I disagree with some of his findings, but it's still a damn good comprehensive guide.


If you're attempting to compile a 'shopping list' for batteries I'd say it's not worth it. Prices will always change, retailers will cycle stock, and locations for purchase will vary dependent on location/country.

The best thing to do is educate yourself about what type of battery you need for what application and simply spend some time online shopping for the best deal.

But what do I know

This should probably be in the 'modification and paintjob picture' thread.

Generally, new threads are made for writeups and how to's.

I think that barricade is rocking man.

OK that is my first mod write up what did ya think?

It wasn't really a write up. Next time, just slap your pictures here and we'll see it.

I'm sure he did. He's just trying to compress it into something easy for NH.

As a note, most of NH wants lots of data. Just cause'.

But i like it. Good job, this is probably the best 'firing test' that i have seen conducted. Allot of NH also prefers chronograph data to eliminate the error per se.
However, you have done an exquisite job.

I would like to see the EBB as well, but I'm pretty sure it's just a repaint.

Dot JayPeg. really?

Incase you can't pick one up here, buy one from Costco. The Centurion they sell comes with two clips.

Well, you sir are in fact not a fng. Your profile reads full member status.

That being said, are the wye's actually printed by Kronos or just his file? Are they the most recent version, or are they the original red faulty ones?

Also, an item that I would strongly recommend you start making is the Nerf ZombieStrike Sledgefire shell. Once you have a functioning design, make a post in /R/Nerf. You wont be able to print them fast enough.

This is the problem with 3D printing, everybody thinks you can print out whatever you want willy nilly and have it last forever.

Like Roboman said, this is used for rapid prototyping.

Could you print part of the longshot breech assembaly.

Yes. You can print anything that will fit within the bed of said printer.

Will this breech hold up to any kind of stress, especially the kind we NiC gents like to put on longshot's? No.

If you want a suitable replacement Longshot breech, I would suggest an OMW kit or hope Ice starts selling them.

I'm based in Dayton, but spend most of my time up at Toledo for school.

You can look in the members tab and sort via location to find anybody actually in Cleveland.

http://nerfhaven.com...ers&module=list

All users that have 'California' as there state.

Also check out https://www.facebook.com/BayAreaBURN

It's all California to me.

It's officially a repaint.

Looks spiffy tho.

I don't understand why people are doing this.

https://blasted.de/t4924/

Report back with chronograph readings, but I have a sinking suspicion you just threw away your money.

The Stryfe is not discontinued, there was just a lul when they switched to the new 2017 production line and changed the blasters packaging.

They should be in stores across the nation, for $25.

Is it just me, or are neither of the links working?

As far as Airsoft to Nerf conversions, I'm sure it's possible.

But for $50 you can make some wicked homemade internals that would most likely perform much better than the airsoft gun.

I've seen a few Paintball to Nerf conversions, but never an Airsoft one. You should undertake this project, if for nothing more than knowledge gained.

I am amazed at performance, i had no idea this little tank could put out that much power.

It helps that i'm using stock elites, which have great aerodynamics and flight capabilities.

Where did you buy your AirMax10? I haven't been able to find it anywhere.

If anybody is interested, I chronographed my AM6.

Six shots, 120.2, 113.0, 103.5, 133.9, 112.6, and 113.5 bringing the average to 116.1 fps.

FWIW, I think stock elites have terrible flight dynamics. The tip is so light that at higher FPS, they do not have stable flight at all. They swerve, for sure.

Stock elites have amazing flight dynamics. Agreed that at high velocities they are wildly inaccurate, but at lower speeds they outperform any NiC stefan I've ever used. That is the true measure of flight dynamics. Any weighted peice of foam we slap together will fly strait and true when we back them with incredible velocities, but the stock elite dart was engineered to perform wonderfully at lower speeds and coax as much range out of lower powered blasters as possible.

On the whole subject of airmax 6's, I was at Walmart yesterday for some epoxy putty, and I went to check out the blaster section like I usually do, and I saw a few airmax 6's in a new color scheme and package. It was greenish instead of gray, and the box advertised 60' instead of 40' if my memory is correct.
@ Duke, I think you have one of those.

I do indeed, Wal-Mart's BuzzBee line is all coloured differently. As you said, they are all grayish/green. This includes the rangemaster and panther relaunch. Also, their double barrels are blue. I believe these to be a simple reshell, and the internals are identical to their white brothers. I own two AM6's, one white from target and the other green/Gray from Wal-Mart. As far as I can tell, opening them, modding them, and chronographing them, they are identical.

I can back up Duke's range claim however. Tank expanded, 8 pumps, this thing gets 100+ flat no problem with an 8" CPVC single barrel. My pump shaft nearly broke where it connects to the handle, so it is necessary to reinforce it as Duke pointed out.

Contrary to popular belief, I'm not just making shit up.

I'm on my way to buy one. If I open it up and it appears that it can be modded into more or less an effective primary, I'll post an in depth writeup.

It can be. I'm currently sitting next to mine. I'm getting over the century mark with this blaster.

It doesn't really require a write up, it's super simple. Go right ahead and make one though, but I don't think it's worth your time. Here's a few notes for you, replace the pink vinyl tubing and reinforce the pump shaft; both of these failed on me. Also, this 'guide' has a terrible turret seal. I can't even imaging putting this blaster back together with that shitty of a seal. How I solved it, cut off the shaft of the black plate we boiled off and glue them back in place. Then cover them in silicone grease. It's not perfect, but it's loads better than leaving them off. I also added a second spring to the plate that connects the tank to the rear of the turret.

Like I said, I'm getting over 100ft with stock streamlines and 5 pumps.



Good luck

Wunderbar! I've been working on a writeup for the Air Max 6, basically because nobody has done one in the new Extreme line yet. This puts what ever I might have squirted out to shame.

I was reading through, and kept thinking "Damn, so much work and effort for that little air tank" and then you expanded it. Artfully done, it felt like reading a thriller book.

Do not remember telling you to avoid white vinyl dye, but you are correct it is absolute shite. A dollar can of white paint will work seven times better at a seventh of the price. But, I guess I already told you that...

The only thing this writeup is missing is some chronograph data. I, too, have an overhauled AM10 and would really like to see how your tank expansion, and other fixes, stack up in muzzle velocity.

The answer to your question is Yes, many people have made "afterburners" for flywheel blasters.

IIRC none of these project have broken the flywheel performance ceiling of ~130feetpersecond.

You're better off doing one set of flywheels the right way instead of half-assing two sets.

Edit: Apologies for responding to this topic, but I figured since you hadn't closed it I'd at the very least answer OP and provide a link.

I like it.

My jamdoor is occupied at the moment, and always will be, so a different location would be better.

I'm waiting for your tests, as i'm curious as to how much this is needed. Whats the RPM range with the min and max settings? How much of an improvement can this be? Does it reduce torque?

Lots of question's, but i like it.

Any 15v power supply will work, you probably already have a few lying around unused.

The same charger I spam on everyone of these posts.

Why? Because it's a really really ridiculously good charger at a very reasonable rate.

There are a few respected NH members on the Trading Forums that do 3D printing services. MHA is pumping out the ESTL's, which I doubt you could top.

It seems like you want to launch your own forum, so why exactly advertise on this forum? The userbase here is pretty happy with the imperfect system that's in place, and I doubt they'd go for a Version 2 of this.

I have used it before, but I just ahoved it in 1/2 pvc to overcome the curving in it.

Did you 'cure' it in the PVC? That is to say, you then removed the pex after it had been straitened out or did you use it while it was inside the PVC?

Was it pex tubing?

Assuming this is what OP has found.

Pex, or Sharkbite, doesn't make the best barreling material. They are shipped, and often sold, rolled up on spools. The tubing is fairly malleable and almost always retains the curvature of the spool making it useless for longer barrels... unless your trying to fire around corners and pull off some "Wanted" BS.

I especially loved the video, even if I cannot speak Chinese the video was still highly informative

Agreed. If only we could get a parts list in English?

Having a little trouble with one of my Plasma Pistol's triggers, so since I have to take it apart I figured I'd do a quick write up on how I disassembled this blaster (which seems to be a trouble point with most users) and the modifications I performed. 



Tool's required:
T15 or T10 hex bit
Size 1 screwdriver. The screws are Phillips, but I used a Standard.
Hammer
Replacement spring or a duplicate stock spring.
Wire Cutters (optional)
Hotglue or similar adhesive

Step #1: Removing the main rivet.
 

Place your hex bit firmly on the threaded side of the rivet (the side without screw holes) and give it a solid whack with your hammer. One nice big whack is all you'll need.
 

 

The rivet will protrude from the other side and can easily be grasped with your fingers and removed.

 

 

Step 2: Removing the secondary rivet.

This is why I'm using a Standard driver. Take your driver and position it as shown, use steady and gentle pressure to pop one side of the rivet out of it's housing.


 

At this point you need to remove the two screws in the top of the slide. Once done, the slide can be removed. There is a third rivet at the very base of the slide, but it is not necessary to remove in order to get the slide off. If you wish to remove it take your wire cutters and either snip the rivet in half or use gentle pressure to pop it off. Remove said slide. 

Step 3: Disassembly

There are twelve screws that need to be removed. Do so.

 

 

Step 4: Internal modification.

This is what you're finished internals will look like.

 

 

There are three pieces of plastic that need to be removed, they make up the dart lock that prevents you from pulling the trigger if a dart is not loaded. They consist of the cap, black lock, and actuator arm. Remove all three of these. Below photo of the stock internals to show the locks, photo credit Zombona (Thanks, Google)


 

Now were going to plug the hole in the barrel that was used for this lock. Simple to do, just fill it up with hotglue or an adhesive of your choice. Be sure the barrel is filled with either a dart or tube of similar diameter.



Swap out the spring and put it back together.

Enjoy your new pistol.

The blaster shown has been disassembled at least four times. If you follow my above method there is no stress to the plastic and the rivet can be removed and replaced as many times as you wish. 

I order bulk custom made springs from Hillmann. They work in over half a dozen BOOMco blaster with high velocity results.

Farshots/M6/Plasma Pistols achieve 120feetpersecond with them.

They are $5 per, PM me if you would like to buy one.

I thought we settled this.

Both sellers have updated their listings to include a new gluing quality control check, you shouldnt be having any issues with loose heads anymore.

Go out and buy Koosh darts.