Posted by ChaosPropel on 02 July 2011 - 08:21 PM in Modifications

First post in this thread, but not first mods.

Here's a 3k I just finished up overhauling: 12" PETG barrels, Hornet pump replacement, rear-loading, replaced tubing (going straight from pump to tank), glued trigger pin; the works. I had to deal with a few leaks, which is why this took a couple weeks to finish, in addition to being because I wanted to get everything PERFECTO, which I think I almost did.
Please exscuse the crappy phone pics.


Here's a view of the rear-loading slot; very clean, if I do say so myself.


I didn't like the look of having no goo gauge, but I couldn't find a way to put the emptied, disconnected gauge back in the shell, so I did my tubing in such a way so that the tubing connector (quick-slip connect), could fit right inside the goo gauge slot (no shell mods required! fits perfectly!) I like it a lot.


Instead of using a Mr.Mcnumbers barrel spacer, I made my own using his templates and 1.5/16" Home Depot polycarb. Pretty nice.



This thing is seriously overpowered. At about 6-10', and 4 pumps(plugged hornet pump), it puts copperBB domes through cardboard. @ 5 pumps, dome darts usually go through both sides of a nerf AT box, and slugs go through on side. It's Effeminate.

Thanks to Landstricker for the 3k.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 21 June 2012 - 08:28 PM in Modifications

The purple tape makes it 50000% more swagtastic.


Supah comfy wye pump handle, mechanically fastened. 1" x 1/2" bushing up top, mechanically fastened as well, dead space filled with hot glue.


Thanks to Hoongfu for the help.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 16 August 2012 - 08:58 AM in Modifications

I haven't gotten around to really doing anything to Ellen Page yet, as I was just in China for a month. Got lots of cool stuff planned though.
I was dicking around with the blaster today, and realized a Raider priming handle had a nice friction fit in the front area of the gun. Cleanest integration ever, lulz.




I also buttplugged modified a Draconis rocket to shoot Jacksons. Money shot?

Posted by ChaosPropel on 26 November 2010 - 09:14 PM in Modifications

Before I start, I would like to express my gratitude towards Broken_SVT, who helped me LOADS on this project. Thanks, man!

With only 4 months of nerfing experience, after going $20 over budget, and one week of work, it's finished...

My Angel Breeched Longshot....
Here's a view of the closed breech from the jam door:

I originally intended to make my breech completely "stock"-exactly how Angel's writeup explains it. However, I had to do some improvising, since none of the writeups I found told you exactly where to cut the black bolt-piece down to. I realized mid way through the bolt assembly that when my barrel when into the 19/32" brass, it was stopped, and hit the 9/16" stub before the breech was completely closed. This is how my "new" design came along.

Basically, as the 9/16" barrel "half pipe" slides into the 19/32" brass and over the 1/2" brass, it slides over the 17/32" brass, and eventually is stopped by the 9/16" stub. However, for a 100% air-tight seal, plugging the air-release hole is still necessary. The 19/32" slides into the black piece a little bit. This is necessary for the 19/32" to be supported in the assembly, since the 9/16" does not protrude out of the piece. I still kept the 9/16" stub at the end to support the 17/32" and 1/2", and to create even more of a seal, if the half pipe touches it (this was more of an "attempt/experiment").

Suprisingly, my breech works almost flawlessly (the priming is quite hard, due to the excess friction between the barrel and the 17/32" stub), and opens enough to chanber a dart ~2-2.5" in length.

I did not feel that a writeup is necessary for this, but if people feel it is, please PM me and I will consider making a writeup. I personally feel that using this method makes the bolt-section a lot more versatile, and easy to make (measurement-wise and "getting everything to fit" wise).

Here's a view of the opened breech from the mag-well:


I am officially naming my Longshot "Colossus", after the great Greek statue. I love the gun, and I think that this is a great personal achievement.
With a stock LS spring, Recon Spring, and Lanard Shotgun spring, I'm getting 85-90'. I have yet to integrate the LSFG, but I am pretty happy with the gun without the integration. I may do it in the future, though.

Here he is in all of his holiness-


If anyone has any questions or comments on my breech or gun in general, please feel free to talk to me through PM's.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 09 January 2012 - 06:38 PM in Homemades

Posted by ChaosPropel on 07 July 2011 - 06:38 AM in Homemades

Finished up my latest homemade, a RCP-Ring Catch Pump (similar to the one Diamondback posted 2 post back) on Monday, but was too lazy to take pics then...
It's not completely, done; I still have to remove some sharpie writing and find a way to un-fuglify the handle. I was careful, also, to keep the words "Reclaimed Water-Do Not Drink" from the side of the 1.5" thinwall PVC (FlexPVC Purple) visible...

Here she is in all her awesomeness; don't mind the pink sheets...they're NOT MINE!
The main blaster body is 1.25" PVC, with 1.5" thinwall PVC as the pump grip. The catch is a ring-catch, with an angle iron on the bottom as a trigger. There is a piece of 2" PVC as the sheath of the back-half of the blaster, with a 1.25" PVC tee inside of it(which goes over the 1.25" slotted piece/plunger rod guide @ the back of the blaster), acting as the stock. The handle is made of 1.25" PVC. Everything hwith here (besides the stock) is screwed in with 1/2" or 3/4" countersunk wood screws (#6).


For the handle, I didn't like the idea of having a 90 degree pipe, so I improvised a bit. I cut a 2" piece of 1.25" PVC, then a 3-4" piece at an angle. I then solvent welded them together, after which I put JBweld to reinforce/bulk up, as well as e-putty on the inside to reinforce.
It's looking quite fugly right now; I'll be fixing it sooner or later...


All in all, this thing was a total blast to build, works flawlessley, is quite comfy, and would be an awesome RBP-type blaster addition to ANY arsenal!

MONEY SHOT!

Posted by ChaosPropel on 22 December 2011 - 09:16 PM in Homemades

So after my personal-use Snapbow broke at DCNF2 (after serving me through most of the day, very well) bcak in September, I've been meaning to build another one. I originally intended it to just be a standard snapbow, but, along the way, I, well, decided to give it some smexy upgrades.

Here she is:

She's rocking a custom cut poplar wood thumb-hole stock (thanks to Langley and Andtheherois for inspiration for the stock design), completely sanded, rounded, and smoothed with 320 grit sandpaper. This thing is amazing to hold.
The snap also has a 1/2" PVC foregrip, as well as a very smooth trigger. The board at the back of the stock is 1/4" thick wood, I believe it's poplar as well. The stock rod at the top is 3/4" oak dowel. Bushing is a 1" x 1/2" hex bushing, pretty standard. Standard superlative plunger head seal.

Closeup on the stock:


There's also some black foam at the back to pad the stock, making it hella comfy to hold/wield:



This beast is seriously awesome to shoot. It uses a 12" plunger tube, and has a little over 6 inches of draw, making it very wieldy while maintaining a nice amount of power. I really like it, and I anticipate it being (one of) my primaries for a while.

Everything on this is completely mechanically fastened, with the exception of the foregrip (PVC pipe) to plunger tube connection, which is glued with large amounts of high-temp hot glue, simply beause putting screws there would be ruinous.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 06 January 2012 - 09:44 PM in Homemades

I've put aside my pumpbow project to work on a Fallopian Mk2....here's what I have done today, which I did over about 3-4 hours of light labor with some breaks and a dinner.

You can see that I have the plunger rod done (except the catch notch, which will come last). This was a real challenge, as in the Fallopian, at least under my measurements (which include 6" draw), there is 13.5" room for a spring. However, the [k25] I'm using is only 11"-that means I need a 1.5" spacer at the front of the plunger rod, behind the head. I used some 1/2" PVC, superglued to the 1/2" delrin plunger rod. However, the [k25] still rode up the PVC, so I made a custom disc out of a PVC endcap (too lazy for polycarb, lol), with a 1/2" hole, and an OD big enough to hold/block the spring, while small enough to still slide in the 1" PVC inner float support. That's the white thing you see. Then there is etape under/to the left of that to stabalize the [k25]/center it.
There's also the rainbow catch I made for it and the SSSB stock I'll be using, similar to Zorn's original build.
I hope to get this finished up tomorrow morning.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 20 June 2012 - 06:14 PM in Homemades

Oh children...


It's a plusbow. Shortened from the original design, metal plunger tube, U-cup seal, delrin plunger rod, polycarbonate handle (three layers of 1/4" thick PC), and clear polycarb sideplates, that I made prettier with craft foam. Purple and orange are classy.







It's only about 1" shorter than a stock crossbow. I took an inch off the plunger tube, and the sideplates are only 12" long.

She'll be at DCNF.

EDIT: Updated with better pics.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 01 August 2013 - 08:48 PM in Homemades

Double Rainbows are the best and Koree's the coolest for pushing the design through his birth canal.

I made a Double Rainbow today.



There is a dinosaur on my Double Rainbow.



She has pretty blue eyes. Like Ellen DeGeneres.



These are her buttocks. They are nice buttocks.



Shown here with a swagful dart pouch I made for the war this Saturday. The dart pouch also promotes world peace.



Shown here with a swagful pump grip I made for it (HDPE) that I won't be using because it promotes white supremacy.



Closeup on the pump grip for the white supremacists viewing this post.



Here's what I'll be seeing all day Satruday. Just add a few ugly men in front. Use your damn imagination.



Here's your porn.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 29 November 2011 - 05:48 PM in Homemades

Posted by ChaosPropel on 20 January 2011 - 05:32 PM in Homemades

Posted by ChaosPropel on 04 August 2012 - 09:05 AM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 02 August 2012 - 03:24 AM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 21 May 2012 - 04:22 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 08 March 2011 - 08:15 PM in Homemades

Posted by ChaosPropel on 07 August 2012 - 07:07 PM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by ChaosPropel on 01 January 2011 - 10:41 PM in Homemades

Hey guys,

Just got back from a week long vacation ...
Anyway, I finished up building my own version of this last week. I used a 1/2" CPVC plunger rod, 2 4" HD Industrial Springs, a SNAP style "washer sandwhich" plunger head, a 1 1/4" PVC plunger tube, and a 3/4" tee as the main tee.

**Pics coming soon**

Overall, it was a very fun blaster to make, though there are a bunch of little details, as Ice mentioned.
I will be building another variant (with a 1 1/2" PT) soon, and I have a few questions for Ice and any other R3L builders-

-What did you use for the back bushing?(the one that connects the PT to the Main Tee) (considering you used a 1.5" PVC PT)
-What did you use for the front bushing? Do you recomment a bushing that slips OVER the 1 1/2" PVC, or one that nests INTO the PVC?

--Chaos

Posted by ChaosPropel on 29 January 2012 - 08:20 AM in Nerf Wars

February:
[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22092]26th [MD] DCNF 3[/url]

Posted by ChaosPropel on 22 May 2012 - 06:28 PM in Nerf Wars

 
May: 
[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22615&pid=316014&st=0&#entry316014] 23rd [MD] DCNF#5[/url]

Posted by ChaosPropel on 26 June 2011 - 08:25 AM in Modifications

Why did you get rid of the plunger tube support bracket? Or did it break?

I know I'm not Zorn, but I figured I'd save him a post..
He got rid of it so the new catch could move freely:

To make room for this new catch, we need to make some cuts in our shell

Also, Zorn, is that a polycarb circle or eputty under the rubber washer on your plunger head?

EDIT: Post #100, whoot.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 18 April 2011 - 07:53 PM in Homemades

Posted by ChaosPropel on 19 January 2011 - 04:26 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 16 January 2011 - 05:23 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 06 December 2010 - 03:19 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 30 November 2010 - 08:27 PM in Nerf Wars

I can most likely make any date that you guys decide on, but sudden schedule changes do happen..

Posted by ChaosPropel on 01 December 2010 - 07:12 AM in Nerf Wars

I don't mean to post-jack, or anything, but....
Since we have gotten so many people who are clearly active nerfers in the MD/VA/DC area reply to this post, I propose that we start a group of people/wars similar to BAFF, where we have monthly/bi-weekly wars. The purpose of the BAFF wars was to bring wars to an area that didn't have many wars, but had many nerfers. However, we would need to have at least ~5-7 confirmed people (people that want to do this, and CAN do this) before we could actually START.

Just an idea

Posted by ChaosPropel on 06 March 2011 - 06:36 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 27 January 2011 - 06:50 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 09 March 2011 - 08:50 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 09 June 2013 - 06:28 PM in Nerf Wars

July:
[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24029&st=0#entry330690-url]July 13th [MD] DCNF#7[/url]

Posted by ChaosPropel on 05 July 2013 - 08:21 AM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 04 August 2013 - 10:44 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 08 August 2013 - 04:58 PM in Nerf Wars

Posted by ChaosPropel on 02 June 2011 - 07:16 PM in Darts and Barrels

Yep. GE Silicone I works.
I've been getting a lot less odour than what everyone else seems to get, so I was wondering about that.

YESSS! I'm so glad, since I just ran out of my first Walmart tube! Woohoo!
Also, today, I tried using less corn starch, and the odor was considerabely lower (I think my previous comination was a little too starch-rich).
I'll post pics of my 2 latest batches (I did 2 pours today ) when they're ready.

Posted by ChaosPropel on 02 June 2011 - 05:43 AM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by ChaosPropel on 01 June 2011 - 03:59 PM in Darts and Barrels

My first batch of gumdrops that were the shape I wanted (I had tried a batch before that one, but the shape came out screwed up) turned out pretty good-I think the height of 1/4" is just right-any more and the dart will seem TOO long. It still seems, however, that my heads are shorter/subbier than Shmmee's. It may just be his camera angle, though.

I just finished pouring my 2nd "correct" batch (a total of 60). I'll post pics of my first batch later today (they've already be glued to FBR), and my 2nd batch when they're ready.

Some tips for people planning to attempt this (Shmmee and DarkSircam, please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong)
-DEFINETELY do this outside, or in a room with AT LEAST 1-2 windows. The fumes ogoo releases will "burn" your nostrils if you breathe it in. What I do it I mix the sili and starch outside, and then let the board cure outside for the first 2 hours, then bring it in so I can know exactly when they're ready, without having to go outside.
-Instead of using the drill bit that comes with the DeWalt countersink bit, I used a 5/32" bit , since it made less (VERY SMALL) of the aforementioned (previous comments) "moat."
-Home Depot only sells the DeWalt bits in packs of #6, 8, and 10, for about $25. I got this pack, since HD and True Value are the only hardware stores near me. Also, the countersink portion of all 3 bits are the same, so you have 2 backup countersinks in case you need 'em (although I doubt you will).


I think that the pointy heads are a sufficient down-grade for pain-as in they are a billion times softer than traditional glue domes-, so I don't think that cylindrical heads/adding felt padding on top is really necessary. Honestly, you don't know JUST HOW SOFT these things are untill you've made them... Also, the "angled hits" phenomenon that people experience with slugs may happen with the flat head darts, although it would hurt less, it would probably still hurt more than a flat-on hit, which is rare.

Sorry if this post was a bit unorganized-I just have a bunch of stuff I'd like to put out there .

Edit: here are some pics of my mold board and some darts from my first batch (2nd batch/pics coming soon)

Posted by ChaosPropel on 31 May 2011 - 05:47 AM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by ChaosPropel on 25 April 2011 - 07:06 AM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by ChaosPropel on 20 June 2011 - 07:17 AM in Homemades