Since I consider myself an expert on the DT3, I'll answer this...



Notice the space between the back of the pistol and the arrow launcher in back. Make sure the two guns are tightly fit together at the back. Notice up top, the latch is not meeting trigger catch.



The reason this is happening is that your pistol barrel is not the same diameter as the front orange piece with the spring. This piece forces the pistol back into position. The orange piece is over your barrel, therefore it can't push it back into position. I suggest going back and doing my DT3 mod. That should solve your problem.

Also, there is no need to have a long barrel on the DT3 pistol. This just makes it impossible to dissengage the pistol from the launcher.

Hope this helps.

I came up with this conversion for the Sharpshooter 1. It can be seen here: http://nerfhaven.com...hl=sharpshooter. I wouldn't do this to the in box Sharpshooter, especially since it has the original type 1 darts.

I will PM this poor man and help him.

Well it's been months since I've posted anything constructive, so I'll post some things I've noted while working in the ol' Armory.

The Longshot

The last gun I modded some three months ago. The front gun is useless in my opinion. I saw it to be a Scout with a new shell. It has no value to me so it's in parts bucket #12. The gun stock is an excellent weapon for indoor use. It's fairly accurate and has an excellent rate of fire.

I'm sure mods are out there for the Longshot already, I just haven't had time to sit down and look at them. It is a great idea to undertake the general modifications on this blaster. However, it is not an entry level mod, so inexperienced modders beware. A Dremel tool in invaluable when fiddling with one of these. Perform the usual air restrictior removal to start off with.

The spring in this blaster is so-so. It's big, but a tad on the weakside. I use on almost every mod, a new spring. The spring of choice at the Armory is Handyman Springs from Home Depot. They are the length of a first generation Nite Finder, but twice as thick. The spring will compress in most Nerf guns, but I will throw a word of caution to you. Reinforce the casing with some sort of metal. I use aluminum or brass. Really just anything to give added support.

A good idea is to install a nice sturdy rubberband from the front of the Longshot to the bolt. This will bring the bolt forward after cocking elminating you manually doing it after each shot. I installed a spring on the side to do this, but this is slightly more complex. Remember that everything time you want to put in a fresh magazine, you'll have to hold the bolt open otherwise it will shut with no magazine. I find the automatic bolt closing method to be a bit quicker in combat.

The magazines are very well made for a Nerf product. I find that I can load in seven micro rounds into the magazine. Most of you know that I am a champion of the larger caliber mega dart. I found that mega Stefans will fit in the clip and chamber in the weapon. Megas chamber nice and tight which is always a good thing. They most definitely hit harder than micros and I found little to no deviation in range between the mega and micro when fired from the Longshot. I find accuracy to be bit better due to the shorter, stouter build. This stabilizes the dart a bit better than that of the micro. The only drawback is that the magazine will only accomodate six megas due to their larger diameter.

The drawback to the Longshot itself is the magazines. You only receive two with the blaster. This can present a problem with reloading. I fixed this problem by fabricating stripper clips from cassette tape casings. You'll only want the side that the tape fits down into. Dremel out the bottom piece of plastic to allow the rounds to slide out:



The whole stripper clip should slide right down into the magazine, thus charging the spent magazine. Now put your finger on the top round and pull the stripper clip up out of the magazine. Six or seven rounds are now in the the replenished magazine. I will post pictures of the loading process in the morning to simplify things. The stripper clip retains the darts well, so no need to worry about rounds falling out. The stripper clip accomodates either micros or megas. I've made four of these to keep in pouches during battle. This is infintely faster than reloading the magazines round by round.

Streamline rounds are actually quite good. They've been in use around here for a good while with good effect. However, Stefan rounds are ultimately your best choice. This takes us to the next section, ammunition.

Ammunition

I have been handloading my ammunition for years. I was using the tried and true fish sinker as the weighting system in all of my rounds. However, fabricating rounds for the Longshot proved to be difficult. The standard sinker was too heavy and the round would drop while flying down range.

I remedied this by testing the optimum weighted round for the Longshot. The standard streamline is 14.6 grains on a gunpowder scale and is in excess of two inches. I experimented and found the optimum length to be 1.75 inches. The most effective weight is 13.6 grains. I have replaced the old fish sinker with shotgun pellets. A single pellet weighs in at .8 grains. A 1.75 inch piece of foam backer rod with five pellets give us 12.3 grains. The way I load the Longshot rounds is to take my foam backer rod and make an "X" shape insicion on the top end. I put five pellets in the incisions like so:



Place a nice dome of hot glue to seal the pellets in. Your end weight should be 13.6 plus or minus. Be sure when placing the pellets to make sure they are evenly spaced so the one side is not weighted more than the other because this obviously causes decreased accuracy and wobbly flight.

When handloading a mega round for the Longshot, the length should be 1.5 inches with five pellets. The weight still comes out to a nice 13.6.

The ranges from these darts fired from a Longshot are as follows:

Micro
Long- 91.3 feet
Short- 83.4 feet
Average- 87.7 feet

Mega
Long- 91.4 feet
Short- 78.5 feet
Avg- 88.4 feet

I find that these rounds I loaded specifically for the Longshot work well with other blasters, too. Therefore, I have made the switch to all of my rounds to the new weight system and make sure every dart is acceptable for combat in accuracy, stability, and hitting power. I suggest before you Nerf, to take about fifty rounds and test fire them. Make sure they are shooting where you want them to. You are bound to find unsatisfactory rounds in your batch. Take only the rounds that will best serve you.

Thus, gentlemen, I will preach consistency when handloading for your blasters. Take pride in your ammunition making. Experiment and see what you can come up with for your different blasters.


I have concluded that the Longshot is more than adequate for all major styles of combat. Once modified, it is pleasingly strong enough to cast rounds well past the 80 foot mark consistently. Some indoor players stray from the use of Stefans and will find that the stock Streamline will perform well. The volume of fire is nearly double that of a traditional muzzleloading Crossbow or BBB.

I hope you find this article useful. Thanks for reading.

Most wars I have seen or heard about here consists of a buncha' guys running around in a park shooting each other. I've done that for many happy years, and by God I love it, I really do. But, here recently we've gone to a larger area to Nerf. We Nerf in a part of my neighborhood that is about a mile or so. We Nerf at dusk and sometimes the wars can go til midnight. We Nerf "all out" about once a month. I recently got back into Nerf after about a year drought and got quite a few guys from school back into it so we go with larger teams of anywhere from ten to twenty people. We play CTF with two bases. With bigger spaces and more people, you must use new tactics. It's not so much as running in a shooting the hell out of a place. It's more of send out patrols and set up gun emplacements. New battlefield implements such as my mounted Razorbeast (seen here:http://nerfhaven.com...topic=4087&st=0) are now coming into play. This actually turns out being in a sense like a real war. One must now fully rely on team work rather than "lone wolfing" it. I know this is a radical departure, but it is fun as hell. I also understand that I have the luxary of many people who participate. I know a lot of you would probably hate this or hate the idea of this realistic warfare. Every Nerfer is entitled to his own opinion. But down here in eastern Tennessee, the "Nerf skirmish" has finally evolved into a "Nerf war."



By the way, out of sheer curiosity... does anyone remember me from the good ol' days back in 1999 on Nerf Online or Nerf Center?

Um... check out my clip fed guns for help:

Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle
Artemis Arms T-26 Carbine Mk. 1

Renegade and ompa have also made successful clip designs.

That's similar to my standard Artemis breech system.

I don't like using couplers. I'm cool like that.

Well done.

I like where you're going with it. Just clean it up a bit and it should be nice. You might also want to think of another grip scheme for it. The grips will no doubt be the hardest to fabricate.


There's a picture of my personal C96 Broomhandle. Hope it helps.

I've seen people request the dimensions for the ammo belt used in the chain guns to make their own since chain is a precious commodity. Well, here are pictures to help you on your quest to make your Razorbeast growl.





Once you pull up the image, click on it to show the full size. The full size photos is almost scale of the real thing.

Enjoy!

I released pictures of some of my custom Nite Finders. They are actually good handguns, but I don't prefer them. When using modified Nite Finders indoors, especially using new springs and rubber banding, they get in the 70 feet range which is superb for indoor combat. Well, as most of you all saw in my last post showing some custom Nite Finders (can bee seen here), they are nifty pistols. I felt that since my Nerfing experiences are now geared torwards indoor warfare, I felt that to have a small carbine that held multiple shots was necessary. I pondered upon what base to build the carbine on and got a wonderful idea from my Jane's Book of Infantry Weapons 1976. I saw many pistols that had detachable shoulder stocks. I thought this was a marvel idea and so I pursued a detachable shoulder stock for my Nite Finders. This is what I came up with:

The stock is inserted into the battery housing in the grip frame of the Nite Finder. The inserts that go into the battery well are made of 1/2" CPVC sanded to down to give a nice, tight fit. These inserts are attached via hot glue and a hefty screw into/onto a piece of 1/2" PVC. There is a 90 degree 1/2" PVC coupler on the back of the stock with another piece of 1/2" PVC in that. I then took some foam and wrapped around the back end for more comfort when firing. Along the left side, I mounted four double ammo holders left over from the Nite Finders. There is electrical tape in the photo, which detracts from the overall beauty, but I have since removed the tape and is more pleasing to the eye.


The Artemis Arms Tec 9 with stock and magazine. As you can see, the ammo holders keep both stefans and stock darts, whatever your preference is.


The Artemis Arms Tec 9 disassembled.


Here the stock is mounted to another Nite Finder. The stock is universal with all Nite Finders.


And here's the latest stock I've fabricated. It's used with SuperMaxx 5000s and SuperMaxx 1000s. Its build is pretty much the same as the Nite Finder's, but mounts differently. I took a 1/2" PVC T joint and cut it out so that it would slide on the back of a SuperMaxx gun with the " ] " shape on the back of the tank. I then drilled a hole and put a screw and wing nut through it to secure it on. To put on or take off the stock takes about five seconds. I know it's not painted yet, but I will eventually.


The simple stock attached to a standard SM5k and the Artemis Arms T-26 Tactical Carbine.


After some accuracy testing, there is enough data to suggest that a stock on a gun improves accuracy and gives the shooter more stability. One might look at these and say that it is cumbersome or unecessary. But, if you know me, you know that I don't like frivolous attachments. I see it as an advantage to mount a stock onto a Nite Finder to increase accuracy and to offer easier access to ammunition. Plus, since the stocks are detachble, it's easy to convert the gun back into the standard form.

Feel free to ask questions. I hope you've enjoyed another Artemis Arms innovation.

The magazine is obviously on the front. But, it does not take a "box clip" like .45s and 9mms do. You load the gun by what is called a stripper clip.

And, yes... this was the gun that Han Solo's DL-44 pistol is based on. We decided to purchase of these beauties in 7.63x25 Mauser, but we're going to convert it to fire 9mm Parabellum.

Thanks.

Yeah, both of these stocks started out to be folders, but I grew impatient and stuck with the fixed style. I'll get around to modifying these into folders. Also, a telescopic stock it already is the works as we speak.

Believe it or not, the SuperMaxx stock doesn't move at all. I cut the joint so that it fits with the contour of the tank and the screw keeps it nice and tight.

Just outta' curiosity...

Has anyone on here ever shot any type of an 1896 Broomhandle Mauser? My father and I collect a wide array of military weapons and we are considering purchasing one of these pistols. I was just wondering how they shoot, accuracy, ect. Here's a picture for reference:


Any information on the acutal shooting would be helpful.

I actually have plans laid out to start on a semi-auto Nerf pistol based on the Mauser design. Probably a four or five shot semi-auto pistol. I'm looking to start on that here in the next week.

No, you can send it to me. I can modify an SSII with my eyes shut. I dunno how many of those I've modded over the years.

Well, I just got my Powerclip up and running again. As afore mentioned, it's a wonderful weapon. I really want to use it in the next war we have here, but I've only got one clip because I haven't had time to go on a wild goose chase to find a couple extra clips.

Well, to remedy the problem of having one clip, I turned to old world military rifles. Most military rifles of the early 1900s were a turn-bolt action rifle with a box magazine (exceptions: 1895 Steyr was a straight pull bolt, the 1889 Schmidt-Rubin was also a straight pull, and the 1886 Lebel had a tubular magazine) that was loaded using a stripper clip. A stripper clip is a piece of metal that holds usually 5 rounds of ammo. You inserted it into the top of the magazine and push down to load the rounds. This was all before the box magazine of the M-16 and AK-47.

I devised a stripper clip and made it from poster board. I cut out roughly the length and width of the PC clip. I took an Exacto knife and cut out holes for each of the 10 spaces on the clip. And here are the results and step by step usage:


The clip loaded with 10 rounds.


The stripper clip beside the PC clip.


Insert the stripper clip into the PC clip.


Push down until the clip is flat again the PC clip.


Now, quickly push all the rounds down into the clip.


The PC clip is loaded and the stripper clip is discarded.


One can produce a PC stripper clip in under 5 minutes, however, this device is in its infancy. A noticeable problem is that the rounds get turned into different directions, thus making it harder to load the PC clip. The other problem is that the poster board is flimsy. I believe if I use a thin wood to make the stripper clips, it should correct both of those problems. This stripper clip system should hold me over until I can secure a couple more PC clips. Feel free to ask questions. I hope you have enjoyed!

Thank you, gentlemen.

I'm glad you used my mod. You need to make some Stefans, bro. I used 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stefans in my pistol to test it. Make sure that there is no air escaping and everything is secure. These pistols really aren't thumpers, so 53 feet with a stock dart is really good. You'll get a lot better results with Stefans. If you have any more questions, feel free to PM me.

Well done, ompa. I did this to my Chainblazer back about three months ago. The CPVC works wonders in chain, too. I had to make 200 of those inserts for all my chain. Blah, it took forever. Very nice work.

That is, if he's still alive.

Seijin and I's current staning thepory is that we'll find him dead in his house on his couch in his underwear with the war channel still turned on.

In the event he ever shows up again, though, happy birthday mother fucker!

The "Die hard Nerf man" died?

Either way, happy birthday oh ye deceas-ed one.

His website was the first website on here that showed me the wide world of modding.

Hey everyone. I've been modding the hell out of the LS, but today was the first day I decided to open up the front gun. As I expected, it was rubbish. But I DID notice that to my surprise, it had a DETACHABLE handle/trigger.

Which naturally leads to the question of weather or not it is possible to make a homemade with the LS handle as your grip. It's quite comfortable and houses a nice little piece that would save a good deal of time making. Can this be done, has it been done, and is it practical?

Also, I have a general question of Nerf Forums etiquette. In one of my topics I posted a picture of a mod. Someone said I should re-do it, as it wasn't as good as it could be. I then re-did it. But I was the last one to post in that topic. It wasn't really important enough to start a new topic about, and I didn't want to double-post. What is the proper "Netiquette" thing to do?

Thank you in advance!

~TCIND

I'm sure you can adapt the front handle anyway you want. For a long time, attached it to the lower bi-pod section and used as a vertical foregrip til I decided to mount a Titan under there.

On the subject of double posting... in your case, a double post would have been deemed acceptable. You were adding to the original subject and bringing the topic anew. If you had just edited the original message, then it would not have showed up as new and thus some people who had already read it would not have checked back to see the new info since it showed no new posts. I believe we can agree that is an acceptable double post.

I was about to say... Tech Target springs, the one that is nice and fat and chrome, is a nice stock spring. I have a broken TT so I used that in the new Nite Finder. The new NF springs are quite flimsy in my opinion. But notice, I'm consistently hitting the 60s, not the 70s everytime. Look at its average.

Thanks for your compliments.

I like it.

All she needs is a magazine system.

Most Nite Finders that have been modified are chambered for the micro sized dart. I have actually seen none chambered for the heftier mega, but heard of one that does use a Nite Finder chambered for the bigger round. I personally like mega darts in my sidearms as the darts are not easily deterred by wind and packs a considerable punch.

I decided to create a mega dart firing sidearm from one of my 6 Nite Finders. Here is what I did:

First, I disassembled the gun. I removed all the air restrictors just like all other Nite Finder modifications.



Here, I glued together the plunger ring and plunger tube cap.


Next, I glued my ring and cap into the plunger tube. Make absolutely sure that everything is glued in sturdy because this could cause your tube to fail later on after use. I then installed a four inch 1/2" PVC barrel by gluing it tightly to the end of the plunger tube. I then wrapped the barrel in electrical tape just to add security. I also added electrical tape to the barrel for cosmetic reasons.

On the shell of the Nite Finder, I Dremeled off the round barrel holder. You can see the barrel holder Dremeled off in the picture below. Next, I Dremeled out the barrel port (where the barrel comes out of the shell) big enough for my 1/2" PVC. Note, the spring I used for this Nite Finder is from a Tech Target pistol.



Here is the final result:




Range

Ammo: 2" 3/0 weighted mega stefans
Long: 75.4 feet
Short: 59.11 feet
Avg: 65.7 feet


The Artemis Arms Bulldog is an accurate sidearm that is rugged and consistent. The range is not that of a micro firing sidearm, but when does a Nerfer engage a target with his sidearm that would require him to exceed 60 feet? The range is compensated by the wallop of its heavier round and its accuracy.

I'm not taking credit as the first to install a mega dart barrel on to a Nite Finder, but I noticed the lack of a write up. As always, feel free to PM me with questions and comments. I hope you've enjoyed yet another Starbuck/Noid modification.

We implemented a melee rule last time I played.

It was ok. Not entirely the most useful thing ever, but kinda' fun.

I made a bayonet years ago for my SM5k. Never used it.

So i cant fix it?

No and yes. No, you can't replace the valve inside. Yes, you can replace the pump tube altogether and remedy the problem.

Post in the trading forum and try to find a new AT2k pump tube. Someone is bound to have one.

It's 2:00 am here in the Confederate States of America, but 'appy new year, you buncha' flunkies!

Shame. In 142 years they haven't updated your textbooks down there?

Happy new year, all.

Eh, when I graduated we were still usin' slate and chisels. Paper came a few years later...

It's 2:00 am here in the Confederate States of America, but 'appy new year, you buncha' flunkies!

I Dremeled mine out to I wouldn't have any sliding around. As for the tape and glue... it's 3m electrical tape and I have no clue what brand the hot glue is. I'm glad it worked out for you.

I then proceeded to mount another weapon to my DT3. This is one of the more odd weapons I have created. It's an Auto-Grip "Boomstick." I Dremeled off everything, leaving only the bare plunger tube. I then nested a 5" piece of 1/2" CPVC in a 2" piece of 3/4" PVC and hot glued into the plunger tube. One of my buddies wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape for reasons unknown to me (). I then took a 4" piece of a metal coat hanger, wrapped it in electrical tape and taped it to the gun and positioned it so that the 4" piece hits the small trigger/release button on the Auto-Grip. All one has to do to fire the boomstick is hit the metal piece (a better picture can bee seen below). This little oddity has an average range of 79.3 feet per shot. Not too shabby at all...


Here is the firing mechanism. As stated before, it's a piece of coat hanger metal attached to hit the trigger when hit or squeezed.


I found that the boomstick fit perfectly into the arrow holder on the belt clip of the weapon. I stuck the hind quarters in the holder and mounted the barrel along the side of the weapon, seen here.


Here is the overall final product. What was once a booed upon piece of junk has now been turned into a 3 shot 80+ feet sidearm.

The Defender T3 I have here is in almost new condition; I believe that contributes to the longer ranges in both the pistol and the arrow launcher.

Official data

Weapon: Defender T3 (released 1996)
Modification: Yes; new spring, surgical rubber, CPVC barrel(s)
Ammunition: 1.5" Stephan; weighted with 3/0 sinker
Wind: light head wind (under 5 mph)
Angle fired from: Flat
Height of gun when fire: 5'5.5"
Terrain fired upon: Flat; grass

DT3 Battle Pistol (new; Pistol #2)
Long: 89'
Short: 81'
Avg: 84.2’

Arrow Launcher
Long: 98'
Short: 82'
Avg: 93.8’

Auto-Grip (Boomstick)
Long: 85'
Short: 74'
Avg: 79.3’

This Defender T3 is the perfect compliment to my new Magnum pistol. When using them in tandem, chaos reigns supreme on the battlefield. I understand that for many of you both the Mag and the DT3 are larger weapons, but since I am a man of larger stature (6’5”), I find it to be no burden to wield both of these weapons on the battlefield. As always, feel free to ask me questions or PM me. I hope you have enjoyed yet another Starbuck/Noid modification.

Thank you, Viper. Yes, I agree about the arrow launcher. It has a larger plunger and spring than the Crossbow, so it has potential that some don't recognize. Many have not given the DT3 a chance.

Well, as many of you all know, I have successfully turned a Defender T3 Battle Pistol into, in my opinion, one of the best pistols today. Well, yesterday I acquired a whole Defender T3 gun (arrow launcher and pistol) with the original box. The box made me laugh... that kid on the back with all that Cyber Stryke junk on... what a dork. Anyway, I started work on the DT3 yesterday and just completed testing today. Here is what I have done:


First, I started with the Battle Pistol.


I dissassembled the gun and took out all the internals. I took a Dremel tool and Dremeled the front two “rings” on the inside of the casing to fit 3/4" PVC. Note, 3/4" PVC is the only thing I had available.


Here is my "bull barrel." It's 1/2" CPVC nested in 3/4"PVC. I cut a 4-inch piece of 1/2" CPVC. Then, I cut a 3.5 inch piece of 3/4" PVC. I wrapped the CPVC in electrical tape. Next, I took a mallet and tapped it into the 3/4" PVC. I then wrapped the 3/4" PVC in electrical tape. Finally, I Dremeled a hole in the plunger tube the size of the 1/2" CPVC and hot glued the new barrel to the plunger tube. I wrapped the back portion of the barrel and the top portion of the plunger tube in electrical tape for additional strength. You can see a better side view of the plunger tube/barrel below.


Here, I took off the plunger assembly and replaced the dinky stock spring with a more powerful spring from a broken Sharpshooter 2.


Here are the internals with the new bull barrel installed.


Here are my two Defender T3 Battle Pistols. Note, that the top Battle Pistol has a longer barrel than the bottom one. This is so that this pistol can fit into the arrow launcher. The bottom pistol is used as a pistol only.


Now to the arrow launcher*. This launcher has the biggest spring I have ever seen (save the Bow n' Arrow). I know people have put this spring into a Crossbow and have gotten great results. I stretched the spring a little bit, first off. Then, I sawed off most of the stock barrel. I then added a 3" piece of 1/2" CPVC to the barrel and wrapped it in electrical tape. Not pictured is the surgical rubber I use to boost the performance. Note, on top of the launcher where the handle used to be is now a sight. See the next section for further details. * (I know this mod has been done before, so I am not taking credit)


What I did here was Dremel off all the handle components. I then Dremeled off the front section of the Armor Shot ammo holder (the front sloped part) and Dremeled a square in that piece. Next, I took the plastic sight out of a Bow N' Arrow and went over the reticle with a fine tipped pen. I then mounted the sight onto the Armor Shot piece to give me my sight. This thing was a pleasant surprise, as I found it to be an accurate device.



See the next post for the rest of the mod...

Thanks, man.

Yes, that's right... a Sharpshooter 1 mod. Oh, my!

I hadn't seen anyone post one nor could I find one while searching through archives and the Internet. It's very simple and produces a pistol that is actually practical for a Nerf war and is a pretty good sidearm. So here it is, my SSI mod:

First, I took the gun apart. I took out the plunger and took off the spring and stretched it real good. Next, I cut off a piece of CPVC that is 4 inches long. I used 1/2 inch CPVC so I could shoot micro sized darts. I took the 4" CPVC piece and I put it down over the rod on the end of the plunger. I marked where the CPVC touch the plunger tube with a Sharpie marker. Here's a picture:


Now, take a saw and cut as straight as you can on the mark you made on the plunger tube. This removes the rod and makes a bigger air hole.

Next, take the 4" CPVC piece and hot glue it to the plunger tube. Hot glue it on really good to create a good air seal. You cannot have any holes between the CPVC and the plunger tube.

Let the hot glue dry. After you let it dry, take some electrical tape and wrap it around the plunger tube. Everything should look like this now:


But, before you can put everything back together, you will have to take a Dremel tool and remove some of the plastic around the hole where the old dart rod went through because the CPVC is much bigger than the original hole. Be care and try to make it even as possible so your barrel doesn't end up crooked.

Now, reassemble the gun. Put on some rubber bands for more velocity. It should look like this:


Here's a picture of the barrel new barrel from the front:


Ranges are as follow:
Long: 68'4" (flat with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Short: 59'7" (flat with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)
Angled: 74'6.5" (with a 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stephan)

Accuracy: 86%(13 out of 15 hit the target) at 45 feet on a 1.5'x1.5' target

This will make good use of that old Sharpshooter that you couldn't shoot do to using type 1 darts. Feel free to ask me questions. I hope you all enjoy it.

Thanks, guys.

Seal, my catch works fine. I really don't have a problem with anything falling off.

We might as well call it "National Mod" week, as I've already posted two mods and I've got a couple more to write up and post.

I had one a year ago and modded it with great success. I cut six 3" pieces of 1/2" CPVC and wrapped electrical tape around them about 3/4 of the length. I Dremeled the exposed portion so that it would fit into the barrels on the drum. I them jammed the inserts into the barrels so that the CPVC fits down in the "slots" so the SuperMaxx air vavles would open. I was consistly hitting over 80 with four pumps. PM me if you have any questions.

TINH is anothe site, but it's primary purpose is to help people modify guns.

TINH

It's really impressive that, with a little work, the orignial nerf dart gun can hold up to the newest.

Oh, yes... with a little TLC, the Sharpshooter can be right on par with most of today's spring pistols. I've been known to tote mine around...

Here in my town, across from the local high school we have some people who do RPG H2H stuff. They dress up like elves and wizards and whack each other with foam swords. They have never gotten in trouble over it. So, what is the difference between whacking each other with foam swords and shoot each other with foam projectiles? I see none. But, every city/town/county is different so I would suggest talking to an officer of the law to make sure everything is cool.

Yes, I used CPVC that I Dremeled to get in there. I can't remember if I had to Dremel some of the insde of the barrel or not. But, regardless I got them in there. You just have to work with it.

I use cassette tape casing for all my clips. They fit micros well and with minor adjuments, fit megas.