Does it use a 3/4 inch barrel or a 5/8 inch barrel diameter? Cause i made one with a 3/4 inch barrel, shot a mega dart in it with 80 psi with a two foot barrel, and the dart exploded. But the second shot went 60 feet becaus it spiralled into the ground. The tip wasn't heavy enough. I don't really see why your's only shot 30 feet. Unless you did use a 5/8" barrel with a nerf mega dart, not a stefan mega, meaning that the two foot barrel was useless except it only acyed as an expansion chamber makin less pressure hit the dart. But still, there must have been a fault somewhere in your construction. What design of a ball valve homemade was it? Multiple shots from one fill or shoot it and fill it? Because one thing to remember is to always have a firing tank the same size volume as your barrel. Otherwise the dart won't do as much in performance. That's what i have noticed with testing of my homemade.

I pulled apart my NF and found something that worries me; extensive wear on the plunger tube bracket eyes. They have mishapen in the four days that I've had an increase in force on the plunger. The shape of the original circle has turned into what resembles an egg shape. My guess is that since I had the end of the plunger tube cemented in, that the force of the plunger against the cap must be moved to the bracket eyes. Normally the stock barrel would keep the plunger tube from moving, but since the tube can move a bit freely on mine, it just warped the screw holes (eyes). It's not too much of a worry right now, but it makes my NF fire 3 inches upward at 7 feet, even when the gun is held flat on a table. Eventually I expect those to break on mine. Does anyone else have this problem? I wouldn't be surprised if you did. Since I'm going to be working with some metal this weekend, or next, I might reinforce the catch, plunger shaft, and rear of the gun where the spring has force applied to. I might also make a new plunger tube. Sounds like alot of work, but oh well.

Even when my NF was stock, it still had the "vibrating" sound of the spring. I've given it a Crayola barrel and a three-inch section of 1/2 inch PVC fitted a half inch on the Crayola (removable barrel=quicker reloads), put a 3/8 inch hole in the cap-thing, added 2 3 band chains and 1 2 band chain, and it too has the very small trigger pull. It only has to be pulled 1/8 of an inch before it fires. So I think that this may just be because of added pressure on the catch. Oh yeah, and the ringing is still there. It's so loud now, though, that my friend can hear it 15 feet away when it's fired. I'll have a look-see at the internals after school (sucks being 13), I need to fix a few things while its open anyway. I might see if i can do some sound wrapping also. That should make it quieter.

That's pretty similar to me. I voted switch. I'm a righty, but I can shoot with my left hand quite naturally, but it all depends on the surroundings (walls, shrubs, etc.). So ambidextrous people might rule in nerf. I know it helps a bit in paintball, but these to sports (paintball and nerf) don't compare at all.

So either way, you're screwed if you enter this thing?

If my "beliefs" on time travel are true though, then teleportation would be how to travel in time. I think that there is this exact same galaxy/solar system/planet/thingy somewhere else in the universe, maybe hundreds of them, but at different time stages. For instance, there could be one with this esarth only 3 million years in the past. Or future for that matter. And if we could teleport, then we could go to that different timed planet. But since we can't get back, we'd need one large cell phone coverage plan in order to relay our findings. That's just what I think, I also think someone covered this earlier in this thread. This whole post is kinda stupid on my part, but oh well. Great thread though! Very interesting.

I'd have to agree about the resemblance being a little close. I didn't know that you had come up with a design similar to this. The only difference I can tell is that your's seems to be more of a semi-auto type valve, where the one I drew would require a second valve, similar to the advanced ball valve homemade design, in order to make it semi. If this has a name on it, it shouldn't be mine cause this was just my take on a homemade version of the valves found in a RF20. It's not exact, but it can't be cause Nerf probably has it patented. Otherwise, the RF20 one is aslo very simple. The difference between the one posted by me and that one is that that one has the inlet beneath the valve itself, not directly across from the outlet on the side of the valve.

Thanks for the advice. The two black bars near the inlet and outlet were supposed to be marked as o-rings, but not lubed o-rings; I never thought of those. I should have a few valves for testing, and for use in a homemademade, this weekend. It will be made entirely of steel. A description of how it works is as follows: the air tank/pump is attached to one of the in/outlets, light blue parts. The line to the barrel is attached to the other. Inside the pipe that moves, yellow, there is another pipe either the same or smaller diameter than the in/outlets that is going perpendicular to the moving yellow part. When the green rod is pushed in, it moves the yellow part which moves the cross tube (perpendicular pipe) to open an air passage between the light blue pieces. There is a variably weighted spring that will return the yellow piece to allow the rest of that pipe to not allow the air to flow through the in/outlets freely, unles it leaked, which is the point to the (lubed) o-rings, to prevent air from escaping between the 'lets, causing lost pressure. Once the valve is closed again, it can be repressurized.

Vintage, to answer your last post, no, you're not the only one that doesn't get it, I don't get the design for that air regulator either.

Hello,
I'm not new to nerf (5 years practice), but I've only made two homemades. This valve may work for several designs that require a faster opening valve than a ball valve, but not as many small parts as a Zero valve, although I haven't really heard much about those. it just seems as if the Zero valve, according to the instructions on this website, has too small of an airway in it. I already have a use for it in a bolt-action rifle that requires a larger diameter (less restricted) air flow. The design for the valve seems simple. I just came up with it at school and was wondering what you guys thought of it, cause most of you have made several homemades yourselves. Sorry for the crappyness (word?) of the photo, but i had to scan it on low resolution. The little rod thing (green), when pulled, opens up the valve by moving a tube (yellow) that crosses between the in/outlets (light blue). This could be made out of most any material, I think.


P.S.-Don't care about the writing in the photo. It's illegible on the real drawing too. javascript:emoticon('')