Ya, that was the final straw for mine to work on 16.8V.
Keola, you don't need to reduce the spring load. Should be fine once the current is flowing properly.
And when I mentioned the voltmeter, I meant a simple LED one from eBay. Costs like 5 bucks, and is powered by the device it is measuring.
azrael's Content
There have been 318 items by azrael (Search limited from 03-December 96)
#333283 Stampede voltage upgrade issue
Posted by
on 20 August 2013 - 11:33 AM
in
Modifications
#333253 Has anybody gone far enough to create a Vortex Homemade?
Posted by
on 19 August 2013 - 07:39 PM
in
Homemades
Actually, if you search, there have been people making home made vortex discs on NerfHaven.
#333252 Stampede voltage upgrade issue
Posted by
on 19 August 2013 - 07:36 PM
in
Modifications
You'll want to bypass the thermistor and remove the protected PCB from the trustfires. It's quite easy. Carefully cut the label off, and peel away that plastic cover. You'll see a PCB pad on the flat side. Just rip it off.
I order the wrong kind of Trustfire for testing, and had to do that.
The reason being that at stall, for heavy spring loads, the Stampede will ask for a lot of current. Protection circuits severely limit the burst current a battery can provide. Just don't over discharge your battery (installing a voltmeter can help with this. I'll be posting a guide at some point with some electronic blaster accessories like that.) and it will be safe.
Thermistors also limit the current flow, increasing their resistance as greater and greater currents travel through them, as heat dissipation of power causes them to increase in resistance. This chokes your current flow.
Motors pull a lot of current when working to the max of their torque, like when you start one up. This is called stall current.
Your blaster sounds like it's working, but then the thermistor kicks in and limits the current flow to the motors.
I order the wrong kind of Trustfire for testing, and had to do that.
The reason being that at stall, for heavy spring loads, the Stampede will ask for a lot of current. Protection circuits severely limit the burst current a battery can provide. Just don't over discharge your battery (installing a voltmeter can help with this. I'll be posting a guide at some point with some electronic blaster accessories like that.) and it will be safe.
Thermistors also limit the current flow, increasing their resistance as greater and greater currents travel through them, as heat dissipation of power causes them to increase in resistance. This chokes your current flow.
Motors pull a lot of current when working to the max of their torque, like when you start one up. This is called stall current.
Your blaster sounds like it's working, but then the thermistor kicks in and limits the current flow to the motors.
#333247 Stampede voltage upgrade issue
Posted by
on 19 August 2013 - 05:47 PM
in
Modifications
Unprotected trustfires, right? Did you remove the thermistor? I forget where it's located though.
#333167 The Stampede that Stood Still
Posted by
on 17 August 2013 - 05:08 PM
in
Modifications
The voltage measures correctly when measured where? At the point where it contacts the Stampede?
And the solder isn't about age, it's about technique and what type of solder it is. Still haven't mentioned the type of soldering iron (wattage mostly) and solder alloy.
If your technique isn't good, your solder joints will not be good. I can't tell from that pic is your solder joints are good, but it looks like the solder did not wet on the contact at all. Meaning not really all that good.
EDIT: Wait, what batteries are you using? Are they unprotected or protected Trustfores? Protected ones will not work.
And the solder isn't about age, it's about technique and what type of solder it is. Still haven't mentioned the type of soldering iron (wattage mostly) and solder alloy.
If your technique isn't good, your solder joints will not be good. I can't tell from that pic is your solder joints are good, but it looks like the solder did not wet on the contact at all. Meaning not really all that good.
EDIT: Wait, what batteries are you using? Are they unprotected or protected Trustfores? Protected ones will not work.
#333159 The Stampede that Stood Still
Posted by
on 17 August 2013 - 01:18 PM
in
Modifications
EDIT: Woops, double post.
Let's make it useful, at least.
Are you sure there's no corrosion or anything that could mess up the contacts? Have you considered that you may have a cold solder joint? Cold solder joints are a poor electrical connection.
What solder and soldering iron did you use?
Let's make it useful, at least.
Are you sure there's no corrosion or anything that could mess up the contacts? Have you considered that you may have a cold solder joint? Cold solder joints are a poor electrical connection.
What solder and soldering iron did you use?
#333158 The Stampede that Stood Still
Posted by
on 17 August 2013 - 01:17 PM
in
Modifications
Are you sure that the battery tray is even providing any power? Haven't heard confirmation that you measured the right voltage at the battery contact.
#333139 NERF Rapidstrike CS-18 Battery Mod
Posted by
on 16 August 2013 - 07:27 PM
in
Modifications
That's pretty good. I wasn't sure how much it was rated for, I can only see one side after all, and it doesn't look that big. Most toggles I have seen that are a wee bit smaller are only rated for 2A, so yeah.
I wasn't doubting your work, just mentioning a point of interest people need to take into consideration.
I wasn't doubting your work, just mentioning a point of interest people need to take into consideration.
#333120 NERF Rapidstrike CS-18 Battery Mod
Posted by
on 16 August 2013 - 01:21 PM
in
Modifications
LinkMT, actually, other people have done similar things to other blasters. You will need a switch rated for the appropriate amount of stall current though, so it doesn't blow.
I'll see if I can measure the stall and continuous current at high voltages soon.
I'll see if I can measure the stall and continuous current at high voltages soon.
#333105 Stampede voltage upgrade issue
Posted by
on 16 August 2013 - 02:04 AM
in
Modifications
Did you cut down that spring? How is the compressed size of that thing even catching haha.
Your white pin spring replacement is the a different solution to the same problem I had. The white think needs to catch on the bolt as late as possible. With the weak spring, or with how tall it is, it catches on the bolt far too easily.
Your white pin spring replacement is the a different solution to the same problem I had. The white think needs to catch on the bolt as late as possible. With the weak spring, or with how tall it is, it catches on the bolt far too easily.
#333064 Stampede voltage upgrade issue
Posted by
on 15 August 2013 - 09:24 AM
in
Modifications
I'm running my Stampede with a 16.8v LiPo battery, using an 9kg SGNerf spring and a stock retaliator spring. Used a stronger catch spring, too. Catch return spring or whatever was fine. Make sure all your springs are aligned correctly.
I still ended up getting bump fire or runaway stampede syndrome or whatever.
I ended up shaving a mm or two off the top of the white piece that moves. This prevented it from bouncing onto the trigger switch. Just keep shaving off tiny amounts, you want to take off the minimum amount necessary. Sand, then test. Rinse, repeat.
I still ended up getting bump fire or runaway stampede syndrome or whatever.
I ended up shaving a mm or two off the top of the white piece that moves. This prevented it from bouncing onto the trigger switch. Just keep shaving off tiny amounts, you want to take off the minimum amount necessary. Sand, then test. Rinse, repeat.
#333056 Where can I find CPVC barrels for nerf guns?
Posted by
on 14 August 2013 - 10:39 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Definitely bring a dart, not all brass is the same.
The 17/32" on McMaster is a great springer fit for stock darts.
The 17/32" on McMaster is a great springer fit for stock darts.
#333046 The Stampede that Stood Still
Posted by
on 14 August 2013 - 06:46 PM
in
Modifications
FWIW, I don't recommend soldering to those springs. I guess you're limited by the Trustfire's crappy current supply, but one time, I was lazy - the battery spring got so hot that it turned red and started smoking.
Not that a AA tray's battery retention springs are any better haha.
Your most obvious test since you have a multimeter is to make the tray functions. Are you measuring 16.8 volts from it on a full charge?
Not that a AA tray's battery retention springs are any better haha.
Your most obvious test since you have a multimeter is to make the tray functions. Are you measuring 16.8 volts from it on a full charge?
#333030 You say Panther?
Posted by
on 14 August 2013 - 02:48 PM
in
General Nerf
The cool thing about the new Panthers is that it's much easier to get a clean separation and place the pump and blast button further from the tank.
#332993 I'm Hoping to Avoid Feeling Overwhelmed
Posted by
on 13 August 2013 - 09:24 PM
in
Homemades
Don't forget that many old school air guns from Nerf like the Supermaxx or Airtech series, or even the air powered Buzzbee blasters can be modified into a NIC war worthy blaster, and I would argue that it might be less work for a less experienced DIYer than building a homemade blaster.
#332906 On a Quest for Better Stefan Range
Posted by
on 11 August 2013 - 09:49 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
If anything, a longer rear makes the the rear more heavy, no? Haha.Correct, but my simple knowledge of physics makes me assume with the front weight to rear weight ratio is too disproportionate.
The reason why we have gravitated towards shorter darts (other than capacity) is because shorter dart lengths have less drag on them, this can fly a bit further. However, there is a trade off, IMO, since darts are also a drag stabilized projectile.
#332902 On a Quest for Better Stefan Range
Posted by
on 11 August 2013 - 07:53 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
You want a heavier front, that's what makes darts flight stable.I'm no veteran but I believe that it's the length of your stefan that is affecting it's flight.
Stefans are usually only 1.5" in length because that's the optimal size to balance with the #6 washer and felt tip. At 3 inches the front is much heavier than the rear causing it to dive bomb.
Toast, if you bought from Kane, he explicitly says not to use them with metal. So stahp.
#332823 Nerf Mega Centurion Mod
Posted by
on 09 August 2013 - 05:05 PM
in
Modifications
TBH, I don't see why a reverse plunger is all that different from a normal direct plunger. The reason why the reverse plungers generally suck is because in stuff like the Maverick or Recon, they are moving a very small amount of air. That's why those blasters have small ranges and small potential for mods.
#332822 CPVC or PETG for barrels?
Posted by
on 09 August 2013 - 05:00 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
What darts are you using? Generally PETG is used for blasters where you need a loose fit. Springers generally need a tighter dart fit to build the pressure needed to shoot a dart.
#332631 Silicone domes
Posted by
on 02 August 2013 - 03:35 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
The eraser head darts I made worked pretty well at Armageddon, very soft tips compared to hot glue. I felt some silicon domes, the non cornstarch ones that mysterio made were pretty soft, I didn't mind them at all. The ones that hurt were some old poorly made hot glue domes, and some old slugs made with #8 washers, that were in the community dart bin.
I couldn't get AMIORs to work well in my PETG BBBB, but I'm told that's normal?
I couldn't get AMIORs to work well in my PETG BBBB, but I'm told that's normal?
#332629 Question on modding the rapidstrike cs-18
Posted by
on 02 August 2013 - 02:23 PM
in
Modifications
TBH, it's probably better to remove them if you plan to do any sort of overvoltage mod at all. I can't imagine the SMD capacitors there are rated for much voltage at all.
#332543 Powerstock on a Elite Alpha Trooper
Posted by
on 31 July 2013 - 03:40 PM
in
Modifications
I haven't always found adding a spring a good idea, sometime they mess with the way a spring compresses.This seems like a lot of work when you can just add another spring or find a replacement.
I've got a 7kg in mine right now, but I'd like to try a power stock in addition to it.
#332521 C.V.A.S.P.
Posted by
on 31 July 2013 - 01:58 AM
in
Homemades
Hah, I hear that. infamous and I never get anything done as a result of LoL.
Also, I'll be that guy: approximate ranges?
Also, I'll be that guy: approximate ranges?
#332519 C.V.A.S.P.
Posted by
on 31 July 2013 - 01:23 AM
in
Homemades
Very cool, always cool to see something different, I'd love to see a demo video.
#332434 Voltage upgrade = burning foam?
Posted by
on 28 July 2013 - 11:39 PM
in
Modifications
I haven't done it, but it's not rubbery kind. I have seen it used on drum sticks and golf grips, myself. I don't know the proper name for it.Athletic tape actually sounds like it would be much worse. Instead of just pealing off, it would leave a sticky mess on the flywheels.
#332424 Voltage upgrade = burning foam?
Posted by
on 28 July 2013 - 08:29 PM
in
Modifications
Plastidip eventually peels off too. I believe some people are using athletic tspe now.
#332410 Silicone domes
Posted by
on 28 July 2013 - 04:16 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
What do you think is an optimal durometer? I have seen stuff like this on McMaster, was thinking about checking it out.The durometer of them is way too hard for our use. Ryan did some testing with these a while back. There are just too many things wrong with them.
#332399 The BEST upgrade motor for the Stryfe (after extensive testing) is...
Posted by
on 28 July 2013 - 12:52 PM
in
Modifications
Have you guys been reading about the failures? Just wanna make sure you're aware that many people have had brush failures with these motors.
#332335 The BEST upgrade motor for the Stryfe (after extensive testing) is...
Posted by
on 26 July 2013 - 03:43 AM
in
Modifications
Not that insane, the Tamiyas I use are like 23k+ RPM. Dunno exactly since they're slightly overvolted.
#332020 A Better Alternative to Spade Bits
Posted by
on 17 July 2013 - 10:22 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
I actually used a dremel on my first hopper. Worked great for that smooth bore.
#331992 Issues with the OMW spring for the E.A.T.
Posted by
on 16 July 2013 - 03:13 PM
in
Modifications
Try nesting the original spring with the OMW catch spring.
#331964 Issues with the OMW spring for the E.A.T.
Posted by
on 15 July 2013 - 05:26 PM
in
Modifications
I am using a 7kg spring, with a doubled/nested catch spring. Haven't had any issues since I doubled it.
#331882 Re-barreled Rough Cut
Posted by
on 13 July 2013 - 03:18 PM
in
Modifications
I think I've using a 5-6kg Swarmfire spring. Anymore is too much for the gearing system, IMO.We believe it is a combination of dead space and low spring power. The plunger rods are odd and only let a very small tolerance for the width of the spring. So we are experimenting with that.
#331880 Re-barreled Rough Cut
Posted by
on 13 July 2013 - 02:52 PM
in
Modifications
Have you considered using a dremel to cut the brass stubs rather than a pipe cutter? I've always hated the bevel pipe cutters leave.
I had similar results when I rebarreled a Strongarm with polyester tubing, in an attempt to make it rear loading. I only did one, and my range reduction was not as huge, but the stock barrel still performed better.
EDIT: NM, I see you're using the brass as a dart stopper. Is the flaw in this setup, then, a large amount of deadspace?
I had similar results when I rebarreled a Strongarm with polyester tubing, in an attempt to make it rear loading. I only did one, and my range reduction was not as huge, but the stock barrel still performed better.
EDIT: NM, I see you're using the brass as a dart stopper. Is the flaw in this setup, then, a large amount of deadspace?
#331878 Messed up Longshot
Posted by
on 13 July 2013 - 01:52 PM
in
Modifications
If you're able to, just buy a new stock plunger. I believe Remedy Metal sells stock LS hardware.
#331806 New Nerf Line?
Posted by
on 11 July 2013 - 07:00 PM
in
General Nerf
Elite is much better than the N-Strike line, that's for sure..
#331804 New Nerf Line?
Posted by
on 11 July 2013 - 06:47 PM
in
General Nerf
Too OP for the style of gameplay I usually have hah. So I usually have the Stryfe and something that's primed for at least one shot so I don't have to keep motors revved.
#331788 New Nerf Line?
Posted by
on 11 July 2013 - 02:32 PM
in
General Nerf
Resembles the Dart Tag Snapfire 8, actually, IMO.The cocking mechanism is certainly new for Nerf, as far as I know. That alone makes it worth picking up and stripping down, especially if it lies in the >$15 range.
I like it because it's actually a viable secondary, being that it be primed with one hand. I wouldn't mind carrying that around in one hand, with a Stryfe in the other.
Dual Wielding should be cool, too! For those who do indoor or office wars, should be neat.
#331601 Armageddon XIV
Posted by
on 05 July 2013 - 11:49 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Okay, awesome. Having trouble finding safety goggles that vent well and don't fog.
I might be using snickers/makeitgo style stefans with my hoppered BBBB (unplugged). Couldn't get it to feed right with felt tipped slugs or AMIORS, maybe youse guys there can shed some light on that.
I might be using snickers/makeitgo style stefans with my hoppered BBBB (unplugged). Couldn't get it to feed right with felt tipped slugs or AMIORS, maybe youse guys there can shed some light on that.
#331599 Armageddon XIV
Posted by
on 05 July 2013 - 11:42 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Out of curiosity, do glasses count for eye protection?
