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There have been 145 items by Y-Brik (Search limited from 08-September 92)
@Zack the Mack- Now I suddenly want a barrel break...
My new indoor primary:
BBB spring addition, brass stub in barrel, locks and other junk removed, krylon fusion PJ with rather sloppily applied detailing. Paired with an AT drum, prpbably the only reason to get an AT imo.
Uses [k26] over a nylon plunger rod, a skirt seal, Sch80 for the catch ring, and Ace#2 for the primary catch spring. It's held together with #6 wood screws, countersunk of course.
(Holes are drilled for a string stop; I have to get around to installing it)
I got my magic thinwall PVC at Do It Best- 10' for $4, you can order online and have it shipped to your local store free!
Little discovery- 45 degree PVC bell curves in the conduit section work great on choppers- it's made to funnel wires around a curve and works just as well with darts. I lopped about an inch off the male end (insert jokes here) of mine to keep a low profile, and used a little etape on clip and bell curve to keep everything snug.
Now, to an actual homemade- I got an ObsoleteBow awhile ago and have been making small adjustments to it.
The PVC foregrip is based around a 3/4"x1/2" PVC tee. Also, if you're building one of these (Why? There are RainBows now!), use 5/8" long screws on all nylon rod connections, and use lockwashers.
There's a new (to my knowledge) spring spacer- my long-winded description is on my flickr post. Spring now hits full compression, and the thing shoots hard.
My adapted SNAP. Features 1.5" PVC plunger tube, new (To my knowledge) handle mount, and easy field stripping thanks to the way the stock is screwed onto the endcap. The gun field strips with 2 screws- there's only 4 total (not counting the stock).
The handle slots onto ridges cut into the PVC (This is one of the reasons it uses 1.5" PVC; 1.25" PVC is just too small. The slots are measured out to accept a LSFG handle, but mine broke (Damn you China!) and the PVC one serves me well.
8 round RSCB attachment with tacticool flashlight E-taped on. Stupid Windows photo gallery made the stock look crooked; it's not.
Ranges are ROUGHLY measured at 100'+
I love this idea, methinks we have a true evolution of the Slug (and homemade dart in general) here.
Again, this is a possibility, not a guarantee.
Home depot has CPVC. Ask someone or look harder. In my store it's stacked vertically next to the copper pipe. You need CPVC if you want to fire stefans; I don't think anyone has done a PVC singled LS. Oh, and judging by your post quality, the LS may not be the gun for you to mod. Have you even opened the thing? Is it your first mod? If the answers are what I think they are, forget it. Go get a 4B or a NF and learn before you try such a complex mod.
EDIT: I misspoke, I meant catchRAMP. My Snap uses a PVC catchramp attached to a metal washer for the catchface. Basically take the Superlative and replace epoxy putty with PVC.
A SNAP does not use a flat, vertical catch plate, but rather a pin contacting the plunger (rod or head), mounted on a clothespin trigger.
-The exclusion of a flat vertical cath plate rules out both Rainbow and Plusbow.
-The statement 'A pin contacting the plunger' is accurate with the CPT2 because, well, it does. It just adds a cradle to improve the catch surface area.
+Having 2 Stampedes on the field (And do well too! I was glad to be on their team).
+Ring-around-the-treesie (Ended with one of them Stampedes)
+Eliminator with Stampede shield- the greatest in the sub-optimal category
+ Meeting up with my buddies from Cataclysm
+Here's the deal- Wendys was great!
+Used the hell outta my +Bow
+Chronographs are not only neat- they're 133.7!!
+Got 2 legit wyes and clear PVC for less than I expected to pay
+Everyone being cool (Not just because of the weather) about the relocation
+BIGGEST WAR in the region! Woot!
-Gun breakage. Thank God I brought my electric screwdriver
-Cold and windy! Grab the mobstacles!!
-Lost 80% of my darts
-In-game dart failure. Liquid nails does NOT work on stefans, you hear me Sluggy?
-Had to leave early
+Everyone was awesome
+Meeting BrokenSVT and Kid Flash- both are cool dudes
+My RCP performed beautifully all day- now if only I could aim....
+Water and (almost) toads as alternative ammo
+2-minute 4B mod with a Leatherman
+Culvers- om nom nom
+Seeing some awesome blasters
+Getting some tacticool blasters
+Minimum rain- it turned into a nice day!
+Hanging out w/ Noodleownz on the trek south
-Double Headshot (what does it mean??)
-Getting shot in the forehead 4 times throughout the war
-very overgrown field- killed dart recovery
-Nobody had enough bullets!!
-High RoF means high reload times
-Iron Man Magstrike
-Getting pinned down by an AT multiple times
It is, that's why he still needs a spring. Think people, think!It fits very loosely over CPVC. I don't care about theories, I own it, and it works great on 1/2 cpvc. It's OD is 1" with .092" wire diameter.
A k45 theoretically doesn't even fit over 1/2 cpvc let alone pvc.
Isn't your plunger rod 1/2 PVC and not 1/2 CPVC
1. find smarter employee. Ask if there's a plumbing specialist in-store
Yea. The guy had no idea what i was talking about. i had to explain what cpvc was and he still didnt know what i was talking about. Then i looked up and down the plumbing and electrical aisles and couldn't find it.
2. CPVC is used mostly in potable (drinking) water as a substitute to copper tubing- as such it's near the copper tubing (In my experience anyway).
While Im here, what springs are you using? I'd recommend [k26] (Plusbow spring) which you can order off McMaster or buy from Split's sales thread.
A few observations/suggestions:
-Have you considered making the code interrupt-driven? It may be neater code, and save battery. Basically, instead of polling all the I/0 all the time, the arduino will "notice something has changed" and run the appropriate code.
-For user IO, I really like that OLED display, maybe integrated into the cheek rest if there isn't enough room where you have your ammo counter. I may be hitting the garage sale myself when the paycheck hits!
-If you go with the OLED display, consider a tactile 5-way switch for your input, accessible by the right index finger. Imagine tweaking firing control and other settings from there- and it's more discrete than the rocker switch. You may want to use your voltage divider trick there too, or give in and grab a shift register.
EDIT: More info on interrupts
I have a 1.5" PVC Snap and have one notable updayte- Instead of potentially unreliable E-putty (Mine always crapped out on me), I took a 1.5" endcap and went t town on it with a dremel, creating a PVC catch ramp that fits right where an E-putty ramp would go. It's another option for builders, though a bit more labor intensive.
All i can say is this is amazing i have been watching nerfhaven for a while and i love this i am going to make it only thing wrong with the write-up is for someone who has never built a snap (such as my self)there is not materials list and you never say what size pvc the plunger TUBE is since im going to make this could you pm me or just reply to this with a materials list i found your other snap write ups on nerfhaven but i dont know if the sizes are still the same. Thanks alot and your awesome!
I caught most of your punctuation; it seems to have escaped your post. As with any SNAP the plunger tube is 1.25" PVC. I would suggest you build a basic SNAP before taking this one on.
I have heard that some people use cut down [k26] springs in their raiders. Since the alpha trooper is just a reshelled raider that would probly work.
No. [k26] doesn't fit in any of the Recons (Such a shame...). RFSG springs, however, do.