Splitlip I don't think you or many other people get what I did. This is not an air cylinder actuated by air coming through the schrader. I first put about 20 psi in the valve and then the pump is extended. When the shaft is pushed back the air compresses and acts like a spring.

Thank you foamfoot but the pogo stick is about 10 times bigger.

Uh, it is perfect seal how else would I be able to put in air then compress it. The air would just leak out.

[*]Does it fit nicely (Refer to nicely as...Tight/like a glove) in 9/16"/T.W PETG
[*]Is it consistent?
[*]How's its density
[*]Is it worth its money (http://www.mcmaster....93295k43/=kq3xf)
[/list]

1. It fits well in 17/32 so it will be loose in 9/16
2. It is very consistent
3. It is nice and dense
4. Thats your opinion but if you have the money then yes

I would like to participate in some friendly competition at launching ballistic balls, but we'd really need to decide on a consistent standard ball that's obtainable for everyone.

My combustion cannon would send real golf balls (5 or 6 at once) to almost 190' but it's likely to be harder to achieve such range with foam's drag-to-weight ratio. I might get close to 300' with as many foam balls as can fit in a pringles can, but that would be cheating, because I expect they'd stay in the can almost the whole way.

I'd be good for some competition I have been llooking for a reason to start building cannons again. What kinds of restrictions would be in place? Also is there a chance of a prize?

Veg, we're gonna start incorporating a ball gun round or two into future SENOs. Perfect time to bring out a cannon for demo.

I probably couldn't do it unless you set up an air compressor. Even if they aren't very mobile though they are insanely powerful. So what I was into spud guns before nerf.

If I ever get my big cannon working again I will show you real power. That thing could launch a pocket football at least 200 feet straight up. [/pointless bragging]

Well crap. I dont really have anything handy to seal it with... Would e600 work? Its a really strong adhesive that Im starting to use instead of hot glue because its pretty cheap...

What are you going to seal?

1. yes it is fine to use it is just that some people don't use and eventually it will blow apart when they dont use it.
2. Do you mean a shrader or presta valve?
3. it is okay its just really annoying.

Thats a shrader valve. I would seal it I were you ,but I have no experience with the shraders without threads.

I'm kind of scared to use PVC cannons actually...

Thats kind of funny to me because thats where I got my start in homemade guns in general.

Well my maverick is not shooting a I dont know why all I know is that i have to cock it, then hold the slide back and pull the tigger and then it shoots but not very far...
I nevrer modded this gun except for the Russian Roulette mod

P.S. I didn't know if I should put it here or under mods

Are you holding the slide back while you shoot it?

Good job but you don't need both putty and cement. The reason why is that pvc cement isn't a glue because it physically fuses the pipe. Also on your next homemade use purple primer before the pvc cement, you will get a much stronger bond.

Oops computer screwed up.

We've got some black and white Log House Foam here. It's loose in 19/32 and tight in 17/32, so I'm guessing 9/16 will be a good fit.

How tight is it 17/32? Do you have to twist it in?

If anyone here has used both log house and lowes foam compare could you please tell me. I want to buy some but do not want to waste my money.

Log House Foam is not consistent. I got a batch once that was great and another batch that was horribly thick. Because of that, I wouldn't recommend it. As Slug said, find a reliable source of foam.

Even if isn't consistent I think I will get some because who can pass up their cheap prices.

Redhead you have no idea what the hell I am asking do you?

I have quite a bit a brass. Would log house fit a little tight in 17/32 or 9/16?

I am aware of that. As stated above, this could be entirely done out of 2" PVC or smaller. I just wanted to "compact" the design instead of having a 16" chamber to achieve the same volume. I've read up on DWV piping and fittings, and I'm aware that it's not pressure rated. That being said, it should hold for the relatively low pressures I'm dealing with. In any case, once I examine all the design flaws (I just pried apart the ends of the chamber to redo, then compare new results), I can make Version 2 and include all safety measures as would be needed.

I'm glad you know the dangers of using the the dwv. My spudding background just makes me cringe when ever I see those fittings on a pressure vessel.

This looks nice,but you may want to be aware that those two large bell reducers are DWV fittings. They are not rated for pressure what so ever and could blow on you after prolonged use. I would also like to point out your lack of using a pvc primer or cleaner before cementing the fittings together. I'm not trying too bash your gun, just trying to warn you so that you could avoid these in subsequent versions.

No.... just no. All it is, is a plastic tube. You are probably one of those 10 year old goobers brought here by ice and other people on youtube.

I'm a GA nerfer and know about 10 more within 5 miles but they don't let you use anything as powerful as a SNAP. Kinda bummed me out when they banned mine. Back on topic I live about half an hour from Savannah.

Do I just bring the original spring with me and search for something with a similar size that is stronger but not too strong?

Yes that is exactly what you do. What he ment was that most people add the BBB spring to the regular longshot spring.

That is a very well constructed rifle you got there. Can I just suggest that you mod your sprinkler valve for pneumatic activation. Trust me it has a faster activation, you save money on batteries, and you get a cool new trigger.

http://www.spudfiles...valve-t305.html

What ever you do, do not pressurize that cannon. Those bell reducers you have used to go from 3" to 1 1/2" are a special kind of fitting. They are called DMV fittings or drain waste vent. They absolutley not pressure rated and you have basicly built a bomb. Next time when make sure that your fittings and pipe are not DMV.

Try a brick oven.

Like with burning wood? Not a good idea because you cannot accurately control the temperature and you would probably just melt or burn the PVC.

Gourmet... pencils.... WTF?!?!?!?

Otherwise interesting find, not quite as cheap though as most PETG, and is probably lacking in quality

Actually I have seen these and they are not low quality at all infact they are much thicker and stronger than petg.

Not that I can tell but I do imagine that it may slightly weaken the plastic.

Nope. PVC is a thermoplastic. You can warm it to soften it then shape it as needed.
However you should not be doing so with an oven that is indoors and lacks a fume vent. And You should never advocate doing so with a heat gun since controlling the even heating of the sheet would be too difficult.

Thank you for the comments Slug. I edited out the part about the heat gun. What would you suggest instead of an indoor oven?

Here is something I thought every one might enjoy. Its PVC sheet and its dirt cheap to make if you have some spare PVC laying around. It can be used for modifications homemades or whatever you want to do with it.

First off, I must warn you, if you do not own your own oven and your parents don’t want you messing with it that you should just turn away.

Supplies:
PVC pipe 1 ½ inch diameter or greater

Tools:
Jig saw/hacksaw/dremel
Oven
Oven mitts

Step 1: Find your pipe

Step 2: Cut you pipe to the desired length
(sorry forgot to take a pic)
Step 3: Cut a slit down the length of the pipe

Step 4: Put your newly cut pipe in the oven and pre heat to 400 degrees or until soft and flexible.

Step 5: Carefully takeout your pipe (with you mitts on) and out it under some weight until it cools


Step 6: When the PVC has cooled you will have a brand new sheet of PVC

The advantages of this material are that it is fairly cheap and can be permanently bonded together using PVC cement.

Questions/Comments/Lol Catz pictures?

Nice, it should be cheaper than polycarbonate at least. Are there any possible horrific ramifications to heating a plastic in the oven?

Not that I can tell but I do imagine that it may slightly weaken the plastic.

If this is melting the PVC then STOP. Like flint said, it will leech chlorine. And you won't notice because you can't smell it.

No its not melting it, it just makes it flexible.

Bob, why buy it when you already have an abundance of the materials to make it.

For the love of god, could we all stay on topic?!?

I'm a no-go for both dates. I have church commitments on Sundays. You guys have fun though!

So you couldn't come on a Saturday?

WiNCNO is on May 15. Also, we need to work out some licensing over the title "SENO"...

No one else was using it so thats what I called it. Also SENO has been traditionally held in GA or Alabama.

Also, why are you advertising YOUR war in my thread?

This is right around the same time as rork's war, WINCO. I'd prefer to go to both. Any chance of a change of date?

In short: no. The whole point of the date was to have it on or near spring break. Plus it's a couple months after rork's war.

Well I’m back and I’m itching for a war, who wants to come?


The war will be in our usual battle ground of the portables, a favorite for us Savannah nerfers.

Date:
April 4


Address
100 Constitution Way, Richmond Hill, GA 31324


What to Bring:
-Water and plenty of it
-Sunscreen
-At LEAST one primary (if I deem your blaster unfit to be used on humans then you will not be able to use it)
-At LEAST one spring pistol (There is always someone in need of a pistol)
-Darts

PLEASE: Remember the don’t be a dick rule is always in effect

I'm am not expecting mush in attendance since the close proximity to Rork's war but it will still happen. I will also be hosting another one after school gets out in hope of better attendance.

Attendance
Definite:
Veginator+3?
ASON+2-3
Maybe:
chaintyrant13

Okay this is really important.

The new date is APRIL 4 so ASON can attend

WiNCNO is going to be on the 24th, to a very high degree of probability.

Top post updated

april 4

 

I've wondered if sprockets are the best way, or if a proper pawl setup would be better and NERF et. al. doesn't do it because they're used to turrets and turrets work fine for stock blasters.

 

Either way, I was thinking 1" 200 PSI PVC would be a good shell size. 3 darts should fit no problem, 4 if you cram them in, mega/rivals could also fit if you wanted. OD is 1.315" for all varieties of 1" PVC, ID is +/- 1.16-1.189". PVC because it'd be cheap enough to build a belt out of: 10' of the stuff would make ~40 links in the chain for ~$5 (plus whatever filler you use to make the barrels). When I was considering it more seriously, I was going to make a jig to just duct tape the shells together into a belt. Seemed like a good combination of simple, reliable, and cheap.

Oh wow, I misunderstood what you were asking for. For some reason I got in my head that you wanted to chain feed a doomsayer. So what you are asking for is a chain fed shotgun in the literal sense. That's a bit different than what I had in my head. Let me think for a bit on that.

 

Again, rifling isn't really what matters here. Check out Slug's recent thread about the VF1 barrel alongside the SCAR. Both were identical unless the fit wasn't right in the SCAR, then performance was better on the SCAR. The whole idea of fishing line is an adjustable elastic barrel, not to impart spin. People like JSPB and others who do it for spin are correlating two things and assuming causation. In terms of fluid dyanmics, it makes no sense that spin would help a nerf dart, DOOM wrote a dissertation-style nerf document that modeled a dart and came to the same conclusion, and cited evidence that spin doesn't help. DOOM'd document is an excellent read if you're up for it, its on his website, go read it.

 

What Meaker is getting at is there is zero advantage to turning/milling a rifled barrel for nerf. Either 3D print Slug's VF1 and tune the diameter, or use a SCAR barrel. 

 

 

I hope that you are either being flippant or are referring to the dimensions of some specific part, like a nerf dart or stock vulcan chain. The dimensions are dictated by the design that no one has come up with. Everyone and their little sister can CAD these days, that part is trivial. Spending the time to design, prototype, and revise is what they were asking of you, not simply drawing up someone else's work.

I'm not talking about using it for a dart. From the evidence slug has presented its obvious that this would not work on a dart. I'm talking about the rival rounds and making them more stable at a higher velocity. I only want to use a mill because I want to. I like to work with my hands, that's it.

 

Woah you have an engineering degree that obviously means you are a god of design and fabrication and make literally anything

I neither have a degree nor am I the god of fabrication. What I do have is a fairly well equipped machine shop and some advanced research equipment. I also have a little bit of fab experience with stuff like automotive intake manifolds, exhaust, and chassis bracing.

No more high powered blasters!?! Back in my day, my singled basspro shotgun had a stock spring, longshot spring, and a [k26]. If your blaster didn't draw blood at close range then it wasn't worth it. I get that hvz has become more popular so blasters couldn't be as powerful but god damn thats pretty lame.

Oh btw, when I say I can make anything I mean it. Being a senior mechanical engineering student doing research has its perks. What is something you guys would like to see?