Well, obviously this would be ideal, however not possible. There are parts and such that are held by the tape and that mere glue and paint could not hide/hold. Not until I introduce my second model Luge (a work in progress; I plan to build a modular Luger) will that be done. This was basically a prototype/ one of a kind replica.Also, if possible, cut down on all that electrical tape on the barrel. If the upper were metallic and cleaner, it would be BEAUTIFUL.
Still, that's a fine looking nerf gun.
Starbuck's Content
There have been 249 items by Starbuck (Search limited from 13-May 97)
#69830 The Luger
Posted by
on 24 December 2005 - 11:37 PM
in
Modifications
#69846 The Luger
Posted by
on 25 December 2005 - 08:01 PM
in
Modifications
Indeed, IS, it works. Here's a picture that I drew on paint. It's what the gun looks like without tape on it. I'm sorry for not taking pictures while I was building it, I didn't have batteries for my digital camera.
I drove a pin through the SM250 grips and installed a trigger. On the trigger is a flat piece of metal that pushes against a rod that in turn pushes against the trigger on the AutoGrip tube. It's really a quite simple design. Hope that helps.
I drove a pin through the SM250 grips and installed a trigger. On the trigger is a flat piece of metal that pushes against a rod that in turn pushes against the trigger on the AutoGrip tube. It's really a quite simple design. Hope that helps.
#69723 The Luger
Posted by
on 22 December 2005 - 08:55 PM
in
Modifications
I am a huge fan of original military pistols and rifles. I've been collecting them for several years now. Over the past couple of years, I've fallen in love with the old sinister German auto-loading pistols, the C1896 .30 calibre Mauser Broomhandle and the P-08 9mm DWM Luger (I bought a C96 Mauser back in the summer). After seeing King Kong at the theater last weekend and seeing the captain of the Venture kill a native with his P-08 Luger Artillery pistol, I decided I was going to make a Nerf replica.
The P-08 Long barrel "Artillery" Luger was intended for the crews of German artillery and Naval officers during World War 1. It had an incredible 8 inch barrel and was very sleek for its time (and still is!).
So, I printed off pictures of Lugers and went AWOL in my basement and produced this pistol. For your conveniece I've put pictures of real Lugers under mine for comparison purposes.
This one of a kind replica was made using a hodge podge of parts. I used my Boomstick (formerly an Autogrip), a SuperMaxx250, and other random parts and springs.
As you can see, friends, I've spent much time time on the details of this pistol. The sights are as close as I can get them. I used the back sight off of an old BB rifle to simulate the adjustable sight of the original. The front sight is crafted after the original. The grips were hand crafted from walnut wood and stained with Minwax walnut stain. You can't see it in the picture, but beneath the grips, I put in screws to hold the grips, just like the original.
The barrel is a whopping 8 inches long, just like the original. As a matter of fact, the whole pistol is on a nearly 1:1 ratio of the original!
It's not all for looks, folks. It's a fully functional sidearm. Since the pistol was constructed of my Autogrip Boomstick, the ranges are as follow:
Long: 85'
Short: 74'
Avg: 79.3’
This is the first weapon in a line of real life weapons I will be recreating here in the coming months. As always, questions and comments are welocme. I hope you've enjoyed another Starbuck/Noid creation!
The P-08 Long barrel "Artillery" Luger was intended for the crews of German artillery and Naval officers during World War 1. It had an incredible 8 inch barrel and was very sleek for its time (and still is!).
So, I printed off pictures of Lugers and went AWOL in my basement and produced this pistol. For your conveniece I've put pictures of real Lugers under mine for comparison purposes.
This one of a kind replica was made using a hodge podge of parts. I used my Boomstick (formerly an Autogrip), a SuperMaxx250, and other random parts and springs.
As you can see, friends, I've spent much time time on the details of this pistol. The sights are as close as I can get them. I used the back sight off of an old BB rifle to simulate the adjustable sight of the original. The front sight is crafted after the original. The grips were hand crafted from walnut wood and stained with Minwax walnut stain. You can't see it in the picture, but beneath the grips, I put in screws to hold the grips, just like the original.
The barrel is a whopping 8 inches long, just like the original. As a matter of fact, the whole pistol is on a nearly 1:1 ratio of the original!
It's not all for looks, folks. It's a fully functional sidearm. Since the pistol was constructed of my Autogrip Boomstick, the ranges are as follow:
Long: 85'
Short: 74'
Avg: 79.3’
This is the first weapon in a line of real life weapons I will be recreating here in the coming months. As always, questions and comments are welocme. I hope you've enjoyed another Starbuck/Noid creation!
#69744 The Luger
Posted by
on 22 December 2005 - 11:50 PM
in
Modifications
Here's an update:
It's a close-up of the grips and screws.
Piney, as I'm sure you know, the Rugers were modelled after the Lugers/Nambus. I have an AMT version of the Ruger .22. I love that thing!
It does look incredibly close to a real gun. If one wanted to take it into public, an orange end cap would have to be applied.
The driving force behind this replica is my passion for military weaponry. I don't have $2500 to lay down for an original Naval Artillery Luger. I just laid down $600 for a C96 Mauser and $300 for a 30-40 Krag carbine.
Thank you for your compliments.
It's a close-up of the grips and screws.
Piney, as I'm sure you know, the Rugers were modelled after the Lugers/Nambus. I have an AMT version of the Ruger .22. I love that thing!
It does look incredibly close to a real gun. If one wanted to take it into public, an orange end cap would have to be applied.
The driving force behind this replica is my passion for military weaponry. I don't have $2500 to lay down for an original Naval Artillery Luger. I just laid down $600 for a C96 Mauser and $300 for a 30-40 Krag carbine.
Thank you for your compliments.
#71643 Tanks
Posted by
on 25 January 2006 - 03:33 PM
in
General Nerf
Yes... this is why I made an anti-personnel rifle...
Drop the boxes before someone replicates my rifle and drops you.
Drop the boxes before someone replicates my rifle and drops you.
#71998 Supermaxx 5000 "roadblocker"
Posted by
on 31 January 2006 - 03:11 PM
in
Modifications
Well done, Piney. I'm glad I inspired a great work of art. I love the stock on the SM5k. I honestly think that megas are better than micros. I know I'm converting a lot of my guns to the .5" round.
PM me when you start making a magazine for it. I might have some stuff to help you there.
And once again, excellent work.
PM me when you start making a magazine for it. I might have some stuff to help you there.
And once again, excellent work.
#72026 Supermaxx 5000 "roadblocker"
Posted by
on 31 January 2006 - 08:29 PM
in
Modifications
I should have explained what I meant. I call 5/8" megas .50 cals or "half-inch" because I use .5" PVC on the barrels. My apologies.Megas are 5/8". The pipe's actual inside diameter is in the .6-.7 range. When I get home I'll check my picket ref..5" round.
EDIT: check out this link for info about pipe diameter and thickness, and an explanation for why it's so far off from the nominal pipe size:
http://www.gizmology.net/pipe.htm
#60898 Supermaxx 1500 Arrow Shooter
Posted by
on 02 August 2005 - 10:27 AM
in
General Nerf
They got them from old eBay auctions.
#60626 Supermaxx 1500 Arrow Shooter
Posted by
on 30 July 2005 - 12:28 PM
in
General Nerf
This is it. That picture is from Nerf World.
I owned one of these about seven years ago. It was apart of the SuperMaxx Air System (SMAS). The 1500 Arrow Shooter was basically the Larami 2000 with a six shot arrow turret added to the front. You can see this from another pic from Nerf World:
The Arrow Shooter was incredibly beastly. It had the air tank of the SM2000/5000, but had a six shot revolving turret. I believe this to be the number one rarest gun out there besides the SuperTech 9000.
#60630 Supermaxx 1500 Arrow Shooter
Posted by
on 30 July 2005 - 12:53 PM
in
General Nerf
Yes... This is the SuperTech 9000.
And yet another beautiful picture from our friends at Nerf World.
It was a SuperMaxx 2000 with a different paint scheme and a stock. These are rediculously rare. I've seen one of these a couple times. A kid in my neighborhood had one, but he threw it away a long time ago. What shame.
And yet another beautiful picture from our friends at Nerf World.
It was a SuperMaxx 2000 with a different paint scheme and a stock. These are rediculously rare. I've seen one of these a couple times. A kid in my neighborhood had one, but he threw it away a long time ago. What shame.
#82589 Spoon
Posted by
on 31 May 2006 - 11:49 PM
in
Off Topic
That is, if he's still alive.
Seijin and I's current staning thepory is that we'll find him dead in his house on his couch in his underwear with the war channel still turned on.
In the event he ever shows up again, though, happy birthday mother fucker!
The "Die hard Nerf man" died?
Either way, happy birthday oh ye deceas-ed one.
His website was the first website on here that showed me the wide world of modding.
#96882 Splitfire Problem
Posted by
on 20 December 2006 - 10:37 PM
in
General Nerf
Dart length could have something to do with it. Long darts tend to wipe out in flight.
#96887 Splitfire Problem
Posted by
on 20 December 2006 - 10:56 PM
in
General Nerf
Hrm, forgot something...
Make sure your weight is dead centered. If not it'll cause one side to be heavier thus causing odd flight.
Yes, Stefans I've used with holes are generally not as accurate. Most of the time this is due to bad placment of the hole.
I stick to solid rounds for all my ammunition.
Make sure your weight is dead centered. If not it'll cause one side to be heavier thus causing odd flight.
Yes, Stefans I've used with holes are generally not as accurate. Most of the time this is due to bad placment of the hole.
I stick to solid rounds for all my ammunition.
#96884 Splitfire Problem
Posted by
on 20 December 2006 - 10:45 PM
in
General Nerf
I am re doing the barrels to make sure they are straight, I will check the inner lip of the two brass sections. My darts are about 1-1.5 inches long.
Guilo
That's about the right. Anything over two inches is a bit much.
You don't burn holes in the back of your rounds do you?
#96890 Splitfire Problem
Posted by
on 20 December 2006 - 11:15 PM
in
General Nerf
Make sure:
1. The weights are heavy enough, rounds that are too light tend to sail off target
2. The weight is centered
3. The dart body is for the most part straight.
1. The weights are heavy enough, rounds that are too light tend to sail off target
2. The weight is centered
3. The dart body is for the most part straight.
#63587 Sharpshooter 1 Mod... Oh, My...
Posted by
on 13 September 2005 - 07:11 PM
in
Modifications
I Dremeled mine out to I wouldn't have any sliding around. As for the tape and glue... it's 3m electrical tape and I have no clue what brand the hot glue is. I'm glad it worked out for you.
#63636 Sharpshooter 1 Mod... Oh, My...
Posted by
on 14 September 2005 - 06:33 PM
in
Modifications
Oh, yes... with a little TLC, the Sharpshooter can be right on par with most of today's spring pistols. I've been known to tote mine around...It's really impressive that, with a little work, the orignial nerf dart gun can hold up to the newest.
#56713 Sharpshooter 1 Mod... Oh, My...
Posted by
on 05 June 2005 - 05:12 PM
in
Modifications
Yes, that's right... a Sharpshooter 1 mod. Oh, my!
I hadn't seen anyone post one nor could I find one while searching through archives and the Internet. It's very simple and produces a pistol that is actually practical for a Nerf war and is a pretty good sidearm. So here it is, my SSI mod:
First, I took the gun apart. I took out the plunger and took off the spring and stretched it real good. Next, I cut off a piece of CPVC that is 4 inches long. I used 1/2 inch CPVC so I could shoot micro sized darts. I took the 4" CPVC piece and I put it down over the rod on the end of the plunger. I marked where the CPVC touch the plunger tube with a Sharpie marker. Here's a picture:
Now, take a saw and cut as straight as you can on the mark you made on the plunger tube. This removes the rod and makes a bigger air hole.
Next, take the 4" CPVC piece and hot glue it to the plunger tube. Hot glue it on really good to create a good air seal. You cannot have any holes between the CPVC and the plunger tube.
Let the hot glue dry. After you let it dry, take some electrical tape and wrap it around the plunger tube. Everything should look like this now:
But, before you can put everything back together, you will have to take a Dremel tool and remove some of the plastic around the hole where the old dart rod went through because the CPVC is much bigger than the original hole. Be care and try to make it even as possible so your barrel doesn't end up crooked.
Now, reassemble the gun. Put on some rubber bands for more velocity. It should look like this:
Here's a picture of the barrel new barrel from the front:
Ranges are as follow:
Long: 68'4" (flat with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Short: 59'7" (flat with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Angled: 74'6.5" (with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Accuracy: 86%(13 out of 15 hit the target) at 45 feet on a 1.5'x1.5' target
This will make good use of that old Sharpshooter that you couldn't shoot do to using type 1 darts. Feel free to ask me questions. I hope you all enjoy it.
I hadn't seen anyone post one nor could I find one while searching through archives and the Internet. It's very simple and produces a pistol that is actually practical for a Nerf war and is a pretty good sidearm. So here it is, my SSI mod:
First, I took the gun apart. I took out the plunger and took off the spring and stretched it real good. Next, I cut off a piece of CPVC that is 4 inches long. I used 1/2 inch CPVC so I could shoot micro sized darts. I took the 4" CPVC piece and I put it down over the rod on the end of the plunger. I marked where the CPVC touch the plunger tube with a Sharpie marker. Here's a picture:
Now, take a saw and cut as straight as you can on the mark you made on the plunger tube. This removes the rod and makes a bigger air hole.
Next, take the 4" CPVC piece and hot glue it to the plunger tube. Hot glue it on really good to create a good air seal. You cannot have any holes between the CPVC and the plunger tube.
Let the hot glue dry. After you let it dry, take some electrical tape and wrap it around the plunger tube. Everything should look like this now:
But, before you can put everything back together, you will have to take a Dremel tool and remove some of the plastic around the hole where the old dart rod went through because the CPVC is much bigger than the original hole. Be care and try to make it even as possible so your barrel doesn't end up crooked.
Now, reassemble the gun. Put on some rubber bands for more velocity. It should look like this:
Here's a picture of the barrel new barrel from the front:
Ranges are as follow:
Long: 68'4" (flat with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Short: 59'7" (flat with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Angled: 74'6.5" (with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Accuracy: 86%(13 out of 15 hit the target) at 45 feet on a 1.5'x1.5' target
This will make good use of that old Sharpshooter that you couldn't shoot do to using type 1 darts. Feel free to ask me questions. I hope you all enjoy it.
#56741 Sharpshooter 1 Mod... Oh, My...
Posted by
on 05 June 2005 - 10:31 PM
in
Modifications
Thanks, man.
#71376 Sharpshooter 1 Mod
Posted by
on 21 January 2006 - 12:00 AM
in
Modifications
I'm glad you used my mod. You need to make some Stefans, bro. I used 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stefans in my pistol to test it. Make sure that there is no air escaping and everything is secure. These pistols really aren't thumpers, so 53 feet with a stock dart is really good. You'll get a lot better results with Stefans. If you have any more questions, feel free to PM me.
#72157 Sawtooth Mod: Big Clip
Posted by
on 02 February 2006 - 07:03 PM
in
Modifications
Well done, Baggie.
I've done this with two clips before, I felt three was somewhat cumbersome. Might I suggest a Monoblast(shot?) spring for the Sawtooth. That's what I did with mine and it gets much better ranges and adds some surprising zip. Again, well done.
I've done this with two clips before, I felt three was somewhat cumbersome. Might I suggest a Monoblast(shot?) spring for the Sawtooth. That's what I did with mine and it gets much better ranges and adds some surprising zip. Again, well done.
#73646 Rushing Weapons
Posted by
on 20 February 2006 - 12:08 AM
in
General Nerf
I'm a fan of the Razorbeast as a "squad automatic weapon". I made a box magazine that holds about a 30 round belt of ammo that works wonders. Lays down a nice blanket of fire. Range isn't bad... upwards of 60 some feet.
The Artemis Arms MG-RzB and MG-RzB Mk. 2
Click above for more info.
The Artemis Arms MG-RzB and MG-RzB Mk. 2
Click above for more info.
#70427 Ruffstuff Safe Darts
Posted by
on 04 January 2006 - 06:36 PM
in
Modifications
Yeah, I've been doing this for a while. They shoot pretty good. I've always called them "Royal Flyers." Don't ask where the name comes from...
But, anyway, they shoot great in brass barrels.
But, anyway, they shoot great in brass barrels.
#59883 Rubber Bands And Ranges (or Other Stretchy Things)
Posted by
on 22 July 2005 - 12:27 PM
in
General Nerf
I am in favor of banding. Acutally... I use surgical rubber. It doesn't look as goofy as rubber bands.
Yes, I've had plungers start to warp up on me, but this can be corrected by soaking in hot water and putting into a vise. A way to prevent warping is to remove the bands when you're not using the gun.
I test all my guns with banding. However, I denote all the mods performed on a gun whn I post a write up.
Yes, I've had plungers start to warp up on me, but this can be corrected by soaking in hot water and putting into a vise. A way to prevent warping is to remove the bands when you're not using the gun.
I test all my guns with banding. However, I denote all the mods performed on a gun whn I post a write up.
#59077 Rototrack Mod
Posted by
on 11 July 2005 - 12:58 PM
in
Modifications
Well done, ompa. I did this to my Chainblazer back about three months ago. The CPVC works wonders in chain, too. I had to make 200 of those inserts for all my chain. Blah, it took forever. Very nice work.
#82047 Revival!
Posted by
on 18 May 2006 - 11:59 PM
in
General Nerf
Ok, I'm going to update everyone:
As of right now, we're working on the models. I've had school work and I'm going to the state track meet next week to throw discus, but I've managed to start modeling pistols. No textures yet.
I'm thinking right now, that this is going to start out as a gun skin pack for CS:S to whet everyone's appetite, but as I get going, we'll start our own scripting. I found a hold out of about 50 original NAB players from when I was big into the game and they're psyched and are ready to help.
To answer questions:
Are you going to put the game on a site so everyone online can play it if you make it?
Yes, once we're done, I'll upload it to the Artemis Arms website once both are complete and it'll be on there for all to enjoy.
Oh, and yeah, the Supermaxx 1500 makes more sense. But then again, it doesn't: it's effectivley the same gun as the AT2K, but they're both included? I kinda though redundancy would be bad. Like putting in a Larami Supermaxx 2000, and putting in a Nerf Supermaxx 5000: basically the same gun.
Well, in a CS:S sense, the Steyr AUG and the Sig 552 Commando is pretty much the same gun, aye? They both are full auto and they have zoome capabilities. Well, the SM1500 and the AT2k are two different guns with similar qualities, range and several shots. I was just trying to get the details right in this rough draft.
Thanks for the interest. Look for more updates and pictures of model rendering soon!
As of right now, we're working on the models. I've had school work and I'm going to the state track meet next week to throw discus, but I've managed to start modeling pistols. No textures yet.
I'm thinking right now, that this is going to start out as a gun skin pack for CS:S to whet everyone's appetite, but as I get going, we'll start our own scripting. I found a hold out of about 50 original NAB players from when I was big into the game and they're psyched and are ready to help.
To answer questions:
Are you going to put the game on a site so everyone online can play it if you make it?
Yes, once we're done, I'll upload it to the Artemis Arms website once both are complete and it'll be on there for all to enjoy.
Oh, and yeah, the Supermaxx 1500 makes more sense. But then again, it doesn't: it's effectivley the same gun as the AT2K, but they're both included? I kinda though redundancy would be bad. Like putting in a Larami Supermaxx 2000, and putting in a Nerf Supermaxx 5000: basically the same gun.
Well, in a CS:S sense, the Steyr AUG and the Sig 552 Commando is pretty much the same gun, aye? They both are full auto and they have zoome capabilities. Well, the SM1500 and the AT2k are two different guns with similar qualities, range and several shots. I was just trying to get the details right in this rough draft.
Thanks for the interest. Look for more updates and pictures of model rendering soon!
#81572 Revival!
Posted by
on 09 May 2006 - 04:17 PM
in
General Nerf
That's supposed to be SuperMaxx 1500, not 500. Didn't notice my typo.
The loading and stuff is being drawn up. I'm not entirely sure as of this moment how it will work, but I gurantee something is being worked on.
The mods will be available to guns it applies to.
The damage will depend upon what type of dart hits you. Megas obviously do more damage, yet have less range whereas micros fly forever, but pack a smaller punch. As far as one shot one kill, that would be rediculous in my opinion.
All weapons will have a specific ammo type.
The sounds aren't even on the drawing board yet.
I'm glad to see you all have taken a keen interest in this. I'll keep you posted.
The loading and stuff is being drawn up. I'm not entirely sure as of this moment how it will work, but I gurantee something is being worked on.
The mods will be available to guns it applies to.
The damage will depend upon what type of dart hits you. Megas obviously do more damage, yet have less range whereas micros fly forever, but pack a smaller punch. As far as one shot one kill, that would be rediculous in my opinion.
All weapons will have a specific ammo type.
The sounds aren't even on the drawing board yet.
I'm glad to see you all have taken a keen interest in this. I'll keep you posted.
#81543 Revival!
Posted by
on 08 May 2006 - 10:13 PM
in
General Nerf
Ok, so I'm laying in bed and can't really sleep...
I'm thinking of the old Nerf Arena Blast days and when I was admin at Nerf Online. I'm thinking of how great that game was and it hits me... does it still have players? A quick yahoo search brings up a small community of maybe 50 players still playing it. Then an idea... what about a mod for it? Update the graphics, new gun models, sound, bleh, bleh...
I talked to my buddy, and he's already started on it. He said something about using the Source engine that was used with CS:S, HL2, and DoD:S. I've already drawn up the weapons:
Pistols
Nite Finder (Glock)
Tech Target (H&K USP)
Lock N' Load (Sig Compact)
Sharpshooter 2 (IMI Desert Eagle)
Dual Mavericks (Beretta 92s)
Automatics
Wildfire/Rapid Fire 20 (Fabrique Nationale P90)
Power Clip (Steyr TMP and Ingram Mac 10)
Razorbeast (Fabrique Nationale M249)
Chainblazer (H&K Mp5)
Arrowstorm (H&K UMP45)
Rifles
AirTech 3000 (Famas F1)
Bolstsniper's F.A.R. (Colt M4A1 (duh!))
Sawtooth (IMI Galil)
Starbuck/Noid's T-26 Carbine (Avtomat Kalashnikova 47)
AirTech 2000 (Steyr AUG)
SuperMaxx 500 (Sig SG552 Commando)
Crossbow with magazine (H&K G3)
Big Bad Bow with tube magazine (Sig SG550)
SuperMaxx 5000 (Steyr Scout)
Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle/Titan (Accuracy International AWM)
Upgrades and ammo
Brass and CPVC barrels
Micro Stefans
Mega Stefans
It's a lot, but this is all in the works. I'm looking for model makers and skinners. Two of us can't do this together. If anyone is interested, please contact me. Thanks.
I'm thinking of the old Nerf Arena Blast days and when I was admin at Nerf Online. I'm thinking of how great that game was and it hits me... does it still have players? A quick yahoo search brings up a small community of maybe 50 players still playing it. Then an idea... what about a mod for it? Update the graphics, new gun models, sound, bleh, bleh...
I talked to my buddy, and he's already started on it. He said something about using the Source engine that was used with CS:S, HL2, and DoD:S. I've already drawn up the weapons:
Pistols
Nite Finder (Glock)
Tech Target (H&K USP)
Lock N' Load (Sig Compact)
Sharpshooter 2 (IMI Desert Eagle)
Dual Mavericks (Beretta 92s)
Automatics
Wildfire/Rapid Fire 20 (Fabrique Nationale P90)
Power Clip (Steyr TMP and Ingram Mac 10)
Razorbeast (Fabrique Nationale M249)
Chainblazer (H&K Mp5)
Arrowstorm (H&K UMP45)
Rifles
AirTech 3000 (Famas F1)
Bolstsniper's F.A.R. (Colt M4A1 (duh!))
Sawtooth (IMI Galil)
Starbuck/Noid's T-26 Carbine (Avtomat Kalashnikova 47)
AirTech 2000 (Steyr AUG)
SuperMaxx 500 (Sig SG552 Commando)
Crossbow with magazine (H&K G3)
Big Bad Bow with tube magazine (Sig SG550)
SuperMaxx 5000 (Steyr Scout)
Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle/Titan (Accuracy International AWM)
Upgrades and ammo
Brass and CPVC barrels
Micro Stefans
Mega Stefans
It's a lot, but this is all in the works. I'm looking for model makers and skinners. Two of us can't do this together. If anyone is interested, please contact me. Thanks.
#82216 Removable Stocks
Posted by
on 22 May 2006 - 12:41 PM
in
Modifications
I released pictures of some of my custom Nite Finders. They are actually good handguns, but I don't prefer them. When using modified Nite Finders indoors, especially using new springs and rubber banding, they get in the 70 feet range which is superb for indoor combat. Well, as most of you all saw in my last post showing some custom Nite Finders (can bee seen here), they are nifty pistols. I felt that since my Nerfing experiences are now geared torwards indoor warfare, I felt that to have a small carbine that held multiple shots was necessary. I pondered upon what base to build the carbine on and got a wonderful idea from my Jane's Book of Infantry Weapons 1976. I saw many pistols that had detachable shoulder stocks. I thought this was a marvel idea and so I pursued a detachable shoulder stock for my Nite Finders. This is what I came up with:
The stock is inserted into the battery housing in the grip frame of the Nite Finder. The inserts that go into the battery well are made of 1/2" CPVC sanded to down to give a nice, tight fit. These inserts are attached via hot glue and a hefty screw into/onto a piece of 1/2" PVC. There is a 90 degree 1/2" PVC coupler on the back of the stock with another piece of 1/2" PVC in that. I then took some foam and wrapped around the back end for more comfort when firing. Along the left side, I mounted four double ammo holders left over from the Nite Finders. There is electrical tape in the photo, which detracts from the overall beauty, but I have since removed the tape and is more pleasing to the eye.
The Artemis Arms Tec 9 with stock and magazine. As you can see, the ammo holders keep both stefans and stock darts, whatever your preference is.
The Artemis Arms Tec 9 disassembled.
Here the stock is mounted to another Nite Finder. The stock is universal with all Nite Finders.
And here's the latest stock I've fabricated. It's used with SuperMaxx 5000s and SuperMaxx 1000s. Its build is pretty much the same as the Nite Finder's, but mounts differently. I took a 1/2" PVC T joint and cut it out so that it would slide on the back of a SuperMaxx gun with the " ] " shape on the back of the tank. I then drilled a hole and put a screw and wing nut through it to secure it on. To put on or take off the stock takes about five seconds. I know it's not painted yet, but I will eventually.
The simple stock attached to a standard SM5k and the Artemis Arms T-26 Tactical Carbine.
After some accuracy testing, there is enough data to suggest that a stock on a gun improves accuracy and gives the shooter more stability. One might look at these and say that it is cumbersome or unecessary. But, if you know me, you know that I don't like frivolous attachments. I see it as an advantage to mount a stock onto a Nite Finder to increase accuracy and to offer easier access to ammunition. Plus, since the stocks are detachble, it's easy to convert the gun back into the standard form.
Feel free to ask questions. I hope you've enjoyed another Artemis Arms innovation.
The stock is inserted into the battery housing in the grip frame of the Nite Finder. The inserts that go into the battery well are made of 1/2" CPVC sanded to down to give a nice, tight fit. These inserts are attached via hot glue and a hefty screw into/onto a piece of 1/2" PVC. There is a 90 degree 1/2" PVC coupler on the back of the stock with another piece of 1/2" PVC in that. I then took some foam and wrapped around the back end for more comfort when firing. Along the left side, I mounted four double ammo holders left over from the Nite Finders. There is electrical tape in the photo, which detracts from the overall beauty, but I have since removed the tape and is more pleasing to the eye.
The Artemis Arms Tec 9 with stock and magazine. As you can see, the ammo holders keep both stefans and stock darts, whatever your preference is.
The Artemis Arms Tec 9 disassembled.
Here the stock is mounted to another Nite Finder. The stock is universal with all Nite Finders.
And here's the latest stock I've fabricated. It's used with SuperMaxx 5000s and SuperMaxx 1000s. Its build is pretty much the same as the Nite Finder's, but mounts differently. I took a 1/2" PVC T joint and cut it out so that it would slide on the back of a SuperMaxx gun with the " ] " shape on the back of the tank. I then drilled a hole and put a screw and wing nut through it to secure it on. To put on or take off the stock takes about five seconds. I know it's not painted yet, but I will eventually.
The simple stock attached to a standard SM5k and the Artemis Arms T-26 Tactical Carbine.
After some accuracy testing, there is enough data to suggest that a stock on a gun improves accuracy and gives the shooter more stability. One might look at these and say that it is cumbersome or unecessary. But, if you know me, you know that I don't like frivolous attachments. I see it as an advantage to mount a stock onto a Nite Finder to increase accuracy and to offer easier access to ammunition. Plus, since the stocks are detachble, it's easy to convert the gun back into the standard form.
Feel free to ask questions. I hope you've enjoyed another Artemis Arms innovation.
#82221 Removable Stocks
Posted by
on 22 May 2006 - 04:52 PM
in
Modifications
Thanks.
Yeah, both of these stocks started out to be folders, but I grew impatient and stuck with the fixed style. I'll get around to modifying these into folders. Also, a telescopic stock it already is the works as we speak.
Believe it or not, the SuperMaxx stock doesn't move at all. I cut the joint so that it fits with the contour of the tank and the screw keeps it nice and tight.
Yeah, both of these stocks started out to be folders, but I grew impatient and stuck with the fixed style. I'll get around to modifying these into folders. Also, a telescopic stock it already is the works as we speak.
Believe it or not, the SuperMaxx stock doesn't move at all. I cut the joint so that it fits with the contour of the tank and the screw keeps it nice and tight.
#56100 Range, Accuarcy, And Rate Of Fire
Posted by
on 30 May 2005 - 11:06 PM
in
General Nerf
I've Nerfed for 10 years of my life and with my experiences, accuracy is number one. I don't give a damn if the other guy has an automatic with 20 shots, if he can't hit you with 20 shots (and I have seen many people unload a Wildfire and not hit anyone) it doesn't mean a damn thing. Without accuracy, there is no kill.
#73100 Presenting The Snap-2
Posted by
on 13 February 2006 - 10:19 PM
in
Homemades
I like it. I've got a replica Sten on the way, but my mag is mounted on the side and is removeable.
If you'd like an upgrade on the magazine, PM me. I can help you build one with a spring so you don't have to mount it atop and it's removeable. This cuts down on the mag being in your line of sight and is much easier to negotiate.
If you'd like an upgrade on the magazine, PM me. I can help you build one with a spring so you don't have to mount it atop and it's removeable. This cuts down on the mag being in your line of sight and is much easier to negotiate.
#57146 Powerclip Stripper Clip
Posted by
on 10 June 2005 - 11:18 AM
in
Modifications
Well, I just got my Powerclip up and running again. As afore mentioned, it's a wonderful weapon. I really want to use it in the next war we have here, but I've only got one clip because I haven't had time to go on a wild goose chase to find a couple extra clips.
Well, to remedy the problem of having one clip, I turned to old world military rifles. Most military rifles of the early 1900s were a turn-bolt action rifle with a box magazine (exceptions: 1895 Steyr was a straight pull bolt, the 1889 Schmidt-Rubin was also a straight pull, and the 1886 Lebel had a tubular magazine) that was loaded using a stripper clip. A stripper clip is a piece of metal that holds usually 5 rounds of ammo. You inserted it into the top of the magazine and push down to load the rounds. This was all before the box magazine of the M-16 and AK-47.
I devised a stripper clip and made it from poster board. I cut out roughly the length and width of the PC clip. I took an Exacto knife and cut out holes for each of the 10 spaces on the clip. And here are the results and step by step usage:
The clip loaded with 10 rounds.
The stripper clip beside the PC clip.
Insert the stripper clip into the PC clip.
Push down until the clip is flat again the PC clip.
Now, quickly push all the rounds down into the clip.
The PC clip is loaded and the stripper clip is discarded.
One can produce a PC stripper clip in under 5 minutes, however, this device is in its infancy. A noticeable problem is that the rounds get turned into different directions, thus making it harder to load the PC clip. The other problem is that the poster board is flimsy. I believe if I use a thin wood to make the stripper clips, it should correct both of those problems. This stripper clip system should hold me over until I can secure a couple more PC clips. Feel free to ask questions. I hope you have enjoyed!
Well, to remedy the problem of having one clip, I turned to old world military rifles. Most military rifles of the early 1900s were a turn-bolt action rifle with a box magazine (exceptions: 1895 Steyr was a straight pull bolt, the 1889 Schmidt-Rubin was also a straight pull, and the 1886 Lebel had a tubular magazine) that was loaded using a stripper clip. A stripper clip is a piece of metal that holds usually 5 rounds of ammo. You inserted it into the top of the magazine and push down to load the rounds. This was all before the box magazine of the M-16 and AK-47.
I devised a stripper clip and made it from poster board. I cut out roughly the length and width of the PC clip. I took an Exacto knife and cut out holes for each of the 10 spaces on the clip. And here are the results and step by step usage:
The clip loaded with 10 rounds.
The stripper clip beside the PC clip.
Insert the stripper clip into the PC clip.
Push down until the clip is flat again the PC clip.
Now, quickly push all the rounds down into the clip.
The PC clip is loaded and the stripper clip is discarded.
One can produce a PC stripper clip in under 5 minutes, however, this device is in its infancy. A noticeable problem is that the rounds get turned into different directions, thus making it harder to load the PC clip. The other problem is that the poster board is flimsy. I believe if I use a thin wood to make the stripper clips, it should correct both of those problems. This stripper clip system should hold me over until I can secure a couple more PC clips. Feel free to ask questions. I hope you have enjoyed!
#57171 Powerclip Stripper Clip
Posted by
on 10 June 2005 - 03:32 PM
in
Modifications
Thank you, gentlemen. 
#56964 Powerclip Problem. Help!
Posted by
on 08 June 2005 - 11:04 AM
in
General Nerf
I have just fixed the problem. The black piece on the end of the arm was worn a bit. I epoxied on a piece plastic on top of the black piece, covering up the worn part. This remedied it quite well, and it gives me a slighty better ROF due to a quick edge sliding the clip upwards. I want thank everyone for their help!
#56945 Powerclip Problem. Help!
Posted by
on 07 June 2005 - 11:10 PM
in
General Nerf
Chances are you've mabey over tightened things (football player!) or moved things around ever so slightly so it's harder for the clip to slide.
Haha, good one, Franky. Alright, I'll check that first thing in the morning. I'm glad I've also got your PC coming to me, as well. Thanks, Frank.
#56940 Powerclip Problem. Help!
Posted by
on 07 June 2005 - 10:31 PM
in
General Nerf
I did that, Devious. They are as tight as possible.
#56936 Powerclip Problem. Help!
Posted by
on 07 June 2005 - 10:23 PM
in
General Nerf
Thank you so very much for your advice, gentlemen. I took it apart again and tightened everything, however this did not remedy the problem. The arm slides around the triangle, not going under it, thus not advancing the the clip up. I've uploaded this picture to help. Sorry it's blurred. Perhaps, this will give you a better view of the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a lot!
Edit: Since the arm is going over the triangle, I thought about hot gluing in a small piece of plastic on the railing that hold the arm. This would push the arm over to the right just a small bit, there keeping it closer to the clip. Let me know what you think.
Edit: Since the arm is going over the triangle, I thought about hot gluing in a small piece of plastic on the railing that hold the arm. This would push the arm over to the right just a small bit, there keeping it closer to the clip. Let me know what you think.
#56885 Powerclip Problem. Help!
Posted by
on 07 June 2005 - 04:44 PM
in
General Nerf
I recently accquired a Powerclip in a trade. It was unmodded and worked great. I was amazed by its high rate of fire. Well, I did the standard clip mod to it to allow for interchangeable clips and about a day later, it started screwing up.
My problem is this: it will not advance past the third triangular piece on the side. The arm that moves the clip up gets hung on the third piece. Instead of the arm moving under the piece and forcing the clip up, it moves to the side and does nothing but sit there and go back and fourth. Is there anyway I can remedy this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My problem is this: it will not advance past the third triangular piece on the side. The arm that moves the clip up gets hung on the third piece. Instead of the arm moving under the piece and forcing the clip up, it moves to the side and does nothing but sit there and go back and fourth. Is there anyway I can remedy this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#71380 Plastidip Grips?
Posted by
on 21 January 2006 - 12:30 AM
in
Modifications
Bondo can be smoothed out and painted any color.
Sistermol, search it on google.
Sistermol, search it on google.
