The blaster shown has been disassembled at least four times. If you follow my above method there is no stress to the plastic and the rivet can be removed and replaced as many times as you wish.
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Duke Wintermaul's Content
There have been 354 items by Duke Wintermaul (Search limited from 13-July 93)
Having a little trouble with one of my Plasma Pistol's triggers, so since I have to take it apart I figured I'd do a quick write up on how I disassembled this blaster (which seems to be a trouble point with most users) and the modifications I performed.
T15 or T10 hex bit
Size 1 screwdriver. The screws are Phillips, but I used a Standard.
Replacement spring or a duplicate stock spring.
Wire Cutters (optional)
Hotglue or similar adhesive
Step #1: Removing the main rivet.
Place your hex bit firmly on the threaded side of the rivet (the side without screw holes) and give it a solid whack with your hammer. One nice big whack is all you'll need.
The rivet will protrude from the other side and can easily be grasped with your fingers and removed.
Step 2: Removing the secondary rivet.
This is why I'm using a Standard driver. Take your driver and position it as shown, use steady and gentle pressure to pop one side of the rivet out of it's housing.
At this point you need to remove the two screws in the top of the slide. Once done, the slide can be removed. There is a third rivet at the very base of the slide, but it is not necessary to remove in order to get the slide off. If you wish to remove it take your wire cutters and either snip the rivet in half or use gentle pressure to pop it off. Remove said slide.
Step 3: Disassembly
There are twelve screws that need to be removed. Do so.
Step 4: Internal modification.
This is what you're finished internals will look like.
There are three pieces of plastic that need to be removed, they make up the dart lock that prevents you from pulling the trigger if a dart is not loaded. They consist of the cap, black lock, and actuator arm. Remove all three of these. Below photo of the stock internals to show the locks, photo credit Zombona (Thanks, Google)
Now were going to plug the hole in the barrel that was used for this lock. Simple to do, just fill it up with hotglue or an adhesive of your choice. Be sure the barrel is filled with either a dart or tube of similar diameter.
Swap out the spring and put it back together.
Enjoy your new pistol.
Should people make replica firearms? No.
Should people keep the orange tips? Yes, I always do.
But strictly speaking there is not legal precedent to force us to follow code. Of course, I don't want to get talked down by armed officers so I always follow the code anyway.
Without crafting an entirely new rotation mech I doubt it's possible to get it to function.
In short, just stick some CPVC into the Cycloneshock barrels.
It seems like you want to launch your own forum, so why exactly advertise on this forum? The userbase here is pretty happy with the imperfect system that's in place, and I doubt they'd go for a Version 2 of this.
Several locations are being scouted, all their rents seem fairly reasonable but I'll be taking tours and finalizing prices within two weeks.
Possible locations are one 10,000sqft warehouse with adjacent 2,000sqft office space, one 15,000 warehouse, and if I can talk down the agent to a reasonable price for a short term reservation a 50,000sqft empty manufacturing floor.
The BBAM1, 6, and 10 all have the reduced airtank of the Buzz Bee later generation Panthers; in fact the Air Max One is nothing more than a relaunch of the Panther.
To answer your question about how to make a slide breech the obvious answer is to find a guide on NerfHaven. Well, you haven't done that so I guess I'll just throw a few easy and cheap options at you.
1/2" PVC and 1/2" CPVC 'magic' breech. This one is simple, go to the hardware store and find the two foot pre-cut segments of both PVC and CPVC in half an inch. Find a nice slim segment of CPVC and take it over to the pile of PVC; spend a few minutes playing doctor until you find a segment of PVC that eagerly accepts the CPVC into it. Make a few cuts, do a bevel or two, and slap a 1/2" coupler onto the airtank.
If you can't find any 'magic' PVC just buy yourself some 1/2" CPVC and some 1/2" Thin Wall PVC and a little bit of craft foam. Line the internal of the thin wall PVC with the foam and supa glu it, a single layer is all you need. Make a few cuts, do a bevel or two, and slap a 1/2" coupler onto the airtank.
I'll try and correct a few of your misconceptions.
Epoxy is a two stage liquid adhesive that must be mixed before application, and Epoxy Putty is a two stage solid adhesive that must be mixed before application.
If you are trying to integrate two Nerf ABS shells I recommend you pick up a tube of Marine epoxy putty and a vial of Methacrylate liquid epoxy. Marine putty is used on the external bond of the shell; you don't have to use Marine but I've found it is one of the easiest to apply and can be molded and shaped quite easily after both initial chemical mixture and by sanding it down after it has fully set. Methacrylate liquid epoxy isn't actually epoxy, but you'll find it branded and sold right along side them. Methacrylate adhesives actually chemically bond with the plastic shell and will actually outlive the ABS plastic, perfect for the internal integration bond. Methacrylates are commonly sold as "Plastic Bonder", the most popular brand is Devcon simply because almost all of their products are methacrylate; but always check the back of the package to make sure you have the right stuff.
Why? Because it's a really really ridiculously good charger at a very reasonable rate.
People report muzzle velocities of ~110fps with this set up.
The Zippy Compact is supposedly small enough to fit inside the battery tray with a little body work.
As always, I recommend the Accucel-6 charger, I started using it two years ago with my multicopter batteries and it's simply an amazing product at a reasonable price.
No, 130 motors do not require cutting the shell.
Never listen to the salesmen at the store, there goal is to sell you whatever they have in stock. Guaranteed the battery, and probably the charger, I recommended are cheaper. Not only are they cheaper but they are tried and trued with a plethora of flywheel nerfers across the globe.
$5 if you're trying to make a profit.
If you ever have a question on blaster value again just go to eBay and use their advanced search setting to browse sold listings, let you know what people are willing to pay.
Still waiting on some XT60 battery connectors, but this is a quick shot the night I put it together.
Desert Digital Camo, rubberized grips, Falcon 130 motors, 2s 20c Lipo, mini voltmeter.
Another one coming soon, Fatigue Digital Camo.
Desert is on the left, Fatigue on the right.
IIRC none of these project have broken the flywheel performance ceiling of ~130feetpersecond.
You're better off doing one set of flywheels the right way instead of half-assing two sets.
Edit: Apologies for responding to this topic, but I figured since you hadn't closed it I'd at the very least answer OP and provide a link.
I think it's hilarious Hasbro is trying to market to the NiC, especially with a flywheel golfballshooter flagship.
The 'new ballistic ball' is reportedly .9" diameter and divoted like a golf ball.
"MXV-1200" = Motorized 'X'tra Velocity, twelve ball magazine. Multiplying the capacity by 100 just sounds better I guess.
With ~$30 worth of parts you can be averaging 123.7fps.
With a few hundred Kewsh darts, say ~$20, you can accurately group darts on a target at 90ft ptg.
Flywheel systems seem to have a bad rap. At a past NiC event there were three people with flywheels, two of them fried their motors on fancy integration builds (LOL @ Kentucky) before the first round and I used mine for the remainder of the war.
I'll continue to use Flywheel technology until something else strikes my fancy, but I'm happy with them at the moment.
While I do agree with you that a brass barrel will add extra friction, I think that your setup imparted way to much unnecessary friction. I have yet to try this but I would imagine that a shorter barrel would add extra accuracy without as much range decrease.
I did these videos the week Containment Crew uploaded his.
All my brass was internally polished, as well as beveled inside the magwell for feeding.
He never came back with his promised formal testing, so I did it for him.
Although the goal was to measure accuracy and precision, like I tried to do with the shitty fence and cardboard, I also took chronograph readings. Long brass stryfe was ~80fps, short barrel ~95fps, No barrel 123.7fps. Any effect you see on accuracy and precision is due to decreased muzzle velocities taking the Elite dart back into an operable speed.
The simple fix is to use koosh darts, watching the video you can clearly see a much tighter grouping of the green koosh darts, even though most of them went high and right over the fence. I also had to get closer to the target by 20ft with the brass stryfe to even collect any kind of data at all, which skews the results.
Kewsh is love, Kewsh is life.
The head hole has nothing to do with flight stability, they fishtail and dive simply because of their center of gravity, low mass, and the muzzle velocities people are trying to make them go. Let me hit you with some knowledge.
I would recommend Kewsh darts for any Nerfer who uses flywheels. Their patented head design creates a drag vortex to stabilize the projectile at high (120+fps) velocities.
As far as the Stryfe mod goes, it looks like it works. Your high amplitude battery is unnecessarily large, some small 3s LiPo cells can actually fit in your battery tray. IIRC the Zippy Compact fits.
Not a fan of the 3D printed covers, I always just hotglue some Vortex Disc's over the holes. Keeping all the wiring internal is a MUST for future projects.
No idea how you had so much trouble getting the motors to stay into the cage. I've found that leaving the stock plastic tightening rings on the inside of the cage intact instead of dremeling them out works best, simply leverage the motors in with some NNpliers.
Great job completing your first foray into flywheels, I'm glad you're happy with the results. I'm sure they'll be more to come that will surprise even you.
2. I've had bad results with any dye other than black, your proposed white vinyl dye 'basecoat' is laughable. If you need a white surface prime the blaster with black vinyl dye then use a dollar rattle can of white.
3. If all your internals are removed you'll be just fine dipping it in water, the water will have no effect on the terminal tabs left inside the blaster. Just make sure it's all dry before you solder.
I've done more Stryfe's than I can count, you'll be fine if you follow my above suggestions.
I've never had any issues with my monster flywheel builds, I mean of course they're loud but what do we expect pushing a system to it's limits like we are?
You also might look into electronic braking. I've seen a few builds that utilize this, although it won't make your blaster any quieter it will drastically reduce the wind down time of the flywheels. This will shorten the amount of time they are spinning after you break the circuit and thus shorten the amount of time they are making noise. Doesn't help much, but I've always felt trying to sound dampen a flywheel system to be futile.