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There have been 17 items by mr trouble (Search limited from 02-September 93)
Chances are the plunger body isn't moving forward when you fire. That would account for the dry firing sound and not having the darts leave the barrel. If the plunger body doesn't move forward then all the air will just go out the sides an never engages the barrel. Try taking it apart and reassembling it. It's possible that the plunger body may have gotten dislodged from it's track, which would make it hard for it to move forward. Also remove that e-tape as it just makes it harder for the plunger body to move forward. Hopefully that helps.
Wow well done. It's a really glorious blaster. How well do the 3d printed components holdup to bending forces. The 8 shaped pieces, they seem like they normally wouldn't encounter strong forces but would you think they would break if you dropped it? How long does it take you to actually make one? It seems like easy blaster to assemble once you have all the parts.
I agree with Ivan I would like to see Hasbro put out some more air powered blasters that are full and semi auto. More specifically I really want to see a triple round burst blaster. I would also like to see that they continue to produce simple, cheap and rugged blasters like the night finder and the scout. It's good to have really cheap entry level blasters for parents without serious amounts of cash. Electric blasters won't ever go away but I feel like they deviate from my view of Nerf. Nerf should be fun and cheap. The whine of electric motors and the cost of batteries kinda ruins the game.
I second Draconis given the additional information. A flywheel blaster would be the best bet, that way the tampon diameter wouldn't be such an issue. You may need to replace the original barrel with something a little larger but that's not really such a big deal. If your only trying to launch a projectile 6ft or so into a crowd of spectators I doubt accuracy will be an important issue. Although you may want to increase the voltage going to the motors to give it a little more distance. You will most likely need to modify the magazine of the blaster you will be using so that the tampons won't jam or get caught.
Thanks for the responses. I must have gotten bad info from someone who felt bad about tossing money down for a more expensive version of basically the same thing. I was looking at a elite Reyvan today and it doesn’t even have the pointless rifling. I guess I'll get the N-Strike version.
You can stretch your FBR to fit the CPVC better. Sometime if I need a in between size I'll take 5/8” FBR and stretch it across the room with a bungee cord and and a length of the barrel I want it to fit. Then I will run along the length of the FBR with a hair dryer and slide the barrel along the FBR checking the fit as I go. You can do it with 1/2” FBR if you need something a touch smaller. Also you can toss your FBR blanks in the drier and check them periodically for fit as they will shrink a good deal.
I don't own a Arrowstorm but it's my experience that sometimes older Nerf guns can get stress marks on them from age. I have had several blasters that as they got older the plastic became brittle and developed stress marks. It may be the environmental factors for my area but that could be one explanation for the marks.
For most of my darts I use MD brand. It's not the best foam but at about $4 a pack it's hard to justify not trying it at least once. I find that it fits ˝ CPVC very well but like RVMVTV said buying it in store is best. Usually I take a small section of CPVC with me and check if the foam will fit before I buy. I find that there is a lot of variation between each package of foam. Sometimes it just slides through other times I can't even get it inside the barrels. Most of the time it's a good fit for springers.
Ask for self tapping screws for plastic when you go to the hardware store. If your local hardware store does not have the screws you need (because mine does not), do what everyone has been saying. If your not hot on killing a good blaster, try going to a thrift store like goodwill and buying a cheap gun for something like $2 and stealing the screws from that. If they don't have one here are some links to screws you can use from McMaster-Carr. You’ll get plenty of screws in case you loose some latter.
I would cover the stryfe in modeling clay and build the shape and details with the clay. Then I would build a mold using the clay model and plaster. Next up would be to cast a fiberglass shell inside the plaster mold and attach it to the stryfe.
Sometimes I paint in a heated storage unit that I'm renting. It makes for a nice place to store projects. If you really like painting you can get a small sealed paining booth that you could theoretically use inside your house as it seals most of the air inside the booth and filters the fumes with a large fan and filters. It's possible to make one if your really desperate.