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There have been 137 items by Lunas (Search limited from 10-January 93)
What i would do is grease it up to see if it helps if it solves the issue great if not i would say that you removed too much dead space you could trim down the hot glue slowly until the issue gets fixed.
Just remember that without the AR dry fires are not recommended they will break parts.
Other options involve much more complicated methods involving making a new control board with an arduino. It would not be overly complicated to control a 3 position servo a variable speed motor and the launch solenoid. It is beyond my skill but it would be possible.
A easier method might be to buy a second one with a remote they are 65-130 on ebay or find someone with the remote willing to let you record the pulses from it you could then program a select few remotes perhaps even a tv be gone diy type unit you would just need to use the 2 codes from the actual remote instead of the on/off db they flash on the diy chips.
On the cheap end i would do a single imr 18650 or 14500 if you want to fit a pair of them in the original battery compartment with some rewiring to put them in parallel or a li-po pack for a rc rated at 4.2v. The imr is good for 25-35 amps depending on the brand i would recommend efest or aw.
I would also look at PWM regulation since the motors are only rated for 2.4v going too much higher than that will burn them quicker the circuit is relatively simple and can be made small enough to fit in the gun or even the battery compartment depending what battery and where you put it.
If you dont want to put that much work into figuring out the power situation. 4 eneloops in the stock bay would power the motors with a slight over-volt would not provide the amps for stall though.
The main thing I am curious about is that the black things connected to the motors are not resistors they are inductors designed to drop voltage and increase current I don't pretend to know everything but would not having them in place help with current draw as the AA it is meant to run on would not provide the current to drive the stock motors well enough on their own.
For Ni-MH energizer claims 4c eneloops say 1c duracell claims 2c.
I used a pair of laptop batteries in mine I had already reclaimed the 6 18650 they held a charge at 4.1v for 3 months before I did anything with them I put them in a pair of protected battery holders
I never go near any batteries with the word fire in the name. I ended up ordering this one. Since its only 3.7V I will try running the motors without limiting the voltage, if hear, smell, see anything wrong then I'll install something to limit it down to a lower point.
If you are handy and know your way around a soldering iron then you could just mod it.
Remove the electrical tape therfore is a number of things you can use:
Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating
plasti dip<- most people use this it is cheap but eventually wears off.
I also wonder if just lightly sanding them with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to get the smooth sheen off the flywheels would be enough.
IF you absolutely need to use AA shaped sized batteries that you can get in a place like wal-mart your stuck using NiMh or lithium primaries.
With rm2 you cant go much above stock 6 volts with proper current or you will fry them unless you c-mod them.
Best:Highest discharge Reasonably safe. Most expensive you will be looking at 10-40$ for the battery and 20-300$ for a charger.
4.2v rc lipo pack look for tenergy or a well made pack
7.2-11.1v rc race pack tenergy is a good brand you need a balance charger
Acceptable: less expensive than rc pack more expensive than nimh 10-15 for a pair of imr and 15-20 for a nitecore d4 charger. Use 1 or 2 in parallel unless you c-mod the rm2 using 2 in series is the most you should try 2 in series is 8.4v fresh off the charger 7.4v is what they will drop to then when dead 6.2v If you continue to run them down you will damage the cells and end up with batteries that wont take a charge.
14500 size lithium batteries li-Mn or Li-Fe-po4 High current they are available up to 20A discharge rates these chemistry are much much safer than Li-ion Li-Fe being the safest of the 2...
14500 Efest IMR Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 AW imr Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 Tenergy Li-Fe-Po4 3.3v
Bad: the cheapest about 10$ gets you 4 batteries and a charger. Nimh deliver about 1-2A in bursts but don't have the capacity to sustain much more than that. Lithium primaries can do 3 A continuous or 5A burst.
AA NiMH batteries 1.2v batteries
Lithium primary energizer or photo cells AA
worst:4-6 dollars a pop for 4 low current discharge
AA duracell rayovac energizer doesn't matter what they add to the end of it they all suck 500mA draw is the best they can muster.
*****Fire Li-ion unprotected cells (your asking for a fire or a face full of lithium hydroxide)
goes by many names: Trustfire and ultrafire are most common these are the typical cell most modders used at first they are good for about 2-5A draw and they are the most volatile they have been known to propel flashlights around the room like a rocket propelled on highly toxic gas that even a little bit can damage your lungs permanently.
Fix those 2 issues you should see about 110 FPS and around 70-90ft ranges. Some sort of voltage monitor would be advised to add to the setup with anything rechargeable draining them past a point will damage them.
The stock motors are rated to 6v and do fine on 7.4v-8.4v i have a pair of IMR running mine the IMR say they can do 20A continuous the stock motors should not have anywhere near that stall current.
Why would you put a 3.7V battery in a gun designed for 6V? I don't think that motor will work. Does this gun need a double shaft like that? I am putting a 7.4V Lipo in mine today. We will see if I fry anything.
If you do like the op is doing with his he is putting a pair of 130 size race motors in his that are rated to 3v so 3.7v battery pack or even a pair of IMR in parallel would do. Putting double the voltage on those race motors would likely burn them out very quickly.
I want to do a brushless motor mod and i have an idea for cheap durable brushless motors. Computer fans they are 7-12v brushless ball bearing sleeve and several others are available and spin 600-4800 rpm all i would need to do is free them from the frame and cut off the fins and smooth out the hub would take 20 min with a belt sander or dremel. If i end up doing it ill post a write up on it my main concern is there is not an easy way of reversing the rotation on pc fans so i would have to mount them with one flipped over.
Pc fans are true brushless but they dont have to have 3 wires. They use hall effect sensors to determine direction rather than comutators. Generally it is positive (red) ground (black) and rpm sensing (yellow) Now 4 wire pwm setups are getting more common the 3 wires remain the same. Though red 12v input black ground and yellow blue or green rpm sensing the 4th is used to adjust speed. Previous to this they were slowed by a pot dropping the voltage to the stall level around 5v-7v. An 80mm or 92mm or 120mm fan would have a similar sized hub to a flywheel dropping the other wires and keeping the red and black tossing them into a blaster would require modification of the flywheel cage cutting out the 130 size sleeve since without modding the speed controller you cant reverse the direction and to get access to the controller you must remove the hub.
do those brushless fan motors have 2-wires or 3-wires, if they have three then there true brushless motors and requires a brushless specific speed controller
I have been thinking about how to do it and i am almost positive ill be making my own nerf gun when i get around to making the one based off pc fans i will need to see how slow they speed up and how the motor behaves without the fins on it though. It has been brought up to me that the torque and spin up time might not be good.
It is a known fact that "fire" batteries can vary from 500mA up to 4A discharge current and most fall in the 2-3A range unless they are cheap low quality cells. The stock motors are made to do with 500mA at best with 4 AA batteries. By giving them a proper power source they can scream to their hearts content. IMR or LI-MN cells discharge 10A-35A burst and should be the only drop in choice anyone considers. Lipo packs like most suggest are expensive but they are far better than any others you can pickup ones that can do 50-100A burst discharge.
It's not opinion. Battery ratings aren't user based. Google 'Trustfire explosion,' or similar.
Also trust fire and ultra fire are very commonly counterfeited look up counterfeit ultrafire dissection. There are 3 ways they are faked the worst is when they put a 30 mAh foil pack inside an 18650 can and fill the rest with sand or flour or plaster dust so the weight is close enough. There are just cheap cells not made very well these are the fire balls waiting to happen. Then there are 900mA cells labeled 3800mAh.
I would pull cells from laptop batteries before i bought a fire brand. For 14500 cells aw or efest imr are better than any fire and they can do decent amps.
no they have a discharge of 3-5A but it is a cheaper reliable source of quality cells vs spinning the wheel on a *fire brand battery if you're after 18650 size. 14500 you need to spin the wheel and you should not run any cell other than imr or li-fe. Normal unprotected Li-ion are asking for bad things.
Lithium batteries from a laptop are not high discharge, though. Just FYI.
Normal NiMH can only push at best 1500mA Normal AA can only do .5A or 500mA. If you use a microswitch rated to .5A only .5A can pass through it without generating heat over that can go through it but it will heat and can fail. Example of what can happen you have a stryfe you have blades in it low resistance wire and use a 25-50c battery pack then you use the switch that came with the stryfe the motors will attempt to draw up to 10A when a jam or dart hits the flywheels the only thing your gun has that cant handle that type of load is the switch. When the motors start pulling the amperage the switch passes it as best it can as it exceeds the switch it gets hotter and hotter until thermal failure occurs something burns or melts.
Also, If i use a microswitch rated for .5 amps, will some nimH cells or a 2 amp lipo burn it out when i get some crazy stall motors?
and i dont get why lighter flywheels can be dangerous
Stock motors with better wires and cleaned up circuits will have little issue with the stock switches and amperage under 3A if you upgrade the brushes/motor and raise the voltage a better switch might be in order.
This is why i feel unless your going for the full rebuild you dont need a lipo pack if your doing wires, motors and a lipo pack why keep the old switches might as well change them too.
If that is the one thing you remove from the internals i highly suggest it. It is just a mechanical lock that gets in the way more than it helps honestly i would pull all the mechanical locks and trim the top of the rev trigger so the dart trigger does not hit it rather than trimming the dart trigger like most guides suggest.
Yes, you are correct.
Also what are the run times like for that battery pack?
My next mod is going to be the addition of a volt meter inside my stryfe when i do ill get pictures of my rewire with solid core 18 gauge it was interesting to work with. I may or may not swap the stock rev switch to a 10A switch. and i may or may not use the jam door switch to turn off and on the volt meter i also thought about placing the volt meter where you have your battery so when i check the voltage i flip it up get the reading close it turns off the meter. I tested it and when placed against the plastic you can read the numbers through the plastic so it can be super stealth.
Good tips, thank you. I like these ideas.
I have not formally monitored the battery life. However, I have fired about 200 darts through my Stryfe with the Turnigy Lipo and it's dropped from 4.16v/cell to 3.96v/cell, which linearly extrapolates to 860 darts before the Turnigy Lipo needs to be swapped out (low voltage alarm is set to go off at 3.3v/cell.
Start/End Voltage: 4.16/3.96 = 0.2v used
Darts Fired: 200
4.16v-3.3v = .86v/.001 = 860 dart battery life (SD +/-80)
Dang, I like the idea of a digital voltage meter. I could probably trim out a window on starboard side and rig my digital voltage meter/alarm for viewing. I like your top side idea better though, more functional.
Those are the ones i got. Like i said no cutting needed the plastic of the nerf gun lets enough light through that you can just glue it to the inside and it shows through. In the stryfe on either side of the magazine area the meter is thin enough that it doesn't interfere. I'm also thinking near the back on the left half of the shell it should not interfere with the trigger but ill have to decide when i get around to putting it in where exactly it will end up.
The shots per charge was not calculated in a very accurate way it doesn't take into account that as the battery drops it drops quicker the lower it gets. Also the 35C constant 75C burst is 300mA * 35 and 300*75 for 10.5 amp constant and 22.5 amp burst this kinda puts it down to imr range.
I call bullshit on those shots-per-charge calculations. 300mAh is a tiny battery. Stock motors have winding impedances of something like 12-15 ohms, right? Even if we give them a relatively conservative number like 20 ohms, they'll still be pulling about 300-350mA at 7.4V. That gives them less than an hour of operation under ideal conditions. So I don't buy it.
For those that did not know C rating is a measure of how much current can be discharged it represents the capacity of the battery array * rating C = amps possible. So if you have a battery that is 300mA with 25c constant it can deliver 10.5 amps constantly.
I think unless your running non stock motors that pull 20 or more amps you dont really need to run these lipo packs you can do IMR. Are they ideal? No, but the good chargers for them can do other chemistry too. I use a nitecore d4 to charge mine it does NiMH, Li-ion, Li-Mn, Li-Fepo4 and Nicd and it has a 12v input so i could use my car accessory plug to charge them.
my stryfe is running on a pair of these they are ~14c
efest v2 IMR 14500 3.7v High Discharge
Maximum Continuous Discharge Rate: 9.75A
Maximum Continuous Charging Rate: 1.3A
Rated Capacity: 700mAh
You will need to buy a charger that supports li ion 9v they are around 25-50 as well and from the reviews they don't last very long
That's not hard to do with lipo either but the reason people can go to 18v on 9v batteries is the low current they can provide. The li-ion ones you found should be better than 9v alkaline or 9v NiMH pp3 packages but still not as good as IMR batteries. You will burn a motor on a lipo @ 18v vs running 2 9v in series. You will probably find running at 7.4 or 11.1v will out perform 18v with 9v. This gun has stryfe motors and they will burn over 14v on a lipo they hit good ranges with a 7.4-11.1v most people find stryfes hitting 100+fps on 7.4 lipos and above 12 they melt darts...
Alright. I kind of wanted to use the li-ion because i was going to have a setup where when you have the gun normal, 9v. when you attach the overvolt stock (a demolisher stock with another 9v), it makes it 18v.
the demolisher is more or less a stryfe with a built in missile launcher i have seen mod videos on it and the seal in the missile launcher sucks i also wonder that if one were to remove the grate on the launcher tube if a elite dart would fit down it to give a single shot air launch.
I was going to put in some mabuchi fk180sh's in the gun then overvolt it but now I am wondering not sure. Would this outperform a solarbotics stryfe if it were in a demolisher? : http://www.banggood....kXdZhoC_pvw_wcB
With the 180s you will need to cut holes in the shell to allow the back sides of the motors to stick out. If you don't want to do this you could get some 130 can race motors the hyper dash 2 but you would be going to 4.2v for them or you could get a pair of brushless motors and a controller you will need to put an on off switch in then.
Honestly the stock stryfe motors do good with a proper power source they could be better they could be alot worse...
I would not there is a rather steep curve upward on noise from these motors. I would run on 2 or 3 but personally i run 2 and keep 2 charged for when the first 2 are exhausted.
I have recently bought IMR Batteries and have only put about 30 rounds through my Stryfe before the Thermistor shut down my blaster. I will rewire my Stryfe over the weekend, but I was wondering: Is it safe to run a Stryfe on four IMRs for long term usage? I'm using the stock motors. Thanks!
If you need a battery blank i made my own using a sheet of paper and a solid core wire down the center with a coil on either end. I simply rolled a piece of paper around a wire until it was as thick as a AA then put glue on either end then stripped the wire ends and coiled them to form terminals... i have 2 one that is 2 AA end to end long one that is a single AA long removes and sits just as a battery would.
Actually in my research I found the current lithium primary could provide was vastly inferior. While better than both alkaline and NiMH a lithium primary is still worse than a li-ion 14500 cell. Energizer's data sheet claims 3A continuous with 5A pulse 2 seconds at 5A 8 seconds off. A quality cell not *fire brand should do at least 3A continuous with 6th bursts and be rechargeable.
I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.
However the capacity of a lithium primary is greater than a li-ion (trustfire) but lithium primary are a one and done situation. And at 10 dollars per 4 pack you might as well invest in a lipo pack or imr rechargeables. (Capacity of energizer lithium tests out at 2480 mAh @ 3A)
Li-ion- generally quality cells can do 3A- 5A continuous
Li-mn/imr do about 10A continuous.
Lipo packs do 10 - 100A continuous dependant on features of the pack c rating * capacity =amperage
Just be sure to not get the soft package ones and treat them with respect... Sure they are safer but if they get punctured or you exceed the current draw they can violently vent or puff... Nothing good ever spits out of a battery when they vent... I have also read about someone who charged their *fire battery properly they put it in a drawer for use later nothing shorting it or anything he came into his shop after hearing a pop and it was the battery having vented...
Whoa. I just watched a video of a trustfire explosion and it was insane! Apparently those things can explode even when not in use and are just being stored! I am never buying those things in my life. I am going to have to stick to lipo's forever.
Li-ion quality cellsLi-ion
Cheap Chinese Li-ion *FIRE brandsBoom and Fake
In mods with STOCK wiring and motors a good set of IMR or LiMn batteries is fine the stock motors wont draw over 10A.
In mods with Alternate high voltage motors LiPo, LiFe or NiMH packs. You can use these with stock motors but thermal fuses must in most cases be removed.
In mods with alternate low voltage motors A 1s LiPo LiFe or NiMH or AA NiMH are the choice you need to keep in mind most of these motors are 3v they can be over volted a bit to 4.5 or maybe 6v at most...
also any battery that gets abused can explode including alkaline...
the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.
Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.
the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.
A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.
Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...
Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can
the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.
Stock motors run fine on IMR cells but these are expensive
Nitecore i2 charger
Nitecore d2 charger with car adaptor and battery storage box
Nitecore i4 4 slot charger
d4 4 slot (i have this)
these should fit in a rapidstrike tray in place of the c-cells with the center divider gone
18650 30A discharge
10A imr efest 18650
14500 10A efest
for lipo hobby king has excellent prices and sells through amazon...
They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.
I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.
also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.
With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo
Did you improve the seal on the demolisher missile plunger? Also i have been meaning to ask this of a demoilisher owner is the center tube of the missile if you cut off the grate on the front would a elite fit snug down that to the point you could use it as a single direct fire spot for if you did not have a missile to reload? IF yes have you done so and how well do they fire from it?
No I didn't make any cuts to the demolisher. I made a strayven b4 and the cuts r pretty similar. I was originally gunna make a rayven rapidstrike rough cut and jolt integration but none if the places I went to had rapidstrikes so we just got demolishers. My friend also made a centurion demolisher. PM me if u need any help I guess
look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.
I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.
On the one i saw he wrapped the plunger head in teflon tape 4 times and then put the o-ring on and greased it. For the missile barrel i would not alter the darts but instead glue a insert of nested brass or cpvc into the abs tube to make it fit the dart better as long as you don't increase the size outward the missile should fire still.
i didnt do anything to the seal yet how do u think i should do it? Ya i removed that grate thingy and a dart fits in it but the dart is kinda too skinny so if u fire it with the dart inside, the air goes like around the dart so it doesnt even go all the way out. I then tried to make the dart fatter by wrapping it with duct tape so then it fit perfectly in the center tube but when i fired it, it went like 10' and the accuracy is like whale shit. the missiles are better and i dont recommend using the darts.
and tiff, i added u
The straws i used were 1$ from walmart for like 50-100 one straw does 3 darts...
I think I should have been more clear. I know the why and how of the situation, and I'm trying to filter out the answers that involve using stefans or straws.
The answer I was hoping for was to know what kind of glue I can use. An ideal answer would be some sort of cheap and light elastic glue that is malleable upon application, and dries to form a seal without being brittle. And is also lightweight. Can anyone think of such a material?
i told you the glue i used it is light and rubbery but does not stay adhered to the foam super well it feels like the stuff they used to put the tips on in the first place it would work. That said you need to take a preventative approach rather than repair after the fact. Nothing you can do will be as good as a fresh dart.
What i would probably do is pull all of the blown out darts and use foam backer rod to make new foam ends using the genuine tips. there is instructions for making the peg holes too. Or the one you pictured you could cut and glue the tip to the half that is left.
Actually it goes really fast once you get it down. Also you can make homemade darts with dart peg holes. And you suggest they put looser barrels on blasters when it sounded like they dont use modded blasters. If they used modded blasters they could remove the dart pegs.
I think rubber cement would be your best bet. I've used it to reattach heads with some success. Not particularly lightweight, but it's flexible and adheres to the foam to some degree.
As far as prevention, looser barrels will help stop powerful blasters from destroying darts. Depending on a billion other variables, this may reduce your muzzle velocity, but elite streamlines don't fly straight at high speeds anyways so your effective range won't be hurt too much. I don't recommend shoving straws in all of your darts because it takes time that I wouldn't want to spend on darts that I already paid 25c for. And I don't recommend homemade darts because I read the first post.
yes it is somewhat common Self sticking craft foam is typical it does help plunger life and makes it a bit quieter... If you filled the plunger head with hot glue first some dead space would be removed too.
I have recently modified some of my blasters, the mods include AR and lock removal and I was wondering if it is a good idea to put felt pads on the plunger head in order to make the blaster a bit quieter and safer to dry fire. if any one has any info on this topic what so ever please reply. thank you.
Well there are two locks involved one in-front of the trigger next to the mag lock and one on the bolt sled itself i removed both from mine and i have no issues you can tell if you are primed by the feel of the trigger too it will feel heavier than non primed with no locks...
alright thanks for that.
the plunger tube may be in upside down that is really the only way the lock on the bolt sled can malfunction
Most 25c 2s 7.4v will provide ~10-30A the best a 9v can do is .2A those motors suck down around 3-10A stall and use 1-3A at speed this means a 9v will not last for more than a few shots and those shots are going to suck. The only option that works without too much modification is imr 14500 li-mn batteries rayven holds 3 AA stock 2 and a dummy battery will make it scream and you wont need motors or afterburner my stryfe fires about 100 ft stock motors with 2 of these ditch the idea of using 9v batteries they have no use in nerf unless they are powering a flashlight.
I, too, have been doing a lot of research on flywheel blasters, motors, and batteries. Though I haven't gotten to actually try them out for myself (saving for a house takes a good bit out of the hobby budget), I suggest the motors talked about here in place of the stock motors. No afterburners required, but you will need to cut some holes in the shell because the motors are a bit longer than the stock ones.
Run them using a 2S (7.4V) LiPo, with something like a 25C rating. I think that they will also handle a 3S LiPo (11.1V I believe) if you really wanted, so running them via 9Volt shouldn't burn them up.
On the other hand, because you'll be getting less current out of the 9Volt battery, you'll probably have problems with spinup time and rapid-fire (in other words, your range will decrease and/or your gun will jam if you try to fire too quickly).
I suggest reading that blog for more info. You'll want to rewire the blaster with larger gauge wire and use a better acceleration switch (all of which will let the LiPo get more current to the motors).
yes but not as well as a lipo pack the 180s tend to pull a bit more stall amps than IMR provide the stock motors are not so bad with 2 IMR i tossed 2 IMR 18650 in my battery tray the gun is a whole new beast and the balance it toward the center rather than forward. Mind you mine is stock.
So would those motors work with IMRs or trust fires?
There are a lot of threads on motors it uses the same motors as the stryfe ANY 130 size will fit in the stock spot the pusher motor can be replaced with out modding the shell with a 180 you need to mod the pusher tray. Honestly i want to put a brushless set in mine Mainly due to liking the start up sound some make just think you are getting ready and it is time to start so you flip the master on deet deet doo deet then those motor sounds...
With flywheels brassing is nearly pointless mostly a cosmetic thing the make or break for flywheels is the power supply, motors and flywheels. The rayven has some great wheels to mod look up lightening them and it will show you how to cut material from them to make them lighter and spin up better. For grip plasti dip or i have been toying with the idea of lightly sanding my flywheels to give them a rougher surface thus adding grip. The motors higher rpm means faster flywheels for faster darts too fast flywheels melt off the shafts or just melt the darts. If this is happening turn down the rpms/voltage or add grip to flywheels some how either by using stiffer foam for less collapse i like the straw method to make my darts stiffer. Or by coating the flywheels in something or even small holes but i wanted to avoid that as it tears up darts a bit faster or comes off overtime. It should be mentioned coating the flywheels in plasti dip will slightly increase mass outward. And nerf xd version blasters with flywheels have a cage with the wheels closer together for more crush and grip.
To clear up confusion, Yes I am intending to brass the Rayven, and I probably will not brass the interior of the barrel extension, as it will just be there to under-mount my other project, an inline shotgunned triad with a larger piston for more range. My question was actually whether there was a grease or lubricant I can use to reduce friction in the barrel, so as to not slow down the dart as much? I'm not going for something that can be used to eat shit from 1000 feet away, but I like to hedge my bets on the powerful side so I can have to tune it down, instead of put more money into it to up tune it a second time. For the batteries, does 2s versus 3s make a difference? I know(I think) that the more mAH a batter has, the longer it will last, but what difference do the amount of cells make, if any? we are ordering motors and batteries in a couple of days, so I am trying to get all of my stuff ironed out so that my dad and I can bundle it all in one order. Also, thank you for being so amazingly prompt to answer my questions, though I haven't been as prompt as I wish I could be in answering yours. Thank you again!
2s vs 3s is 7.2-8.4v vs 11.1-14.4v extra cell is more voltage need to be careful about what the motors can handle. You will want to start with 2s on the stock motors any more than that shortens the life.
It is very tricky as you hit about 110 fps the darts become the limiting factor more so than the gun firing them and you can make flywheel blasters hit that mark by simply replacing the power supply. A 2s lipo at 7.4 is enough to get you up there and you can make other improvements to get a few more fps or feet by pushing the rpm up more and more coat the flywheels and lighten them and bump the voltage up more then the motors give out replace them with motors that can run even faster at higher voltage. And the gains are just hampered by darts that fly off mark so consistently you end up with 30 to 50ft of useful accuracy where a slower flywheel can do up to 100ft with acceptable accuracy.
So my advise is baby steps your just now getting into tuning the flywheel blasters put the rc connector in and rewire it with good wires 16 Gauge Silicone Wire the rayven can be turned into a really simple circuit just the battery and the momentary switch btw the one in the stock blaster is only rated to about .5A you can pass more but it will eventually burn replacing the switch is advised pick out a momentary that can handle more 15A seem sufficient. While your in there you can toss some connectors to disconnect the motors and replace them later when you burn out the stock motors.
not all 3d printers use abs
Is that possible yet to grind your own plastic up and extrude filament for a 3D printer? If so the idea of getting a 3D printer might be moving up on my list.
making filament is not too difficult you just need to heat the material evenly and precisely until it gets to a uniform consistency then it gets pushed through a die