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There have been 9 items by False (Search limited from 13-May 97)
#309572 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by False on 16 January 2012 - 01:50 AM in Modifications
By false_ at 2011-12-02
LS + stock spring, quadded and improved plunger seal.
By false_ at 2011-12-27
SSPB with Hornet tank and PETG barrel.
By false_ at 2012-01-15
By false_ at 2011-12-03
General mods, spring and catch replacement, ARs.
By false_ at 2012-01-15
By false_ at 2012-01-15
Overhauled NF with tacticool light. Picture is from ages ago so the quality is less than impressive...
By false_ at 2012-01-15
#310208 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by False on 27 January 2012 - 05:29 AM in Modifications
#310290 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by False on 29 January 2012 - 03:39 AM in Modifications
#312687 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by False on 10 March 2012 - 09:35 PM in Modifications
By false_ at 2012-03-10
By false_ at 2012-03-10
By false_ at 2012-03-10
#312688 False's guide to painting faux wood
Posted by False on 10 March 2012 - 09:40 PM in Modifications
What you'll need:
- Blaster for painting (herpderp)
- White spray paint
- 'Raw umber' acrylic hand paint
- 'Burnt umber' acrylic hand paint
- Wood varnish
- A couple brushes that you wouldn't mind cutting up a bit.
Paints:
By false_ at 2012-03-10
Firstly, lay down a coat of white (you can still see the last paintjob on mine because I ran out of paint, haha. Also, disregard already-painted bits)
By false_ at 2012-03-10
Secondly, paint 4-6 layers (depending on how dark you want the 'wood' to be- more layers= darker 'wood') of raw umber, doing each layer either with vertical or horizontal strokes (If you do horizontal one layer, do vertical the next, and so on). Try and leave the brush strokes visible because it serves to create a layered effect.
By false_ at 2012-03-10
Then cut up a couple of brushes so that that the bristles are sort of like this: /|/|/| - points on the brush with space between them. For example, these are some that I use:
By false_ at 2012-03-10
Using those brushes, dab the ends lightly in some burnt umber and press lightly along the painted parts of your blaster and drag them along. This creates the 'grain'. It is important not to overdo this bit.
By false_ at 2012-03-10
Now, don't worry if you think that the colours are to blended. That is what the varnish is for. So take some of the varnish and coat the 'wooden' parts in it. It should contrast the colours and make it look like polished 'wood'. If you don't want it to be shiny, just spray a clear, protective coat over it and it will appear still contrasted, but more dull and matte.
By false_ at 2012-03-10
By false_ at 2012-03-10
(This is what my finished blaster ended up looking like:)
By false_ at 2012-03-10
Enjoy
EDIT: I can't reply to any posts in this thread for a couple of days due to my FNG status, any questions during that time should be directed to my inbox.
#312748 False's guide to painting faux wood
Posted by False on 12 March 2012 - 04:21 AM in Modifications
Some more painting tutorials sounds like fun, and droplet effect, eh? Haven't even heard if that one but I'll give it a crack!
#313550 Banshee's Guide to Painting: Part 1
Posted by False on 26 March 2012 - 12:39 AM in Modifications
I am kinda worried about the 'no sanding'. but I just like to worry about it I guess....
Anyways thanks for posting this. I am sure I will do this in the future
Step 1: TAPING
...Prep work would go first, which includes sanding, priming, body filling, etc. and we might get into that on another day.
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