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#344094 180 Setup Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 11:07 AM in Modifications

The main question is, are 2 14500 efests enough?

the 14500 are only available in 700mAh and only about 9.85A max draw per cell fine for stock not 180s

by jumping up to 18650 you can get 2400mAh @ 30A per cell 180s can do fine a 2s li-po is cheaper sort

jump up to 26650 you can get 3500mAh @ 64A purple efest per cell or 4200mAh @ 50A green efest

mAh = run time

figure adverage of 5 amps while spinning then 10-20A on start up for a split second

#344092 Absolved Demolisher

Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 10:54 AM in Modifications

I've got no idea how far the single goes. The quad shells are much more useful.

And I only lubed up the launcher piston. Nothing else.

i saw a mod where they teflon wrapped the piston 4 times and put a thicker o ring in his demo and got his missiles to go 45 ft his he also showed all of the compression was in the last inch of the launcher.

#344074 Absolved Demolisher

Posted by Lunas on 08 January 2015 - 08:56 PM in Modifications

Videos I can not make. With a quad shot it is easy to get 30 feet of distance...with about as much spread as a standard width door.

The spread is going to be pretty dependent on how you make your shells. Where you point the barrels determines where they go. I made all mine as straight as possible.

EDIT: I am also bumping as I have added a list of all the mods I've done to this baby.

how far does the single go and did you do anything to the launcher piston

#344071 180 Setup Question

Posted by Lunas on 08 January 2015 - 08:32 PM in Modifications

people do 14500 in stryfe due to the clean look and in the case of rapid strikes they stick them in AA to C adapters and get drop in upgradability you are into heavy mod territory you might as well go full bore.

the rapid strike has alot more options especially if you don't shorten it.

The only mod i have done to my rapid strike is in the battery tray i put a 18650 2p1s battery tray in and soldered it to the contacts.

you could potentially go up to 26650 IMR in the stock tray and as long as you dont run more than 2 the stock pusher will only go slightly faster than 4 c cells.

*fire anything sucks and is likely a clone. i like my efest "IMR" 18650. there are 3 types of 18650 out there lifepo4 3.2 volt these are rare and expensive but take abuse readily and keep going. the normal trustfire li-ion cells these are not what your looking for same thing in laptop packs but the laptop packs might be better quality slight fire hazard... then what you want IMR Li-MN these are high discharge slightly less capacity than the li-ion might melt the gun a bit when they fail but not fire.

18650 would have about 2400mAh of capacity 14500 have 700mAh this means longer run time a 26650 would have about 3800mAh for double the run time of a pair of 18650.

#343959 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 05 January 2015 - 10:07 PM in Modifications

has anyone tried something like these http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B0057QCGRM
and if so are they the same thing as like trustfires?

no they are better but not high discharge like you need those are 1C so 400 mA.

these would be better http://www.amazon.co...rds=efest 14500 and do close to 10A discharge if you can jump 1 more size up to 18650 purple efests can do 30A

#343920 Stryfe battery

Posted by Lunas on 04 January 2015 - 10:02 PM in Modifications

What store might have NIMH packs?

I think this same battery is available in radioshack.

(sorry about the quote backspaced too far.

i doubt that pack has more than a 5A discharge. The wires are so thin...


#343918 Strongarm Malfunction

Posted by Lunas on 04 January 2015 - 09:49 PM in General Nerf


I found out that its never the same barrel that doesnt shoot as far. Sometimes the gun fired 6/6 nicely, other times its a 5/6, and other times its a low 3/6 or 2/6. Any way i can avoid this?

sounds like dart wear you might want to check the foam pad on the plunger if it is damaged or worn that is the seal that hits the cylinder and makes the seal to fire the dart. that spring might be weak or broken.

#343874 Usable Dimensions for Rapidstrike tray

Posted by Lunas on 03 January 2015 - 07:49 PM in Off Topic

I used my calipers a while back to measure mine it is about 28mm deep 117mm long and 54mm wide you should be able to fit 2 26650 batteries side by side if you cut out the center support and the 2 end supports you will have about 1cm at each end of the battery you would need to adjust for...

Ill redo my measurements later tonight and repost but those are the numbers i remember from when i measured mine. you do get a bit more room by dropping the tray and just using the front. But I like to keep my nerf guns semi stock and would like to if i have to drop back to stock.

#343796 Trustfire IMR Batteries?!?!

Posted by Lunas on 31 December 2014 - 06:55 PM in Modifications

EBay trust fires... do we need to go over the biggest source for counterfeit cells again. They are not even cheaper than the red efest on amazon.

Buy the purple efest and mod for 18650 size or the 14500 red v2 they do about 10A the purple do 30A-60A though finding them in 14500 has been not fun. Also the eBay auction listed those at aaa size or 10440. Either the lister has a typo or he knows nothing about batteries.

#343748 chronographing for a nerf war

Posted by Lunas on 28 December 2014 - 08:04 PM in Off Topic

like he said ^ MANDATE eye ware at my last event i did not bring my eye wear and got hit in my eye with a stock retaliator it hurt like hell even though it was stock.

I would place certified stock or under 110 fps with stock darts only as my rules 80-110 fps will still shoot over 100ft

#343505 [Guide] Rapidstrike with 18650s in stock battery tray

Posted by Lunas on 14 December 2014 - 06:27 PM in Modifications

Been meaning to find the time to post my tray


I am going to eventually open my RS and when i do I may add another method of transferring power from tray to gun im thinking of mounting a xt60 connector to the occupied side of the gun so i could open it without cutting the negative terminal again... If i ever do make this modification ill make my own thread on how i did it.

#343470 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 12 December 2014 - 12:48 PM in Modifications

It is not even dummy cells since you need 2 you need a spacer at one end just under an inch thick with a thick wire connecting the 2 cells

That said a 18650 is more easily available and useful in more ways I have 12 18650 I got from laptop batteries 4 from flashlights and 2 imr for my rs

This. "Traditional" lithium batteries, i.e. not IMR, have been used for a long time in all sorts of electronics with varying levels of protections, failures are pretty rare.
As long as you stick with something that is purpose made for the task, and is of high quality, you'll be fine.

Quality RC packs for example, are built for high discharge applications and the cells within the pack were properly matched. Those wont give you issues.

Trustfire and similar Lithium cells are bad and labeled as dangerous by some since they're not meant for high discharge at all. So when you demand a lot from those batteries, they get hot quick and thats when things can get dangerous.

^_^ its all good.

Yep nothing wrong with lithium cells as long as you don't abuse them. Non IMR typically only have issues with the following; multiple cells not equally charged in series, cells that have been fully killed then recharged, cells that are overcharged, cells with physical damage, or shorting the neg to positive terminals. With a quality charger like the nitecore i2/4 d2/4 or imax b6. It would be fine to use them.

But that said nerf is a sport jarring and dropping blasters are common.

#343455 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 11 December 2014 - 06:55 PM in Modifications

Err to be clear though, I wouldn't consider IMRs to be a drop-in for the RS unless you want to use the low capacity 14500 cells with AA to C spacer/converters.

The 18650 and 26650 cells are both longer than the standard C cell alkaline battery. So you would need to do at least a tiny bit of modification to get them to fit.

They are longer than a single c by about 1 inch not enough to take the place of 2 c inline.

I bought a 18650 2s1p protected battery tray and used 2 sided tape to stick it in the battery tray i used a rotary tool to remove the center divider and drilled out a hole to enlarge the area where the contacts sit and i soldered the wires directly to the contacts

Thinking back to how i modded it one could probably solder 16 awg to the plate and run it through the holes into the tray. Or you could sit both halfs of an xt60 connector on the one side of the shell with one in the battery tray would preserve the function of the tray while allowing the use of 30-60A IMR 26650 (MORE THAN ENOUGH AMPS).

#343378 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 08 December 2014 - 04:19 PM in Modifications

Everyone bashes against trustfire/ultrafire batteries. What's the problem? They make a normal flywheel blaster shoot substantially harder, with little/no modification to the circuit, motors, or shell.

The issues occur due to multi cell use with the uneven discharge this causes hot cells that can vent fire hot hydrofluric acid possibly into your face. Li-mn and li-fe just get hot then stop working. Lipo batteries can on a whim swell to 3 times the correct size and vent hydrogen typically on fire so you have a torch burning hot enough to melt steel followed by a lithium fire you can't just put out with water or most fire extinguishers.

But that's fine if you want to melt your face off you may.

then there is the fake fires sold on amazon and eBay which can be old cells forced to take a charge literally ticking time bombs can go off left in a drawer with nothing to short it. or small 30mAh cells stuffed into the can with flour or plaster to make the weight right. So it charges shows voltage but only has 30mAh instead of 3000mAh.

you will see lots of issues showing up in relation to vaping but realize vaping is shorting high resistance wire to produce heat so intentional shorting of a dangerous cell... If they used control boards to prevent a short on the battery they would not have mods becoming rocket propelled cylinders.

#343368 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 08 December 2014 - 12:54 AM in Modifications

Question, how much of a performance difference do you notice with 18650s while keeping everything else stock?

I've been conflicted as to how I want to modify my own RS.

RC Pack + Charger = $40 after shipping from Hobbyking
2x18650 = $15-ish + another $15-25 for a charger (like a Nitecore D2/D4)
2x26650 = $22 for battery + charger ^

It seems like with stock wiring/internals, the RC pack wouldn't provide and extra performance over the IMR solutions. But for a slightly higher "price of entry", the RC pack route has more leftover potential for future upgrades.

night and day vs c batteries the darts fly 50-80Ft i can empty the full clip in about 3-4 seconds and it spins up rather quick.

I bought a nitecore d4 and my batteries. I really like the d4. And i have flashlights and usb chargers that use 18650 cells.

#343363 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 07 December 2014 - 10:59 PM in Modifications

I've been researching a bit about batteries for the RS this past weekend since I just ordered a new RS from Target.

Anyway, from the information I've found, Trustfire or other Li-Ion 14500, 18650, 26650 cells are not good for our blasters because they dont have enough current output capability.

IMRs are better as they do provide enough current, as Lunas suggested. It seems like Efest Purple cells are the most popular. Efest 26650 IMR cells would fit in the stock battery tray since the cells are the same diameter as C-size Alkalines, but they're 15mm longer. From my personal searching, I though the GREEN Efest 26650 IMRs would be best since they provide less current than the Purples but have more capacity and the current is still enough for Nerf uses.

However, I've also had a few people convince me to go with the RC battery pack route and directly wire the battery rather than use the stock or any battery holder as those have inherently high resistance.

I had a lot of advice from others on the Nerf sub-reddit: http://www.reddit.co...in_rapidstrike/

I have a Rapidstrike i upgraded the battery tray with a pair of 18650s in series for 8.4-7.4v the stock wiring is fine for the stock motors and stock contacts if you motor swap you will want to run wires to the end of the springs or to another method of connecting the tray or direct wire to a pack the stock springs and contacts should be good up to about 10A if you are running motors that can pull more than that perhaps epoxying a connector to the inside and then to the battery tray would be a good idea.

#343353 Battery safety

Posted by Lunas on 07 December 2014 - 05:38 PM in Modifications

Hello I recently did full motor replacement and rewire on a rapidstrike. I was looking at IMR and Trustfire batteries, but have seen some videos and vape forms on batteries exploding and failing. Has anyone on here had any batteries fail?

i have seen videos on li-ion trust/sure/ultra fires 18650 laptop cells venting i have also seen videos of li-po turnigy packs venting after swelling like a balloon and i have personally seen a samsung phone battery swell up 3 times the size it is supposed to be.

I have never found an IMR video on them venting only them getting purposely shorted getting to almost 200F fusing the wire then dropping to 0v

Efest makes a 26650 IMR cell with high discharge up to 30A that would fit in the stock rapidstrike tray with a little modding.

#343324 What to do with empty nerf blaster shells?

Posted by Lunas on 05 December 2014 - 06:41 PM in General Nerf

Is that possible yet to grind your own plastic up and extrude filament for a 3D printer? If so the idea of getting a 3D printer might be moving up on my list.


not all 3d printers use abs

making filament is not too difficult you just need to heat the material evenly and precisely until it gets to a uniform consistency then it gets pushed through a die

#343184 Battery and motor help

Posted by Lunas on 29 November 2014 - 03:16 AM in Modifications

To clear up confusion, Yes I am intending to brass the Rayven, and I probably will not brass the interior of the barrel extension, as it will just be there to under-mount my other project, an inline shotgunned triad with a larger piston for more range. My question was actually whether there was a grease or lubricant I can use to reduce friction in the barrel, so as to not slow down the dart as much? I'm not going for something that can be used to eat shit from 1000 feet away, but I like to hedge my bets on the powerful side so I can have to tune it down, instead of put more money into it to up tune it a second time. For the batteries, does 2s versus 3s make a difference? I know(I think) that the more mAH a batter has, the longer it will last, but what difference do the amount of cells make, if any? we are ordering motors and batteries in a couple of days, so I am trying to get all of my stuff ironed out so that my dad and I can bundle it all in one order. Also, thank you for being so amazingly prompt to answer my questions, though I haven't been as prompt as I wish I could be in answering yours. Thank you again!

With flywheels brassing is nearly pointless mostly a cosmetic thing the make or break for flywheels is the power supply, motors and flywheels. The rayven has some great wheels to mod look up lightening them and it will show you how to cut material from them to make them lighter and spin up better. For grip plasti dip or i have been toying with the idea of lightly sanding my flywheels to give them a rougher surface thus adding grip. The motors higher rpm means faster flywheels for faster darts too fast flywheels melt off the shafts or just melt the darts. If this is happening turn down the rpms/voltage or add grip to flywheels some how either by using stiffer foam for less collapse i like the straw method to make my darts stiffer. Or by coating the flywheels in something or even small holes but i wanted to avoid that as it tears up darts a bit faster or comes off overtime. It should be mentioned coating the flywheels in plasti dip will slightly increase mass outward. And nerf xd version blasters with flywheels have a cage with the wheels closer together for more crush and grip.

2s vs 3s is 7.2-8.4v vs 11.1-14.4v extra cell is more voltage need to be careful about what the motors can handle. You will want to start with 2s on the stock motors any more than that shortens the life.

It is very tricky as you hit about 110 fps the darts become the limiting factor more so than the gun firing them and you can make flywheel blasters hit that mark by simply replacing the power supply. A 2s lipo at 7.4 is enough to get you up there and you can make other improvements to get a few more fps or feet by pushing the rpm up more and more coat the flywheels and lighten them and bump the voltage up more then the motors give out replace them with motors that can run even faster at higher voltage. And the gains are just hampered by darts that fly off mark so consistently you end up with 30 to 50ft of useful accuracy where a slower flywheel can do up to 100ft with acceptable accuracy.

So my advise is baby steps your just now getting into tuning the flywheel blasters put the rc connector in and rewire it with good wires 16 Gauge Silicone Wire the rayven can be turned into a really simple circuit just the battery and the momentary switch btw the one in the stock blaster is only rated to about .5A you can pass more but it will eventually burn replacing the switch is advised pick out a momentary that can handle more 15A seem sufficient. While your in there you can toss some connectors to disconnect the motors and replace them later when you burn out the stock motors.

#343145 Rapidstrike motors and rough cut gears

Posted by Lunas on 27 November 2014 - 01:45 AM in Off Topic

So would those motors work with IMRs or trust fires?

yes but not as well as a lipo pack the 180s tend to pull a bit more stall amps than IMR provide the stock motors are not so bad with 2 IMR i tossed 2 IMR 18650 in my battery tray the gun is a whole new beast and the balance it toward the center rather than forward. Mind you mine is stock.

There are a lot of threads on motors it uses the same motors as the stryfe ANY 130 size will fit in the stock spot the pusher motor can be replaced with out modding the shell with a 180 you need to mod the pusher tray. Honestly i want to put a brushless set in mine Mainly due to liking the start up sound some make just think you are getting ready and it is time to start so you flip the master on deet deet doo deet then those motor sounds...

#343106 Battery and motor help

Posted by Lunas on 25 November 2014 - 11:10 PM in Modifications

you can run the stock motors on the IMR 14500 or 2s lipo the IMR has the benefit of looking fully stock you can use 2 or 3 but 2 is a decent improvement over AA and does not make the darts hit so hard that they feel too non stock but it does make them fly further and hit about as hard as the best shot stock.

#343048 Battery and motor help

Posted by Lunas on 24 November 2014 - 08:05 PM in Modifications

I, too, have been doing a lot of research on flywheel blasters, motors, and batteries. Though I haven't gotten to actually try them out for myself (saving for a house takes a good bit out of the hobby budget), I suggest the motors talked about here in place of the stock motors. No afterburners required, but you will need to cut some holes in the shell because the motors are a bit longer than the stock ones.

Run them using a 2S (7.4V) LiPo, with something like a 25C rating. I think that they will also handle a 3S LiPo (11.1V I believe) if you really wanted, so running them via 9Volt shouldn't burn them up.

On the other hand, because you'll be getting less current out of the 9Volt battery, you'll probably have problems with spinup time and rapid-fire (in other words, your range will decrease and/or your gun will jam if you try to fire too quickly).

I suggest reading that blog for more info. You'll want to rewire the blaster with larger gauge wire and use a better acceleration switch (all of which will let the LiPo get more current to the motors).

Most 25c 2s 7.4v will provide ~10-30A the best a 9v can do is .2A those motors suck down around 3-10A stall and use 1-3A at speed this means a 9v will not last for more than a few shots and those shots are going to suck. The only option that works without too much modification is imr 14500 li-mn batteries rayven holds 3 AA stock 2 and a dummy battery will make it scream and you wont need motors or afterburner my stryfe fires about 100 ft stock motors with 2 of these ditch the idea of using 9v batteries they have no use in nerf unless they are powering a flashlight.

#343030 retaliator problems

Posted by Lunas on 23 November 2014 - 07:37 PM in Modifications

alright thanks for that.

Well there are two locks involved one in-front of the trigger next to the mag lock and one on the bolt sled itself i removed both from mine and i have no issues you can tell if you are primed by the feel of the trigger too it will feel heavier than non primed with no locks...

the plunger tube may be in upside down that is really the only way the lock on the bolt sled can malfunction

#342901 moding help

Posted by Lunas on 18 November 2014 - 09:57 PM in Modifications

I have recently modified some of my blasters, the mods include AR and lock removal and I was wondering if it is a good idea to put felt pads on the plunger head in order to make the blaster a bit quieter and safer to dry fire. if any one has any info on this topic what so ever please reply. thank you.

yes it is somewhat common Self sticking craft foam is typical it does help plunger life and makes it a bit quieter... If you filled the plunger head with hot glue first some dead space would be removed too.

#342859 Has anyone figured out the best way to seal slits in Elite darts?

Posted by Lunas on 14 November 2014 - 04:14 AM in Darts and Barrels

I think rubber cement would be your best bet. I've used it to reattach heads with some success. Not particularly lightweight, but it's flexible and adheres to the foam to some degree.

As far as prevention, looser barrels will help stop powerful blasters from destroying darts. Depending on a billion other variables, this may reduce your muzzle velocity, but elite streamlines don't fly straight at high speeds anyways so your effective range won't be hurt too much. I don't recommend shoving straws in all of your darts because it takes time that I wouldn't want to spend on darts that I already paid 25c for. And I don't recommend homemade darts because I read the first post.

Actually it goes really fast once you get it down. Also you can make homemade darts with dart peg holes. And you suggest they put looser barrels on blasters when it sounded like they dont use modded blasters. If they used modded blasters they could remove the dart pegs.

#342795 Has anyone figured out the best way to seal slits in Elite darts?

Posted by Lunas on 10 November 2014 - 03:36 PM in Darts and Barrels

I am curious how you get nerf guns with dart pegs still in them that can blow out the darts like this are you guys pulling the ar and then tossing heavy springs in them and then to meet some odd rule you leave the dart pegs? I have the stage 1 and 2 OMW kit in my retaliator it does not blow out my darts like this my friend has a strong arm stock that has not done this and i have a jolt i modded that has not done this my rapid strike and stryfe obviously would not do this... honestly the damage looks more like it got pinched in a drum or mag and physically ripped. The straws in the bodys will still help with feeding too.

#342781 Has anyone figured out the best way to seal slits in Elite darts?

Posted by Lunas on 10 November 2014 - 12:18 AM in Darts and Barrels

I think I should have been more clear. I know the why and how of the situation, and I'm trying to filter out the answers that involve using stefans or straws.

The answer I was hoping for was to know what kind of glue I can use. An ideal answer would be some sort of cheap and light elastic glue that is malleable upon application, and dries to form a seal without being brittle. And is also lightweight. Can anyone think of such a material?

i told you the glue i used it is light and rubbery but does not stay adhered to the foam super well it feels like the stuff they used to put the tips on in the first place it would work. That said you need to take a preventative approach rather than repair after the fact. Nothing you can do will be as good as a fresh dart.

What i would probably do is pull all of the blown out darts and use foam backer rod to make new foam ends using the genuine tips. there is instructions for making the peg holes too. Or the one you pictured you could cut and glue the tip to the half that is left.

#342763 Has anyone figured out the best way to seal slits in Elite darts?

Posted by Lunas on 08 November 2014 - 08:56 PM in Darts and Barrels

you could put straws in them to reinforce the dart as a whole i did that to mine and they still work in ones with pegs. Though personally i rip the ar and peg out of every gun i have... I straw my darts using loctite go2glue it drys rubbery and flexable and clear i have found i can increase the weight a bit by putting a bit of extra glue in the tip of the straw and all issues with them are solved by cutting them 2mm shorter than the end of the dart and pushing it all the way down in. This works great in my stryfe and rapidstrike and they work fine out of my modded jolt and retaliator... I imagine the straw would do 2 things for you one increase the psi a dart can handle and two make the dart more rigid to keep from jamming by folding over...

The straws i used were 1$ from walmart for like 50-100 one straw does 3 darts...

#342580 Epoxy Question

Posted by Lunas on 26 October 2014 - 04:53 PM in Modifications

i didnt do anything to the seal yet how do u think i should do it? Ya i removed that grate thingy and a dart fits in it but the dart is kinda too skinny so if u fire it with the dart inside, the air goes like around the dart so it doesnt even go all the way out. I then tried to make the dart fatter by wrapping it with duct tape so then it fit perfectly in the center tube but when i fired it, it went like 10' and the accuracy is like whale shit. the missiles are better and i dont recommend using the darts.

and tiff, i added u

On the one i saw he wrapped the plunger head in teflon tape 4 times and then put the o-ring on and greased it. For the missile barrel i would not alter the darts but instead glue a insert of nested brass or cpvc into the abs tube to make it fit the dart better as long as you don't increase the size outward the missile should fire still.

#342570 Rapidstrike Revving Problem

Posted by Lunas on 25 October 2014 - 06:24 PM in General Nerf

I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.

look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.

#342569 Epoxy Question

Posted by Lunas on 25 October 2014 - 06:13 PM in Modifications

No I didn't make any cuts to the demolisher. I made a strayven b4 and the cuts r pretty similar. I was originally gunna make a rayven rapidstrike rough cut and jolt integration but none if the places I went to had rapidstrikes so we just got demolishers. My friend also made a centurion demolisher. PM me if u need any help I guess

Did you improve the seal on the demolisher missile plunger? Also i have been meaning to ask this of a demoilisher owner is the center tube of the missile if you cut off the grate on the front would a elite fit snug down that to the point you could use it as a single direct fire spot for if you did not have a missile to reload? IF yes have you done so and how well do they fire from it?

#342525 ...

Posted by Lunas on 21 October 2014 - 08:00 PM in Off Topic

i donno i think i would have gone the high road and put zombie instead of ebola. Ebola is something very real right now and yes it is hard to actually catch it you need to have contact with infected feces or blood.

#342406 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 08:29 PM in Modifications

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.

also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.

With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo

#342394 Best Batteries with Low Prices

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 06:56 AM in Modifications

Ebay is a bad source a lot of fake batteries

Stock motors run fine on IMR cells but these are expensive
Nitecore i2 charger
Nitecore d2 charger with car adaptor and battery storage box
Nitecore i4 4 slot charger
d4 4 slot (i have this)

these should fit in a rapidstrike tray in place of the c-cells with the center divider gone
18650 30A discharge
10A imr efest 18650

14500 10A efest

for lipo hobby king has excellent prices and sells through amazon...

#342393 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 05:05 AM in Modifications

Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.

the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.

the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.

A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.

Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...

Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can

the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.

#342392 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 14 October 2014 - 04:32 AM in Modifications

Whoa. I just watched a video of a trustfire explosion and it was insane! Apparently those things can explode even when not in use and are just being stored! I am never buying those things in my life. I am going to have to stick to lipo's forever.

Just be sure to not get the soft package ones and treat them with respect... Sure they are safer but if they get punctured or you exceed the current draw they can violently vent or puff... Nothing good ever spits out of a battery when they vent... I have also read about someone who charged their *fire battery properly they put it in a drawer for use later nothing shorting it or anything he came into his shop after hearing a pop and it was the battery having vented...

Most safe
Li-ion protected
Li-ion quality cellsLi-ion
Cheap Chinese Li-ion *FIRE brandsBoom and Fake
Less safe

In mods with STOCK wiring and motors a good set of IMR or LiMn batteries is fine the stock motors wont draw over 10A.
In mods with Alternate high voltage motors LiPo, LiFe or NiMH packs. You can use these with stock motors but thermal fuses must in most cases be removed.
In mods with alternate low voltage motors A 1s LiPo LiFe or NiMH or AA NiMH are the choice you need to keep in mind most of these motors are 3v they can be over volted a bit to 4.5 or maybe 6v at most...

also any battery that gets abused can explode including alkaline...

#342362 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2014 - 04:52 PM in Modifications

I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.

Actually in my research I found the current lithium primary could provide was vastly inferior. While better than both alkaline and NiMH a lithium primary is still worse than a li-ion 14500 cell. Energizer's data sheet claims 3A continuous with 5A pulse 2 seconds at 5A 8 seconds off. A quality cell not *fire brand should do at least 3A continuous with 6th bursts and be rechargeable.

However the capacity of a lithium primary is greater than a li-ion (trustfire) but lithium primary are a one and done situation. And at 10 dollars per 4 pack you might as well invest in a lipo pack or imr rechargeables. (Capacity of energizer lithium tests out at 2480 mAh @ 3A)

Li-ion- generally quality cells can do 3A- 5A continuous
Li-mn/imr do about 10A continuous.
Lipo packs do 10 - 100A continuous dependant on features of the pack c rating * capacity =amperage

#342355 Stryfe Battery Question

Posted by Lunas on 09 October 2014 - 09:57 PM in Modifications

I have recently bought IMR Batteries and have only put about 30 rounds through my Stryfe before the Thermistor shut down my blaster. I will rewire my Stryfe over the weekend, but I was wondering: Is it safe to run a Stryfe on four IMRs for long term usage? I'm using the stock motors. Thanks!

I would not there is a rather steep curve upward on noise from these motors. I would run on 2 or 3 but personally i run 2 and keep 2 charged for when the first 2 are exhausted.

If you need a battery blank i made my own using a sheet of paper and a solid core wire down the center with a coil on either end. I simply rolled a piece of paper around a wire until it was as thick as a AA then put glue on either end then stripped the wire ends and coiled them to form terminals... i have 2 one that is 2 AA end to end long one that is a single AA long removes and sits just as a battery would.

#342354 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 09 October 2014 - 09:49 PM in Modifications

I was going to put in some mabuchi fk180sh's in the gun then overvolt it but now I am wondering not sure. Would this outperform a solarbotics stryfe if it were in a demolisher? : http://www.banggood....kXdZhoC_pvw_wcB

the demolisher is more or less a stryfe with a built in missile launcher i have seen mod videos on it and the seal in the missile launcher sucks i also wonder that if one were to remove the grate on the launcher tube if a elite dart would fit down it to give a single shot air launch.

With the 180s you will need to cut holes in the shell to allow the back sides of the motors to stick out. If you don't want to do this you could get some 130 can race motors the hyper dash 2 but you would be going to 4.2v for them or you could get a pair of brushless motors and a controller you will need to put an on off switch in then.

Honestly the stock stryfe motors do good with a proper power source they could be better they could be alot worse...

#342349 Li-Ion or LiPo?

Posted by Lunas on 09 October 2014 - 05:45 PM in Modifications

Alright. I kind of wanted to use the li-ion because i was going to have a setup where when you have the gun normal, 9v. when you attach the overvolt stock (a demolisher stock with another 9v), it makes it 18v.

That's not hard to do with lipo either but the reason people can go to 18v on 9v batteries is the low current they can provide. The li-ion ones you found should be better than 9v alkaline or 9v NiMH pp3 packages but still not as good as IMR batteries. You will burn a motor on a lipo @ 18v vs running 2 9v in series. You will probably find running at 7.4 or 11.1v will out perform 18v with 9v. This gun has stryfe motors and they will burn over 14v on a lipo they hit good ranges with a 7.4-11.1v most people find stryfes hitting 100+fps on 7.4 lipos and above 12 they melt darts...