Thanks.
Yeah, both of these stocks started out to be folders, but I grew impatient and stuck with the fixed style. I'll get around to modifying these into folders. Also, a telescopic stock it already is the works as we speak.
Believe it or not, the SuperMaxx stock doesn't move at all. I cut the joint so that it fits with the contour of the tank and the screw keeps it nice and tight.
Starbuck's Content
There have been 249 items by Starbuck (Search limited from 13-May 97)
#82221 Removable Stocks
Posted by
on 22 May 2006 - 04:52 PM
in
Modifications
#82045 Breech W/o Coupler Or Dremel
Posted by
on 18 May 2006 - 11:34 PM
in
Modifications
That's similar to my standard Artemis breech system.
I don't like using couplers. I'm cool like that.
Well done.
I don't like using couplers. I'm cool like that.
Well done.
#96780 Notes From The Armory
Posted by
on 19 December 2006 - 01:48 AM
in
Modifications
Well it's been months since I've posted anything constructive, so I'll post some things I've noted while working in the ol' Armory.
The Longshot
The last gun I modded some three months ago. The front gun is useless in my opinion. I saw it to be a Scout with a new shell. It has no value to me so it's in parts bucket #12. The gun stock is an excellent weapon for indoor use. It's fairly accurate and has an excellent rate of fire.
I'm sure mods are out there for the Longshot already, I just haven't had time to sit down and look at them. It is a great idea to undertake the general modifications on this blaster. However, it is not an entry level mod, so inexperienced modders beware. A Dremel tool in invaluable when fiddling with one of these. Perform the usual air restrictior removal to start off with.
The spring in this blaster is so-so. It's big, but a tad on the weakside. I use on almost every mod, a new spring. The spring of choice at the Armory is Handyman Springs from Home Depot. They are the length of a first generation Nite Finder, but twice as thick. The spring will compress in most Nerf guns, but I will throw a word of caution to you. Reinforce the casing with some sort of metal. I use aluminum or brass. Really just anything to give added support.
A good idea is to install a nice sturdy rubberband from the front of the Longshot to the bolt. This will bring the bolt forward after cocking elminating you manually doing it after each shot. I installed a spring on the side to do this, but this is slightly more complex. Remember that everything time you want to put in a fresh magazine, you'll have to hold the bolt open otherwise it will shut with no magazine. I find the automatic bolt closing method to be a bit quicker in combat.
The magazines are very well made for a Nerf product. I find that I can load in seven micro rounds into the magazine. Most of you know that I am a champion of the larger caliber mega dart. I found that mega Stefans will fit in the clip and chamber in the weapon. Megas chamber nice and tight which is always a good thing. They most definitely hit harder than micros and I found little to no deviation in range between the mega and micro when fired from the Longshot. I find accuracy to be bit better due to the shorter, stouter build. This stabilizes the dart a bit better than that of the micro. The only drawback is that the magazine will only accomodate six megas due to their larger diameter.
The drawback to the Longshot itself is the magazines. You only receive two with the blaster. This can present a problem with reloading. I fixed this problem by fabricating stripper clips from cassette tape casings. You'll only want the side that the tape fits down into. Dremel out the bottom piece of plastic to allow the rounds to slide out:
The whole stripper clip should slide right down into the magazine, thus charging the spent magazine. Now put your finger on the top round and pull the stripper clip up out of the magazine. Six or seven rounds are now in the the replenished magazine. I will post pictures of the loading process in the morning to simplify things. The stripper clip retains the darts well, so no need to worry about rounds falling out. The stripper clip accomodates either micros or megas. I've made four of these to keep in pouches during battle. This is infintely faster than reloading the magazines round by round.
Streamline rounds are actually quite good. They've been in use around here for a good while with good effect. However, Stefan rounds are ultimately your best choice. This takes us to the next section, ammunition.
Ammunition
I have been handloading my ammunition for years. I was using the tried and true fish sinker as the weighting system in all of my rounds. However, fabricating rounds for the Longshot proved to be difficult. The standard sinker was too heavy and the round would drop while flying down range.
I remedied this by testing the optimum weighted round for the Longshot. The standard streamline is 14.6 grains on a gunpowder scale and is in excess of two inches. I experimented and found the optimum length to be 1.75 inches. The most effective weight is 13.6 grains. I have replaced the old fish sinker with shotgun pellets. A single pellet weighs in at .8 grains. A 1.75 inch piece of foam backer rod with five pellets give us 12.3 grains. The way I load the Longshot rounds is to take my foam backer rod and make an "X" shape insicion on the top end. I put five pellets in the incisions like so:
Place a nice dome of hot glue to seal the pellets in. Your end weight should be 13.6 plus or minus. Be sure when placing the pellets to make sure they are evenly spaced so the one side is not weighted more than the other because this obviously causes decreased accuracy and wobbly flight.
When handloading a mega round for the Longshot, the length should be 1.5 inches with five pellets. The weight still comes out to a nice 13.6.
The ranges from these darts fired from a Longshot are as follows:
Micro
Long- 91.3 feet
Short- 83.4 feet
Average- 87.7 feet
Mega
Long- 91.4 feet
Short- 78.5 feet
Avg- 88.4 feet
I find that these rounds I loaded specifically for the Longshot work well with other blasters, too. Therefore, I have made the switch to all of my rounds to the new weight system and make sure every dart is acceptable for combat in accuracy, stability, and hitting power. I suggest before you Nerf, to take about fifty rounds and test fire them. Make sure they are shooting where you want them to. You are bound to find unsatisfactory rounds in your batch. Take only the rounds that will best serve you.
Thus, gentlemen, I will preach consistency when handloading for your blasters. Take pride in your ammunition making. Experiment and see what you can come up with for your different blasters.
I have concluded that the Longshot is more than adequate for all major styles of combat. Once modified, it is pleasingly strong enough to cast rounds well past the 80 foot mark consistently. Some indoor players stray from the use of Stefans and will find that the stock Streamline will perform well. The volume of fire is nearly double that of a traditional muzzleloading Crossbow or BBB.
I hope you find this article useful. Thanks for reading.
The Longshot
The last gun I modded some three months ago. The front gun is useless in my opinion. I saw it to be a Scout with a new shell. It has no value to me so it's in parts bucket #12. The gun stock is an excellent weapon for indoor use. It's fairly accurate and has an excellent rate of fire.
I'm sure mods are out there for the Longshot already, I just haven't had time to sit down and look at them. It is a great idea to undertake the general modifications on this blaster. However, it is not an entry level mod, so inexperienced modders beware. A Dremel tool in invaluable when fiddling with one of these. Perform the usual air restrictior removal to start off with.
The spring in this blaster is so-so. It's big, but a tad on the weakside. I use on almost every mod, a new spring. The spring of choice at the Armory is Handyman Springs from Home Depot. They are the length of a first generation Nite Finder, but twice as thick. The spring will compress in most Nerf guns, but I will throw a word of caution to you. Reinforce the casing with some sort of metal. I use aluminum or brass. Really just anything to give added support.
A good idea is to install a nice sturdy rubberband from the front of the Longshot to the bolt. This will bring the bolt forward after cocking elminating you manually doing it after each shot. I installed a spring on the side to do this, but this is slightly more complex. Remember that everything time you want to put in a fresh magazine, you'll have to hold the bolt open otherwise it will shut with no magazine. I find the automatic bolt closing method to be a bit quicker in combat.
The magazines are very well made for a Nerf product. I find that I can load in seven micro rounds into the magazine. Most of you know that I am a champion of the larger caliber mega dart. I found that mega Stefans will fit in the clip and chamber in the weapon. Megas chamber nice and tight which is always a good thing. They most definitely hit harder than micros and I found little to no deviation in range between the mega and micro when fired from the Longshot. I find accuracy to be bit better due to the shorter, stouter build. This stabilizes the dart a bit better than that of the micro. The only drawback is that the magazine will only accomodate six megas due to their larger diameter.
The drawback to the Longshot itself is the magazines. You only receive two with the blaster. This can present a problem with reloading. I fixed this problem by fabricating stripper clips from cassette tape casings. You'll only want the side that the tape fits down into. Dremel out the bottom piece of plastic to allow the rounds to slide out:
The whole stripper clip should slide right down into the magazine, thus charging the spent magazine. Now put your finger on the top round and pull the stripper clip up out of the magazine. Six or seven rounds are now in the the replenished magazine. I will post pictures of the loading process in the morning to simplify things. The stripper clip retains the darts well, so no need to worry about rounds falling out. The stripper clip accomodates either micros or megas. I've made four of these to keep in pouches during battle. This is infintely faster than reloading the magazines round by round.
Streamline rounds are actually quite good. They've been in use around here for a good while with good effect. However, Stefan rounds are ultimately your best choice. This takes us to the next section, ammunition.
Ammunition
I have been handloading my ammunition for years. I was using the tried and true fish sinker as the weighting system in all of my rounds. However, fabricating rounds for the Longshot proved to be difficult. The standard sinker was too heavy and the round would drop while flying down range.
I remedied this by testing the optimum weighted round for the Longshot. The standard streamline is 14.6 grains on a gunpowder scale and is in excess of two inches. I experimented and found the optimum length to be 1.75 inches. The most effective weight is 13.6 grains. I have replaced the old fish sinker with shotgun pellets. A single pellet weighs in at .8 grains. A 1.75 inch piece of foam backer rod with five pellets give us 12.3 grains. The way I load the Longshot rounds is to take my foam backer rod and make an "X" shape insicion on the top end. I put five pellets in the incisions like so:
Place a nice dome of hot glue to seal the pellets in. Your end weight should be 13.6 plus or minus. Be sure when placing the pellets to make sure they are evenly spaced so the one side is not weighted more than the other because this obviously causes decreased accuracy and wobbly flight.
When handloading a mega round for the Longshot, the length should be 1.5 inches with five pellets. The weight still comes out to a nice 13.6.
The ranges from these darts fired from a Longshot are as follows:
Micro
Long- 91.3 feet
Short- 83.4 feet
Average- 87.7 feet
Mega
Long- 91.4 feet
Short- 78.5 feet
Avg- 88.4 feet
I find that these rounds I loaded specifically for the Longshot work well with other blasters, too. Therefore, I have made the switch to all of my rounds to the new weight system and make sure every dart is acceptable for combat in accuracy, stability, and hitting power. I suggest before you Nerf, to take about fifty rounds and test fire them. Make sure they are shooting where you want them to. You are bound to find unsatisfactory rounds in your batch. Take only the rounds that will best serve you.
Thus, gentlemen, I will preach consistency when handloading for your blasters. Take pride in your ammunition making. Experiment and see what you can come up with for your different blasters.
I have concluded that the Longshot is more than adequate for all major styles of combat. Once modified, it is pleasingly strong enough to cast rounds well past the 80 foot mark consistently. Some indoor players stray from the use of Stefans and will find that the stock Streamline will perform well. The volume of fire is nearly double that of a traditional muzzleloading Crossbow or BBB.
I hope you find this article useful. Thanks for reading.
#71024 Magazine ?
Posted by
on 15 January 2006 - 12:14 AM
in
Modifications
Um... check out my clip fed guns for help:
Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle
Artemis Arms T-26 Carbine Mk. 1
Renegade and ompa have also made successful clip designs.
Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle
Artemis Arms T-26 Carbine Mk. 1
Renegade and ompa have also made successful clip designs.
#69937 Chewbacca's Mauser
Posted by
on 27 December 2005 - 03:08 AM
in
Modifications
I like where you're going with it. Just clean it up a bit and it should be nice. You might also want to think of another grip scheme for it. The grips will no doubt be the hardest to fabricate.
There's a picture of my personal C96 Broomhandle. Hope it helps.
There's a picture of my personal C96 Broomhandle. Hope it helps.
#59994 Just Got A Sharpshooter
Posted by
on 23 July 2005 - 06:35 PM
in
Modifications
I came up with this conversion for the Sharpshooter 1. It can be seen here: http://nerfhaven.com...hl=sharpshooter. I wouldn't do this to the in box Sharpshooter, especially since it has the original type 1 darts.
#52015 The Nerf War Is Evolving
Posted by
on 08 April 2005 - 09:38 PM
in
General Nerf
Most wars I have seen or heard about here consists of a buncha' guys running around in a park shooting each other. I've done that for many happy years, and by God I love it, I really do. But, here recently we've gone to a larger area to Nerf. We Nerf in a part of my neighborhood that is about a mile or so. We Nerf at dusk and sometimes the wars can go til midnight. We Nerf "all out" about once a month. I recently got back into Nerf after about a year drought and got quite a few guys from school back into it so we go with larger teams of anywhere from ten to twenty people. We play CTF with two bases. With bigger spaces and more people, you must use new tactics. It's not so much as running in a shooting the hell out of a place. It's more of send out patrols and set up gun emplacements. New battlefield implements such as my mounted Razorbeast (seen here:http://nerfhaven.com...topic=4087&st=0) are now coming into play. This actually turns out being in a sense like a real war. One must now fully rely on team work rather than "lone wolfing" it. I know this is a radical departure, but it is fun as hell. I also understand that I have the luxary of many people who participate. I know a lot of you would probably hate this or hate the idea of this realistic warfare. Every Nerfer is entitled to his own opinion. But down here in eastern Tennessee, the "Nerf skirmish" has finally evolved into a "Nerf war."
By the way, out of sheer curiosity... does anyone remember me from the good ol' days back in 1999 on Nerf Online or Nerf Center?
By the way, out of sheer curiosity... does anyone remember me from the good ol' days back in 1999 on Nerf Online or Nerf Center?
#59376 Just Basic Mod, How Do U Do It!
Posted by
on 15 July 2005 - 10:11 AM
in
Modifications
I will PM this poor man and help him.
#62337 Defender T3 Problems
Posted by
on 21 August 2005 - 01:28 PM
in
Modifications
Since I consider myself an expert on the DT3, I'll answer this...
Notice the space between the back of the pistol and the arrow launcher in back. Make sure the two guns are tightly fit together at the back. Notice up top, the latch is not meeting trigger catch.
The reason this is happening is that your pistol barrel is not the same diameter as the front orange piece with the spring. This piece forces the pistol back into position. The orange piece is over your barrel, therefore it can't push it back into position. I suggest going back and doing my DT3 mod. That should solve your problem.
Also, there is no need to have a long barrel on the DT3 pistol. This just makes it impossible to dissengage the pistol from the launcher.
Hope this helps.
Notice the space between the back of the pistol and the arrow launcher in back. Make sure the two guns are tightly fit together at the back. Notice up top, the latch is not meeting trigger catch.
The reason this is happening is that your pistol barrel is not the same diameter as the front orange piece with the spring. This piece forces the pistol back into position. The orange piece is over your barrel, therefore it can't push it back into position. I suggest going back and doing my DT3 mod. That should solve your problem.
Also, there is no need to have a long barrel on the DT3 pistol. This just makes it impossible to dissengage the pistol from the launcher.
Hope this helps.
