Search for clip, There fave been many. I believe renegade made one and umm snifil.

-DTR

Slug that looks like it has some potienal A single valve opening into many short barrels but for the amout of barrels that are in the pic you will need a pretty big airtank. There is also another problem where if the bottem barrles fire faster than the top then there won't be as many darts in the air and the scatter might be affected. Also I would stagger the holes in the round if possible so the scatter is better. But overall it shows more potential than any of the explosive ones that have been suggested from time to time.

-DTR

This is to experianced assassins game players. I have started a team assassin game. I have one other person on my team and there are 7 other teams I have to eliminate. What are some good strategies for assassinating the other teams? If you want spicific rules of our game just PM me.

-DTR

I am going to have to agree with monkey in saing that that is BS I made one with an exchanged spring CPVCed and it still doesn't hit 90', maybe 75' on a good day but never 90'. Please show us this gun and its internals so we may actually believe you.

-DTR

Instead of rubber bands you could try to make the ball valve spring opened. Basically you need a strong extension spring and a catch of some form and the opening time will be cut down significantly thus making it go further. I believe spudfiles has a few guns with a system like this. Hope it helps.

-DTR

I can tell you that a clothspin trigger is amazing. It worked on my 25LB. spring.

-DTR

Bobafan got it right on thats how it works. and yes you do put multiple darts in the tube on the side.

-DTR

So this is my new BBB mod it is essentially the same thing as nitewalkers but I used a different technique to build it.

While he cut the tube to an angle and glued it into a holder I used a grill and heated up the CPVC pipe and made it malleable and bent it to the desired shape in this case an "S" like shape. The trick to this is to get it hot enough to be bent but not so much that it begins to turn into a liquid, also you need to keep it from deforming the general roundness of the tube at the bends because it will flatten out slightly if it is forced to much to bend. You also need to be careful that parts you dont want to bend dont because if you heat it up all the heated parts will bend slightly

After you bend the pipe to the correct shape you will need to cut a hole in it for air input to be attached to. I used my dremal and just cut it out. I used some 1/2 inch PVC for a support for it so it would be straight. I used hot glue and glued it together and made it complete.



For the dart advancer I used a modified pump from a water rocket toy. Here is a picture of it http://www.spacetoys...FRW16-1.jpg.jpg . I simply attached the pump to a 1/2 inch cpvc endcap with a length of tubing.

So it was a relativly simple build that I had been planning for quite some time but only have just now gotten around to it. There are still some issues with the advancing of the darts that need to be worked out but otherwise it works fine. No ranges as of yet but once I get it all fixed I will get them up.
Questions, comments?
-DTR

Ok I am making a magazine for my new homemade gun and I need to know what size music wire I should use for it as in the homemade boltsniper makes he doesnt give sizes. I would apriciate knowelegable help from people with experiance in this area.

-DTR

Thank you good sir, you have helped me alot.

-DTR

Well this is what you have been waiting for. I finally got off my lazy ass and got to painted the guns. So without further ado I give you AEQUITAS and VERITAS. The twin pistols. The referance incase you didn't catch it is from Boondock Saints. I painted both guns with krylon fusion black paint then used testors white paint to paint on the symbols. So here is what you all waited for some gun porn







I plan on putting on a coat of clearcoat to protect the white paint on it. Also the writing on the sides are correct to the movie. Because in the movie AEQUITAS is written on their right hand and VERITAS is written on their left hands. Oh and on a side note I guess I was wrong one of the handles broke off while I was painting so you were right I was wrong. Next time I should probably roughen the surfaces of the PVC or something like that.
So more questions or comments?

I believe it cost under 10 dollars or near that for one gun. However to get all the parts needed iwould probably cost in the range of 20 dollars if you didnt have the pieces of PVC needed.

-DTR

Nicely done. I like how you built the handle on a lower receiver...it'll make it easier to get to the clothespin if you need to. It brings the sort of modularity that the GNS has to the SNAP...very cool. Although, I wonder if hot glue will be enough to hold on your handle. It always fails on me...sometimes sooner, sometimes later, but it always does. If you roughen up the surface you're attachng it to, super glue will work very well. I haven't had a handle fall off since I strated using that. (It's what Boltsniper uses).

Also, what do you think of the trigger at the front of the pin, as opposed to back by the pivot? I tried it that way once, but never in a full size version. Does the lever action feel weird at all?

It doesn't feel weird at all. The reasoning beheind it is that with the trigger the other way I was having problems with it misfiring. And I Have had no problem with the hotglue because I put alot down the center of the PVC pipe so It holds really well. Like half a stick or more of it works quite well.

-DTR

I don't know how much I would sell it for but really my making 10 guns really depends on the interest level of people. However if it is just low interest I still might make some but not nearly so many. But if anyone really wants one just post here or PM me and depending on that I might make some.

-DTR

It took me about 4 hours probably not including drying times for the epoxy. But I can't say how long for sure because everytime I did one step I had to come up from my basement to take a picture. But four hours is a good estimate I would say if you did it nonstop. However I may be making about 10 more of these and sell them on ebay.

-DTR

Thanks for all the replys guys. sorry its taking me so long on the paintjob but I have been really lazy lately and it is the the fourth of july and I went boating all day long. So that ate up my whole day but I will try to get it done before the end of the week.

-DTR

Yes it was infact now I thank you for catching that and it is now fixed. Also The hot glue is fine it only broke one time and that was because someone syepped on it. So it is fairly strong and holds well.

-DTR

You didnt overlook the ranges I havent officaly range tested it yet because its dark and I want to do it right. But i would say its in the range of 75 feetish. And As I said the blue marks are temporary until I paint it up and detail it in the next 2 to 3 days.

-DTR

The MPSP is my newest homemade in my series of guns. This is a Snap based gun with my own characteristics.
Here it is:

What you will need to make this beast of a foam firing weapon is
-1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe (outer shell)
-1 inch PVC pipe (for one part)
-2, 1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (for catch and end piece)
-3/4 inch PVC pipe (pistol grip)
-2, 3/4 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (For inner parts and plunger head)
-1/2 inch PVC pipe
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-angle iron
-washer with OD about that of 3/4 inch end cap
-#6 1/2 inch pan head screws
-cloths pin
-25 LB spring
-1 and 1/2 inch neoprene washer

Part 1 Front end cap
Materials
-1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-1/2 inch PVC pipe
-super glue
-dremel with sanding drum and cut off wheel
-electric tape
OK so what you have to do is cut a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe the length of the hole in the reducer. Then you glue that piece into the reducer using superglue. It should look like this

Next take your handy dandy dremel and using a cutoff wheel cut the back part of the reducer off. Now using a drum sanding part for the dremel sand the inside of the 1/2 inch PVC pipe till you can fit a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC inside of it. Now add some electric tape around the outside of it till it fits snuggly inside the 1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe. It is now complete this is how it should look


Part 2
This is the other end cap and will serve as a hold for the plunger part.
materials needed include
-3/4 inch PVC end cap
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-electric tape
-PVC cutters or hack saw
-hot glue
-drill with bit set
-dremel with sanding drum
Take your end cap and cut a hole in the end of it using a bit that will fit a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC into it the more centered the better but it doesn’t need to be perfect. Here is what it looks like

Now take your coupler and using PVC cutters or dremel with cut off wheel cut the coupler in half but leave one side with the actual divide seen inside of it. it looks like this

Save this piece for later. Take the piece without the divider in it and take the dremel sanding drum and get it so a piece of CPVC will slide through it easily but it must be able to keep the piece stable. Now wrap the coupler in electric tape till the outside matches up with the inside of the end cap. Place it inside and the glue it in with hot glue. It is now done and looks like this

Part 3
This is the inside coupler bit that holds the barrel and stops the plunger form exploding out the front.
Materials needed
-1 inch PVC pipe
-3/4 inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-superglue
-dremel with drum sander
-PVC cutters or hacksaw
Ok this piece is relatively simple take the leftover half of the coupler from part 2 and dremel the outsides till it fits into the 1/2 inch side of the reducer. Using superglue secure it. Next dremel the inside of some 1 inch PVC pipe till the reducer fits inside it. It will now look like this

Then cut the reducer down to the part where the 1/2 inch section ends. Add some layers of electric tape till it fits snugly and set this piece aside for later. This is the finished part


part 4
The plunger is probably the most time and labor intensive part of the entire gun. It will take many parts and is the main piece of the gun.
materials
-1/2 inch CPVC and PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-washer with OD about that of 3/4 inch end cap
-3/4 inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-3/4 inch PVC end cap (rounded top is preferred)
-1 and 1/2 inch neoprene washer
-# 6 1/2 inch pan head screw
-small washer to keep the screw and neoprene wash on
-superglue
-dremel with cutoff wheel and sanding drum
-drill with drill bit set
Ok ill divide this into 2 separate to keep it simple
The first part will be the plunger head. To make this you take the 3/4 inch reducer and the 3/4 end cap and you first need to cut them down to make them smaller and lighter. Cut down them about 1/4 of an inch each and then so the fit together evenly. Glue them together using super glue. they should look like this

Now take some 1/2 PVC pipe and cut it to the insert length of the reducer on the 1/2 inch side. Glue this in with super glue and dremel out the insides so that 1/2 inch CPVC can snuggly fit inside it. Now comes the tricky part you must mark the center of the end cap for the drill hole. I just guesstamated it and used permanent marker to mark it. Drill with a slightly smaller drill bit then the screws and using the drill, drill the screw in with the neoprene washer and small wash inside it. It should not look like this.

Next part takes a while for me due to the lack of parts at my home depot but you may have more luck than I do. If you don't using a drill bit like this

Drill out the inside hole in a washer to the OD of CPVC pipe. It’s simple but gets annoying if your clamp doesn’t work well. Now take your 1 inch reducer put a length of 1/2 inch PVC pipe inside it as all the other times before and dremel out the inside till it snuggly fits 1/2 inch CPVC. Now cut down it so the part with the 1/2 inch piece is in is all that remains with the nub part. Now this also takes awhile to do dremel down the outsides so it looks almost like a dome. It should look like this now

This second part is now done. Now to put them together you will need a length 1/2 inch CPVC pipe to connect them. Put the plunger head part on first. Super glue it on and push the CPVC all the way on till it bottoms out. This is how it should look

Next figure out the length you will need I got roughly 10 and ¾ inches of it. This can be trimmed at the end but this is a good starting point. Now take the washer that you bored out and put it on first next the other piece with the curved part facing away from the plunger head. Now you want to get it as close a possible but still have room for the catch nail. So give about 3/16ths of an inch and this is only an approximation for my nail. Use a little bigger amount than you nail that you plan on using. Now super glue this thing in place and make sure you got it right the first time because super glue works very fast.

Now if you want to add a small bead of hot glue around the inside of the washer to keep it there. The completed part will look like this.

Sorry having problems with picture limit





Now the spring needs to be prepared the spring comes in a pack of two and we will be using 1 and a half of them so you need to take your dremel and cut one in half. They should now look like this


Now put the springs on and then put on the end cap part 2 to it and you’ll have completed all the internals.

Congratulations you completed the first step
Next is the outer part that holds all of these and the trigger mechanism (ie. carbons trigger type or clothespin trigger).
materials
-1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC pipe
-epoxy
-PVC cutters or hacksaw
-drill with drill bit set
-sand paper
-hot glue
-4 #6 1/2 inch pan head screws
-Nail (preferable a strong one)
-angle iron
-clothespin
Ok this is one of the easiest parts but requires a lot of precision drilling and time due to drying. First cut two lengths of 1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe to 9 and 3/4 inches. After this you need to mark out where the internals are and where the catch hole will need to be drilled so mark out the parts with it next to the shell. The catch hole for mine was about 3 and ¾ inches in but this may vary so be sure to measure it out. With it all marked out the next phase can begin. First put all the parts inside it and the drill two holes into part 1 and part 2. Like seen in the picture below

(note ignore the holes and only concentrate on the blue permanent marker)
Note these holes are not all the way through the part and are just pilot holes for the screws that are now needed. Now screw the screws in and then take them out. Now we need to glue in the stop plate AKA part 3. Put in the plunger and end piece (part 2) and have this screwed in. Now make sure the plunger is in with the springs not bouncing around but also not compressed so just on the border. Now take your hot glue or if you really want to super glue and glue this in making sure it is in there mildly well. As seen in picture

Now put the other end piece in and screw it in. Now comes the trigger mechanism. It is basically a carbon based clothespin trigger mech so it is really easy. Now take your clothespin and cut it down and drill a hole in it as seen in the picture

Now take your angle iron (while any piece of metal with a bend will work I find it’s easiest to use an angle iron found at your local home depot) and your nail. Using the dremel and cut off wheel cut down the nail to about an inch this should also be created to your gun however because if its too long it will hit the spring if its too short it won’t catch or will have trouble catching so a happy medium needs to be found. Now take your sand paper and sand down the angle iron and nail and bottom part of the clothespin. This will ensure good bondage with the epoxy. When the epoxy dries it will look like this

Now we need to drill that catch hole so take the shell part with all the internals and take a drill bit a bit bigger than your nail and drill into the area calculated on your markings. Now this may need to be drilled again because I have found that sometimes the nail catches on the inside of this and have troubles. Now take your entire catch assembly and hot glue it on the shell and the nail in the hole as seen below be sure to be liberal with the glue and round those edges because rounded edges take force much better than globbed edges (this is actually true thank you intro to shop class).

Now once this is dry and you want to try it go ahead this is a good time to see if it works and if you need to make adjustments.
Troubleshooting for this part
Problem: The nail comes out and gets stuck
Solution: This is natural and will happen but if it isn’t going back in smoothly then you will need to break out the drill and drill out the hole for the nail a bit. Not a bigger size mind you but just use the bit and angle it so it removes some of the inside PVC
Problem: the plunger isn’t accelerating fast or nearly fast enough.
Solution: add lube I personally use stuff for paintball gun o-rings because I have it but some other common lubes I have heard of is silicon spray (however I find this is more of a short term solution), vegetable oil, and soap. Now I’m not saying any of these should be used over the others use whatever you want these are only suggestions.
(if I encounter any more problems at this stage I will give you solutions or if you need help I will help you and add it here)
Congrats you have completed the basic gun now for the lower receiver
This part also takes a bit of time to get done and also needs attention to details.
Materials
-1 and ¼ inch PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC
-3/4 inch PVC pipe
-Balsa wood
-#6 ½ inch pan head screws
-epoxy
-sandpaper
-drill with bit set
-dremel with cut off wheels and drum sander (or a hacksaw and file if you don’t have a dremel)
-hot glue (and lots of it)
Ok so now we begin the lower receiver. This Part is last but still important for the gun it incorporates your handle and covers the trigger mech. I will divide this again into two parts first is the cover. Take the length of 1 and ¼ inch PVC for when you made the shell or if you didn’t read well before cut a length of 1 and ¼ inch PVC the same length as the shell. Ok now take this and match it against the back and see how big you need to make it. This will need to allow the trigger to move yet still not be too big. I find it best to size it up by eye and go for a little bit small because that’s what a dremel is for. But if you don’t have one go for a bit bigger. Ok now that you have measured it now draw lines in permanent marker along the sides like seen below

This is where you need to cut fairly simple so take out the dremel with cutoff wheels and begin cutting (note to all those kiddies out there Wear fucking eye protection these cut off wheels shatter and fly all over the place at high speeds. While these places could be harmless it could also be your eye and that wouldn’t be pleasant now would it). After you finish cutting it out now you need to make the trigger hole. Mark it with a permanent marker and cut it out using your dremel. Now you need to make it look nice so you’re your dremel or file whichever and sand down the sides of it so it only contacts the shell at one point and makes it look better over all. This is what it will look like

Now you need to fit this and I know what your thinking electric tape no, no electric tape. This is a beautiful thing we are making not a rag tag thing so you need to make supports for it so bust out the 1 inch PVC pipe and cut two pieces of it about 5/8th inches across (this isn’t exact just a rough estimate). So now you need to attach these so take your cover and place it on the shell in the location it is going to stay. Now if you don’t want to hold it there while you measure you can use electric tape temporarily secure it in place. For you inexperienced this is a good idea. Now you may ask why I didn’t you do this when you were making the shell and my answer is simply this it is much easier and more effective to do it this way as it gets a much better fit. Now take the pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe and match them up against the side and mark them where it intersects the shell and stays within the cover. Here is a pick of me doing this

Repeat this for the front and back with the two pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe. Now don’t confuse these two parts if need be write F and B on the parts. Now cut off the part that is not needed. Now I find it easy to get it right on the first time but if you want to you can make it a bit big so you can sand it down to fit the sides of the shell better. Now mark on the shell where these two pieces will go you want them about ¾ of an inch in form the sides. Now roughen up these spots with sandpaper so the epoxy will adhere well to the surface. Now epoxy these pieces on and make sure you do it right it’s a pain in the ass to redo. Here is a picture of it

While you wait for your epoxy to dry this is a perfect opportunity to make your pistol grip. So this is the second phase. Get a length of ¾ inch PVC pipe (while I use this because it suits my hands best you can use whatever you like to make it hell I don’t care if you use 2 inch PVC if it suits you but here is how I make them). Ok so take your ¾ inch PVC and cut it into 2 lengths and cut the ends at an angle to give it a better look (unless you like the straight vertical grip in which case ignore this step). Now match up the pieces next to each other and mark where they match like so

Now take one and cut it vertically and so more is on one side then the other. Arrange the pieces so it goes fat half whole piece the skinny half in that order and glue them together. It will look like this

On now once this is dry take your hacksaw and cut off any uneven edged at the top and bottom so it looks uniform and like a pistol grip. Now take the top part and get you dremel and sand it down with an angle like the cover has so I attaches better. Ok once this is done get you cover piece and attach the grip just behind the trigger hole and use hot glue to secure. Glue the contact points the around the base of it then down the middle of the whole PVC tube in the pistol grip. When attached it will look like this

Now once the epoxy has fully cured it is time for the next step. If there is any epoxy that seems excess or you got it where you didn’t want it then it’s a simple mistake and you can just sand it away. Now place the receiver over the parts that it was meant to be placed on and figure out where the 1 inch piece is underneath it and mark these with a permanent marker. Now get your drill with drill bits and get a bit that is just a bit smaller than the screws and make two holes in the back one approximately at 60 degrees and 120 degrees with the middle of the shell as the center. Now put the two screws in these and now drill a third hole in the front one at the center and put a screw in this. Also if you want to you can add a layer of balsa wood to cover the front and back holes in the lower receiver and on the bottom of the pistol grip. They will look like this


Now there is one last thing that needs to be done go get a metal clothes hanger. Now drill a hole about the size of the diameter of a clothes hanger wire into the plunger part sticking out the back. Now estimate how long you want your pull back part to be and cut it to length (this varies from person to person so you decide) Now get some sort of foam padding to put on it a pool noodle will work or maybe some FBR. Now use some electric tape and strap it on there because it hurts to pull back without it.

CONGRADULATIONS you gun is now done to the basic amount.

Now if you like to have your gun “pimped out” these are several things you can do
1. Paint nothing doesn’t love a good paint job I recommend krylon fusion it’s designed for plastics its what it does
2. A trigger guard I don’t like them but if you do knock yourself out
3. Sights while some don’t use them and others get caught in holsters the might look cool or you might actually use them
4. a holster useful efficient and cool

This is only the production part of the gun it's all basic and not painted ofr now. But wait and in like 2 or 3 day the gun painted and looking really good so just wait for awhile for it.
Any questions or comments?

-DTR

This thing would be great for a Civil War recreation or somethin'. You could turn it into a rifle and instead of blanks you shoot nerf darts. That would be awesome! I want to try this but I don't know if my dad would allow me to use a lighter and some type of gas. How large is the thing compared to a Nitefinder? Ever thought of adding a stock?

Well there is a permanent marker next to it for size comparason it but it is bigger than a nitefinder. And no I havent thought about adding a stock because it really isnt nessasary. Its fine as is.

-DTR

The spark ignites the fuel inside the chamber. The fuel being axe or hairspray or some other flammable gas. The spark ignites it and then the force of the explosion launches the dart. yes its not practical but its fun

Yeah, instead of flaming darts, try something that doesn't really ignite or hold a metal BB inside of it.

Instead, try taking your end of the barrel to some asphalt to sharpen it, and shoot pineapple, potatoes, or even better, peeled canteloupe. It busts up really good on impact, but stayes together good for loading. Same for the a cored pineapple.

If you notice in my pictures the barrel end on mine is sharped for that very reason. Its commonly known as a barrel knife and is fairly easy to make with a dremal. I have tried potatoes but never the others sounds like fun.

-DTR

You are correct it isnt practical in a war but is just fun to shoot. It really has no kick either and sounds like a paintball gun shooting. And the foam as nerfmonkey said does not catch on fire before leaving the barrel. However with prolonged use the foam does start to get a little melted because FBR really isnt flammable it just melts.

-DTR

Glad everyone liked it, thanks for the responses ask anything else you want to about the gun. O and by the way I plan on putting a writeup for my next homemade out within the week so look out for that (please no questions here about it wait till I come out with it).
Thanks

-DTR

Well seeing as I have many new homemades in my posession and my newfound want to post I suppose I will show you some of my new homemades. This is one of my recent homemades it is a combustion type pistol.

Materials needed
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC (combustion chamber and housing for ignition)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC coupler (combustion chamber)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (combustion chamber to barrel adaptor)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC male coupler (combustion chamber)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC threaded endcap (end part of combustion chamber)
-1/2 inch PVC female coupler (barrel coupler)
-1/2 inch PVC male adaptor (barrel coupler)
-1/2 inch PVC (barrel)
-3/4 inch PVC (grip)
-two bolts (ignition system)
-6 nuts (ignition system)
-bbq ignitor (ignition system)
-PVC glue and primer
-hot glue
This is a fairly simple and cheap homemade to make. It fires stock micros and mega stefans. However it also can be used to fire a volley of airsoft bb's or really anything else that will fit inside the barrel. You need to glue all the pieces together as seen in the picture above. The using a drill crill to holes in the chamber for the botls as seen in this picture

Make sure the bolts are in the correct position and attach the BBQ ignitor. now check and see id the spark jumps the gap between the two bolts for a good ignition. Now cut a piece of 1 and 1/2 inch PVC and trim it to fit the length of the combustion chamber and then tri it so that it fits over the BBQ ignitor. Now the pistol grip. I use 3/4 inch PVC becuse its comfortable to me but you can use whatever you like. I cut two identical lenghths of it at a slight angle the cut one lengthwise and at and angle. The trim them down using a dremal and glue them together using hotglue. Wait for this to dry and attach it to the 1 and 1/2 inch PVC that covers the ignitor at a length comfortable for you. Using liberal amounts of hotglue attach it or if you want to you can use something stronger but hot glue works for me. Now it is ready to fire. Take off the barrel and insert ammo then close that up and open the back endcap spray a small 1 second burst of your fuel into it (fuel can be something like axe which i use or hairspray or anything really flammable gas). Now it is ready to fire point it at your target and pull the ignitor. If you did it right you will have succesfully shot your gun if not the try to get the air to fuel mixture right.
ranges: unknown
fun factor: 8

Have fun with another fine product for DTReaper
Questions comments?

-DTR

@Shadow 92
The flame of the combustion is to cold and to short to melt or even damage the PVC, but if you shoot with hydrogen the PVC vould crack or even EXPLODE. The kind of feul can make a diference if you shoot with haispray it could burn after shooting beacause of a to litle percent oxigen, so the best feul is butane, propane or isobutane because it does'nt leave any mess
Greetings from the Dutch, Jaffe

That is why I use Axe bodyspray it has all three of those ingredients in it. However the only mataninece I need to do to it is occasionally sand off the two metal bolts in it because the other ingerdients in Axe build up on them and then stop it from creating a spark. However what he says is true the combustion is no where near strong enough to melt it and I use thats also why I dont use fuels that are excessively explosive to stop this "explosion".
It honestly is very safe for several reasons
1. It has a very small chamber and therefore needs not alot of fuel and therefore can't have a very big combustion.
2. the PVC size is small and if you look at any chart the smaller the PVC size the higher the PSI capabilities
So with both those things in mind it is very safe. the weakest point if any iswhere the two bolts go in or the end cap both of which have never failed.

-DTR

It took maybe 2 hours to make not including drying times the hardest part was the pistol grip. To your second question I cant answer it because i have no area near my house where I can use this and have a large enough area to calculate the range but it probably at least 75 feet though most likely more.

-DTR

[quote name='Prometheus' date='Aug 2 2007, 12:42 PM' post='118010']
[quote name='Noobish111' post='117987' date='Aug 2 2007, 05:43 AM']
[quote name='DTReaper' post='113168' date='Jun 26 2007, 01:50 PM']
The spark ignites the fuel inside the chamber. The fuel being axe or hairspray or some other flammable gas. The spark ignites it and then the force of the explosion launches the dart. yes its not practical but its fun
[/quote]

Is it me, or does that sound like a moderate fire hazard?

I like the idea, good range for a small gun.
[/quote]

No it's not. Bolty made one, and he had no problems. Just like using actual firearms aren't a fire hazard. Just like driving a gasoline car isn't a fire hazard. What's to catch fire? The melting point of PVC is 212 °C. No way small semi-controlled explosion will burn the gun. I have used an angle grinder to purposely melt the PVC, and it won't catch fire. There is not enough energy to create a combustion reaction, and PVC would burn very poorly if it did catch fire.
[/quote
Thanks for explaining that bit of info so I didn't have to. While bolt also made a combustion gun without realizing it he created a hybrid combustion gun meaning that while normal combustion the fuel isn't kept under pressure where as a hybrids fuel is slightly pressurized. This increases the danger alot and also improves ranges. I maybe making a prototype hybrid pistol but all testing will be done in a safe way. I may go on with that project as I already have all the parts but I have been putting it off for a while so wait for a bit and I may get around to it.

-DTR

Since you have a reciever on it anf its electric couldn't you in theory use it as a trap or something, that would be pretty cool and good job nice first post.


-DTR

You should replace the spring if the spring isnt that good unless its catch is weak.

-DTR

Here is my one and only paint job.

enjoy

-DTR

My only thoughts about multiplayer is now that the weapons do an increadible amount of damage and you die really fast the skill curve is goign to go up in a way. Because if you are new and you aren't used to the game the veteran players will curb stomp you very quickly. However at the same time because of this sneaking is even more important than ever and in conjunction with the new maps which give you an incredible amount of ways to get around it makes it even better. This leads into as others have said the maps are great and play to my style very well. I like sneaking around behind the enemy and killing them and using my other guys as a distraction like a hammer and anvil. In the original there were maybe 3 ways to get from point A to point B now there are at least 5 in every map. The maps besides being vast also have alot of buildings and most you can go in and on top of which is amazing.

The weapons are great and the perks and stuff work well, I mean im only in the teens but I still feel competative amongst the other players at higher levels. My only gripe is that the AA 12's rate of fire is too high for its real weapon I know it is just a little thing but it irritates me. Also the automatic weapons which used to be all over the place when fired before now have a much smaller recoil and can be keep on target amazingly easily which also leads to the ease of death in multiplayer which at first shocked me but now im used to it. Other than that I got nothing but praise.

Overall it is an amazing game and the multiplayer as others have said makes Cod 4 look like shit and unimaginative and linear in style.

it depends on the type of dart you are using. If you are using stock darts or megas I heard that 1/2 inch PVC works well. If you are using micros brass and 1/2 inch CPVC works well for me.

-DTR

Bondo. Thats the simplest answer to your problem. you can mold it to anyshape and its mildly tough.

-DTR

Ok I was at a friends house and he for some odd reason has a maze in his backyard and well I decided that well it would be awesome to have a nerf war there so I brought my guns over and at first they were cautious but soon I got them to play merely because it was shot or be shot. So they hid in the maze and went after them and this maze is only 5 foot high so it had an advantage/disadvantage to be above the maze. So I came in with a moded hidden shot and a moded nite finder, one had a nite finder ex-3, and the other had my DT-3 single barreled gun. And so it was fun. The best part was when one got trapped in a dead end and I shot him with a shotgun blast hidden shot and the nite finder at point blank in the back, now he has three bruises there.

So tell me what you think of the war.

-DTR

Lokk in the modification pics there is a pic there.

-DTR

I put some RTV silicon on the plunger and the turret wouldnt turn so I took some off and it worked better. But the silicon keeps wearing off. Just an idea.

-DTR

I waill not claim this mod as my own. All credit goes to Exterminator @ Nerf HQ!!!!
Exterminator's Mav PVC Mod
I thought this was really good so Im bringing it here.

KirbySaysHi please add to directory.

Ok I would like to say that it is not PVC in the mod it is CPVC. There is a big difference between the two.

-DTR

I wouldn't replace the spring because whan I did that the part on the plunger that catches the metal pin broke clean off. Now I am modding it to be a nightmav.

-DTR

I would not replace the spring I did that to mine and well now I have a broken mav. The catch part on the plunger snaped clean off, so now I'm going to put a NF plunger assembly in there. Somehow?
-DTR