Birch's Content

#345528 the nerf Rivals blasters

Posted by Birch on 13 March 2015 - 05:48 PM in General Nerf

I just want to know that those little things (though denser) pack a punch, and you'll actually feel a hit from a good distance away.

Yeah, if it is solid foam and the foam is anything like the old ballistic ball foam, I think accuracy and range would suffer greatly. Hopefully the foam rounds are made of a very dense foam or are weighted in some other way. Regardless, I'll probably still be buying the Zeus whenever it comes out.

#345463 Pool Noodle Rockets

Posted by Birch on 10 March 2015 - 08:22 PM in Darts and Barrels

I know you're probably going to use pool noodles, but I would also highly recommend the slit-less pipe insulation that some hardware stores carry. I have used it for rockets before and it was fantastic to work with.

#345462 help on my slugs

Posted by Birch on 10 March 2015 - 08:19 PM in Darts and Barrels

Yeah, post pictures. Also make sure your tips are secured tightly, the connection may be weak, and the tip may fly off and the foam just flitters in the breeze.

#345410 Homemade Flywheel Blaster

Posted by Birch on 08 March 2015 - 08:40 PM in Homemades

RPM doesn't directly influence fps, per say. It's the speed of the edge of the flywheel. Since your flywheels are connected by a belt, the edge speed is the same on both. This has no advantage over simply feeding the dart in the larger wheels in the back, and has the added disadvantage of extra friction in the system.

Wait, actually? i thought about it like a bike. When you want the back wheel to go faster you switch the gear on the pedal to a larger one. I may be totally wrong and I'm sorry, bu the maths could probably be done and there could still be some for having an indirect connection between motor and flywheel.

#345407 Homemade Flywheel Blaster

Posted by Birch on 08 March 2015 - 08:14 PM in Homemades

As I understand, concept threads are not really allowed, but I have just so little desire to actually try it out this idea for myself, I thought I could just tell you my thinking and someone who knows more than me about electronics and stuff could try it out or something.

My basic idea is to move the location of the motors in a flywheel blaster. Doing this, one could in theory raise the revolution speed of the flywheels greatly, without using insane motors or equally insane batteries. By harnessing basic mechanical laws, this design would be able to compete with other plunger-based homemades in range and fps. Here is my basic design:

Screen%20Shot%202015-03-08%20at%207.56.2 [/URL][/img]

Locating the motors in the behind the darts allows for their to be a mechanical advantage system of wheels and pulleys. This means I can spin the back motors at a slower or even similar rpm to what is required in a say a stryfe, and achieving much better performance. The motors would need to have really Of course this would add a lot more bulk to the blaster, but it would still be much shorter than a double rainbow, which this would be similar in size to.

The reason I have so little desire to try this out for myself is because I have no where near the amount of cash that would be needed to build this thing, nor do I have the knowledge or the patience to work with something like this. In addition, this thing would require either expertly crafted or 3D printed parts. I would love to see this idea put into practise by someone, and to see if my ideas would actually be practical.

#345351 Non-spraypaints. What works well on plastics?

Posted by Birch on 04 March 2015 - 08:42 AM in Modifications

I have found that you are best off having a vinyl dye undercoat with enamel details.

#345245 Flywheel Coating

Posted by Birch on 27 February 2015 - 11:20 AM in Modifications

If you really want better grip on darts, make a 3d printing file of flywheels that are textured and/or bigger. These would last way longer than adding material to the flywheels, and would be a lot cheaper and replaceable. In addition, they can probabably get a significantly larger grip and consistancy. If you don't have access to 3d printing, it is probably possible to fabricate the flywheels from a different material.

#345240 Any advice on modding the Impact X?

Posted by Birch on 26 February 2015 - 04:11 PM in Modifications

Can you please post some more photos of the breeching system? If I can see it better than I can tell you how to do an effective breech.

#345103 Berserker crayola marker mod - need help

Posted by Birch on 19 February 2015 - 06:29 PM in Modifications

I can not stand idly by while I see another nerfer using markers to rebarrel a blaster. This is thing causing your problems with the other markers, but is probably hindering performance in general; you have a massive amount of deadspace in your system. The berzerker turret blaster has very little plunger volume, so you are probably loosing a very significant performance. Also don't use koosh darts for anything besides flywheel blasters. They can be a bitch.

#344778 Best Stefan Foam

Posted by Birch on 03 February 2015 - 08:29 PM in Darts and Barrels

beige hot rod xl is great. So is loghome store foam. I have used both, and I can say that they have the same value. Loghome store foam is much more expensive but darts can last at least 6 time longer than hot rod. In addition the recovery rate is great. I personally love both equally, but it just depends on how much dough you're willing to drop on some foam.

#344682 Does an orange-trigger Bigshock actually exist?

Posted by Birch on 29 January 2015 - 06:38 PM in General Nerf

Griever does have a good point. Nowhere on the packaging did it say that the bigshock was "elite".

#344587 Pullback Longshot

Posted by Birch on 25 January 2015 - 06:13 PM in Modifications

I would highly suggest getting some pipe with a 1/2 inch od and pushing that into both the plunger rod and pullback handle, and then putting your adhesives over it. The connection will be much stronger.

#344572 Rave's Quick Tips- add/replace springs!

Posted by Birch on 24 January 2015 - 08:17 PM in Modifications

Not to hate, but this is about one of the most basic things about modding, and has probably been around since modding was invented. There is no need to make pointless posts.

#344445 NERF MEGA RotoFury Blaster

Posted by Birch on 20 January 2015 - 03:39 PM in News

New Doomsayeresque platform?

#344348 Cycloneshock mod

Posted by Birch on 17 January 2015 - 11:56 AM in Modifications

Does anyone know a better way to re-barrel a cycloneshock besides wrapping e-tape around cpvc until it fits firmly?

I whould suggest using McMaster #9245k27 tubing. It will make the turret much heavier, but you will not have to use e-tape. Honestly, using e-tape is very easy and much cheaper than buying other things, so i would just suggest staying with that.

#344347 Bigshock Mod 110fps avg

Posted by Birch on 17 January 2015 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

Very clean. Would you happen to know the draw length and/or the plunger tube ID? I would love to know the volume this blaster puts out.

#343861 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Birch on 03 January 2015 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

Ok, thanks. I bought the foam and have already cut the roll into 155 blanks. But there is one problem, I can't find any 5/8" felt pads, only 3/4 and 1/2". Do you have any recommendations for a dart head for this foam? I don't really want to make glue/silicone domes because I've heard they hurt more and aren't as safe. That and no one that I know of makes dome molds that big.

I have made 5/8 mega stefans before, and I just used 1/2 felt tips. They worked pretty well, but using something 5/8 in diameter would have been better. I would recommend getting some fairly thick craft foam and a section of 21/32 or 5/8 brass, and using it as a die to punch out pieces of craft foam. Adhere the tips to washer, and adhere that to your foam, and you've got a mega slug dart. If you could find adhesive backed craft foam that would be even better.

#343841 Strongarm Malfunction

Posted by Birch on 02 January 2015 - 05:33 PM in General Nerf

Did you use regular steamlines and/or shitty elites? They would probably cause loss in performance.

#343769 Modded Swarmfire Spring Help

Posted by Birch on 30 December 2014 - 01:43 PM in Modifications

This should work: mcmaster #9657k452

#343699 Pricing questions

Posted by Birch on 23 December 2014 - 12:25 PM in General Nerf

If you want to find the prices that these blasters usually go for i would definitely search for them in the trading forum. What I can say, from what I have seen, is that the supermaxx 1500 is worth around 25ish dollars, and the last three can sell from anywhere from around 20 to 60 dollars. These prices are just from my prior knowledge, but they could be way off depending on their condition, and who you sell them to. I would recommend selling them here on nerfhaven, because you will probably get a better price, and will be able to sell them much faster. Also, I would recommend selling these in an offer or bidding fashion, because then you won't be selling them for the wrong price.

#343626 DART LENGTH

Posted by Birch on 18 December 2014 - 05:49 PM in Darts and Barrels

What I prefer in blasters with clips is, like SolarFusion, darts just long enough that I won't have to modify clips, around 2 inches, plus the felt tip. For a blaster where loading is kind of cramped, like a singled longshot, I would recommend darts a bit longer than 1.25 inches. They are easy to load, and not too unstable. For the most part, I make 1.75 inch darts. They don't work in clip blasters unless you modify your clips, but I mainly just use speedloaders anyways, so it is not an issue.

#343625 mod class then a war

Posted by Birch on 18 December 2014 - 05:37 PM in General Nerf

grammar?

#342986 How To Do Chrome/Mirrored Finish

Posted by Birch on 22 November 2014 - 03:55 PM in Homemades

What I used one time was krylon x-metals spray paint. It came out with a very nice shimmery metalic look. It probably isn't exactly what you had in mind but I would definitely check it out. Someone painted a 3k with it and it looked dope, but I can't remember who it was.

Edit: found it!: topic 22566

#342985 new foam

Posted by Birch on 22 November 2014 - 03:50 PM in Darts and Barrels

I have had some log home store foam for about 2.5 years, and it has outlasted my beige foam which is only about a year old. The cells are large, but are very hard and make the foam very resilient. It has a springer fit in mcmaster sch. 80 pvc, and has a slightly loose push fit in 9/16. You can use very high temp hot glue guns with it and it won't melt. Overall, while it was pricey, its recovery rate and foam longevity have really overridden the price.

#342784 Has anyone figured out the best way to seal slits in Elite darts?

Posted by Birch on 10 November 2014 - 09:14 AM in Darts and Barrels

Bro, the answer you seek is one that is silly and impractical. Any glue that you use is either going to be to hard or not strong enough. What all previous answers have said is that your solution is stupidly complex compared to just using
stefans or straw reinforced darts.

#342760 Has anyone figured out the best way to seal slits in Elite darts?

Posted by Birch on 08 November 2014 - 07:44 PM in Darts and Barrels

Just use stefans. Or make your blasters less powerful. But that's silly

#342421 using a bladder to expand a tank?

Posted by Birch on 15 October 2014 - 05:57 PM in Modifications

I think the bladder would actually work quite well. Don't the super overpowered iron man super soakers have a rubber tank? I think it would make more sense to use a hard tank though, as the pressure world probably be higher. Of course you could band the bladder to get higher pressures and a faster release.

#342397 Rotating barrel minigun

Posted by Birch on 14 October 2014 - 02:14 PM in General Nerf

why?

#341582 Tech Target Inertnals Replacement help

Posted by Birch on 27 August 2014 - 11:25 AM in Modifications

I would highly suggest not cutting off the back portion. It will allow more flex in the plunger rod, causing a greater chance for it to snap.

#339604 Telescoping Plunger Tube Blaster (TPB)

Posted by Birch on 16 June 2014 - 03:49 PM in Homemades

What I have found with my expand a blast, which has the same problems as your homemade does with the power, is to not make the seal perfect. Doing this reduces friction, which I have found adds enough speed to the plunger rod to counteract the loss of volume and actually add extra power.

#339603 Clippard valves

Posted by Birch on 16 June 2014 - 03:45 PM in Homemades

I think that that valve wouldn't work, because it seems to take in air from where the button is, and it could let air back through that area too. I would suggest using instead: http://www.mcmaster....6790t41/=sfr65z

#339411 Tech Target Blaster Spring Equivelant

Posted by Birch on 07 June 2014 - 11:40 AM in General Nerf

I would do that but I like the eliminator because I got it free, besides, I got it going 40 ft flat, I use it for entertainment. I just wanted to put a little more power into it. So would a nite finder spring from OMW fit the plunger tube? Or would the Vulcan spring work better?

Just take a stock nite finder or vulcan spring and see if either fits. If one does, than get its respective replacement spring.

#339405 Tech Target Blaster Spring Equivelant

Posted by Birch on 07 June 2014 - 07:47 AM in General Nerf

Why bother?

The benefits from a new spring on a tiny system like that of the eliminator's, is not going to give much more of an improvement than like a few feet/fps.

Honestly if you want something small just get like a jolt because they are easier to modify.

#339187 Bullpup Variant Writeup

Posted by Birch on 27 May 2014 - 05:43 AM in Homemades

You could also use 1" thinwall for the catch housing, just to make the catch not have to be downsized so much.

#339064 Why you cant use the word Sniper and other word filter shenanigans

Posted by Birch on 20 May 2014 - 03:15 PM in Site Feedback

Could you add guns as a word into the word filter. I feel that some people dislike nerf due to people calling them guns.

#338546 Buzz Bee Air Max 1 OPRV... Where is it?

Posted by Birch on 29 April 2014 - 03:38 PM in Modifications

It is on the end of the pump like the panther, or there isn't one.

#338463 Australian Equivelant to K26? (Nitefinder rifle)

Posted by Birch on 24 April 2014 - 06:01 AM in Modifications

This is a good question and should also be able to help other people in Australia.

The [k26] is about 14 kg's and is 11 inches(28 cm) long. Its compressed leangth is a bit under 3 in(7.62 cm)

#338354 First home made tips

Posted by Birch on 20 April 2014 - 05:25 PM in Homemades

These types of threads aren't normally allowed, just saying.

By the way all of this information has already been posted, so if people are looking for it they can find it.

Also, you should at least credit the creators of their respective threads/videos.

#338260 homemade airgun help

Posted by Birch on 16 April 2014 - 05:51 AM in General Nerf

Another design that is sort of pull pin is the mad ghost: http://nerfhaven.com...=1

This one is more of a push pin type design but is extremely easy to make a modified tank-only design to fit your needs.

#338204 Coops youtube cannel

Posted by Birch on 12 April 2014 - 03:37 PM in General Nerf

Why would it matter to you. He already quit.

And by the way this is a nerf forum, not a nerf-theamed soap magazine.

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