps each.
You'll need adhesive, here I'm using two-part epoxy and super glue, and a size 1 or 0 screwdriver.
Before disassembly pump your blaster two times, it's imperative to keep the tank at pressure; ensures integrity during modification. A total of 19 screws, all the same size. Keep an eye on the top rotation peg, it's spring can force the piece loose.
Remove your tank, below the blue plate is the OPRV.
Unscrew the plate and tip out the contents. Not shown is the spring, whoops, but here is the peg with o-ring seal and the top hollow cap. The only thing were saving here is the hollow cap, blue plate, and screws.
Mix up your adhesive, I'm using a "pastry bag" method for easy and clean-up free application.
Pop the hollow cap into the OPRV slot, hollow side down. Fill the slot with adhesive.
Let it set for a minute or two and place the blue plate back, tightly screwing it down. Place your tank in an upright position and let it sit for 10-15 minutes.
Now onto the two red nuts holding the vinyl tubing; they're secured with adhesive, but the lower nut is very loosely secured and is the first point of failure in an over pressurized system. It's easy to twist this nut off with your fingers, apply a liberal amount of your chosen adhesive and tightly twist the nut back into place. Now use the reference picture to make sure everything is back in place, close up the shell halves and screw it together.
Averaging 33fps faster than stock, I collected the data with seven full strokes of the pump. 8 or 9 pumps seems to be max; I discovered the red nut fault at 10 pumps, and any more might be nearing the pressure rating of the stock vinyl tubing.
I still don't have any more carbon fiber film, but I did get a very nice chopper working on my coupler'd Burstwave.
Ran out of Carbon Fiber film part way through this project, would have liked to redo large portions of this blaster but fuck it; good enough.
Also my first shot at dipping PVC. Did not go too well, only compounded by the fact that I was literally using the cast-off scraps of film for the RSCB system.
All-in-all, super happy with the performance of these little airtanks. I might need to shorten my hopper tube, half the time the last dart doesn't fire, just too much deadspace for this little tank.
Once I get more film I'll be swapping my RSCB for a Chopper, hopefully the PVC fittings come out better next time.
Seconding the Rhinos and Honeybadger suggestion. Run the whole system on a 3s, something at least 1000Mah and 35C discharge.
Hellcats would give you 130+fps, so you're overshooting your mark by quite a bit.
I see a lot of CC links, which is fine, but if you'd like to get them at the lowest price in the US just hit me up.
Finally started in on my massive pile of "modified-unpainted" gear.
First up is a BoomCo FlipBow sporting a Red/Blue fade and Dripping Skulls dip.
Then we have this PoS Recon with OMW metal internals. One shell half is the Clear series, and the other has been Oil Slick dipped. The inside of the OIl Slick half has been thoroughly Vinyl Dyed, and I rather like the way the internals are shown through the clear on a black backdrop; some minor internal pieces have been chromed to help accent the casted metal.
+1 for model aircraft, unfortunately these are the only photos I have uploaded right now. There was a stupid gag on Reddit where people were ducttaping knives to their quads... so that's why there is a fucking sword.
Semi-related note, I'm a licensed private pilot so sometimes I fly for real.
Use MMA, it's bond actually "solvent welds" ABS plastic together, and I guarantee something else will break before that bond gives out.
You simply separate the clip into it's own halves, and MMA weld them to the bottom of their respective blaster shell halves.
Everything can be separated for maintenance, and the barrel is removable.
Also, don't glue the clip advance springs together; tig weld it or (more commonly) wrap the bottom and top coils with some 24awg solid steel wire.
Yes, it is a top loader. I sacrificed the "removable clip" idea to squeeze four more into the mag.
It's more than just possible, it's easy and also been done before.
This is actually a Ten Shot Magnus I made over two years ago.
Pretty much exactly what has been said here is what I did to it, with one exception. Don't use "liquid epoxy", you need to use Methacrylate; MMA, Devcon, whatever brand just be sure it's active ingredient is Methacrylate. Leaps and bounds better than "liquid epoxy".
Just take your time, measure twice cut once.
Edit: Of course it's a Centurion barrel. It's also easily removable for when you don't want the feel of a "heavy pistol".
1. The trading forums (which you can't access yet), /r/NerfExchange, Facebook Nerf B/S/T, and eBay all come to mind.
2. Yes. There is a German hand-fabricating entire flywheel cages, his wheels are smooth and concave.
I've seen quite a few flywheel comparison articles, and from all the data that's been collected these are supposedly the best value for your money.
Rhinos will handle 4 IMR's just fine, but like you said capacity and amperage leave something to be desired.
There is no 130 motor currently produced that is spec'ed for 14+volts. Rhinos will be your best bet.
If you need a pair hit me up.
Guess again, those have an operating voltage of 12volts; the exact same operating voltage as Rhinos.
Can you overvolt them?Sure, just like you can overvolt Rhinos.
Should you be running ANY 130 motor on 4s? No.
This post was intended to serve as an in-house troubleshooter and Internal Guide for the Internal Directory of the new Nerf N-Strike Elite Hyperfire, far different than the current Hyperfire.
For more information on the New Hyperfire see my upcoming modification guide.
The Hyperfire has 20 screws in it's main body, the four in the conveyor belt do not need to be removed before disassembly.
The main board is right behind the battery tray in the stock, it houses the thermally sensitive resistor and various other components.
The main body of the blaster houses many triggers and electrical switches.
Without all of that nasty orange plastic in the way we can get a clear view of how the electrical system is layed out.
The flywheel housing and the conveyor belt in their proper location.
The conveyor belt internals. There is no reason to disassemble the "Jam Belt". I was originally mistaken, there are two prongs on the belt which means the conveyor is rotating 2.5 times a second.
And this is the lock that breaks the circuit if the switch on the Jam Belt is not engaged.
The inside of the pusher box that powers the belt.
The integrated board on the canted flywheels.
The canted wheels inside the cage.
A fully disassembled flywheel cage.
The Electrical system of the blaster, in it's proper location.
The Electrical system of the blaster... completely removed.
The blaster with all internals removed.
And now were going to completely disassemble the shell. First thing to do is remove all the loose components from the blaster.
There are five screws inside the blaster, all located on the grey main plate. Remove all ten and the blaster will easily come apart into different sections. Below is the grey main plate.
And here is the blue and orange plates, which both connect to the grey main plate. The blue plate must be removed first, meaning that the orange plate must be place back into the grey plate first.
And that's pretty much the blaster. I trust people will be able to solve their misplaced piece syndrome with the above catalog, and the full disassembly will help users to properly paint their blasters.
Below is a set of Chronograph Muzzle velocities from the Stock Hyperfire using the Stock Fresh Y-code Elite Darts that were included with the blaster. The numbers are, hopefully obviously, feetpersecond muzzle velocities. Each shot was taken at a full spinup of the flywheels, using full auto will drastically reduce these numbers.
I guess I promised you a review in the title? I hope this embedding works...