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#337263 Pressure Range of Blasters

Posted by azrael on 24 February 2014 - 03:58 PM in General Nerf

It's often times an unstated rule anymore. Basically anything that runs off of a regulator and a hard air tank isn't allowed at most wars.

I think that's a bit silly though. A well made air blaster can be just as safe or safer than a powerful springer.
You just need to apply proper safety to construction.



#337144 Stefan Clips

Posted by azrael on 19 February 2014 - 05:53 PM in General Nerf

You could always make your own.
http://modworks.blog...t-clip-mod.html



#336990 S.C.U.N.P.R.E.P.

Posted by azrael on 11 February 2014 - 08:20 PM in Nerf Wars

I think I'll be there, +3.



#336902 Source for "Redline" CPVC?

Posted by azrael on 06 February 2014 - 09:11 PM in Darts and Barrels

Oh yeah, I forgot to follow up on this. I bought the butyrate a little while ago, and I'm pretty happy with it. I think it'll do, in place of the redline.



#336836 What's a good replacement?

Posted by azrael on 03 February 2014 - 03:53 PM in Modifications

You could try sealing the leak.

Do you know where it's coming from?



#336750 blacklight responsive nerf

Posted by azrael on 30 January 2014 - 04:28 AM in Modifications

Putting in UV or even just blue LEDs in any blaster will let you make a glowing dart. There's plenty of room in the Elite line of blasters for internal LEDs.



#336734 zombie strike crossfire singled coupler

Posted by azrael on 29 January 2014 - 04:12 AM in Modifications

You should reinforce or replace the support from the plunger pull back rod and the actual plunger rod. People have been breaking theirs with spring replacements.



#336518 Nesting PVC/CPVC/Thin Wall Questions

Posted by azrael on 17 January 2014 - 12:28 PM in Homemades

You can try ordering off McMaster. Their 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID butyrate tubing is really consistent. It's perfect for my darts.



#336502 Release of a New Type of Ammo??

Posted by azrael on 16 January 2014 - 01:31 AM in General Nerf

By "muzzle blast" i'm assuming you're talking about springers and air-powered blasters...

While firing overvolted Stryfes across an open basketball court I noticed that most of my (almost mint) N-Strike Elite darts would travel straight for about 30 ft. and then abruptly curve off in one direction, almost like a kicked or thrown ball that had some spin on it. Although the inside of the Stryfe barrel is rifled i'm skeptical that this leads to any spin of the dart and the initially straight trajectory tells me that whatever's going on happens to the dart in-flight.

While I have a limited number of Elites at the moment I plan on somehow sealing the holes in a few and testing them. Hell, I might even do a write-up. Unless someone has done it before and I haven't found that post.

EDIT: for completeness

You know, a lot of people complain about Stryfe accuracy, but mine works really well in an area with no wind.

The barrel should never cause spin unless the dart hits it, which, ideally, it should never do.



#336470 Short Barreled AT2K

Posted by azrael on 13 January 2014 - 10:32 AM in Darts and Barrels

With one of roboman's turrets, it's not bad at all.

The reason I wouldn't use short barrels is that it won't be accurate, there'll be a lot of excess muzzle blast. The "unused" air will just throw the dart off course. I say unused because larger barrels are used so that way all the pumped air is used to accelerate a dart.

Not plugging the OPRV, even simply plugging it, but not pumping that much is an easy way to keep ranges normal.



#336371 AT2K goo gauge removal

Posted by azrael on 06 January 2014 - 08:22 PM in Modifications

I just reinforced my AT2K tank with fiberglass mesh and resin and epoxy putty. Was super easy to do, definitely consider doing it for the stock tank.



#336362 Measuring Accuracy

Posted by azrael on 06 January 2014 - 03:23 PM in General Nerf

Human error introduces a lot of different variables in testing precision, and especially range. I don't see how you can conduct an experiment where you get meaningful results without taking out these variables.



#336270 Source for "Redline" CPVC?

Posted by azrael on 02 January 2014 - 02:41 PM in Darts and Barrels

I believe it has the same dimensions as "clear cpvc" on mcmaster.

I keep on forgetting about that. I remember I experimented with the polyester one, I'll measure the ID to see if it compares. I have been meaning to order the butyrate to try it out.



#336269 Commonly banned blasters/ Mods

Posted by azrael on 02 January 2014 - 02:37 PM in General Nerf

Alright, thanks guys this has been very helpful. Jaynerf thanks for the advice, we're definatly not allowing stefans and were planning on using a similar method to yours for testing modified blasters (we shoot the blaster user and a commitee member), so its nice to know that someone else is using it. Again, thanks for the help, any other tips you may have would be appreciated.

Edit: azrael thanks for the advice about the chronometer, it may come in handy if we're not allowed to do pain tests.

Pain tests are the worst. People can be such pussies sometimes. :P



#336264 Source for "Redline" CPVC?

Posted by azrael on 02 January 2014 - 12:40 PM in Darts and Barrels

Does anyone know where to buy this? I used to get it from FunkyMotherFacko, but he's no longer active.
I like it, as it has a slightly looser ID than normal CPVC, and seems more consistent in terms of QC.



#336202 Commonly banned blasters/ Mods

Posted by azrael on 31 December 2013 - 05:13 PM in General Nerf

An easy way to determine what's safe is to simply use a chronometer. Anything that shoots over 100-110 is probably more than most people would like in a stock type war using stock darts.



#336201 I reproduced Stampede ECS gears, and "hello"

Posted by azrael on 31 December 2013 - 05:07 PM in Modifications

Wow, very cool! I'm down to help test them with higher springs. I think I have around 11kg in my Stampede right now.



#336039 Barricade Ext-battery mod

Posted by azrael on 25 December 2013 - 12:37 AM in Modifications

If anything I would think that having a reading disability would only push you to correct yourself more than a normal person, rather than use your condition like a crutch or excuse.

FWIW, I don't think using a 1/4" plug is a good idea. Too easy to short a battery, with how jacks work. I recommend using a proper power connector.



#335945 Nerf Rayven Tuneup (~Write up)

Posted by azrael on 15 December 2013 - 12:59 PM in Modifications

Afterburner is something I've seen people call a the mod where you add a second set of flywheels.



#335938 Nerf Rayven Tuneup (~Write up)

Posted by azrael on 14 December 2013 - 08:52 PM in Modifications

This is superb! From an electrical side, its very very impressive. The only thing I would recommend would be getting a better battery to run the flywheels. Seeing how much work you've sank into this blaster, I feel it could benefit from an internally housed LiPo. I recommend a 2s or similar with a good discharge rate; the windup on a good discharge battery is nonexistent.

But overall, mad props! Just kinda sad the ammo counter site is out of stock now.

The eFests are not bad, when paralleled. They have about 1200-1300 mAH, and a discharge rate of 8C. So they can put out about 10A continuous, give or take. I am sure they have twice that for burst. Any LiPo that will fit internally will be around the same specs.

Now, the second set of flywheels should be run off something better than a 9V, for sure. I think even another pair of eFests, but in series, should be really good. 9Vs are terrible batteries.


An ammo counter is a simple thing to build yourself if you just have infrared emitters and detectors and a micrcontroller, like say, an Arduino Mini Pro or something.


EDIT: Nice job on the afterburners, didn't know you were doing that. I'd like to try that some time.
Any chance you can have access to some kind of chronometer? I would trust fps numbers much more than ranges.



#335929 Stryfe problems

Posted by azrael on 14 December 2013 - 12:17 PM in Modifications

He definitely tripped the thermistor. The entire function of the thermistor is to shut down the blaster when an abundance of voltage is detected. You know, kids toy and all that.

I find it odd that you have a strye 'commission' and didn't know about the thermistor.

It's actually when an excess amount of power is dissipated and the thermistor gets hot. The hotter it gets, the higher the resistance, until the motors won't go because they can't get enough power through the resistance.

OP, you will probably have to rewire a lot of things. It's also possible you jammed it and broke one of the electronic switches. They can't handle that much current.



#335908 M.O.A.R. N.E.W.T.O,Y.S. SoCal War January 4th in Corona

Posted by azrael on 12 December 2013 - 07:09 PM in Nerf Wars

What about flywheels? How is overvolting perceived as far as this level of modding goes?



#335886 Release of a New Type of Ammo??

Posted by azrael on 09 December 2013 - 05:25 PM in General Nerf

I'm wondering if with these you could cut off the suction tip and have a solid tip elite. Without an air hole thy might be much more accurate.

EDIT: I think if they are good quality and in fact are more accurate they will be well worth Hasbros time. I know i'll be cleaning out shelves of them.

a test was recently conducted which seemed to suggest that inaccuracy was not greatly influenced by the hole in the dart, and suggested that excess muzzle blast was actually the isue.



#335883 Stryfe Modification - Something slightly different...

Posted by azrael on 09 December 2013 - 03:01 PM in Modifications

Sorry for the necro, but I would like to know if 3 AA nimh batteries would provide enough current to run the motors. I'm planning on putting these in my rapidstrike.

No idea, It's very hard to find discharge rates on NiMH batteries. The mod on the nerf reddit has done it using eneloops, and the spin up time isn't great. Try using 6 - 3 in series paralleled with another 3 in series.



#335710 Stall Current on rapidstrike motors?

Posted by azrael on 29 November 2013 - 03:29 PM in Modifications

I run 7.2v 3300 mA with a full rewire. It already stings ad has great range, and the motors smell of ozone after 20 seconds of revving. Although there was a factory-blown capacitor and a broken lead, so my motors might be shit as well. I would say that 9.6v would burn out your motors fairly quickly. Are you rewiring, removing thermistors, improving switches, etc?
Also, NiMH > NiCD.
EDIT: Amps don't matter. Motors will only 'ask' for as much as they can handle. Voltage is force-fed.
Edit 2: Are you wiring to supply 9.6v and 1000 mA to each motor, or 4.8v and 2000 mA to each?

Well, mAH matter for figuring out max discharge current.
And motors only ask for what they need, but as you increase voltage, they ask for more.

I know that people have run their Rapidstrikes at 3s, but the push motor is can move fast at that speed. Using diodes to drop it down is a nice idea.



#335704 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 29 November 2013 - 12:22 PM in Modifications

So would going with 2 get better/similar performance than/to 3 ultrafires? If my somewhat limited knowledge of circuitry serves me right, wiring them in parallel would mean the same voltage as 2, but twice the battery life? What diode would serve this purpose? Or could I just hook up like a 9volt battery to the pusher mech and just have three eFests going to the flywheels? I'm trying my best to maintain the stock battery tray and just use converters, but this idea is beginning to grow on me. Thanks for all the help!!

-Sam_

Did you read the post? Haha, I already said what would be different. Overvolting is not just about the voltage, motors need current too. Trustfires can't supply that kind of current.
And no, parallel means same voltage, more current supply and higher discharge rate.
Overall RPM with a 3s is certainly higher than a 2s, but the difference is in recovery time, as in, how it takes the motors to spin back up to full speed after shooting a dart. With a choked current supply, motors will have less torque and take longer to spin up.

9v batteries are terrible, teribble current supply and discharge, just use diodes to drop it down. There was another topic here somewhere about this. Something from the 1N5400 diode series would be perfect. Just put a couple of the diodes in series, and then place them in between the pusher motor and battery.



#335699 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 29 November 2013 - 01:01 AM in Modifications

Sorry to post in a thread that's a few weeks old, but I feel that it's better to post than PM so others can see for future reference.So Azrael, are the eFests actually worth the ~$20(3 of them +shipping)? Also, what are the actual performance benefits over ultrafires? And is this a trustable link/website to purchase them? https://www.myvapors...145007&CartID=1
Thank you for the help in advance. I just want to get a better feel of what I'm buying
-Sam_
P.S. I'll be using them in a Rapidstrike if that makes any difference. Thanks again!

I've never used that site, so I dunno. I just got them off eBay. About the same price though.

The performance difference is that they have a significantly greater max current discharge over Trustfires. Why is this important? Because when we overvolt, the motors ask for more current, especially when revving up. When we overvolt, especially with replacement motors, this stall current, named as such because it's the amount of current the motor needs to break out of a stalled or stopped state, exceeds the current supply limitations of Trustfires. If the motors get the power they want, they spend less time revving up, and thus have better recovery time.

In a Rapidstrike, you would probably just want to go with a 2s system, unless you plan to drop the voltage going to the pusher motor with diodes. Otherwise, I believe the pusher motor starts pushing faster than the blaster can fire darts.
I would probably buy 4 of them, and wire them so two pairs of eFests are in parallel, for a total of 8.4V.



#335602 Benefits of Post removal

Posted by azrael on 24 November 2013 - 02:26 AM in Modifications

Another benefit to not removing posts, for nubs, is that with stock darts, posts can help crappy or well used darts still have a decent seal in the barrel/cylinder/bolt. Well used darts have foam that is no longer stiff, and the post can help them keep their shape.



#335529 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 18 November 2013 - 04:01 AM in Modifications

For 18650s, right? I got a pair of 14500 eFest IMRs for 10 bucks or something. 4 of those, paralleled for 8.4V should plenty of current supply and discharge and keep a stock look.

Stryfes with stock motors on a 3s system get to average 110 fps, which is pretty close to the upper limits of flywheel performance:
https://docs.google....RWc&output=html



#335516 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 17 November 2013 - 03:28 PM in Modifications

I believe commonly do two cell systems (2s) on Stryfe motors with no issue. I've done testing with 3s using Trustfires.

If you find 2s is high enough performance, I would rewire the battery box to have the two in parallel, for increased battery life.

LiPo is great but not necessary in your application yet, staying with stock.



#335509 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 17 November 2013 - 01:12 PM in Modifications

Sorry, I don't quite understand? Doesn't connecting batteries in parallel compound their current discharge? http://electronics.h...ch/battery6.htm (first paragraph).

Hmmm...that only talks about current supply. We are talking about discharge rate. The discharge rate remains the same.

But I thought about the math, and I was wrong, it does increase max discharge (not discharge rate).

For example, if both cells have 1000mAH, and 10C discharge rate, that means they have 10A max discharge, because 10C * 1AH = 10A. So if you connect them in parallel, you have a 2000mAH supply, but still 10C discharge rate. But 10C * 2AH = 20A max discharge.

So yes, that would work, but most people want overvolting, so you would have a pretty large pack to put 3 paralleled 18650s in series with 3 more paralleled in series with 3 more paralleled lol.



#335506 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 17 November 2013 - 12:05 PM in Modifications

Since you can get three 18650 trustfires(3-4A max discharge) for the price of an 18650 IMR(10A max), would it be reasonable to use three trustfires in parallel for the same current as an IMR but three times the capacity?
It would probably be impractical in a stryfe since you'd end up with 6 or 9 batteries, but I'm thinking of a homemade.

Depends on motors. Stock motors, those trustfires might be okay. Any sort of replacements, I would recommend a better battery chemistry.
Their current discharge rate will not increase, FYI, but their mAH will add up.

180 motors can pull A LOT of current, I think someone said 60A stall current? I forget. That's WELL past the current discharge rate of a Trustfire, thus you're not really getting any rev up benefits, and may even damage the battery.

There is definitely a limit to the capabilities of flywheels, as I haven't been able to hit significantly over 120 fps without either melting darts or melting flywheels lols.



#335498 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 17 November 2013 - 02:09 AM in Modifications

A Trustfire charger will work just fine, I use one with my eFests. One great thing about IMRs is that they can't be overcharged.


Trustfires are just common because it was what people were initially doing. Plus, they're cheap. But because of their construction, there are many problems with trying to use them with a high current demand.
There are many alternatives which will provide the current motors demand when overvolted, IMRs, LiFEPO4, LiPo, NiCd, etc...



#335483 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 16 November 2013 - 02:13 PM in Modifications

FPS tests have proven that simple overvolting of the stock motors gives much better performance than replacing the stock motors with RM2s and running at stock voltage. As long as you use good batteries, like eFest 14500 cells (not Trustfires).

I consider battery replacement and thermister removal to be MUCH easier than motor replacement...


If you want better performance, definitely do IMR instead of Trustfire. Trustfires do not have the current supply capability that we want for this application. They have relatively low discharge rates compared to other Lithium battery types. IMRs are also safer.



#335482 Hi-Low Power for Flywheel Blasters

Posted by azrael on 16 November 2013 - 02:08 PM in Modifications

Surprisingly, not so much. My Accessories power source is 4.5V (3 AAA), and my main LED's which I'd like to have control over are rated at 2.2V. Now, I already have a resistor for each LED as I'm running them Parallel, which could count as the minimum, however finding at POT rated that low, or at a usable size,is proving difficult, unless I special order....

Meh, its low on the priority list right now.

finding a pot rated that low? Heh? Any 1/4W potentiometer will work just fine.

I don't recommend running them in parallel, only because the forward voltages will vary a tiny bit with each LED. You can measure them for perfect matching, or just get lucky, like I did when I built my halloween costume.
If they each have independent resistors, you'll get a more even lighting, or could at least compensate.

What's a "usable size"? I know Radioshack's huge, but a 9mm pot would be pretty good. They're not expensive. I buy them from smallbearelectronics when I buy stuff for guitar tech work.



#335445 NIC Primary

Posted by azrael on 15 November 2013 - 04:05 PM in General Nerf

I slut myself between a bunch of different blasters as the rounds progress. You don't have to commit to a single blaster and only use that. It's much more fun to switch it up...
1)RSCB'd full tank panther (small, light, huge range, insanely accurate, simple 10 min mod, a near perfect rushing blaster, great for CTF. Currently it's my go-to primary)
2)hoppered marshmallow crossbow. (the huge pt allows for an equally huge feed tube, quick easy mod)
3)pteg barreled, pump replaced marshmallow Mforcer (naturally semi-auto 15 rnd rear loading turret! Only 80' range, but the rof compensates)
4)trustfired Rayven (it doesn't get simpler than buying 4 trustfires and dumping them in. Accuracy is abysmal but the rof and clip swapping is pretty fun)

I bought an MForcer the other day on your recommendation haha. Stoke to get it in the mail. 80', according to some data conducted hereis actually pretty solid. Most blasters apparently don't actually hit 100' flat.

Is the crossbow you mean?
http://www.amazon.co...o/dp/B0036QFKTG

Also, in terms of deadspace, how is an RSCB that different from a hopper?



#335422 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by azrael on 15 November 2013 - 01:15 PM in Modifications

Hey guys, so for Christmas I'm trying to get myself a stryfe so I can start to learn modding for the flywheel blasters, and I'd like to experiment with putting a replacement motor in it. I have looked at nearly all the mod tutorials that i can find, and many recommend the "Pro 180" motors that coop tends to use, but I've also seen a thread on here about the "RM2". I was very interested in the "RM2"s, due to the price difference, but I saw someone post in the comments of one of coop's videos asking how well they work, and he said that he believes they don't perform as well as even the stock motors. I would really appreciate some clarification if you guys don't mind, and I apologize if this has been asked, or is posted somewhere already, I just could not find a comparison of both the motors. Thank you in advance guys.

RM2s are not that great. The brushes have been see to commonly just get obliterated when overvolted.

You can try just sticking with the stock motor and using better batteries. You can get a very stock look with 3 14500 IMR batteries (and a dummy battery), like eFests, and get very good performance out of them.



#335390 Hi-Low Power for Flywheel Blasters

Posted by azrael on 14 November 2013 - 02:29 PM in Modifications

Awesome! Radioshack should have a pot with an integrated SPST switch. This would be perfect for LEDs, so you can turn them off all the way.

Make sure to have a minimum resistor in series with the pot to prevent it from blowing up the LEDs haha



#335381 Hi-Low Power for Flywheel Blasters

Posted by azrael on 13 November 2013 - 07:44 PM in Modifications

Just remember it's not so simple, diode's forward voltage depend on the amount of current being pulled. Check out the charts.
Surge/burst current for a 1N400X series is 30A, but the continuous is much lower, at 1A. It might not work well, depending on how much current is being drawn. I think I remember my Mach Dashes pulling maybe 3-5A continuous.

I doubt parallel will work all that well. It works for resistors, but in a circuit using series diodes, one diode will conduct before the other due to tolerance mismatches in their forward voltage. You may never see excess heat dissipate through the secondary diode.



#335378 Help with a barrel for elite darts in my rainbow

Posted by azrael on 13 November 2013 - 05:16 PM in Darts and Barrels

As said before, Elite darts do not have enough mass to be stable at higher speeds. That's why they're going wherever.