- → Super0dp's Content
There have been 63 items by Super0dp (Search limited from 05-September 93)
IMG_20130130_135736 by Super0dp, on Flickr
A voltage modded barricade
IMG_20130130_135717 by Super0dp, on Flickr[/img]
Nerf MP7 equivalent
Stryfe with locks removed and 4 trustfires
IMG_20130130_135546 by Super0dp, on Flickr[/img]
Mad scientist pistol
IMG_20130130_135507 by Super0dp, on Flickr[/img]
Sorry about the picture quality, camera was acting up
Edit: yea sorry for talking about amazon again even though its in the forum already. but the prices were not talked about and so that is a good piece of info.
This is probably nigh on a necro but after having these motors die on me twice I had to ask. Has anyone else had a pair of these die after maybe 1-2 hours of total use? Both times I reopened my shell and tried spinning the flywheels just to see a huge amount of brush sparking through the endcap of the motors and maybe 50 RPM on the flywheels. I removed everything from the circuit but the rev switch and kept the stock 22 gauge wire. I ran them off of a 7.2V ni-cd pack most of the time and tested a 9.6V pack for a couple of minutes as well. I know nothing was burned out because I have since dropped stock motors again on the same wiring. After having the same thing happen twice I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just incredibly unlucky or if I've done something wrong both times.
The motors have "died" on me for several minutes on me after less than a minute of revving with three ultrafires and normal batteries, even with two dead batteries instead of the normal batteries it dies pretty fast. I have gone the route of one ultrafire and it works fine and I've kept it revving for a little under 5 minutes with no issues. How much use have your motors seen? Mine haven't seen that much.
This is most likely because the motors are brushed. We are putting these motors in situations never intended and they are burning out. If you can open the motor or find replacement brushes on the Internet you can fix them. All brushed motors were out at some point, these seam to wear out much faster than others.
Maybe 3 trust fires is too much? Maybe it is intended to run at stock voltage or a little more?
I'm looking for some higher quality Tamiya's to do some testing,
Tamya Plasma dash motors. SG nerf uses them to compare stock motors. I did a thread on them. Just search "Nerf gun motors, problems and solutions"
They are very good, I use them I'n my barricades. I run 9v on them and they work fine and have been for over 2 months now.
Thanks for the clarification - how would you folks go about opening up the Vortex range? What is it lacking? Did you folks like the Diatron internals? (Dual-disc technology)
In my opinion the diatom internals were terrible, only left handed priming and it was a massive pain to wield. To open the line up I think there should be a less clunky, less sucky full auto blaster. (the ntron was terrible) maybe a system like the praxis turned full auto?
Also, at 1.5 meters long, that is awful lot of barrel drag affecting the dart. Will the barrel be tight?
About the plunger design, I think a bolt-action (similar to longshot and longstrike) will better suit modders and XBLA 12yr COD looozers.
Iron sights? Damn.
I choose you, Duke Wintermaul as the leader of humanities last army.
also, If I had an E.A.T I would go diddle zombies and annoying 5 year olds with it,
Really man, you don't know how annoying and terrifying those 5 year olds are. It's crazy man.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
I choose you...
I know I am a little late to the game but I have some questions.
1. Write-up? You have made several improvements and I think all of us would like to see one.
2. Templates for the 3D printed parts? Files maybe?
3. What is the printer you are using to print the parts?
4. Could you tension the tubing more to produve better results?
Mainly because N-strike/elite clips require breaches, which have a tendency to jam. A belt would allow a much higher number of darts to be carried than in any clip, and any type of dart to be used if the belt system was designed for it. If it was made into a loop, it'd also allow reloading on the fly; it'd basically just be a flexible turret.
If it is going to be like a turret then you are essentially making a chain-blazer. One disadvantage of using chains would be carrying capacity, if you have 3 chains of 100 rounds each (one in the blaster, two on your vest or belt) you would have chains swinging around and it would be heavy. Even if you compacted them they would take up a lot of space. With a hopper/RCSB you could have the same 300 darts is a pouch or bandolier that would be 1/2 the weight and you could shove darts in several at a time, rather than reloading a whole chain.
Now, because this thread was started on hoppers, I think we should post about the original subject, not on potential reloading mechanisms.
I like Slug's design with the sliver of plastic to direct the dart, but I think we can print it in 1 piece or mod current wyes with wire or zip tie.
If we are going to make custom wyes, why not incorporate special features. Instead of going from PVC to ramp, why not incorporate a funnel to take advantage of the Venturi effect?
Or make holders on the side for extra barrels so if one gets jammed, you can switch it fast and not worry about clearing the jam until you are in a safe zone or after the battle?
I like the idea of different discs, especially the way the Revonix has the multi-cylinder drum,
you could have the Ranger++ in one cylinder, the Quick Shot in another and the regular in the third.
My theory is there are gears inside that the hammer turns as it's pulled down similar to the rough cut.
I think your mistaken, in the video the OP posted on his site the tester person pulled the hammer back, then pulled the trigger and fired a dart. there was no plunger priming or visual movement, just the hammer moving.
I have drawn up some concept sketches of how I think the design might go. The ring of pipes you can see will all hold dart tip-to-tail, like a hopper but bigger. This is obviously a very rough sketch, I made it just now.
Great, you made a PowerStrike 48
I advise you use a magazine instead of a turret like thing, makes reloading easier.
You could cut off the magwell of a recon/retaliator or a rampage to use.
Stop posting in old threads that no one cares about anymore. Reread the Code of Conduct and New Members Guide.
Maybe shooting your friends with toxic heavy metals is a slight step backwards? Not to mention that everyone pretty much gave up on these.... In April. When they were shown to break apart on impact. And possibly injure people. WITHOUT ALSO GIVING THEM LEAD POISONING.
I understand were your comming from but for a person (me)who is serious and cant make a slug, or a hot glue dome to save his life, it is a safe way to get accurate, well made darts and with a little experimentation I can find a safe alternitave to a washer. as for the breaking problem I tried silicon to seal the dart head and after several shots from a 4b at a brick wall the head did not break. This was my experiment and results. I was hoping to revive this dart because this is a great alternitave to slugs, hotglue domes and pre-formed dart heads. In no way was I trying to hurt anyone or piss anyone off. i hope you can understand that. As for the dart I found a way to prevent it from breaking: Use silicon to seal the head on the inside.
I am sorry to say that I have to change the date of the war. My flight was changed without notice and I'm unable to play on the 22nd. The war is now the 29th of June. The war date will not be modified again.
Damn, I cant make it now. The 22nd was right in between two trips I have planned. Sry
I'm pretty sure that no HVZ organizations allow stefans, so if that is the case, hoppering it is pointless, because streamline darts do not work in hoppers.
You could build a tagger hopper. Or you could use an RSCB.
Both options have high RoF and are easy to reload.
Anyway the blasters has some potential but maybe seem worth it just for re-fitting internals into those cool shells. the springs look small enough to come buy at Lowes or whatever. Might sacrifice on the one-handed capability. The vortex pistols are Hasbro's last chance to push a small vortex blaster.
I see potential, but it may not be worth it.
The darts that are packaged with the Range Master were stiffer and have a heavier tip than normal darts.
I find that darts packaged with 2012 early release (summer of 2012) elite products (refill packs, blasters and "mission kits") are stiffer than current darts.
, leather sounds a bit over the top and expensive in my opinion, but will look into your other suggestions,.
I buy a pack of random leather strips from hobby lobby and weave my own holster, the bag of strips has enough for like 3 maverick sized guns and only costs 5 bucks. It's strong, flexible and it's fun to make.
The quote thing messed up, I'm still learning.
Yep, and I've improved on the design. It works well enough I feel that it is very useful even though we all use hoppers and such.
Also, just posted a write up.
magnetic holsters are fine in all but for even cheeper you can use heat-bent pvc, just heat up a pot of water to a boil (it has to be a huge pot of water, atleast 8 in deep), cover the front shell of your blaster in silicone grease, dip the pvc in the water and form the pvc to the blaster. when its formed, dip the pvc, blaster and all into ice water. BOOM instant holster. you can drill holes into it and mount it however you like. i got this idea from a friend.
im freakin tired of the quote system messing up!
Cant wait till this comes to the U.S.
1. Is it moderatly heat resistant? (I.E. does it melt like crap foam)
2. What is the fit in PETG? (I am going to use it for an AT3K with 12" PETG barrels)
3. How dense is it? (Soft, Moderate, Hard)
Ryan's guide does not include Log Home Help foam.
If there is a similar thread about PETG I think this can slide.