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#336734 zombie strike crossfire singled coupler

Posted by azrael on 29 January 2014 - 04:12 AM in Modifications

You should reinforce or replace the support from the plunger pull back rod and the actual plunger rod. People have been breaking theirs with spring replacements.

#333030 You say Panther?

Posted by azrael on 14 August 2013 - 02:48 PM in General Nerf

The cool thing about the new Panthers is that it's much easier to get a clean separation and place the pump and blast button further from the tank.

#333396 Yet Another Wye Iteration

Posted by azrael on 23 August 2013 - 05:57 PM in Darts and Barrels

I always wondered how you got the insides so clean.

What printer are you using?

#333380 Yet Another Wye Iteration

Posted by azrael on 23 August 2013 - 10:22 AM in Darts and Barrels

Any idea when you'll have more wyes in stock?

EDIT: Woops, thought this was in the sales forum. My bad.

#333387 Yet Another Wye Iteration

Posted by azrael on 23 August 2013 - 02:46 PM in Darts and Barrels

Right, I'm familiar with the process, I have one for prototyping at work.
Do you have any support material on these?

#331560 Will Custom Darts Work in Stock Barrels?

Posted by azrael on 04 July 2013 - 10:26 AM in Darts and Barrels

^A very good point.
Foam like that will result in a tighter barrel fit for spring based blasters and thus have more even air delivery and a better air seal.

As for stefans being more accurate, I would say...it depends. Accuracy depends on a good amount of weight being forward loaded, around 1g.
I have had the best luck with 1.3g tips, as far as accuracy goes. Many types of stefans weigh 1g total, which IMO, is too light.

#331565 Will Custom Darts Work in Stock Barrels?

Posted by azrael on 04 July 2013 - 12:07 PM in Darts and Barrels

I think it depends on foam. The white foam I have from ben is light and less dense than MHA pink. Or maybe also the amount of hot glue used. Some people seem to use liquid nails, which allows for less gluing material. I just hoppered a BBBB, and that's my first hopper, and it works really well.
I'm using slugs with #8 washers, and they are pretty straight, but I haven't tested at long range, either. Right now MHA foam is a little tight for my PETG barrel, so I can't compare.

However, when using MHA foam and AMIOR style darts, I preferred my PAK D silicone tips with my 50mm dart length compared to normal or even 50mm AMIORs. When using my brassed bolt equipped EAT. Granted, the PAK D is a little thicker, but I dunno.
It could also be that springers and airguns work better with different kinds of dart tips.

I'm going off this thread, btw:
Some darts are coming in under a gram, and that's for total dart mass. I don't think that's enough.

#337831 Why do slug darts need to be made with washers?

Posted by azrael on 29 March 2014 - 11:37 AM in Darts and Barrels

I would think it's easier to center a washer than a ball bearing.

What kind of foam and washer are you using where you have exposed metal? 3/8" OD #6 washers should not be exposed with 1/2" foam.

#340189 Where to get PETG at pet store website

Posted by azrael on 09 July 2014 - 12:28 PM in Darts and Barrels

You're in the US, just buy it off McMaster. The proper parts number is in the darts and barrels forum, in the materials list, I believe.

#333056 Where can I find CPVC barrels for nerf guns?

Posted by azrael on 14 August 2013 - 10:39 PM in Darts and Barrels

Definitely bring a dart, not all brass is the same.
The 17/32" on McMaster is a great springer fit for stock darts.

#336836 What's a good replacement?

Posted by azrael on 03 February 2014 - 03:53 PM in Modifications

You could try sealing the leak.

Do you know where it's coming from?

#330458 What foam should I buy

Posted by azrael on 01 June 2013 - 05:31 PM in Darts and Barrels


#339168 Weird stampede issue

Posted by azrael on 26 May 2014 - 04:20 PM in Modifications

If you use a good battery, instead of wiring crappy 9vs in series, 16.8v is MORE than enough up to 12kg. By this I mean NiMH or LiPo or IMR. Not Trustfires or 9v - those batteries are poor choices for overvolting due to their poor current supply.

#330474 W.A.R.M.U.P.

Posted by azrael on 02 June 2013 - 02:31 AM in Nerf Wars

W - e
A - lways
R - ecommend
M - eeting
U - nder
P - retenses

When: June 15th 10:00 am - 4:30ish pm

Where: Santiago Park, Santa Ana

What to bring:
Money or food
A good attitude

The usual socal rules still apply.

Questions? post them here.

Never been to a Nerf War that's been organized within the NIC. What kind of blasters can I expect to see there?

Trying to get a feel for how prepared I would have to be, you know?

#330893 W.A.R.M.U.P.

Posted by azrael on 15 June 2013 - 12:48 AM in Nerf Wars

Won't be able to make since real life sucks balls.
Hope to see you all at Armageddon!

#330510 W.A.R.M.U.P.

Posted by azrael on 02 June 2013 - 10:42 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll try to be at this one. I think my dad wants to have a barbeque or something, but I'll see if he can move it to the next day.

Oh if you bring the tanks we talked about, I can buy them there. If I can convince my buddy to come with, that is haha.

You should expect to see less homemades than in most war photos from other parts of the country.

Some people even bring stock blasters and darts. Doesn't stop them from having fun though.

Oh cool. That's great. What kind of turnout do you get?
My friend and I use just modified Nerf blasters mostly. Higher spring load, brassed bolts. Modified flywheel setups. Getting an inkling to build a homemade though hahah.

#332434 Voltage upgrade = burning foam?

Posted by azrael on 28 July 2013 - 11:39 PM in Modifications

Athletic tape actually sounds like it would be much worse. Instead of just pealing off, it would leave a sticky mess on the flywheels.

I haven't done it, but it's not rubbery kind. I have seen it used on drum sticks and golf grips, myself. I don't know the proper name for it.

#332424 Voltage upgrade = burning foam?

Posted by azrael on 28 July 2013 - 08:29 PM in Modifications

Plastidip eventually peels off too. I believe some people are using athletic tspe now.

#338468 Voltage Modded Stampede problem... It keeps going, and going, and goin

Posted by azrael on 24 April 2014 - 12:56 PM in Modifications

It's not all about voltage, remember. You need a decent current discharge, because as you increase voltage, there is a proportional increase in current demand.

#338432 Voltage Modded Stampede problem... It keeps going, and going, and goin

Posted by azrael on 23 April 2014 - 01:11 AM in Modifications

Well, FWIW, Trustfires are crap for this application. Better batteries will make it run better. BUT. For many people, there is a bit you need to shave to make it work with better batteries. It's a whole thing to get into. So in that respect, Trustfires can work here.

I can run mine off 4s/16.8v, with a LiPo battery, with around 9-11kg spring resistance, FWIW.
You're absolutely going to need to put in the upgraded spring if you up the voltage. That will honestly probably solve your problem. Run is 3s, with the new spring.

#338418 Voltage Modded Stampede problem... It keeps going, and going, and goin

Posted by azrael on 22 April 2014 - 07:31 PM in Modifications

Did you replace the spring? Using the stock spring will usually give you a Runaway Stampede.

#334325 Voltage in Flywheel Blasters

Posted by azrael on 29 September 2013 - 04:13 AM in General Nerf

I would say that 1.5V is not a significant different between the two, most likely.

#331325 Using rapid recharger for power source?

Posted by azrael on 27 June 2013 - 12:53 PM in Modifications

Do you know what the voltage is on these things?
How much are they?

If it's like a USB, which would make sense, it would be 5V.

EDIT: Looks like it can supply 800-1000mA depending on who makes it. I don't know if that's a continuous figure or max rating or what.

#331323 Using rapid recharger for power source?

Posted by azrael on 27 June 2013 - 12:51 PM in Modifications

If it's anything like an actual USB port on a PC, the current supply limitation is 500mA. Stall current for motors is almost certainly more than that.

You're better off getting a 2s LiPo or NiCD pack with a high mAH. As I recall, you're not overvolting it, really, right?

For example, I use a 1s LiPo with my Stryfe and it lasts forever. 4300mAH (I had a 6000mAH before, haha).

#334489 Ultrafire 14500 protected issues

Posted by azrael on 05 October 2013 - 12:01 AM in General Nerf

Protected cells have a PCB that limits the the current.

You can actually rip it off, and it will be fine.

#343797 Trustfire IMR Batteries?!?!

Posted by azrael on 31 December 2014 - 06:57 PM in Modifications

14500 cells do not have the current capabilities for 180s. Those take a lot of current.

Just look at the difference in discharge rates for an eFest (8c) and a LiPo. Huge difference.

#333862 Tight barrels/ Loose barrels?

Posted by azrael on 08 September 2013 - 08:14 PM in Darts and Barrels

The basic idea is that we use tight fit barrels for springers because we need the system to build up enough pressure to generate enough kinetic energy to break the coefficient of static friction.

In an air blaster, the tank stores air, meaning that the air in that system is already at its maximum pressure. A loose fit will take the most advantage of this stored energy.

#333331 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 21 August 2013 - 12:20 PM in Modifications

I'm using unprotected (gray) trustfire batteries.

Testing the solder joints, they provide negligible resistance alongside the metal plates, though I don't know if this is relevant.

When firing with 6 D batteries, the voltage across the two panels on the battery sled dips slightly from 9 to about 8. When attempting to fire with the trustfire batteries, it drops to 0 volts.

That is a VERY clear indication that your AA tray does not work, either because of your solder, or because of the tray.

Dude, as already pointed out, your battery connector is connected to the battery sled in the wrong polarity.

The black wire should go to the spring.
The red wire to the tab.

There is no thermistor in the battery sled.

It should not matter if you solder the wires to the spring and tab, so long as the join is good and clean.

No other electrical mods are needed unless you want to remove all of the locks.

Wrong, the spring has a high resistance, and should not be soldered to. Excessive current draw can cause it to light on fire. This is a well documented problem with battery springs. Ideally, battery trays shouldn't use springs at all.

#333158 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 17 August 2013 - 01:17 PM in Modifications

Are you sure that the battery tray is even providing any power? Haven't heard confirmation that you measured the right voltage at the battery contact.

#333167 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 17 August 2013 - 05:08 PM in Modifications

The voltage measures correctly when measured where? At the point where it contacts the Stampede?

And the solder isn't about age, it's about technique and what type of solder it is. Still haven't mentioned the type of soldering iron (wattage mostly) and solder alloy.
If your technique isn't good, your solder joints will not be good. I can't tell from that pic is your solder joints are good, but it looks like the solder did not wet on the contact at all. Meaning not really all that good.

EDIT: Wait, what batteries are you using? Are they unprotected or protected Trustfores? Protected ones will not work.

#333497 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 27 August 2013 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

.1 ohms is pretty huge, IMO.
I doubt that is what it is, though.
I don't know the dimensions of the spring, and I don't really care too much, but here's some math from a flashlight forum:

Looking at #24 gauge bare copper wire which has almost the same
diameter as 0.022 inch wire, the resistance for 1000 ft is 20.8 ohms.
For 1 foot, it's 0.0208, and for 1 inch it's 0.001733 ohms.

The length of the helix is approx:
L=4.5 turns times 0.375 inches times pi=5.3 inches.

The increase in length due to the helix over the
circumference is only about 0.2 percent, so this increase
will be ignored.

5.3 inches times 0.001733 equals 0.00918 ohms total for a copper spring.

Knowing that the resistivity of SS is about 42.4 times higher than
copper, multiplying the total resistance times 42.4 gives us an
estimate of the total resistance of the SS spring.

R(SS)=0.00918 times 42.4 which equals 0.39 ohms total.

This number indicates something went wrong with the previous
calculation done in the previous post. I suggest checking
it for an error involving the conversion factors. Since rho
is given in ohm-cm i suggest working entirely in cm and cm^2
and redo the calculations.

That should give you an idea, at least.

You are underestimating stall current, meaning the current that a motor uses when it starts moving. It can be pretty big, depending on how many volts you're feeding the motor. As you increase the voltage, the current demanded by the motor increases too.

It's a pretty well documented phenomenon in in flashlight forums. MY WIRE wouldn't catch fire under those circumstances, I use teflon insulated stuff, it's pretty tough stuff. Also, my spring HAS gotten hot enough to catch flame. I had to put out my Stampede - this happened to me. Why doubt me?
I don't know anything about yours. I've used slightly higher gauges of this teflon insulated wire in robotic builds that consume over 100A at stall current. And it was fine. :)
You might be fine because Trustfires are honestly terrible batteries that cannot supply the current that these motors need. They have a poor discharge rating. If you use something that actually gives the motor what it needs, it is a different story. My rate of fire is higher than most 4s (16.8v) Stampedes I have seen with a similar spring load (I am approaching 10-11kg).

#333520 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 28 August 2013 - 01:32 AM in Modifications

The issue is the spring, just don't use the stupid battery tray contacts hahaha. That's all it comes down to.
Or at least solder to the metal plate and not the spring. Or solder a crap load of wire or something to the spring to increase the area. That will reduce resistance.

As far as trustfires doing that, I would say that's more due to overdischarging the cell or shorting the battery. Trustfires have terrible current discharge rates. Well below what most powerful motors need at stall. When using any kind of powerful battery, you should always install a simple LED voltmeter to prevent overdischarge.

#333046 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 14 August 2013 - 06:46 PM in Modifications

FWIW, I don't recommend soldering to those springs. I guess you're limited by the Trustfire's crappy current supply, but one time, I was lazy - the battery spring got so hot that it turned red and started smoking.
Not that a AA tray's battery retention springs are any better haha.

Your most obvious test since you have a multimeter is to make the tray functions. Are you measuring 16.8 volts from it on a full charge?

#333159 The Stampede that Stood Still

Posted by azrael on 17 August 2013 - 01:18 PM in Modifications

EDIT: Woops, double post.
Let's make it useful, at least.

Are you sure there's no corrosion or anything that could mess up the contacts? Have you considered that you may have a cold solder joint? Cold solder joints are a poor electrical connection.
What solder and soldering iron did you use?

#338068 The Rayven Dual-stage mod

Posted by azrael on 06 April 2014 - 04:04 AM in Modifications

Did you chrony it with that barrel extension on?

#331047 The Difference Between Knowledge and Understanding

Posted by azrael on 19 June 2013 - 11:15 AM in Off Topic

I think it definitely depends on the kind of person you are. Before I attempt any mod, I think about the pros and cons, and the physics behind it. I think that's important, and helps you understand why you're doing something. In that way, you can learn from write ups and apply core concepts to different blasters.

I love the physics documents that Doom wrote up, I was stoked to find that. There should be more of a scientific approach to things, at least in testing.

For me, the biggest advantage of write ups is less leg work. I can see what has been done, learn what materials to use and where I can buy them. I can learn from both past triumphs and mistakes.

#331140 [WIP] Stampede ACB, the Arduino-powered Stampede ECS

Posted by azrael on 22 June 2013 - 10:35 AM in Modifications

I would probably use a transistor like a BS170 to drive the relay, and have the Arduino control that. If it's 5V logic (Never used the UNO) then just use 5V relays and power the BS170 with 5V.

#331079 [WIP] Stampede ACB, the Arduino-powered Stampede ECS

Posted by azrael on 20 June 2013 - 12:55 PM in Modifications

Where the heck are you thinking of mounting it? Haha.
If you're thinking about the barrel, it doesn't really matter if you seal it right. Besides, any "air loss" argument is moot if you haven't done a full seal bolt/barrel setup with something like brass, anyway. Tons or air being lost from that big old plunger in that case.

also, this.

#331072 [WIP] Stampede ACB, the Arduino-powered Stampede ECS

Posted by azrael on 20 June 2013 - 11:19 AM in Modifications

WIP threeads aren't generally allowed so this probably won't stay open for too long, but cool I guess?
I don't know that a switch to detect plunger travel will work all that well, maybe an IR sensor? That's how I would do it.

There's been other builds that use Arduinos for ammo counting, so it's not the first "Arduino powered" mod.

#331101 [WIP] Stampede ACB, the Arduino-powered Stampede ECS

Posted by azrael on 20 June 2013 - 11:56 PM in Modifications

Well google lied to me then. >:|

But I suppose mine is a lot more compact than the top result. As for your other question if air is meaningless here then there's a nice empty space below the barrel perfect for a small sensor. Figure if I seal it up with some acrylic there shouldn't be too much of a loss.

And Zorn, you can close the topic if you'd like. I wasn't aware that logs were extremely erotic here.

I just don't understand how there isn't TONS of space. You only need a 5mm IR LED and a 5mm phototransistor. That's tiny. There's plenty of places to mount them that will register a complete cycle, if you add the correct delay to allow for spring return and such.